@@AskOkeyInc What's unfortunate is that most grown man in the industry can't understand that times are changing and people are looking for up to date look that fits current standards of beauty and style. Just like when they were developing that English drape or American Sack style - they also criticized the outdated cuts that came before. You can of course choose to be stuck in a certain point in history but that doesn't mean everyone else is wrong, given the fact that we're living in 2020's, and not in 1930's. It's just nostalgia and inability/unwillingness to adapt, nothing more. Argument that you're making could as well be used for ancient Roman garments or any ethnic clothing anywhere in the world, promoting them as a pinnacle of fashion. Get over it.
@@yohatch you sound insecure about the fact that theres a difference between timeless elegance and your poor taste in fashion which changes with whatever your favorite rapper is wearing.
@@chelo4197 Timeless elegance? We know exactly when they style came into fashion, don't speak about "timeless". Fashion changes, always has, always will. There are no timeless pieces, everything has it's limited period of appeal. If you choose to wear a certain style, that's your choice, but making it a standard of style for entire world, for all cultures and all generations is simply nonsensical, egoistical and narrow-minded. I don't wear what my favorite artists are wearing. I wear what I like. I also don't make shallow judgements about someone's style and habits based on yt comments. I guess there are certain things English drape can't fix.
Excellent video Sir. I am a black American man that was around in the 80's during the, "Designer Jeans" era. I have an athletic build. I could not wear jeans from every designer. Many just were not cut for my build. It was during that time that I learned the lesson in your video. Same holds true for hair styles. Not everyone has the head shape, hair line, etc for every style. I'm forwarding this video to my son. He's 21 years old and finding his style. He loves to be well dressed, groomed and good smelling. I'm finding great value in your videos and I look forward to new ones. Your information is greatly appreciated and helpful. Please continue to put them out. God bless!
All very good observations and very well out sir Delighted to have you on board and of course look forward to having your son as well 😁 Thank you sir PROFF
Finally, a man who understands how suits used to be cut. Think Gary Cooper, Cary Grant, Clark Gable and famous actors from the 20s, 30s, and 40s. Suits are meant to be elegant with proper handwork, not some form-fitting garment you see today. Trousers are meant to be cut high at the waist and fall onto the dress shoe or boot. That is proper draping of fabric. Can have suits made from amazing textile mills and you can't show off the fabric if the suit fits like athletic wear.
VERY WELL SAID 🙌🏾 I have a favorite saying … CLOTHES MUST BE ALLOWED TO MOVE. They should be able to DANCE IN THE WIND IF NECESSARY Welcome aboard Sir PROFF
I sell European cut ready mades and MTM. Really interesting to hear this breakdown. Thank you. We squeeze big guys into slim fits. Because that is what the market wants especially the wives. Your videos have made me realise we should offer a drape cut.
@@otorhora6537 Forget what the wives want... SHOW THEM that they're wrong. I'm sure that you know, we feel our best when we look our best... Of course everyone has a different build... It'd be wonderful if you could offer the three "standards"... A modern Slim style, a classic Drape style and the "traditional American" Sack style. Being RTR or MTM, they'd be fairly easy to modify slightly, to better suit each customer's body type. Cheers!
Thank you. I will share your channel with my son. I am a female in America and I hate the slim fit suits that are the current trend. Tne fit is too tight, too feminine, and leaves little to the imagination. I am embarrassed for men who I see dressed in that style because it looks so uncomfortable. Especially when they sit.
The movement has begun and I'm here for it. As a young boy I would sit on my mother's lap as she pressed on the Singer paddle. Fashion is in my genes. With that said, I feel some sort of way about the Sack and Drape name attributed to American male designs. Surely you remember Willy Smith of Willy Wear fame who gave the world the deconstruction loose fitting suits and jackets. Bill Blass and Perry Ellis were other Americans making the roomier clothes because they concluded the average American is not a David or Adonis and needs room for his paunch belly. We learned that a man shouldn't wear clothes that either look like he couldn't afford enough fabric or like it's inherited from a far bigger parent or relative. So perhaps the middle ground is to have both. You have a follower here and keep up the great work. Just stood up for American designers and fit men who don't want to Drape and Sack.😊
Sir, I'm not particularly interested in bespoke suits as of now, but I've seen the short video and your obvious expertise and masterful delivery drew me in nonetheless. Great video, you are a true professional. I also appreciate how interactive you are in the comments. Instant like & subscribe and I saved the video for future reference. Much success to you and the team! Best regards László
OHHH BLESS YOU Laszlo 🙌🏾 Thank you for your very kind and encouraging words. TRULY GRACIOUS of you Sir! A WARM Welcome to AskOkey. Look forward to this journey with you as my co-traveller PROFF
I haven’t seen this American “sack” look since the 90s when very prominent NBA stars took pride in their presentation. The suits definitely draped with shoulder pads. The general American look for the last 20 years has been more of the fitted slim cut. Younger men have even sported the skinny (too tight) look despite body type. The American Ivy League look is more British than you give it credit for. It’s not as sackish since the maybe the 70s. I think you’re basically on point with the other cuts that I can see. I have not yet been to Europe but I certainly look forward to doing so soon. Finding your channel has been a quite a pleasant surprise. Keep doing what you’re doing.
This is not the first video from this channel and I watched and I am very impressed that you advocate and explain suits and bespoke tailoring, but without all the snobbishness of “oh you should only wear savile row suits as anything else is rubbish” Keep this up!
I first tried a bespoke suit as a final year student in 2012, in mysuru city, Karnataka, India. Now I want to go back to the same shop for more. But I have also loved the richness of knowledge here in your presentation and the depth of language. I am learning and thinking of investing myself into bespoke suits. God bless you sir.
how do you know so much? you are like a historian for suits and men's fashion. Like who teaches how fashion was from 100 years ago. cool channel man, and congrats on the partnership. you deserve it.
I don’t know how I’ve missed your channel. I love your practical advice, your attention to detail, the fact that you pay attention to “big men”, your understanding of the actual tailoring process-everything. Not to mention your personal style is absolutely regal. Thank you!
Thank you. I'm an older man, middle Height, don't fit ready made, can't afford tailored that does not suit me. You have made me understand why my choices don't work. High waisted. Draped coat. I had never heard of it. Ask for coat sleeves to be cut high under arms, I didn't even know you could do that. It's been a pleasure to find you.😊
I've watched several of your shorts and a few of your long videos. Must say I've been looking at my wardrobe with a more critical eye. As I get older I wish to move away from my overly casual wardrobe to a much more " Mature" look. I've learned quite abit from your channel and believe I can use your knowledge when I upgrade my Wardrobe.
Great video!! Love the valid criticism of tailor shops today. I will say that bigger and taller guys CAN wear closely fitted Italian suits but the tailor will need to know how to modify the base pattern to suit the proportions. This is what separates a good tailor from a great one.
Yes! We've always referred to the English Drape suit as the "drapes." And speaking as an African-American, in my experience, not to mention my personal preference, even in the US, the English drape cut was and has always been the preferred cut, as opposed to the American sack look, which in my experience, is looked upon as less elegant than the English drape. I am looking forward to seeing more of your videos. I really appreciate your astute knowledge in the finer details of men's wear. Your is something that just can't be dressed enough!
