We learned some things… Ultimate Street Car Charging System How To : Tech Tip Tuesday
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- Опубліковано 26 лип 2021
- In this Tech Tip Tuesday, we made a huge mistake with the XS battery and charging system. Let's fix it.
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I'd love to see a video about the pros and cons of fuel coolers
Think of voltage the same way you would think of pressure in a water or plumbing system. The added pressure makes things work better but can also wear things out quicker.
What a perfect video to come out at the perfect time. My buddy went through a new alternator every other pass with his excess battery this weekend and it left us charging the car in between runs (no bueno). Sounds like its worth getting the 16v upgrade for sure. Thanks Doug!
Can we see a build off with you and John versus Cleet and jack stand
Hell yeah brother!
Good point. Thahk's again! These short Tech Tips Tuesday videos are great idea.
Great tips buddy keep them coming 💪💪
Thank you for the info! Ive been waiting for this update.
Great info!! Xtreme in background looks amazing already!
Definitely will be looking into the 14v system
Excellent information thank you Doug
Thank you Doug for the information 👍👍
Thanks for the honest input.
Enjoy all the tech tips
Love it brother. Thanks for sharing. God Bless..
Good information!
Great content thanks for sharing
I would like to hear more about your thoughts on the different type of wiring, and insulation. What you use for what and why would be pretty cool. If you have already done it, I'll try and find it.
World changing info! Thank you for all the effort on this series!!! KUDO'S gang!!!
Good update Doug. Just had a similar situation. I have a 16 volt XS battery in my street/strip Nova, a new build. (Should have went with the 14 volt system due to not being able to jump off a 16 volt, unless someone else has a 16 volt, fat chance, oh well.) Sent my old alt to Power Master for a 12 to 16 volt conversion. They set it at 18 volts. Put it on and wound up not being enough amps to run everything. It produced 104 top end and 67 amps at idle. It wasn’t enough, so wound up sending it back again. They replaced it with another one that makes 160 top end and 110 amps at idle. That fixed my issues completely. All that said to say to your followers, make sure the alternator is putting out the required amperage to cover your needs. In addition, Power Master gives great customer service. I highly recommend them, great company.
I've jumped my 16 volt system off of a 12volt car. smh
Thanks for the update i have the battery but i can get that alternator and not the multi volt alternator. 👍
Rockin the Cleetus shirt! 🤟
Yep, alternators need to be rated higher voltage than the battery.
Alternators "push" voltage into batteries, if you're running the same voltage rating battery and alternator this will happen.
I always look forward to tech tip tuesdays...👍 but this setup still be good for a vehicle that sees alot of street driving ?
morning, good stuff to know, I had an old off-road truck lost way too many battery charging systems
Doug any tech tips or secrets you know on anything to put out there for those of us building GM 2500hd 4x4 trucks. Not sure how many of us are out there with these heavy trucks. I know few a of us are building them to try and beat on the diesel truck guys. Doing such events like drag racing, wheel dyno, 300ft dirt drags and sled pulling. Thanks for any secrets to be shared.
Hi Doug. How do you accommodate sensitive 12 volt components in a 16.5 volt operating car. for example standard 12 volt bulbs would not last very long and some 12 volt control modules would achieve overvoltage protection. Cheers
I ran a 16 volt system for years. Power windows, mirrors, lights, stereo, etc. No issues. I love the people that say you can't run 16 volts on 12 volt stuff. lol smh
Can you put a part number on here for the alternator you recommend
482478.
I wonder what you guys think of the Full River line of batteries - brass terminals, made from new materials and not recycled, not inexpensive.
Would love to see a tech tip Tuesday about setting up leaf springs suspension.
Yep I bought the battery after your video and it has been nothing but problems.
How do you go about picking rear gear ratios? For 1/8 mile is it peak hp at the rpm when u cross the finish line?? I have built 4r70w (OD), also whats a good rpm to cruise on highways with od street strip car
Did you get a spare to take for race week?
Nice.
Is 'pinching' a tire that has a 'recommended' rim width of 8" onto a 6.5" rimokay to help reduce the likelyhood of 'spinning' the rim in the tire?
Would this available for a Ford style with an external regulator?
Need to be careful charging at 16.5 on a vehicle without confidence that all the electronics are rated to operate that high. Alot of commercial 12V electronics are only rated to operate up to 15.5V.
No
Can you put up the part numbers for the LS 14v alternator and the battery that you use?
been looking for someone or a source for different sized pulleys. I have a Powermaster as well but would like to install an ATI 15% UD crankshaft pulley. I need ALL the amps with my electric fans and and stereo, so I need a 15% smaller alternator pulley to keep the ratio consistent. Any ideas?
