Thanks for this video. I have a film project in Greenland during a 14-day trek, self-supported with bivouacs and no way to recharge-so I’m definitely going to need a lot of batteries. I hope to film around 2 hours per day at a minimum with the R5C in XF AVC 24/30/60 fps... I've been wracking my brain for days comparing all the batteries, from the Moman Pro, FXlion Two, Smallrig, Viltrox... Initially, I thought I'd take USB-C rechargeable V-mounts and be able to charge them with power banks along the way, but it doesn't seem so simple because apparently, you need power banks with at least 45W or even 65W output on USB-C to hope to recharge a V-mount. This was also to save a bit of weight, as we'll be on foot in the mountains for 200km. For now, I’ve opted for 5 or 7x Moman Power 99 Pro, with a 65W USB-C port and "rechargeable" with powerbanks 65W (i think...). I chose Moman because I’ve already had a Power 99 with my BMPCC4k for years, and it still works just as well, with a light weight and compact size, at least for my commercial work. But Andycine batteries interests me because, if I can indeed get more hours of filming per day, it means fewer batteries to carry for me. The Andycine looks really good in terms of performance. I understand that it’s possible to power the R5C via USB-C, as long as it’s activated on the battery. The downside is indeed that it can’t be recharged via USB-C, only through DTAP? In your opinion, for powering a body like the R5C, is it better to use only USB-C > OR DTAP to USB-C (with Kondor adaptator for example)? I’m wondering which of the two would consume less and be more efficient in terms of filming time (maybe it doesn’t make much difference between the two). Is it also possible to recharge the Andycine battery, for example, with a DTAP > USB-C > fast wall adapter (when I have access to power)? I want to avoid having to carry bulky DTAP chargers. What's your opinion? Thanks! 🙏
Thanks for a helpful and interesting comparison. I just bought 2 x Moman 99 Pro batteries on an Amazon Prime day deal, so relatively good value. I guess that I will have to see how well they work out. I bought the Pro vs Standard Moman 99 cells because the Pro had a USB-C port plus an OLED display vs 2 USB-A ports and no display on Standard. They come with advice on how to use, charge, store etc to maximise life. These are my first V-mount cells and bought as I'm trying to teach myself video skills, decided I need more battery power, but find the differences between cells can be confusing. I was initially attracted to the SmallRig 99 cells (based on brand reputation) until I saw the price. I guess like most things in life, whilst you can expect to get what you pay for, the outliers at both ends of the price and perceived quality spectrum are best avoided (unless initial capital cost is everything or money/cost is of no concern). I also guess one thing to be aware of, apart from displays, ports and display voltage is just how good the internal Li-ion cells are inside and this is essentially hidden and really hard to tell and may even vary over time as a manufacturer might well adjust their components based on cost, availability and technical considerations. Quality of cells may also relate to sustained current delivery capability. For sure powering lights will require a lot higher current draw than a small monitor or just topping up an internal camera battery. So that's why some cells failed earlier than expected. The percentage power remaining is probably a function of voltage adjusted by any internal software algorithm - which may be very different to the amount of current that cells might be able to sustain for more than a few seconds, when not facing high demand. I guess to avoid 'surprises' one needs to do one's own tests, keep notes and track performance over time. One tip I offer is to mark on the outer case (eg name with a sharpie A, B, C etc) all your cells of the same type. Since they will all look the same, it's otherwise hard to know one from another just by outward appearance. That way you can better ensure they are use rotated and/or if any one cell seems to be falling down on performance (eg as it ages, runs longer cycles or suffers differential abuse). Right tool for the job comes to mind ..... Looking at features needed (rather than unused/unwanted), trying to establish a reliable brand (on reputation/feedback) and not paying 'over the odds' is probably a sensible approach for most folk who otherwise won't be battery experts. As an analogy (probably unhelpful).... a scalpel, Japanese Damascus chef's knife and a chainsaw are all good cutting tools with very different capabilities, prices and best use scenarios.
Seems like the Core batteries have better voltage regulating circuits. It’s just a shame the USB is so underpowered. Core needs to update these batteries and add USB-C PD.
Appreciate the comparison video! Wished I had seen this comparison before I invested in three of the MOMAN 99 Pros that have been updated with LCD screen on the side where the LED lights used to be, and added the USB-C port to the top with a USB-A port. A bit of a concern already is that the LCD screen only shows that the batteries are not charged up to 100%, even when using the D-Tap charger that Moman recommended. I plan on doing a test of how long the batteries last while powering my Godox VL200 & VL150 lights at 100% and at 50% (two powers that I have yet to use on these lights because they're probably brighter than I need them to be for my personal use). Since we use larger Bebob 150 batteries & Aputure video lights for work, I can use these as backup batteries for our remote work shoots.
