Introducing The Creality K1 Max! (And how is the K1 after 100+ hours?)
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- Опубліковано 24 сер 2023
- To buy a K1 Max: lostintech.co.uk/k1max
Sovol Filament (triceratops used this): bit.ly/SFIL1
The above links are affiliate links, so following them before purchase will normally pay me a commission fee.
Please note that Creality sent the K1 Max over at no cost to me.
Notes: 1. yes some artifacting in a couple of places, but hey, it's better than the interlacing. I don't know what davinci resolve's deal is at the moment. I think it didn't like the 1000x speeds. Not a huge deal. I rendered this in 4k even though only some of the footage is 4k. Let me know if that is a thing you found useful or not.
2. Yes I know the big "max" has a lot of ghosting - I did this piece in 2h12m and it's 200mm wide, I was maxing out the printer, of course you'll get this. Deadlines are a thing.
Yes I have a website now where I write random things when I have time:
www.lostintech.co.uk
Links to the filament in the thumbnail: amolen.com
Links to models:
Crystal dragon: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/b...
Triceratops: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/...
If you want to support the channel, you can via patreon: / lostintech
Join us on Discord!: / discord
It is H.264; one of the current disadvantages of jail breaking the K1/Max and using Fluidd is that it doesn’t support the codec currently. Gotta give Creality credit for using a good codec for playback that’s far superior to MJPEG.
Oh, that's interesting...makes sense!
I have yet to get decent camera footage on klipper no matter what camera I use sadly.
K1 Max - I bought one a month ago and am in love. I have many makes and models of printers and this is the best one in 9 years.
Nice review - thanks for your time ;)
appreciated :)
So, Creality still violating open source licenses.
Qidi didn't do a perfect job of how they released the sources but at least they appear to have done so on a timely basis.
I ordered the Qidi X-Max3 instead of the K1 Max, and Qidi honoring the open source license terms was a major factor in this decision. Ordering the Creality would be a slap in the face to everyone who has contributed to all the software Creality are currently using in violation of license terms.
AFAIK their intentions haven't changed, so there's no update. Hopefully they will deliver in full, and maybe next time a bit sooner to avoid this situation again.
@@LostInTech3D I don't recall seeing "intentions" in any of the licenses that they are violating. They don't have permission to do what they are doing, and it's neither legal nor morally acceptable.
"Hopefully" doesn't really cut it.
You obviously feel strongly about this, but I think mastodon where you cross posted is probably the best platform to continue the debate 👍
@@gotmilkbutt bold of you to assume I haven't done that as well. (Three kits, one nearly complete redesign and rebuild, one design from scratch.) Are you basing your comment on the early 2023 iteration that was withdrawn from the market, or the current iteration just starting shipping now?
What type of plastic do you use and what brand does it come from?
What sort of camera does it use? Is it just USB or something else? I haven't been able to find any good info on it other than it seems like it doesn't support other USB cams for some reason despite it running a version of Klipper.
Also, why would the US 110V not heat the bed the same as our 220V versions? The heaters are built to wattage for the voltage so it should be the same output for each region. There are even some models of AC heaters that can be used for 110V or 220V depending on how they are wired so they might not need 2 different part numbers.
It's something else. It's almost certainly usb, but the plug is non standard and I tried a standard usb camera in the front port to no avail
I'm fairly happy with my K1 Max overall. So far I've not used any glue stick at all and had great bed adhesion every print, even with ABS and ASA. The only issue was with TPU, which was _very_ hard to get off the bed. I'll definitely use some sort of seperation agent the next time I print TPU.
Tpu is always hard to get off the bed of any printer because it flexes with the bed, so the typical bending that pops other parts off doesn't work, especially if the part is thin.
@bluerider0988 I had that on my other printer with a textured PEI sheet, it didn't come off easily, but a bit of wedging underneath and pulling on it made it release. On the K1 bed it was a lot tougher. Even once I got the spatula underneath the edge, I hardly got further under the part with it. In the end, I needed a pair of pliers to really tug on it, to where the build plate sticker started to lift off the plate.
Oh, and don't grip the included scraper on the metal part. Even the sides are sharp enough to give you a nice cut.
