W126 Mercedes - Axle Boot Replacement With CV Joint Disassembly
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- #impalamansgarage1
In this video I remove the rear axle, cut off the outer CV joint canister
and remove the spider joint, install new CV boots, and reassemble the axle.
Parts:
Outer Mercedes CV Axle Boot Kit GKN - SKU: GKN-303005
Inner Mercedes CV Axle Boot Kit Febi logo- SKU: FEB-06570
I do not recommend the Inner Febi kit above. The clamps
are inferior. I used clamps from NAPA instead.
Constant Velocity (CV) Joint Boot Clamp Crimping Pliers
www.napaonline...
Clamps: Constant Velocity (CV) Joint Boot Clamp Boxed - Part CVB 6865834
www.napaonline...
Thank you so much for the video. I did this job today and the tip to unbolt the rear shocks is key, the axle will come out easily. You saved me a huge amount of time. Thank you again!
Great to hear!
Thanks for this video. Well explained.
hi, did you happen to replace the differential rubber bracket and if so did you notice a difference? Thanks...great channel!
Yes. I don't think I showed the process but I discussed it briefly here. ua-cam.com/video/O2Rgi1fqGd4/v-deo.html&t I noticed no difference afterwards. My original one only had minor cracking.
And thank you! 😁
This is job where I wish I had my old shop. Press, vise, large work bench, grinder... everything you have here. Anyone who takes the amount of time that you did to create this video -earns a "subscribe." Thank you.
Much obliged. It was a challenge to be sure.
Great video, Mike!👍🚗💨
I watched this vid all the way through. I really like the warts and all - you are human like all of us and you weren't afraid to show the bits you struggled with which is so true to life. The commentary was excellent and having owned my own garage business many years ago I learned so much from you. This is the best informative vid I've had the pleasure to watch - WELL DONE & THANK YOU! Ps I liked the power press - I reckon if you're a bit handy you could make one of these!
Man good vid. Love seeing more Mercedes stuff on UA-cam. Found you from Vito's Garage.
Appreciate it!
1983 300 SD TURBODIESEL. 126 CHASS.best car ever.
That's not required now, as there's a compressed air tool that expands the new boot sufficiently so as to fit it. The video is on UA-cam.
Those boots are especially designed for use with that tool. You cannot use that tool with thick long lasting OEM boots. Not sure what the longevity is on those thinner more elastic boots that are used with the tool but they cannot be as long lasting as the OEM part. The boots I pulled off this car were faactory from 1984 as far as I could tell.
@@ImpalamansGarage The factory boots, and these febi replacements, have metal rings in them to keep them in shape. Probably key to long lasting. You can't expand them.
I can't thank you enough for this video! I'm going to tackle this on my '84 300TD wagon today and it's nice to know what to expect.
I cannot speak for your wagon but I have a 2000 W210 wagon. The rear suspension and axles are heavier built than those of the W210 sedan. My point being to expect some differences between a sedan and a comparable wagon. Good luck !
@@ImpalamansGarage Just got one done and it's was very similar. I used the GKN kits for both sides and I suspect those axels have another 36 years/416,000km left in them. haha! You were right though, the hydraulic suspension and gas tank placement made for some extra challenges with the dif.
Regarding the i rings. One small, two large.
Did you use both large o rings? One in the can, but where the other?
No. I only used one. Several folks have asked this question. I could honestly not figure out where the second one went. Extra maybe?
Excellent work and great video! Bought 2 NAPA axles 94-0889 for my 1982 300SD W126; being 24 and13/16" compressed length and axles removed are 26 and 7/16" ; NAPA tech support called to see if these are adjustable like their manual says. Would you have any experience with an adjustable length axle? These are not OEM; Thank you from Texas for your reply. Subscribed and Thumbs up.
The stock axles have some play in the length. They have to for suspension travel and to get them in and out of the vehicle. I'm not familiar with the Naps axles. I checked that part number on their web site and they are supposed to work. I'm curious to know how does the compressed and fully extended lengths of the Napa axles compare to your stock ones? What I can tell is that getting them in and out of the car is quite difficult and that they JUST BARELY squeeze past the slotted adjustment nut holding the rear bearings. Crow bars are needed to facilitate. 😅 One last thought. DO NOT discard the OEM axles. Those things are no longer made and they are hard to come by. I would rebuild them and use them as spares.