Thanks Corey. I just bought the big boy, SmallRig 155Wh battery after I made this video. I'm still testing it out so i haven't posted a video on it yet, but so far so good. Lots of ports and output options. I honestly use the original Moman 99 on my FX6 all the time, just because it's my smallest sized and lightest battery. I also recently got a V-Mount battery plate that can Convert ANY V-Mount battery into a USB-C PD. More details on that plate and the other battery to come! Stay in touch with me about your tests. I'm interested to know how your results turn out!!
The ZGCine battery has some issues that make it hard to recommend. 1. It will not charge on my IDX dual charger, nor a dual charger from Anton Bauer. I can only change it via my USBC PD charger, which is both very slow and sometimes the battery will only charge to 90%. 2. The bigger issue is that it does not mount on some of my V-mount battery plates. While I like the compact size and USBC PD port, the battery has too many limitations for me to recommend.
These all use 18650 batteries so depending on the quality of the cells will determine the amperage and overall output 👌 I’m sure Moment is using some really cheap cells in order to get the price down on the batteries probably why they might be rated at 99wh but last the shortest amount of time.
I dont have any experience about video I am a photographer . I decided start videography . can people use this batteries for blackmagic ursa mini pro ? thank you
I think RELIABILITY and Displaying the 'Estimated Run Time' is what it really came down to for me. Also, I didn't want to judge by looks, but which battery just looks the BEST to YOU?
The reason the batteries cut off early on the 60W light is that's basically a 4A draw and as the batteries inside lose charge they get to a point in curve where the voltage drop cause the amps to climb beyond what the BMS can deliver. For example - fully charged most VLocks sit at 16.8V. So inirially to supply say 68W (allowing for inefficiency) you're drawing just over 4A. Pretty soon the voltage will drop to below 3.6V per cell so about 14.2V so now you're drawing 4.8A. So now it comes down to the quality of the BMS and the cells - how much current is it designed to deliver? Probably the ZGCine crapped out at about 5A with plenty of charge left in the cells. So you get what you pay for - some brands will use quality Samsung/Panasonic/LG Chem cells with higher current switching BMS while others will use cheaper brands that overstate their capacity.
Sup brother, Happy Holidays. Ray are you using straight usbc to usbc from FX3 to V Mount battery? I have the tap to usbc condo blue cable but need a simpler set up for my FX3 on a gimbal with my Mount. Was wondering if I can just go USBC cable to USBC cable from FX3 to Mount USBC PD slot?
What's up Johnny? Happy Holidays. Yes, you can! I usually I just use a USB-C to USB-C cable on my FX3 for PD, no battery loss in the camera. I believe the exact cable I use on this rig, came off a Samsung SSD... it's short, high quality made, plenty capableof 9V and more... So nothing special on that part. You can also get 9V through USB-A QC on certain batteries and plates. (Which would also result in No internal camera battery loss). Hope this helps!
It does. I have the Smallrig V Mount 50 rigged on my Ronin RS3 Pro and wanted to keep cables light and easy. Less worried about camera battery loss and more worried about under or over powering the FX3 and frying the internals. I only use V Mounts and don't use dummy batteries for that reason and for that hot swap you mention in your videos! Def super helpful brother and thank you for your prompt response. May your 2024 be your best year ever bro.@@RayValencia
What kind of test is this ? You distribute points for all kind of things, only to ignore them in the conclusion and choose the one you appointed zero points to ? I'm confused.
Thanks Mr IBI, yeah the Core is double the price, and has the least ports, so it's really hard for me to drive that point about the usefulness of having accurate "Time Remaining", and how much better the battery cells are.
The smallrig V-mount battery is missing in this list... :) They're expensive but really great. Also, please.. review the smallrig VND Filter Kit 3651 :)
I ordered the SmallRig V-Mount last night! There was a flash sale on B&H Photo where they had the biggest most expensive SmallRig VB155 battery on sale for LESS than the 99W battery, so I impulse bought the big one! Lol
@@RayValencia lol ... might start to feel heavy on the rig though.... I get 4-5h of shoot time powering FX3 + Portkeys BM5 III (2200nits) with a 99w.. so two bats makes a full day :)
@Superjeanmarc true, probably better for a tripod shoot than handheld. It's bigger and more capacity than the handful of 100wh batteries I own, so I got the big one with the intention of a One and Done battery for the FX6/FX3. I get about 3 hours on average with a 99wh battery in the FX6. Hoping to get 4.5 to 5 hours with the 155wh SmallRig.