Also I think keeping the bed a bit cooler for TPU helps.
@@LostInTech3D I used the defualt values from Crealy Print, but I'll try a cooler bed next time.
creality print's TPU defaults are not great....to put it mildly
It's nice seeing creality push into the prosumer market, I feel a lot better about these machines now that they are out in the wild.
I could use this filament to print your logo!
In the video you mentioned a second channel. Where is that channel? I searched and couldn't find it.
www.youtube.com/@foundintech
I was excited when I built my Voron that I had a mains powered 300mm bed. I was envisioning fast heat up. With a Voron, you supposedly set the max bed power to 60 percent (with 110v). This is to prevent the bed from warping. Maybe because the LDO kit beds are very thick? I have a slow heating bed again. Not sure if this will be a future issue with these beds or not. Something else to keep an eye on.
60 percent of what though. The wattage rate (for the given voltage) will be the important stat
The 60% is a relic from when all beds were rolled, not cast. Nowadays almost all are cast (all of LDOs are cast) so you can unleash the full power of the heater.
I turned mine to 1.00 with no issues in printer.cfg
Couldn't the LIDAR be used to scan the bed for the dimensionality of a potential object on the bed to determine if something is actually there or if it's just glue stick remains?
The ai is still being actively worked on. So, yeah maybe
Now that manufacturers like glue stick again, maybe they'll start including painter's tape with their printers. I'd like some wide one that can cover half of the bed, to get smooth texture on the prints bottoms.
That extruder changing timelapse was funny :)
Hello. Creality says that K1 Max comes with a hardened steel nozzle by default. Is it true? I saw only brass nozzles here.
Huh. I'll ask, but yeah mine is brass.
Im looking at getting this printer after having my ender 3 v2 for 2 years. Im kinda debating whether or not to get the bambu x1 but i haven't been able to find anywhere if the quality of the prints is better on either one.
If you look up frankly built, he’s been printing off a ton of helmets on both the K1 max and P1P, and quality has been exactly the same.
I'd love to see a video showing the difference between using thermal paste on the heat break or not.
I used some of the paste leftover from waterblocking my GPU, and it gave me an extra 10c before I started getting consistent clogs.
Granted, I was using $0.10 heat breaks from Taobao, but It would be an interesting topic.
If I can get rid of my Super Racer, I'm gonna be picking up a regular K1. Tired of FLSUN's crappy software and cheap clackity bearings.
I think the super racer gets a lot quieter if you dampen the steppers, but I kinda liked the noise...haha.
Actually I've written that idea down on the list because it's well within my capability to test the internal/external temps of the heat sink I think, and it would definitely be useful to know. Did you add it to both sides of the heat break (hot/cold?)
@@LostInTech3D I avoided the hotside since that's threaded, likely providing more points of contact to transfer the heat since the metal is under tension. Also, didn't want to get paste in the path of the filament. The SR uses a (kinda crappy) V6(ish) style cooler with pretty high tolerances, so I just used it on the cold side. I don't think the paste was rated for 3d printing temps, but I just assumed there was a built-in margin lol.
I did switch to a bi-metal heat break eventually, the steel one didn't allow for anything over 240c without constant clogs.
Paste on the cold side of the heatbreak is a known thing worth doing, it's in the assembly instructions for the e3d v6. Paste on the cold side will be at the same temp as the heatsink, which is a lot colder than the hot side, so regular PC paste is fine
Oh, for sure, the heat sink compound will dry out on the hot side. I believe you can get high temp stuff, but not easily. This is why people use boron nitride.
Using thermal glue on the cold side on v6 hotends helps with nozzle changes also and makes it more rigid
Had a K1 for 3 months and overall been really happy with it, however last week it decided to pack it in and wont print anything stable anymore, under extrusion and then birds nests every print. Progressively got worse and worse until its now unusable.
So im thinking the extruder has weakened and lost precisely control of filament feed and retract and as a result ruins prints. As its the original extruder i have asked to be sent a new one and lets see if that fixes the issue. Not great after only 20 or so prints.
