Had a really bad clog that required disassembling the extruder and your video made that process very simple for a beginner. Found it when on the step to remove the yellow gear, it would budge. After a while, success and now I can continue printing. Thanks for making and sharing this!
Highly recommend electronic swabs over the standard cotton ones. They don't shed like normal swabs so no stands of cotton mixed into the thermal compound.
Yes, something other than Q tip. The bambulabs video says to use a Q tip, and I did, but it leaves behind some cotton strings of not careful, seems like not a good thing when the thing is getting so hot.
5:30 The video is missing a part: After putting on the silicone sock, remember to install the fan back on, with the 2 screws. The screw side is the same side the cables are. The fan is also oriented with the sticker side in, otherwise the cable will be too short to connect back at the printer
Thank you so, so much. The part to loosen the screw of the cutter was essential, I had the feeling I would force and break as-is. Other videos this part is suddenly moved aside to allow the gears to be removed but none tell you *how* you can move the cutter safely away. Huge thanks and props for this!
oh wow! That’s good info to know that it’s not just needed for abrasive filaments. I’ll have to order me some more to have on hand here for maintenance. Thanks for the heads up.
interesting I only print PLA, my extruder just starting to have issues at 1021 hours of print time lol. still using the default stainless steel gear on my p1s.
Thank you for the detailed and smooth video! I have a P1S. Are these the same hotend and extruder gear I'd have to buy to upgrade the P1S to be able to print abrasive materials? Thanks in advance!
@tripasgarage at 1:38 you are somewhat forcing the cutter lever too much, if you loosen the screw on the cutter a bit more, you will not need to force it. The screw has two positions, loosen a small amount and you can get the cutter out; loosen further and the arm will be able to move further out.
Don't forget to put the screws back in the nozzle like I did 😮😢 it left a deep gash in the flexible bed. I thought for sure something was going to break when I started the Benchy to test it out. I never moved so fast to unplug the machine. Definitely a mistake but a warning the printer will not give you any warnings you forgot to screw anything in. I wish I had forgotten to plug it in then it wouldn't have started. But it's okay definitely tougher than I thought 😊
I just wish the there was an option to order it with hardened steel option. I changed hotend without realising extruder needs to be messed with as well. I just want to print and not mess with the thing 😁
I print lots of 30% wood with my stainless steel 0.4 nozzle no problem. What will a hardened steel setup really do? Just last longer that’s all. I’ll wait until it comes time to actually replace it THEN I’ll upgrade. All these recommendations saying you need a steel setup but never has anyone demonstrated exactly the why. My P1S even came with an extra 0.4 nozzle so I won’t be upgrading to steel until both those wear down. I’m not replacing a perfectly good part with the same exact slightly stronger good part just because it’s recommended for abrasive materials. Show me a schematic detailing the difference of how merely feeding different filaments does major damage then we’ll have some actual proof. At worst it’s just the filament dust slowly kicking up and getting into the gears after a ton of hours usage.
Well my original nozzle got clogged eventually so I went extra mile and upgraded the extruder as well. I had to fiddle a bit before I got it to print PETG CF reasonable well. I just don't know if it is possible just to have a machine with pre-sets to print whatever I want out-of-the box. I assume the people who designed and built the machine know about wear and tear hence it comes with recommendations
Recommendation is to not use cotton swab as it can leave fibers behind. And you missed 2 very important steps: 1. After replacing and reassembling, change the nozzle to hardened steel in the menu, in the printer configuration. 2. After updating configuration, run a full calibration test to make sure everything works fine and bed /nozzle distance is reset
While I don’t disagree with you, a recalibration and the homing is a very important step, it just doesn’t have anything to do with physically changing and touching the hotend. It wasn’t missed. I appreciate your feedback. Maybe you can remix this video
Nice but because of your wrong show to unscrew the cutter. I damaged my cover a little bit. Please un screw this god damn screw. You also stretched your cover in video. After all best video but you own me a cover
I didn't see anything in the documentation, but ran the standard calibration process anyway. It worked fine immediately afterwards, so I didn't do anything further. I also changed the nozzle type in the Bambu Studio settings, but I think the only difference there is whether it warns you before you run a spool of abrasive filament through a stainless nozzle.
