I like the 3D printed cups! Maybe you can just trim them off and fit the wood on the outside for extra sexyness and lateral vibration dampening via a rubber cement adhesive layer. If anyone's wondering, mono 3.5 splitter cables will also work on these. The ring is basically not connected to anything electrically. I just hated how microphonic and janky the stock cable is on these so i ordered a cheap but nice 3.5mm splitter from Amazon with nice individually silicone sleeved litz wiring and just nerve-wrackingly solder-modded it. And, for all its silver-plated superconductivity, this new, less conductive cable actually just about lets me run them at full power without the driver membrane hitting the magnet arrays when the bass-line hits.
I also use a silver-plated cable from aliexpress. Not expensive. Native is not bad, but thick and curls, and I almost didn't listen to him. According to the purity of the sound, thank you!, so I did everything right.
This is just a great and promising video! Thanks! Very very interesting link to the headband, please put it in the description. Since the headband is a problem, in these beautiful headphones. It is designed so that it presses on the convex part of the head. A temporary way out is to tilt it a little forward, and it becomes easier. And yes, its coating also leaves much to be desired, I immediately bought a soft protection (cover) of the headband. Think about how much such a pair of cups can cost you, if everything goes well according to the result of the amplitude frequency response? There is a real interest in this, so that you can order delivery by mail.
Yes - we are really tempted to get a small 5 axis CNC but are worried about the noise in our current workshop - Or maybe an SLS printer - we will get one of them just not sure which
I've looked at the design of the stock HE400SE and the thick cup depth is to have room for the jack female plug. The jack could point downward radially on the outside instead. If one designed the new cups with the jacks on the outside one can make the cup almost half as thick. The stock circular design is probably made round for easy manufacturing. With 3d printing in mind there is no reason to still have the cups round. Changing the design would make the cup a lot slimmer(lets say 40% slimmer), faster to print, less heavy and better looking when worn. Also the cup depth diffraction will also move up a lot in frequency to a point were its not noticable. I think the stock internal cable is long enough to reach a new jack placement.. Just an idea I had from printing some new grills to mine, so feel free to use it your design ;)
Yes - I have been doing a lot of prototyping this week and I like the idea of having the socket on an angle on the edge of the earcup as I have some fancy fischer connectors which are quite chunky I want to use. I am still going for a bit of thickness as I want to try to move the driver away from the ear a little which I am hoping will increase the soundstage like on the HD800. They are still not quite there but getting closer. We are hoping to get an SLS printer soon which would be great for printing this kind of thing
@@CustomCans Cool. If I remember correctly I think you said the HD800 had some mesh in an earlier vid and I wonder if that reduces diffraction from a thicker cup? I've just spent the winter designing waveguides for a Fountek Neo 3.0 ribbon tweeter and doing REW measurements. Every uneven point on the surface made a huge diffraction impact in the measurents. Even a 1mm irregularity from the tweeter plate to baffle made big ripples. Thats why I'm conserned about the cup diffraction... I just noticed the LCD-X jack solution and those have the plug like I tried to convey ;) I just put some even thicker angled pads on mine and bass got even deeper/flatter and the soundstage moved slightly forward. Unfortunately for me I didn't wan't more bass, so I fixed that with eq. I like a slightly brighther sounding sound^^. Also the 8000-10 000Hz area got a bit nocked down so less annoying from new pads. In addition I run a 9160Hz notch filter -3db Q7 on my chinese version. I can't hear no faults at all in the sound at this point. I think the LCD-X design is the best technically way for best sound and get the driver further away with deeper pads. That way pad swap will have even more impact & tuneability. With stock cups and thick pads my headsett looks really bulky so I can understand why the Audeze people slimmed down the cup as much as possible.
@@SaucyGravyCows96 yes sorry, it has been a crazy month here at custom cans but I am hoping to get this project finished in the next couple of weeks so keep your eyes peeled and I will get the files linked on the next video in the series
Just ordered some uber modded DT990’s from you guys for audio school starting next week and cant wait 😭glad i found this channel! 💯❤️🙏🏾
I like the 3D printed cups! Maybe you can just trim them off and fit the wood on the outside for extra sexyness and lateral vibration dampening via a rubber cement adhesive layer.
