-Join our updates list for an email strictly from us for new videos, articles, products and website features! www.acservicetech.com Mini Split Book on Our Website- www.acservicetech.com/mini-split-book Mini Split Book on Amazon- amzn.to/3ytHJSs Mini Split Book on TruTech Tools- www.trutechtools.com/BooksGuides Mini Split E-Book on Google- play.google.com/store/books/details?id=HN-iEAAAQBAJ Mini Split E-Book on Apple- books.apple.com/us/book/id6445178399
Hi Craig! Love your videos! AMANA furnace with a B1 code (module not communicating with blower motor) emerson aa25650l variable speed. Meter reading from R-W is 0.04V at the control board and the rest of Tstat wires are 27V. Do you know what could be the problem? Thanks very much!
Hi I just had A unit where we put all new wiring box / outlet then change the capacitor but end up with no running fan after ordering a motor fan condencer got it changed the fan started working but the house isn't sending a cool air in the house ?? So I'm afraid there's a problem with a bad compressor or just cuz of the hot weather that I need to hose it down with water then cool it off then try it works? I wish I could get some guidance from anyone here that faces similar problems? Thank you
Great video!! Suggestions and beyond ; 1. If the IOL is stuck open and it shouldn't be (Cold compressor etc), try hitting it with a 2x4 to unstick it temporarily until the repair/replacement can me made. Sometimes a sudden shock will get it to close. Sounds unprofessional, but if you get it going for the weekend, you're a hero! 2. After turning off the power to the outdoor unit, push the contactor fully in- to make sure the power is off and to bleed the capacitors at the same time so you don't get bit. Check as well with the meter to make sure power is off. 3. If nothing is running outside and it should be, don't be fooled. A bad duel capacitor can cause the compressor and the motor both to overheat and shut down. 4. Plastic forceps come in handy for quick connecting a temp wire or meter to another wire or capacitor for testing. 5. Always test a grounded compressor at the compressor itself, the wiring to the compressor may be shorted to ground (Made that mistake one cold day covered in snow- but only once) lol 6. A float drain switch in the main drain can flicker the low voltage on and off quickly causing chatter at the outdoor contactor and also cause the scroll compressor to run backwards resulting in a no cooling situation and a noisy compressor complaint. Install a time delay relay in the circuit and set it for one minute minimum. 7. Always verify your meter is working by testing it on live voltage first! Assuming the power is off because you don't read voltage just might mean your meter just quit working. I've enjoyed HVAC work for over 48 years and I still love it!
Hands down the best teacher and UA-cam channel on here. For someone who likes troubleshooting and fixing their own equipment these videos are incredible.
When the shaft seal is puking out oil and refrigerant, the compressor sounds like a bunch of marbles when you try to run it, and there's metal paste in the discharge line, I assumed it meant the compressor was shot, good thing this video exists to make me reconsider.
I've been messing with a Honda generator and it's gen Head. I kinda, sorta see some similarities between the two. Then again the extent of my voltage meter experience is the continuity setting on my volt meter. Great channel by the way.
This tutorial very useful. But that's part of compressor checking. That's electrical checking only. What if the compressor is seized. Or weak. One of the best solutions checking mechanical functionality would. Be pump down the unit to see if it pumps down correctly or not. On the other hand all inverter units have same winding resistance as the inverter controls the load of compressor by increasing and decreasing the Amp and volt rather than winding. Big like to all your efforts during last couple of years. Appreciable
If you get OL between any terminals, common to run, run to start, start to common, you’ll get OL on your meter. That’s means the winding is open. It’s possible to just have one of the 3 open, 2 of 3 open or all 3 open. If the compressor is severely overheated the windings will be open until the internal overload resets. You can cool the compressor off with cold water or ice. A lot of times you’ll hear the internal overload reset, it’s a mechanical “click” noise. If you check any terminal to ground (any terminal to copper ref line works best) you’ll get continuity or a “beep.” If you get a beep on any that compressor is dead. On a 3 phase compressor all resistance (ohms) from terminal to terminal are EQUAL. On a single phase compressor common to run and common to start=start to run….run to start is the LARGEST RESISTANCE VALUE, common to run is the LOWEST RESISTANCE VALUE.
Hi Craig my situation is same like you mentioned Compressor, , Start - to run 2.9k ohm, and common - to start =OL, and common - to run = OL OPEN, And I haven't turn on ac for days even crazy hot weather too, is there anyway I can fix it??? And I also check , common - to ground green =OL, Run - to ground 39k ohm + and meter ohm keep on increasing, and Start - to ground 39k ohm+ meter keep increasing???is there way to fix or I have to replace a 5 months brandnew compressor?? Thank you for your help and your time
The contact is pulled in, but the compressor nor fan start. Got readings for compressor wires and terminals, but one wire from condenser fan had no reading. Will dead fan motor prohibit compressor from starting? 1996 Goodman 3 phase condenser unit.