(My understanding is the larger band is to be removed to allow extension/adjustment of length, then reset new band. The 24.57" compressed NAPA axle compares to the removed axle at 26.43"; may know tomorrow 1-8-24 if NAPA part is that much adjustable; removed axle is a CVJ Axle reman out of Denver. Car has 500k and runs like that crazy monkey. Seat removed for K'Moe 90+ lb G Shepherd to ride properly. Will follow up on this; many Thanks from Texas. Important to maintain this car. Grateful.@@ImpalamansGarage ) UPDATE: NAPA part will not fit nor lengthen; bought reman OEM thru ebay for $880 pair incl ship and tax. CVJ can reman their reman at 4 weeks out, about same cost. Thank you for good communication.
Hey thanks video are very knowledgeable. ..DYI .IS BEST..I priced front supp work from Mercedes dealer. 8900.dollars .CRAZY..I don't have garage nor power tools. But doing it yourself better knowledgeable. And cheaper
It's nearly always cheaper to do it yourself, as long as you are physically able. Be careful. Working with coil springs can be dangerous.
When cutting off the can, make sure you cut it on the crimped edge only. If you cut it on the flat side, it will cut into and ruin the race that the bearings fit into. If you cut on the tapered side, you'll have additional work cutting off the can.
Yes I thought about where to make the cut a lot before I decided to dig in. 😉
Was your replacement can the same diameter as theinboard diff side can? My replacement can is the same size as the outboard wheel can. It is about 2" less in circumference.
The replacement can matches the outboard one. There is no need to replace the inboard can.
@@ImpalamansGarage Thanks. I understand as I am following you as I work. I was confused by the Mercedes’ source instructions that uses the inboard can. It is mistaken.
Салам из кыргызтана хорошо работаеш у меня такойже мерс 126w дизел 617ом
Very nice video. Going to attempt this operation on my w123 this summer.
Another excellent vid.
I originally bought the replacement can kits for my w123 280CE axle shafts, although I eventually returned them and just went down the boot route with the pneumatic spreader.
I'm currently rebuilding my front suspension. Whilst installing the balljoints using the c clamp tool and impact wrench I must say that initially it's been a bloody pain and has ended up driving in a little off centre each time after checking it loads. I did think about just driving it down on the upper body section (ie not the lower flange) in a vice using a long wrench handle. Your other vid confirms this to be a safe method and must be a lot more controllable. I can't alter the power of my impact wrench......the full power is unleashed.
Thanks so much! The W126 offers a lot of challenge in this area. Stick with it!
If u don't use the Mercedes-Benz special tool to crimp the can halves together, they usually leak.
Yes I can see that being a problem. Where would one obtain the Mercedes crimping tool for the cans ?
@ImpalamansGarage if u send an email address or something, I can send u some photos & dimensions, sure u could have it manufactured, but it would be expensive. I'm going to do my 230 CE W 123 rear shafts in the next couple of months. I can send some pictures.
I've got a replacement 380 W126 shaft that I refurbished last week. I can send some pictures also.
Thank you for upploading this video, im doing the same on my w126c 👍
1986 560sel mercedes. Where can I get a kit ? 4 a rear end.
Try this site: www.niemoeller.de/en
Where can I get a kit ,4 rear end?
Thanks for all you are doing fort this community. I have 1981 and nee to do work on my suspension . Thanks......
Glad to help.
@@ImpalamansGarage Where are you located?
@@franklabrador9739 AL
Impalaman's Garage Can I remove the breaking support mount bracket without removing the spring ?
@@franklabrador9739 The service manual says the following in the following: "Front spring need not be removed
for removing the bearing carrier,
only the lower control arm must be pushed forward." Email me and I will send you a copy of the procedure.
How do you clean the inner cv joint? What kind of solvent? and how would you inspect it for any damage? Thanks.