Why is this so interesting, I literally never wear suits. Really cool video! Also glad to hear you address different body types as one of those 6'2 250 guys.
What a boss, even if I haven't thought of buying a suit in the near future, I'm so glad UA-cam recomended me this channel. So interesting to hear a true master of his craft! Could you make a video on Hats please? Specially the "Sombrero de Paja Toquilla" which is from my country Ecuador.
Excellent point about the tailor being good at making the suit but few have an eye for design. I have had so many suits and jackets that are uncomfortable to wear even though it was made for me. Another point is that they are always in a such a hurry to move on to the next customer, that the process feels rushed.
I’ve said this many times Tim. And I wish it put on record … Many tailors are POOR ARCHITECTS but good ENGINEERS They have NO EYE for BALANCE, PROPORTION and SILHOUETTE These things are quite different from CUTTING and SEWING. On the contrary, I’ve seen many bespoke garments from Saville Row which fit quite well (good tailoring) but look horrible on the wearer PROFF
BLESS YOU Ron Jeremy 🙌🏾 Please visit our Instagram Page @askokeyig Our UA-cam is strictly for Video Tutorials and Educational Content Our Instagram has more lifestyle content with a greater variety of outfits Welcome aboard Ron 😁 PROFF
I really like drape and fuller cuts, especially when it comes to how the trousers look. I’ve just always associated it with elegance so I often have trouble figuring out how to nail this tailoring style with casual wear.
Wonderful breakdown and excellently presented. Subscribed right away. So this must mean I'll be flying out to you then, from wherever I am in 3 months time. Looking forward to more of your content 🙌🏾
Hello Sir, I do appreciate your videos a lot, I had a couple of shorts recommended on my fyp, and I must say I haven't been disappointed. As a Cameroonian woman living in Cameroon, Bespoke garments are very out of reach for me but I like to think I'll own a couple in time. I do love suits and I've been investing in my wardrobe a lot over the years. I've been working with the same tailor for well over a decade now and the creation of one piece (whatever it may be) is usually a long wait period and an insane amount of backs and forths. Your videos are very insightful and I'm happy I came accross them because I'll be able to communicate with my tailor better. Ps. My tailor is a sweetheart, I love her because she always listens to me and she delivers always. Thank you so much. Best regards, Bei.
I was a slim suit guy when I was slim. Although that was nearly a decade ago. I’ve tried looking for a balance such as a semi loose style because like you said the slim fit really doesn’t lend itself well to thicker or muscular frames. That was my natural evolution because of experience but I believe you are spot on.
Ive been trying to look for the technicalities of the different cuts. And you sir just gave the best explanations out there. Drape cuts are soo elegant and those are what im looking so long for. Thank you my good sir. Will subscribe to your channel
Impeccably dressed, wonderfully articulate..beautiful speaking voice . But how to dress the heavier man (typical unfit person), or older man, or of limited means might be in order. Thanks for your content.
An exceptionally well put together and thought out presentation , from the backround props , lighting choice of vocabulary well researched content and gracious delivery .This was both informative and a true pleasure to indulge..
I have known a suit like this had to exist. I have been searching for it not knowing its details. This seems to fit it. I really appreciate the cut. A moderate balance in the middle of the suit spectrum. I appreciate how it covers and is comfortable. Subscribed. Will be continuing to follow. Thank you for your work
I do have to say, the American sack suit I picture is that of the No. 1 by Brooks Brothers. A 3pc, 3/2 soft coat. I think the pictures placed in the video for the sack suit are quite horrendous! 🤣 There's good sacks out there... 😝
Thank you Will. Our media team will do a great job next time in picking good examples. They may have “stretched the rubber” just to make a point 😅 PROFF
I happen to be 6 foot , 230lbs and saw your short and have for long struggled witth suits not being made for bodybuilder proportions. I will try to look for the drape cut!
Just came across your video for the first time. Starting to get into Sartorial style and classic men clothing. This video has been greatly informative especially for beginners! Big support from Thailand 🇹🇭
Hello Okey, this is such a wonderful service that you are offering. However, i have lived in England for a number of years . My suits wrer made in London. All of my jackets had their pockets stitched shut. Since i had mored to Canada, i have continued the same. I found that the jacket keepes their shape. 20:09
I have seen many do the same. I personally can’t discard the (bad) habit of dumping my fists in my coat pocket Much like His Majesty Charles III 😅 Welcome aboard Ashton PROFF
Thank you for providing needed information regarding men's clothing styles and types of fabric and color coordinating. Love your offerings, much needed in all quarters! Bravo...
It occurred to me many young men don't know the basics, like how to tie a regular tie, let alone tie a bow tie. If they had a father in the house hold he did not know and so did not teach his son these basic things. You are doing a great service to young men who desire to represent themselves as cultured gentlemen.
I think you should have mentioned more about the paint. Suit pants should have either side adjusters or worn with brace. NO BELTS! I have mine made with a fish tail back so I can wear bracers.
Thank you Sir for the valuable information. Every detail of your suit is on point. The slight beak of the pants cuff is Perfect! Flaps on the jacket pocket would seem like extra material.
Sir, let me start out by saying thanks for an excellent video on the various cuts of bespoke suits, now although I am a gentleman of somewhat a slight physique, I do however prefer the "English Drape" over the "Continental European" look. The closes I've come to having a Bespoke suit is custom made or Made-To-Measure, with the information you have provided, I feel I will be better equipped and more knowledgeable of what to expect and look for when it comes to investing into a Bespoke tailored suit. One final comment and a question as well, what is your opinion on Asian tailoring suits (i.e. bespoke) I have visited China and Thailand and encountered tailors who make the claim that they can tailor a suit in just a matter of a few days, thanks!
Of course Frankie 😁 With knowledge, you are armed to confront any choice(s) when it comes to having your clothes made. You have been a dedicated pupil on here for some time and I do not doubt you have acquired a body of knowledge in the same time. Now to Asian Tailoring. Remember that THE SUIT as we know it is a European Invention (English one might even suggest). Hence any Asian tailoring must be a DERIVATIVE of ENGLISH or EUROPE TAILORING There is EXCELLENT work being done in Asia particularly in Japan and Korea. These cultures are known for CLINICAL PRECISION. I have seen houses such as B&TAILOR of Korea take the NEAPOLITAN CUT to a whole nother level with their ATTENTION TO DETAIL. Something the Italians are not necessarily known for. Same with some of the Japanese Tailors. Highly CLINICAL and the finishing on par with anything out of Saville Row The other half of ASIAN TAILORING for example THAILAND and VIETNAMESE SUITS made in 24/48 hours. That is the equivalent of FAST FOOD You do the math 😅 PROFF
Proff, can you make a video on buttons? Specifically on the jacket, so sleeve buttons (5 or 4 or 2) and whether kissing or regular buttons. And also on the jacket whether to go for three or 2?