Im working on a unit rn with compressor windings that are good but it doesn't start. I tried that grounding test and that's what it was. Im so grateful you made this video lol
Not all failures are burnouts. There are 3 types of Compressor failures opens, shorts and burn outs. A standard VOM may not find a high impedance short to ground a merger maybe required. I’m a HVAC&R service tech with 40+ years of experience.
Generally shorts to ground are not a burnouts or have significant amounts of acid in the system. A burnout will generate acid from insignificant to severe and often create sludge if any doubt use an acid test kit. At a minimum a high capacity liquid line dryer should be installed when changing a compressor and the refrigerant should always be changed.
So basically if the compressor is off on overload it would read OL between windings? And if it’s shorted to ground you would get continuity(tone) from the shorted winding to ground ?
We just had our compressor fail after 2 years of service. Its a mr cool universal heat pump DIY install. We had an authorized MR Cool tech come out and diagnose it and covered its replacement but I'm worried maybe we wrong during the install. The Tech was super impressed with our work and said everything looks great but I'm worried. The compressor sits on ground level outside the house and the AHU is in the basement maybe 4-5' drop in grade. When we installed the line set we didn't install any oil return bends just kept it as straight as possible hanging them basement ceiling. Having a hard time researching oil return bends not a lot of quality information on it. I'm just worried if we replace the outside unit we would potentially be in the same spot in 2 years if we install it the same way. BTW your videos are awesome!!
Great video. What is it that is causing the ac breaker trip frequently? Checked all the electrical of the condenser unit and all seems to be good. The capacitor is new the fan motor has no issues the contactor looks good. Could it be the compressor causing it? If so how to diagnose and fix? Thanks.
Check the circuit breaker itself...Make sure that ac breaker it not warming up or hot when you start/running the compressor, check the temp of the circuit breaker-using HVAC infrared thermometer...Also, With your HVAC clamp on ammeter, check the Starting Load Current SLA and Running Load Current RLA...
@@thembones12 Thanks for the reply. Just for your information, it was the compressor. It was overloaded with Freon. Overcharged with the Freon. Recovery of the freon did the trick. The breaker has not tripped since then. Thanks.
Finally someone who knows how and when to use a megger. I have three AMEC megohmmeters, crank style. It is the proper tool for checking the condition of the insulation on the windings to ground. If a system has moisture or contaminants in the oil, it will fail a megger test.
Smelling the refrigerant works too. Spraying just a little of bit of refrigerant in your hand and if its smell like burnout tells you that you have a burnout compressor as well. That's just another easy way to identify a burnout compressor.
The oil will also be black. Or darkened. It does have a terrible smell when it burns out or I have seen a ton of foam which indicates liquid migrating to the compressor oil and sludging it
Is it a failed compressor if the compressor is pulling double LRA even after installing a hard start kit but the windings have continuity? Compressor isn’t tripping the circuit breaker either
Yes that would be a failed compressor if it is mechanically locked up like that. Sometimes you can give it a bump and it will free up but that's a stop gap solution
@@acservicetechchannel Good day Sir First of all sorry to how can i speak English but i hope you understand... What are the possible problems to compress Air dryer with alarm overload and everytime i turn on the breaker it always tripping (3 phase)
Hello Craig, which of your books would be best to learn the fundamentals of hvac split and troubleshooting methods? Am trying to save costs by DIY as much as I possibly can. Thanks.
That means we are looking a variations in current related to different resistance, or the resistance and current are inversely proportional. As the resistance goes down the current goes up !
I have a Copeland that is 23 years old. Just have R22 with 30psi on the low side. I charged it up to 60 psi a few weeks ago. My current problem. No leaks found yet...
I do enjoy your videos, great job there, but I do I have a question. I have a heatpump ( portable ac) and it is kinda noicy and I did some research on that and I learnt about using something called ac compressor blanket which wraps the compressor completely to insolate the noise it produces, can I use that on my portable ac compressor? If yes can I make a homemade cushion ac blanket and use that instead? What is your advice, please let me know. Thanks👍
During startup the condenser makes a loud thumping noise, does it mean the compressor is bad? It’s a new build. The technician came out twice and said the compressor is not bad. I don’t believe it. My neighbor isn’t having the same issue.
If you get acid smell from refrigerant, it's a bad burnout. Put ammeter around all 3 compressor wires. If meter moves at startup, compressor is grounded.
