yo I heard you like water cooling so I water-cooled you a water-cooling loop which is water-cooling the water-cooling loop water-cooling your water-cooling loop
Jay, it looks like the Housing touching the PCB was the issue. NOT the pinched wires. so metal housing grounded a contact point either on the PCB or on the power leads into the PCB and then that touched something somewhere else on the PCB.... a Short on the power input wires would not have damaged the Pump... Electrical theory says: Path of least resistance means the input power to the metal case to the PCB created a melted IC
With regard to your Green dye making the tubes Red: some organic dyes are sensitive to their environment. A green dye may be green when it is in an aqueous environment (water) but may be red when in a hydrophobic environment (like absorbed into the plastic tubing). I work in a lab for instance and we have a common dye that we use for protein gel staining. It is dark red when completely dry or dissolved in oil, but turns bright blue when in water. Just a thought.
It's "tube burn". You see it inside older hot tubs. Hot water flowing against the plastic for long periods of time will cause a dark red/brownish stain. The purple color probably has something to do with the green dye...
If someone's already mentioned this, then ignore me. Pinched wires would not create a short, it creates high resistance or even possibly an open circuit if the wires inside the sheathing were pinched hard enough to cut them . A short would be if the wires were exposed and contacted a surface that's connected to ground or other exposed wires. Either way, love the vids, been out of the pc building game for over a decade and you've helped me get back up to speed on things!
Hopefully he addresses this, because you are correct. Since the wire is stranded as well, the likelihood of it causing an open (aka breaking all the strands) is highly unlikely. (The old pump could have, after many bends back and forth.. the new pump however.. nah..) My guess is that the metal chassis cover itself was shorting to the PCB. Glad someone else pointed this out too. :)
Yeah, definitively not the cables. Hard to tell if the chassis could be shorting the solder points or something on the PCB, but to me it almost looked like fluid damage. I've seen and repaired water pumps (not PC cooling ones) with water damage before, and it looks a lot like that. But that would be weird, if it was water, the blue smoke would have escaped long ago - I'm thinking a short was causing the original problem, and then during disassembly a tiny water droplet made its way onto the PCB and dealt the deathblow. Else it'd been smelling magic smoke all day in that room.
JAY, take a better look at that Housing before you do. the power leads may be making contact at the solider points to the casing this may be the cause of the damage to the electronics. pinched wires that are fully sheathed wont cause an issue IF they have not broken the sheathing.. your issue seems to lie in that metal housing and the contact points that are causing a short.. there may even be a chance of this happening again... if the wires were shorted at that Pinch point, the PSU would have kicked off when it detected a short. Remember: Electricity wants the path of least resistance.
Jayz, here's a really good tip for you if you are wanting custom antifreeze. Get yourself some ethylene glycol (but keep it locked away, seriously...) Ethylene glycol is clear like water, you colour it with dyes as much as you like then you fill it with demineralized/distilled water 60% water to 40% ethylene glycol. If you don't do the mix in that ratio, the ethylene glycol will boil faster than water (it actually does...) Now, be sure to shake, pour and clean up thoroughly, if it's clear, treat it like ethylene glycol and wipe it down with all purpose cleaner. Enjoy your custom antifreeze build
Your comment is a good one and made me look into this further. Water boils at 99.3 °C, Ethylene Glycol at 198 °C. A 1:1 solution of ethylene glycol and water boils at 129 °C. Ethylene glycol is completely miscible with water in all proportions. Therefore, once mixed, the glycol will not separate from the water, ever.
The purple fluid/underglow looks absolutely amazing running through that bench. Glad you were able to figure out the pump situation. RIP: replacement pump. You learn the hard way so we don't have to :P. I'm not a water cooling guy, but years of Jay and I'm a lot more knowledgeable than I was 2 years ago. Thank you for always being transparent about your products, findings, faults, etc. You're humble enough to admit a wrong and thrive to make it right or find a way to fix it. I've always enjoyed that about your videos. Honesty is the best policy, because you know we'll find out otherwise! lol. Thanks again, Jay.
Yeah, the conclusion seems a bit flawed, although there is obvious there was a short when you see the fried electronics. I'm thinking the exposed part of the wire, where it meets the PCB, was touching the casing, which in turn was grounded.
The problem there is not the voltage itself, but the increased current draw to meet the power requirements of the components. If this was the case, there would be even more heat developed at this hypothetical break in the wire.
At times, my experience with fire protection systems involves the use of anti-freeze. When the piping is composed of Cpvc, we MUST use glycerine based antifreeze as opposed to polypropylene glycol.
I love how you grow along with your videos. The end was breathtaking. I was not expecting this level of passion. Deeply appreciate that you take the time and effort to share it with me and all of us that watch your videos. Do what you love to and we will keep enjoying the ride.
@JayzTwoCents Two things 1: Anti-freeze/coolant is more viscous than water. A 50/50 mix might be to hard on the pump. 2: Anti-freeze is very electrically conductive. Much more than water. Thanks, Matt PS - Like the vid!
If at any point you see this Jay, I just want you to know that I love the way you edit your videos. It really adds a lot to them, a lot. Thanks for great content and keep on keeping on my dude.