People say you should replace both together when upgrading. I think it’s a bunch of hoopla. I’ll be printing abrasives with me stainless steel until it actually breaks down. Then I’ll upgrade. All this part does is feed the filaments and get dust accumulated in the gears and the nozzle endures high temperatures of materials extruded. Steel just lasts longer that’s all.
Just followed your vid to make the swap on my P1S, all steps are identical from P1P. Thanks for posting this. Not sure if the gears are supposed to be lubed or kept dry. The wiki didn't seem to mention this either way, so I left dry for now.
Thanks for the quick rundown. btw this does not work very well if you have a clog mid print, and you disassemble it on the fly, lol. Layering issues after restart. oh well it was worth a shot
Hi, for printing wood filament, is the stainless stell nozzle and extruder gears that the P1S comes with, good enough?, or both nozzle and extruder gears needs to be replaced with the hardened steel ones?
This is a fantastic video. The swap when ALMOST perfectly. In my case, the screw holding the cutter arm was so tight, the supplied wrench started to strip the screw head. I found another allen wrench in my garage that worked great. I made sure to tighten it enough, but not TOO much when i reinstalled it. Thanks for making such a great tutorial!
I appreciate the feedback and view. Yeah, this is the X1 cable chain. So far I've no issues with it. It's pretty cheap fix and once you buy the parts, you can reference this video for an easy step by step
@@brandongardner2853 You're welcome. Shoot me a message or reply back here if you're having any issues or questions. You can also contact me on instangram messaging. Pretty quick there @tripasgarage (you'll see lots of cars) that's the page lol.
@@TripasGarage I bought i assembled nozzle. i was trying to replace the old one with one that was stainless steel. bought a hardened steel afterwards and it went ok. thanks for the video.
0:33 во время обслуживания принтера нужно надевать перчатки из латекс, и при заправке филамент, чтобы не оставлять грязь и жир от рук. Все это имеет накопительный эффект. Хирург, же моет руки, перед тем как проводить операцию
@@supermanscottyou can switch the nozzle with an Allen key in 30 seconds. Bambu labs run an integrated nozzle and heat break. You can either replace just the nozzle and heat brake (as per this video) or just replace the entire hotend unit. Cost of parts is £9.99 for the fiddly replacement or £32.99 for a 30 second swap, pick your poison.
@@Fresco272 unplugged from power/wall once, turned the breaker switch off once and removed the power cord from the printer once, Good try though. Thanks for watching and commenting.
![[UA] NAVI проти G2 Esports | Blast Premier Fall Final](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QWlIm4FGESQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Had a really bad clog that required disassembling the extruder and your video made that process very simple for a beginner. Found it when on the step to remove the yellow gear, it would budge. After a while, success and now I can continue printing. Thanks for making and sharing this!
What was the part you had on your PTFE tube? Is that something I can print and put in place?
Hi there, it’s only needed if you don’t use a riser. I typed ptfe tube guide p1p. It is something you can print.
Hello. Where do I get the white piece, where do I know it is at the entrance of the extruder? Thank you
The heating element? It's from Bambu, it's what heats the hotend.
@@TripasGarage I was asking about the moving piece that connects the hose where the filament enters.
@@CasaTridimensional Oh! I downloaded an STL off printables. www.printables.com/model/350714-bambu-lab-ptfe-guide
@@TripasGarage thanks amigo
Perfect walkthrough, went flawless, right now running the new calibration feature. Thanks a lot !
Your video just saved me! I had a huge clog and this is a new machine so I’m inexperienced. Your video was so easy to follow! Thank you!!
Same haha
Good luck putting those wires back ! 😢
Highly recommend electronic swabs over the standard cotton ones. They don't shed like normal swabs so no stands of cotton mixed into the thermal compound.
Medical grade swabs are cheaper and plentiful.
