I have the exact same setup and was getting frustrated at the engine kick at top speed. Great suggestion about building up momentum. Will give it a try next when I can get to the water. Thanks.
Good video mate. I have just bought mine and have had the same issues as you had so this helped me out & going for another test run this afternoon. I also keep my battery in a cooler bag as I can't find a waterproof box the right size.
Thank you. Good presentation. I just installed my AST 24 on my Hobbie Outback 12 for fishing. I found the mount flimsy and am concerned the torgue might break the connections. i will go slow to start after seeing your startup. I ited a line to the motor in case it down break loose so it don't lose it. I am looking for a way to secure it in one position securely and with use my rudder to steer.
Just mounted a T24 on a Pryml Titan and that was very fiddly. There is no easy internal access on that kayak and I had to get the nuts on via the rod holder hole. Not the easiest job I have ever done but got there in the end. Haven't got ours wet yet but looking forward to see how well it goes. Good tip about using the rudder, save me having to learn :) The mount is now a bit different as they have done away with the stainless steel shaft and the top plate is angled. Might help with engine stability a bit - yet to see though.
Looks good although you appear to have the motor set a little high, the propeller is cavitation. This is robbing you of speed and probably steering response.
Thanks for the tip. Been trying it at different levels. The angle the propeller ends up at when jolted forward is my main concern and causing the most issues with speed and handling. Next time I’m out I will angle it back so when it jolts forward it will hopefully level out
K.I.S.S Kayak Fishing you will probably find it won't jolt as much with the prop a little deeper. It's very important to have the prop sitting exactly at a right angle to the hull for maximum efficiency. If anything, have the motor tilted slightly forward as this will lift the bow slightly. You will probably find steering is a lot more effective if you lock the motor straight ahead and either use the rudder or a paddle to steer. Dipping the paddle in one side or the other will turn the boat very quickly. Also, if you extend the wires that go to the battery and put an on/off switch on the power wire, you can mount that somewhere convenient in front of you to turn the motor off and on (you just leave the motor on all the time). It's a lot easier and safer than reaching over your shoulder to turn the motor on all the time :)
Thinking of buying one - seems they really need to redesign a better clamping system to prevent that motor movement or some sort of tape that doesn't allow the mount to turn so easily in the clamps . Is there any fitted tool supplied to tighten those clamps or is it just down to fingers or pliers ? Many thanks for the practical video on how it works.
Did your base plate with the four screws, did the long bolt that goes down the center, did it come with a nut? My was just a screw in bolt. Great video.
The weakest part of this mount is the where the plastic mount connects to the metal tube. The 2 Phillips head screws screw into the plastic and this is all that is holding back the torque of the motor as the thrust relies to twist the joint. The screws work loose after a very short time and gets worse very quickly. I added 4 more screws and still couldn’t get it a solid joint as the original screws had made the hole in the lattice too large. I purchased a new mount and added 4 screws at the start but it still wasn’t good and with the issue with the thumb screws not being able to tighten enough I gave up and made a different mount. My suggestion, these don’t work well at all - don’t buy.
Great video which shows the problems with this motor mount. I have installed one on my Hobie Outfitter and am very disappointed with the product. Firstly as mentioned in the video when power is turned on the "jack bar" tends to rotate resulting in the motor throwing itself out of the water. This is very dangerous as prop blades are sharp. Secondly, no matter how tight you do up the bolts the mount moves around and does not stay in the correct position. After three outings with this mount I have decided it is more trouble than it is worth so will not use it again. However, now I have holes in the Kayak from the mount installation. I believe Jarvis Walker should withdraw this product until it can be improved. Recommend you don't buy it. On the plus side the trolling motor does work well .
1. the motor is too high. 2. I am glad that I got the Transom mount, with a few diy modifications it should be a much stronger mount... That mount kinda looks bad. 3. Great Video keep it up, though you should look in to a LiPo or lithium Ion batteries. I cant wait for my motor to arrive and do some testing with some old 4s 10c 5200Mah lipo's I have sitting on my desk. -They should provide a bit more kick getting up to speed with the higher voltage -Due to being a much more energy dense and modern battery tech, 20ah will weigh roughly 1.6kg -Better battery life as they do not suffer from energy loss when the batteries warm up, supposedly with the lead acid batteries it it was a 35ah under heavy use you may only get 21ah out of your 15kg batteries -Also charge times I would be able to charge them between 15 - 20 minutes maximum where as a lead acid could take over 12hrs requiring to be charged 0.1C (3.5a)
Brendan_636 lips too expensive unfortunately and I heard a bit volatile. The mount is not too bad and suits my purposes. The tip about the motor being too high has been taken on board and rectified.
