It’s not the double frame rate but the the doubled shutter speed that darkens the image. You guys don’t have shutter angle😆 but you still have to double the shutter speed. If there’s not a lot of movement you can leave the shutter speed where it is. 180 degree shutter is more motion blur.
Thank you Randy, it's always good to see m users watching other vids. The funny thing is....I use this same technique on my m. I push it just to point before it's over exposed and the images become clean. It's a bit harder because I don't like to go above 400iso but the same rules still apply 🙌🏾
@@Altcine same here I don’t ever want to go above 400 iso. Good to see you making more content and having your following grow. I have yet to add more content to my channel but I’ll get there. Keep pushing for “likes” too, I came in around 1,000 views and there was only 77 likes or so. We need to be better as viewers sometimes.
Philp R Peck did an AMAZING video on this. A better way if you are outdoors and stil cant bring in enough light - lower your ISO. BUT WAIT! BASE ISO FOR SLOG-3 IS 800!!! I need to be at 800 for all the dynamic range!!! Well, Philp R. Peck tested that and....its not trrue. Lowering your ISO just changes where middle grey sits. So youll capture more shadows but less highlights...but if you expose properly usng ND's, it wont matter. How to get rid of the noise? Go to flexible ISO and not Cine EI, and just use that! I recently went on vacation with the GF and tried it myself actually and it was PERFECT! Zero noise. Completely gone. I shot anything in good light and 24p in 800 ISO, but 120p i lowered the ISO and BAM! The shots came out beautiful. I highly suggest watching his video on it as he explains it so well showing so many tests he did
Thanks bro. It's not always necessary...it's a thing you have to judge depending on the scene. Definitely not if you have lots of bright lights or harsh sun.
I'm not sure what everyone else is doing but I shoot almost exclusively in 120fps since I've been primarily filming my track practices and when we're outside there's no noise at all. When we're practicing inside however, that's another story.
Yeah I'm not sure either. Inside is difficult but not impossible but I still think people shouldn't bash it because they bought the wrong camera. I think a lot of people don't realise that in a7siii and other Sony hybrids that there's tons of noise reduction going on and they try to compare s35 to ff.....it's mad.
@@AltcineI think that's the case in many situations. People are trying to find reasons why they may or may not have made the wrong purchase without taking into account the different sensors. I knew that I wouldnt have the same low light performance but I also knew that I wouldn't be shooting much in low light.
I am really surprised why you don't just use CineEI properly? 2500 Base ISO, 640 Exposure Index and you will get the exact same results while keeping a proper preview. Very important to use normal CineEI and not use CineEI Quick, it will not give you that option! Base idea is right though, you need to ETTR with the FX30, and I wasn't aware of the reason for the bad 120/100 fps noise, which you did a great job to explain!
Yes this is correct and you'll see this on so many other cams too. It's important to keep the sensor cool to avoid this. For example, on the original Blackmagic pocket camera Vs the micro, the micro was a lot less noisy because the fan is cooling the the boards and sensor. It's something a lot of people overlook when comparing the fx30 Vs the new ZVE1.
One more tip for slow motion: use 360 angle instead 180. If you want to film 60fps then use 60 shutter instead 120. It’s much more natural then you easily can use it as 24fps without crazy shutter image and finally you have + 1 stop on exposure.
Thanks for this. I always use False Color for accuracy. I don't really shoot in higher frame rates, but this video is helpful for if I do. I'm currently on a Sigma 18-50 MM, but I'll check out Sigma's faster lenses. Thanks again!
Thank you for commenting. Yes false colour is definitely the best way and agree it's best for accuracy. Please do check out the faster lenses as they make so much difference to day or night time shooting.
I replied thinking it was canon but it's FX30 lol Camera settings, they changed all the time depending on what and where I'm shooting. Far to many variables to give a definitive setting.
@@Altcine You may just say: S-Cinatone / ISO 640 ..etc.. Stating ISO is important as all the talk about FX30 is about how grainy footage you get using certain ISOs .... That will give viewer better idea what settings produce what results. Thx!
Love this, great information! I recently filmed a podcast with my FX30 (first official project on the camera), and made the large mistake of not over exposing bc I thought it looked fine on my monitor 😂. The best part is, my subject was wearing a black tshirt 🤦🏻♀️
Thank you Phoebe 😀🙌🏾 don't worry too much, it happens to all of us. I bet you're beating yourself up over it but I'm sure you can get it looking acceptable in post.
Great video! But it looks like UA-cam's color compression really blends the noise together, such that even noisy footage doesn't actually look very noisy compared to viewing the same video file on my hard drive. Am I crazy? I feel like I'm just now noticing this.