That sounds like the standard experience with the v1 extruder, so yeah just change it over and should be fine
i love my k1 so much ive bought another unrepaired k1 again here in uk both cost me 200 each these are return creality printer we also have a ender 3 v3 ke that we hate and dont use any more
My problem with the Bambu Cool Plate is it's pointless. PLA prints fine on smooth or textured PEI at 55-60C (on the X1, anyway). The Cool Plate with glue stick seems to serve no purpose. So you're able to print at a 35C bed temp rather than 55C...does this somehow matter?
Cool plates are super useful if you want to print steep overhangs within a few mm from the bed without the radiant bed heat keeping the material from cooling down fully.
also cool plate with glue will perform significantly better at any temperature in terms of first layer adhesion, to the point it will pull off the magnet before it releases the corners of a part. Lower bed temp means lower chamber temp too, so less heat creep issues in a chamber. In theory.
I too prefer PEI for the convenience, but it's not clear cut which is outright better
@@LostInTech3D good points. I tried the Cool Plate with glue and my central issue was the sticker began to delaminate after only a few prints. This happened again after applying a new sticker, so I just switched to PEI. Engineering plate with glue seems to work just as well, too. I printed risers to lift the lid when printing PLA, to keep chamber temps down, as well.
I think part of the reason the x1 and x1c shipped with cool plates is due to being an enclosed printer and people mainly printing PLA so they did t have to remove the lid and prop the door open causing damage to either component.
Now for my 2 cents for whatever it’s worth. I’ve moved past all forms of PLA mostly, why? Because in the Bambu printers I have ABS so far has far outperformed PLA except for specifically voxelab and Bambu PLA, and even then I think the 15-20 buck ABS prints better. Not only that I finally had some PLA warp while I had it outside for just a few hours on a cool day. Even my wife who doesn’t know Jack about 3D printers noticed a massive quality difference. Do I still use pla? Yes on things I know for a fact will be indoor temp controlled and I have many many rolls of it still but for cosplay and armor I only use abs and ASA now.
Why do many of Creality machines print a line from the bottom left to the middle before starting the print proper? my Ender 5 Plus used to do it when I ran Crealities board and FW but if I used Octoprint it didnt do it., my friends Ender 5 does it also.
In the video I saw the K1 do it also.
The Ender 5 Plus was running Marlin at the time but the K1 is running Creality butchered Klipper
What are Creality doing to their firmware configurations to cause this? I have never seen it on other manufacturers printers
Good question, I actually saw something about this the other day but I'm scratching my head trying to remember. It's on purpose though, I think.
@@LostInTech3D If its on purpose then its probably to wind people up as before I got Octoprint I had to stay and wait for the print to start to remove it otherwise it made the first layer ugly
To prime / purge material.
@@destinal_in_reality No this is not the prime line, that is printed along the left hand side
nice one!
0:07 Holy hell, is that lens parfocal with a constant apeture?
you bet it is, one of my favourite things about this camera
It's hard to tell from the video, but they could have made the AC bed work well on 110V and 240V by splitting the bed resistance in two: the bed would have three terminals A, B and C, with half the heater between A and B, and the other half between B and C. If A is wired to neutral, then you get approximately the same power when C is switched to 240V, or when B is switched to 110V and C is switched to neutral.
This would explain why the bed power board is so complicated, and why there are 3 power wires (and earth) going to the bed. Other similar schemes could work too, for example just having two heaters with different resistances, and using one or the other.
Yes...I suspect so ..I'm going to be checking that out
@@LostInTech3D Cool, you can probably work out what'd going on by measuring the resistance between all three pairs of bed wires.
yes exactly
I'm undecided between this or bambu I want multiple color prints but I hate how small print size it is
256*256 is really not small tbh.
@LostInTech3D I have an ender 3 pro and bambu lab isn't that much bigger then that going from an ender to a k1 max 300x300x300 is definitely a change
Hear spray makes very good adhesion and homogeneous layer of glue
Glue stick ensures the print will come off as much as it ensures the print will stay on until then. ;)
I think there are 110 and 220 volt versions of the k1 max available. Otherwise a 600w bed would turn into a 150w bed when used in a 110v country, which would be utterly insufficient for a 300mm bed (a prusa mk3 bed has around 170w (calculated with 3,4ohm resistance), and that has a rather low heating performance). Artillery does it the same way and that is why ac beds are very uncommon. For example the cr m4 would presumably get more than 200 euros cheaper (just look for 800w psu and compare them to a 200w psu) and more efficient at the same time, but would require more logistics since you can't ship everywhere the same machine and add the locally used power cords at the warehouse. But creality knows that their customers will pay the price anyway because people still buy ender 3s1 for 340 euros when a sv06 only costs 260 and has more features/is more capable (not that a 3s1 is a bad printer, but pricing is ridiculous, the ender 5 is even worse), so they went with the easy way
Nope it's a single model with a 100-240v switchless PSU.