How about manufacturing a pulley set with deep sidewalls? I am tired of throwing ribbed belts. All of the fancy laser alignment tools, billet mounts, etc and I still throw belts from my Pro Charger on my C5. High sided pulleys might be the answer as long as the sides aren't too high where you can't get the belt on it
@Doug, when will we see some GMT360 products from Motion Raceworks?
Gonna stock beefed up Alternators now and sell them ?
Do you need to step down the voltage for the Holley Dominator EFI computer or any of its components? It seems it the system and sensors were designed to run on 12 volts and you’re feeding it 14-16.8 your sensors aren’t going to report the correct information
the dominator will not have an issue. some of the ignition coils i would watch out because they are 17 volt max. i'm switching to 16v xs battery and charger and will have no issues with the dominator
the sensors will still be on a regulated 5VDC source from the ECU
My battery took a dump (2000 Trans AM) and it's time to do some homework. I like the idea of a 14v battery as I'm running dual fuel pumps, two big fans etc on my procharged setup. Do you know if they make the excess voltage alternator in a stock f-body housing? I can't run the truck alternator because it's slightly larger, which causes an interference with where the procharger is mounted on the f-bodies.
Do you have a link or model number for this alternator for a LS? And what size battery are you using?
According to Apple it’s a feature on every new gadget that they “re-release” - “Better battery life, 10hrs a charge.”
Remember charging your Nokia 3210 once a week?
The more Apps and shit I have running the shorter my battery life.
I’ve honestly seen nothing innovative since the phone 5ish. Except bigger and more fragile.
My iPad 3 was great till Apple begun de-activating them via software updates “time bombs” because they were built too well they couldn’t sell you a new one. My iPad 12 is so fragile it’s attracted to hard objects that make it explode, and it does nothing the pad3 couldn’t.
What’s the part number for alternator and battery
Does anyone have the part number for ls engines? Looking to order one of these! Have the ict billet ls1/6/3 ect high mount!
So are you running your car's system off of the 14 volts from the battery or are you you running the system off of the amp's from the alternator?
You should offer these on your site. Do you have part number? Thanks.. called and got the part numbers for 165amp And 220amp. Powermaster new exactly what i need.Thanks for update doug . Car died on me when loading on trailer.Now i know why.lol
My G8 Pontiac already running on 14volts can I come up in volts on it . I live in Australia so here its a VE COMMODORE V8 SS L98 2006.
Very informative but some systems in some cars will not with stand that kind of voltage most race car systems will but factory stock won't
So far so good
Do I need to upgrade the wiring or anything to run a 14v battery and a 16v alternator. I have a 2007 chevy monte carlo ss .53 turbo with a 4t80e. But stock computer, etc.
Running a higher voltage will actually decrease the amp draw if the wattage remains constant. Your current wiring should be fine. The higher voltage will actually allow more wattage through the same size wire.
Having built multiple lithium battery banks for car stereos I'm kind of shocked... Working voltage and balancing voltage are different with any battery chemistry
Does it put out excessive amperage at 8000 rpm+
Also what does the new alternator cost to support the xs battery
you can have a shop modify you existing alternator if they know what they are doing. my brother used to fix alternators (not many people do anymore) and you can take a standard 10si and make it charge for 14 or 16v systems. check some local shops if you have one. or search your style online as there are several people that make them.
You guys should do a checklist video for a complete build from front to back. Turbo car lol
Do you do anything with the holley when charging the 14v battery with 16.8 v from alternator? Do you switch holley to 16v?
Holley can recognize 12-16vs, it's fine
I’m looking to do a budget 10 second drag car built what is the best LS motor for a build like this?
You can do that with a turbo 4.8 or 5.3
A JY 6.0 with a cam swap with make over 500hp, should be plenty to go 10's in a typical hot rod.
I've been in the car audio field for over 30 years seen people cooked their OEM vehicles by going to 16 volts set up. If you want to step up to a 16-volt system you will need a step-down box to run the inside of the vehicle OEM electronics. The 16 volt setup was designed for high-end car audio amplifiers putting out kilowatts of power and to run the amplifiers only. If you have a totally built vehicle like motion 16 volts should not be a problem with today's aftermarket electronics but if you're running OEM don't do it without a step-down box to protect your OEM electronics.
how do efi systems like pro m, Holley etc, handle 16+ volts when those systems are designed around the standard 12v battery?