Hmmm, it depends. It's definitely not a NO light camera but can do well in streets etc at night if you have some fast lenses like f1.4 The thing about traveling is you usually want to travel light and that means a zoom lens is the best option but I think they only come in at around f2.8 I think you'll find some decent travel videos shot on the fx30 but remember that people only share the best shots. I personally would look elsewhere if it was just for travel.
@@Altcine thanks! I want to film family, mini docs for work (school teacher), sports, and travel! Was looking at canon r8 but felt fx30 may be best for my needs. Open to suggestions. And if you think fx30 is a good buy for needs curious what lens you’d suggest
You definitely can do all of that, just pick wisely when to use sLog3 Vs cinetone. You can go slightly higher than the 2500iso but you will need to use noise reduction. I suggest getting the sigma 1.4 primes. I got the 16mm & 30mm for £390 used in great condition and I use them for nearly all my work. I highly suggest you pick up the 16mm just for lowlight. The clear image zoom works well if you want to punch in without much loss of quality if it's too wide but please get that lens first. I see a lot of people complaining about low light then I find they have f2.8 lens which is mostly great but you definitely will need more at night.
Yeah that's right. I actually use a cheap kit zoom in the daytime for certain shots and that f3.5 to f5.6 I actually forgot to ask about manual focus lenses. If you're ok with that then there's soooo many more options.
Thanks a lot! I have tried for a long time to get better 100fps results. But I have struggled. This video might not solve all issues, but it have given me some ideas, maily because you put words on my thoughts (like: hmm how much should i overexpose). Also Id just like to so tell you that you are a very good educator - makes it so easy to understand.
Hey, thank you for the feedback, very kind of you. I like what you said about not solving all issues but gives you some ideas. The truth is, every situation is different so we need different approaches to working with light...even with a full frame sensor.
That's impossible to say as all interiors will vary in available light. Also at +2 stops, you risk blowing out your highlights of the windows. I always say that you have to test methods yourself and then you'll know wether to expose at 1, 1.7 or 2
I don't think the downsampling works at all on 1080p, the quality isn't that great imo. I'd rather use the most heavily compressed 4k and render the final in 1080p.
Thank you 😅 I don't know what's worse reading bad language or hearing it 🙈 I've only tried Dci 4k but only a couple times when trying anamorphic. I'm going to safely assume the that the rules still apply as it's the sensor we're talking about.
Yeah that's one way. Depending on the location you will sacrifice Dynamic range but I guess it would be clean. I've started using Flexible iso in dark places now with lower iso and it does work well....image just looks a bit crushed though.
I have used Nd filter indoors for talking head when I wanted to keep aperture wide open but I don't use it often. Just depends on what the desired look is
@@NewsMoto I know, I'm just asking you if you know know what variable shutter is for! To answer your question, I was filming somewhere the day before and I had issues with the lighting so I had to adjust the shutter and didn't change it for this video because it wasn't relevant to what I was talking about. Double the framerate is always advised but you don't always have to stick to it.
My a6400 has pretty bad performance in 1080p at 25 or 100 fps even though it also has the 6k to 4k down sampling. I need to do some more experimenting like this to see if I can get some better quality out of it. On another note why does everyone now call the frame rate “p” ? P usually means progressive as in 1080p and frame rate is usually always expressed as fps, so saying 120p doesn’t make sense to me. I’m hearing a lot of UA-camrs especially Americans saying p for frame rate now what am I missing ?
I think that's because the a6400 doesn't have a bsi sensor (I'm guessing) but bsi sensor do perform better. I think for you the best bet is to stay at a very low iso but I know this will be very challenging in certain lighting situations. The same applies to fx30. You can get noise free hfr in normal pp with low iso but then you sacrifice the dynamic range and the goodness of sLog3 cine...the reason most people choose the camera. I'm confused by the P too. You can see it when I'm talking, like I almost feel like I'm not sure. Really need to go back to saying just FPS.
@@Altcine Thanks 👍🏻 I know the a6400 isn’t quite the right camera for the kind of quality I’m after but I’m also really hesitant to change it just yet when I think what I really would be needing is an A7SIII or FX3 but the FX3 price is almost insane for what I do. A lot of the time I just use a GoPro 11 🤣 because it does all I want it just lacks the top end quality of a decent lens camera. I have a BMPCC4K which is amazing picture quality but it’s honestly too big a rig to use most of the time which is why I reverted to the a6400 for trialling the GoPro replacement. I’m not a film maker either so it could get out of hand really easily but I just want a wider than APSC FOV (MFT with Speedbooster isn’t enough) with minimal distortion, 4k 100fps in a small package that I don’t have to rig out too much 🤣 Regarding the “P” I’m glad I’m not the only one I thought I was going mad 😜 👍🏻👊🏼
@@Tugela60 I don’t think any UA-camr or film maker who doesn’t work in broadcast television is going to be thinking in terms of interlaced, so I can’t see that being the reason.