I'll see if I can check this out for real though...hold that thought....
@@LostInTech3D you are correct.
@@LostInTech3D there is no difference in the ac bed between us 110v and 220v market models? Dont get me wrong, but i highly doubt that. The psu itself isnt relevant for the ac bed, as you said, it switches accordingly. But lets say it would have 300w at 110v, which is still not high, at 220v it would have 1200w. A ratrig vcore 400 has 1100w bed and is around 78% larger in build surface
After some thought, I think there's multiple heating wires in the bed. When I get chance, I'll check.
My k1max got a key 2505 motor drive exception error after 4 hours of use
Unfortunately looks like a dead board
that's not great, they should absolutely send you a new one though.
@@LostInTech3D unfortunately they keep questioning me about belt tension and running the shaper tuning …… the printer won’t even home let alone do the self check
@@LostInTech3D UPDATE !
I found out that the heat sink they put onto the stepper drivers collides with the motherboard fan and it was putting pressure onto the driver for the X (A) motor (even tge heatsink is bent) I think this strain cracked the driver chip internally
I have been printing with my k1 for weeks with no glue stick, and no problems
Can you add an air carbon filter to the K1?
it doesnt have the mounting for one, but you could of course find a way.
I haven´t used glue stick on my Creality k1 max since i got it. It prints fine even with ASA. So i don´t know if Creality wants you to use it or not but from my experience its not needed.
I since swapped to their pei sheet which makes the entire issue go away 😁
I did a 30 hour print yesterday I've done 130 hrs on the K1 max I use glue sticks on tall parts only no need on the wider stuff
I bought the textured pei sheet for it and it makes it a whole lot better. I don't know why they don't ship with that
So, for a third k1, I feel like they would make a p1p machine. No frills, no glass, probably less electronics maybe no internal cooling fan and drop it at $399-450. That would be a HUGE bomb shell.
...or get the K1 for $350 these days. Gotta love the holidays.
What do you mean, you can't legitimately get root / "Klipper accessibility?" My pre-rooted firmware is pretty legitimate?
They added root access to the sonic pad after a few months. I expect they will here too.
@@LostInTech3D yes, I asked in the AMA they've said they will be giving us root access in September along with the source code release. I just wouldn't have used the world legitimate. Maybe officially supported method is better
hardware looks solid. I still worry about their software. Creality's reputation for half-baked solutions is well deserved at this point.
No worries - the community will shore up the software front given enough time.
@@destinal_in_reality Unless those fixes ship on the hardware from the factory most users will never apply them, meaning they're a problem for the life of the hardware.
Plenty of people mod Creality stuff heavily. they aren't the ones I'm worried about. These machines are supposed to be good out of the box to compete with Bambu. There is active disincentive to fixing it on the consumer end of things.
@@dtaggartofRTD well I don't know what to say about that. I don't ever expect a Chinese printer manufacturer to design great firmware. From my perspective the fact that we can make and share our own is what makes it viable.
@@destinal_in_reality We're power users. That's what we do. However, it's important to remember that the vast majority of users will only use it in its stock configuration.
Hardware design is flawed. Junk box.
I think Creality did a great job overall with the K1 and K1 Max. I advised people there would probably be some teething issues, but especially once the code is out and any early revisions are finished, should be a super solid printer.
I think so. This was almost exactly how it went with the Ender 3 V2 as I remember it, so many teething issues but now it's probably one of the most reliable/maintainable printers out there if you ignore the extruder arm
Another solid point about the K1/Max is that there are already alternative hotends coming out from TriangleLabs that are more similar to Bambu Labs but push the volumetric flow to rather insane heights, and Knomi integration directly into a new hotbed cover that Omranello is currently testing. Already several new bed plates out there as well.
