Old guy here... took only "Engines 101" (1/2 a century ago) and learned: -1- when you open up holes in engines you ALWAYS plug them with rags. -2- always keep cylinder components in their respective order. -3- and more, of course, including the value of TEST LIGHTS!! A generation of learning remains! I.E., some things never change. Some things ALWAYS change requiring constant retraining... Thank GOD for Ivan, et al, and the inter-web.
Ivan, I'm always amazed at the levels of repairs that you will undertake in your home garage with the tools that you have! I've removed engines at my parents garage years ago, but we had overhead hoists to help with the process and the space to be able to lift rigs up off the ground a few feet and still be able to work on them, so seeing you do it in your garage is fantastic.
The leftist greenies like them since their beloved Volvos are no longer in their price range. I’ve been an Asian import technician for almost 33 years and Subaru has always lagged behind Toyota and Honda as far as trouble free reliability.
One attraction of Subaru is you get all wheel drive and decent reliability of you do your maintenance. The other attraction is that replacing more "mundane" parts like water pumps, alternators, ac compressors and other parts is much easier since the engine sits north-south. I have a 2020 WRX and in 46K miles it has had zero issues, with good tires goes through a foot of snow without a problem, and is fun to drive.
Yep, love my Subarus. Got a 03 WRX and believe it or not a 2014 Forester. 107K miles on the Forester and no issues. Maintenance is key of course. So many horror stories come from POs who abused their cars or never did any maintenance.
I've done so many heads on Subarus but never one with a chain, I'm wondering if some of the tips I've discovered on the belted one's will transfer over... I always use rubber bands for the head bolts, Pull them out of the head enough to clear the engine block then wrap the rubber band around all the bolts to keep them in place. So they don't interfere with the removal or installation of the head, catch on the frame rail or drop out. This also helps in locating the new head gasket for reinstallation. Another tip was to spend the extra 20-30min to remove both axles and loosen the engine mounts and just push the engine over to the opposite side you are working with...gives you TONS of room! The reason i pull the axles...i used to not do this until i popped the tulip out of the axle cup a few times 😆 so i just take the extra time to pull then to avoid damaging the shafts.
Totally admire how you approached this Ivan, determined as ever. However its far easier to remove the engine, i can get one out in around 45-50 minutes. The boxer is a pig to dismantle in situ. Great video as ever. 👍
Yeah, i love the primary wiring harness in the Subarus. once youve done it a couple of times, pulling the engine is like riding a bike. the 2.5i are easier though, being that its NA.
Biggest problem is going to be getting all those parts sitting in the right place on re-assembly and not tightening something down that is not quite aligned - I'm glad I'm just along for the ride!!!
I said you were going to come up with a way of doing it in-situ! you area legend Ivan. So far the difficult part has been everything except the actual head removal, and those difficult bits aren't all that difficult. If a DIY'er takes their time, they could do it too after watching your video 👍
And... they, too, would benefit from taking their own private videos to recall how it all goes together should there be a time lapse in between removal and reinstall. (USPS delivering parts, machine shop seating valves, etc.)
Another great video Ivan! After all your diligence and game plan of this repair.. I have definitely confirmed with myself that I will never buy a Subaru. A way over complicated 4 cylinder engine that makes absolutely no sense to own or service. You have an incredible abundance of knowledge and patience.. and thank you for sharing these great videos. Happy 4th of July!
Boxers are very difficult to work on. Conventional is much more practical and cheaper to maintain in the long run. Boxers are known for head gasket issues with Subaru. Maybe newer ones are better.
Just bought my second Subaru after putting 170K miles on my 17 Outback with zero problems. They are great cars. A little quirky, yes. If you think Subaru engines are "over complicated" take a look at a Mazda or BMW engine.
@@mikefoehr235 The head gasket issue has been solved for nearly a decade and affected specific engine models and not others. For example there were no head gasket problems on any of the turbo engines. This Subaru mechanic made a video about it. ua-cam.com/video/-aq0hDvKJ5Q/v-deo.html
@@mikefoehr235 I was apprehensive about the CVT when I bought the Outback and it is a non issue. Totally invisible and behaves like a regular AT....except in extreme steeps...that's the only problem I know of. You are kind of dating yourself bro. LOL.
Watching I DO CARS with Eric....that plastic jacket around the cooling jackets are there to help prevent hotter and cooler liquid from mixing. I watched him do a 3UR FE 5.7 V8 and the engine was so severely overheated that the plastic jacket melted to the cooling jackets of the block. Ivan by not removing the engine, you saved the customer a SHIT LOAD of money in labour. Hats off to you. I am really surprised you can reuse TTY head bolts. I personally would not do it. Maybe i am to overly cautious. I really hope the new replacement parts are correct and will be working well for a good long time.