@Superjeanmarc 3h on FX6 with a Ninja V. Trying to avoid moving into the full size V-Mounts. I like the look of the smaller square looking Mini V-mounts on the short form factor of the FX6.
Hey bro. Love it. Although, my one complaint is that I have to use an Allen wrench to take off the 15mm Rods. I'd rather it be a thumb screw. Other than that, sexiest shoulder mount in the game!
Cheaper batteries definitely have their place. I’m a gold mount user, and I use Anton Bauer on my cameras so I don’t have to worry about sudden power loss and data corruption, but for lights and monitors, I have a stack of generic Amazon 150 Wh batteries. They don’t last nearly as long as the more expensive AB batts, but they’re cheap enough to keep a bunch on hand so that I know I’ll make it through a day. The cheap batteries are losing total capacity quickly over time, so I’m thinking about switching to Core to compare against AB.
I bought the moman version that looks like the ZGCINE and it died after a month. I'm stuck with it and lost $170. Note to self, no more buying Moman. 😢
I reached out to moman and they did everything they can ti help and even sent my money back. With their kindness, I will give them another chance. I might have just gotten a bad batch and decided to scrap that model.
Moman are awful....Mine swelled and cracked on first charge...plus no after service...Sent it back registered tracked post as requested for a refund or replacement under 3 Year Warrenty. MAILED AND CALLED MANY TIMES ...NEVER HEARD BACK ! USE IDX , HAWKSWOOD or ANTON BAUER...these are real battery suppliers to the industry. Buy cheap, get cheap service and cheap batteries that would not last a day on a serious shoot.
Thanks for this video. I have a film project in Greenland during a 14-day trek, self-supported with bivouacs and no way to recharge-so I’m definitely going to need a lot of batteries. I hope to film around 2 hours per day at a minimum with the R5C in XF AVC 24/30/60 fps...
I've been wracking my brain for days comparing all the batteries, from the Moman Pro, FXlion Two, Smallrig, Viltrox...
Initially, I thought I'd take USB-C rechargeable V-mounts and be able to charge them with power banks along the way, but it doesn't seem so simple because apparently, you need power banks with at least 45W or even 65W output on USB-C to hope to recharge a V-mount. This was also to save a bit of weight, as we'll be on foot in the mountains for 200km. For now, I’ve opted for 5 or 7x Moman Power 99 Pro, with a 65W USB-C port and "rechargeable" with powerbanks 65W (i think...). I chose Moman because I’ve already had a Power 99 with my BMPCC4k for years, and it still works just as well, with a light weight and compact size, at least for my commercial work.
But Andycine batteries interests me because, if I can indeed get more hours of filming per day, it means fewer batteries to carry for me. The Andycine looks really good in terms of performance. I understand that it’s possible to power the R5C via USB-C, as long as it’s activated on the battery. The downside is indeed that it can’t be recharged via USB-C, only through DTAP?
In your opinion, for powering a body like the R5C, is it better to use only USB-C > OR DTAP to USB-C (with Kondor adaptator for example)? I’m wondering which of the two would consume less and be more efficient in terms of filming time (maybe it doesn’t make much difference between the two).
Is it also possible to recharge the Andycine battery, for example, with a DTAP > USB-C > fast wall adapter (when I have access to power)? I want to avoid having to carry bulky DTAP chargers.
What's your opinion? Thanks! 🙏
Thank Ray for such a HELPFUL & DETAILED review of AndyCine , Core SWX, Moman, and ZGCine v mount batteries.
Thanks, I have the newer ZG Cine, new Core NanoX, and SmallRig VB 99 Pro I’m comparing currently
Thanks for a helpful and interesting comparison. I just bought 2 x Moman 99 Pro batteries on an Amazon Prime day deal, so relatively good value. I guess that I will have to see how well they work out. I bought the Pro vs Standard Moman 99 cells because the Pro had a USB-C port plus an OLED display vs 2 USB-A ports and no display on Standard. They come with advice on how to use, charge, store etc to maximise life.
These are my first V-mount cells and bought as I'm trying to teach myself video skills, decided I need more battery power, but find the differences between cells can be confusing. I was initially attracted to the SmallRig 99 cells (based on brand reputation) until I saw the price. I guess like most things in life, whilst you can expect to get what you pay for, the outliers at both ends of the price and perceived quality spectrum are best avoided (unless initial capital cost is everything or money/cost is of no concern).