I'm running 3 x 10c 3s5.2ah (5200Mah) lipo's in serial so 15.6 amp hours with out any issues, and the amp draw is about 7 on low and 14 on high, given your not using it all the time that's 1 - 2 hrs constant or more on the water and if you put a PWM on it you get longer plus more controlled speed. So long as you have a way to get that you don't drop them under the 3.2 volt mark (which we all know from droning etc) then your golden.. a 20$ volt meter from SCA or a multimeter or a lipo checker etc works wonders here.
Top video mate, good to see this in action. Just wondering, are you running the Jarvis Walker circuit breaker? Or just running the cables straight to the battery?
Great Video, thank you. Ive the same motor/kayak combo (not yet installed), its good to know what to look out for. Ive just ordered the parts for the PWM controller DIY, great to have the heads up about the kick back if its at full power straight up. I am using a 20ah LiFePo4 battery.
Anthony Matthews glad I could help. Made the video because I couldn’t find how they would go side mounted on the pa12. If you use this bracket to mount it, make sure the nuts are done up when transporting because mine vibrated out on my first trip travelling to the water.
A great invention , big thumbs up to Javis walker, although I have made some modifications, with this mount, the centre main bolt for the mount has been coming loose sometimes,which makes the motor flop around all over the place, after a while of trolling , I have tightened the hell out of it ,even put a long extension on the alan key to get it extremely tight only to have it fail , even used loc tight ,still with no success, The four hand tightened bolts that keep it in place once set up really need to be extra tight as you said mate, I have beefed up the whole mount now , after setting it up, l drilled and tapped (threaded) 4mm stainless screws in key areas to stop any rotation of the mount, now its bullet proof l will make a video soon. Over all pretty happy, awesome power from this little unit, I might mount a big rudder on the shaft to increase turning rate, Although buy yak seems to turn pretty good in good conditions, great video mate
gleno2008 I saw somebody add a piece of plastic to the shaft to help with steering. The rudder on the pa12 works fine with it. I hear what you’re saying about the centre bolt. It’s come loose a couple of times. I carry an Allen key with me all the time now.
gleno2008 did you make a video of how you beefed upon the mount? I'm very interned. I want to buy this item but some reviews are saying the screws come loose alot
Anything Adrenaline the centre Allen key skrew is the issue. If you want you could areldite it and it won’t affect anything as long as you get it in the right position 1st time
K.I.S.S Kayak Fishing how did you access to put the nuts on though once you drilled the four holes I have a old town top water 106 but I don’t have a way to access to put the nuts on the bottom without drilling a hole to get my hand in to put taps on.
The hobie pa12 has 2 access points through the storage hatches to tighten the nuts. You could possibly try self tapping screws but I don't know if they will work for sure.
Good Vid mate, I had a mate with the mirage Motor setup had to help him do an on water swap-out Motor for Mirage drive when his battery died not fun, I think I like the Mount idea better, and thinking a 24lb will fly on my Revo 13
I've seen a nice and cheap mod you might want to try - you use one of those small polythene chopping boards cut down slightly on an angle and clamped onto the shaft above the prop using electrical cable clamps - there are videos here on UA-cam or Amazon sell a proper kit for about $ 60 bucks AUS if you can't be bothered making one. I reckon it would make a huge difference to the steering because all you've got is a tiny fin on the bottom of the watersnake that doesn't add any real steering. Cheers.
Steering wont work as well on kayaks with rudders because the motor is fighting the kayak rudder. I would imagine that the steering is more effective if the kayak does not have a rudder.
It seems to me to be asking to have no base, drop the vertical tube dropped down the rod holder just adjacent to where you have it mounted. This way you have no drilling, no holes in the kayak and it should be easy to remove.
Timothy Smith the bracket was newly released when I reviewed it. There were a lot of different mounting diy options at the time but I liked the thought of this.
