Next time take two 2litre pop bottles cut top just past curve and the other one about a inch into the curve so it’s easier to slip in one another easier than using the glass bottles and bag and the water can run back in bottom when get too much water in top humidity. You could already put soil mix in bottom piece and start rooting new trees. I hope you try this next time and make a video. Thanks from I AM SEELY.
This video is good at generating questions, and most gardeners will find it quicker to simply do what they think might work, rather than watch a meandering video featuring a boatload of products. In the comments this person even recommends just trying whatever you want and that will work just as well.
Hello, do you put drain holes in the bottom of the cup? Or do you keep the sand as wet as you did when you planted them? Or do you let it dry out between watering? Or is this more like growing roots in a glass of water so it should stay very wet?
taking cutting now in new york what are your thoughts? in water or soil? my dogwood shrub cutting are in water no dome is it necessary to cover crape myrtle in water? I read all over that crape myrtles cant root in water but you proving that wrong
I’ve rooted a ton in water, but I do most of mine in coco coir now. Peat moss is fine as well, but I’ve switched to coco coir, because it doesn’t dry out as easily as peat. I used to do all my propagation inside, which is why I needed the humidity domes/bags, since I needed to replicate humidity, but I’ve move all my propagation to my shade hut outside. I live in Florida, so there’s really no need for additional humidity domes/covers outside to help them root. If I were you, I’d experiment with both. I’d try in water and soil, and for each medium, try one covered and one uncovered.
@@propagatehappiness6015 thanks bud! Im going to get some going asap. thinking peat moss and perlite but peat moss is so messy specially when inside. coco coir straight up thats it? i have to see if i can find that. fine pine bark i saw works but need to find that.
@@zgoalscorer8450 I order coco coir from Amazon, 11 lbs fills a small trash can when wet. You might not need that much though, I use it for our nursery propagation. They all work though.
@@propagatehappiness6015 thats it nothing else added? use that inside and can i use it outside in winter for hardwood cuttings? you have a link ? thanks
@@zgoalscorer8450 outside of coco coir, I personally use clonex rooting gel now. It’s a very mild rooting gel, and most people say crape myrtles don’t need it, but as a nursery, I need to ensure the most success.
Personally, I’ve never done that, but it might be worth a try. Honestly, plant propagation is so much trial and error, what works best for 1 plant, doesn’t seem to work for another.
I just received some hardwood cuttings unrooted and its late Spring here in NY...would it be possible to root them now and possibly get late Summer bloom or Fall?
Sorry for the delayed response! I hope you did this and got the desired results. In Florida, they bloom nearly 8-9 months a year, but we have year round summers here.
I’ve been experimenting with that (removing the leaves) recently, and if I’m honest, I get similar results both ways. Also, I’ve recently found that I don’t have to cover hardwood cuttings, in fact when covering them, it seems to delay the rooting process. Yes, we sell crape myrtles in our nursery.
@@propagatehappiness6015 So I took a bunch of cuttings from my in-laws Natchez crape myrtle and rooted them in water. When is it safe to plant them in soil? I tried a few and they've all dried out and died. What am I doing wrong?
@@briancox6926 I had a little trouble with this as well, in my case it had a lot to do with the ziplock bag over the crape Myrtle. Once my crape myrtles start rooting, I take ziplock bag off, but keep them in water. This allows the plant to learn to grow outside of the humidity dome/enclosure, before stressing it out with transplanting. I like to do this step gradually, poking holes in the bag, then cut slits, and over a weeks time or so, remove the ziplock bag completely. After the bag is removed, I grow another full week still in the jar/water, to get the plant used to being outside the humidity. Before transplanting into soil, I make sure I thoroughly water the soil filled pot, and let it fully drain out. Lastly, don’t over water once you move it into the soil, over watering can be just as harmful as under watering. The more the roots have to seek moisture, the stronger they will grow. If it’s too wet, the roots won’t need to grow, and the plant will be weaker with the small root base. After I transplant, I usually don’t water for 4-7 days, just depending on how moist the soil remains. I grow all my cuttings inside, so this timeline may not work for outdoor growing.
Did you do updated Video
Great explanation on different ways to propagate crape myrtles. I will definitely be trying the Mason jar technique.
You leave them in a warm place or in outside temperature ?
Next time take two 2litre pop bottles cut top just past curve and the other one about a inch into the curve so it’s easier to slip in one another easier than using the glass bottles and bag and the water can run back in bottom when get too much water in top humidity. You could already put soil mix in bottom piece and start rooting new trees. I hope you try this next time and make a video. Thanks from I AM SEELY.
