Propane and Gas Conversion Basics (How to)
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- Propane and Gas conversion tips and tricks. This video demonstrates how blank propane or gas orifices are drilled for use in stoves, cooktops, ovens and bar-b-ques. The video uses a bar-b-que as an example, but this information can pertain to any gas or propane stove, range or cooktop.
Best gas conversion video on UA-cam!
Thanks for the vote of confidence, Mark. I've seen some of the other videos out there, SCARY! There are likely other's out there who know what they're doing, but they're NOT on UA-cam as far as I can see. Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of bar-b-que and stove made. I'm now in the Midwest, so feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544.
much respect to you i deal with food service equipment and this is an art and science.
I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544.
Kudos to you. I've certainly done my share of commercial equipment for restaurant and food wagons.
Hey frank thanks for the reply. We put a water heater in for my bosses Ex wife and we didn’t realize she had propane. Total nightmare. Thanks again
I've done propane water heaters before. Let me know if you can't source the parts to do this conversion. You can always call me at 714-574-1544.
I have an AO Smith water heater that I want to switch from propane to natural gas. What is the orifice size and where is it located?
At 5:30, when the world ends, he doesn’t skip a beat. True professional ;)
LOL
Wow that was very awesome! I’m glad you took the time to explain how time involved of a procedure this is and what’s involved.
I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544.
Great info! Right now I’m struggling to find the original NG orifices that came with my 4 year old stove. It looks as if the installers took the parts with them when they converted it to LP and now Natural Gas is available in our neighborhood so I want to switch! GE can only sell me the gas tube assemblies with the orifices in them.
I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544.
Do you have to listen to those train bells all damn day?? That would drive me instane!
Also, great video lol. I've been researching converting my brother in law's somewhat late model Char Broil grill (designed for propane and NOT dual fuel) so that he can use the natural gas stubout on his new house.
No kidding. Wonder if he can convert a BBQ to run on Methylamine:)
Great video! Thanks!!!
hi frank, thanks for responding. i tried to respond to your reply via youtube but was unsuccessful. i needed a pressure reg for my last conversion but the current stove appears to have one that allows a switch to propane . it appears that the current orifices are way too big but the switch in settings may remedy that.
I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544.
Make sure to like and subscribe to my video channel.
A fuel conversion requires at least two things: a swap in regulators (or a conversion of he current regulator) and different orifices. Feel free to call me and I'll get your straightened out on this conversion.
Hello Frank--
I bought a1966 O'keefe & Merritt gas stove and the seller was using propane gas; I have natural gas in my house. I've looked far and wide to buy replacement burner orifices for natural gas but coming up with none; my search leads me to believe that either the stove is too old and the orifices are no longer manufactured or that I'm looking for something that does not really exist.
The instruction manual that came with the stove (yes, the previous owner kept the original manual) references instructions on conversion from NG to LP as follows "... a) Non-pressure regulated models, screw oven, broiler, and top valve orifice hoods down until needle closes hole in hood and adjust air shutters... b) pressure regulated models, remove pressure regulator and use same procedure as in "a"."
On a prior paragraph, the manual reads "...All ranges are equipped with orifice needles with hole in them for LP gas. All ranges leave the factory adjusted for natural gas. On ranges with a pressure regulator, range is factory pre-adjusted; normally no adjustments are required."
I have verified at this point that the stove does not have a regulator at all (the instruction manual notes that some models are pressure regulated with the regulator placed at the end of the manifold (4" W.C. and 3/4" female I.P.S.) while others are without the regulator and the manifold end is 3/4" I.P.S); the gas line connects directly to the manifold WITHOUT a regulator in-between. The previous owner does not know if the stove was originally fit with a regulator; naturally, during the conversion to LP, the regulator would have been removed according to the instructions above.
I'm in the process of cleaning the stove (basically taking it apart and cleaning every nook and cranny--I'm eager to see to get the stove into my kitchen and working. As I said before, I have natural gas and I'm at the point where I have easy reach to the manifold and the burner valves; I'm there where the orifices are located but need help in determining what to do about them.
My questions are as follows: 1) is a regulator required for natural gas installation? I've seen them on line and they're not too expensive and can allow for "easy" conversion from NG to LP and vise-versa; mind you, I don't every plan in having LP. This is another question that I've researched on the internet and have not derived a clear answer.
2) do I need a different orifice that what the stove came equipped with? Is the adjustment in the conversion simply by tightening or loosening the orifice hood? The orifice hood bears markings of 52 and 68 on the sides...I'm not sure what these numbers mean or why there are two different numbers.
I apologize for the lengthy discourse; and I apologize too if the question is "dumb" but I'm learning as I go. Your help is truly appreciated.
Robert
I've done quite a few vintage stoves and I have orifices for everything made. Maybe you can pull an orifice and send me a pic. You can contact me at 714-574-1544.
Thanks for your help. We are currently talking with you on eBay about changing from propane to natural gas. Our shove is a Kitchen Aid. Vikki and Elmer
Feel free to give me a call at 714-574-1544. Remember that I'm on the West Coast when you call, so call during normal business hours.
You do good work. Thanks.
Awesome job thank you
You are so precise I would think you would put the orifice in a vise & then have the chuck mounted perpendicular to the orifice & then you can hand drill straight !
You likely missed the spirit of this video. I don't ever use a drill motor to bore orifice holes because these holes will distort under higher speeds. I use a pin vise to hold the drill bit while I'm boring it out to the final size. A precision job on the final size is only achieved by gradually creeping up to that size one bit at a time. I also bore holes in the custom orifices and jets that I make on my lathe at very low speeds. If I'm boring a much smaller hole (like a #87, for example), I'll do this in one operation, otherwise I'll still bore a pilot hole, then hand bore to larger sizes. Feel free to contact me during normal West Coast business hours at 714-574-1544.
