Building a Delta Loop Antenna For The 30m Band, Part 1.
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- Опубліковано 14 вер 2019
- Since my 6m Delta Loop seems to work pretty well I decided to build one for the 30m band to be used with my Spiderbeam 12m mast. Unfortunately I cut it too short. The balun works well. I need to try a quarter wave of 75 Ohm coax instead, just for testing... Note that fed a one lower corner polarisation is vertical. Stay tuned for part two...
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Yuo have given me an excellent experience to see what is involved with 30 meters
Very nice build, explanation, and demonstration -- Thank you!
Thanks for sharing your successes and failures. Love the view there.
Very nice Gil! Looking forward to part 2 with the CW translation!
Hi Gil. Love your videos. Please don't stop. Ham is all about experimenting
which means you learn from mistakes and move on. Keep up the good work.
Thanks. No worries, I still have so much to do and learn!
CW is my favorite mode. No problem copying your QSO's. Love your videos.
Thanks! Morse rocks!
wow. good one.
Thank you for the video Gil. As my dad used to say, measure twice, cut once!
I did know better, LOL.
In Russian it’s
Measure seven times, cut once! ))
530 mi. That was a great contact Gil. Your the best brother. 👍😀
Thanks. Have a great weekend.
I'm looking forward to part 2. I particularly like the idea of using a length of 75 ohm coax for impedance matching, as you need a feed line so it might as well do double duty as a free impedance matching network. That's an elegant design.
I like that you are 3D printing prototype parts. 3D printed parts are weak between layers. Your part has a natural symmetry in the orientation you printed, but it would be much stronger in your application if rotated 90 degrees for printing, perhaps with a hexagonal cross section so there is a flat surface on the bottom. In that orientation, the shearing forces will be across the plastic filaments and not between the layers.
That's how I see it... I'm very new to 3D printing...
@@RadioPrepper - 3D printing is a great tool for rapid prototyping. Once we can efficiently use the 3D CAD and slicer, we can make almost any shape we can imagine. That's an incredible tool to improve our abilities to build things. There are inherent limitations with fused deposition, and layer bonding strength is one of the biggest problems when printing structural parts. Often, reorienting the part when slicing will greatly improve the part. An even stronger part can often be made by considering the layer strength when in CAD, where you may decide on a different orientation, perhaps with some added features to improve the strength in a critical direction to avoid a failure. Thinking in advance of the layer strength problem allows the part to be designed to mitigate that failure mode. Another trick is to 3D print the complex geometry you need and add a composite wrap to prevent layer separation. Imagine if your sleeve was a bobbin and you wrapped a strip of epoxy and fiberglass for three or four layers around the outside. It doesn't even need to be fiberglass. Five minute epoxy impregnated cotton cloth, or cotton polyester blend, would work.
It might be helpful to imagine your part make from a homogeneous material... injection molded plastic for example. Now imagine it in your application. Imagine how it's most likely to break. In your tubular adapter, it's most likely to break by snapping in two horizontally, at the end of the mast where the shear force is highest, and that's the direction the layers are oriented so it would be easiest to break in that direction. It would be much worse if the part was a connector between two masts. Your part is probably plenty strong enough to support the loads conveyed by the wire antenna. I'm mostly bringing this up in the hope of helping you to design stronger and better 3D printed parts in future projects. There was certainly nothing wrong with what you did. It seemed to work great!
Best of luck on your revised delta loop! As always, thank you for sharing this information that both educates and inspires.
Nice video 📹, I also love the 30m band with cw, best 73's de GM0KET 😎 🎙️ 📻 📶
Thank You!
I used to run, exclusively, the delta with the 75 ohm matching system. I had two different antennas, one a full wave for 80, one a full wave for 20. , vertical. Both fed with 50 ohm coax, but with a 1/4 wave open matching 75 ohm cable in series just before the antenna feed point. They both were amazing antennas. The 20 would bomb into Ontario from California. The 80 worked all over . One thing I might say is, using an antenna analyzer, cut the coax (75) a little longer and then cut it say 3 inches at a time till you find the 1/4 wave point. Do not go entirely by the velocity factor, as I've found that cables are not that accurate with velocity factors. An 85% might be 80 and so on. I now feed with open wire line, my 80m horizontal full wave,, 4/1 ballun to the open wire line, short run of 50 ohm to the rig. I have found that the higher the antenna is, the longer it needs to be by say 5 percent. That puts what math would say should be 265 to about 280 feet at 75 ft elevation. An amazing antenna, works on ALL bands very quick auto tuner performance very happy antenna all bands at that length and height.
Great info, thank you!
Wow tnx om I love cw
Best 73s
thanks for great vlogs, good way to tune antenna is to use a metal tent guy rope clamp, that way you can tweak it without cutting, anodised aluminium ones are very cheap :-)
Good tip thanks.
Always great when you go afield. Nice countryside and open and away from city QRN/QRM. Just a thought, with the top of the pole moving back and forth and not staying directly over the center of the bottom leg, would that change SWR and radiated pattern? Any wire in the air is better than no wire in the air. Keep the videos coming.
I very much doubt it would...