Coolant shouldn't effect the electronics even if it did escape past the seal as the PCB and components are covered with a conformal coating which protects them.
well, its 50% and 50% water, so it would affect electronics if they werent coated, and maybe the coolant and even the water itself can wear out the coating
Jay, when you swap the impellers over between pumps, you should do a "do what I say not as I do" too. Dropping the impeller onto the bearing can damage them, I learned the hard way they can chip real easily.
Cool video Jay. I love the purple, It's a very similar colour to what I'm running in my rig at the moment. Although I think you should have put the antifreeze back in because I'm interested to see how long it can be in there before it actually does cause some damage.
you're a genius. i have a ddc pump and turned my computer on on monday... heard my fans going nuts and checked my temps. my CPU was up to 55-60c. checked the pump and sure enough, the pump was dead so i ordered a d5 pump the next day. today, i watched your video and thought i'd play around with the wiring and.... voila! thank you sir!!!
NECRONEZUM usually not, They'll more than likely blame you if something goes wrong. Had 4 QD fittings from Koolance completely fail in under 6 months and wouldn't honor it
Yes I have but, with a custom loop you will get better temps so, potentially more headroom for overclocking. Which could be a performance benefit making Arrow's statement not true.
Jay. Just for fun. I have a thermal take water 2.0. The rad spring a leak so I soldered it shut. The loop lost almost all the water and had some growth in it. I replaced the liquid and cleaned everything. It now is running windshield washer fluid. I've gotten better results than with the stock liquid. Funny thing is they smelled the same...
Awesome to see the humble ddc getting some love. I've been using one for years, and it's been a super reliable little trooper. They can punch well above their weight in pressure and are very quiet. The new impeller design is interesting, at first glance it looks like it might be designed to work better with a low restriction top inlet like in this setup, rather than the stock parallel barb configuration.
Jay, I just wanted to give you some love. Your always consistent with your quality, funny, and are informative. Keep up the great work. Wanted to mention the smell of electronics reminds me of cheap pancake syrup that's been sitting out all day. It's this weird sweet smell.
I have no idea why people keep buying those DDC pump heatsinks. What you're trying to achieve is to transfer the heat from the top layer of the PCB(where the hot components are) through 1.5mm of FR4 laminate which has thermal conductivity of around 0.25 W/mK. Any electronics engineer would tell you that this is complete and utter fail and bullshit. If you want to have your pump cool and long lasting just run it at 9V. The start-up voltage is around 8V so 9V is completely fine. It will draw around 5W @ 9V.
Jay, just wanted to compliment you on the B-Roll / Glam Footage. That was shot so well and the music went with it so well. Really loved it. Keep it up man.
You ever thought of being a science teacher? you sound just like one... Like you probably know what's wrong, but just love your job so much that you can tease around what you think for an extended amount of time. And still keep everyone entertained.
i can replace the entire watercooling, including radiator, on my car for less than what pc watercooling costs. straight bullshit monopoly just like intel had over cpu's
Very very true, the problem is these companies sell so little product they have no choice but to rob people price wise. if they sold it for just a slight profit it wouldn't cover the cost of one employee. None of them sell enough stuff compared to other industries.
Nathaniel Smith It was never made for PC watercooling, it is a pump from a German company. They pretty much made it as good as it gets with their performance/silence/power usage for its size so we still use it today
I'm not saying it's not the pinching causing the problem - but it doesn't seem a clever design to have bare solder points so close to a metal case and not have at some Kapton tape on them. Especially on something that has moisture so close by. I wonder if there was direct contact after a ding across the bottom or some condensation, after being put in the garage. It all depends on the clearance. Either way that's one hell of design flaw for the pinching it does do, and having exposed solder points like that.
that little over sight by the builder would kind of piss me off a little. i didnt think it was the pinch part i was looking at the unprotected solder connection touching the bottom corner of the lower housing. i hope there is some kind of warning telling you that the pump is malfunctioning other wise that could have been much worst.
Not sure why jay would think pinching a wire would cause a short. No ones perfect right? Looked like the solder connections on the one he smoked were a little larger. I think that's why the second one actually burned out.
2 notes. 1: Love you have a z, I've got a 280z and 300z. 2: Brother did a clear see through piping for his 68 camaro's coolant system. Over time, the lines turned a redish brown, and then full brown. Not sure what type of lines he used though since it was about 15 years ago.
Quick tip with o-ring seals, grease it. Not crazy like packing a bearing but a bit of light duty grease in the o-ring bed keeps the seal in place and adds a bit of extra sealant. Or silicone sealant
Madalin Patilea I love how this had nothing to do with AMD nor Nvidia yet you say this please stop being a fanboy and enjoy the actual content being provided
Daniel Burgos he is commenting about the colour of the tubing, the liquid is green and Jay said about red regarding the tube being stained. So it was a relevant joke.
Hey Jay I was thinking, if you want to keep that cover. Try filing down the opening to widen it. It'll reduce the pinch point, and or prevent further shorting out.