This video is good at generating questions, and most gardeners will find it quicker to simply do what they think might work, rather than watch a meandering video featuring a boatload of products. In the comments this person even recommends just trying whatever you want and that will work just as well.
Can a crepe myrtles cutting be dormant long enough to be mailed Thanks
Good information I'll keep an eye on you next video. Please reach volume. Thank you ❤️
Hello, do you put drain holes in the bottom of the cup? Or do you keep the sand as wet as you did when you planted them? Or do you let it dry out between watering? Or is this more like growing roots in a glass of water so it should stay very wet?
There are drainage holes in the tray, for the method in soil, but for the mason jar method, it’s growing the roots in water
taking cutting now in new york what are your thoughts? in water or soil? my dogwood shrub cutting are in water no dome is it necessary to cover crape myrtle in water? I read all over that crape myrtles cant root in water but you proving that wrong
I’ve rooted a ton in water, but I do most of mine in coco coir now. Peat moss is fine as well, but I’ve switched to coco coir, because it doesn’t dry out as easily as peat. I used to do all my propagation inside, which is why I needed the humidity domes/bags, since I needed to replicate humidity, but I’ve move all my propagation to my shade hut outside. I live in Florida, so there’s really no need for additional humidity domes/covers outside to help them root. If I were you, I’d experiment with both. I’d try in water and soil, and for each medium, try one covered and one uncovered.
@@propagatehappiness6015 thanks bud! Im going to get some going asap. thinking peat moss and perlite but peat moss is so messy specially when inside. coco coir straight up thats it? i have to see if i can find that. fine pine bark i saw works but need to find that.
@@zgoalscorer8450 I order coco coir from Amazon, 11 lbs fills a small trash can when wet. You might not need that much though, I use it for our nursery propagation. They all work though.
@@propagatehappiness6015 thats it nothing else added? use that inside and can i use it outside in winter for hardwood cuttings? you have a link ? thanks
@@zgoalscorer8450 outside of coco coir, I personally use clonex rooting gel now. It’s a very mild rooting gel, and most people say crape myrtles don’t need it, but as a nursery, I need to ensure the most success.
one more question… the water ones you keep under lighting? I have mine i did tonight off to the side of my grow light so its not directly under it.
I like to keep them outside the light, indirect light is good until roots establish.
@@propagatehappiness6015 i have them off to the side of my grow light
Do you think its a good idea to 'crush' the end of the cutting before inserting it into the soil?
Personally, I’ve never done that, but it might be worth a try. Honestly, plant propagation is so much trial and error, what works best for 1 plant, doesn’t seem to work for another.
I just received some hardwood cuttings unrooted and its late Spring here in NY...would it be possible to root them now and possibly get late Summer bloom or Fall?
Sorry for the delayed response! I hope you did this and got the desired results. In Florida, they bloom nearly 8-9 months a year, but we have year round summers here.
If you removed the leaves do you think they would root faster ? Also , do you sell crepe myrtles ?
I’ve been experimenting with that (removing the leaves) recently, and if I’m honest, I get similar results both ways. Also, I’ve recently found that I don’t have to cover hardwood cuttings, in fact when covering them, it seems to delay the rooting process. Yes, we sell crape myrtles in our nursery.
@@propagatehappiness6015 So I took a bunch of cuttings from my in-laws Natchez crape myrtle and rooted them in water. When is it safe to plant them in soil? I tried a few and they've all dried out and died. What am I doing wrong?
@@briancox6926 I had a little trouble with this as well, in my case it had a lot to do with the ziplock bag over the crape Myrtle. Once my crape myrtles start rooting, I take ziplock bag off, but keep them in water. This allows the plant to learn to grow outside of the humidity dome/enclosure, before stressing it out with transplanting. I like to do this step gradually, poking holes in the bag, then cut slits, and over a weeks time or so, remove the ziplock bag completely. After the bag is removed, I grow another full week still in the jar/water, to get the plant used to being outside the humidity. Before transplanting into soil, I make sure I thoroughly water the soil filled pot, and let it fully drain out. Lastly, don’t over water once you move it into the soil, over watering can be just as harmful as under watering. The more the roots have to seek moisture, the stronger they will grow. If it’s too wet, the roots won’t need to grow, and the plant will be weaker with the small root base. After I transplant, I usually don’t water for 4-7 days, just depending on how moist the soil remains. I grow all my cuttings inside, so this timeline may not work for outdoor growing.
Tenting hardwood cuttings is unnecessary.