Wow, Ivan! You did it so meticulous!! Great process to remove it all in situ! Very clever. I would run away hahaha!! Great video! On problem solving and thought process! Love it so far!! Many many thumbs up!!
Love this type of video Ivan. Ironically I just did a valve clearance check and adjustment on a v4 Honda motorcycle engine and you wouldn’t believe the similarities or at least the common principles and concepts. Granted I never removed the head itself and the valve train doesn’t have rockers, but a lot of familiar items to me at least.
Feels like you might want to go the hard way at home if you're really trying to do it cheap (like not replacing head bolts, exhaust gaskets, and whatever sundries) but why you'd do it when you're charging for your time and exposing yourself to comebacks, IDK.
@@radman999 Aren't they TTY bolts? the threads will be stretched out. When taken out they usually are pretty cleary used, when you get up close. You *might* get away with re-using them once if you're doing it at home, but for Ivan new bolts are cheap insurance (and anyway the customer pays) against galling a thread in the block or spending a day of his own time fixing a leaky head gasket as a comeback, so why risk it?
@@MrAmorti I am a dealer tech, we have had multiple SBs (TSBs) stating to reuse the the bolts. After personally doing hundreds of these, not a single failure in 10 years. The only problems I have seen are from crappy aftermarket Fail-Pro gaskets.
The Sad Subaru eh? I can think of another word that starts with S to describe these newer Subarus. But one thing we can all agree on here is the speed and precision of your diagnosing and finding problems is pretty much unmatched, right up there with the best of the best! And then even going to the next level and doing the repairs as well. You got a great thing going here man.
Happy Independence Day from Canada. My wife has a 2011 Subaru Forester. She had no end of problems with oil leaks at the cam cover because there is a special RTV that has to be used or it leaks. I found a service bulletin and they finally fixed it at the dealer after I printed it for her to show they and they bought the special RTV. They did the cover three times before using the right stuff.
Good work Ivan! You're a brave man taking on this job. lol A little dab of grease should hold those small parts in place during reassembly. Looking forward to Part 3!
Oil leak could be the seal on the oil pump. Take off the oil pump and check the bolts that seal the rotor. If they are loose, oil pressure is getting around the rotor and forcing the oil pump seal out of the housing. South Main Auto just did a shorts on this very problem. Great video!! Thank you so much!
Those head bolts squeaked by just enough to clear the frame. Amen. What joy it must be reinstalling the rockers. Whatever method it takes - - so far so good at the half-way point.
Again you find a more efficient way to make a repair, so cool. Doing an in-frame head R/R in older Subarus wasn't easy, but not super-difficult either, but now, it's getting rough. They still have numerous engine issues regardless of year or engine series unfortunately. My local Toyota/Honda indie tech has added Hyundai and Subaru to his list of brands he's set up to work on "because they're big money makers" - when he said that, I thought of Ivan and his feelings towards Hyundai!!
I was thinking all was right in the world Ivan is doing a wrenching video, till you said I'm not changing the head bolts. Time to reevaluate Good luck on reassembly.
Nice thorough video on disassembling heads. The same procedure i am planning to conduct on my fb25 later this year. Been thinking through every step how to do it without removing the engine. You've cleared with you video many thing to me. Big thanks Ivan from another Ivan :) To hold in place while assembling back we use solidol or any other thick grease. Small tack of it will do the trick. Basically you could glue using thick grease rockers to stay in place they tend to fall out and the shims on exhaust valves.
Of course you've already done this job. Did you have to use a fair amount of grease to hold in all those wonderful valve rocker and lifter pieces? And I imagine you've done that kind of torque procedure before and got away with it? Great set of mechanic Hands you've got!! Thanks for the best short cut in Subaru's history!! All the best from Surrey BC Canada
I did a head gasket on an older Subaru Outback with the same J25 engine (older engines commonly had head gasket issues) without removing the engine from the vehicle but the lack of clearance made it big a pain in the tush. I swore if I ever did that job again I would definitely remove the engine. BTW, I sometimes use heavy sticky grease to hold tricky parts in place during reassembly.
Actually, what works well is GREEN automatic transmission assembly lube which is actually designed for that specific purpose when assembling an automatic transmission.
Use some assembly lube, like white grease, to hold the rockers and shims in place. The pivots will stay without issue. I bet you can install the cam carrier as an assembly then.
I think the plastic sleeve helps regulate combustion temperature at start up. It lets the Combustion chamber come up to temperature Faster with low temperature coolant running through the Coolant jacket outside the cylinder walls.
dang good job man I did not think that head was going to come off of there and I damn sure cannot believe a Subaru has that kind of a dang problem that is just insane
Yes siree...those Subaru engines have a method of disassembly and reassembly of their own ! I don't recall the miles on this one but I'm fairly sure you might consider replacing the timing chains and ALL pully's/tensioners at this point as I'm almost sure they have a end of lifespan per OEM. Not sure when they went to chains as I've mostly seen belts on those Subaru's. This will be something interesting as there seemed to be a lot of oil in that cylinder. I do know this much with Subaru engines, follow procedure !