I ran antifreeze for over 3 years on a thermaltake cheap pump, and it was alright. Just one piece of anecdotal evidence, but just tossing that out there.
+Arek R. if pressure from low clearances is the problem, pray tell, how would adding tape to the area - which increases the physical size of everything - solve the problem?????
because the pinched wires aren't the problem. If the strands broke from pinching they'd just stop working but wouldn't jump through insulation to another wire and short out. The sides of that metal cover aren't insulated. couple that with the stupid amount of insulation missing off the wires at the solder point and you get shorting to the case via exposed wires. Adding tape to the exposed wires or case would insulate and stop shorting.
Hey Jay, I know this video is a bit old now but I just got a chance to watch it. I have ran DDC's in my setup for a long time and I have had major issues with them all D5's included. However, I know what your issue was to your pump problem. I had them exact same thing happen to me a few times. What happens is is if you use certain coolants (your antifreeze would do this too I'd guess) the inside of the rotor where it makes contact on the ceramic ball gets a buildup of hard crusty stuff on it and basically seizes the rotor up and it won't spin. The pump doesn't have enough power to start. It will do what yours did and try to spin up but can't due to the aforementioned problem. I take a small pick and a bright light and turn the rotor upside down and scrape the junk out of the inside where the plastic sits on the ceramic ball. If you would have looked my guess is you'd have saw exactly what I am talking about. Once I do this I clean it good with alcohol and Q-tip. reassemble and mine work flawless every time. I have to do this it seems whenever I run different coolants. I ran ThermalTake's shitty coolant once and it did this really bad. Even happened with Mayhem's. However, I've been running Primochill's new concentrate and I have yet to have an issue. I guess I should also mention my pumps run 24/7 and are powered by my 2 Aquaero 6XT's. Hope this helped you out man. Rock on with the Vid's! PS. I have a couple pics of the inside of my rotor's before cleaning if your interested
there's no short in your pump. aquarium pumps work the same way, just blades on a magnet that spin when it has power. I've notice my pumps stop pumping water, i take out the pump while it's still connected, tap the blades and it's starts spinning again. doesn't take much to keep it from spinning, just need to tap it to get it back on the sweet spot of the magnetic cycle. Your second pump looks toasty......... Fan of the channel. Thanks for the great information and recommendations you've given
a lot of people see a question in the title as clickbate, I believe this stems form them noticing the link between questions and open ended statements and clickbate videos/articles and somewhere along the lines they come to the conclusion that all title with questions are clickbate
Jay, I ran Rhogard boiler antifreeze in my last custom loop. It actually worked really well. I had it in it for over a year with no sludge build up. It had aluminum core so this was my best choice. This was on an old Q6600, EVGA 680 MB with 3 way EVGA 8800 Ultra's.
Some of the old Cray supercomputers used to be filled with flourinert, a nonconductive clear liquid. There was even a "waterfall" in the middle of them. My jaw dropped when I first walked into the computer room at Lawrence Livermore and I saw the waterfall in the middle of the computer. It dropped even further when I saw that the entire interior of the Cray, which was covered in clear plastic, was also full of the fluid.
Awesome video Jay. I really like these where you diagnose a problem and do some teaching, thanks. Also I really appreciate not having to toast my gear and instead let you go first into the breach in the name of curiosity!
Kinda related, Jay. I have a DDC pump. For some reason one day it stopped working on system power up. If I gave the pump a hard tap/"shocked" it, it would then start pumping. I took it apart, saw nothing wrong, re-assembled, and it's been fine ever since lol
Jay, I actually ran into almost this exact problem once. I fried a DDC pump I had due to my own negligence, so I ordered a replacement PCB for it from Hong Kong. Soldered everything up, it worked great until I added the PWM circuit to it, at which point the Alphacool housing shorted something out and fried my second circuit board lol. I have D5 and Jingway pumps in my rigs now...
Hey Jayz I think another reason they say not to use glycol base coolants is because most auto coolants are silicated (for aluminum radiators to help abraide corrosion on them).
As for the antifreeze debate, I built my first water cooled system when Age of Conan came out. When I asked the tech guy about the coolant, he told me then it was just 50% distilled water and 50% antifreeze, I have been using it ever since. 5 years ago I rebuilt the system using the same cooling system save the reservoir, as I cracked the old one by over tightening a fitting. It still has the pump CPU block, radiator and lines with no signs of degradation.
Ah man I was all like AOI 280 now after this as my current build is Purple and Red you've got me hooked on full water man! Your a terrible and awesome influence! God damn it!
Your all good with the rubber o-rings. Engine coolant runs through rubber hoses in every automobile ever manufactured. And their reservoirs are made of plastic too, although probably not glychol based. One thing I would recommend. Automobiles have very powerful pumps that move the engine coolant, where as your little, tiny pump is hardly a fraction of the power. Even a 50/50 mixture of coolant is kinda thick. I would recommend thinning that mixture down as well, say 25% coolant, 75% water. Also, I believe there are some engine coolant additives that do not contain glychol. Just check out all the stuff on the shelf and research the ingredients if they're not listed.....cheers!