What size orifice do i need for a Dearborn DRC-25A N? Someone converted this room heater to propane but I want to use natural gas.
Thanks for the video! I am gonna convert my dearborn to propane! Because I don't get natural gas. Everything in the house right now is electric!🙃
I likely have the orifices you'll need to convert most if not all of your appliances. I'm on the West Coast, so feel free to contact me during normal business hours of 9 to 5 at 714-574-1544.
Hi Frank, great video! I'm working on a propane oven and I am sometimes getting a flame in the air shutter. Is it possible that a dirty orpheus is causing this? Thankyou in advance for any help.
If the burner is making an unusual noise, then the cause is a perforation (leak) in the burner tube.
Hello Frank..... Hears a question I doubt you have heard before.
We have a house in the US out in the country (West Virgina style). All around our farm there are Gas wells & Oil wells. On our farm there are 5 Oil wells. The oil wells also make some Gas. The gas BTU off the Oil wells is approx. 1,900 BTU.
Per. terms of the Oil lease we (the property owners) are entitled to free gas to our home. I would like to utilize the free gas but I'm unsure if Natural Gas Hot water heaters, Furnaces, Stoves & Dryers would operate correctly on the high ~1,900 BTU Gas without modifications.
I know manufactures make conversion kits from Nat. Gas to L.P. ....... But what about from normal Nat Gas (IE: 1050 BTU) to High 1900 BTU gas ....... but not as high as Propane @ 2500 BTU.
You sound like you might have some insight into my Issue.
Thanks,
RDS
Hi, great information. Thank you.
How do I calculate what the proper final orifice hole size should be? I am converting an outdoor turkey fryer burner, older nice heavy cast iron burner that is currently. propane, converting to natural gas? Later, I would like to ask about required plumbing pipe diameter volume/pressure and regulator type/size. Thank you for sharing.
Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of barbeque and stove made. I'm now in the Midwest, so feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544.
There are plenty of orifice calculators on the internet. Unfortunately, to do it safely, you'll need to know the actual BTU of your burners because manufacturers often lie about the true BTU of their burner systems. To do this, you'll need the numbers stamped on the orifice and output of your current fuel regulator. This will enable you to calculate the actual BTU of that burner. Typically, a burner is typically about 8 to 10 percent less than what the stated value is. So a burner rated at ten 10,000 BTU would actually be about 9,200 BTU.
To further complicate things, manufacturers often use a lesser BTU for propane than they do for natural gas. You'll usually see this stated on the label. However, this is not usually the case on commercial products.
Hi Frank, great vid, have a potable propane heater 6 thousand btu to 18 thousand btu it has 3 ceramic burners on the front, I believe each ceramic burner is 6 thousand btu's, the propane orfice size is 0.72 wanting to convert to natual gas what size of orfice's will I need 3 orfices in total, does the pilot need to be changed as well or no? Thx Dave.
I actually carry orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544.
Here's an orifice boring chart from Andersen Forrester: andersonforrester.com/conversion-chart/
Nothing like precision, WOW, interesting background noise !
Trains
Great video. Bought a blackstone 36” w/ airfryer. Says it’s not able to be converted to natural gas. If I bored out the holes by 1 or 2 drill sizes, do you think that would be enough? They say the airfryer won’t get to temp. I am at 6,000 feet altitude. Thank you in advance
I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544.
I can only speak in generalities here because I don't know everything there is to know about your setup. Here's a link to a conversion table from Andersen Forrester: andersonforrester.com/conversion-chart/ This is oversimplifying what really needs to be done, but it will give you a general idea, albeit, there is the altitude to factor in. The charts I use take this into account, but those charts are not available on the internet. If I had to venture an educated guess, I would say that the orifice should likely be bored one size smaller than what would normally be calculated at sea level for this setup. But again, there may be other factors to consider.
To further complicate this situation, there's likely a deficit between the sated factory stated BTU of your unit and the actual BTU. You would really need to reverse calculate the numbers using the size of the current orifice for propane with the rated output of the regulator factoring in the altitude. If your grille uses propane with a small bottle mounted underneath, it's likely that regulator is rated at 11" WC. At any rate, you can see how such an endeavor (converting a grille to another gas) could become a slightly complex affair.
I purchased a manifold for my weber grill changing from LP to Natural gas. I heard you say in your video that some have different numbers. This one had 102 for LP and 148 for natural. No charts for this that I can find. confused
I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544.
Hi Frank. I have an early 1900's cast iron cook stove, similar to a Glenwood stove, that is supposedly set up for natural gas. I would like to convert it to propane. The stove has hooded orifices just like the one in your video. The number stamped on them is a 99 (or a 66), not sure if you read it right side up or upside down. Do you sell orifices with a smaller hole that I may use to replace the ones I have? I can't search your website because the brand is not listed. Any help would be appreciated.
Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of barbeque and stove made. I'm now in the Midwest, so feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544. You can also visit my website, www.flamesources.com
miss orange county? i live in fountain valley, also a 714 area code. i converted a magic chef i found on the curb to propane. the flame is yellow and far too high. i'm guessin' i need smaller orifices. am i right? the ones in there are huge.
I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544.
Yes. You're likely dealing with orifices that are bored too large for the application and I have replacement orifices for that. If the correct orifices are in place and you still have yellow present in the flame, then you have too much oxygen traveling up the burner tube. You will typically need to trim the burner tube after a conversion to balance out the oxygen/fuel mixture.
I am converting a Weber 410 Genesis from propane to natural gas . I am going to driller orfice to # 52 ? Any recommendations ? I love your video .