James Quake if you have the money, get a lipo. Really expensive but a lot lighter and smaller. I think they may be a little more volatile but heaps of yakker use them
(1)….cant you here the prop noise put it down 6inches that will stop the noise.....(2) …..you don't steer with the motor …..use your rudder and it will handle better
jai donnelly there is a short handle that sticks out of the control head and the longer one you can see about 15cm from the top. That is all it comes with handle wise.
Nice video. It's fun watching real people making this stuff work. Good job and thanks for sharing.
dalestephan thanks, I couldn’t find anything only when I was looking to buy it.
I have the exact same setup and was getting frustrated at the engine kick at top speed. Great suggestion about building up momentum. Will give it a try next when I can get to the water. Thanks.
Good video mate. I have just bought mine and have had the same issues as you had so this helped me out & going for another test run this afternoon. I also keep my battery in a cooler bag as I can't find a waterproof box the right size.
Glad I could help. Some of the comments have good ideas to help.
how long does the battery last and what is the mH? thanks
Thank you. Good presentation. I just installed my AST 24 on my Hobbie Outback 12 for fishing. I found the mount flimsy and am concerned the torgue might break the connections. i will go slow to start after seeing your startup. I ited a line to the motor in case it down break loose so it don't lose it. I am looking for a way to secure it in one position securely and with use my rudder to steer.
Hey mate, what’s the diameter of the motor mount with 4 screws? Can’t find any info online and wanna know if it will fit before I buy one. Thanks.
Just mounted a T24 on a Pryml Titan and that was very fiddly. There is no easy internal access on that kayak and I had to get the nuts on via the rod holder hole. Not the easiest job I have ever done but got there in the end. Haven't got ours wet yet but looking forward to see how well it goes. Good tip about using the rudder, save me having to learn :) The mount is now a bit different as they have done away with the stainless steel shaft and the top plate is angled. Might help with engine stability a bit - yet to see though.
Does this need a fuse set up like manual says
can you please tell me what battery your using and were the buy it k.i.s.s kyak fishing
Is there any way to lock the motor straight without holding the handle?
Looks good although you appear to have the motor set a little high, the propeller is cavitation. This is robbing you of speed and probably steering response.
Thanks for the tip. Been trying it at different levels. The angle the propeller ends up at when jolted forward is my main concern and causing the most issues with speed and handling. Next time I’m out I will angle it back so when it jolts forward it will hopefully level out
K.I.S.S Kayak Fishing you will probably find it won't jolt as much with the prop a little deeper. It's very important to have the prop sitting exactly at a right angle to the hull for maximum efficiency. If anything, have the motor tilted slightly forward as this will lift the bow slightly. You will probably find steering is a lot more effective if you lock the motor straight ahead and either use the rudder or a paddle to steer. Dipping the paddle in one side or the other will turn the boat very quickly. Also, if you extend the wires that go to the battery and put an on/off switch on the power wire, you can mount that somewhere convenient in front of you to turn the motor off and on (you just leave the motor on all the time). It's a lot easier and safer than reaching over your shoulder to turn the motor on all the time :)
Darren Turner cheers mate, hopefully others read your comments as well to rectify the problem I had. Will do this next time out
spoodge6 no problem mate, like anything, your motor setup just requires a little fine tuning. Its worth the effort though. Good luck with it :)
@@officialWWM All useful and good points - thanks.
What kit do you recommend for the 50amp circuit breaker or fuse kit?
Thinking of buying one - seems they really need to redesign a better clamping system to prevent that motor movement or some sort of tape that doesn't allow the mount to turn so easily in the clamps . Is there any fitted tool supplied to tighten those clamps or is it just down to fingers or pliers ? Many thanks for the practical video on how it works.
Reg Watson no tools provided. If you don’t use your rear rod holders there are some good diy mods online.
@@spoodge6 Thanks I'll take a look.
I just hooked the bungee cord from rear tank well around the motor shaft which helps hold it in place when motor is turned on.
The best vid I've seen on it! So it doesn't work well without a rudder? Is it manageable?
I always used my rudder to steer and kept the motor straight. It didn’t work well just using motor to steer.
Did your base plate with the four screws, did the long bolt that goes down the center, did it come with a nut? My was just a screw in bolt. Great video.
Tim Williford just a screw in bolt. That tightens the tension so it doesn’t swivel.