So when ohm is high=burnt winding? And if there's resistance from compressor to ground showing resistance =shorted to ground? Because that means is connected
While the system was running, my guages were reading equal pressures on both high and low sides. I checked the capacitor, and it was good. Disconnected all three wires to the compressor, I was reading 1.3 ohms between the 2 terminals and OL between the other 2 terminals. My guess compressor is bad.
My technician came today and put the clamp on the black wire while the system was running. He said the compressor was bad based on that reading alone. What should be the voltage when connecting a compressor to the black common line while running? Can you really tell if a compressor is bad by just clamping the black wire?
Hi guys, im a service technician in Botswana and love the great work y'all are doing with the videos! Coincidentally i had a similar problem just the other day with a Maclaren 12000 btu packaged unit! The compressor was heating up and much like in the video the thermal overload kept it from starting! I did an ohm test, continuity test and ground test to the compressor and everything checked out! I also tested the capacitor and also did a visual test and still everything seemed legit! I then took the decision to remove the thermal overload to see whether the compressor would start (big mistake) long story short the compressor overheated and shutdown! Can you help on what could have been the problem and what could i have done different
I put in a new contactor, capacitor, fan motor and the fan is not turning on. I can't remove the wiring harness from the compressor. How do I get it off? It's a Copeland r22 3.5 ton 20+ years old.
Also your vacuum videos really saves me a lot of time. I use your 3 core tool removal tool method with 2 hoses, I pull a vacuum in 5 minutes or less with valves open! My company wants me to train everyone on how to do it, I did give you credit. I wish more guys would spend time mastering their trade away from work.
I have had this scinerio a few times. Compressor blowing the breaker. Testing at the compressor two windings had continuity to the tubing but not the third. The two shorted show continuity to each other but not the third. I ordered out the new compressor and someone else goes back and later tells me there was nothing wrong with the compressor. The fan would test out fine. Can an open overload create a path to ground? I did have someone tell me not to use too high of a range on the meter because it can give a false reading. I have been using just the straight continuity setting with the tone.
Is it possible for the compressor to test ok accross the terminals but when it's powered up goes to earth? I'm having that issue at the moment. I have OL from terminals on compressor to the housing. But when the compressor is running there is voltage in the housing causing it to trip the curcuit breaker.
When it comes to identifying the compressor winding, I usually teach the winding opposite the highest resistance is the common winding. The second highest resistance is start and the lowest resistance is run winding. The major question is, why is the start resistance greater that the run resistance?
I had a compressor blowing the breaker. I check resistance from C to R and got OL, C to Start was 47, start to R was also 47. But it wasn't grounded. The compressor wouldn't start tho. So I changed it. Did I do the right thing or did I miss diagnose something?
I would like to try white neutral line to neutral bar in breaker box for common of compressor, as start to common L1 Run to common L2 And common a neutral line to breaker box neutral. 2 breaker switches for compressor, one for L1 and other for L2 . It just that neutral (white ) is common and also hook up the ground line! Same goes for the 240 volt e c m . ! Just like a 240 v a c light bulb with 2 switches and one neutral.
question: ok, bad transformer in heat pump. However the wire on the com. is red, so I'm assuming I connect this one to the white wire on the univ. transformer. Is this correct? Also, the white wire is on the 240 of the old one so I would connect the white wire to the orange for 240 the sec'd wires don't matter in orientation. Is all of this correct? ty
its also possible for the lower resistance leg to be your starter right? ie, you showed 1.7ohm as the start as its a higher resistance but on my sub zero, im seeing the LOWER resistance leg is indeed the start leg [ its the leg for the capacitor ] for BOTH compressors. funny thing is i've checked both compressors and resistance is good as well as no short to ground. but for some reason, the freezer side is just not getting cold. also checked the voltage going into the relay as well as the capacitor.. so kinda scratching my head
Daikin 1.5 ton inverter split ac. 5yrd old. R32 gas running pressure 150psi. Current 6.3amps Both indoor and outdoor coils have been cleaned. Service Technician says it's ok. But it's not cooling. Temp in the indoor blower showed 16'c or 60'My brand new split AC showed indoor temp at 6'c or 43'f Previously compressor would heat up and trip. So got the outdoor pcb repaired. Now it doesn't trip but keeps running. And does not cool the air. The discharge line had a bad pinch in it. It ran throughput last season. Am out of ideas any help greatly appreciated. TIA
Great video...thanks. This is what I have, does it indicate a bad relay? Whirlpool WRT111SFDW03. 7 years old. 11.2 cu ft size. Freezer on top. Start relay P/N: WPW10448874, aka W10448874. Capacitor ("cap") P/N: WPW10662129 Test relay connections with capacitor on the relay. Results: when together I can get cap to charge and discharge thru the start relay, just like it does when it's off the relay. With cap off and on, neither of the lower holes have continuity with each other. The hole on lower left has 0.0 ohms resistance thru the bottom blade of the back of the plug. The lower right hole has no continuity with anything but can be used to charge the capacitor for testing. The upper hole has 0.1 ohm resistance to the top blade on the opposite side. Remove relay cover and visually check. I cannot get combination relay apart without breaking it, so I haven't committed to that, yet. Ohm test the fridge compressor pins again. Make sure the Common (top) and lower pins are within 3 ohms. And the two pins at bottom should read about the sum of the Common with the Start and Run pins. See UA-cam video... Results: Top and Lower Right : 4.4 ohm. Top to Lower Left: 6.0 ohm. Two bottom pins: 10.4 ohm. None of the pins are shorted to ground. My problem is it suddenly stopped cooling without noises or warning, but I caught it from hearing loud buzzing noise from compressor and relay area, and compressor was very hot. No smoke or smells though, and wires did not seem to be hot. Do you think it's the combination relay? Many thankz!