I used brake clean in this video but now a days I like mineral spirits. Pour mineral spirits in there and slosh it around. Pour it out and let it dry thoroughly before packing with new grease. Without completely taking it apart there is not much you can do to verify condition of the joint except for inspecting the ball bearings down inside. It they appear smooth with no scratches, marring, etc... then it's fine. Of course the action of the inner joint should mimic that of the outer.
@@ImpalamansGarage Thank you.
I noticed at the both ends of the axle where splines ends an index mark as well as paint mark . However one of the axles is Annular type ( bolt type) and no marks on it. Does the Can type axles ( Homokinetic) are indexed for whatever reason? maybe balanced or the spider joint relative rotation to inner joint?
At 12:14, your axle did not have the "plastic stop buffer" on the outboard (end closest to camera)? Or did you already remove it? Then how?
Not sure what you are referring to. Do you have the part number ?
@@ImpalamansGarage there is a hard black plastic cap on the outboard shaft end. It is a male press fit
It seems to be an end stop to butt against the inner wall of the spider joint. But I do not find it on a w123 parts explosion. Sadly, I don’t have the W126 explosion 😫
By the way, local independent shop quotes $1950 for complete R&R.
Reboot only is $950!
yep bookmarked for reference when I get all equipment from USA for reconstructing diff and axles to do it properly on my 450SL Thanks great description plus all suggestions were noted
The best among egaul.
Thanks for your video. I'm renewing rear axles on my 74 230 and it is just like yours. So Thanks to you I now know how to do mine,,,,
1986 560sel mercedes. Where can I get a kit ? 4 a rear end.
Try this site. It's in Germany but I've ordered from them before. I assume you are talking about a kit to rebuild the differential ? www.niemoeller.de/en/w126/mb280sel-126023-motor-110987/B023
Also try this one www.pelicanparts.com/
Great video, thanks.
I found a 3.46:1 w123 diff to put in place of the stock 3.69 diff on my '84 240d, and I hope to get to this job as well as putting in new cv joints, rear springs, and various bushings when the insurance on the Benz runs out this year.
بطلو غلاسه
Thanks for the detailed vid!! Im gonna have to do this to my 84 300sd soon
Removing them from the car is a little difficult. It is a very tight fit. Also you may find it difficult to slip the new rubber boot over the can in some cases. This is why I used the wood shim.
👏👏👏👏👏👌🥰
Tq so much sir
Much appreciated videos. Subbed. Regardless if I end up fixing my benz or not. U shared a lot of knowledge. Thanks
may i know, what is the diameter of the steel ball? i am planning to repair my cv axle w123
Unknown. I did not measure them and I am not seeing the deminsions in the service manual. Maybe others here may know.
This is a great video I've never seen someone do this on UA-cam nice job!
Maybe I'm the only crazy one. 🤣🤣
Thanks so much for the video! Encouraged me to do so. Subscribed to the channel. Keep the great work!!
Grease instead of oil 🤪
Not sure why they originally came with oil as opposed to grease.
I really appreciate your videos. Thank you.
Thanks!
I just spend the day trying shops to get my cv boots changes, Boi! They have no idea to do thank God due this video I did not let them do it.i have a beautiful 123 series, same system.
You can use after market expandable boots which requires a special tool to spread the extra flexible boots around the joints. It eliminates the need to take the axle apart. However I don't think those will last as long.
It’s being a patient mechanic that you are in testimony as you work with the needed repair .When older cars become the breatheren of hard to locate parts it’s the owners that have to pull their sleeves up if you want to handle the repair and save money , finding a mechanic shop that will do this process is becoming difficult .
Thanks foe the supporting words sir.
Looks like it took u the whole day...
It's not a quick process, no.
I got my tool years ago when u could still buy them. It takes about one and a half hours to do the whole shaft, and that includes both the inner and outer cans.
That’s a lot of work. Damn
Depends on your perspective.
they don't build cv axles like that anymore
Wow that's a lot if work just to remove it then work on the axle . I need my boots on my 300 se replaced
Yeah newer designs are much easier.
مرسدس 202 320 عطل بمنفخ كثي
You make very good and nice job 😉.