Most are built 12 and 16v compatible. Almost all of the big dog race cars run 16v
@@MotionRaceworksOfficial I'm guessing the car then is built around 16v system. you just cant drop a 14v battery in have it charge at 16.4v in any car.
poorly!
@@ldnwholesale8552 can you explain?
Being as it charges at 16 volts does that affect the 12-volt system any
No not at all. It helps your things run cooler and more efficient. I been making and running DIY lithium battery from old laptop batts for more than 5 years for are cars. We found this as time had gone on. God Bless.
14v is the beat of both worlds assuming your alternator is up to it. The 16 v batteries require 19-19.5 bolts to charge which is too high for most 12v components. MSD recommends no more than 18v to their boxes. Pumps and fans aren’t going to live a long life above 16v. XS will be happy to sell voltage reducers to go along with the 16 v batteries but that’s just adding more complexity.
@@jjpoissant Right that's why the alternator will max around 16.4 volts.
@@yankey4 for a 14v system. you should charge a 16v at 19 as jeremy posted
@@BoostedRide Right for a 16 volt batt but we are discussing a 14 volt batt. Max on that depending on the battery chemistry. 16.4 to around 16. 7 volts would be the max safe charge.
Why not 16v battery set up with alternator? Just curious
N by the way, Full spectrum power are by far the best batterie for racing on the planet. By far!
Welp waiting for my battery to die now off ur recommendation whomp😂
Video about the rear suspension on the nova, shock settings and bar adjustments
You are creating more problems running 16volts to charge that battery. You run the same Spal fans I run. Spal tech support advised me 14 volt is max, you will greatly shorten there lifespan. I think it might work if the fans are brushless, but they are not.. My stereo has a label on it....14 volt is max.
I looked into this year's ago, it just didn't add up to convert to a 14 volt system.
it really is designed for race use not everyday use. if people are draining their everyday battery they should look at a higher amp output not volts.
@@BoostedRide Race use, grab a 16 volt setup. Drag week and weekend warrior, stay with the 12 volt setup. 14 is a great choice, technology just isn't there yet...
Or do what you did with the crown vic and run stuff off tool batteries!!!!
Tubes vs no tubes in rear tires!
Situational. Benefits to both sides.
My shit smells like ketchup … does that mean dat shit dead
So now I gotta buy another battery wtf bud, seriously I did what you recommended and couldn't figure out why I'd make a pass and have to charge it every time
people make mistakes. at least he is here to man up about it. if you question anything call the manufacture before purchasing to verify your application. xs is more than willing to help anyone.
@@BoostedRide ya I know I fucked up, I'm still a major supporter of Doug, just I don't have Money like that u know, now another 300 for an alternator and hopefully the battery is ok
@@88_turbo_fox73 I get it. Have done it myself.
I doubt all the electronics can handle that
👍👍🇨🇱
I took ur advice Doug but my 14 volt battery doesn't hold a charge for shit
Ya I took his advice to got the alt and the battery. Hope your money is easy made than mine, because that was a big chuck out of my pocket.
Doh, I just airfreighted an alternator from you guys to replicate your setup following your advice….:(
Basically you had a 2000 HP battery tender , almost. Just sayin' .
Why does North America refuse to join the 24 volt world ??
This dude just rambling...
Actually you do not have a perfect set up. Nearly all starters etc are designed nominally 12 volt. meaning max 14 volt. Too much charge is as bad as too little charge and will burn out efi pumps, or plain old Holley pumps etc. Even good ignition boxes should be 14V max.
Also I look and see a teenie little pulley on that alternator. Fine running along at 3000 rpm. But when you turn over 7000 they short out or just stop charging. Alternators on race cars are an instrument of the devil!! You have to slow that alternator down by a LOT. Crank speed or just below for street driving and less for out and out racing.
The usual deal is a far bigger pulley on the alternator or a far smaller crank pulley. Both of which with serpentine belts are often an issue. In that V belts are more reliable,,, sometimes. And electric water pumps are far from ideal as well. And drag a shitload of power charging A mechanical waterpump seldom causes issues though again slow them down to crank speed or as little as 75%. But that is no good for the road, Crank speed is generally fine.
I road raced succesfully for 25 plus years and nearly all of that without an alternator at all. 3 day meetings, 50-80 miles a meeting on one good quality modern roadcar battery. Even running lights though they were not great. That however with a plain HEI ignition not High Intensity. No fans but a Carter or Holley fuel pump. High Intensity is a bit more voltage dependent,, though again 14V.
All of this proven on my own 3 different cars as well as cars I prepared inc speedway sedans