Thanks for all your great videos. Much appreciated. Funny I was just looking into the same issue an hour ago. Same time as you posted this video. My pressure plate do not have pin holes. So I plan to drill such before balancing (at a shop) and assembly. Also. When I unscrewed the flywheel screw I also made a long torque bar (1.5m). Didn’t work with 80kg at the end. Then I remembered I have a TorqueMeister in my storage. That fixed the job! I guess the problem is that friction becomes a dominant factor. On top of the elasticity of the steel. Big fan of your videos! Tom from Denmark.
Thanks, and best of luck on your engine. I'll let you know how the balancing goes on my end. I think the pin alignment is key. Not sure how the factory balanced this assembly?
I feel your pain. Undoing all that hard work after slowly building. And painting. And cleaning. Hood thing is. No stuck bolts!! Every bolt is either new or cleaned. Carry on bud!
I go through phases where I like one more than the other. Currently, I want to drive more because I've been working in it so long. My 911 is about to come apart again because I can't help but to fix it and make it better. I try to keep at least one running at all times.
Jam a centerpunch into the fuel line to prevent the leakage. I had the fuel lines attached to the engine bay on my Speedster and used an electric pump, so I removed the carb/fuel line banjo bolts before lowering the engine. Reuse the nut, replace the oil seal! ( I dont' think mankind is strong enough to break a flywheel bolt). When you pulled the engine, it looked like there were two punchmarks on the flywheel that would align with two corresponding punchmarks on the pressure plate (and I didn't see them if they were there). If present, they would indicate the proper position for mounting the pressure plate. Since this video's a year old, I assume you corrected the problem. What was it?
Thanks for the tips. I had the pressure plate and flywheel rebalanced and the engine runs very smooth now. Really happy with the car now. ua-cam.com/video/DSDA1t-dfvs/v-deo.htmlsi=XhlmjrgnYrsuJauz
This is the kind of deal that drives me nuts... I just spent a week taking a carb on and off my plane in the attempt to get smooth high rpm running... Like 7 times then I finally nailed it and guess what... I just realized I didn't cotter the float pin.. holy crap!
I have noticed that you seldom use an air impact gun or butterfly impact tool to remove stubborn bolts/nuts. I have found that sometimes the bolt/nut just needs a quick and light impact instead of a constant torque to release. Wonder what are your thoughts on this?
Whatever works is best! I attack stubborn hardware with three levels. Level 1 is standard hand tools or breaker bar plus penetration oil. Level 2 is impact wrench (my wrench isn't that strong) Level 3 is oxy/acetylene torch to heat nuts to cherry red. In this video, I don't have a strong enough impact wrench to take the flywheel nut off. There are some powerful tools out there, but you also need the right sockets etc. I feel like impact hammers can do some galling of threads etc, so I don't use it that often. For example, I recently sent a pair of cooling fans out to be balanced. One was damaged by the use of an impact wrench. The hole looks like a butterfly instead of a slot. There's no wrong way. Whatever works with what you've got.
This may not be your problem, but I had a similar type of bad vibration after rebuilding a Alfa Romeo 105 engine that also had a single big nut securing the flywheel. After pulling the engine back out, the problem turned out to be that I hadn't chased all the old Loctite out of the threads in the crankshaft. So, when I had tightened the nut the Loctite residue was pushed to the bottom and the nut bottomed out on that residue and, even though it was tightened to the proper torque, the flywheel was not really secure and would vibrate at a certain engine RPM range (3500 - 4000). A real bummer, but a good learning experience.
Thanks for sharing your experience. I will check that the nut/bolt has enough room to travel beyond the clamping point before I reassemble. Loktite can be a pain to clean out.
Hi, (1) I had the same problem with vibration at about 2500-3000 rpm. It was, indeed, a missing alignment pin in the pressure plate/flywheel. (2) I made a flywheel rotation holder of a piece of angle iron, about 2x2x1/4" about 6 feet long. Has two holes to match up with threaded holes in flywheel that normally the pressure plate bolts screw into. (3) Will be obvious to anybody, but ya shoulda showed removing the rear cover plate above the muffler, along with the air cleaners. Just for completeness. (4) Also, do you shut off the fuel at petcock beforehand? (5) Well done with the cardboard protection pieces. Now did this all turn out? Is there a follow-on video?
Did you balance the flywheel and pressure plate before installing ? If so should be a locating pin for the pressure plate provided by whomever did the balancing. Rods and pistons weighed to match ? Heads CC'd for correct, balanced compression ? All important to a smooth engine. For easy removal of the top bolts there are nuts available that have roll pins inserted in them to prevent turning, easy enough to do yourself. Cheers.
