Wow, thank you so much! I'm going to do my 2011 Rogue this weekend. I hope I don't run into the alignment issue and have to free the axel. I saw several other videos. All removed the ball joint first, and chiseled open the pressured joint first. Also, they free the sway bar from below. You do it in reverse and just hammer the ball joint out. I like your approach also. Much appreciated the video and your insight. Thank you.
14:20 is exactly what I came here for. Worked like a charm. I somehow had a random socket that fit the CV nut perfect. Where was this video a year ago when I did the other side and had the same problem? Lol Good work, thank you brother!
This is a great video. So illustrative and I won’t say it looks easy as I hear you putting a lot of effort and working your way around, but you make it look very manageable. Great video.
Good video 👍 I always use never seized on the bolts and ball joint. Reason being, I live in the Northeast US. Winter is tough with all the salt and crap they put down. I have in the past had to use a hot wrench to be able to loosen suspension bolts and parts
S-HOOK from OTC & a standard long pry bar can also be used to separate ball joint effortlessly. It can also aid in reinstalling new control arm with more control while reinstalling the bolts finger tight.
IF THERE IS An aftermarket Serviceable option that would be advantageous in order to minimize the reoccurrence of yet another failure point for the Nissan rogue? This would greatly increase the durability of the lower ball joints with the addition of grease fittings, in order to allow vehicle owners, the opportunity to better service their vehicle. Probably wishful thinking on my part lol.
THE DRIVERS SIDE BOLTS THAT DIDNT SEEM TO LINE UP PROPERLY THAT YOU HAD TROUBLE WITH IS LIKELY DUE TO THE UNNOTICEABLE 10 DEGREE ANGLE ANGLE necessary to align the bolts correctly prior to hand tightening. THE PASSENGER SIDE FOR Reasons only NISSAN would know. The S HOOK 🪝 would have definitely saved time and aggravation. Peace ✌️
Wow , that is pricey. I really appreciate you sharing this information and it can motivate others to tackle this project. An update on this car , it is driving and feels like brand new with the tie rods and these control arms replaced. Thanks for the feedback.
Wow, thank you so much! I'm going to do my 2011 Rogue this weekend. I hope I don't run into the alignment issue and have to free the axel. I saw several other videos. All removed the ball joint first, and chiseled open the pressured joint first. Also, they free the sway bar from below. You do it in reverse and just hammer the ball joint out. I like your approach also. Much appreciated the video and your insight. Thank you.
14:20 is exactly what I came here for. Worked like a charm. I somehow had a random socket that fit the CV nut perfect. Where was this video a year ago when I did the other side and had the same problem? Lol Good work, thank you brother!
Excellent! Thank you for the feedback.
This is a great video. So illustrative and I won’t say it looks easy as I hear you putting a lot of effort and working your way around, but you make it look very manageable.
Great video.
Thank you so much!
How do you know to adjust the torque arm for each screw nut..
What was the white stuff you put on the new ball joint?
amzn.to/44qJMG5
I love this stuff , I go through quite a bit. Thanks for watching.
Great video mate. Sending support and respect from Australia!
Thank you very much , appreciate you watching.
Good video 👍
I always use never seized on the bolts and ball joint. Reason being, I live in the Northeast US. Winter is tough with all the salt and crap they put down. I have in the past had to use a hot wrench to be able to loosen suspension bolts and parts
Great tip! Thank you for the feedback.
appreciate that you shared and its really helpful.
I'm glad this was able to help , thank you for the feedback.
S-HOOK from OTC & a standard long pry bar can also be used to separate ball joint effortlessly. It can also aid in reinstalling new control arm with more control while reinstalling the bolts finger tight.
Very helpful video ! Thanks for sharing
Thank you for the feedback and I am glad this video could help you out.
IF THERE IS An aftermarket Serviceable option that would be advantageous in order to minimize the reoccurrence of yet another failure point for the Nissan rogue? This would greatly increase the durability of the lower ball joints with the addition of grease fittings, in order to allow vehicle owners, the opportunity to better service their vehicle. Probably wishful thinking on my part lol.
👀👍🏼✔
Thank you for watching , and the feedback as always.
Man, just did the cv Axel on my 2013, and it took me an hour to freaking get the ball joint to rest lol
Great job , those can be really tricky sometimes. Thank you for the feedback.
THE DRIVERS SIDE BOLTS THAT DIDNT SEEM TO LINE UP PROPERLY THAT YOU HAD TROUBLE WITH IS LIKELY DUE TO THE UNNOTICEABLE 10 DEGREE ANGLE ANGLE necessary to align the bolts correctly prior to hand tightening. THE PASSENGER SIDE FOR Reasons only NISSAN would know. The S HOOK 🪝 would have definitely saved time and aggravation. Peace ✌️
Thank you, wonderful video…
Thank you so much , I really appreciate it.
The dealer is asking for $1400 for this job 😏
Wow , that is pricey. I really appreciate you sharing this information and it can motivate others to tackle this project. An update on this car , it is driving and feels like brand new with the tie rods and these control arms replaced. Thanks for the feedback.
Mine is charging $2100 and I don’t live in a rich area smfh
My dealer is asking $2579.44