Dayum! Never thought it could be done in car because of the head bolts. Nice job! You may want to have a machine shop touch up the seat for the burned valve.
Ivan, I will send that head to the machine shop and have them clean it, do a valve seat properly, and then put it all back together. It is most likely that due to the open area of the broken valve, the surface of the head is full of carbon and probably some pitting from the broken valve, and the new valve won't seal properly and you could end up having future issues. To prevent doing that job again I will send it to the machine shop.
Wow, they said it couldn't be done. I thought you were going to have trouble pulling out the head bolts due to the proximity of the frame. Well done Ivan. Hopefully you won't run into a new insurmountable problem with the "jiggly bits" during the reinstall.
You have done than I but as you said that people would disagree with the head bolts. I would put new tty back in. It’s not a big deal to get them. But still a great video.
I remember that time one of my customers had a rough idle and a code for throttle position or something I can't remember. Anyway I said let's try cleaning throttle body. It was a Friday afternoon and I was in a hurry. Engine was warm and I hosed the tb down with brake cleaner with it still hooked to intake. Wiped it down fires the car up instantly shut key off and raised my hands as that engine just screamed to at least 9 or 10k rpm. It was a good old 2.2 in a cobalt. Far as I know it's still running around town here but the noises that engine made will forever haunt me.
I'm concerned the valve seat may be burnt as well. You should be able to tell when you lap in the new valve. Would absolutely get new head bolts. The old ones may be fine initially but my concern is long term, considering their length and being TTY. Are those shims or spacers? in other words does this thing have hydraulic lifters? if not proper size shims would be needed especially with a new valve. Love your videos, thanks again. Not sure I would have opted to pull the eng. either. It's not like you can't if need be.
I was thinking the same when he mentioned valve shims, almost certainly going to need one new shim. I also would be replacing TTY head bolts, not a job you'd want to do twice.
One of the downsides of a boxer style engine is that everything important ends up pushed against the sides the engine bay. It's a lot of work just to get in there, for something that would be a fairly straight forward task on a normal 4 banger.
Two heads, more camshafts, less under hood access, more complexity. If they were really advantageous, why haven't all manufacturers made them? The Corvair? Not here anymore.
Subaru boxer engines are particularly complex. The only reason I'd still consider buying a Subaru is that their reliability is amongst the best. But I've owned so many Hondas that it's my go-to choice for cars that will suit 95% of people who want a car.
@@hugh007 Lower hood profile was the main reason, to save vertical space. And a boxer engine is inherently smoother than all engines except an inline 6 (which would be too long.
They say two heads are better than one . Not so sure that applies to this Subaru motor. Ivan how on earth did you get talked into doing this job ? Diag is way easier but it does make great contents.
Old Subaru mechanic showed me this.. to loosen the balancer bolt take a breaker bar and have the handle position under the right side front frame then hit the starter... It works every time
I believe the reason why Subaru suggests removing the engine first, is because of those pesky valve train components. If just 1 piece falls out of place during reassembly, it can become disastrous. It can be done this way, but It's so much easier to work with if the engine is on a stand. Just take your time and double check everything Ivan. I know you got this.
reassembly would be a lot easier if you use chainsaw chain bar oil then all the parts will stick and stay put, also used to use spray cans of plumbers freezer to temporarily stick parts into position the freezer cools to -70C and this makes the oil solid like wax so you can for a few minutes fix things in strange positions, makes some things that are impossible possible,
@@keltecshooter "plumber's freezer" I think is an aerosol spray used by plumbers to temporarily freeze pipes (to isolate the water supply). Basically refrigerant of some kind in a can.
@@mortimersnerdishere thanks for the reply, oh, one more thing, I lube them and follow the original FSM tightening procedure for their standard (single layer gaskets), works fine. How do you torque them?
@@jo300hn I lube them but torque them to 90ft lbs(center) and 80ft lbs (outer) with a digital torque wrench. It gives you the final torque reading. Over time I've seen it more accurate with old bolts because even if you turn the correct degrees, you can't tell if that bolt is stretching
@@mortimersnerdishere yep good thinking, I've got to do another one in a couple of weeks, I'm always gathering information from other people's positive experiences, thanks.