Of course Mr Hamza, I’d be happy to pass on your request to our media planning team Personally, I recommend 4 sleeve buttons on all suits, double breasted coats, and formal garments (Dinner suit etc). And a SINGLE LARGE button on all sport coats Welcome to AskOkey Sir 😁 PROFF
@@mrhamzariaz I know most “Designers” go for the 5 Sleeve Button thing (like Gucci, Tom Ford etc) But in my opinion it’s unnecessary. 4 would do just fine … PROFF
@@AskOkeyInc It is this grey double breasted suit you are wearing in your building a tie wardrobe video. ua-cam.com/video/Nr6fY359N88/v-deo.htmlsi=7tatPmbg1FayIfHx
Nothing but the best information as always!! Thank you so much 🙏 for your outlook on everyone is not built the same and you must get the correct cut for your body frame is extremely important. I played football 🏈 in Highschool and college so the thinner suits wouldn't fit a guy like me. My legs and shoulders are really large and wide. Everything with the Ask Okey suits would be a great fit for me. I have been watching his videos since day one and I have not gotten any bad advice!! This guy is my Tailor For Life on everything men dress suits and shoes etc!!
I love the classic look of suits form the 40s 50s it looks so much better I believe the word for that is drape as the title says these suits you have look amazing I would love for a shop that sells suits cut like this in Australia
I have learned in the last ten years of wearing suits daily, that the suit is a FUNCTIONAL garment. It was THE ONLY garment any Western man would wear for centuries. It must be functional. I have also learned that I began my journey at a mere 120 lbs, and 6'2". I am no nearly 200 and not all good weight. I have learned to adapt my style to match my build. And the drape cut is fantastic. I cannot and would not wear the close cuts of the old custom suits I had made. I grew very tired of struggling simply to tie my shoes. I started to realize this after I bought a bespoke suit from the 1970s. It was clearly designed for movement and action. The flare of the trouser is not achieved with tightness through the thigh, but proper drape when standing elegantly. The high armholes fit my thin arms and allow me so much range of movement, but the drape of the chest and full coat seat make me look quite thin through the waist. I was extremely fortunate to find this piece, as the only difference between myself and the gentleman who had it made 50 years ago is that my torso is about 1/4" longer. Heavier weights, proper canvasing, proper drape. My latest pieces are very flattering, and give me the appearance of a thin waist, but more powerful chest (all lies of course).
I almost bought into the eur-con look. Thankfully, I found AskOkey before my Pini Parma trouser order shipped. 😂 Now making plans for AskOkey garments. The drape of your trousers is 'the masculine look' IMHO. Traditional, conservative and masculine is what I'm going for. PROFF I've learned so much in the last week, mainly about what I really want to look like when I want to look good.
@@sbnwnc OH Dear 😅 You’ve got me there I truly have no idea. I would approach any company that makes them and request a CUSTOM FIT. Usually this should be possible and would invite a “Surcharge” PROFF
As someone who recently got a bespoke suit made in Indonesia, this information would have been valuable to know. Could you please give an explanation video on the different materials and smaller details and how to identify a good silhouette?
Very good question and reasonable request Snoop Please look through our entire UA-cam Tutorial Archive. There are any number of video tutorials that address ALL THE SUBJECTS you mention above Welcome to AskOkey PROFF
Absolutely superb, interesting, and informative video! My preference order is the English, the sack and full (full sack? 😂), but not the European/Continental style (being built like the man described at around 13:00 mark). The description given of the English cut very accurately describes the fit of the highest quality 15th to 17th suit of Armour! Very appropriate for the English style! *As an aside, Oakey should be Dr. Who!*
I used to hate the baggy suit aesthetic from the 80s-90s, but after adopting a more loose vintage laidback (slightly elegant) fashion sense, I think *if the fit is right,* a little bag wouldn’t hurt anybody. I still prefer the decorative and fitted suits of the European Victorian era - the American 1950s, but baggy suits ain’t all that bad… IF it’s done tactfully in all the right places.
Jacob, We must learn to properly distinguish a BAGGY suit from the DRAPE CUT The DRAPE CUT is a well shaped garment cut to accommodate lots of room and a full range of motion The problem as it see it is that men in this age have seen nothing but TIGHT DIVING SUITS. And so anything that does not STICK TO THE SKIN looks BAGGY KNOW THE DIFFERENCE PLEASE SEE THE FULL VIDEO for more detail on the DIFFERENCE between BAGGY and DRAPE CUT ua-cam.com/video/Eo6QZsOvSDQ/v-deo.htmlsi=QpUQeTVUP3FScysk PROFF
It's not baggy, it's how clothing used to be tailored. It's actually more comfortable and elegant for a man's appearance. You will never hear a man today say a suit is comfortable, and that's because they're cut so near the body range of motion is limited. A proper, traditional fitting suit you can wear all day without issue. But that art form is endangered with modern fast-fashion.
I uh… didn’t realize I’d cause so much offense with my original comment. There was no intent behind what I said, I was just passively stating a personal observation/opinion. I’m in no way an advocate for modern form fit suits, those are hideous and are in no way shape or form elegant.
As often is with things, the midway through can be the best of both worlds. I learnt that the drape cut is shaped like an Italian suit but as comfortable as an American and that is great indeed: after all, clothes have to be worn and fit the body otherwise it's a pain to use them for ceremonies and such 😂
The drape suit is shaped VERY differently than an Italian suit. It's almost the polar opposite it terms of structure and shape. The Drape cut uses structure, sufficient room and proportions to create shape around the body. The Italian cut conceals as little as possible, which is unflattering for most mens' physique.
Hang on wait, you have never worn a suit? Have you never been to court or a job interview or a wedding or a funeral or on a date or business meeting in your whole life?
So true about tailors putting down the suit you're wearing. Hair stylists do this too. "What shampoo do you use?... Oh dear, that's one of the worst ones."
Really enjoy your content. I personally prefer the English drape in tweed with the double breasted waistcoat (actual waistcoat not "hip coat") Also prefer the french cuff shirt with a high club collar (attached or detachable) and really like the ruche ties even though many consider them a bit too fancy. I've also been known to go full formal kilt with sheriffmuir doublet and waistcoat with lace jabot and cuffs I do wish I lived more convenient to an actual bespoke shop. Best I can do is an off the rack suit and have it tailored for me. There are tailor shops here but they are just technicians and don't make full bespoke suits. You always have such great information concerning suits and proper cut and such. I'd be interested to hear your take on formal Highland wear.
Drape cuts lend themselves well to double breasted suits and appear more appropriate in the winter. The additional fabric makes sense. I think a drape looks out of place in a hotter climate. I believe there are different types of suits for a reason. Structured British or Milanese for formal events. You have unstructured Neapolitan for casual settings in warmer climates. Seersucker suits for the humid climate. Suits for equestrian. Suits for hunting. Etc.
Fascinating. It's refreshing to hear the truth about these styles and tendencies where there is too much focus on the country of origin and/or the house style of such and such tailoring house. A perfect example of bad fit is Daniel Craig insistence on slim fitting suits for his role as Bond which makes him look like a stuffed sausage in many of his last Bond movies. The worst was his pink Anderson and Shepard velvet suit he wore for a U.S. gala after his last Bond movie which was atrocious! A&S should be ashamed of letting him out the door looking like that!