I also guess one thing to be aware of, apart from displays, ports and display voltage is just how good the internal Li-ion cells are inside and this is essentially hidden and really hard to tell and may even vary over time as a manufacturer might well adjust their components based on cost, availability and technical considerations. Quality of cells may also relate to sustained current delivery capability. For sure powering lights will require a lot higher current draw than a small monitor or just topping up an internal camera battery. So that's why some cells failed earlier than expected. The percentage power remaining is probably a function of voltage adjusted by any internal software algorithm - which may be very different to the amount of current that cells might be able to sustain for more than a few seconds, when not facing high demand.
I guess to avoid 'surprises' one needs to do one's own tests, keep notes and track performance over time. One tip I offer is to mark on the outer case (eg name with a sharpie A, B, C etc) all your cells of the same type. Since they will all look the same, it's otherwise hard to know one from another just by outward appearance. That way you can better ensure they are use rotated and/or if any one cell seems to be falling down on performance (eg as it ages, runs longer cycles or suffers differential abuse).
Right tool for the job comes to mind ..... Looking at features needed (rather than unused/unwanted), trying to establish a reliable brand (on reputation/feedback) and not paying 'over the odds' is probably a sensible approach for most folk who otherwise won't be battery experts. As an analogy (probably unhelpful).... a scalpel, Japanese Damascus chef's knife and a chainsaw are all good cutting tools with very different capabilities, prices and best use scenarios.
Seems like the Core batteries have better voltage regulating circuits. It’s just a shame the USB is so underpowered. Core needs to update these batteries and add USB-C PD.
I couldn't agree more, Sky!
Appreciate the comparison video! Wished I had seen this comparison before I invested in three of the MOMAN 99 Pros that have been updated with LCD screen on the side where the LED lights used to be, and added the USB-C port to the top with a USB-A port. A bit of a concern already is that the LCD screen only shows that the batteries are not charged up to 100%, even when using the D-Tap charger that Moman recommended. I plan on doing a test of how long the batteries last while powering my Godox VL200 & VL150 lights at 100% and at 50% (two powers that I have yet to use on these lights because they're probably brighter than I need them to be for my personal use). Since we use larger Bebob 150 batteries & Aputure video lights for work, I can use these as backup batteries for our remote work shoots.
Thanks Corey. I just bought the big boy, SmallRig 155Wh battery after I made this video. I'm still testing it out so i haven't posted a video on it yet, but so far so good. Lots of ports and output options. I honestly use the original Moman 99 on my FX6 all the time, just because it's my smallest sized and lightest battery. I also recently got a V-Mount battery plate that can Convert ANY V-Mount battery into a USB-C PD. More details on that plate and the other battery to come! Stay in touch with me about your tests. I'm interested to know how your results turn out!!
Did you do that test on the vl200 and 150 yet?
The ZGCine battery has some issues that make it hard to recommend.
1. It will not charge on my IDX dual charger, nor a dual charger from Anton Bauer. I can only change it via my USBC PD charger, which is both very slow and sometimes the battery will only charge to 90%.
2. The bigger issue is that it does not mount on some of my V-mount battery plates. While I like the compact size and USBC PD port, the battery has too many limitations for me to recommend.
These all use 18650 batteries so depending on the quality of the cells will determine the amperage and overall output 👌
I’m sure Moment is using some really cheap cells in order to get the price down on the batteries probably why they might be rated at 99wh but last the shortest amount of time.
very complete and technical, thanks for sharing. I wish you have more brands to keep comparing
Thanks! Did you see the follow up video last week? ua-cam.com/video/CKr9y7YJhHQ/v-deo.html
I have some other unreleased batteries coming soon too!
@@RayValencia I will !
My coreswx Neo came with a PTap charger. Guessing you didn't get one since you got the kit with the dual charger.
Awesome video. Are you charging the camera using the usb C? Or dummy battery? Sorry if you mentioned it on the video already
Nice analysis! Love how you put this together :)
Thanks for watching!!
I dont have any experience about video I am a photographer . I decided start videography . can people use this batteries for blackmagic ursa mini pro ? thank you
I think RELIABILITY and Displaying the 'Estimated Run Time' is what it really came down to for me.
Also, I didn't want to judge by looks, but which battery just looks the BEST to YOU?
The reason the batteries cut off early on the 60W light is that's basically a 4A draw and as the batteries inside lose charge they get to a point in curve where the voltage drop cause the amps to climb beyond what the BMS can deliver. For example - fully charged most VLocks sit at 16.8V. So inirially to supply say 68W (allowing for inefficiency) you're drawing just over 4A. Pretty soon the voltage will drop to below 3.6V per cell so about 14.2V so now you're drawing 4.8A. So now it comes down to the quality of the BMS and the cells - how much current is it designed to deliver? Probably the ZGCine crapped out at about 5A with plenty of charge left in the cells. So you get what you pay for - some brands will use quality Samsung/Panasonic/LG Chem cells with higher current switching BMS while others will use cheaper brands that overstate their capacity.