I wonder if the reason the manuals are more likely to burn valves has to do with people revving them higher ? IIRC, this generation automatics are a CVT
Definitely worth having a go with the engine in the car, can always pull it out if you really have to. I think Subaru want you to work on the engine rotated on a stand so gravity holds the bits together when you reassemble it. Should be interesting putting it back together 😁 Enjoyed watching 👌🏻
I thought you weren’t going to do this job. You have the same problem i have, can’t say no. The other thing that works on the damper pulley bolt is to position the socket and breaker bar resting the bar against the top of the driver side frame. Bump the key and the starter will bump the engine enough to break the bolt lose.
Great video but it would be so much easier and probably faster if you just remove the engine and put it in a stand. I have pulled several EJs out myself and I know people that can get them out in about 45 mins with a lift.
Can't remember the official name but on a Honda I used a weighted socket on the amazingly tight crank bolt, after trying a regular type socket. I was amazed at how the bolt zipped off. Not sure if there's a version for Subaru engines. I mention this because I see the Subaru faithful making pilgrimages to the shop of St. Ivan 😆
There may be, I have had normal sockets remove that main pulley bolt using the 1/2 electric milwaukee. The thick wall socket does the job with small torque tools.
You can use a thick grease when putting it back together, to help glue the parts in place until you get the cams slapped on there. I think it's do-able... I can see why they wanted the engine removed though.
Nice work, didn’t hear you cuss once. Where did you get the half inch swivel rachet with the extension? I can use one of those. Happy Independence Day!
Old guy here... took only "Engines 101" (1/2 a century ago) and learned:
-1- when you open up holes in engines you ALWAYS plug them with rags.
-2- always keep cylinder components in their respective order.
-3- and more, of course, including the value of TEST LIGHTS!!
A generation of learning remains! I.E., some things never change. Some things ALWAYS change requiring constant retraining... Thank GOD for Ivan, et al, and the inter-web.
Ivan, I'm always amazed at the levels of repairs that you will undertake in your home garage with the tools that you have! I've removed engines at my parents garage years ago, but we had overhead hoists to help with the process and the space to be able to lift rigs up off the ground a few feet and still be able to work on them, so seeing you do it in your garage is fantastic.
This looked less trouble than the one you did about a year ago, at least from my chair drinking coffee, nicely done
I'm drinking coffee too!!
Watching ur process is enthralling, hands of a surgeon , patience of a saint, nerves of a burglar, u r 1 skilled mechanic, thanks for posting
I’ve never seen the attraction of Subaru and this video helps me understand why 🙂
The leftist greenies like them since their beloved Volvos are no longer in their price range. I’ve been an Asian import technician for almost 33 years and Subaru has always lagged behind Toyota and Honda as far as trouble free reliability.
One attraction of Subaru is you get all wheel drive and decent reliability of you do your maintenance.
The other attraction is that replacing more "mundane" parts like water pumps, alternators, ac compressors and other parts is much easier since the engine sits north-south.
I have a 2020 WRX and in 46K miles it has had zero issues, with good tires goes through a foot of snow without a problem, and is fun to drive.
@@justahasbeen
Sometimes it's enough... 😉
Yep, love my Subarus. Got a 03 WRX and believe it or not a 2014 Forester. 107K miles on the Forester and no issues. Maintenance is key of course. So many horror stories come from POs who abused their cars or never did any maintenance.
*WRX
I've done so many heads on Subarus but never one with a chain, I'm wondering if some of the tips I've discovered on the belted one's will transfer over...
I always use rubber bands for the head bolts, Pull them out of the head enough to clear the engine block then wrap the rubber band around all the bolts to keep them in place. So they don't interfere with the removal or installation of the head, catch on the frame rail or drop out. This also helps in locating the new head gasket for reinstallation.
Another tip was to spend the extra 20-30min to remove both axles and loosen the engine mounts and just push the engine over to the opposite side you are working with...gives you TONS of room! The reason i pull the axles...i used to not do this until i popped the tulip out of the axle cup a few times 😆 so i just take the extra time to pull then to avoid damaging the shafts.
@@mejesse809 what i just described both are short cuts and require no parts🤷
Totally admire how you approached this Ivan, determined as ever. However its far easier to remove the engine, i can get one out in around 45-50 minutes. The boxer is a pig to dismantle in situ. Great video as ever. 👍
Yeah, i love the primary wiring harness in the Subarus. once youve done it a couple of times, pulling the engine is like riding a bike. the 2.5i are easier though, being that its NA.
Biggest problem is going to be getting all those parts sitting in the right place on re-assembly and not tightening something down that is not quite aligned - I'm glad I'm just along for the ride!!!
Omg, impressive how you tackle things logically! Loved this video, waiting for part 3 Ivan.
I said you were going to come up with a way of doing it in-situ! you area legend Ivan. So far the difficult part has been everything except the actual head removal, and those difficult bits aren't all that difficult. If a DIY'er takes their time, they could do it too after watching your video 👍
And... they, too, would benefit from taking their own private videos to recall how it all goes together should there be a time lapse in between removal and reinstall. (USPS delivering parts, machine shop seating valves, etc.)