I think in PAL mode you'll only see 100fps max. In NTSC it'll show up. I think you can go higher in pal if you use S&Q mode but you will capture and playback in slow motion and it won't have any sound.
You're using CINE EI, so, you don't want to put a filter in front of the lens before lowering that EI first, (1000EI on 2500 base for example) so you can shoot the highest exposure value (of course you'll have to lower exposure in post. Never shoot a higher EI than the base ISO, always lower
At 3:54 it appears that you're shooting in CineEI. Which means you're limiting yourself to 800 and 2500 ISO. Another solution I found through another YT creator, is to shoot in Flexible ISO and lower the ISO below 800. Here is the video: ua-cam.com/video/_vbsgNP1y6w/v-deo.html
Hey I just watched this and this wouldn't work for me. Shooting at that low an iso and crushing the dynamic range is the opposite of why I brought the camera. It's interesting that he says you should never shoot hfr in cineEi 🤔 it's absolutely fine to do this as long as you have the right gear, lenses, light conditions etc. If you don't have the right stuff then his way will work but then that would make the image very standard looking.
@@Altcine I'm not an expert, but in my tests, I don't think you're actually losing dynamic range, you're just shifting where the dynamic range is allocated. In fact, I get exactly the same results shooting in ISO 200 as I do shooting in Cine EI base 800 at 200 EI (for example). Sony has a chart illustrating how the allocation of dynamic range shifts as you change EI values, but I really think changing the ISO has the same effect. Blackmagic Design has a similar chart, but instead of EI, which it obviously doesn't have, it shows how the stops of dynamic range shift with the ISO. I don't know if that made any sense but I'm working on a video about it now 🤞
Hey Phillip, I will definitely watch your video to get a clearer understanding of what you mean. I think it comes down to how you grade so if the pictures are a standard conversion like in this video then I gues they would look the same. Again, I'll definitely watch your vid for more insights 🙌🏾
Cool IMCE great reflexion that is obvious but hardly never the topic of a video ! (a very very small feedback : can you use a wider lens when you film yourself ?) Also the FX30 shots 02:25 on night look outstanding !!!
Yes it's so obvious bro. Am I too much in your face 😅 noted, I'll go wider next time for sure. Yeah those shots came out great. It's for a music video that's about to be released. Was my first time using the SLR magic anamorphot 40 on a project and I'm pleased with the results.
@@Altcine 😂 that's so funny. I noticed the shot being pretty close too but I'm a guy who doesn't mind being face to face with people (I don't strongly dislike) in real life, so 🤷🏻. But yeah, people who need more space might actually be uncomfortable watching a continuous close shot like this haha. But again, I don't mind and I don't think it's wrong per se. I actually like it now that I think about it, feels more personal. Also I'm watching it on my phone. Hard to get intrusive when you're literally the size of a hamster.
It would be nice to see some example footage with comparisons. In this video I couldnt tell which clips were taken at 120p or if it hand any. Were the noise example clips taken at 120p? It didn't look like it to me. The FX30 footage is great until I watch 120p footage, which seems unusable even in bright daylight.
The scene I'm holding the flamethrower is 100p. The ones in my garden I actually say they are 100p. I didn't put it in text because I said it vocally. EDIT are you saying it didn't look like it because of how slow it is? If yes, it's because I edited this on a 50fps timeline and only slowed the clips 50%. It doesn't matter how much you slow it down, the quality is still the same. Just try my method when you have time.
@@Altcine Thanks for the response. The garden footage does look fairly clean and detailed, the night time flamethrower looks clean but unfortunatly not very detailed, like it's 720p or something. I was going to get an FX30 but ended up getting the A7SIII since I really wanted to have clean 120p for wildlife. Since your method demands a very low aperature, it might not work on a telephoto lens. Would be nice to see if you can get it clean on a telephoto (400 ~ 600mm lens) however.
No probs, yeah the flamethrower was a recycled download from my other video using an online downloader. It's a clip from my Sony fx30 cinematic beast video. The a7s3 is still fantastic till this day and honestly, I would say to most people to pick it up before any crop sensor if you aren't doing studio productions and lighting. So in this scenario I think you made the right choice.
@@Altcine thanks! It's nice to see a video that actually addresses the fx30's 120p issues - I find it hard to even find decent example clips. If Sony could address the issues with 100/120p on the fx30, with perhaps a firmware update, then I would definatley consider it - since a crop sensor is great for wildlife. I say this becuase even the GH6 has super clean 4k 120p and its sensor is even smaller! So it can be done. Anyway, thanks for posting!