Jay, the tubes turn purple due to the way light works. Just like RGB lights, actualy light is RGB. By using green fluid, it filters out and captures the green light, so only RB light is hitting the tubes. Red and blue make purple.
this is a test bench and it is great he spotted it early. if you using a custom loop liquid cooling on a desktop and running long hours, it is safer to have 2 pumps or a dual pump.
Might be too little to late.... but I don't think the pinching is the problem. You might be making a short with the 4 or 3 wires on the metal case. 5:34 you can see the solder has some oxidation dots on the bottom. 7:53 you can see that the solder is touching the table. with the plastic cover or out no problem. When you skrew in everything and tighten things up it might just be enough to touch
And if you are fearing that the o-rings would fail if you used anti-freeze, order Viton o-rings, they can handle the anti-freeze without problem, only hting to get those die is the dyes with organic citrics in them.
Yup ran into the same problem on industrial applications with wiring harnesses. Rubber hose guards become your friend. Also I want stuffs on shelves!!!
I kind of want to build a replica of that little Nano S build you've got in the background. That things is pretty much my favorite build floating around the UA-cams
Jay go to harbor freight and get some coolant hose clamps. You can clamp off the in and out lines and only have to drain the reservoir if you have issues like this again. Also works on cars quite well to.
Be sure to stay until the end for some sexy PC shots!
JayzTwoCents I win
JayzTwoCents I'm not first but I'm quite wealthy so I win
Whooo the fooooooooooooooooooooooooock is this guy?
You're not my real dad!
Won't lose anything if you do.
Watercooling pumps getting hot? Just watercool them...
P - The P is Silent I know this comment is a joke and quirky but that's what pumps actually do. they dump heat into the loop.
yo I heard you like water cooling so I water-cooled you a water-cooling loop which is water-cooling the water-cooling loop water-cooling your water-cooling loop
for that setup to work properly you need to n2o cool the whole loop!
You need to watercool the water
but whats going to cool the water-cooling loop
Jay, it looks like the Housing touching the PCB was the issue. NOT the pinched wires. so metal housing grounded a contact point either on the PCB or on the power leads into the PCB and then that touched something somewhere else on the PCB.... a Short on the power input wires would not have damaged the Pump... Electrical theory says: Path of least resistance means the input power to the metal case to the PCB created a melted IC
With regard to your Green dye making the tubes Red: some organic dyes are sensitive to their environment. A green dye may be green when it is in an aqueous environment (water) but may be red when in a hydrophobic environment (like absorbed into the plastic tubing). I work in a lab for instance and we have a common dye that we use for protein gel staining. It is dark red when completely dry or dissolved in oil, but turns bright blue when in water. Just a thought.
was hoping someone would offer an answer on that. thank you.
Fierce grape gatorade... made your poo neon green... lol
It's "tube burn". You see it inside older hot tubs. Hot water flowing against the plastic for long periods of time will cause a dark red/brownish stain. The purple color probably has something to do with the green dye...
"I guess I just like punishment", Fifty shades of Jay confirmed
You watched that shit for girls?
Arek R. Z77zzmzznjzzizoi
the hell is that supposed to mean?
Someone's insecure
For girls? how is it for girls? It's a book and a movie, it's not gender specific. Insecure much?
If someone's already mentioned this, then ignore me. Pinched wires would not create a short, it creates high resistance or even possibly an open circuit if the wires inside the sheathing were pinched hard enough to cut them . A short would be if the wires were exposed and contacted a surface that's connected to ground or other exposed wires. Either way, love the vids, been out of the pc building game for over a decade and you've helped me get back up to speed on things!
Hopefully he addresses this, because you are correct. Since the wire is stranded as well, the likelihood of it causing an open (aka breaking all the strands) is highly unlikely. (The old pump could have, after many bends back and forth.. the new pump however.. nah..)
My guess is that the metal chassis cover itself was shorting to the PCB.
Glad someone else pointed this out too. :)
Yeah, definitively not the cables. Hard to tell if the chassis could be shorting the solder points or something on the PCB, but to me it almost looked like fluid damage. I've seen and repaired water pumps (not PC cooling ones) with water damage before, and it looks a lot like that. But that would be weird, if it was water, the blue smoke would have escaped long ago - I'm thinking a short was causing the original problem, and then during disassembly a tiny water droplet made its way onto the PCB and dealt the deathblow. Else it'd been smelling magic smoke all day in that room.
Jay why not grab a dremmel or file and make the opening bigger to release the pressure on the wires?
I actually did that on the plastic one, but I will do that on the metal one and reuse it later. Just didnt have the right size bit.
JayzTwoCents gotcha .... this video was very insightful though. I always love getting that notification of a new upload from any of my Cali tubers.
I'm surprised they didnt have a rubber grommet to fit that section where the wires are supposed to go.
Was about to post the same reply till I read yours...
"Fortunately I have a ton of these pumps laying around" damn that hurts...
JAY, take a better look at that Housing before you do. the power leads may be making contact at the solider points to the casing this may be the cause of the damage to the electronics. pinched wires that are fully sheathed wont cause an issue IF they have not broken the sheathing.. your issue seems to lie in that metal housing and the contact points that are causing a short.. there may even be a chance of this happening again... if the wires were shorted at that Pinch point, the PSU would have kicked off when it detected a short. Remember: Electricity wants the path of least resistance.
