couple of minor things: when filling the diffs, if you fill it 1/3 - 1/2 before you put all the internals in, you can speed up the process considerably. bearings around the diff case should have been changed at the same time, Wear on the crown/pinion is usually a good indicator of sloppy bearings. and for grease, this is more personal preference, But water proof high temp automotive grease(the thick blue stuff) tends to do a better job of preserving your gears. can even be used in place of diff oil and bearing oil where water penetration/corrosion is a concern(Crawlers/wet weather bashers) Last thing, the wheel hub, doing the bolts in a star pattern is extra faff for no reason, press the hub in hard, put two opposite bolts in all the way then do the remaining bolts. close enough is good enough, especially on a monster truck wheel. Keep up the good work 😉
@@Cheesicle_ they are crazy strong. I run them in my 6s Tmaxx and v1 Erevo, have never had to replace one. The GPM version are also bulletproof if you want to save a few bucks
Weird. The spiral cut and stock straight cut have the same tooth count at least on my Traxxas Rally. I run the spiral cut in rear with stock up front and I have no binding issues, but front and rear spin at the same rate
@@traxrc that is incorrect. the XO-1 internals will fit in the standard diff cup. its how i run my Tmaxx. although the heavy duty cups with the little metal carriers will last longer generally
That's a lot of 💰 in parts! I haven't even done the x01 diff mod & I beat the brakes off of my slash! I'm probably just going to do that mod with the steel bar & drive cup call it good. $20 F&R $40 total... Better than $120 lol but them gears are hella strong! But I've never had a problem with the stock diffs let alone with the steel bar mod inside. 🤷
Ik it’s a lot of money but when u think about it u only have to do the x01 mod once and by the time it wears out u will have to do the steel bar and drive cup a quite few times. It might be worth the extra money just saying.
@@traxrc when do you start seeing a problem with the stock differentials setup? I'm usually just on 2S sometimes 3S... I haven't seen any problems yet, is it when you're always runnin 3S or have a stronger set up then the stock system?? Or jump it crazy high?
@@traxrc that's a good point, if you do need it, it will last a long time, or if yours have excessive wear replacing it with a new setup would probably be beneficial at that time 👍👍 I just keep fluid in my diffs & keep some bearing/wheel grease on the outside in mine seemed to last awhile & sound good so far. But i don't drive to wreckless with my slash
It’s just average wear and tear especially when u use the differentials a lot. U also get build up dust and fine rock and that wear it down. Edit also starting and stopping quickly will wear it down but that’s going to happen either way.
@@traxrc oh yeah it's like sandpaper for those ⚙️⚙️⚙️⚙️. Mine is a streetcar but still manages to get all kinds of shit in there. It's fun taking off hella fast & slamming on the brakes 2wd compared to 4X4 two totally different feelings. I like them both equally tho. My rustler 2X4 is sick! Proline Street fighter tires 2.2" from the slash work great on there + full RPM parts everything from the front bumper bulkhead A-Arms front & rear bearing carriers body mounts & wheelie bar mount+ strc hinge pins 💯
I currently have a stampede 4x4 xl5 and I’m aiming for a 3s-4s conversion and a 2800kv motor any recommendations so I can make it last I currently have a rustler 4x4 vxl aswell and it takes a beating and a half.
Honestly 4s is too much power for it. It’s just going to fall apart. If you want upgrades then u can watch my stampede vids and see what I recommend in them. If you still decide to do it then get a hobbywing system. They r great and u can get them for a decent price.
Been in the hobby for 8 years bud. I don recall the being a different part number, and I have used both sets. They looked the same and I had issues with both.
couple of minor things:
when filling the diffs, if you fill it 1/3 - 1/2 before you put all the internals in, you can speed up the process considerably.
bearings around the diff case should have been changed at the same time, Wear on the crown/pinion is usually a good indicator of sloppy bearings.
and for grease, this is more personal preference, But water proof high temp automotive grease(the thick blue stuff) tends to do a better job of preserving your gears. can even be used in place of diff oil and bearing oil where water penetration/corrosion is a concern(Crawlers/wet weather bashers)
Last thing, the wheel hub, doing the bolts in a star pattern is extra faff for no reason, press the hub in hard, put two opposite bolts in all the way then do the remaining bolts. close enough is good enough, especially on a monster truck wheel.