Hello I have a 35 years old GE fridge I get resistance from the compressor Common to Starting reading is 2kohms, Common to running 25ohms, and starting to running more or less 2k. Is the compressor ok? My fridge is running but normally it runs loud but now my compressor runs more silent and turn off after few seconds or minutes. I test also the 3 pins of the compressor to ground it has a resistance about 10kohms. So I need to replace compressor?
I have an issue of occasional short cycling in my roof a/c unit.. will work normal 4 or 5 times then short cycle.. sometimes it does it first run.. other times it will not do it at all.. is there something i can check or replace that is intermittent failing?
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Hi Craig! Love your videos! AMANA furnace with a B1 code (module not communicating with blower motor) emerson aa25650l variable speed.
Meter reading from R-W is 0.04V at the control board and the rest of Tstat wires are 27V.
Do you know what could be the problem? Thanks very much!
The motor is working fine as per ohms test at the 3 pin connector
Do you have a video on low, medium and high temp compressor difference?
Thanks for all the amazing knowledge boss
Hi I just had A unit where we put all new wiring box / outlet then change the capacitor but end up with no running fan after ordering a motor fan condencer got it changed the fan started working but the house isn't sending a cool air in the house ?? So I'm afraid there's a problem with a bad compressor or just cuz of the hot weather that I need to hose it down with water then cool it off then try it works? I wish I could get some guidance from anyone here that faces similar problems? Thank you
Great video!!
Suggestions and beyond ;
1. If the IOL is stuck open and it shouldn't be (Cold compressor etc), try hitting it with a 2x4 to unstick it temporarily until the repair/replacement can me made. Sometimes a sudden shock will get it to close. Sounds unprofessional, but if you get it going for the weekend, you're a hero!
2. After turning off the power to the outdoor unit, push the contactor fully in- to make sure the power is off and to bleed the capacitors at the same time so you don't get bit. Check as well with the meter to make sure power is off.
3. If nothing is running outside and it should be, don't be fooled. A bad duel capacitor can cause the compressor and the motor both to overheat and shut down.
4. Plastic forceps come in handy for quick connecting a temp wire or meter to another wire or capacitor for testing.
5. Always test a grounded compressor at the compressor itself, the wiring to the compressor may be shorted to ground (Made that mistake one cold day covered in snow- but only once) lol
6. A float drain switch in the main drain can flicker the low voltage on and off quickly causing chatter at the outdoor contactor and also cause the scroll compressor to run backwards resulting in a no cooling situation and a noisy compressor complaint. Install a time delay relay in the circuit and set it for one minute minimum.
7. Always verify your meter is working by testing it on live voltage first! Assuming the power is off because you don't read voltage just might mean your meter just quit working.
I've enjoyed HVAC work for over 48 years and I still love it!
Hands down the best teacher and UA-cam channel on here. For someone who likes troubleshooting and fixing their own equipment these videos are incredible.
When the shaft seal is puking out oil and refrigerant, the compressor sounds like a bunch of marbles when you try to run it, and there's metal paste in the discharge line, I assumed it meant the compressor was shot, good thing this video exists to make me reconsider.
Great explanation...Im a minisplit tech in Apodaca Mexico...in yr videos I learn alot...
Love your videos Mr Craig ...You and Mr Brian (kalos) are great teachers.Invaluable to those of us learning online.