I actually carry orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544. Make sure to like and subscribe to my channel.
You can use the following chart to figure this out: www.johnstonesupply.com/orifice-chart BTW - the natural gas in your home is typically rated at 7" WC.
I have a GE Adora that was converted to LP.
What are the original Orifice Buds diameters to convert it back to NG?
I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544.
Without any information, I can't actually give you a blanket recommendation on what size those orifices need to be bore to. I would definitely consider keeping the propane orifices in the event that you decide to move the unit to a place where propane is the norm.
Here's a link to an orifice boring chart from Anderson Forrester: andersonforrester.com/conversion-chart/
Keep in mind that the average burner is listed at 8% higher on the manufacturer's label than the actual output of what it's capable of. This is likely a marketing ploy by manufacturers to make their burners appear hotter than they actually are in the real world, so you'll want to bore your orifices to be 8% cooler than what they are advertised on the label. Also note that, in most cases, natural gas heat ratings are advertised as hotter on the label. If you look at the manufacturer's label on your unit, you'll likely see that is the case. There are few exceptions to this rule, but, by and large, this is the case with most manufacturers. Since GE is your manufacturer, that is definitely the case with the burner's vs the label on your unit.
great instructional video.
Thanks.
Hello Frank, I have a one year old AO Smith water heater that I'm going to have to convert from LP to NG, is that doable? Thx
Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of barbecue and stove made. I'm now in the Midwest, so feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544.
Having said that, I've also done water heaters from time to time. There's a chance that the parts on your unit are custom. In which case, I would need to fabricate parts on my lathe. Also, that unit likely has a pilot generator/regulator which would require a different regulator component. Traditionally, a majority of these units were made by Robertshaw and Honeywell, but a host of other companies have entered the market, so we'll need to analyze what system controls your unit.
Know anything about the old Martin U-1116 gas heaters? Found one brand new that had been stored for decades, would like to convert it to propane, but the burner has about 100 holes...
The burner is likely fed a steady gas supply by a single orifice or multiple orifices. I've done orifices for just about everything made, so feel free to contact me. I've moved to the Midwest , and you can always get a hold of me during normal Midwest business hours at 714-574-1544.
Hi Frank, I have an old Garland 10 burner range that I want to covert from NG to LP, what size orifice should I use? Thanks!!
I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544.
In many cases, those vintage stoves were "field convertible," meaning that the orifices were simply adjustable to convert from one gas to another. Here's a link to a video that explains this type of orifice: ua-cam.com/video/JzcZ-yskLxA/v-deo.html Make sure to "like" and "subscribe to my video channel when you visit.
The wedges that were used on these orifices fall into two categories: those that are blanks and those with specific holes in them to exactly flow the correct amount of fuel once the orifice body is jammed onto them. On an older stove like that garland, it's possible that the wedge IS NOT bored, so you may need to adjust it to flow the correct amount of fuel. Keep in mind that the end result should be a well balanced flame.
Frank, I have a natural gas range that we converted to propane. We now have natural gas but I am missing 2 of the orifices. I can’t find anywhere to purchase natural gas orifices. Even the manufacturer LG can’t help me. Any suggestions on what to do??
I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544.
Very good video, let me ask you to convert propane to natural gas the orifice has to be always smaller?
Generally speaking, you'll use a lower numbered orifice if you're converting something from propane to natural gas, however, where numbered drill bits are concerned, the lower the number, the larger the drill bit. Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I have every type of every type of orifice made for every type of barbecue and stove their is. I'm now in the Midwest, so feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544 during normal Midwest business hours.
Hi frank any chance you can help me with my conversion and determining the right size to drill out for low to NG?
@caseythompson2347 Here's a link to a propane conversion chart: andersonforrester.com/conversion-chart/ I carry propane conversion parts for every barbecue and stove made. Feel free to call me at 714-574-1544.
Screw on an adaptor before drilling to prevent wobbling. Screw into threads of orifice to be # stamped, an adaptor to prevent hammering from distorting the perfect hole.
I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544.
Actually. Orifices should be bored on a lathe to insure no distortion, but since most people don't have a lathe to their access like I do, they can simply use a pin vise to bore the hole. Most gas tech's would do it this way. My suggestion is to gradually work your way up to the recommended size one or two sizes at a time. If you do that, you can be relatively assured that the hole is true.
Hi frank I have a 1940 ish garland gas stove and I also would like to change orifices but I can not find make and modle other then it's a 6 banner with griddle .dubble stove can you help thanks
I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544.
I have purchased a flat Toastmaster Pro grill series, TMGM48 from someone. The person, I purchased it from converted from original natural gas to Propane. So now I am trying to converted back to natural gas. Can you please tell me where can I get orifices and what size of the hole it should be ? What made it more challenging is this American company is out of business - thanks in advance
Those are likely parts that I have in my extensive inventory. If not, I can machine the parts Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of barbecue and stove made. I'm now in the Midwest, so feel free to contact me during normal Midwest business hours at 714-574-1544.
@@frankhamilton8257 Thank you Frank. I will call you on Monday
I'm going to find a pro in my area (NYC) to do this but I want see if I understand what math. Converting a propane grill to NG. Gas supply is .25psi. 5 burner grill is 7.5k btu per burner. Needs orifice size 56.
Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of barbecue and stove made. I have conversion parts for everything. I'm now in the Midwest, so feel free to contact me during normal Midwest business hours at 714-574-1544.
When you're talking about fuel ratings, the common vernacular is expressed in terms of inches of water column or WC. Here's a link to a conversion chart: andersonforrester.com/conversion-chart/
hi, i bought a gas grill with 6 burners and the flame in big and yellow on top... if i drill bigger holes in orifice i will have better results? or i have to buy onother orifices with smaller holes?
Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of bar-b-que and stove made. I'm in the MidWest, so feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544.
It sounds like you're converting FROM natural gas TO propane. Either way, it sounds like you'll need to replace the orifices to get the type of flame you're looking for. I've likely done more than 60,000 grilles at this point, so I likely have the orifices you'll need to complete this conversion.
i have a Bosch 300 series... hard to find parts. would these blanks fit ? id drill em out if i knew where to find them...
Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of bar-b-que and stove there is. I'm on the West Coast, so feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544. I have the parts for everything made. If not, I can machine the needed parts, it's just a matter of finding out what you have.
I'm trying to find Dyna-glo orifices which have an M8 1mm thread pitch. Can't find them anywhere. Any sources?
I've done Dyna-glo conversions before from the extensive inventory that I carry. Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of barbecue and stove made. I'm now in the Midwest, so feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544.
Awesome video. I have a Weber summit S-420 I am converting. What drill bit size would you use for this 12000 BTU model. I have a numbered drill set and a hand drill.
Also do I need a NG regulator. I read it both ways. Some say yes some no.
Some states require the use of a fuel regulator on an outdoor grille, some do not. I'm all about best practices, so I always recommend a regulator. This is your last line of defense. Typically, a fuel regulator is designed to shut off the fuel supply if the system developes a gas leak and goes open loop. The very use of such will determine the input rating of the fuel supply and will affect the final bore size of your orifices. I've likely done 30,000 or 40,000 Weber grilles at this point in my career. Anderson Forester has a nice chart that's easy to understand, so you can find it on the web. One more thing. Weber ratings on their burners is inaccurate, so dont take those numbers as gospel. It turns out, this is a rampant industry practice, so all grille manufactures do it except for Jennaire. I carry all manner of orifices for everything made, so feel free to call during normal West Coast business hours - 714-574-1544. Here's the link to the Andersen Forrester chart: andersonforrester.com/conversion-chart/
These are propane accessories.
Good day Mr Hamilton I have a profile grill natural gas 36 in I would like to convert it to LP can you tell me what the offices would be and do you sell them I need 12 can send a picture thank you for your time in this matter love your video
Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of bar-b-que and stove made, so it's likely that I have the parts for this conversion. If not, I'll make them in my machine shop. I'm in the Midwest, so contact me during Central Daylight Time hours of 9 am to 5 pm at 714-574-1544.
What would be the drill bit size for a #55 and #54 lp orifice? Thanks in advance
I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544.
These are numbered orifice sizes, so #55 is smaller than #54, #55 being 0.052 inch and #54 being 0.055 inch. Make sure to like and subscribe to my channel.
Thanks for the Video,,, Sorry for the long entire but a lot to explain for a better understanding of the situation.., I have an Old Coleman 5600 Grill for the late 90's. I inherited from my father who passed away a few months ago...In my new home I have a nature gas line for an outdoor grill; I wish to use the grill in my home. On the units information label it has three different readings for (Lateral Btu of 13000) rating (Principal Btu 65000) rating and (Total 78000 btu) rating. Can you explain the need for all of the different rating and what are their meaning might be... It has a rotisserie on it,... Could that be why it has the different ratings for the different burners? If I wish to convert the unit from Propane to Nature Gas,,, Do I have to take these numbers into consideration when sizing the orifices, and make them different sizes for their applications?
Note: I have spoke to Coleman support offices, They do not recommend Converting the unit to Nature gas..
Hi Frank, I am converting a member Mark grill from natural to Propane, the grill say 18000 btu per orifice…what size orifice do I have to install to make it work? Thanks..
Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of barbecue and stove made. I'm on the West Coast, so feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544.
Generally speaking, propane orifices have a smaller hole in them than natural gas ones do, so, normally you'd need to swap in orifices with a smaller bore, then swap the fuel regulator to get the job done. There are only a few grilles on the market that support burner that are rated at 18,000 BTU per burner, and I seriously doubt that Members Mark is one of them. You'll need to look at the numbers stamped into your orifices to determine what the true BTU actually is per the rating on the fuel that your now using, then use the number that you've determined to be the actual BTU. Remember, manufacturer's usually inflate the actual BTU ratings on their burner systems.
Good morning frank a have a phoenix http 80 gallon propane water heater. It's a commercial. I want to converted to gas and use it at home.The water heater has PVC piping. Is there a way to install it at home.
I have a 18L tankless hot water heater that is set up for Natural Gas and I want to convert it to LP Gas. What would I need to do? Any Help would be appreciated..
You would need to swap the regulator and you would need to change orifices. I have orifices to fit everything, so feel free to call me at 714-574-1544. Remember that I'm on the West Coast when you call.
Hi frank i have a DCS RGS-305ss stove and want to convert it to propane are there any kits out there or do you know what orifices i would need thanks
I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544.
My website is still in the works, so I don't have DCS product available on my website at this time, but I do have the parts. I believe you've contacted me. Is this correct?
Frank. If converting from ng to lp, could you use a regulator to lower the lp to 7"wc and then not have to change it the orifices
Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of barbeque and stove made. I'm now in the Midwest, so feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544.
This is a broad generality. It depends on where the numbers for the natural gas orifices fall as to whether this will work out or not. You would really need to reverse calculate the orifice sizes versus the rated output of the burners. You must also take into account that, as a rule, a manufacturer would design a propane solution to be 7 to 11 percent lower in BTU capability compared to that of a natural gas set up. And there again it totally depends on the manufacturer and the model.