This thing is basically a “Core X/Y Ender 3” in terms of the community starting to figure out how to augment/improve the K1/Max well beyond spec.
I'll check those out, I wasn't aware of that!
I'm curious what you think will be the benefit of the source code release. Can you explain that a bit more?
@@destinal_in_reality It means that people will be able to modify the existing software, customize it, fix bugs, add features, rather than having to start from scratch if they want to customize their printer. It will also give insights into how exactly Creality has setup all the systems in the printer. I don't have experience coding for 3D printers, but I do have a programming degree. Primarily it just gives a code base to work from rather than making people reinvent the wheels that are already in the machine.
just subbscribed..cool channel..may i ask you a feedback cause m struggling wich choise is bettere between k1max quidi xmax3 and a p1s with ams....in term of quality that is my first goal...the others ar more usable cause are bigger but the ams is phenomenal to have.....m so confuse... thanks so much for your time and anyone else want to join this comment ;) cheers from italy
I don't have the qidi yet, but I understand it's perfectly fine. Be advised it's huge though, really big 😂 as far as the P1s goes, its a pretty easy to use platform as it's highly automated
9:00 Your explanation of what makes a bimetalic break isn't quite on the mark, it's less to do with the barrier between the two materials, and more to do with the materials themselves. The stainless/titanium throat greatly restricts how fast heat transfers across it(thin material, hollow tube), then once it hits the copper region it rapidly dissipates that into the heatsink, It makes the hot zone stay closer to the heat end, and keeps excessive heat-bleed from becoming overwhelming to cool off, and a needless power draw.
you are correct, it is in fact a combination of both (I think? I'll have to consult my engineer contacts). If I get chance I might try to image it at some point. I've found that hard to do in the past as there are some very non emissive surfaces and hard to see parts, but it's something I've been meaning to do for a while perhaps using a combination of probes and FLIR.
@@LostInTech3DThat is fair, I'm sure that interface between them is also more a loss that the lossy material on its own! And hmm, I think a nesting stainless and aluminum pipe piece at minimum, would be a good way to visualize this, the aluminum side also needs a crude heatsink, and the stainless a heater source like a load resistor, running at a more reasonable temperature region, you could stick black electrical tape along the surface for an emissivity gradient, I'd even suggest coil-wrapping to cover the entire surface, just so the IR reflections of any raw metal surfaces are removed. Going a step further, you could push paraffin wax through and simulate filament and heat flow/removal..PTFE liners, the sky is the limit I'm sure.
can it use the sonic pad
Not sure why you need to.
I have printed for 66 hours and going on my k1 max and have never put glue or anything other than alcohol on my build plate. I have never had a single adhesion issue.
do the marks come off or do you just roll with it?
What marks? I am not being coy but I am not sure what you are referring too.
I showed in the vid how I'd printed without glue and it left a permanent mark. Are you not getting that on yours?
@@LostInTech3D No I get some very light temporary marks some times but the only permanent ones are where I have scraped at the bed. I have only used pla so far though. I don't know if other types will be different.
interesting. I'll see what happens with the marks on my bed. Although I prolly will get PEI before too long
Does it. Have a mic-6 bed?
isn't that a trademark name, so, I doubt it
@LostInTech3D no its a type of engineering bed plate. The flatest surface on earth and it doesn't bow or deform under heat
yes and it's a trademark name of alcoa - I checked.
never even once used gluestick (guckie schmoo) with my p1p. I have tho used "hairspray" that have worked very well! when my prints started to lose grip, i just sprayed it, with the same spray as i used when i printed on my old anycobic mega. K1 still doesent impress me compared to p1p. Just feels like a clone.
Bambu is a voron clone (by that standard of comparison), and Creality made at least two coreXYs before they existed, it's kind of moot calling anything a clone because a new model has steered the market in a given direction. I don't really think anyone would expect the other manufacturers not to copy the design, it's kind of inevitable. I imagine bambu would do the same. It's just how it is. Like how all phones look the same.
How is the belt path/dimensional accuracy in the corners of the bed?