I've been messing with a Honda generator and it's gen Head. I kinda, sorta see some similarities between the two. Then again the extent of my voltage meter experience is the continuity setting on my volt meter. Great channel by the way.
This tutorial very useful. But that's part of compressor checking. That's electrical checking only. What if the compressor is seized. Or weak.
One of the best solutions checking mechanical functionality would. Be pump down the unit to see if it pumps down correctly or not.
On the other hand all inverter units have same winding resistance as the inverter controls the load of compressor by increasing and decreasing the Amp and volt rather than winding.
Big like to all your efforts during last couple of years. Appreciable
Thanks for keeping parts that went bad. That helps tremendously to lock on a visual.
Great vídeo! I would love to see a video where you troubleshoot a compressor with bad or weak valves.
The best chanel for hvac hands down!!!
Thank you for your support!!!!
If you get OL between any terminals, common to run, run to start, start to common, you’ll get OL on your meter. That’s means the winding is open. It’s possible to just have one of the 3 open, 2 of 3 open or all 3 open. If the compressor is severely overheated the windings will be open until the internal overload resets. You can cool the compressor off with cold water or ice. A lot of times you’ll hear the internal overload reset, it’s a mechanical “click” noise. If you check any terminal to ground (any terminal to copper ref line works best) you’ll get continuity or a “beep.” If you get a beep on any that compressor is dead. On a 3 phase compressor all resistance (ohms) from terminal to terminal are EQUAL. On a single phase compressor common to run and common to start=start to run….run to start is the LARGEST RESISTANCE VALUE, common to run is the LOWEST RESISTANCE VALUE.
Hi Craig my situation is same like you mentioned Compressor, , Start - to run 2.9k ohm, and common - to start =OL, and common - to run = OL OPEN,
And I haven't turn on ac for days even crazy hot weather too, is there anyway I can fix it???
And I also check , common - to ground green =OL, Run - to ground 39k ohm + and meter ohm keep on increasing, and Start - to ground 39k ohm+ meter keep increasing???is there way to fix or I have to replace a 5 months brandnew compressor?? Thank you for your help and your time
The contact is pulled in, but the compressor nor fan start. Got readings for compressor wires and terminals, but one wire from condenser fan had no reading. Will dead fan motor prohibit compressor from starting? 1996 Goodman 3 phase condenser unit.
Im working on a unit rn with compressor windings that are good but it doesn't start. I tried that grounding test and that's what it was. Im so grateful you made this video lol
Not all failures are burnouts. There are 3 types of Compressor failures opens, shorts and burn outs. A standard VOM may not find a high impedance short to ground a merger maybe required. I’m a HVAC&R service tech with 40+ years of experience.
Generally shorts to ground are not a burnouts or have significant amounts of acid in the system.
A burnout will generate acid from insignificant to severe and often create sludge if any doubt use an acid test kit. At a minimum a high capacity liquid line dryer should be installed when changing a compressor and the refrigerant should always be changed.
Thank you so much for your help 🙏 and it help me a lot God bless you
Yes definitely a megohmmeter is the right tool for this a vom is not capable of reading such values
Every hvac tech should have a megommeter to test for those high impedance shorts!!!
@@TheWpruden even the cheap ones, will work if it has a high voltage test mode
So basically if the compressor is off on overload it would read OL between windings? And if it’s shorted to ground you would get continuity(tone) from the shorted winding to ground ?
If you measure ohms between run and start but not common and run and common and start that's am internal overload that is opened
You would read continuity to ground on all windings since they are all connected
Love the video but perhaps showing how a compressor analyzer or start kit can help diagnose a bad compressor would be informative as well.
What ohm setting do you recommend
Thank you, sir. Your videos are very helpful
They help me refresh my mind all the time.
Great video, Haiti represent
This guy is simply THE BEST!
Thank you for your support!
@@acservicetechchannel No really thank you for what you do! We live in a time where training is so poor, but you have helped me tremendously!
We just had our compressor fail after 2 years of service. Its a mr cool universal heat pump DIY install. We had an authorized MR Cool tech come out and diagnose it and covered its replacement but I'm worried maybe we wrong during the install. The Tech was super impressed with our work and said everything looks great but I'm worried. The compressor sits on ground level outside the house and the AHU is in the basement maybe 4-5' drop in grade. When we installed the line set we didn't install any oil return bends just kept it as straight as possible hanging them basement ceiling. Having a hard time researching oil return bends not a lot of quality information on it. I'm just worried if we replace the outside unit we would potentially be in the same spot in 2 years if we install it the same way. BTW your videos are awesome!!
Thank you for your help, I have learned a lot with your videos, I have already started my own business, I really appreciate you help. Thank you.