Case in point, a normal rating for a a majority of Viking topside burners is 15,000 BTU, while the propane version of that same burner is 13,500 BTU. This means that the Viking rates their propane burners at 90 percent of what the natural gas burner is rated at. However, these are numbers published by Viking and Viking is interested in publishing numbers that make their product look like it outputs more heat that it actually does in practice. In actuality, if you calculate the heat rating by the numbers (factoring in the size of the bore of the orifices with the rated output of the regulator expressed in Inches of Water Column) that 15,000 BTU commonly calculates to around 13,800 to 13,950 or so. So you'd have to assume a 93 percent efficiency for that 13,500 BTU would factor out to 12,500.
There are very few manufacturer's who actually publish accurate numbers for their product. One of these products/manufacturers combination is the Jennair grille. I've found, over the years that, by and large, you can trust the numbers on a Jennair grille. I'm likely the only person in the industry who sticks to this practice, because, if you inadvertently have a fire caused by your appliance, and an investigator does his due diligence, it's possibly my ass on the line, and I NEVER do a conversion without seeing a shot of the manufacturer's label and the numbers stamped into the manufacturer's orifices.
Hi, great video, I have a 21000 btu char broil using propane, I want to convert to natural gas...do you know what size orifices I would need , what drill size to use? I just have two burners. They look like screw type and very small. Thanks in advance Frank.
Manufacturer's burner ratings are usually inflated, especially on Bar-b-cues. I usually reverse calculate to find out the heat rating, then translate that to the proper bore using the other gas and output rating. I use very specific data to hand calculate my solutions, but I can recommend a general user friendly chart instead. Here's a chart that Anderson Forester has published: andersonforrester.com/conversion-chart/
Hi frank i bought a 3 valve griddle and i need to replace the valves. For 3 valve griddles is the orifice size 57?. Sorry but unfortunately there is no info on what brand it is as it’s completely gone . I plan to use propane. Thanks any info helps or maybe you sell the valves too.
Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of bar-b-que and stove made. I'm now in the Midwest, so feel free to contact me during normal Midwest business hours at 714-574-1544.
So in order to convert from LP to NG I would need a new larger orifice and a different regulator? I wouldn’t have to change out the burner itself right? I’m thinking of converting an old burner I have to NG. The burner was found at the local dump and the orifice is missing.
Most regulators are convertible between natural gas and propane. The orifices will need to be tailored to suit the type of fuel that you're using. Here's a conversion chart to use if you know the BTU rating of your burner: andersonforrester.com/conversion-chart/ The burner itself will not need to be swapped, however the amount of fuel that travels up the burner tube will need to be altered to balance out the recommended air/fuel ratio required to make that burner operate as designed. This is usually achieved by adjusting an air adjustment commonly found on most burners. Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of bar-b-que and stove made. I'm on the West Coast, so feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544.
I bought a storage unit with a Fryer in it. The mfg. placard is scratched up so bad I cant read it. Is there any way to tell if it is set up for LP or natural gas by looking at it?
Yes, the holes bored into the orifices and the regulator will give you an indicator of what it's equipped for. It's a little bit of a guessing game, but it can be done through various deductive methods. I have propane and natural gas conversions for everything made including industrial fryers. Feel free to call me at 714-574-1544.
I am converting a NXR gas grill from LP to NG. What size does the orifice hole need to be? I have tools and numbered bits to change the size.
That's a very general question and there are several variables that will come into play here. I normally do conversions by calculation, but I can send you a chart instead that will assist you in this effort. Here's this link: andersonforrester.com/conversion-chart/
You'll need to backwards calculate the orifices and the rating for LP to find the actual BTU rating of your burners (as opposed to what the manufacturer says the BTU is). Once this is established, you can forward calculate the orifice size based on that BTU rating versus the output rating of the Natural Gas line your feeding the unit from. Keep in mind that many units have a different BTU rating for LP than they do for Natural Gas, so read your label carefully.
I have every orifice made, so feel free to call me if you need me to do this conversion for you at 714-574-1544. Call during normal West Coast business hours (9 to 5).
Hi Frank. I have a 2002 48" Dacor cooktop/oven. I am trying to change over from propane to natural gas. They no longer make the conversion kit. An appliance guy tried to get the orifice sizes from tech support and they wouldn't cooperate. Also said that other parts need to be changed as well and that you can't just change the orifices. Any help on what to do? To replace the unit it costs about 12,000. I need a better option.
I've converted more Dacor ranges than any other brand. I've got quite a few specialty parts exclusively for Dacor. I'm on the West Coast, so make sure you call me during normal business hours - 714-574-1544.
Thanks so much @@frankhamilton8257. You are a lifesaver. I will call this coming week.
@@frankhamilton8257 I will call you
Great video. I have an antique stove I'm converting to propane but I'm having problems finding 3/8-40 orifices. The ones I can find online are 3/8-27. Do you have a source?
I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544.
Are you sure those threads are 3/8-40? That seems like an ultra fine pitch for something with an American thread. Are they orifice hoods with threads on the inside like the ones in this video or are the threads on the outside. Those would be something that I would have to fabricate if the threads are something other than standard pitch.
What's your thoughts about a Mr. Reddy Propane Forced Air Heater 75-125K BTU conversion to Natural Gas ? Thank you.
I've done similar units. Naturally, the orifices need to be swapped, but parts of the control unit also need to be swapped. Feel free to call me, 714-574-1544.
I’m having trouble finding the orifices for the fire table i want to convert to Natural Gas can you please direct me to a solution?
I actually carry orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544. However, I don't carry orifices for heaters or fire tables.
I have a Char-Broil Commercial NG that I'm converting to LP. The NG version comes with no orifices - manifold straight to burner. How do I know which size orifice to use. I know that the orifice head is 9/16 socket size and the bore hole should be #133 or a 55 bit. Just not sure about thread width/size.