I'll have a check on that
Failing after less than 500 hours would be a fail in itself: even my self, poorly built HEVO did more than that without requiring maintenance! Let's not celebrate it as an achievement of any kind.
I’m frustrated, actually I’m thinking to buy k1/K1 Max , but reviews on amzon not as good to make me buy one, in the other hand BambuLab has very fantastic reviews but here in my country k1 max 1250$ while X1C Bambu lab with AMS is about 2100$ which is Alot , does it worth to buy bambulab X1C over creality considering that difference in price , and the build volume is for K1 Max , any advice !?
yes prices are not different in turkey bamboo x1c 2000dollar pre-order comes after 1 month.k1 max 1020dollars so I decided to buy k1max.macro swiss hotend upgrade and bed leveling if done properly I think it will give a performance close to bamboo.I hope it will reach the end of February k1max
You don't have to bother with glue if using PLA
my plate is not marked up either..
12:26 this pulley looks crooked...
No direct extruder ? I guess flexible materials remain out of reach.🤔
yes it's a direct extruder, although you would have to take the lid off and put the tpu directly into the extruder rather than through the tube, it should work. Tell you what, I'll make a youtube short on this, give me a day or two!
@@LostInTech3D Just dont fall down another rabbit hole.
almost certainly going to happen :D
I have printed a small amount of TPU through the full length of tubing and the filament sensor. Didn’t seem to come out all that bad, aside from stringing issues of course
So I had issues with k1, that it couldn't print circles/cylinder.... round, screw holes for example, it would be ovaled instead of you know a circular shape.
Felt like belts weren't even length wise or the the steps/mm for one of the steppers was wrong... adjusting the belt tensions did nothing to fix it even had the so called tech we bought the from printer from attempt to fix the problem and just hand waved the issue as normal...where his walls were delamenting from each other unevenly like at 9 till 11 o'clock position and opposite side, 3 till 5 o'clock but the rest would be fine we just got a refund after much back and forth
That is a common problem, I should probably write that down as something to cover, because I think it happens a lot for probably multiple reasons.
I assume you could tune steps on printer.cfg
Personally i think creality did a fine job of copying bambu. How very original of them hahaha
You need to see the TwoTrees SK-1, is copying Bambu Lab in design and Creality in the name
I want one. I don't need one.
Avoid the K1 Max for at least 6+ months, it's full of issues.
When’s the Neptune 4 pro review dropping also please unban me Losty!!!
neptune 4 is coming. The other issue is probably something we can discuss in private...you can email me.
@@LostInTech3Dthank you Losty!!
03:00 You are literally reviewing a 3D printer ... Print something to do that :)
Buildplate looks like #%¤# pretty crap if you need glue.
It's a type of build plate that needs a release agent.
It's funny that you mentioned "it looks fine" while printing a horrible VFA Max print in your video, lol. You did not notice the worst VFA of any printer in history. Not a good review at all. Down vote, for making sure you keep getting free printers Creality. Boooooo
Are you going to come back with tomatoes to throw for the next comment or what
@@LostInTech3D lol, I would :) 🍅🍅🍅🍅🍅🍅🍅 Look man people are going waste peoples money thinking the K1 Max is good to go. It is not. It's a rush build with none-repairable defects in the design and flaws that make it impossible to have a clean surface on any 3d print. A hard fail! In 2023 that's not even an option there are to many great printer now. You missed the mark.. You get! 🍅🍅🍅🍅's fix it! 💖
The frequent umms and ahhhs and random pauses in your narration can get a little distracting at times and make it slightly harder to follow what you're saying - as a suggestion you could maybe write all your thoughts down onto a script first and then read it
I'm impressed that you think I just come out with all this off the top of my head!
@@LostInTech3D my bad! I don’t mean to cause offence, just an observation from someone who generally enjoys your content
Haha, if you can't tell I'm reading then that counts for something
K1 Max is a VFA junk box. Worst design for VFA in all printer history, lol. The design is wrong, I believe it's the massive xy gear pulley making over powered stepper noise worse. Solve the VFA Lost In Tech brother, that's a video! K1 MAX: No quality control, rush builds, a joke in my option. I bought 2 of these nightmare box's. Creality has died, Bamboo sweeps.