This is an excellent tutorial on CV boot replacement of front left axle. I do want to highlight a couple differences when doing the front right axle, as it is longer than the front left. To remove the front right axle, we had to release the upper ball joint from the steering knuckle along with the tie rod end. That gave us enough room to remove the axle. When installing the axle, it was very helpful to remove the bolt that holds the shock to the lower control arm. That allowed more room and a better angle to get the axle end back into the wheel hub. We could not do it otherwise. Overall, pretty straight-forward repair. Thanks for the great video Corey!!
I did this same procedure using the same REIN kit on the same vehicle and its been nothing but a headache. The larger side of the boot keeps slipping off several times. I used the included boot clamp (9mm) but I figured I didn't tighten it tight enough. I redid it with the band-it bands (6mm) bcos the larger ones aren't available at the local parts store. This time I tightened it really good and tight using the right high quality banding tool. They all slipped off on both sides... twice. The OEM boot clamp is actually 10mm and made of some of the hardest steel you can imagine. I ordered 10mm Oetiker clamps which are the closest to the OEM I can find without buying the whole boot kit from the dealer. I also ordered another boot kit bcos the original one slipped off some many times that Im not confident about about it. I was lucky I caught all the boot slips within hours of them happening (hard to miss axle grease on the inner rim of your ride) and don't usually drive far or often. Im doing the reinstall this week and am confident that it will stay put this time. One thing I want to point out to anyone doing this is to make sure you tighten the other side of the boot in the right spot. I think, the first time, I might have tighten a little bit too far up the shaft and it didn't have enough slack during hard turns. Even though I tested it while off the vehicle I think it has to have A LOT of slack when fully turned.
The aftermarket boot kits on these cars are junk. Just get it from Mercedes. Includes everything you need, and it's not that expensive at all. Also if you car has leaky airmatic struts or springs, then you need to address that first because when the suspension sags down, it will pull the boots apart and you'll be back to square one.
Well, what to do when joint cant be hammered out ? We tried a to hammer it out for like hour, even use heavy hammers. But its stuck. Do i need new axle ?
You edit out parts that would be much more helpful. The circlip isn't mentioned again after taking it out of the box, as the end of the shaft that is inside the cv joint seems to have a groove for the circlip which doesn't appear to be visible when the joint is pushed back on??
I replaced my CV axle on my 2013 C300 4matic. After that drove like a month and the Axle got out while I'm driving on the HWY. How to secure the axle with the differential, please? So it doesn't get out again 😕?
I recommend just getting repair manual relative to your car, alot of these UA-camrs don’t include many steps of the process, just some parts. Haynes makes good manuals, one of them they have for Mercedes’ c class 2001-2007 which is what I use
Yep, I've noticed many You Tube folks do not refer to the service manuals at all. Having written service manual sections I know a lot of time goes into documenting details regarding the methods to repair vehicles. However, thank the presenter for the demonstration - good work!
I have 2009 E350 4matic and those clamps don't work! The original clamp from the factory is seamless. The tightening part of the clamp hits the holding rod of the wheel and the clamp just falls off. At this point I believe only an original axle with original clamp would work.
@@EKT209 Not sure but you will soon catch up. We are now in the era of reels. The uploader of these long a$$ videos will also need to catch up because reels and shorts is where the money is
This is an excellent tutorial on CV boot replacement of front left axle. I do want to highlight a couple differences when doing the front right axle, as it is longer than the front left. To remove the front right axle, we had to release the upper ball joint from the steering knuckle along with the tie rod end. That gave us enough room to remove the axle. When installing the axle, it was very helpful to remove the bolt that holds the shock to the lower control arm. That allowed more room and a better angle to get the axle end back into the wheel hub. We could not do it otherwise. Overall, pretty straight-forward repair. Thanks for the great video Corey!!
Great instructional! The word "stretch" is the thing that gave you the hardest time!😁
clear and straight forward tutorial good job man
It would have been nice to see him actually removing the axle to start with.
A good friend of mine died two weeks ago while doing a similar operation, the car fell on him :( great care for the future, it's not play!