Great video. What is it that is causing the ac breaker trip frequently? Checked all the electrical of the condenser unit and all seems to be good. The capacitor is new the fan motor has no issues the contactor looks good. Could it be the compressor causing it? If so how to diagnose and fix? Thanks.
Check the circuit breaker itself...Make sure that ac breaker it not warming up or hot when you start/running the compressor, check the temp of the circuit breaker-using HVAC infrared thermometer...Also, With your HVAC clamp on ammeter, check the Starting Load Current SLA and Running Load Current RLA...
@@thembones12 Thanks for the reply. Just for your information, it was the compressor. It was overloaded with Freon. Overcharged with the Freon. Recovery of the freon did the trick. The breaker has not tripped since then. Thanks.
your videos and books are great! thanks, Brian
Good for every technician thanks
So nice of you
This video was very thorough.
Excellent video, I'm not working on ac at the moment, but I still want to keep learning more and refreshing my memory
😊👍🏼
You can do it!
Thanks! 😊
A megommeter should always be used to test integrity of winding insulation.
Not a multimeter.
Finally someone who knows how and when to use a megger. I have three AMEC megohmmeters, crank style. It is the proper tool for checking the condition of the insulation on the windings to ground. If a system has moisture or contaminants in the oil, it will fail a megger test.
Smelling the refrigerant works too. Spraying just a little of bit of refrigerant in your hand and if its smell like burnout tells you that you have a burnout compressor as well. That's just another easy way to identify a burnout compressor.
The oil will also be black. Or darkened. It does have a terrible smell when it burns out or I have seen a ton of foam which indicates liquid migrating to the compressor oil and sludging it
Also the wonderful smell of phosgene gas.
Easy to follow info.
Thanks.
In process of testing those in dometic harrier inverter rv airconditioner.
Is it a failed compressor if the compressor is pulling double LRA even after installing a hard start kit but the windings have continuity? Compressor isn’t tripping the circuit breaker either
Yes that would be a failed compressor if it is mechanically locked up like that. Sometimes you can give it a bump and it will free up but that's a stop gap solution
Very good education on AC compressors , thanks
Thx for sharing your knowledge!
So detailed - I like
Hi I love your videos thanks for keeping us learning God bless you Sr 🙏🏼
Thanks for watching!
@@acservicetechchannel
Good day Sir
First of all sorry to how can i speak English but i hope you understand...
What are the possible problems to compress Air dryer with alarm overload and everytime i turn on the breaker it always tripping (3 phase)
Hello Craig, which of your books would be best to learn the fundamentals of hvac split and troubleshooting methods? Am trying to save costs by DIY as much as I possibly can. Thanks.
Great video & explanation Craig 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Is that better prove or using merger? Thanks.
That means we are looking a variations in current related to different resistance, or the resistance and current are inversely proportional. As the resistance goes down the current goes up !
Are there better connectors for compressor wires than using wire nuts?
Why cany you clean the coil if you can clean the lines? Thanks
Thanks you sir, for delivering this information. It's usefull indeed and comprehensive. Greetings from Indonesia. 🙂👍
very nice buddy how always!, i love it all your videos, i follew you from Honduras, regans master!
awesome! Craig thank you for sharing! all your videos are so well explained! have a nice and safe weekend.
Thank you for watching!!
Plz can u explain me why my cold store getting off time and again..I had change contactor also
I have a Copeland that is 23 years old. Just have R22 with 30psi on the low side. I charged it up to 60 psi a few weeks ago. My current problem. No leaks found yet...
I do enjoy your videos, great job there, but I do I have a question. I have a heatpump ( portable ac) and it is kinda noicy and I did some research on that and I learnt about using something called ac compressor blanket which wraps the compressor completely to insolate the noise it produces, can I use that on my portable ac compressor? If yes can I make a homemade cushion ac blanket and use that instead? What is your advice, please let me know. Thanks👍
thank for sharing your knowledge.
My pleasure!
During startup the condenser makes a loud thumping noise, does it mean the compressor is bad? It’s a new build. The technician came out twice and said the compressor is not bad. I don’t believe it. My neighbor isn’t having the same issue.
you guys are a great source of Knowledge Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
If you get acid smell from refrigerant, it's a bad burnout. Put ammeter around all 3 compressor wires. If meter moves at startup, compressor is grounded.
On a 3 phase compressor, 2 windings reads the same. One is higher than the other. Is that term called shunted winding?
Excellent video, thank you for sharing
You helped me out diagnosing this today. Thanks!
If the COMPRESSOR show normal no reading is it good or further testing is needed
What did you set your multimeter to when checking if it is shorted to ground?
