I have a lot of chiller calls on the job Board coming up , so I should have another video or two on them sometime this coming week. Thanks for watching
🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘. I remember the first time i messed with a filter core....wasn't ready for the spring when i took off the cover. Well i found out real quick. Lol
Brother you should show how to store gas and how to release gas before we removed filter drier and which way to best for gas charge in chiller pressure Guage or kg limit
Yes I really don’t like the design , on top of that you have to get it OEM from trane and it’s ridiculously overpriced . I think the last one I got was close to $300 dollars .
@@lookItsJayden on this particular model RTAC you have to use an OEM drier from trane , the standard size 48 drier core is too wide to fit inside the drier shell. Trust me I tried 😂
I’m struggling with an rtwd chiller been working very well but now it’s tripping on low refrigerant temperature. Possibly low on charge what do you think when you see those alRms
Could be a few different things but immediate thought would be low on charge. Check all connections including threaded connections for sensors and transducers , king valves , etc with soap bubbles . Many leaks common from those areas on all Trane chillers. Pull all panels and inspect coils for oil stains . It’s possible could be a metering device problem but not likely - usually you’d get a low suction super heat alarm. After checking with bubbles , pull the water strainer and verify if it’s clean or dirty . Final step to actually know for sure if it’s low charge would be recover the charge and weigh the charge and compare to data tag. If for example your charge weight is 120 lbs and you only recover 70 lbs this for sure would be your tell tale sign. Hope this helps
Oil type and total oil charge is usually in unit data tag or compressor tag , drain oil from oil tank and purge nitro to push out any you can , then use yellow jacket oil pump to push in oil . Some people suck the oil in from the container when system is under vacuum but I prefer to pump it by hand . Only use Trane OEM Oil with correct part number.
Yes you can , but when starting from a completing empty circuit if you know the total charge weight on the data sticker , I usually will just push in the entire charge and let her go
Keep it up the good work ! It really helped me a lot with some old chillers we have around here. Cheers from Brazil.
Your channels gonna blow up with chillers and stuff dude!
I have a lot of chiller calls on the job Board coming up , so I should have another video or two on them sometime this coming week. Thanks for watching
Great Job!
Thank you for the key info. As well by as sequence of the process.
Thanks for watching
Great video! really informative! so cool to see chiller repair and maintenance! keep up the awesome content
Thanks for watching!
🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘. I remember the first time i messed with a filter core....wasn't ready for the spring when i took off the cover. Well i found out real quick. Lol
Sucks when you put the cap back on then remember you forgot the spring lol
Great Job brother.
Thank you sir
Could you film the entire process of recovering and charging to Chillers?
Thnxs more Nd more
Will have another video posted tonight or tomorrow
Im working on one today in mesquite
I’m located in Ft Worth. Greetings fellow Texan
Brother you should show how to store gas and how to release gas before we removed filter drier and which way to best for gas charge in chiller pressure Guage or kg limit
Next time I run into that scope of work I will definitely make that video !
I’ve had a filer drier like that fall apart in a rtwa090.
Yes I really don’t like the design , on top of that you have to get it OEM from trane and it’s ridiculously overpriced . I think the last one I got was close to $300 dollars .
@@dfwhvac I used 2 sporlan cores and it fit perfect.
@@lookItsJayden on this particular model RTAC you have to use an OEM drier from trane , the standard size 48 drier core is too wide to fit inside the drier shell.
Trust me I tried 😂
@@dfwhvac win some loose some😂
Nice tools but I never want to see you use a insulated screw driver as prybar. Keep up the good work.
That’s fair a reply lol ! Thanks for stopping by
@@dfwhvac I know you know based on your which is why I said it. Lol 😂
how often or when should you change these?
How can i can to change oil ?
Diacore filter
Would you have to recover the charge to replace the oil heater located at the oil separator.
No it sits in a well just like on the compressor
I’m struggling with an rtwd chiller been working very well but now it’s tripping on low refrigerant temperature. Possibly low on charge what do you think when you see those alRms
Could be a few different things but immediate thought would be low on charge. Check all connections including threaded connections for sensors and transducers , king valves , etc with soap bubbles . Many leaks common from those areas on all Trane chillers. Pull all panels and inspect coils for oil stains . It’s possible could be a metering device problem but not likely - usually you’d get a low suction super heat alarm. After checking with bubbles , pull the water strainer and verify if it’s clean or dirty . Final step to actually know for sure if it’s low charge would be recover the charge and weigh the charge and compare to data tag. If for example your charge weight is 120 lbs and you only recover 70 lbs this for sure would be your tell tale sign. Hope this helps
How do you charge oil???
Oil type and total oil charge is usually in unit data tag or compressor tag , drain oil from oil tank and purge nitro to push out any you can , then use yellow jacket oil pump to push in oil . Some people suck the oil in from the container when system is under vacuum but I prefer to pump it by hand . Only use Trane OEM Oil with correct part number.
you can not add wile unit is running?
Yes you can , but when starting from a completing empty circuit if you know the total charge weight on the data sticker , I usually will just push in the entire charge and let her go