Jayz, here's a really good tip for you if you are wanting custom antifreeze.
Get yourself some ethylene glycol (but keep it locked away, seriously...)
Ethylene glycol is clear like water, you colour it with dyes as much as you like then you fill it with demineralized/distilled water 60% water to 40% ethylene glycol.
If you don't do the mix in that ratio, the ethylene glycol will boil faster than water (it actually does...)
Now, be sure to shake, pour and clean up thoroughly, if it's clear, treat it like ethylene glycol and wipe it down with all purpose cleaner.
Enjoy your custom antifreeze build
Your comment is a good one and made me look into this further. Water boils at 99.3 °C, Ethylene Glycol at 198 °C. A 1:1 solution of ethylene glycol and water boils at 129 °C. Ethylene glycol is completely miscible with water in all proportions. Therefore, once mixed, the glycol will not separate from the water, ever.
All these GPUs and MOBOs in the background :(
Thats only some of them. When you run a PC tech company, you tend to get a lot of inventory for videos/builds etc.
cant wait for the fire sale! lol
Any chance there might be a sale on some of those?
LOL i knew a comment was gona show up like this.
Some many, yet no 4k vids :(
The purple fluid/underglow looks absolutely amazing running through that bench. Glad you were able to figure out the pump situation. RIP: replacement pump. You learn the hard way so we don't have to :P. I'm not a water cooling guy, but years of Jay and I'm a lot more knowledgeable than I was 2 years ago. Thank you for always being transparent about your products, findings, faults, etc. You're humble enough to admit a wrong and thrive to make it right or find a way to fix it. I've always enjoyed that about your videos. Honesty is the best policy, because you know we'll find out otherwise! lol. Thanks again, Jay.
Uh, how would that cause a short when the wire insulation wasn't punctured?
Yeah, the conclusion seems a bit flawed, although there is obvious there was a short when you see the fried electronics. I'm thinking the exposed part of the wire, where it meets the PCB, was touching the casing, which in turn was grounded.
+Jim C K Flaten That was my thinking as well
That would cause heat at the break, not burn out an internal component.
Not true Jim C K Flaten, Super low voltage can indeed damage components.
The problem there is not the voltage itself, but the increased current draw to meet the power requirements of the components. If this was the case, there would be even more heat developed at this hypothetical break in the wire.
At times, my experience with fire protection systems involves the use of anti-freeze. When the piping is composed of Cpvc, we MUST use glycerine based antifreeze as opposed to polypropylene glycol.
Ryzen chip review on Friday??
I was thinking the same thing! Why else would he mention a product for Friday
MrJimmyBanks It can't be THAT close.
Feb. 28 is what people are saying.
Why would he need his bench working for a Ryzen chip? At that point, wouldn't he build a separate test system like the one he did for the 7700K?
EVGA FTW2 and SC2 1070 and 1080 is my guess.
I love how you grow along with your videos. The end was breathtaking. I was not expecting this level of passion. Deeply appreciate that you take the time and effort to share it with me and all of us that watch your videos. Do what you love to and we will keep enjoying the ride.
That B-Roll tho..... That slider does wonders!!!!
@JayzTwoCents Two things 1: Anti-freeze/coolant is more viscous than water. A 50/50 mix might be to hard on the pump. 2: Anti-freeze is very electrically conductive. Much more than water.
Thanks,
Matt
PS - Like the vid!
"Dammit my pump died... Alright I guess I'll have to use one of the other 30 Pcs I have laying around." - Jay
Dremel the gap wider and put a non conductive thermal pad on the bottom the solder points could be shorting out on the metal.
I saw your tweet. I have been waiting for almost an hour for you to upload.
You dont have life xD
Someone here has a life?
If at any point you see this Jay, I just want you to know that I love the way you edit your videos. It really adds a lot to them, a lot. Thanks for great content and keep on keeping on my dude.
really loving the purple theme.
And b-rolls from now on are going to be so awesome
Those B-roll shots man gave me legitimate goosebumps I love where this channel is headed keep up the awesome work man :)
Coolant shouldn't effect the electronics even if it did escape past the seal as the PCB and components are covered with a conformal coating which protects them.
well, its 50% and 50% water, so it would affect electronics if they werent coated, and maybe the coolant and even the water itself can wear out the coating
Jay, when you swap the impellers over between pumps, you should do a "do what I say not as I do" too. Dropping the impeller onto the bearing can damage them, I learned the hard way they can chip real easily.
Cool video Jay. I love the purple, It's a very similar colour to what I'm running in my rig at the moment. Although I think you should have put the antifreeze back in because I'm interested to see how long it can be in there before it actually does cause some damage.
i agree but he is prejudice against it and looks like a stubborn person in general. lost apportunity indeed
you're a genius. i have a ddc pump and turned my computer on on monday... heard my fans going nuts and checked my temps. my CPU was up to 55-60c. checked the pump and sure enough, the pump was dead so i ordered a d5 pump the next day. today, i watched your video and thought i'd play around with the wiring and.... voila! thank you sir!!!