You need to lower the motor a little bit more to stop the prop cavitating
The weakest part of this mount is the where the plastic mount connects to the metal tube. The 2 Phillips head screws screw into the plastic and this is all that is holding back the torque of the motor as the thrust relies to twist the joint. The screws work loose after a very short time and gets worse very quickly. I added 4 more screws and still couldn’t get it a solid joint as the original screws had made the hole in the lattice too large. I purchased a new mount and added 4 screws at the start but it still wasn’t good and with the issue with the thumb screws not being able to tighten enough I gave up and made a different mount.
My suggestion, these don’t work well at all - don’t buy.
Great video which shows the problems with this motor mount. I have installed one on my Hobie Outfitter and am very disappointed with the product. Firstly as mentioned in the video when power is turned on the "jack bar" tends to rotate resulting in the motor throwing itself out of the water. This is very dangerous as prop blades are sharp. Secondly, no matter how tight you do up the bolts the mount moves around and does not stay in the correct position. After three outings with this mount I have decided it is more trouble than it is worth so will not use it again. However, now I have holes in the Kayak from the mount installation. I believe Jarvis Walker should withdraw this product until it can be improved. Recommend you don't buy it.
On the plus side the trolling motor does work well .
Mal Drury I used an elastic strap to hold the handle down and works pretty well on my PA12.
1. the motor is too high.
2. I am glad that I got the Transom mount, with a few diy modifications it should be a much stronger mount... That mount kinda looks bad.
3. Great Video keep it up, though you should look in to a LiPo or lithium Ion batteries.
I cant wait for my motor to arrive and do some testing with some old 4s 10c 5200Mah lipo's I have sitting on my desk.
-They should provide a bit more kick getting up to speed with the higher voltage
-Due to being a much more energy dense and modern battery tech, 20ah will weigh roughly 1.6kg
-Better battery life as they do not suffer from energy loss when the batteries warm up, supposedly with the lead acid batteries it it was a 35ah under heavy use you may only get 21ah out of your 15kg batteries
-Also charge times I would be able to charge them between 15 - 20 minutes maximum where as a lead acid could take over 12hrs requiring to be charged 0.1C (3.5a)
Brendan_636 lips too expensive unfortunately and I heard a bit volatile. The mount is not too bad and suits my purposes. The tip about the motor being too high has been taken on board and rectified.
I'm running 3 x 10c 3s5.2ah (5200Mah) lipo's in serial so 15.6 amp hours with out any issues, and the amp draw is about 7 on low and 14 on high, given your not using it all the time that's 1 - 2 hrs constant or more on the water and if you put a PWM on it you get longer plus more controlled speed. So long as you have a way to get that you don't drop them under the 3.2 volt mark (which we all know from droning etc) then your golden.. a 20$ volt meter from SCA or a multimeter or a lipo checker etc works wonders here.
Top video mate, good to see this in action. Just wondering, are you running the Jarvis Walker circuit breaker? Or just running the cables straight to the battery?
vin18m straight to the battery via a fuse
Great Video, thank you. Ive the same motor/kayak combo (not yet installed), its good to know what to look out for. Ive just ordered the parts for the PWM controller DIY, great to have the heads up about the kick back if its at full power straight up. I am using a 20ah LiFePo4 battery.
Anthony Matthews glad I could help. Made the video because I couldn’t find how they would go side mounted on the pa12. If you use this bracket to mount it, make sure the nuts are done up when transporting because mine vibrated out on my first trip travelling to the water.
A great invention , big thumbs up to Javis walker, although I have made some modifications, with this mount, the centre main bolt for the mount has been coming loose sometimes,which makes the motor flop around all over the place, after a while of trolling , I have tightened the hell out of it ,even put a long extension on the alan key to get it extremely tight only to have it fail , even used loc tight ,still with no success, The four hand tightened bolts that keep it in place once set up really need to be extra tight as you said mate, I have beefed up the whole mount now , after setting it up, l drilled and tapped (threaded) 4mm stainless screws in key areas to stop any rotation of the mount, now its bullet proof l will make a video soon.
Over all pretty happy, awesome power from this little unit, I might mount a big rudder on the shaft to increase turning rate, Although buy yak seems to turn pretty good in good conditions, great video mate
gleno2008 I saw somebody add a piece of plastic to the shaft to help with steering. The rudder on the pa12 works fine with it. I hear what you’re saying about the centre bolt. It’s come loose a couple of times. I carry an Allen key with me all the time now.
gleno2008 did you make a video of how you beefed upon the mount? I'm very interned. I want to buy this item but some reviews are saying the screws come loose alot
Anything Adrenaline the centre Allen key skrew is the issue. If you want you could areldite it and it won’t affect anything as long as you get it in the right position 1st time
How did you get the bottom bracket and nuts without drilling a hole in kayak?