Hi,Great video.Just done this myself and you were a great help. Do you think the smaller o ring on the new can provides a good seal? There's some slight movement there now that the can is fitted and crimped.The crimped joint seems to provide a very good seal though.
As long as it seals and keeps the grease in. Give it a few weeks and keep an eye on it.
Wondering why you did not grease the spider before you put the can on? Seems like it will run dry for a while until the grease makes it's way into the gear,if at all. Nice video and work. Dreading this project with no lift
@@kevinblanchard611 You keep adding grease and manipulating the joint. As you extend and compress the joint, the grease seems to get sucked into the can. I managed to get a lot of grease in.
Is the inner boot is identical by size and shape to the outter boot ?
Nope.
I wonder if one can use a PEX crimping tool instead. It looks to be the same..?
In an answer to my own question... I did use a PEX crimping tool, and it works!
@@alvinkitzmann2134 Good tip !
Exelent
Thanks 👍
Great video! I'm curious, why didn't you press on the inner spider joint rather than pounding?
I cannot recall precisely why but it was most likely easier. My press is an el-cheapo model so its veraatility is limited. Sometimes grabbing a hammer to get something done quickly is the "best" method even though it may not be the most "elegant".
@@ImpalamansGarage In any case, well done! I just ordered the clamp crimp pliers from Napa - an invaluable recommendation. Thanks
After 2 years of contemplating, i finally did the deed. I found that after replacing the first two balls in the spider joint, it was much easier to replace the remaining balls one at a time, rather than two together. As far as I can tell, the only thing holding the can to the axle is the boot. Any thoughts?
@@stephenduclos9693 hi. Want to come give me a hand?
👍
Excellent job - tnx.
Magnificent video. Thanks...
Many thanks!
I would use plastic zip ties
I reckon that would work but I'd feel a lot better about the longevity of the joint if it were held together with steel straps.
Nappa, not a sponsor !
I have no sponsors.
Thank you , every step so well explained
Glad to help !
@@ImpalamansGarage scouring your channel for 05 c230 vids lol I'm desperate xD
@@2ndNatureHairSolutions Sorry man. No C class stuff yet. lol
So why didnt you just buy new boots? hahahaha JK, as I said the only one I could find was OEM $512.00 and they had only one GREAT VIDEO!!!
Huge job. LOL.... wow. I thought about buying the expandable boots and the pneumatic installer but this was way cheaper and I am staying with OEM thickness on the rubber.
@@ImpalamansGarage did you swap them right in left side and left in right side, I remember seeing something on merceds source, about the ball bearings wearing, Im sure you saw the wear (if any?) when you were replacing the boots..
ua-cam.com/video/ZxuCyghx97Q/v-deo.html at 3:40
Rear Axle Shaft Inspection & Repair on a Mercedes Benz by Kent Bergsma @3:40 sec
@@MrJohnnyblazed No. I'm not swapping them. I'm not convinced that doing so would have any benefit. The balls had no wear that I could perceive. They looked perfect. The U channels of the joint had slight discoloration where the balls rested over the years but I could perceive no physical wear. (Of course I didn't have a microscope either... lol) In my opinion, changing the direction of rotation after this long a time might, in theory, induce unwanted vibration and reduce axle life. Some things you just don't change around on a machine. I know some men that won't even change the position of a lug bolt on a tractor wheel.
Wow. You just made me glad I never tried to do that on my 300D back when I had it. I don't remember what the boots looked like now but I don't think they were cracked. I did not have a workshop or lift so I don't think I could ever have done it. That was a lot of work. That must have been a good part of a day just for one axle.
The lift makes everything easier. Some of the best money I ever spent. I'm done lying under cars. Anyone who buys a lift should ensure that it is on the certified list at www.autolift.org/.
Did yours have any deep wear grooves? I got a set from junkyard that had factory boots with oil in them and noticed deep wear grooves on the drive pressure sides of the ball races. I am bummed out. Their probably still better than the ones in my car though, which have gone 80k with open boots.
All of the steel wear surfaces in the axles were normal in this case.