I believe as a beginner to bespoke that a bespoke suit should be designed for the individual. I guess it’s because I like designing because my body as a female stop fitting ready to wear and I like certain styles, but I know that I have to design a look s that it fits my body and looks good on my frame. I do this by making the Bess art adjustments in design keeping my body frame in mind.
I do like the look of the drape cut but I often prefer a softer shoulder to one that has more structure (likely due to the fact the shoulders are often really awful looking on RTW). I prefer a more relaxed look but not to the extent of a sack suit but with clean plum lines on the trouser, and room to be comfortable and move. I haven't worked my way up to bespoke yet but i mostly do MTM emphasizing on more room in the arms, body and legs since I workout often. If you could speak more to how there are english drape cuts without the structure in the shoulder I would be more inclined to try it!
The structure is necessary to create shape. To have a proper English cut that looks smooth and flowing, you much have enough room and proper proportions. Extend the shoulder out, and you'll have a spectacular shape jn the shoulder.
Dear Okey, A suggestion, when you talk about the different cuts cut, you should wear them, so we can see the differences, in one body...Besides IMO your body shape, will make you look good no matter the style/cut..
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Fantastic that you're not shy of the full-cut trousers and the lengthier jacket. The drape this affords is pure elegance. Thank you!
TELL EM’ Sean 😁
It’s quite unfortunate most grown men have no idea what a tailored suit ought to look like
Welcome aboard
PROFF
@@AskOkeyInc What's unfortunate is that most grown man in the industry can't understand that times are changing and people are looking for up to date look that fits current standards of beauty and style. Just like when they were developing that English drape or American Sack style - they also criticized the outdated cuts that came before. You can of course choose to be stuck in a certain point in history but that doesn't mean everyone else is wrong, given the fact that we're living in 2020's, and not in 1930's. It's just nostalgia and inability/unwillingness to adapt, nothing more. Argument that you're making could as well be used for ancient Roman garments or any ethnic clothing anywhere in the world, promoting them as a pinnacle of fashion. Get over it.
@@yohatch you sound insecure about the fact that theres a difference between timeless elegance and your poor taste in fashion which changes with whatever your favorite rapper is wearing.
@@chelo4197 Timeless elegance? We know exactly when they style came into fashion, don't speak about "timeless". Fashion changes, always has, always will. There are no timeless pieces, everything has it's limited period of appeal. If you choose to wear a certain style, that's your choice, but making it a standard of style for entire world, for all cultures and all generations is simply nonsensical, egoistical and narrow-minded. I don't wear what my favorite artists are wearing. I wear what I like. I also don't make shallow judgements about someone's style and habits based on yt comments. I guess there are certain things English drape can't fix.
@@yohatchwell said. The problem with drape is that it simply looks bad, even if it is of the highest quality.
Excellent video Sir. I am a black American man that was around in the 80's during the, "Designer Jeans" era. I have an athletic build. I could not wear jeans from every designer. Many just were not cut for my build. It was during that time that I learned the lesson in your video. Same holds true for hair styles. Not everyone has the head shape, hair line, etc for every style. I'm forwarding this video to my son. He's 21 years old and finding his style. He loves to be well dressed, groomed and good smelling. I'm finding great value in your videos and I look forward to new ones. Your information is greatly appreciated and helpful. Please continue to put them out. God bless!
All very good observations and very well out sir
Delighted to have you on board and of course look forward to having your son as well 😁
Thank you sir
PROFF
What kind of price are we looking at I like the full look suit shirt tie shoes and hat can you do a video on that I live in Florida
@@wilburhunter8124 Wilbur, pls have a look
www.AskOkey.com/shop
PROFF
real g
Finally, a man who understands how suits used to be cut. Think Gary Cooper, Cary Grant, Clark Gable and famous actors from the 20s, 30s, and 40s. Suits are meant to be elegant with proper handwork, not some form-fitting garment you see today. Trousers are meant to be cut high at the waist and fall onto the dress shoe or boot. That is proper draping of fabric. Can have suits made from amazing textile mills and you can't show off the fabric if the suit fits like athletic wear.
VERY WELL SAID 🙌🏾
I have a favorite saying …
CLOTHES MUST BE ALLOWED TO MOVE.
They should be able to DANCE IN THE WIND IF NECESSARY
Welcome aboard Sir
PROFF
Someone once described the film North by Northwest as "A grey glen plaid suit makes it's way across America with Cary Grant in it."
@@Tmanaz480 Never heard that expression Manaz 😁
Welcome aboard once again
PROFF
@@Tmanaz480 exactly... I've always felt that suit was the true star of 'North by Northwest'. Cary carried it well.
I sell European cut ready mades and MTM. Really interesting to hear this breakdown. Thank you. We squeeze big guys into slim fits. Because that is what the market wants especially the wives. Your videos have made me realise we should offer a drape cut.
@@otorhora6537
Forget what the wives want... SHOW THEM that they're wrong.
I'm sure that you know, we feel our best when we look our best...
Of course everyone has a different build... It'd be wonderful if you could offer the three "standards"... A modern Slim style, a classic Drape style and the "traditional American" Sack style.
Being RTR or MTM, they'd be fairly easy to modify slightly, to better suit each customer's body type.
Cheers!
There you go Oto 🙌🏾
Welcome aboard
PROFF
@@slicksnewonenowvery well said Slicks 🙌🏾
PROFF
Thank you. I will share your channel with my son. I am a female in America and I hate the slim fit suits that are the current trend. Tne fit is too tight, too feminine, and leaves little to the imagination. I am embarrassed for men who I see dressed in that style because it looks so uncomfortable. Especially when they sit.
@@mellowseller9762 please do share my dearest 😁
And welcome aboard
PROFF
I love how you've got our backs! Warning us about tailors psychological tricks, instead of using them on us! That's big of you.
Just sharing information, that’s all.
PROFF
The movement has begun and I'm here for it. As a young boy I would sit on my mother's lap as she pressed on the Singer paddle. Fashion is in my genes. With that said, I feel some sort of way about the Sack and Drape name attributed to American male designs. Surely you remember Willy Smith of Willy Wear fame who gave the world the deconstruction loose fitting suits and jackets. Bill Blass and Perry Ellis were other Americans making the roomier clothes because they concluded the average American is not a David or Adonis and needs room for his paunch belly. We learned that a man shouldn't wear clothes that either look like he couldn't afford enough fabric or like it's inherited from a far bigger parent or relative. So perhaps the middle ground is to have both. You have a follower here and keep up the great work. Just stood up for American designers and fit men who don't want to Drape and Sack.😊
Thank you Steady for the beautiful story 😁
A very warm welcome to AskOkey 🔥
Sir,
I'm not particularly interested in bespoke suits as of now, but I've seen the short video and your obvious expertise and masterful delivery drew me in nonetheless. Great video, you are a true professional. I also appreciate how interactive you are in the comments. Instant like & subscribe and I saved the video for future reference. Much success to you and the team!
Best regards
László
OHHH BLESS YOU Laszlo 🙌🏾
Thank you for your very kind and encouraging words. TRULY GRACIOUS of you Sir!