Keep up the good work 😉
That’s all true!
@@traxrcwould you recomend spiral cut pinion and ring gears? saw that you had a vid abt 2years ago abt them on your stampede , how they holding up?
Yes I definitely recommend them! They held up great
@@Cheesicle_ they are crazy strong. I run them in my 6s Tmaxx and v1 Erevo, have never had to replace one.
The GPM version are also bulletproof if you want to save a few bucks
It’s so cool how u just know what to do within like 3 seconds like even when it’s my cars
It's called experience!
Weird. The spiral cut and stock straight cut have the same tooth count at least on my Traxxas Rally. I run the spiral cut in rear with stock up front and I have no binding issues, but front and rear spin at the same rate
Look at the xo-1 diff build series I did w my stampede. I showed the diff ratios at the end of one of the videos.
@@traxrc I did that's how I knew what to order lol but when I did the same wheel speed test they were perfectly in sync with each other 🤷🏿♂️
The brace does fits perfectly in standard cups
Negative. The XO-1 Cups are bigger to fit the braces.
@@traxrc I did run them for a while now.. the brace does fits just the plates each ends wont fits.. Also its how GPM aluminum cups are also designed..
@@traxrc that is incorrect. the XO-1 internals will fit in the standard diff cup. its how i run my Tmaxx. although the heavy duty cups with the little metal carriers will last longer generally
That's a lot of 💰 in parts! I haven't even done the x01 diff mod & I beat the brakes off of my slash! I'm probably just going to do that mod with the steel bar & drive cup call it good. $20 F&R $40 total... Better than $120 lol but them gears are hella strong! But I've never had a problem with the stock diffs let alone with the steel bar mod inside. 🤷
Ik it’s a lot of money but when u think about it u only have to do the x01 mod once and by the time it wears out u will have to do the steel bar and drive cup a quite few times. It might be worth the extra money just saying.
@@traxrc when do you start seeing a problem with the stock differentials setup? I'm usually just on 2S sometimes 3S... I haven't seen any problems yet, is it when you're always runnin 3S or have a stronger set up then the stock system?? Or jump it crazy high?
@@traxrc that's a good point, if you do need it, it will last a long time, or if yours have excessive wear replacing it with a new setup would probably be beneficial at that time 👍👍 I just keep fluid in my diffs & keep some bearing/wheel grease on the outside in mine seemed to last awhile & sound good so far. But i don't drive to wreckless with my slash
It’s just average wear and tear especially when u use the differentials a lot. U also get build up dust and fine rock and that wear it down.
Edit also starting and stopping quickly will wear it down but that’s going to happen either way.
@@traxrc oh yeah it's like sandpaper for those ⚙️⚙️⚙️⚙️. Mine is a streetcar but still manages to get all kinds of shit in there. It's fun taking off hella fast & slamming on the brakes 2wd compared to 4X4 two totally different feelings. I like them both equally tho. My rustler 2X4 is sick! Proline Street fighter tires 2.2" from the slash work great on there + full RPM parts everything from the front bumper bulkhead A-Arms front & rear bearing carriers body mounts & wheelie bar mount+ strc hinge pins 💯
I currently have a stampede 4x4 xl5 and I’m aiming for a 3s-4s conversion and a 2800kv motor any recommendations so I can make it last I currently have a rustler 4x4 vxl aswell and it takes a beating and a half.
Honestly 4s is too much power for it. It’s just going to fall apart. If you want upgrades then u can watch my stampede vids and see what I recommend in them. If you still decide to do it then get a hobbywing system. They r great and u can get them for a decent price.
Didn’t you trade your stampede for your Arrma kraton exb ?
Yes... this is an old video I forgot to post.
The stampede 4x4 vxl diffs are much stronger than the brushed diffs
They r the same to my knowledge
@@traxrc Your knowledge is not that great
Been in the hobby for 8 years bud. I don recall the being a different part number, and I have used both sets. They looked the same and I had issues with both.
@@traxrc I have been in the hobby 20 years
I have a stampede 4x4 6s that go like 100 mph stock drive shafts and diffs are bulletproof
I could use some of those parts can you send me those parts number
If you check the description I have links to all of the parts that I put on for this video. It goes to amain hobbies.