If anyone's wondering, mono 3.5 splitter cables will also work on these. The ring is basically not connected to anything electrically.
I just hated how microphonic and janky the stock cable is on these so i ordered a cheap but nice 3.5mm splitter from Amazon with nice individually silicone sleeved litz wiring and just nerve-wrackingly solder-modded it. And, for all its silver-plated superconductivity, this new, less conductive cable actually just about lets me run them at full power without the driver membrane hitting the magnet arrays when the bass-line hits.
I also use a silver-plated cable from aliexpress. Not expensive. Native is not bad, but thick and curls, and I almost didn't listen to him. According to the purity of the sound, thank you!, so I did everything right.
This is just a great and promising video! Thanks! Very very interesting link to the headband, please put it in the description. Since the headband is a problem, in these beautiful headphones. It is designed so that it presses on the convex part of the head. A temporary way out is to tilt it a little forward, and it becomes easier. And yes, its coating also leaves much to be desired, I immediately bought a soft protection (cover) of the headband. Think about how much such a pair of cups can cost you, if everything goes well according to the result of the amplitude frequency response? There is a real interest in this, so that you can order delivery by mail.
This is going to be awesome!
Hopefully ;)
looks like an excellent excuse to buy / make a compact CNC machine 😉👍
Yes - we are really tempted to get a small 5 axis CNC but are worried about the noise in our current workshop - Or maybe an SLS printer - we will get one of them just not sure which
I've looked at the design of the stock HE400SE and the thick cup depth is to have room for the jack female plug. The jack could point downward radially on the outside instead. If one designed the new cups with the jacks on the outside one can make the cup almost half as thick. The stock circular design is probably made round for easy manufacturing. With 3d printing in mind there is no reason to still have the cups round. Changing the design would make the cup a lot slimmer(lets say 40% slimmer), faster to print, less heavy and better looking when worn. Also the cup depth diffraction will also move up a lot in frequency to a point were its not noticable. I think the stock internal cable is long enough to reach a new jack placement.. Just an idea I had from printing some new grills to mine, so feel free to use it your design ;)
Yes - I have been doing a lot of prototyping this week and I like the idea of having the socket on an angle on the edge of the earcup as I have some fancy fischer connectors which are quite chunky I want to use. I am still going for a bit of thickness as I want to try to move the driver away from the ear a little which I am hoping will increase the soundstage like on the HD800. They are still not quite there but getting closer. We are hoping to get an SLS printer soon which would be great for printing this kind of thing
@@CustomCans Cool. If I remember correctly I think you said the HD800 had some mesh in an earlier vid and I wonder if that reduces diffraction from a thicker cup? I've just spent the winter designing waveguides for a Fountek Neo 3.0 ribbon tweeter and doing REW measurements. Every uneven point on the surface made a huge diffraction impact in the measurents. Even a 1mm irregularity from the tweeter plate to baffle made big ripples. Thats why I'm conserned about the cup diffraction...
I just noticed the LCD-X jack solution and those have the plug like I tried to convey ;)
I just put some even thicker angled pads on mine and bass got even deeper/flatter and the soundstage moved slightly forward. Unfortunately for me I didn't wan't more bass, so I fixed that with eq. I like a slightly brighther sounding sound^^. Also the 8000-10 000Hz area got a bit nocked down so less annoying from new pads. In addition I run a 9160Hz notch filter -3db Q7 on my chinese version. I can't hear no faults at all in the sound at this point. I think the LCD-X design is the best technically way for best sound and get the driver further away with deeper pads. That way pad swap will have even more impact & tuneability. With stock cups and thick pads my headsett looks really bulky so I can understand why the Audeze people slimmed down the cup as much as possible.
can you suggest a replacement headband for these headphones
Looks nice
Thanks
Where can I find the files for these. I would like to try it out myself I love the looks of your custom cups.
I am still tweaking and testing designs - once they are finished I will offer the files for download
@@CustomCans I am very keen for those files too! Love the look. Got some wood filament here that I reckon could look cool.
@@SaucyGravyCows96 yes sorry, it has been a crazy month here at custom cans but I am hoping to get this project finished in the next couple of weeks so keep your eyes peeled and I will get the files linked on the next video in the series
I wish i had your skills😎
Then you could set fire to and break things as well ;)