Super gille très fort dans la radio amateur et bien plus encore
Cordialement Frédéric
Merci!
Very informative , Thanks for sharing. 73 , AP2HA
Hi there Gil. calculating the length imperial for a full wave loop is 1005/ f MHz =feet. Not sure what that translates to in Metric. It does seem too long but can always be trimmed down. Like your 3D printer, very useful for amateur radio. thanks for a very good video. 73 & Gud DX de John - G0WXU.
I'll try that thanks!
love the drive to your operating spot, Gil. And how good are the goodies that Sotabeams supply! Awesome. I have the KX1 and love it. I'd have loved a K1 as well ….
Grant VK4JAZ
Never sell your KX1!
Nice work Gil! I was watching, or reading something about delta loop antennas ans almost made one this weekend. Do you have a sketch, or diagram on how you erected yours? Did you put the feedpoint on the bottom in the center, or in one of the corners? Just curious. 73 de K4SFC
Tip on top, fed at a corner.
That's BAHL-uhn, not buh-LOON. The latter is a rubber spheroid, typically filled with lighter than air gas, so it floats in the air.
Balun comes from "balanced to unbalanced": bal-un. You fill a balloon with helium. 🎈
That accidentally short wire is why I carry a supply of Solder Seal splice connectors in my portable kit, along with a cigar lighter to melt the solder, shrink the tubing, and melt the hot glue lining. More convenient than bringing my butane soldering iron when I'm just going to use marine grade glue-lined heat shrink anyway.
Duly noted thanks!
Peter from TRX Bench also gently got lectured a few years ago for using the same pronunciation! But in his defence, the German plural of balun DOES sound very much like "balloon-en". IMHO "balloon" is probably preferable to saying "bay-lon" in the common US way, which again doesn't recognise the word's origin.
@@hectorpascal I can perfectly understand where the "bah-LOON" pronunciation comes from. It's not a big stretch if someone is unfamiliar with the word. The problem is that it's not truly a word, with a root word that shifts to the current meaning. It's a portmanteau, "bal" from "balanced" and "un" from "unbalanced". Portmanteaux don't necessarily follow ANY conventions for structure, derivation, or phonics -- they're entirely driven by convention.
Worse, the BRITISH pronunciation is more like "bell-UHN". Why, I have no idea. They don't pronounce "balanced" or "unbalanced" oddly.
www.definitions.net/pronounce/balanced
www.definitions.net/pronounce/unbalanced
www.definitions.net/pronounce/balun
The German pronunciation of "luftballon" doesn't even sound with a long "oon", it's more of an "uhn", or "euhn".
It's very odd. But I agree whole-heartedly that it shouldn't EVER be "BAY-lun". Nor "BAW-lun".
@@RadioPrepper We all know what you meant, and seeing as you are fluent in more then 1 language, that makes your vocabulary far superior to mine. I knew someone would have to correct you. I have a 20 meter delta loop here at the house in the air I made. Mine has a 4 to 1 balun. Love the videos
Gil, since you are not backpacking, a better mast might be one from Max-Gain Systems like the 32 feet Standard Duty Fiberglass Push-up Mast MK-6-STD. That's 10.36 meters and 5.35 kilograms. There are 6 fiberglass tubes and when folded it's 2.2 meters long. There would be no flexing at the top even if you used 12 gauge wire. KB8AMZ
Sometimes I do ;-)
You make solid videos and have an excellent teaching style! Do you sell stickers or t-shirts?
Found it 🧐 I would buy a T-shirt or stickers...
I have mugs! See radiopreppers.com :-)
Too short? Who has never happened to this? ;-)
Thanks for the video, I'm looking forward to part 2.
73
That's what my girlfriend says...
I'd love to see a comparison with HWEF. Have you ever considered using a kite? Looks like you'd have enough wind there!
I have and might do it...
Where are the wire winders from, or did you make them?
My buddy Stan did. Link coming soon. Stay tuned!
Radio Prepper one of each please when available. 73 Kf7zvl
Gil, What type of wire did you use and where can I get it?
TNX es 73
Ebay, regular wire. I do like copper-clad steel from thwireman.com though.
thewireman.com
Since you said that the loop is 120 Ohm and the coax is 75 Ohm, why not use a 2:1 balun? Good luck Gil.
That would probably work fine too...
Personally I would make it a 20m loop and try again on an 30m loop.
A 20 m loop would be more manageable!
its 486/freq x 12 the 12 being how to get feet
No, it's 1005/f in feet.
@@RadioPrepper that 1005 is it to find quart wave or full wave
Nice - I was looking at the 4nec models of delta loops and built one for 20m - the modelling software shows they have considerable gain in one direction, especially the model with a reflector:
postimg.cc/JDWrvn0t
I tried to build a two element delta loop based on that model but the first iteration's wire was cheap and, since it was winter in Canada, the wire froze and broke. Need to try and rebuild it in summer.
Something in this video looks familiar... :D
Ah yes, sure does! Used it as a winder...
@@RadioPrepper It's among other things, done for that purpose too!
You know that your BNC/banana adapter fits in the two holes opposite to the BNC hole, right? ;)