Would you suggest the Eos M or FX30. I own the M50 and i really would love to use your Hollywood cine kit. I am considering to purchase eos m and dive into magic lantern as a first time user. I love the results i see here and would like to find an affordable solution for video. I think for around $520 us i could own both. Probably the best deal i will ever find for a nice looking cine cam
Hi, Whilst the colour bit depth is higher on the eos-m it really is no comparison to the fx30. The fx30 has superb image, works flawlessly and tons of great features that help to simplify shooting. The m is a very cheap cam capable of great things when you have good lighting but for more complex shooting it might not be so easy. Plus all footage needs transcoding etc. I would still buy it because it can get the job done but it does come with caveats.
What are the standard frame rates used in the UK? Is it shot in PAL/25 and speed is changed to 24? Or is it shot in 24 and working around the flicker issues using shutter angle?
Thank you. You can increase shutter to let in more light but it will affect the way the image looks so it depends what look you're going for. Honestly I'd say stick to the natives and use fast lenses but you can experiment.
With the cine EI giving us only 2 options of ISO makes it more like a film camera where you only have limited option of gain. Definitely makes you a better DP and filmmaker.
Correct, when you double the frame rate you effectively half the exposure.
Yep exactly. Thank you
It’s not the double frame rate but the the doubled shutter speed that darkens the image.
You guys don’t have shutter angle😆 but you still have to double the shutter speed.
If there’s not a lot of movement you can leave the shutter speed where it is.
180 degree shutter is more motion blur.
You are allowed to slow down the shutter. You don’t have to stick to 180° all the time.
The FX30 also has a huge crop at high frame rates.
Brilliantly done video without all the BS. I wish more camera channels would follow your lead. Subscribed.
Thank you so much. Yeah I really appreciate getting to the point 👍🏾👍🏾
Correct - 👍🏻 I would highly suggest you buy the Viltrox 23mm 1.4 which is a 35mm FF equivalent. It's sharp and still maintais great autofocus. ✅
35mm is one of my favourite focal lengths as it's so versatile.
I saw some AF tests and I strongly agree with you regarding it's performance.
Your positive attitude is both refreshing and inspiring! Thanks and keep up the great work!
Thank you Craig, very kind.
You are such a likeable guy! Some of these camera tubers come off as real jerks. It's nice to see a genuine filmaker. ❤
Agree
Thanks mate, I picked one up to compliment my A7S 3 but was stressing about the slo mo noise
No probs mate, hope it works for you too.
great video and information as always man. I'm currently figuring that out with my EOS M on getting the cleanest image with my lenses. great stuff.
Thank you Randy, it's always good to see m users watching other vids. The funny thing is....I use this same technique on my m. I push it just to point before it's over exposed and the images become clean.
It's a bit harder because I don't like to go above 400iso but the same rules still apply 🙌🏾
@@Altcine same here I don’t ever want to go above 400 iso. Good to see you making more content and having your following grow. I have yet to add more content to my channel but I’ll get there. Keep pushing for “likes” too, I came in around 1,000 views and there was only 77 likes or so. We need to be better as viewers sometimes.
@@grippyda2851 sorry man this is my other account! lol
That's true bro, very true
Thats why i love the panasonic gh6. Fantastic 120p, no crop, no noise.
My friend swears by his Lumix cams too. He has quite a few from GH5s upwards and always shoots on them.
Isnt it a full frame camera, maybe it woild be fair if you compared it to a7siii or smt
Fx30 is crop but a7s3 applies noise reduction in high iso
Philp R Peck did an AMAZING video on this. A better way if you are outdoors and stil cant bring in enough light - lower your ISO. BUT WAIT! BASE ISO FOR SLOG-3 IS 800!!! I need to be at 800 for all the dynamic range!!! Well, Philp R. Peck tested that and....its not trrue. Lowering your ISO just changes where middle grey sits. So youll capture more shadows but less highlights...but if you expose properly usng ND's, it wont matter. How to get rid of the noise? Go to flexible ISO and not Cine EI, and just use that! I recently went on vacation with the GF and tried it myself actually and it was PERFECT! Zero noise. Completely gone. I shot anything in good light and 24p in 800 ISO, but 120p i lowered the ISO and BAM! The shots came out beautiful. I highly suggest watching his video on it as he explains it so well showing so many tests he did
Thank you, I will search him and check it out for sure. Always up for learning more tips so appreciate the detailed comment.
@@Altcine youre welcome! Yes, check it out because it blew my mind and had to try it myself and i couldnt believe it
Dope content thanks bro!! What about in 24fps or 30fps.. still +2.0 exposure?
Thanks bro. It's not always necessary...it's a thing you have to judge depending on the scene. Definitely not if you have lots of bright lights or harsh sun.
Well explained & well produced video. Thank you.