Here's a chart published by Johnstone Supply: www.johnstonesupply.com/storefront/tools/orificeChart.ep As rule, Propane orifices have smaller holes than natural gas orifices. I have orifices for everything made, so feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544. Remember that I'm on the West Coast, so call during normal business hours of 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Pacific Standard time.
Hi Frank!
Its a nice video. Great. Please guide can we convert Natural Gas Hybrid Heaters Rennai to propane. Thanks
Yes. This can be easily done. Feel free to contact me during normal business hours at 714-574-1544.
Hello frank i have a dearborn heater what do i need to convert to propane
I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544.
Thanks for your interest. I exclusively do stoves and barbecues, but I don't do heater units.
Hi I’m looking to convert the Members Mark 4 burner griddle to natural gas . How much would you charge me for the orifices?
You can email me i4nishiner@yahoo.com . Thank you
I believe we spoke yesterday. As you may know, I have conversion orifices for everything made. Feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544.
When choosing an orifice size what percentage of difference is the between NG and LP? I sometimes get appliances where there is no manual. It would be nice to pull an orifice from an NG burner and know what percentage smaller is right for LP.
Since manufacturer's burner ratings are usually inflated, I always reverse calculate the heat rating to get an accurate answer using charts from Ward Burner systems. I then forward calculate that heat rating to get my final orifice size for the alternate fuel. Some manufacturers publish cooler burner ratings on the propane side on the manufacturer's labels. I first figure out the propane rating based on the percentage that the natural gas rating is off by. So, if the calculated natural gas rating is off by 5%, I calculate the manufacture's heat rating to 5% less (of the number published on the manufacturer's label) to get a pretty accurate final heat rating number. I then calculate the proper orifice size based on that number.
What size drillbit is for a 106
howdy. I have a 46" dacor drop in cook top that had the igniter melt down. I bought a totally new replacement unit and now have the old one sitting in my garage. Would you like to refurbish it?
Yes, I would love to refurbish the unit. I've done rehabs and conversions on many different unit in the past, but the Dacor brand is the best. Feel free to call me at 714-574-1544. Remember, I'm in the West Coast time zone, so call during normal business hours.
Seems that drilling by hand induces quite a lot of wobble... would think more accurate to have a small power drill, held very precisely, on slow with coolant to make the smoothest and best-centered, short of mounting both in chucks anyway.
Actually, I do the super precision work on a lathe. Normally the best way to do it without a lathe is to use pin vises and drills.
Thanks for sharing your expertise.
I have a VGIC485-6CSS range I am working on converting from Nat to LP.
I believe I need the #57 hooded orifices for this conversion. PB040036
I also need to flip the pressure regulator valve cap, to see LP on the cap.
I also need to adjust the air/gas ration door on the burner assembly to control and get a nice flame, at low setting. The gas knob, after it's been removed has an adjuster screws that controls the flame also.
Is there anything I missed that would cause a problem when converting this stove from Nat to LP?
I've done a load of Viking conversions. You're likely right on the size, but I'll need some info from the manufacturer's tag because those burners have a different rating from gas to propane. Feel free to call me at 714-574-1544.
Hello Frank my name is Harold
My question is I have a kitchen aid BBQ grill that is setup for natural gas but I need lp
Kitchen Aid model KBGS292LSSO any advice. would be helpful thanks.
I actually carry orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544.
I've converted that brand before, but I don't have these orifices on my website just yet. Feel free to reach out.
Hello, I am converting my gas range back to natural gas, I have all but one of the orifices. The burner I am missing the orifice for is rated at 12.5K BTU for natural gas. It currently has a 97 LP orifice installed. What size natural gas orifice do I need? Thanks
Here's an orifice conversion chart from Anderson Forrester: andersonforrester.com/conversion-chart/
hello frank . i just left you a message on your phone. i have converted a BBQTEK Model #GSF2818K (it looks like this company is no longer in business ) from LP to NG. the three conventional burner are working good . the valve on the infrared burner works only one time and does not work again . i have installed a new wire on the striker and i can see the sparks but I believe there is not gas coming from the small pilot orifice . i can light the burner manually and it work fine but not with auto lighting striker . do you have any idea why it works one time and fails after that . the conventional burners are 12000 BUT each and the infrared is 15000 . thanks
Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of barbecue and stove made. I'm now in the Midwest, so feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544.
If you've converted from LP to natural gas,, and your unit has pilot ignitors, then the issue is that the pilot ignitors are bored too small to produce the proper sized flame. You'll need to bore it out to a more appropriate size. If you're not using a regulator, your system can be rated at 7" WC, so use that column on the linked chart that I've attached when recalculating the bore size on your pilot orifice. If you're not sure, simply bore the orifice one or two sizes larger than they are right now, and again, one or two sizes. Unfortunately, I have no way of knowing what the size of your pilot orifice is, but I would suspect that it's somewhere north of a #80. The good news is that you're converting to natural gas, so the orifice will need to go larger. Possibly up to a #80 or perhaps even larger.
Here's a link to an orifice chart that might help: www.johnstonesupply.com/orifice-chart
@@frankhamilton8257 thank you so much for your reply . sorry for replying too late
Hey Frank, I imported by Char-Broil grill from the US to the Netherlands. It is orginally a natural gas grill with a Rotisseri burner at 12000BTU/HR and 3 main burners at 51000BTU/HR. I will connect it to a propane gas tank, as that is just the way they do it in the Netherlands. I think the current orifices are just a little below 2mm (my 2mm drill just doesn't fit). What size of orifice would I need for the propane gas? And would it work if I just close the hole with some tin solder and re-open it with the proper drill? Thanks, Peter.
Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of barbecue and stove made and have all the parts. I'm now in the Midwest, so feel free to contact me during normal Midwest business hours at 714-574-1544.