A WARM Welcome to AskOkey. Look forward to this journey with you as my co-traveller
PROFF
I haven’t seen this American “sack” look since the 90s when very prominent NBA stars took pride in their presentation. The suits definitely draped with shoulder pads. The general American look for the last 20 years has been more of the fitted slim cut. Younger men have even sported the skinny (too tight) look despite body type.
The American Ivy League look is more British than you give it credit for. It’s not as sackish since the maybe the 70s.
I think you’re basically on point with the other cuts that I can see. I have not yet been to Europe but I certainly look forward to doing so soon. Finding your channel has been a quite a pleasant surprise. Keep doing what you’re doing.
@@deeerv4905 All very well stated Dee 🙌🏾
Welocme aboard sir
I agree.
@@mellimel1174 Welclme Melli 😁
This is not the first video from this channel and I watched and I am very impressed that you advocate and explain suits and bespoke tailoring, but without all the snobbishness of “oh you should only wear savile row suits as anything else is rubbish”
Keep this up!
Thank you Pierzak 😁
And a warm welcome aboard sir
PROFF
I first tried a bespoke suit as a final year student in 2012, in mysuru city, Karnataka, India. Now I want to go back to the same shop for more. But I have also loved the richness of knowledge here in your presentation and the depth of language. I am learning and thinking of investing myself into bespoke suits. God bless you sir.
Thank you and welcome aboard Wafi 🔥
PROFF
how do you know so much? you are like a historian for suits and men's fashion. Like who teaches how fashion was from 100 years ago. cool channel man, and congrats on the partnership. you deserve it.
WOW! Thank you Elite 😅
I’ve learned just from personal interest and curiosity
I have no formal training on tailoring
PROFF
I don’t know how I’ve missed your channel. I love your practical advice, your attention to detail, the fact that you pay attention to “big men”, your understanding of the actual tailoring process-everything. Not to mention your personal style is absolutely regal.
Thank you!
OH BLESS YOU Ross 🙌🏾
Thank you and a warm welcome
PROFF
It’s really a delight to hear a true expert on this art.
Hats off.
Greetings from Bogota 🇨🇴
Gracias Senor Jupa 🙌🏾
So delightful to have a representative from Colombia 🇨🇴 on here at AskOkey 😁
Welcome aboard Senor
PROFF
Thank you. I'm an older man, middle Height, don't fit ready made, can't afford tailored that does not suit me. You have made me understand why my choices don't work. High waisted. Draped coat. I had never heard of it. Ask for coat sleeves to be cut high under arms, I didn't even know you could do that. It's been a pleasure to find you.😊
With great pleasure Old Lifter 😁
Welcome aboard sir
PROFF
I've watched several of your shorts and a few of your long videos. Must say I've been looking at my wardrobe with a more critical eye. As I get older I wish to move away from my overly casual wardrobe to a much more " Mature" look. I've learned quite abit from your channel and believe I can use your knowledge when I upgrade my Wardrobe.
Very delightful to hear Tudrego 😁
Please do stick around. Lots more to come
PROFF
Absolute master of his craft! Best regards from Serbia! 🇷🇸♥️
THANK YOU Sir 🙌🏾
I hope to visit Belgrade soon for my annual Rakia restock 😁
Welcome to AskOkey Sir
PROFF
Kosovo je serbia
@@bryanalexander2508 Thank you Bryan 😁
PROFF
@@bryanalexander2508Kosovo je Kosovo 🇽🇰
Kosovo je Ivan
@@Ivan-hb3co
The 6'3 250lbs wanting to look like a runway model comment hit me lol! Love the video!
Indeed Cholax 😅
Welcome aboard
PROFF
Nice to hear someone with an informed opinion on bespoke.
Thank you and welcome aboard
PROFF
You have an amazing way of explaining, I would truly trust you as my tailor.
Thank you David. You are welcome to commission a bespoke suit with us. Visit our website, www.askokey.com/shop or drop us an email at info@askokey.com
Great video!! Love the valid criticism of tailor shops today. I will say that bigger and taller guys CAN wear closely fitted Italian suits but the tailor will need to know how to modify the base pattern to suit the proportions. This is what separates a good tailor from a great one.
If you’re a BIGGER fellow, Why not just go for a generous CUT rather than play “hide and seek” with the body line?
Yes! We've always referred to the English Drape suit as the "drapes." And speaking as an African-American, in my experience, not to mention my personal preference, even in the US, the English drape cut was and has always been the preferred cut, as opposed to the American sack look, which in my experience, is looked upon as less elegant than the English drape. I am looking forward to seeing more of your videos. I really appreciate your astute knowledge in the finer details of men's wear. Your is something that just can't be dressed enough!
Why is this so interesting, I literally never wear suits. Really cool video! Also glad to hear you address different body types as one of those 6'2 250 guys.
Of course 😁
Thank you Amazing Awesomeness
PROFF
What a boss, even if I haven't thought of buying a suit in the near future, I'm so glad UA-cam recomended me this channel. So interesting to hear a true master of his craft!
Could you make a video on Hats please? Specially the "Sombrero de Paja Toquilla" which is from my country Ecuador.
OH BLESS YOU Sir 😁
Of course we have SEVERAL VIDEOS on hats. Please look through the channel archives
Welcome aboard Axonn 🙌🏾
PROFF
Excellent point about the tailor being good at making the suit but few have an eye for design.
I have had so many suits and jackets that are uncomfortable to wear even though it was made for me.
Another point is that they are always in a such a hurry to move on to the next customer, that the process feels rushed.
I’ve said this many times Tim. And I wish it put on record …
Many tailors are POOR ARCHITECTS but good ENGINEERS
They have NO EYE for BALANCE, PROPORTION and SILHOUETTE
These things are quite different from CUTTING and SEWING.
On the contrary, I’ve seen many bespoke garments from Saville Row which fit quite well (good tailoring) but look horrible on the wearer
PROFF
I've sharing this with 5 gentleman friends & 2 cousins thank you Sir I am learning exponentially ❣
OH BLESS YOU Jill 🙌🏾🔥
PROFF
Excellent video @AskOkey and very informative . I’m here from the UA-cam Shorts and now I’m hooked. Subscribed !!!
Thank you Muk.
Impeccable Style! I'd love to see a video of you just showing diffrent outfits. Greetings from Switzerland!
BLESS YOU Ron Jeremy 🙌🏾
Please visit our Instagram Page @askokeyig
Our UA-cam is strictly for Video Tutorials and Educational Content
Our Instagram has more lifestyle content with a greater variety of outfits
Welcome aboard Ron 😁
PROFF
I really like drape and fuller cuts, especially when it comes to how the trousers look. I’ve just always associated it with elegance so I often have trouble figuring out how to nail this tailoring style with casual wear.
ABSOLUTELY Christophe 🔥
Most men grapple with fit. They mistake tight clothes for fit
PROFF
Fascinating. "English Drape Cut". I'll have to remember this. Much obliged, good sir
Of course Walter 😁
Welcome aboard
PROFF
I really enjoyed this video and have subscribed. It was great to hear someone properly explain the cuts for the suits. I will keep following him.
