This helped a ton thank you. Any advice if the forks are ever so slightly not catching going up? If i give it some help the forks catch properly byt have to be behind the seats. Any advice there?
This is a fantastic video! I am trying to make my roof a manual - already removed the rams but I am not sure what bolts to remove and change. I saw the video on YT that walks you through it, but that nut he is pointing to doesn't make sense to me. Has he removed something already? Help! Is there any way you can do a follow up video on the conversion? I haven't had any luck and better visually than with written instructions. Have subscribed to the channel, thanks!
I have owned many RR CONVERTIBLES, and never had one problem going up or down. They were hydraulic, but no problems, and worked so easily, you could still open or close manually. Amazing that Ferrari, even with such a small and much lighter top, still can’t make reliable. They should have left like the Daytona.
awesome video man, in my ferrari f1 spider the roof only opens halfway, it reaches behind the seats but doesn't go down. I took the car to Ferrari, I live in Italy, and they told me that the problem is in a sensor under the seat. Can you tell me something about this sensor? the code they gave me in ferrari is 64978300. it should be a potentiometer that regulates the seat distance.
My roof is sticking on one side and won't move further as I try to put it back again ( F355 spider 98 manual). Any tips what to check please - it's making a terrible noise
Excellent stuff. Just a few more tips: It's probably best to pull down the visors before unlatching the roof (to prevent leather damage) 14:46 The "3rd sensor" re-enables manual electric window control when the roof is fully down (EDIT: I don't believe that sensor triggers the movement of the seats. It doesn't have an input into the Roof ECU. It's more likely the switches in the primary rams control the seats. The reason your secondary hydraulic rams are not working may be due to a faulty solenoid (see Workshop Manual "F1" solenoid) or the internal switches (S2/S4) in the primary actuators are faulty. 43:26 I have a problem with the cable catching the rear of the window frame. I haven't been able to figure out what's wrong.
Excellent info thanks very much for the extra bits, i've pinned your comment so everyone else viewing the video needing 355 roof help can also see this.
@@Ratarossa I don't know if you noticed, but I made an amendment to my above comment. The 3rd sensor/microswitch at 14:47 is known as "Sx" in the Workshop Manual. This _only_ has an input into the Window ECU. Therefore, it cannot control the seats. Seat repositioning is done by the microswitches inside the primary hydraulic rams (This is mentioned in the Worshop Manual) It's interesting to note that the roof controller (ECU) can be completely removed from the car and the windows will still go down when you crack open the roof. As soon as the windows go down a few inches, manual window control is inhibited until the Sx ("third sensor") switch is activated _or_ the roof is relatched. I've been working on a revised (more understandable) wiring diagram, but haven't yet found the wiring path from the ignition lock to the console switches and ECU. Ignition lock power comes in on a green-white wire. Speculation: Power may come from the AC System fuse (which provides power to numerous systems on the car using green-white wires).
Thanks for this great video. I bought the new elastics according to the measures you gave (25cm x 3cm), but it seems that the original size is 30cm x 2.5cm. This said, with 30cm the elastic does not really perform its job, so I would rather go for 25cm x 2.5cm...
This helped a ton thank you. Any advice if the forks are ever so slightly not catching going up? If i give it some help the forks catch properly byt have to be behind the seats. Any advice there?
Thanks for sharing your DIY tips!
This is a fantastic video! I am trying to make my roof a manual - already removed the rams but I am not sure what bolts to remove and change. I saw the video on YT that walks you through it, but that nut he is pointing to doesn't make sense to me. Has he removed something already? Help! Is there any way you can do a follow up video on the conversion? I haven't had any luck and better visually than with written instructions. Have subscribed to the channel, thanks!
Can you upgrade the oil cylinders to electronics actuators???
I have owned many RR CONVERTIBLES, and never had one problem going up or down. They were hydraulic, but no problems, and worked so easily, you could still open or close manually. Amazing that Ferrari, even with such a small and much lighter top, still can’t make reliable. They should have left like the Daytona.
Mine opens at speeds (100kmh) what could be??
Less intro - more Ferrari!
That's a complicated mechanism I'm sure the Italians must of got some help from Germany. 😊
Thank you for that
Awesome
Mine started messing about today
Your video very helpful
I will need new straps
Thank you
Legend
Hi how are you. Very very helpful tips
Really appreciated
Would it be able to contact you someone
Please let me know
Thank you
Ali
Would the system not being bled lead to the forks not grabbing the pins? It is very very close to catching the pins and otherwise functions properly.
awesome video man, in my ferrari f1 spider the roof only opens halfway, it reaches behind the seats but doesn't go down. I took the car to Ferrari, I live in Italy, and they told me that the problem is in a sensor under the seat. Can you tell me something about this sensor? the code they gave me in ferrari is 64978300. it should be a potentiometer that regulates the seat distance.
Probably the worst Ferrari ever built. They burn so much because of massive problems.
My roof is stuck and won’t fully open
My roof is sticking on one side and won't move further as I try to put it back again ( F355 spider 98 manual). Any tips what to check please - it's making a terrible noise
Excellent stuff. Just a few more tips:
It's probably best to pull down the visors before unlatching the roof (to prevent leather damage)
14:46 The "3rd sensor" re-enables manual electric window control when the roof is fully down (EDIT: I don't believe that sensor triggers the movement of the seats. It doesn't have an input into the Roof ECU. It's more likely the switches in the primary rams control the seats.
The reason your secondary hydraulic rams are not working may be due to a faulty solenoid (see Workshop Manual "F1" solenoid) or the internal switches (S2/S4) in the primary actuators are faulty.
43:26 I have a problem with the cable catching the rear of the window frame. I haven't been able to figure out what's wrong.
Excellent info thanks very much for the extra bits, i've pinned your comment so everyone else viewing the video needing 355 roof help can also see this.
@@Ratarossa I don't know if you noticed, but I made an amendment to my above comment. The 3rd sensor/microswitch at 14:47 is known as "Sx" in the Workshop Manual. This _only_ has an input into the Window ECU. Therefore, it cannot control the seats. Seat repositioning is done by the microswitches inside the primary hydraulic rams (This is mentioned in the Worshop Manual)
It's interesting to note that the roof controller (ECU) can be completely removed from the car and the windows will still go down when you crack open the roof. As soon as the windows go down a few inches, manual window control is inhibited until the Sx ("third sensor") switch is activated _or_ the roof is relatched.
I've been working on a revised (more understandable) wiring diagram, but haven't yet found the wiring path from the ignition lock to the console switches and ECU. Ignition lock power comes in on a green-white wire. Speculation: Power may come from the AC System fuse (which provides power to numerous systems on the car using green-white wires).
Superb video, I used it to understand the issue with my roof, took 10 mins to align the fork/cam and all now good again. Many thanks Ratarossa 😎
Thanks for this great video. I bought the new elastics according to the measures you gave (25cm x 3cm), but it seems that the original size is 30cm x 2.5cm.
This said, with 30cm the elastic does not really perform its job, so I would rather go for 25cm x 2.5cm...
Can't find the write-up you reference in your video about filling/replacing the hydraulic fluid on your site. Can you link?
how do you completely drain the system of fluid?
Brilliant many thx and managed to coax the top down - several attempts and will try a hydraulic bleed 👍
wingmanshaks glad it helped you out 👍🏻
Very helpful thank you
What a horrible video!