I'm always leery of solder fixes on orifices because solder is not as consistent as brass when it comes to machining. Remember, you're playing with fire here. You'll want to replace those orifices with new ones bored with proper holes drilled into them to match the ACTUAL BTU rating of those burners. I say ACTUAL because the industry at large tends to embellish their BTU ratings on their equipment. If you calculate the BTU rating on your grille you'll typically find that the BTU is typically 10% less than advertised. Also, a propane burner should ideally be dialed in to output approximately 8% to 10% less heat than the ACTUAL BTU of a natural gas burner. This is industry standard practice.
The other thing you'll need to consider is that not all regulators are equal. Some regulators are designed to output up to 1 PSI which translates to 27 inches of water column (WC). Ideally, on a barbecue, you should be using a regulator rated at 11" WC.
Here's a link to a chart to help you determine what size those orifices should be: qph.fs.quoracdn.net/main-qimg-3062426641a19445a92ccaad0b1320a1
for steel(316) holes which drill bit required...carbidr drill bit or hss twist drill bit?
Hi Frank. Where did you get your drill bit set and how much do they cost...if you don't mind me asking? I have only done one gas range and it's not done yet so I'm not your competition. i'm just looking for a good set of drill bits for drilling steel. Just an fyi there.
I got the large drill set from Harbor Freight Tools and the little drill index from McFaddendale Hardware. Hope this helps.
Frank, I am in a bind here, I see the job you are doing which is meticulous but not so difficult when you have a trade. My challenge is that I have a 2014 Weber genesis 310 series and its old live was natural gas. I know I can buy a new manifold, but I am currently living in Singapore, so I thought about changing the orifices myself! Trouble is, I don't know the thread size of the orifice AND they are hard to find. My question is easy, do you supply what I need? Can I get a DHL or UPS pick up organized, to send to me, or could you send to a friends house in Florida?
When it comes to the Weber Genesis 310 model, there are a couple of sizes your orifices could be. If the knobs are on the side of the grille, the orifices will measure .340 inches across the shank. If the knobs are on the front, the orifices will measure 1/4 inch at the shank (this figure is actually .246 inches). I already know the heat ratings for that grille, as I've converted my fair share of them. If you're using a tank under the grille, your propane regulator is likely rated at 10" WC (24.88 millibar). You'll likely want to supply the regulator since it would be costly to send a regulator along with it. It may be easier to deliver the conversion to your buddy in Forida. Have him call me. I'm on the West Coast - 714-574-1544.
Hi Frank
Is there a way to get a hold of you? Looking for orifices for and rv furnace conversion. Wondering if you do projects like that.
Thank you
I actually carry orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544.
Sorry, I don't handle heaters.
Thanks Frank. On a NG 30,000 BTU blue flame ventless wall heater what # bit do I need to bore out to to run LP gas?
Helping a friend who is cold. Thanks
Normally, if you're converting from NG to LP, you would use an orifice with a smaller hole. You'd also need to change the fuel regulator. Many of these units use a combination gas valve that is a controller which incorporates the regulator, a pilot generator and a safety switch that keeps the main gas valve "on" so long as the flame on the pilot generator is on. The pilot generator function is a safety feature that prevents a massive quantity of unignited gas from entering the plenum and causing a potentially explosive situation (literally). The size of the new hole would be dependent on the rating of the new regulator (usually 10" WC).
Once you have the regulator converted, you can use the numbers on an industry chart to determine the correct size for the orifice. You'll want to calculate the actual heat rating of the current orifice first because the numbers published on the label is likely not correct. Here's ta chart from Andersen Forrester: andersonforrester.com/conversion-chart/
Thanks Frank. I believe I understand. In addition to the regulator on the in line from the tank, there's a additional internal valve correct. I'll need to get a valve conversion kit to convert from NG to propane correct. Thanks again for the guidance. ✌️
Depending on the gas valve used (many of these use Robershaw or Honeywell controls) you can order just the regulator part of the control rather than replacing the entire control. Look on the manufacturer's label, and get a model number to determine the regulator that you will use..
Frank Hamilton thanks so much. I’m tearing down the heater tomorrow. I’ll let you know how I did. 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
Hi Frank, I have a lazy man Grill A3 20,000 BTU and I need to covert to Propane , Can you let me know what company I can get the Orifice for mt grill
I likely have these in my extensive inventory. Feel free to call me at 714-574-1544.
Hi Frank, I need to convert a Beefer from propane to natural gas. Are your services for hire?
I actually carry orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544. Make sure to like and subscribe to my channel.
I've likely converted over 7,000 units over the years, but I've never heard of that brand. However, it's likely possible that I have the parts to suit that conversion.
I got a furnace in switching to lp no kit available being the age of it. Do you know if I need the same length of Orifice or can I use some that are like what you have or a plug type looking orifice?
I have a Laars 400,000 BTU pool heater and want to convert from natural gas to propane
I haven't checked the orifice sizes yet but how would I go about calculating the correct propane orifice size?
I have conversion table for that. The higher BTU output likely means that there are multiple burners on this unit. The orifices will be stamped with numbers that I can reverse calculate the BTU ratings of each burner. Feel free to contact me during West Coast business hours at 714-574-1544.
There's 20 burners and the Factory OEM orifice size for natural gas is number 45
As I said, I convert appliances for a living. Here's an orifice chart: www.johnstonesupply.com/storefront/tools/orificeChart.ep
I just fill the Natural gas orifice with JB weld and drill it out. It ain't rocket carpentry. also get you a orifice pressure chart. t will show you pressure/BTU/orifice relations..