Thank you Mark 😁
Welcome aboard
Wonderful breakdown and excellently presented. Subscribed right away. So this must mean I'll be flying out to you then, from wherever I am in 3 months time. Looking forward to more of your content 🙌🏾
A very warm welcome aboard I Rise Nation 🔥
PROFF
Hello Sir,
I do appreciate your videos a lot, I had a couple of shorts recommended on my fyp, and I must say I haven't been disappointed.
As a Cameroonian woman living in Cameroon, Bespoke garments are very out of reach for me but I like to think I'll own a couple in time.
I do love suits and I've been investing in my wardrobe a lot over the years. I've been working with the same tailor for well over a decade now and the creation of one piece (whatever it may be) is usually a long wait period and an insane amount of backs and forths. Your videos are very insightful and I'm happy I came accross them because I'll be able to communicate with my tailor better.
Ps. My tailor is a sweetheart, I love her because she always listens to me and she delivers always.
Thank you so much.
Best regards,
Bei.
Very kind of you Bei 🔥
Thank you and a warm welcome to AskOkey
PROFF
what a stylish gentleman! thank you!
Thank you Slav 💯
I was a slim suit guy when I was slim. Although that was nearly a decade ago. I’ve tried looking for a balance such as a semi loose style because like you said the slim fit really doesn’t lend itself well to thicker or muscular frames. That was my natural evolution because of experience but I believe you are spot on.
ABSOLUTELY David 💯
Nothing wrong with slim suits but be sure it’s suited to your frame
I'm glad I found your channel! I'm 66 yrs. old, in great shape, and I want to do a new thing with my wardrobe. Thank you so much!
@@curtisking8543 With great pleasure Curtis 🙏🏾
Welcome aboard sir
Ive been trying to look for the technicalities of the different cuts. And you sir just gave the best explanations out there. Drape cuts are soo elegant and those are what im looking so long for. Thank you my good sir. Will subscribe to your channel
Very well said Albert 🙌🏾
Thank you and a warm welcome to AskOkey
PROFF
You're the smartest, most elegant person i have ever seen. Love that suit. Pure style and class. Wish you were UK based.
@@NB-xq4qt Thank you NB
We are based EVERYWHERE
www.AskOkey.com/shop
Impeccably dressed, wonderfully articulate..beautiful speaking voice . But how to dress the heavier man (typical unfit person), or older man, or of limited means might be in order. Thanks for your content.
Will address this in a future segment Uke
PROFF
A1 Content! One of the many reasons I'm subscribed. Keep the knowledge flowing sir.
OF COURSE Mr. Fluellen 💯
You’re welcome Sir 🙌🏾
PROFF
An exceptionally well put together and thought out presentation , from the backround props , lighting choice of vocabulary well researched content and gracious delivery .This was both informative and a true pleasure to indulge..
Thank you Mike for your kind words. Do check out our other videos.
That is a beautiful suit. I particularly like how the wide lapels flow down from the collar
THANK YOU Bloguerista 🙌🏾
Welcome aboard 🔥
I have known a suit like this had to exist. I have been searching for it not knowing its details. This seems to fit it. I really appreciate the cut. A moderate balance in the middle of the suit spectrum. I appreciate how it covers and is comfortable. Subscribed. Will be continuing to follow. Thank you for your work
Thank you Tampa 😁
A warm welcome aboard 🔥
Another video from the Professor! A Happy Sunday indeed! 😊
You know we ALWAYS COME PREPARED Sir Yaq 😁
Thank you Sir!
PROFF
A real sartorial maven, you know your onions brother. Salute 🎩
Thank you Attoe and welcome to AskOkey 😁
PROFF
Excellent presentation of men's formal dress wear!👍
Thank you Largo 🔥
PROFF
I'm a beginner dapper fashion fan. I'm from Europe, but i have always liked american sack suits more, they're extremely comfortable.
@@Casualnpc00 AGREED 💯
An excellent video! I wasn’t aware of the differences, but I can tell you your style sure appeals.
@@shaffer4220 Thank you and welcome aboard 😁
I do have to say, the American sack suit I picture is that of the No. 1 by Brooks Brothers. A 3pc, 3/2 soft coat. I think the pictures placed in the video for the sack suit are quite horrendous! 🤣 There's good sacks out there... 😝
Thank you Will.
Our media team will do a great job next time in picking good examples. They may have “stretched the rubber” just to make a point 😅
PROFF
Yeah, the pic at about 3:45 is not American sack but early 90s Armani.
I happen to be 6 foot , 230lbs and saw your short and have for long struggled witth suits not being made for bodybuilder proportions. I will try to look for the drape cut!
You should Bjorn
You’ll never look back 💯
Just came across your video for the first time. Starting to get into Sartorial style and classic men clothing. This video has been greatly informative especially for beginners! Big support from Thailand 🇹🇭
With great pleasure Sir!
Thank you Tonnow and a warm welcome to AskOkey 😁
PROFF
Hello Okey, this is such a wonderful service that you are offering. However, i have lived in England for a number of years . My suits wrer made in London. All of my jackets had their pockets stitched shut. Since i had mored to Canada, i have continued the same. I found that the jacket keepes their shape. 20:09
I have seen many do the same. I personally can’t discard the (bad) habit of dumping my fists in my coat pocket
Much like His Majesty Charles III 😅
Welcome aboard Ashton
PROFF
Thank you for providing needed information regarding men's clothing styles and types of fabric and color coordinating. Love your offerings, much needed in all quarters! Bravo...
Of course Tim, you’re very welcome sir 🙌🏾
Thank you for a very in depth explanation as opposed to the more superficial clips I've witnessed. Congratulations to you Sir !
@@jacquesmartin9741 Welcome aboard Jacques 😁
Fantastic! Thank you for the instruction
Of course Caio 😁
Welcome aboard
PROFF
It occurred to me many young men don't know the basics, like how to tie a regular tie, let alone tie a bow tie. If they had a father in the house hold he did not know and so did not teach his son these basic things. You are doing a great service to young men who desire to represent themselves as cultured gentlemen.
We’re saving them one man at a time Sage 😁
Thank brother you for your teaching, and I will continue to learn from you.
❤
With great pleasure James 🔥
PROFF
I think you should have mentioned more about the paint. Suit pants should have either side adjusters or worn with brace. NO BELTS! I have mine made with a fish tail back so I can wear bracers.
@@walterfoyt5985 I wholly agree Walter
You should do a video on the other styles of British suits, comparing the drape suit to e.g. more structured styles
In due time Christian 😁
PROFF
Thanks for this informing video, I will be looking forward to have one your english drape suits one day.
Looking forward likewise Kamran 😁
PROFF
Love the look of the product. Glad I found your channel. Keep up the great work Professor.
Of course Albert 🔥
Thank you and welcome aboard 😁
Thank you Sir for the valuable information. Every detail of your suit is on point. The slight beak of the pants cuff is Perfect! Flaps on the jacket pocket would seem like extra material.
Truly appreciate the explanations behind the various cuts of suits.
Of course Tom
Welcome sir 😁
Love the style and the cut,,, and just the overall look,,,, of a traditional suit,,(very sophisticated) 🎩👍🏽
The gray that you're wearing is perfect for business. I will always prefer the drape.
