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There are drainage holes in the tray, for the method in soil, but for the mason jar method, it’s growing the roots in water

I like to keep them outside the light, indirect light is good until roots establish.

@@propagatehappiness6015 i have them off to the side of my grow light

I’ve rooted a ton in water, but I do most of mine in coco coir now. Peat moss is fine as well, but I’ve switched to coco coir, because it doesn’t dry out as easily as peat. I used to do all my propagation inside, which is why I needed the humidity domes/bags, since I needed to replicate humidity, but I’ve move all my propagation to my shade hut outside. I live in Florida, so there’s really no need for additional humidity domes/covers outside to help them root. If I were you, I’d experiment with both. I’d try in water and soil, and for each medium, try one covered and one uncovered.

@@propagatehappiness6015 thanks bud! Im going to get some going asap. thinking peat moss and perlite but peat moss is so messy specially when inside. coco coir straight up thats it? i have to see if i can find that. fine pine bark i saw works but need to find that.

@@zgoalscorer8450 I order coco coir from Amazon, 11 lbs fills a small trash can when wet. You might not need that much though, I use it for our nursery propagation. They all work though.

@@propagatehappiness6015 thats it nothing else added? use that inside and can i use it outside in winter for hardwood cuttings? you have a link ? thanks

@@zgoalscorer8450 outside of coco coir, I personally use clonex rooting gel now. It’s a very mild rooting gel, and most people say crape myrtles don’t need it, but as a nursery, I need to ensure the most success.

Personally, I’ve never done that, but it might be worth a try. Honestly, plant propagation is so much trial and error, what works best for 1 plant, doesn’t seem to work for another.

I’ve been experimenting with that (removing the leaves) recently, and if I’m honest, I get similar results both ways. Also, I’ve recently found that I don’t have to cover hardwood cuttings, in fact when covering them, it seems to delay the rooting process. Yes, we sell crape myrtles in our nursery.

@@propagatehappiness6015 So I took a bunch of cuttings from my in-laws Natchez crape myrtle and rooted them in water. When is it safe to plant them in soil? I tried a few and they've all dried out and died. What am I doing wrong?

@@briancox6926 I had a little trouble with this as well, in my case it had a lot to do with the ziplock bag over the crape Myrtle. Once my crape myrtles start rooting, I take ziplock bag off, but keep them in water. This allows the plant to learn to grow outside of the humidity dome/enclosure, before stressing it out with transplanting. I like to do this step gradually, poking holes in the bag, then cut slits, and over a weeks time or so, remove the ziplock bag completely. After the bag is removed, I grow another full week still in the jar/water, to get the plant used to being outside the humidity. Before transplanting into soil, I make sure I thoroughly water the soil filled pot, and let it fully drain out. Lastly, don’t over water once you move it into the soil, over watering can be just as harmful as under watering. The more the roots have to seek moisture, the stronger they will grow. If it’s too wet, the roots won’t need to grow, and the plant will be weaker with the small root base. After I transplant, I usually don’t water for 4-7 days, just depending on how moist the soil remains. I grow all my cuttings inside, so this timeline may not work for outdoor growing.

Sorry for the delayed response! I hope you did this and got the desired results. In Florida, they bloom nearly 8-9 months a year, but we have year round summers here.