Thank you, much appreciated.
Constantly learning from you sir have a blessed day and thanks for your work 🙏
Thank you so much 🙏🏾
I'm not sure what everyone else is doing but I shoot almost exclusively in 120fps since I've been primarily filming my track practices and when we're outside there's no noise at all. When we're practicing inside however, that's another story.
Yeah I'm not sure either. Inside is difficult but not impossible but I still think people shouldn't bash it because they bought the wrong camera.
I think a lot of people don't realise that in a7siii and other Sony hybrids that there's tons of noise reduction going on and they try to compare s35 to ff.....it's mad.
@@AltcineI think that's the case in many situations. People are trying to find reasons why they may or may not have made the wrong purchase without taking into account the different sensors. I knew that I wouldnt have the same low light performance but I also knew that I wouldn't be shooting much in low light.
I felt like I was watching a Netflix mystery documentary, great work!
😁 thank you.
Incase you missed it, ALL the garden shots are in 100p (I said it vocally). The flame gun shot is also 100p.
Great advice. Thanks for sharing.
I am really surprised why you don't just use CineEI properly? 2500 Base ISO, 640 Exposure Index and you will get the exact same results while keeping a proper preview. Very important to use normal CineEI and not use CineEI Quick, it will not give you that option! Base idea is right though, you need to ETTR with the FX30, and I wasn't aware of the reason for the bad 120/100 fps noise, which you did a great job to explain!
i only got 6600/rx100vii and ive noticed the warmer/hotter they get, the more noise creeps in!
Yes this is correct and you'll see this on so many other cams too. It's important to keep the sensor cool to avoid this.
For example, on the original Blackmagic pocket camera Vs the micro, the micro was a lot less noisy because the fan is cooling the the boards and sensor.
It's something a lot of people overlook when comparing the fx30 Vs the new ZVE1.
Too many sheep just blindly follow that 180° rule : law gospel without understanding it.
Really great video thanks!
My pleasure and Thank you for your comment.
May I kindly ask what sd card are you using for 120fps?
For upto 100fps I use Kingston v90 for anything higher I use Pergear cf-express A.
I did a review on them recently very affordable.
@@Altcine thank you
One more tip for slow motion: use 360 angle instead 180. If you want to film 60fps then use 60 shutter instead 120. It’s much more natural then you easily can use it as 24fps without crazy shutter image and finally you have + 1 stop on exposure.
Thanks for this. I always use False Color for accuracy. I don't really shoot in higher frame rates, but this video is helpful for if I do. I'm currently on a Sigma 18-50 MM, but I'll check out Sigma's faster lenses. Thanks again!
Thank you for commenting. Yes false colour is definitely the best way and agree it's best for accuracy. Please do check out the faster lenses as they make so much difference to day or night time shooting.
Nice - but I really wish you would post all camera settings for your sets. Thank you
I replied thinking it was canon but it's FX30 lol
Camera settings, they changed all the time depending on what and where I'm shooting. Far to many variables to give a definitive setting.
@@Altcine You may just say: S-Cinatone / ISO 640 ..etc.. Stating ISO is important as all the talk about FX30 is about how grainy footage you get using certain ISOs .... That will give viewer better idea what settings produce what results. Thx!
@@elmono3939 yeah that's true. It says on the screen that I'm in CineEi so there's only 2 iso values but I guess people could miss that.
Love this, great information! I recently filmed a podcast with my FX30 (first official project on the camera), and made the large mistake of not over exposing bc I thought it looked fine on my monitor 😂. The best part is, my subject was wearing a black tshirt 🤦🏻♀️
Thank you Phoebe 😀🙌🏾 don't worry too much, it happens to all of us. I bet you're beating yourself up over it but I'm sure you can get it looking acceptable in post.
Great video! But it looks like UA-cam's color compression really blends the noise together, such that even noisy footage doesn't actually look very noisy compared to viewing the same video file on my hard drive. Am I crazy? I feel like I'm just now noticing this.
Would you recommend the fx30 for a travel camera? Just worry about ISO at night but don’t want to spend over $4k for an fx3 setup!
Hmmm, it depends. It's definitely not a NO light camera but can do well in streets etc at night if you have some fast lenses like f1.4
The thing about traveling is you usually want to travel light and that means a zoom lens is the best option but I think they only come in at around f2.8
I think you'll find some decent travel videos shot on the fx30 but remember that people only share the best shots. I personally would look elsewhere if it was just for travel.
@@Altcine thanks! I want to film family, mini docs for work (school teacher), sports, and travel! Was looking at canon r8 but felt fx30 may be best for my needs. Open to suggestions. And if you think fx30 is a good buy for needs curious what lens you’d suggest
You definitely can do all of that, just pick wisely when to use sLog3 Vs cinetone.