@@roderickpayne4898 That’s the way to go Roderick 🔥
Prof is a real teacher😁😁😁😁
You don't know when you get absorbed.
Happy to know the difference between full drape and sack
I agree.
Too many trying to wear the so called European slim fit suit.
The cut of suit that you are wearing is a classic look.
Sir, let me start out by saying thanks for an excellent video on the various cuts of bespoke suits, now although I am a gentleman of somewhat a slight physique, I do however prefer the "English Drape" over the "Continental European" look. The closes I've come to having a Bespoke suit is custom made or Made-To-Measure, with the information you have provided, I feel I will be better equipped and more knowledgeable of what to expect and look for when it comes to investing into a Bespoke tailored suit. One final comment and a question as well, what is your opinion on Asian tailoring suits (i.e. bespoke) I have visited China and Thailand and encountered tailors who make the claim that they can tailor a suit in just a matter of a few days, thanks!
Of course Frankie 😁
With knowledge, you are armed to confront any choice(s) when it comes to having your clothes made. You have been a dedicated pupil on here for some time and I do not doubt you have acquired a body of knowledge in the same time.
Now to Asian Tailoring.
Remember that THE SUIT as we know it is a European Invention (English one might even suggest). Hence any Asian tailoring must be a DERIVATIVE of ENGLISH or EUROPE TAILORING
There is EXCELLENT work being done in Asia particularly in Japan and Korea. These cultures are known for CLINICAL PRECISION. I have seen houses such as B&TAILOR of Korea take the NEAPOLITAN CUT to a whole nother level with their ATTENTION TO DETAIL. Something the Italians are not necessarily known for.
Same with some of the Japanese Tailors. Highly CLINICAL and the finishing on par with anything out of Saville Row
The other half of ASIAN TAILORING for example THAILAND and VIETNAMESE SUITS made in 24/48 hours. That is the equivalent of FAST FOOD
You do the math 😅
PROFF
You look so elegant. Perfect. Learn something new today. Thank you so much.
You’re welcome Iskan 😁
Welcome aboard
PROFF
Thank you for this video. I had no idea of the intricacies of tailoring.
There you go Top gun 🔥
Welcome aboard
Proff, can you make a video on buttons? Specifically on the jacket, so sleeve buttons (5 or 4 or 2) and whether kissing or regular buttons. And also on the jacket whether to go for three or 2?
Of course Mr Hamza, I’d be happy to pass on your request to our media planning team
Personally, I recommend 4 sleeve buttons on all suits, double breasted coats, and formal garments (Dinner suit etc).
And a SINGLE LARGE button on all sport coats
Welcome to AskOkey Sir 😁
PROFF
@@AskOkeyInc I’ve seen a jacket of yours that had 5 sleeve kissing buttons. When should one go for 5 buttons? Is it a mistake to do so?
@@mrhamzariaz Hamza, could you please point me to the specific video/photo?
I honestly have no recollection 😅
PROFF
@@mrhamzariaz I know most “Designers” go for the 5 Sleeve Button thing (like Gucci, Tom Ford etc)
But in my opinion it’s unnecessary. 4 would do just fine …
PROFF
@@AskOkeyInc It is this grey double breasted suit you are wearing in your building a tie wardrobe video.
ua-cam.com/video/Nr6fY359N88/v-deo.htmlsi=7tatPmbg1FayIfHx
Nothing but the best information as always!! Thank you so much 🙏 for your outlook on everyone is not built the same and you must get the correct cut for your body frame is extremely important. I played football 🏈 in Highschool and college so the thinner suits wouldn't fit a guy like me. My legs and shoulders are really large and wide. Everything with the Ask Okey suits would be a great fit for me. I have been watching his videos since day one and I have not gotten any bad advice!! This guy is my Tailor For Life on everything men dress suits and shoes etc!!
Awesome presentation. Now I know 3 the basic suit types & why suits don’t fit me right.
There you go DE 😁
PROFF
I love the classic look of suits form the 40s 50s it looks so much better I believe the word for that is drape as the title says these suits you have look amazing I would love for a shop that sells suits cut like this in Australia
Very well said Krypton 💯
Well aboard
PROFF
Great video / narration. Congrats on a stylish suit!
Thank you Phil 🙌🏾
PROFF
I have learned in the last ten years of wearing suits daily, that the suit is a FUNCTIONAL garment. It was THE ONLY garment any Western man would wear for centuries. It must be functional. I have also learned that I began my journey at a mere 120 lbs, and 6'2". I am no nearly 200 and not all good weight. I have learned to adapt my style to match my build. And the drape cut is fantastic. I cannot and would not wear the close cuts of the old custom suits I had made. I grew very tired of struggling simply to tie my shoes. I started to realize this after I bought a bespoke suit from the 1970s. It was clearly designed for movement and action. The flare of the trouser is not achieved with tightness through the thigh, but proper drape when standing elegantly. The high armholes fit my thin arms and allow me so much range of movement, but the drape of the chest and full coat seat make me look quite thin through the waist. I was extremely fortunate to find this piece, as the only difference between myself and the gentleman who had it made 50 years ago is that my torso is about 1/4" longer.
Heavier weights, proper canvasing, proper drape. My latest pieces are very flattering, and give me the appearance of a thin waist, but more powerful chest (all lies of course).
Beautifully written Max
Wear it in good health 🙌🏾
Excellent presentation by an obvious professional!
BLESS YOU Aziz 🙌🏾
And welcome once again to AskOkey 😁
PROFF
I almost bought into the eur-con look. Thankfully, I found AskOkey before my Pini Parma trouser order shipped. 😂 Now making plans for AskOkey garments. The drape of your trousers is 'the masculine look' IMHO. Traditional, conservative and masculine is what I'm going for. PROFF I've learned so much in the last week, mainly about what I really want to look like when I want to look good.
Perfectly well said Dworak 🙌🏾
Thank you for discovering AskOkey and please do not hesitate to ask our guidance in your choice(s)
Best wishes
PROFF
@@AskOkeyIncHey Professor, do you know where one would go to get a bespoke judicial robe? I am looking for something very simple.
@@sbnwnc OH Dear 😅 You’ve got me there
I truly have no idea. I would approach any company that makes them and request a CUSTOM FIT.
Usually this should be possible and would invite a “Surcharge”
PROFF
@@AskOkeyInc I'll check it out, thanks!
@@sbnwnc you’re welcome sir!
As someone who recently got a bespoke suit made in Indonesia, this information would have been valuable to know.
Could you please give an explanation video on the different materials and smaller details and how to identify a good silhouette?
Very good question and reasonable request Snoop
Please look through our entire UA-cam Tutorial Archive. There are any number of video tutorials that address ALL THE SUBJECTS you mention above
Welcome to AskOkey
PROFF
I really do enjoy and appreciate these lessons on mens suit designs and styles.
You’re welcome Purple swan 🔥
I love this guy's deliberate nature,well-spoken presentation, not to mention his taste.