I dont think i will buy a Subaru, my back would be ready for surgery after that there. Kudos to your dedication towards satisfied customers.
Another great video Ivan! After all your diligence and game plan of this repair.. I have definitely confirmed with myself that I will never buy a Subaru. A way over complicated 4 cylinder engine that makes absolutely no sense to own or service. You have an incredible abundance of knowledge and patience.. and thank you for sharing these great videos. Happy 4th of July!
Boxers are very difficult to work on. Conventional is much more practical and cheaper to maintain in the long run. Boxers are known for head gasket issues with Subaru. Maybe newer ones are better.
Just bought my second Subaru after putting 170K miles on my 17 Outback with zero problems. They are great cars. A little quirky, yes. If you think Subaru engines are "over complicated" take a look at a Mazda or BMW engine.
@@mikefoehr235 The head gasket issue has been solved for nearly a decade and affected specific engine models and not others. For example there were no head gasket problems on any of the turbo engines. This Subaru mechanic made a video about it. ua-cam.com/video/-aq0hDvKJ5Q/v-deo.html
@@TubeBrowser2 So Subaru got the head gasket sorted and now to keep things interesting they provide Useless CVTs. Thank God i will never own one.
@@mikefoehr235 I was apprehensive about the CVT when I bought the Outback and it is a non issue. Totally invisible and behaves like a regular AT....except in extreme steeps...that's the only problem I know of. You are kind of dating yourself bro. LOL.
Like watching a bomb tech at work. I was waiting to see parts fly everywhere.
Nice work Ivan - and putting a cardboard tray underneath is a great trick to catch anything that falls off. Looking forward to the next video.
Watching I DO CARS with Eric....that plastic jacket around the cooling jackets are there to help prevent hotter and cooler liquid from mixing. I watched him do a 3UR FE 5.7 V8 and the engine was so severely overheated that the plastic jacket melted to the cooling jackets of the block. Ivan by not removing the engine, you saved the customer a SHIT LOAD of money in labour. Hats off to you. I am really surprised you can reuse TTY head bolts. I personally would not do it. Maybe i am to overly cautious. I really hope the new replacement parts are correct and will be working well for a good long time.
You could be a heart surgeon. Wow. The precision and patience.
Thanks, Ivan.
Happy Independence Day, Patriots.
★彡[1776]彡★
Love the way you walk us through your thought processes, then explain as you walk through the physical work.
Good job Ivan; Eric O would be proud of you for taking on a Subaru. Many Thanks.
Wow, Ivan! You did it so meticulous!! Great process to remove it all in situ! Very clever. I would run away hahaha!! Great video! On problem solving and thought process! Love it so far!! Many many thumbs up!!
Excellent job Ivan that looked super tricky should be fun going back together! Maybe tip the car on it's side... 🤣
Jacking one side up might actually be a help, if you can still reach to get in there.
Can probably hold the rockers in place with grease whilst the cams go in.
@@thirzapeevey2395 It's actually a big help lifting it some makes it much easier on the back reaching down to the low mounted boxer engine
@@ferrumignis Yes or break in lube as it's sticky!
@@ferrumignis Good idea IMO.
Love this type of video Ivan. Ironically I just did a valve clearance check and adjustment on a v4 Honda motorcycle engine and you wouldn’t believe the similarities or at least the common principles and concepts. Granted I never removed the head itself and the valve train doesn’t have rockers, but a lot of familiar items to me at least.
The engine takes about 45 mins to remove. This is definitely doing it the hard way.
That’s what I have seen. The hardest part appears to be the flex plate but this is a manual. Is the starter a pita too?
Feels like you might want to go the hard way at home if you're really trying to do it cheap (like not replacing head bolts, exhaust gaskets, and whatever sundries) but why you'd do it when you're charging for your time and exposing yourself to comebacks, IDK.
@@MrAmorti FYI, replacing the head bolts is not necessary.
@@radman999 Aren't they TTY bolts? the threads will be stretched out. When taken out they usually are pretty cleary used, when you get up close.
You *might* get away with re-using them once if you're doing it at home, but for Ivan new bolts are cheap insurance (and anyway the customer pays) against galling a thread in the block or spending a day of his own time fixing a leaky head gasket as a comeback, so why risk it?
@@MrAmorti I am a dealer tech, we have had multiple SBs (TSBs) stating to reuse the the bolts. After personally doing hundreds of these, not a single failure in 10 years. The only problems I have seen are from crappy aftermarket Fail-Pro gaskets.
I've been told the plastic sleeve around the cylinders takes up space in the water jacket (less coolant) for quicker warmup time in colder climates.