UA-cam IS BROKEN
UA-cam nooooooooo
MrBlackScreen nooooooooo
UA-cam is always broken.
+Aimela
took the words out of my mouth.
They probably used anti-freeze...
Honest question, why do you use the ddc instead of the d5?
That's why I'm scared to do a custom water loop. Do we at least have warranty if something like this happens?
NECRONEZUM usually not, They'll more than likely blame you if something goes wrong. Had 4 QD fittings from Koolance completely fail in under 6 months and wouldn't honor it
Arrow I know some people like to lower the rpm of the pump to lower the noise of it.
Arrow ever heard of overclocking?
Link_Jumper Ever heard of beefy air coolers or AIO liquid coolers...
Yes I have but, with a custom loop you will get better temps so, potentially more headroom for overclocking. Which could be a performance benefit making Arrow's statement not true.
Jay. Just for fun. I have a thermal take water 2.0. The rad spring a leak so I soldered it shut. The loop lost almost all the water and had some growth in it. I replaced the liquid and cleaned everything. It now is running windshield washer fluid. I've gotten better results than with the stock liquid. Funny thing is they smelled the same...
When he says "things are never perfect" and you know it's true but you see the Maximus 9 formula in the background and you just WANT IT.
Awesome to see the humble ddc getting some love. I've been using one for years, and it's been a super reliable little trooper. They can punch well above their weight in pressure and are very quiet. The new impeller design is interesting, at first glance it looks like it might be designed to work better with a low restriction top inlet like in this setup, rather than the stock parallel barb configuration.
That impeller looks a lot like the one on a D5, with the shrouded "top" surface.
Hey Jay, why not just use a dremel or a file to increase the clearance on the metal cover for the wires?
He is PC guy so he has two left hands xD
Jay, I just wanted to give you some love. Your always consistent with your quality, funny, and are informative. Keep up the great work. Wanted to mention the smell of electronics reminds me of cheap pancake syrup that's been sitting out all day. It's this weird sweet smell.
I have no idea why people keep buying those DDC pump heatsinks. What you're trying to achieve is to transfer the heat from the top layer of the PCB(where the hot components are) through 1.5mm of FR4 laminate which has thermal conductivity of around 0.25 W/mK. Any electronics engineer would tell you that this is complete and utter fail and bullshit. If you want to have your pump cool and long lasting just run it at 9V. The start-up voltage is around 8V so 9V is completely fine. It will draw around 5W @ 9V.
This.
better yet let the PCB and components breathe by making some air holes in the casing
Jay, just wanted to compliment you on the B-Roll / Glam Footage. That was shot so well and the music went with it so well. Really loved it. Keep it up man.
Water cooling with milk. Yum
Jay that was literally the best B roll I have ever seen on a tech channel!! Keep up the Great Work!!
He has more graphics cards on that shelf than I have shoes...
You ever thought of being a science teacher? you sound just like one... Like you probably know what's wrong, but just love your job so much that you can tease around what you think for an extended amount of time. And still keep everyone entertained.
You know for a fact these devices take about $5-10 to manufacture.
WOPPER or less
WOPPER less
All watercooling shit is vastly overpriced. Companies like EK are committing highway robbery.
i can replace the entire watercooling, including radiator, on my car for less than what pc watercooling costs. straight bullshit monopoly just like intel had over cpu's
Very very true, the problem is these companies sell so little product they have no choice but to rob people price wise. if they sold it for just a slight profit it wouldn't cover the cost of one employee. None of them sell enough stuff compared to other industries.
Not watched these videos in a while. Loving the new video quality and the faster pace of presenting.
D5 FTW. Have 3 running 24/7. 11 years old, 7 years old, 6 years old.
Nathaniel Smith It was never made for PC watercooling, it is a pump from a German company. They pretty much made it as good as it gets with their performance/silence/power usage for its size so we still use it today
is the metal case plastic on the inside. because if not maybe one of the traces or solder joints is shorting on the metal case.
That's why I just stick to a high quality air cooler, the only point of failure is the fan and is usually very easy to replace.
.. not to mention you still have a good deal of heat capacity, even if the fan dies. Not so hard on equipment that relies on it.
Just as easy to replace as a pump with a dodgy housing
How much cooling does a dead pump offer, compared to an air cooler with a dead fan? : |
John Dowty a normal disipator does not work as a passive dissipator, the same as a dead pump.
That B-Roll sequence at the end was fantastic, really nice work Jay!
Did I miss the Terry Crews video
David what is it titled
no he hasnt done it yet
I'm not saying it's not the pinching causing the problem - but it doesn't seem a clever design to have bare solder points so close to a metal case and not have at some Kapton tape on them. Especially on something that has moisture so close by. I wonder if there was direct contact after a ding across the bottom or some condensation, after being put in the garage. It all depends on the clearance. Either way that's one hell of design flaw for the pinching it does do, and having exposed solder points like that.
