Giving my 3D Printer Some Upgrades... Then Going to War with It
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- Опубліковано 9 вер 2023
- Hello there and welcome to my video. In this video, I’ll give one of my 3D printers some long awaited upgrades and I’ll attempt to get it printing perfectly. This turned out to be a fair bit of a challenge, and I had to try a lot of things to get it most of the way there.
NOTE: This video is NOT meant to be a tutorial. I explain all that I am doing as if it WAS a tutorial, but I certainly don’t do everything perfectly and therefore if you’re looking to follow in my footsteps with what I do here, you need to look up better, dedicated tutorials. This is meant to be an entertaining and possibly somewhat educational video, not an exact tutorial. Also, sorry for the audio glitch at 9:11. No clue what’s up with that, it doesn’t happen in my timeline, and reexporting the video did not fix it. Sorry about that as it’s quite loud and annoying.
Music, mostly in order:
Beyond - Patrick Patrikios
Soul Searching - Causmic
Sunday Rain - Cheel
Papov - Yung Logos
Hyperfun by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. creativecommons.org/licenses/...
NOTE: This video is NOT meant to be a tutorial. I explain all that I am doing as if it WAS a tutorial, but I certainly don’t do everything perfectly and therefore if you’re looking to follow in my footsteps with what I do here, you need to look up better, dedicated tutorials. This is meant to be an entertaining and possibly somewhat educational video, not an exact tutorial. Also, sorry for the audio glitch at 9:11. No clue what’s up with that, it doesn’t happen in my timeline, and reexporting the video did not fix it. Sorry about that as it’s quite loud and annoying.
What Printer is that? I personally also have an ender, I have the ender 3
@redstoneluchs1982 it looks like an ender3/ender 3 pro
@@stevijones06 Yep, Ender 3 Pro.
When putting in new bowden tubing push the tube all the way down, then back off the nozzle a quarter turn, push the tube down again, then tighten the nozzle a quarter turn. An all metal heat break would be a better upgrade. You can print higher temp materials such as PET/G and ABS more safely and you will rarely need to replace or maintain the bowden because it won't ever get hot. An all metal heat break for an ender 3 only costs around $10.
Your original nozzle was probably fine, those pointy ones are not great, they contain less material (holding less heat) and also have smaller flats at the tip, making it worse when you over extrude. Arachne extrudes wider and narrower than the orifice when needed, and I often extrude up to 1mm lines on a .4 nozzle, on a narrow tipped nozzle this will be less successful.
Also I never tie my bowden to the cables (for reverse bowden it's fine). It can cause angular movement on the tube at the fittings and they loosen over time. Before I stopped doing this I used to get jams and failures because the bowden tube would move with the cable. That coupled with retractions slightly moving the tube every time would always ruin my bowden. I haven't had a single failure due to loose bowden tube since, that was around 3 years ago. Also print some retention clips for the pneumatic couplings/bowden fittings.
I think you are right about the flat spot, the z steps were probably fine but your printer is getting hung up on the flat spot and causing the Z height to be off as a result. If you calculate the circumference of the wheel and print a taller object you can see if the artifact is consistent with the circumference of the wheel. I would print an object just over 3x the height of the circumference and see how it goes.
Good points, thanks! And after finishing the video I printed a taller item that was a bit over one circumference of the wheel (not a perfect test but it's mostly there) and the same little z artifact happened about 1 circumference of the wheel up from the first one, most definitely a flat spot. Thanks for your comment!
I *really* wouldn’t recommend changing the z steps. The z motor and lead screw should be very precise. You should make sure the x gantry isn’t sagging.
I ended up changing the Z steps a bit later after fiddling with the flat spot stuff, so they're a lot closer to what they usually are stock now. But I'll look into figuring out how to check if the X gantry is sagging, thanks!
my biggest regret in 3d printing is buying an ender 3. There's no reason to buy it today. Creality themselves offer the Ender 3 V3 SE for like 20 dollars extra and it has SOOOOOO many extra features that would cost you about 200-400 dollars in upgrades alone
Just had a look at that 3D printer, and based on the price and features, I'd have to agree! Unless it has some crazy issues that are only apparent when watching a proper review, it's definitely the better option. I've had these Ender 3s for a while now though, and they're pretty good if you know how to maintain them still. It's just not that fun maintaining them most of the time, haha.
@@CompHwTipsAndTutorials I got a particularly problematic specimen and was forced to learn how to put it back together blindfolded. I swear I've changed every single "From creality" part except for the LCD. They do print well enough.
Since it's not worth selling it for me, I'm just gonna keep upgrading it until it can't be upgraded anymore. Mine has an e3D nozzle/hotend, 0.6mm nozzle (THE GOAT), glass bed with silicone springs, custom built direct drive (was cheaper than any kits), IR Z bed leveling probe, XY linear rails and a BTT SKR mini motherboard with a raspberry pi for Klipper. I just installed a dual z rod (single motor, synced by a belt) and am on the process of rebuilding the bed gantry from the ground up, no idea why they only supported it in the middle with a very thin extrusion like it's so obvious that's gonna have wobble.
It's always a pain when I have to readjust it because it sat idle for a month, but it prints great.
Oh wow, yeah that definitely sounds like quite the job to get working right. My first Ender 3 was surprisingly issue free, it just went together and printed good after leveling the bed. This one in the video is my second and was the Pro model. This one's been finicky from the start and it's never printed as good as the old one, but it's slowly getting there thankfully.
Nice share. If any custom PCBs and CNC machining parts may help for upcoming upgrade work? Would like to sponsor and reach any collab together if there's a chance. (PCBWay zoey)
Hey there, really happy to hear that you might be willing to collaborate with me at some point in the future! I'm working on getting a business email set up right now, so if you could send something there once that's up in a little while so that I can keep you in a contacts list that would be great!
@@CompHwTipsAndTutorials Awesome! Email sent! Looking forward to your reply soon!