The Sad Subaru eh? I can think of another word that starts with S to describe these newer Subarus.
But one thing we can all agree on here is the speed and precision of your diagnosing and finding problems is pretty much unmatched, right up there with the best of the best! And then even going to the next level and doing the repairs as well. You got a great thing going here man.
On the ginormous timing cover...."its what makes a Subaru a Subaru"...crazy stuff😎🇨🇦👍
Happy Independence Day from Canada. My wife has a 2011 Subaru Forester. She had no end of problems with oil leaks at the cam cover because there is a special RTV that has to be used or it leaks. I found a service bulletin and they finally fixed it at the dealer after I printed it for her to show they and they bought the special RTV. They did the cover three times before using the right stuff.
Good work Ivan! You're a brave man taking on this job. lol A little dab of grease should hold those small parts in place during reassembly. Looking forward to Part 3!
Wow quite the project Ivan. Great step by step though. Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to the next part.
Epic! I'm glad everything cleared the frame rail. It was a bit of a cliffhanger.
Man, the video is still not finished and I already have the need to tell you, that is great video. Thanks.
Glad you liked it :)
Oil leak could be the seal on the oil pump. Take off the oil pump and check the bolts that seal the rotor. If they are loose, oil pressure is getting around the rotor and forcing the oil pump seal out of the housing. South Main Auto just did a shorts on this very problem.
Great video!! Thank you so much!
The oil pump is integrated into the timing chain cover.
Those head bolts squeaked by just enough to clear the frame. Amen. What joy it must be reinstalling the rockers. Whatever method it takes - - so far so good at the half-way point.
Again you find a more efficient way to make a repair, so cool. Doing an in-frame head R/R in older Subarus wasn't easy, but not super-difficult either, but now, it's getting rough. They still have numerous engine issues regardless of year or engine series unfortunately. My local Toyota/Honda indie tech has added Hyundai and Subaru to his list of brands he's set up to work on "because they're big money makers" - when he said that, I thought of Ivan and his feelings towards Hyundai!!
I was thinking all was right in the world Ivan is doing a wrenching video, till you said I'm not changing the head bolts. Time to reevaluate Good luck on reassembly.
Nice thorough video on disassembling heads. The same procedure i am planning to conduct on my fb25 later this year. Been thinking through every step how to do it without removing the engine. You've cleared with you video many thing to me. Big thanks Ivan from another Ivan :) To hold in place while assembling back we use solidol or any other thick grease. Small tack of it will do the trick. Basically you could glue using thick grease rockers to stay in place they tend to fall out and the shims on exhaust valves.
Ivan, the guy who can't say no. Great blog though, thanks.
I thought you weren’t going to take on the job 😂 Thank you for the video. Happy 5th!
Of course you've already done this job. Did you have to use a fair amount of grease to hold in all those wonderful valve rocker and lifter pieces? And I imagine you've done that kind of torque procedure before and got away with it? Great set of mechanic Hands you've got!! Thanks for the best short cut in Subaru's history!!
All the best from Surrey BC Canada
Ivan just showed a new way of doing this without removing the engine what a legend
Hey sir you are a electrician and Makainak also you are just amazing.
At the 27 minute mark you said what I was thinking all along about that valvetrain, 'this thing is gonna' be fun to put back together.' Nice job Ivan!
I did a head gasket on an older Subaru Outback with the same J25 engine (older engines commonly had head gasket issues) without removing the engine from the vehicle but the lack of clearance made it big a pain in the tush. I swore if I ever did that job again I would definitely remove the engine.
BTW, I sometimes use heavy sticky grease to hold tricky parts in place during reassembly.
Actually, what works well is GREEN automatic transmission assembly lube which is actually designed for that specific purpose when assembling an automatic transmission.
Yep pull the EJ it's not hard, and you get a better end result
@@jo300hn I did the spark plugs a year earlier and I've should have known better when it came time for its head gaskets...🤦♂
I roared in cheer when you took that head off! A lot better than removing the engine! Nice
Did it with the engine in the car! Very good Ivan. That saved a lot of time!
Use some assembly lube, like white grease, to hold the rockers and shims in place. The pivots will stay without issue. I bet you can install the cam carrier as an assembly then.
I dont know how the client convinced you to do this. It looks like a complete pain
Good morning and happy 4th of July to you. Always great videos.
Ivan, I admire that you do the diag and take the job yourself even when it is a pain and little money to be made.
Nice work Ivan. Glad you didn't need to pull the engine. Looks like its going well.
FYI Eric O removes the two motor mount bolts and jacks up the engine and slides it towards the driver's side and gives you more room.
You are a brave soul Ivan, but kudos to you for taking it on! I am looking forward to the conclusion in Part 12, lol. Happy 4th of July!