First 65 or Older -- Thanks
Music selection for B roll is the best... that adds to the beauty... nice choice n nice shots
that little over sight by the builder would kind of piss me off a little. i didnt think it was the pinch part i was looking at the unprotected solder connection touching the bottom corner of the lower housing. i hope there is some kind of warning telling you that the pump is malfunctioning other wise that could have been much worst.
I agree with your diagnosis. The pinch wouldn't short unless it bares the wire. The housing was likely shorting to the PCB/solder points.
this is the correct answer
Not sure why jay would think pinching a wire would cause a short. No ones perfect right?
Looked like the solder connections on the one he smoked were a little larger. I think that's why the second one actually burned out.
2 notes.
1: Love you have a z, I've got a 280z and 300z.
2: Brother did a clear see through piping for his 68 camaro's coolant system. Over time, the lines turned a redish brown, and then full brown. Not sure what type of lines he used though since it was about 15 years ago.
dude even your testbench looks bettet than my whole setup lmao😢😂
Quick tip with o-ring seals, grease it. Not crazy like packing a bearing but a bit of light duty grease in the o-ring bed keeps the seal in place and adds a bit of extra sealant. Or silicone sealant
I've been running antifreeze in mine for couple years, My loop tops out at 10c on a long point of gaming.
Video production Quality.. "GOD LEVEL" !!!!!!
AMD TEAM RED is taking over Nvidia Green
Madalin Patilea I love how this had nothing to do with AMD nor Nvidia yet you say this please stop being a fanboy and enjoy the actual content being provided
Daniel Burgos he is commenting about the colour of the tubing, the liquid is green and Jay said about red regarding the tube being stained. So it was a relevant joke.
Daniel Burgos it was a jo
Madalin Patilea nah they make cheaply made, overly hot cards that do nothing more than nvidia cards do
Draganox Plays
Lol aftermarket ones dont get hot but reference is the one your thinking
Hey Jay I was thinking, if you want to keep that cover. Try filing down the opening to widen it. It'll reduce the pinch point, and or prevent further shorting out.
I ran antifreeze for over 3 years on a thermaltake cheap pump, and it was alright. Just one piece of anecdotal evidence, but just tossing that out there.
That purple mix looks just totally awesome.. I also must say great choice in background music too..
2 minutes with a rotary tool, problem solved.
Or small piece of capton tape.
+Arek R.
if pressure from low clearances is the problem, pray tell, how would adding tape to the area - which increases the physical size of everything - solve the problem?????
because the pinched wires aren't the problem. If the strands broke from pinching they'd just stop working but wouldn't jump through insulation to another wire and short out. The sides of that metal cover aren't insulated. couple that with the stupid amount of insulation missing off the wires at the solder point and you get shorting to the case via exposed wires. Adding tape to the exposed wires or case would insulate and stop shorting.
Alex Jennings the exposed ends could be the cause, but if the issue is around the pinched region, more material isn't going to help.
The problem is that wires are shorted by metal case and adding hard insulating tape would protect from shorting the wires.
Now that tune at the end of the video will be in my head for a week. Thanks Jay.
Be sure to stay until the end for some sexy PC shots!
*puts ads at the end*
Hey Jay,
I know this video is a bit old now but I just got a chance to watch it. I have ran DDC's in my setup for a long time and I have had major issues with them all D5's included. However, I know what your issue was to your pump problem. I had them exact same thing happen to me a few times. What happens is is if you use certain coolants (your antifreeze would do this too I'd guess) the inside of the rotor where it makes contact on the ceramic ball gets a buildup of hard crusty stuff on it and basically seizes the rotor up and it won't spin. The pump doesn't have enough power to start. It will do what yours did and try to spin up but can't due to the aforementioned problem. I take a small pick and a bright light and turn the rotor upside down and scrape the junk out of the inside where the plastic sits on the ceramic ball. If you would have looked my guess is you'd have saw exactly what I am talking about. Once I do this I clean it good with alcohol and Q-tip. reassemble and mine work flawless every time. I have to do this it seems whenever I run different coolants. I ran ThermalTake's shitty coolant once and it did this really bad. Even happened with Mayhem's. However, I've been running Primochill's new concentrate and I have yet to have an issue. I guess I should also mention my pumps run 24/7 and are powered by my 2 Aquaero 6XT's. Hope this helped you out man. Rock on with the Vid's!
PS. I have a couple pics of the inside of my rotor's before cleaning if your interested
Use Poop as thermal Paste
there's no short in your pump. aquarium pumps work the same way, just blades on a magnet that spin when it has power. I've notice my pumps stop pumping water, i take out the pump while it's still connected, tap the blades and it's starts spinning again. doesn't take much to keep it from spinning, just need to tap it to get it back on the sweet spot of the magnetic cycle. Your second pump looks toasty......... Fan of the channel. Thanks for the great information and recommendations you've given
Jay I really respect you as UA-camr and tech genius but the clickbate titles are just beneath you... just my opinion
This title isnt clickbait at all.