Thank you Pastor Brian 😁
Welcome aboard Sir 🙌🏾
Very good teacher 💪🏽
Thank you CHAMP 🔥
PROFF
Loving the content, keep it up!
BLESS YOU Max 🙌🏾
A Very Warm Welcome to AskOkey Sir 😁
PROFF
Absolutely superb, interesting, and informative video!
My preference order is the English, the sack and full (full sack? 😂), but not the European/Continental style (being built like the man described at around 13:00 mark). The description given of the English cut very accurately describes the fit of the highest quality 15th to 17th suit of Armour! Very appropriate for the English style!
*As an aside, Oakey should be Dr. Who!*
Very well said PhD 😅
Okey should be Dr. Bond. James Bond 🔥
PROFF
From an Italian viewer: Bravissimo!
Grazi Maxi 🔥
Buona Giornata and welcome to AskOkey 🙌🏾
PROFF
I used to hate the baggy suit aesthetic from the 80s-90s, but after adopting a more loose vintage laidback (slightly elegant) fashion sense, I think *if the fit is right,* a little bag wouldn’t hurt anybody.
I still prefer the decorative and fitted suits of the European Victorian era - the American 1950s, but baggy suits ain’t all that bad… IF it’s done tactfully in all the right places.
Jacob,
We must learn to properly distinguish a BAGGY suit from the DRAPE CUT
The DRAPE CUT is a well shaped garment cut to accommodate lots of room and a full range of motion
The problem as it see it is that men in this age have seen nothing but TIGHT DIVING SUITS. And so anything that does not STICK TO THE SKIN looks BAGGY
KNOW THE DIFFERENCE
PLEASE SEE THE FULL VIDEO for more detail on the DIFFERENCE between BAGGY and DRAPE CUT
ua-cam.com/video/Eo6QZsOvSDQ/v-deo.htmlsi=QpUQeTVUP3FScysk
PROFF
It's not baggy, it's how clothing used to be tailored. It's actually more comfortable and elegant for a man's appearance. You will never hear a man today say a suit is comfortable, and that's because they're cut so near the body range of motion is limited. A proper, traditional fitting suit you can wear all day without issue. But that art form is endangered with modern fast-fashion.
@@user-dq1kr6zc2t LECTURE them Sir 🙌🏾
I have nothing to add to your missive. Welcome aboard AskOkey
PROFF
I uh… didn’t realize I’d cause so much offense with my original comment. There was no intent behind what I said, I was just passively stating a personal observation/opinion. I’m in no way an advocate for modern form fit suits, those are hideous and are in no way shape or form elegant.
@@buccaneercat Well noted Buccaneer. No offense taken 😁
Welcome aboard sir!
PROFF
As often is with things, the midway through can be the best of both worlds. I learnt that the drape cut is shaped like an Italian suit but as comfortable as an American and that is great indeed: after all, clothes have to be worn and fit the body otherwise it's a pain to use them for ceremonies and such 😂
The drape suit is shaped VERY differently than an Italian suit. It's almost the polar opposite it terms of structure and shape.
The Drape cut uses structure, sufficient room and proportions to create shape around the body.
The Italian cut conceals as little as possible, which is unflattering for most mens' physique.
Have never worn a suit but enjoy videos about them.
Thanks for all the great lessons.😊
With great pleasure Trucker 🙌🏾
PROFF
Hang on wait, you have never worn a suit?
Have you never been to court or a job interview or a wedding or a funeral or on a date or business meeting in your whole life?
@@moorshound3243 I am an Indian, Suits are not common here.
English, all day🎉
There you go Alex 😁
It is important to know what tailoring suits your body type
PROFF
So true about tailors putting down the suit you're wearing. Hair stylists do this too. "What shampoo do you use?... Oh dear, that's one of the worst ones."
You know it Manaz 😅
PROFF
Really enjoy your content.
I personally prefer the English drape in tweed with the double breasted waistcoat (actual waistcoat not "hip coat")
Also prefer the french cuff shirt with a high club collar (attached or detachable) and really like the ruche ties even though many consider them a bit too fancy.
I've also been known to go full formal kilt with sheriffmuir doublet and waistcoat with lace jabot and cuffs
I do wish I lived more convenient to an actual bespoke shop. Best I can do is an off the rack suit and have it tailored for me.
There are tailor shops here but they are just technicians and don't make full bespoke suits.
You always have such great information concerning suits and proper cut and such. I'd be interested to hear your take on formal Highland wear.
Thank you 🙏🏾
Formal Highland Wear? Please elucidate 😁
Drape cuts lend themselves well to double breasted suits and appear more appropriate in the winter. The additional fabric makes sense.
I think a drape looks out of place in a hotter climate.
I believe there are different types of suits for a reason. Structured British or Milanese for formal events. You have unstructured Neapolitan for casual settings in warmer climates. Seersucker suits for the humid climate. Suits for equestrian. Suits for hunting. Etc.
Sir, A DRAPE CUT can be made into ANYTHING including summer clothes
At least we do 😁
Welcome aboard sir
PROFF
Fascinating. It's refreshing to hear the truth about these styles and tendencies where there is too much focus on the country of origin and/or the house style of such and such tailoring house. A perfect example of bad fit is Daniel Craig insistence on slim fitting suits for his role as Bond which makes him look like a stuffed sausage in many of his last Bond movies. The worst was his pink Anderson and Shepard velvet suit he wore for a U.S. gala after his last Bond movie which was atrocious! A&S should be ashamed of letting him out the door looking like that!
Please let’s leave Daniel Craig out of this.
The man is an embarrassment to the Bond Franchise (as far as dress goes)
PROFF
😂😅
I’m not into men’s formal wear but this video was fantastic.
Thank you Straw 🙌🏾
Welcome aboard
PROFF
I believe as a beginner to bespoke that a bespoke suit should be designed for the individual. I guess it’s because I like designing because my body as a female stop fitting ready to wear and I like certain styles, but I know that I have to design a look s that it fits my body and looks good on my frame. I do this by making the Bess art adjustments in design keeping my body frame in mind.
Very good point my dear 😁
I do like the look of the drape cut but I often prefer a softer shoulder to one that has more structure (likely due to the fact the shoulders are often really awful looking on RTW). I prefer a more relaxed look but not to the extent of a sack suit but with clean plum lines on the trouser, and room to be comfortable and move. I haven't worked my way up to bespoke yet but i mostly do MTM emphasizing on more room in the arms, body and legs since I workout often.
If you could speak more to how there are english drape cuts without the structure in the shoulder I would be more inclined to try it!
The structure is necessary to create shape. To have a proper English cut that looks smooth and flowing, you much have enough room and proper proportions.
Extend the shoulder out, and you'll have a spectacular shape jn the shoulder.
Dear Okey, A suggestion, when you talk about the different cuts cut, you should wear them, so we can see the differences, in one body...Besides IMO your body shape, will make you look good no matter the style/cut..
That’s a good idea Joe
Will consider it next time 🔥🙌🏾
I am not yet adpet to full cut trousers but I do think it is beautiful and elegant
Love the drape look and french taped.
Thank you Traffica
And a warm welcome to AskOkey 😁
PROFF
Beautiful presentation 😊
Thank you my dear 🔥