You can go slightly higher than the 2500iso but you will need to use noise reduction.
I suggest getting the sigma 1.4 primes. I got the 16mm & 30mm for £390 used in great condition and I use them for nearly all my work.
I highly suggest you pick up the 16mm just for lowlight. The clear image zoom works well if you want to punch in without much loss of quality if it's too wide but please get that lens first.
I see a lot of people complaining about low light then I find they have f2.8 lens which is mostly great but you definitely will need more at night.
@@Altcine love it! So any f stop during the day or well lit places and 1.4 or faster primes for low light. T artisans has fast f stop I think.
Yeah that's right. I actually use a cheap kit zoom in the daytime for certain shots and that f3.5 to f5.6
I actually forgot to ask about manual focus lenses. If you're ok with that then there's soooo many more options.
Sony is confusing every one of us. Don't get that ...
So, is this exposing for s-log?
Thx.! (from Tulsa, Oklahoma). Seemed insurmountable but now seems obvious.!??! "Brilliant" solution.!! Thanks again.!!
Ohhh the famous Tulsa 🙌🏾
Yeah it is quite obvious and thank you.
Thanks a lot! I have tried for a long time to get better 100fps results. But I have struggled. This video might not solve all issues, but it have given me some ideas, maily because you put words on my thoughts (like: hmm how much should i overexpose). Also Id just like to so tell you that you are a very good educator - makes it so easy to understand.
Hey, thank you for the feedback, very kind of you. I like what you said about not solving all issues but gives you some ideas.
The truth is, every situation is different so we need different approaches to working with light...even with a full frame sensor.
Will 120 work with S I / Slog3? I can’t get the option to show up with the best possible codec.
I think only in NTSC
I'm filming interiors mostly for real estate. What about 60fps? Do we still need to bump up to +2? Would this setting be clean - 60fps ISO2500 +2?
That's impossible to say as all interiors will vary in available light.
Also at +2 stops, you risk blowing out your highlights of the windows.
I always say that you have to test methods yourself and then you'll know wether to expose at 1, 1.7 or 2
Great & the Logic Holds! 😎😎
💯🙌🏾
So downsampling works if you film 4k at 60fps or less. What if I film at 1080p? Still 6k downsample? How do I know it is working?
I don't think the downsampling works at all on 1080p, the quality isn't that great imo.
I'd rather use the most heavily compressed 4k and render the final in 1080p.
Shittttt my bad for my language but that’s looks sharp ! So what about for DCI 24p?
Thank you 😅 I don't know what's worse reading bad language or hearing it 🙈
I've only tried Dci 4k but only a couple times when trying anamorphic. I'm going to safely assume the that the rules still apply as it's the sensor we're talking about.
i have fx 30
Solid camera
Try ISO 200 when shoting 120fps on FX30, there is less noise than in base ISO
Yeah that's one way. Depending on the location you will sacrifice Dynamic range but I guess it would be clean. I've started using Flexible iso in dark places now with lower iso and it does work well....image just looks a bit crushed though.
*Do you Use an ND Filter indoors? or just use lights?*
I have used Nd filter indoors for talking head when I wanted to keep aperture wide open but I don't use it often. Just depends on what the desired look is
Why is are you on variable shutter 100.3? 😭
You don't know what variable shutter is for?
@@Altcine you don’t know the minimum shutter for 120fps?
@@NewsMoto I know, I'm just asking you if you know know what variable shutter is for!
To answer your question, I was filming somewhere the day before and I had issues with the lighting so I had to adjust the shutter and didn't change it for this video because it wasn't relevant to what I was talking about.
Double the framerate is always advised but you don't always have to stick to it.
@@NewsMoto anyway, it's irrelevant. Let's just stick to the topic of the video please. Thanks
My a6400 has pretty bad performance in 1080p at 25 or 100 fps even though it also has the 6k to 4k down sampling.
I need to do some more experimenting like this to see if I can get some better quality out of it.
On another note why does everyone now call the frame rate “p” ?
P usually means progressive as in 1080p and frame rate is usually always expressed as fps, so saying 120p doesn’t make sense to me. I’m hearing a lot of UA-camrs especially Americans saying p for frame rate now what am I missing ?
I think that's because the a6400 doesn't have a bsi sensor (I'm guessing) but bsi sensor do perform better.
I think for you the best bet is to stay at a very low iso but I know this will be very challenging in certain lighting situations.
The same applies to fx30. You can get noise free hfr in normal pp with low iso but then you sacrifice the dynamic range and the goodness of sLog3 cine...the reason most people choose the camera.
I'm confused by the P too. You can see it when I'm talking, like I almost feel like I'm not sure. Really need to go back to saying just FPS.