That's a dangerous idea. There's not much area for this adhesive to hang onto and brass is typically a very smooth non porous metal, so it's a bad substrate. Since gas and propane are petroleum products, they can both act as a solvent to any substance such as a JB Weld epoxy. A burner can become a flame thrower when the epoxy finally blows through, and this may not end well. I have orifices for everything made. I'm in the Midwest, so feel free to contact me during normal business hours at 714-574-1544.
Frank,
I have a Weber Genesis S-330 that I want to convert to LP . As you know, Weber doesn't sell conversion orifices. There are three burners a sear burner and a side burner. The literature says the main burners are 48000 BTUh. (3 main totaling 38000 plus the sear at 10000). Side burner is 12000. The main orifices remove with a 5/16" socket and the side burner uses a 9/32". Where can I find orifices that will fit?
Thanks - Tim
Weber heat ratings are always off, but you wouldn't know that until you've tried to convert one. I have the true ratings on most of their grilles, because I've converted most of their models. If I don't have the correct rating, I can calculate the true heat rating. I have an extensive inventory of orifices for the Weber product line. Just give me a call, and I'll put a kit together for you. I'm on the West Coast, so call me any time after 10:00 a.m. at 714-574-1544.
good job
Hi Frank I have a Napolean BIP500 Natural gas built in grill and need to convert it to propane. Do you have the orifices and regulator for this grill.
Yes, I've done several Napolean grilles, so I likely have the parts. I have orifices for everything made, so feel free to call me at 714-574-1544.
Frank, I bought a 2 year old Weber Genesis 330 w/sear burner at a garage sale that i would like to change from natural gas to propane. I'm not sure of the orifice size. Could I buy them from you?
Yes, I've converted plenty of those Weber grilles and I have the parts for them. Just give me a call at 714-574-1544.
Frank, can I get you to make me the burner orifice for my Whirlpool stove to convert to propane. I have the top burners done but need a number 56 for the oven>? Do you do this?
Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of bar-b-que and stove made. I'm on the West Coast, so feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544.
Hey buddy I'm trying to make a natural gas commercial fryer to propane any advice??
I got the hoses and regulator for a propane tank. I need to change something else??
Leonel Villamil I recently did orifices for a commercial Cecilware 4-burner fryer. Those fryers usually have their own regulators depending on if they're commercial or not. Feel free to call me at 7145741544.
Hi, do you have the blank orifices for a Jenn-air 720-0727? I bought one that is NG and I need to convert back to propane. Thanks!
Yes. I've done quite a few of these Jennaire units, however I'll need to machine some more rotisserie jets because I'm out at the moment. I'm on the West Coast, so feel free to buzz me during normal business hours 9-5 at 714-574-1544.
I have a propane camp stove bought at a garage sele. Idea is to get it to work on natural gas. Drill and test with Natural gas? That is the plan. Ideas welcome.
I've done orifices for a few camp stoves in the past. Why don't you give me a call at 714-574-1544. I'm on the West Coast, so make your call during normal West Coast business hours.
Does anyone have information about how to do the opossite, I have a propane gas stove and I wanna change it to city gas (natural)
www.davegardner.org/images/GasInfo/OrificeTable.pdf
Do the holes in the orifices need to be smaller for propane? I need to convert to propane but the orifices for my maytag mgr5775qds are no longer available and i cant find any so what could i do?
Yes, generally speaking propane holes are smaller than natural gas holes. I have orifices to fit every application there is, including Maytag/Frigidaire, so feel free to call me at 714-574-1544. Remember, I'm on the West Coast when you call, so call during normal business hours.
Hello Frank I would like to convert a Blackstone 28" Griddle fron LP to Natural Gas... can it be done and how big i would have to drill the hole in the orfice?? thank you!
Here's the conversion chart that you'll need to do the job: andersonforrester.com/conversion-chart/
Okay this video does not actually address converting from propane to gas or vise versa. This video addresses how to create a custom orifice which I presume is part of the broader process, but....
Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of bar-b-que and stove made. I'm in the MIdwest, so feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544.
Hi Frank, I've got a Uniflame propane bbq in Canada that wasn't made to be converted (no conversion kit). I think if the orifice holes are enlarged and I change the gas regulator, I should be able to run it on natural gas. Can you enlarge the holes in the orifices if I send them your way?
Did you try this out? I am curious if it worked out for you 2 years later?
Hi Frank, I’m in need of your help. My wife bought me a BBQ for Father’s Day. She didn’t know I use LG gas and she bought me a NG gas BBQ. It’s a Weber spirit 2 E-310. Anyway you can help me out and make me the orifices I need for LP gas? Of course I’ll pay for them. Thank you
lokatwhaticando feel free to contact me at 714-574-1554.
Feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544
Hi Frank. Can you point me to a conversion chart for altitude? Looking to buy a Samsung gas cooktop, convert it to propane (comes with the propane orifices) and then get it set properly for my 8300 ft. elevation.
The altitude factor for 8300 ft. is 0.8860. Without any other adjustments, this means that the BTU rating of your burners will be reduced by a factor of 0.1140 without any further modifications. I've done high altitude conversions before, and they can be tricky, usually involving a combination of manipulating orifice sizes and output ratings of the fuel regulator. You're regulator's output is likely 10" WC, so it might behoove you to get an adjustable fuel regulator for propane only. This should allow you to get close to what you'll need to balance everything out for your high altitude environment. It's mainly the low gas settings that you'll be concerned with and the high gas burner ratings will likely be less than what you'd expect to see at sea level.
Can a Blackstone 1813 be converted to natural gas?
Yes, any unit can be converted, so long as the parts are correct and the technology is verified. Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of barbecue and stove made and have all the parts necessary to do so. I'm now in the Midwest, so feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544.