I think the plastic sleeve helps regulate combustion temperature at start up. It lets the Combustion chamber come up to temperature Faster with low temperature coolant running through the Coolant jacket outside the cylinder walls.
dang good job man I did not think that head was going to come off of there and I damn sure cannot believe a Subaru has that kind of a dang problem that is just insane
Yes siree...those Subaru engines have a method of disassembly and reassembly of their own ! I don't recall the miles on this one but I'm fairly sure you might consider replacing the timing chains and ALL pully's/tensioners at this point as I'm almost sure they have a end of lifespan per OEM. Not sure when they went to chains as I've mostly seen belts on those Subaru's.
This will be something interesting as there seemed to be a lot of oil in that cylinder. I do know this much with Subaru engines, follow procedure !
Can't belive you went for it! Nice work
Dayum! Never thought it could be done in car because of the head bolts. Nice job! You may want to have a machine shop touch up the seat for the burned valve.
Nice work Ivan. Happy 4th of July.
Wooh! Nice series so far Ivan! Question, why not pull the motor?
Ivan, I will send that head to the machine shop and have them clean it, do a valve seat properly, and then put it all back together. It is most likely that due to the open area of the broken valve, the surface of the head is full of carbon and probably some pitting from the broken valve, and the new valve won't seal properly and you could end up having future issues. To prevent doing that job again I will send it to the machine shop.
Wow, they said it couldn't be done. I thought you were going to have trouble pulling out the head bolts due to the proximity of the frame. Well done Ivan. Hopefully you won't run into a new insurmountable problem with the "jiggly bits" during the reinstall.
Ivan, Great job as usual. Makes me glad that I bought a Toyota rather than a Subaru! Looking forward the the subsequent videos. Have a good one!
Well done Ivan your a star matey Happy 4th
You have done than I but as you said that people would disagree with the head bolts. I would put new tty back in. It’s not a big deal to get them. But still a great video.
I remember that time one of my customers had a rough idle and a code for throttle position or something I can't remember. Anyway I said let's try cleaning throttle body. It was a Friday afternoon and I was in a hurry. Engine was warm and I hosed the tb down with brake cleaner with it still hooked to intake. Wiped it down fires the car up instantly shut key off and raised my hands as that engine just screamed to at least 9 or 10k rpm. It was a good old 2.2 in a cobalt. Far as I know it's still running around town here but the noises that engine made will forever haunt me.
😂😂
Ivan you have big balls to try something like that in your garage without taking the engine out
Was there no way to disconnect and dismount the engine such that it could be rocked up on that end? My lower back is feeling this whole procedure.
I'm concerned the valve seat may be burnt as well. You should be able to tell when you lap in the new valve. Would absolutely get new head bolts. The old ones may be fine initially but my concern is long term, considering their length and being TTY. Are those shims or spacers? in other words does this thing have hydraulic lifters? if not proper size shims would be needed especially with a new valve. Love your videos, thanks again. Not sure I would have opted to pull the eng. either. It's not like you can't if need be.
I was thinking the same when he mentioned valve shims, almost certainly going to need one new shim. I also would be replacing TTY head bolts, not a job you'd want to do twice.
very likely, the seat and guide is also smoked, even if not they may be loose in the head from being torched.
One of the downsides of a boxer style engine is that everything important ends up pushed against the sides the engine bay. It's a lot of work just to get in there, for something that would be a fairly straight forward task on a normal 4 banger.
Also to get things to seal is more of a challenge. Horizontal as opposed to more vertical in a vee engine or inline 4 or 6.
Unless you own an older VW Beetle. Then you take about 20 minutes to pull the engine and you're all set!
Two heads, more camshafts, less under hood access, more complexity. If they were really advantageous, why haven't all manufacturers made them? The Corvair? Not here anymore.
Subaru boxer engines are particularly complex. The only reason I'd still consider buying a Subaru is that their reliability is amongst the best. But I've owned so many Hondas that it's my go-to choice for cars that will suit 95% of people who want a car.
@@hugh007 Lower hood profile was the main reason, to save vertical space. And a boxer engine is inherently smoother than all engines except an inline 6 (which would be too long.
Ivan, You should have put the suburu on it's side.
They say two heads are better than one . Not so sure that applies to this Subaru motor. Ivan how on earth did you get talked into doing this job ? Diag is way easier but it does make great contents.
Old Subaru mechanic showed me this.. to loosen the balancer bolt take a breaker bar and have the handle position under the right side front frame then hit the starter... It works every time
I've done that on my own Suzuki XL7. But there is a risk of damaging the starter or ring gear if the bolt is really tight 😬
While you were removing the head, I could hear Eric O saying ‘Come on baby!’
This one made me nervous - you a brave fellow Ivan :-)
That was surgical! Next, I expect you to do some work by way of a mirror, and then by using the endoscope!