@@Altcine Thanks 👍🏻 I know the a6400 isn’t quite the right camera for the kind of quality I’m after but I’m also really hesitant to change it just yet when I think what I really would be needing is an A7SIII or FX3 but the FX3 price is almost insane for what I do. A lot of the time I just use a GoPro 11 🤣 because it does all I want it just lacks the top end quality of a decent lens camera. I have a BMPCC4K which is amazing picture quality but it’s honestly too big a rig to use most of the time which is why I reverted to the a6400 for trialling the GoPro replacement. I’m not a film maker either so it could get out of hand really easily but I just want a wider than APSC FOV (MFT with Speedbooster isn’t enough) with minimal distortion, 4k 100fps in a small package that I don’t have to rig out too much 🤣
Regarding the “P” I’m glad I’m not the only one I thought I was going mad 😜 👍🏻👊🏼
Although I think it’s probably going to have to be an FX3 not sure it’s wise to invest in the A7SIII at this point 😬
Because 60p and 60i are different things, even though the frame rate is the same.
@@Tugela60 I don’t think any UA-camr or film maker who doesn’t work in broadcast television is going to be thinking in terms of interlaced, so I can’t see that being the reason.
THAT WAS THE BEST UA-cam EXPLANATION I HAVE SEEN SO FAR... AMONG ALL THE TOP UA-camRS
Ahhh thank you man. I keep hearing you don't need to overexpose anymore but I just can't get it to work in high frame rates and I've tried many times.
Very useful video! Thank you! 🙂
@@penorvoll thank you for commenting 🙌🏾
Thanks for the great demo and useful info!
Thanks for letting me know it was useful and I hope it’s helpful to you in the future.
thank you for a very useful hint, sir!!! thank you sooo much!!!!!!
Thank you for the comment and I really hope this video helps.
Nice video
Very good video! Subscribed! Much more interesting and informative than other channels! ❤
I just bought Sony. fx30, but I'm not able to see 120P, it only displays 50P, 25P and 100P, do you know why ?
I think in PAL mode you'll only see 100fps max. In NTSC it'll show up.
I think you can go higher in pal if you use S&Q mode but you will capture and playback in slow motion and it won't have any sound.
@@Altcine Are you saying when I capture in NTSC, it will not capture audio, say if I go 120 frames per second and NTSC mode? please advise. Thanks
You're using CINE EI, so, you don't want to put a filter in front of the lens before lowering that EI first, (1000EI on 2500 base for example) so you can shoot the highest exposure value (of course you'll have to lower exposure in post. Never shoot a higher EI than the base ISO, always lower
At 3:54 it appears that you're shooting in CineEI. Which means you're limiting yourself to 800 and 2500 ISO. Another solution I found through another YT creator, is to shoot in Flexible ISO and lower the ISO below 800. Here is the video: ua-cam.com/video/_vbsgNP1y6w/v-deo.html
Hey I just watched this and this wouldn't work for me. Shooting at that low an iso and crushing the dynamic range is the opposite of why I brought the camera.
It's interesting that he says you should never shoot hfr in cineEi 🤔 it's absolutely fine to do this as long as you have the right gear, lenses, light conditions etc.
If you don't have the right stuff then his way will work but then that would make the image very standard looking.
@@Altcine Sure. For basic shots, the other technique can work. But, if you want to color grade, etc., then yes you want more control.
@@Altcine I'm not an expert, but in my tests, I don't think you're actually losing dynamic range, you're just shifting where the dynamic range is allocated. In fact, I get exactly the same results shooting in ISO 200 as I do shooting in Cine EI base 800 at 200 EI (for example). Sony has a chart illustrating how the allocation of dynamic range shifts as you change EI values, but I really think changing the ISO has the same effect. Blackmagic Design has a similar chart, but instead of EI, which it obviously doesn't have, it shows how the stops of dynamic range shift with the ISO. I don't know if that made any sense but I'm working on a video about it now 🤞
Hey Phillip, I will definitely watch your video to get a clearer understanding of what you mean. I think it comes down to how you grade so if the pictures are a standard conversion like in this video then I gues they would look the same. Again, I'll definitely watch your vid for more insights 🙌🏾
Remember, look at the lens not the LCD!
🙌🏾🙌🏾
Really insightful video! Had my eye on an fx30 for a while now, but was worried about the low light!
thanks for the info.. can't wait to try it out.
No probs, thank you. Please try it...it's really good.
Fantastic tip, thank you!!
Awesome, I hope it works out for you 🙌🏾
Cool IMCE great reflexion that is obvious but hardly never the topic of a video !
(a very very small feedback : can you use a wider lens when you film yourself ?) Also the FX30 shots 02:25 on night look outstanding !!!
Yes it's so obvious bro.