***** Well it just seems like it to me I guess, but hey, I enjoyed the video either way!
Ali Abbas Two quite contradictory statements.
a lot of people see a question in the title as clickbate, I believe this stems form them noticing the link between questions and open ended statements and clickbate videos/articles and somewhere along the lines they come to the conclusion that all title with questions are clickbate
Jay, I ran Rhogard boiler antifreeze in my last custom loop. It actually worked really well. I had it in it for over a year with no sludge build up. It had aluminum core so this was my best choice. This was on an old Q6600, EVGA 680 MB with 3 way EVGA 8800 Ultra's.
Dat B-Roll is just plain epic!
Nice video Jay! That B-roll was very nice looks like your enjoying that new slider!
Some of the old Cray supercomputers used to be filled with flourinert, a nonconductive clear liquid. There was even a "waterfall" in the middle of them. My jaw dropped when I first walked into the computer room at Lawrence Livermore and I saw the waterfall in the middle of the computer. It dropped even further when I saw that the entire interior of the Cray, which was covered in clear plastic, was also full of the fluid.
That purple looks SICK. You should put a light on the reservoir though, it looks a lot darker compared to the tubing ;)
Awesome video Jay. I really like these where you diagnose a problem and do some teaching, thanks. Also I really appreciate not having to toast my gear and instead let you go first into the breach in the name of curiosity!
Kinda related, Jay. I have a DDC pump. For some reason one day it stopped working on system power up. If I gave the pump a hard tap/"shocked" it, it would then start pumping. I took it apart, saw nothing wrong, re-assembled, and it's been fine ever since lol
Just realized your getting close to that 1Mil subs mark! Awesome!
Love the vid Jay! Some epic shots with your new slider at end there!
Keep up the good work.
Thank you for maintaining an open mind in testing the antifreeze
Jay, I actually ran into almost this exact problem once. I fried a DDC pump I had due to my own negligence, so I ordered a replacement PCB for it from Hong Kong. Soldered everything up, it worked great until I added the PWM circuit to it, at which point the Alphacool housing shorted something out and fried my second circuit board lol. I have D5 and Jingway pumps in my rigs now...
No doubt, the whole Setup with pink/purple looks amazing.
Hey Jayz I think another reason they say not to use glycol base coolants is because most auto coolants are silicated (for aluminum radiators to help abraide corrosion on them).
The combination of white and pinkish looks really good :) Those slide shots are nice as well. Looking for next videos :)
As for the antifreeze debate, I built my first water cooled system when Age of Conan came out. When I asked the tech guy about the coolant, he told me then it was just 50% distilled water and 50% antifreeze, I have been using it ever since.
5 years ago I rebuilt the system using the same cooling system save the reservoir, as I cracked the old one by over tightening a fitting. It still has the pump CPU block, radiator and lines with no signs of degradation.
Ah man I was all like AOI 280 now after this as my current build is Purple and Red you've got me hooked on full water man! Your a terrible and awesome influence! God damn it!
Your all good with the rubber o-rings. Engine coolant runs through rubber hoses in every automobile ever manufactured. And their reservoirs are made of plastic too, although probably not glychol based. One thing I would recommend. Automobiles have very powerful pumps that move the engine coolant, where as your little, tiny pump is hardly a fraction of the power. Even a 50/50 mixture of coolant is kinda thick. I would recommend thinning that mixture down as well, say 25% coolant, 75% water. Also, I believe there are some engine coolant additives that do not contain glychol. Just check out all the stuff on the shelf and research the ingredients if they're not listed.....cheers!
Jay, the tubes turn purple due to the way light works. Just like RGB lights, actualy light is RGB. By using green fluid, it filters out and captures the green light, so only RB light is hitting the tubes. Red and blue make purple.
Holy smokes....that b-roll is amazing
this is a test bench and it is great he spotted it early.
if you using a custom loop liquid cooling on a desktop and running long hours, it is safer to have 2 pumps or a dual pump.
that's a sick looking setup you got there ... damn, great job ... purple tones work well with almost anything !
Glorious 60fps Jay
This is really was a cool video Jay! And informative!
This Is my 4th year i have been watching your videos .. I have never been so loyal to any youtuber that much but no regret..
Might be too little to late.... but I don't think the pinching is the problem. You might be making a short with the 4 or 3 wires on the metal case. 5:34 you can see the solder has some oxidation dots on the bottom. 7:53 you can see that the solder is touching the table. with the plastic cover or out no problem. When you skrew in everything and tighten things up it might just be enough to touch
And if you are fearing that the o-rings would fail if you used anti-freeze, order Viton o-rings, they can handle the anti-freeze without problem, only hting to get those die is the dyes with organic citrics in them.
Yup ran into the same problem on industrial applications with wiring harnesses. Rubber hose guards become your friend.
Also I want stuffs on shelves!!!
Loving the new B Roll shots.
That's cool about the pumps and all but I just wanna say I'm loving the new purple on the wetbench.
Love the new purple color, makes me want to do a purple build now
I kind of want to build a replica of that little Nano S build you've got in the background. That things is pretty much my favorite build floating around the UA-cams
Jay go to harbor freight and get some coolant hose clamps. You can clamp off the in and out lines and only have to drain the reservoir if you have issues like this again. Also works on cars quite well to.
Awesome glamor shots. They went well with the music too :)