Yep, this engine was fully vetted as a smooth runner before the paint and body resto. But the pressure plate was taken off and probably not put back in the exact same place. If you are new to these videos, welcome and thanks for watching.
Seems like the pressure plate was way off balance to need that much correction. If you are going to balance the fan, I read that it is a good thing to tack weld the blades in place to keep them from ever loosening up. Probably over kill.
Good point about the pressure plate being way off. Hopefully the balancer will tell me what I need to do. Was already planning on TIG welding the fan prior to balance. I'm all about overkill! In my view, I'm always trying to prevent failure. Sometimes those fans fail.
Not intended as a criticism by any means. We all greatly appreciate your videos. The shots you had were great, but I am struggling with getting to the transmission side top bolts, especially the one at the starter. I think x-ray vision would help or maybe an intermediate elbow/wrist between my existing elbow and wrist. It’s probably impossible to get a camera in there but maybe you could explain your process/ technique.
Thanks John. I will show the secret next time. But I confess the long starter bolt has been modified with a welded pin that prevents it from turning more than about 90 deg. Highly recommend it.
Balancing and pinning the pressure plate and flywheel fixed it. ua-cam.com/video/F5ZPb24_KEQ/v-deo.html Now it's driving great ua-cam.com/video/DSDA1t-dfvs/v-deo.html
Really enjoying the 1st person shots. Thanks Tom.
Thank you! You can see the difference in camera quality, but I hope everyone can see what I'm doing. That's a gopro strapped to my head, ha ha.
Thanks for all your great videos. Much appreciated. Funny I was just looking into the same issue an hour ago. Same time as you posted this video. My pressure plate do not have pin holes. So I plan to drill such before balancing (at a shop) and assembly.
Also. When I unscrewed the flywheel screw I also made a long torque bar (1.5m). Didn’t work with 80kg at the end. Then I remembered I have a TorqueMeister in my storage. That fixed the job! I guess the problem is that friction becomes a dominant factor. On top of the elasticity of the steel.
Big fan of your videos! Tom from Denmark.
Thanks, and best of luck on your engine. I'll let you know how the balancing goes on my end. I think the pin alignment is key. Not sure how the factory balanced this assembly?
I would think the missing alignment pin would be the smoking gun. FWIW. Thanks for video.
That's my hunch too. I hope you're right! Easy fix....
I feel your pain. Undoing all that hard work after slowly building. And painting. And cleaning. Hood thing is. No stuck bolts!! Every bolt is either new or cleaned. Carry on bud!
True, If this was strictly a show car I would have left it alone, but I want it to drive very well too.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto question: what do you enjoy more. The process of fixing it or driving it?
I personally like working on it more than driving it.
I go through phases where I like one more than the other. Currently, I want to drive more because I've been working in it so long. My 911 is about to come apart again because I can't help but to fix it and make it better. I try to keep at least one running at all times.
Jam a centerpunch into the fuel line to prevent the leakage. I had the fuel lines attached to the engine bay on my Speedster and used an electric pump, so I removed the carb/fuel line banjo bolts before lowering the engine. Reuse the nut, replace the oil seal! ( I dont' think mankind is strong enough to break a flywheel bolt). When you pulled the engine, it looked like there were two punchmarks on the flywheel that would align with two corresponding punchmarks on the pressure plate (and I didn't see them if they were there). If present, they would indicate the proper position for mounting the pressure plate. Since this video's a year old, I assume you corrected the problem. What was it?
Thanks for the tips. I had the pressure plate and flywheel rebalanced and the engine runs very smooth now. Really happy with the car now.
ua-cam.com/video/DSDA1t-dfvs/v-deo.htmlsi=XhlmjrgnYrsuJauz
Fingers crossed it's only the alignment pin. Good luck.
I'll tell you what the balancer says. I'm confident the engine itself is ok.
This is the kind of deal that drives me nuts... I just spent a week taking a carb on and off my plane in the attempt to get smooth high rpm running... Like 7 times then I finally nailed it and guess what... I just realized I didn't cotter the float pin.. holy crap!
Ugh, we've all been there over and over again.
I have noticed that you seldom use an air impact gun or butterfly impact tool to remove stubborn bolts/nuts. I have found that sometimes the bolt/nut just needs a quick and light impact instead of a constant torque to release. Wonder what are your thoughts on this?
Whatever works is best! I attack stubborn hardware with three levels.
Level 1 is standard hand tools or breaker bar plus penetration oil.
Level 2 is impact wrench (my wrench isn't that strong)
Level 3 is oxy/acetylene torch to heat nuts to cherry red.
In this video, I don't have a strong enough impact wrench to take the flywheel nut off. There are some powerful tools out there, but you also need the right sockets etc.