Excellent job Ivan. Why don't you pull the motor? Don't you have an engine crane?
I believe the reason why Subaru suggests removing the engine first, is because of those pesky valve train components. If just 1 piece falls out of place during reassembly, it can become disastrous. It can be done this way, but It's so much easier to work with if the engine is on a stand. Just take your time and double check everything Ivan. I know you got this.
reassembly would be a lot easier if you use chainsaw chain bar oil then all the parts will stick and stay put, also used to use spray cans of plumbers freezer to temporarily stick parts into position the freezer cools to -70C and this makes the oil solid like wax so you can for a few minutes fix things in strange positions, makes some things that are impossible possible,
-70c is over -155f
That's some cold ass beer you are drinking
@@keltecshooter "plumber's freezer" I think is an aerosol spray used by plumbers to temporarily freeze pipes (to isolate the water supply). Basically refrigerant of some kind in a can.
I use Marine Grease to stick stuff on temporarily :)
The tackiest automatic transmission assembly lube would work great.
Thought you said you weren’t gonna do this repair….lol..
I guess that plastic insert does something to help limit/eliminate cavitation in the cooling system.
That was my guess as well.
You're making my head hurt doing it this way!!
I reuse EJ head bolts with no issue, what's your thoughts on the head bolt reuse?
@@jo300hn I reuse them myself unless they are rusted/corroded
@@mortimersnerdishere thanks for the reply, oh, one more thing, I lube them and follow the original FSM tightening procedure for their standard (single layer gaskets), works fine.
How do you torque them?
@@jo300hn I lube them but torque them to 90ft lbs(center) and 80ft lbs (outer) with a digital torque wrench. It gives you the final torque reading. Over time I've seen it more accurate with old bolts because even if you turn the correct degrees, you can't tell if that bolt is stretching
@@mortimersnerdishere yep good thinking, I've got to do another one in a couple of weeks, I'm always gathering information from other people's positive experiences, thanks.
I wonder if the reason the manuals are more likely to burn valves has to do with people revving them higher ? IIRC, this generation automatics are a CVT
Subaru has done the move the bonnet prop for servicing right from the first models 👍🏻😃
I had a Brat Ran excellant until my brother totaled it,,,,,,,that was a fun truck !
Hi Ivan. Are my eyes failing me, or did I see the old part number on the label stuck on the bag that had the new valve? 2:07 min mark.
Definitely worth having a go with the engine in the car, can always pull it out if you really have to. I think Subaru want you to work on the engine rotated on a stand so gravity holds the bits together when you reassemble it. Should be interesting putting it back together 😁 Enjoyed watching 👌🏻
Some tacky assembly lube to hold the bits and pieces in ought to do her. 👍
I thought you weren’t going to do this job. You have the same problem i have, can’t say no.
The other thing that works on the damper pulley bolt is to position the socket and breaker bar resting the bar against the top of the driver side frame. Bump the key and the starter will bump the engine enough to break the bolt lose.
That's a tough one Ivan, looking for more.
Great video but it would be so much easier and probably faster if you just remove the engine and put it in a stand.
I have pulled several EJs out myself and I know people that can get them out in about 45 mins with a lift.
@2:07 The part number on the new packet (AA670) is the old part number shown on the laptop screen. Should be AA750 as you stated @1:50.
Hi is installing the correct OEM part. The upgraded valve is longer and requires both heads to be removed and cams and rockers replaced.
Can't remember the official name but on a Honda I used a weighted socket on the amazingly tight crank bolt, after trying a regular type socket. I was amazed at how the bolt zipped off.
Not sure if there's a version for Subaru engines.
I mention this because I see the Subaru faithful making pilgrimages to the shop of St. Ivan 😆
There may be, I have had normal sockets remove that main pulley bolt using the 1/2 electric milwaukee. The thick wall socket does the job with small torque tools.
Oy Vey! Why Subaru, Why? Nice work Ivan. Happy 4th!
Clean precise work, like a Surgeon.
A piece of cardboard against the condenser would be cheap insurance. I had to learn that the hard way.
I tightened those headbolts with my fingers. That plastic liner may be to inhibit cavitation and electrolysis
this makes me appreciate my old chevy truck with the 350 !!
You can use a thick grease when putting it back together, to help glue the parts in place until you get the cams slapped on there. I think it's do-able... I can see why they wanted the engine removed though.
Ameising work Ivan you just married the oil leaks onthis subaru for ever
Nice work, didn’t hear you cuss once. Where did you get the half inch swivel rachet with the extension? I can use one of those.
Happy Independence Day!
All Harbor Freight ratchets and Craftsman sockets :)
Ivan nice job. Like you mentioned reassembly is going to make for a very interesting video. Thanks for sharing. Happy 4th of July 🇺🇸