If a compressor is locked up, is it still in a bad spot and not good?
Well explained I would tell any tech to have a look, good job
So when ohm is high=burnt winding? And if there's resistance from compressor to ground showing resistance =shorted to ground? Because that means is connected
Ours want to start up , but won’t you can hear it engage but , will not start up , is our condenser gone or is the capacitor
While the system was running, my guages were reading equal pressures on both high and low sides. I checked the capacitor, and it was good. Disconnected all three wires to the compressor, I was reading 1.3 ohms between the 2 terminals and OL between the other 2 terminals. My guess compressor is bad.
My technician came today and put the clamp on the black wire while the system was running. He said the compressor was bad based on that reading alone. What should be the voltage when connecting a compressor to the black common line while running? Can you really tell if a compressor is bad by just clamping the black wire?
Hi guys, im a service technician in Botswana and love the great work y'all are doing with the videos! Coincidentally i had a similar problem just the other day with a Maclaren 12000 btu packaged unit! The compressor was heating up and much like in the video the thermal overload kept it from starting! I did an ohm test, continuity test and ground test to the compressor and everything checked out! I also tested the capacitor and also did a visual test and still everything seemed legit! I then took the decision to remove the thermal overload to see whether the compressor would start (big mistake) long story short the compressor overheated and shutdown! Can you help on what could have been the problem and what could i have done different
I put in a new contactor, capacitor, fan motor and the fan is not turning on. I can't remove the wiring harness from the compressor. How do I get it off? It's a Copeland r22 3.5 ton 20+ years old.
Hey craig could you do vids on light commercial equipment not too many vids on that
Awesome video
Thanks for the visit
I have that same meter! I love the dual temp probe feature, and LRA/inrush option. Also the min/max option is cool. Great video, thanks.
Also your vacuum videos really saves me a lot of time. I use your 3 core tool removal tool method with 2 hoses, I pull a vacuum in 5 minutes or less with valves open! My company wants me to train everyone on how to do it, I did give you credit. I wish more guys would spend time mastering their trade away from work.
You guys make me want to learn the trade!
A good meter will tickle your peter
You disconnected the wire from the compressor in the split unit. Is there any residual power or current in the compressor? Any precautions needed?
gotta use caution with the capacitor !!! UA-cam how to drain "entergy" from capacitor
Thanks for your videos man!
Glad you like them!
Wow thank you very much for sharing your knowledge ❤️🇬🇱
Wish you long live and better doing
Happy teacher day 💐
Great video. Thanks💯
I have had this scinerio a few times. Compressor blowing the breaker. Testing at the compressor two windings had continuity to the tubing but not the third. The two shorted show continuity to each other but not the third. I ordered out the new compressor and someone else goes back and later tells me there was nothing wrong with the compressor. The fan would test out fine. Can an open overload create a path to ground? I did have someone tell me not to use too high of a range on the meter because it can give a false reading. I have been using just the straight continuity setting with the tone.
An open overload would not cause a path to ground. It would just prevent from the control relay coil energizing.
Is it possible for the compressor to test ok accross the terminals but when it's powered up goes to earth? I'm having that issue at the moment.
I have OL from terminals on compressor to the housing. But when the compressor is running there is voltage in the housing causing it to trip the curcuit breaker.
Great video!
When it comes to identifying the compressor winding, I usually teach the winding opposite the highest resistance is the common winding. The second highest resistance is start and the lowest resistance is run winding. The major question is, why is the start resistance greater that the run resistance?
There is no comment on my name only a run whining and start whining and they both meet at a common point which is the common connection or C terminal
Because the motor has an in-rush of current when it starts which needs more resistance (start Winding has more resistance than the Run Winding
What if my start to run ohms don’t add up right. Like 30% off?
Very very good information sir Thank U very much 👍
Thank you for watching!!
I had a compressor blowing the breaker. I check resistance from C to R and got OL, C to Start was 47, start to R was also 47. But it wasn't grounded. The compressor wouldn't start tho. So I changed it. Did I do the right thing or did I miss diagnose something?
Not on All compressors tho ,,if it sn inverter values would be the same on each approx 2 ohms could you confirm?
Nice 👍 video, can you make videos on 3 phase compressor phase reversal rotation
I have made a mistake by swapping the LIVE and NEUTRAL wires. Will this damage my compressor as my input and output pressures always stays the same ?
If you get completely on your meter from one of the terms on the compressor
Nice thx. How’re you liking that uei black multi meter?
I would like to try white neutral line to neutral bar in breaker box for common of compressor, as start to common L1
Run to common L2
And common a neutral line to breaker box neutral.