Can you please make a video on how to only replace the inner boot for the 2005 E500 4 matic. Thank you very much.
brass punch!! Eye-opening! !
This video very useful to me'...
Thank u.....
I did this same procedure using the same REIN kit on the same vehicle and its been nothing but a headache.
The larger side of the boot keeps slipping off several times. I used the included boot clamp (9mm) but I figured I didn't tighten it tight enough. I redid it with the band-it bands (6mm) bcos the larger ones aren't available at the local parts store. This time I tightened it really good and tight using the right high quality banding tool. They all slipped off on both sides... twice. The OEM boot clamp is actually 10mm and made of some of the hardest steel you can imagine. I ordered 10mm Oetiker clamps which are the closest to the OEM I can find without buying the whole boot kit from the dealer. I also ordered another boot kit bcos the original one slipped off some many times that Im not confident about about it. I was lucky I caught all the boot slips within hours of them happening (hard to miss axle grease on the inner rim of your ride) and don't usually drive far or often. Im doing the reinstall this week and am confident that it will stay put this time. One thing I want to point out to anyone doing this is to make sure you tighten the other side of the boot in the right spot. I think, the first time, I might have tighten a little bit too far up the shaft and it didn't have enough slack during hard turns. Even though I tested it while off the vehicle I think it has to have A LOT of slack when fully turned.
Good advice. It's always good to mark with tape or pen where the inside end of the boot on the shaft.
The aftermarket boot kits on these cars are junk. Just get it from Mercedes. Includes everything you need, and it's not that expensive at all.
Also if you car has leaky airmatic struts or springs, then you need to address that first because when the suspension sags down, it will pull the boots apart and you'll be back to square one.
Nice video and great job but you don't mention from where you got the boots or if I need it from where should I get? thanks.
Excellent video.
Well, what to do when joint cant be hammered out ? We tried a to hammer it out for like hour, even use heavy hammers. But its stuck. Do i need new axle ?
Thank for your great tips
I learned a ton! Thank you. Curios....are Rein parts for Mercedes, certified?
How many hours is this procedure; especially, for a 2011 C 300?
Thank you ....very much!!!
Nice video. What's the torque specs for the axle bolt in a 2015 GLK250 ?
How much should it cost to replace a boot for mercedes Gla 250:parts and labor
You edit out parts that would be much more helpful. The circlip isn't mentioned again after taking it out of the box, as the end of the shaft that is inside the cv joint seems to have a groove for the circlip which doesn't appear to be visible when the joint is pushed back on??
Yep in the middle of doing the same exact job, did you ever find the answer?
Same question…where does the included replacement clip go? Inside the CV joint? At the transfer case end of the axle?
Good video
I didn't know people remove the axle in order to replace the cv boot?
I replaced my CV axle on my 2013 C300 4matic. After that drove like a month and the Axle got out while I'm driving on the HWY. How to secure the axle with the differential, please? So it doesn't get out again 😕?
Did you use a new bolt to hold the axle in place? Or new nut on older C300s
I recommend just getting repair manual relative to your car, alot of these UA-camrs don’t include many steps of the process, just some parts. Haynes makes good manuals, one of them they have for Mercedes’ c class 2001-2007 which is what I use
Yep, I've noticed many You Tube folks do not refer to the service manuals at all. Having written service manual sections I know a lot of time goes into documenting details regarding the methods to repair vehicles. However, thank the presenter for the demonstration - good work!
Try getting a cv joint removal tool from ebay. It costs like 2 burgers.
I have 2009 E350 4matic and those clamps don't work! The original clamp from the factory is seamless. The tightening part of the clamp hits the holding rod of the wheel and the clamp just falls off. At this point I believe only an original axle with original clamp would work.
👍🏼
*Yeah right, a lot of useless talk and way too much volunteer information. Not sure why cant you do this video in less that 3 minutes?*
He was probably assuming the people watching don't have a severe attention deficit. Have you tried asking for your money back?
@@EKT209
Not sure but you will soon catch up.
We are now in the era of reels.
The uploader of these long a$$ videos will also need to catch up because reels and shorts is where the money is
👌