Am I too much in your face 😅 noted, I'll go wider next time for sure.
Yeah those shots came out great. It's for a music video that's about to be released. Was my first time using the SLR magic anamorphot 40 on a project and I'm pleased with the results.
@@Altcine Yeah look really boujee !
For the shot that because Im really closed to a 4K 32" monitor so Its really in front of me litterally haha
😂😂 ok cool
@@Altcine 😂 that's so funny. I noticed the shot being pretty close too but I'm a guy who doesn't mind being face to face with people (I don't strongly dislike) in real life, so 🤷🏻. But yeah, people who need more space might actually be uncomfortable watching a continuous close shot like this haha. But again, I don't mind and I don't think it's wrong per se. I actually like it now that I think about it, feels more personal.
Also I'm watching it on my phone. Hard to get intrusive when you're literally the size of a hamster.
thank you sir for this info
No probs 🙌🏾
It would be nice to see some example footage with comparisons. In this video I couldnt tell which clips were taken at 120p or if it hand any. Were the noise example clips taken at 120p? It didn't look like it to me. The FX30 footage is great until I watch 120p footage, which seems unusable even in bright daylight.
The scene I'm holding the flamethrower is 100p. The ones in my garden I actually say they are 100p. I didn't put it in text because I said it vocally.
EDIT are you saying it didn't look like it because of how slow it is? If yes, it's because I edited this on a 50fps timeline and only slowed the clips 50%.
It doesn't matter how much you slow it down, the quality is still the same. Just try my method when you have time.
I'm actually glad you said this as it means my method is good 😁
@@Altcine Thanks for the response. The garden footage does look fairly clean and detailed, the night time flamethrower looks clean but unfortunatly not very detailed, like it's 720p or something. I was going to get an FX30 but ended up getting the A7SIII since I really wanted to have clean 120p for wildlife. Since your method demands a very low aperature, it might not work on a telephoto lens. Would be nice to see if you can get it clean on a telephoto (400 ~ 600mm lens) however.
No probs, yeah the flamethrower was a recycled download from my other video using an online downloader. It's a clip from my Sony fx30 cinematic beast video.
The a7s3 is still fantastic till this day and honestly, I would say to most people to pick it up before any crop sensor if you aren't doing studio productions and lighting.
So in this scenario I think you made the right choice.
@@Altcine thanks! It's nice to see a video that actually addresses the fx30's 120p issues - I find it hard to even find decent example clips. If Sony could address the issues with 100/120p on the fx30, with perhaps a firmware update, then I would definatley consider it - since a crop sensor is great for wildlife. I say this becuase even the GH6 has super clean 4k 120p and its sensor is even smaller! So it can be done. Anyway, thanks for posting!
Would you suggest the Eos M or FX30. I own the M50 and i really would love to use your Hollywood cine kit. I am considering to purchase eos m and dive into magic lantern as a first time user. I love the results i see here and would like to find an affordable solution for video.
I think for around $520 us i could own both. Probably the best deal i will ever find for a nice looking cine cam
Hi,
Whilst the colour bit depth is higher on the eos-m it really is no comparison to the fx30.
The fx30 has superb image, works flawlessly and tons of great features that help to simplify shooting.
The m is a very cheap cam capable of great things when you have good lighting but for more complex shooting it might not be so easy. Plus all footage needs transcoding etc.
I would still buy it because it can get the job done but it does come with caveats.
Good Info. Thank you. 👍
No probs mate, thanks for the feedback 👍🏾👍🏾
What are the standard frame rates used in the UK? Is it shot in PAL/25 and speed is changed to 24? Or is it shot in 24 and working around the flicker issues using shutter angle?
We are pal and I shoot in 25,50 & 100 only.
@@Altcine nice one thank you
Cheers mate✊
No probs, Thank you 🙌🏾
Which fast lens is that f1. 2 ?
Sirui Nightwalkers and Snipers are all F1.2
Thank You😊
Great video. Thanks!
Following this instruction, what is the best shutter speed?
Thank you. You can increase shutter to let in more light but it will affect the way the image looks so it depends what look you're going for.
Honestly I'd say stick to the natives and use fast lenses but you can experiment.
Thanks
Thanks for commenting 🙌🏾
Brilliant video thanks.👍
Thank you 🙌🏾
thank you ❤🤘🏻
🙌🏾🙌🏾
Thank you very much.
You are welcome!
Nice 👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you
Thank you.
My pleasure
stay back, man
With the cine EI giving us only 2 options of ISO makes it more like a film camera where you only have limited option of gain. Definitely makes you a better DP and filmmaker.
Absolutely! It actually simplifies using the cam. I believe the fx30 has the same iso values as the Venice.
@@Altcine yes it does!
Thought so 👍🏾👍🏾