2 breaker switches for compressor, one for L1 and other for L2 . It just that neutral (white ) is common
and also hook up the ground line!
Same goes for the 240 volt e c m . !
Just like a 240 v a c light bulb with 2 switches and one neutral.
helpful and great video. thank you so much
Hi, so much working on ac in gulf. I have a question about central unit. Single room the thermostat is no switching on.
look up "acservicetech testing thermostat with multimeter" thanks!
How common do compressor plugs go bad?
On thermal overload does it open 1 winding or 2? It opens winding between common and start? Or both between common and run?
Have your book and quick cards, Posters are also helpful. Recommend them to everyone in HVAC Trade.
Thanks a lot Ralph!
Just for info, I was taught that OL on a DVOM / multi meter is “Open Loop” because an electrical circuit is essentially a loop.
OL = Open Line = Open = No Continuity = broken connections = broken loop = broken wire = OFF line = broken circuit = it's not connected, it's open....
Dt Candia - yeah, open loop.
What side you open 1st when you install a condenser,, low side or high side?
Don't Matter but most techs go for low side the thick pipe
@@sergiodoordie319 uh..no. always liquid side (high side) first.
question: ok, bad transformer in heat pump. However the wire on the com. is red, so I'm assuming I connect this one to the white wire on the univ. transformer. Is this correct? Also, the white wire is on the 240 of the old one so I would connect the white wire to the orange for 240 the sec'd wires don't matter in orientation. Is all of this correct? ty
Great info.
Great video..
its also possible for the lower resistance leg to be your starter right? ie, you showed 1.7ohm as the start as its a higher resistance but on my sub zero, im seeing the LOWER resistance leg is indeed the start leg [ its the leg for the capacitor ] for BOTH compressors.
funny thing is i've checked both compressors and resistance is good as well as no short to ground. but for some reason, the freezer side is just not getting cold. also checked the voltage going into the relay as well as the capacitor.. so kinda scratching my head
Daikin 1.5 ton inverter split ac. 5yrd old.
R32 gas running pressure 150psi.
Current 6.3amps
Both indoor and outdoor coils have been cleaned.
Service Technician says it's ok.
But it's not cooling.
Temp in the indoor blower showed 16'c or 60'My brand new split AC showed indoor temp at 6'c or 43'f
Previously compressor would heat up and trip. So got the outdoor pcb repaired.
Now it doesn't trip but keeps running.
And does not cool the air.
The discharge line had a bad pinch in it. It ran throughput last season.
Am out of ideas any help greatly appreciated.
TIA
Great video...thanks. This is what I have, does it indicate a bad relay?
Whirlpool WRT111SFDW03. 7 years old. 11.2 cu ft size. Freezer on top.
Start relay
P/N: WPW10448874,
aka W10448874.
Capacitor ("cap") P/N: WPW10662129
Test relay connections with capacitor on the relay.
Results: when together I can get cap to charge and discharge thru the start relay, just like it does when it's off the relay.
With cap off and on, neither of the lower holes have continuity with each other. The hole on lower left has 0.0 ohms resistance thru the bottom blade of the back of the plug.
The lower right hole has no continuity with anything but can be used to charge the capacitor for testing.
The upper hole has 0.1 ohm resistance to the top blade on the opposite side.
Remove relay cover and visually check. I cannot get combination relay apart without breaking it, so I haven't committed to that, yet.
Ohm test the fridge compressor pins again. Make sure the Common (top) and lower pins are within 3 ohms. And the two pins at bottom should read about the sum of the Common with the Start and Run pins. See UA-cam video...
Results:
Top and Lower Right : 4.4 ohm.
Top to Lower Left: 6.0 ohm.
Two bottom pins: 10.4 ohm.
None of the pins are shorted to ground.
My problem is it suddenly stopped cooling without noises or warning, but I caught it from hearing loud buzzing noise from compressor and relay area, and compressor was very hot. No smoke or smells though, and wires did not seem to be hot.
Do you think it's the combination relay? Many thankz!
Thank you, very helpful
Hello I have a 35 years old GE fridge I get resistance from the compressor Common to Starting reading is 2kohms, Common to running 25ohms, and starting to running more or less 2k. Is the compressor ok?
My fridge is running but normally it runs loud but now my compressor runs more silent and turn off after few seconds or minutes. I test also the 3 pins of the compressor to ground it has a resistance about 10kohms. So I need to replace compressor?
I have an issue of occasional short cycling in my roof a/c unit.. will work normal 4 or 5 times then short cycle.. sometimes it does it first run.. other times it will not do it at all.. is there something i can check or replace that is intermittent failing?