I feel like impact hammers can do some galling of threads etc, so I don't use it that often.
For example, I recently sent a pair of cooling fans out to be balanced. One was damaged by the use of an impact wrench. The hole looks like a butterfly instead of a slot.
There's no wrong way. Whatever works with what you've got.
This may not be your problem, but I had a similar type of bad vibration after rebuilding a Alfa Romeo 105 engine that also had a single big nut securing the flywheel. After pulling the engine back out, the problem turned out to be that I hadn't chased all the old Loctite out of the threads in the crankshaft. So, when I had tightened the nut the Loctite residue was pushed to the bottom and the nut bottomed out on that residue and, even though it was tightened to the proper torque, the flywheel was not really secure and would vibrate at a certain engine RPM range (3500 - 4000). A real bummer, but a good learning experience.
Thanks for sharing your experience. I will check that the nut/bolt has enough room to travel beyond the clamping point before I reassemble. Loktite can be a pain to clean out.
Hi, (1) I had the same problem with vibration at about 2500-3000 rpm. It was, indeed, a missing alignment pin in the pressure plate/flywheel. (2) I made a flywheel rotation holder of a piece of angle iron, about 2x2x1/4" about 6 feet long. Has two holes to match up with threaded holes in flywheel that normally the pressure plate bolts screw into. (3) Will be obvious to anybody, but ya shoulda showed removing the rear cover plate above the muffler, along with the air cleaners. Just for completeness. (4) Also, do you shut off the fuel at petcock beforehand? (5) Well done with the cardboard protection pieces. Now did this all turn out? Is there a follow-on video?
Yes, there are several more videos on this car, but here's the one where the vibration is fixed
ua-cam.com/video/F5ZPb24_KEQ/v-deo.html
Did you balance the flywheel and pressure plate before installing ? If so should be a locating pin for the pressure plate provided by whomever did the balancing. Rods and pistons weighed to match ? Heads CC'd for correct, balanced compression ? All important to a smooth engine. For easy removal of the top bolts there are nuts available that have roll pins inserted in them to prevent turning, easy enough to do yourself. Cheers.
Yep, this engine was fully vetted as a smooth runner before the paint and body resto. But the pressure plate was taken off and probably not put back in the exact same place. If you are new to these videos, welcome and thanks for watching.
Seems like the pressure plate was way off balance to need that much correction. If you are going to balance the fan, I read that it is a good thing to tack weld the blades in place to keep them from ever loosening up. Probably over kill.
Good point about the pressure plate being way off. Hopefully the balancer will tell me what I need to do.
Was already planning on TIG welding the fan prior to balance. I'm all about overkill!
In my view, I'm always trying to prevent failure. Sometimes those fans fail.
Good work as usual but I was hoping for some insight into reaching the top bolts.
I worked hard to get those camera shots of me loosening all the bolts. Not sure how to make this more clear? Let me know.
Not intended as a criticism by any means. We all greatly appreciate your videos. The shots you had were great, but I am struggling with getting to the transmission side top bolts, especially the one at the starter. I think x-ray vision would help or maybe an intermediate elbow/wrist between my existing elbow and wrist. It’s probably impossible to get a camera in there but maybe you could explain your process/ technique.
Thanks John. I will show the secret next time. But I confess the long starter bolt has been modified with a welded pin that prevents it from turning more than about 90 deg.
Highly recommend it.
Another instructive video. BTW how much for the engine stand?
Thanks. $350 for the frame, $229 for starter adapter, $109 for wiring and control box.
Ladies and Gentleman,, The Wife. I hope it wont be difficult to fix this vibration.
Now you have met her legs, maybe next time she'll make a full appearance?? Maybe on a drive once the seats and door panels are in?
Wife just had her nails done and you asking her to do this. Lol. Yo I must hate life.
Ha ha, I should be the ones getting my nails done! Did you see her check to see how dirty her hands got?
I just have to know, who is playing the Hammond organ. It sounds fantastic? I must see Your video twice, that is a benefit👍
I'd give credit to the artist, but it's just from the copyright free UA-cam music library.
What happened to the vibration. What was it? I have the same issue.
Kevin
Balancing and pinning the pressure plate and flywheel fixed it.
ua-cam.com/video/F5ZPb24_KEQ/v-deo.html
Now it's driving great
ua-cam.com/video/DSDA1t-dfvs/v-deo.html
Tom, does the vibration occur at a specific RPM regardless of what gear you're in?
Yes it follows engine speed and is there in all gears. Goes away when coasting and clutch in
Yeah I was thinking drive train as well. But your test is solid. It is from the engine.
U need a heavier partner. Lol!
Ha ha, no thank you