Great explanation, thanks!
Sup brother, Happy Holidays. Ray are you using straight usbc to usbc from FX3 to V Mount battery? I have the tap to usbc condo blue cable but need a simpler set up for my FX3 on a gimbal with my Mount. Was wondering if I can just go USBC cable to USBC cable from FX3 to Mount USBC PD slot?
What's up Johnny? Happy Holidays. Yes, you can! I usually I just use a USB-C to USB-C cable on my FX3 for PD, no battery loss in the camera. I believe the exact cable I use on this rig, came off a Samsung SSD... it's short, high quality made, plenty capableof 9V and more... So nothing special on that part. You can also get 9V through USB-A QC on certain batteries and plates. (Which would also result in No internal camera battery loss). Hope this helps!
It does. I have the Smallrig V Mount 50 rigged on my Ronin RS3 Pro and wanted to keep cables light and easy. Less worried about camera battery loss and more worried about under or over powering the FX3 and frying the internals. I only use V Mounts and don't use dummy batteries for that reason and for that hot swap you mention in your videos! Def super helpful brother and thank you for your prompt response. May your 2024 be your best year ever bro.@@RayValencia
What kind of test is this ? You distribute points for all kind of things, only to ignore them in the conclusion and choose the one you appointed zero points to ? I'm confused.
Thanks for this. Seems like core is way more expensive but worth it if you are doing paid work and need to trust your gear!
Thanks Mr IBI, yeah the Core is double the price, and has the least ports, so it's really hard for me to drive that point about the usefulness of having accurate "Time Remaining", and how much better the battery cells are.
The smallrig V-mount battery is missing in this list... :) They're expensive but really great. Also, please.. review the smallrig VND Filter Kit 3651 :)
I ordered the SmallRig V-Mount last night! There was a flash sale on B&H Photo where they had the biggest most expensive SmallRig VB155 battery on sale for LESS than the 99W battery, so I impulse bought the big one! Lol
@@RayValencia lol ... might start to feel heavy on the rig though.... I get 4-5h of shoot time powering FX3 + Portkeys BM5 III (2200nits) with a 99w.. so two bats makes a full day :)
@Superjeanmarc true, probably better for a tripod shoot than handheld. It's bigger and more capacity than the handful of 100wh batteries I own, so I got the big one with the intention of a One and Done battery for the FX6/FX3. I get about 3 hours on average with a 99wh battery in the FX6. Hoping to get 4.5 to 5 hours with the 155wh SmallRig.
@@RayValencia 3h on the Fx6 , camera only or with a monitor?
@Superjeanmarc 3h on FX6 with a Ninja V. Trying to avoid moving into the full size V-Mounts. I like the look of the smaller square looking Mini V-mounts on the short form factor of the FX6.
How do you like that 8sinn baseplate? Looks good on the FX6
Hey bro. Love it. Although, my one complaint is that I have to use an Allen wrench to take off the 15mm Rods. I'd rather it be a thumb screw. Other than that, sexiest shoulder mount in the game!
Thank you
Thank you for your share.
Thanks for the support!
Cheaper batteries definitely have their place. I’m a gold mount user, and I use Anton Bauer on my cameras so I don’t have to worry about sudden power loss and data corruption, but for lights and monitors, I have a stack of generic Amazon 150 Wh batteries. They don’t last nearly as long as the more expensive AB batts, but they’re cheap enough to keep a bunch on hand so that I know I’ll make it through a day. The cheap batteries are losing total capacity quickly over time, so I’m thinking about switching to Core to compare against AB.
👍👍👍
I bought the moman version that looks like the ZGCINE and it died after a month. I'm stuck with it and lost $170. Note to self, no more buying Moman. 😢
I reached out to moman and they did everything they can ti help and even sent my money back. With their kindness, I will give them another chance. I might have just gotten a bad batch and decided to scrap that model.
Perez Barbara Taylor Barbara Taylor Amy
You've got a sweet setup! Keep up the great work. New sub👍🏼out here supporting smaller channels like mine!
Thanks, Nenad!! Much appreciated 🙏🏼
Moman are awful....Mine swelled and cracked on first charge...plus no after service...Sent it back registered tracked post as requested for a refund or replacement under 3 Year Warrenty. MAILED AND CALLED MANY TIMES ...NEVER HEARD BACK ! USE IDX , HAWKSWOOD or ANTON BAUER...these are real battery suppliers to the industry. Buy cheap, get cheap service and cheap batteries that would not last a day on a serious shoot.