You have to drill 4 holes to attach the bracket.
K.I.S.S Kayak Fishing how did you access to put the nuts on though once you drilled the four holes I have a old town top water 106 but I don’t have a way to access to put the nuts on the bottom without drilling a hole to get my hand in to put taps on.
The hobie pa12 has 2 access points through the storage hatches to tighten the nuts. You could possibly try self tapping screws but I don't know if they will work for sure.
Nice video. I was wondering if you can use the mount with a different trolling motor, like the Minn Kota 30lb trust?
terrence vinson it struggles with the power of the 24 so I don’t think it would work
I was just going to ask the same I have a minkota 50😢
Great Vid! Do you use a circuit breaker? Cheers
No
Good Vid mate, I had a mate with the mirage Motor setup had to help him do an on water swap-out Motor for Mirage drive when his battery died not fun, I think I like the Mount idea better, and thinking a 24lb will fly on my Revo 13
Kwikflikz Yak ADVENTURES cheers, I would definitely look at some of the other comments on this video. Some good ideas to help with the recoil
I've seen a nice and cheap mod you might want to try - you use one of those small polythene chopping boards cut down slightly on an angle and clamped onto the shaft above the prop using electrical cable clamps - there are videos here on UA-cam or Amazon sell a proper kit for about $ 60 bucks AUS if you can't be bothered making one. I reckon it would make a huge difference to the steering because all you've got is a tiny fin on the bottom of the watersnake that doesn't add any real steering. Cheers.
Thanks for trying to help. I don’t have this anymore.
does the motor come with the longer handle
jai donnelly everything with the motor came in the kit
Steering wont work as well on kayaks with rudders because the motor is fighting the kayak rudder. I would imagine that the steering is more effective if the kayak does not have a rudder.
Thank you great value video.
You need to get the prop deeper, I can hear so much cavitation
It seems to me to be asking to have no base, drop the vertical tube dropped down the rod holder just adjacent to where you have it mounted. This way you have no drilling, no holes in the kayak and it should be easy to remove.
Timothy Smith the bracket was newly released when I reviewed it. There were a lot of different mounting diy options at the time but I liked the thought of this.
TQ ,Great Video keep it up
What clamp are you talking
It’s a kayak clamp that comes in a pack with the t24. You can buy the t24 with the clamp or there is a separate pack that includes the clamp.
how many miles you can go with full charge?
pk9394racing have never tried so can’t tell sorry
Depends on the battery used
What battery are you using ........... mate. ??..
James Quake its a fusion 50amp
Oh thanks mate , where did you get it from , I just recently bought the same motor and am looking for a good battery for it!? .......
James Quake if you have the money, get a lipo. Really expensive but a lot lighter and smaller. I think they may be a little more volatile but heaps of yakker use them
spoodge6 ok thanks mate !!
you have the motor set much to high, the propeller is cavitation ,,,,,,so that means the prop is sucking air ,,,,,
Your bottom mount is around the wrong way
(1)….cant you here the prop noise put it down 6inches that will stop the noise.....(2) …..you don't steer with the motor …..use your rudder and it will handle better
peter nohlmans thanks, a few people mentioned that
yep ok
Gets the rolls Royce of kayaks with pedals already for the same price as my house and then spend even more to get a motor...
There’s always secondhand bargains and they’re worth it.
My yak is PA 12, already have Live scope. Tourneys are not all motor approved. A small $169 motor as an assist is worth the $300 cost.
Even if you instructed the little guy,, it was still irresponsible to have that child's hands 👐🏼so close to the propeller 😳
Armando Fernandez no idea what you are talking about. I made this by myself.
You have the motor too shallow thats part of your problem.
Michael SANCHEZ yeah mate. It still has issues when deeper.
does the motor come with the longer handle
jai donnelly there is a short handle that sticks out of the control head and the longer one you can see about 15cm from the top. That is all it comes with handle wise.
@@k.i.s.skayakfishing1946 cheers mate thinking of getting it sick of paddleing
I have the same setup, regularly to 10-15km round trips with plenty left in the 38ah battery. From 13.4v to 12.5v on last trip