Yes, something other than Q tip. The bambulabs video says to use a Q tip, and I did, but it leaves behind some cotton strings of not careful, seems like not a good thing when the thing is getting so hot.
5:30 The video is missing a part: After putting on the silicone sock, remember to install the fan back on, with the 2 screws. The screw side is the same side the cables are.
The fan is also oriented with the sticker side in, otherwise the cable will be too short to connect back at the printer
@@rubberonasphalt you are correct. Thank you
Thank you so, so much. The part to loosen the screw of the cutter was essential, I had the feeling I would force and break as-is. Other videos this part is suddenly moved aside to allow the gears to be removed but none tell you *how* you can move the cutter safely away. Huge thanks and props for this!
THANK YOU!
All the other videos didn't go as in-depth and I had a little piece stuck inside.
Ironing, NEVER AGAIN.
Agree. Plus the other videos chat a lot, just get to the point man!
I did this on my P1S this evening. It really is this simple.
What parts did you order?
@@AnomieDomine Complete Hotend Assembly 0,4mm Hardened Steel and Hardened Steel Extruder Gear Assembly
1100 hours according to my unit.. Only have printed PLA.. I just had to replace these extruder gears. Sounded like it was popping while printing.
oh wow! That’s good info to know that it’s not just needed for abrasive filaments. I’ll have to order me some more to have on hand here for maintenance. Thanks for the heads up.
interesting I only print PLA, my extruder just starting to have issues at 1021 hours of print time lol. still using the default stainless steel gear on my p1s.
Thank you for the detailed and smooth video!
I have a P1S. Are these the same hotend and extruder gear I'd have to buy to upgrade the P1S to be able to print abrasive materials?
Thanks in advance!
They are
Great tutorial at the right speed.
@tripasgarage at 1:38 you are somewhat forcing the cutter lever too much, if you loosen the screw on the cutter a bit more, you will not need to force it. The screw has two positions, loosen a small amount and you can get the cutter out; loosen further and the arm will be able to move further out.
Excellent video I've watched a few tear downs and yours is by far the most detialed and best filmed. Great work
You’re very welcome and I appreciate it.
Don't forget to put the screws back in the nozzle like I did 😮😢 it left a deep gash in the flexible bed. I thought for sure something was going to break when I started the Benchy to test it out. I never moved so fast to unplug the machine. Definitely a mistake but a warning the printer will not give you any warnings you forgot to screw anything in. I wish I had forgotten to plug it in then it wouldn't have started. But it's okay definitely tougher than I thought 😊
I just wish the there was an option to order it with hardened steel option. I changed hotend without realising extruder needs to be messed with as well. I just want to print and not mess with the thing 😁
I print lots of 30% wood with my stainless steel 0.4 nozzle no problem. What will a hardened steel setup really do? Just last longer that’s all. I’ll wait until it comes time to actually replace it THEN I’ll upgrade. All these recommendations saying you need a steel setup but never has anyone demonstrated exactly the why. My P1S even came with an extra 0.4 nozzle so I won’t be upgrading to steel until both those wear down. I’m not replacing a perfectly good part with the same exact slightly stronger good part just because it’s recommended for abrasive materials. Show me a schematic detailing the difference of how merely feeding different filaments does major damage then we’ll have some actual proof. At worst it’s just the filament dust slowly kicking up and getting into the gears after a ton of hours usage.
Well my original nozzle got clogged eventually so I went extra mile and upgraded the extruder as well. I had to fiddle a bit before I got it to print PETG CF reasonable well. I just don't know if it is possible just to have a machine with pre-sets to print whatever I want out-of-the box. I assume the people who designed and built the machine know about wear and tear hence it comes with recommendations
Perfect tutorial. Thank you so much!
Really good video, thank you.
Recommendation is to not use cotton swab as it can leave fibers behind. And you missed 2 very important steps:
1. After replacing and reassembling, change the nozzle to hardened steel in the menu, in the printer configuration.
2. After updating configuration, run a full calibration test to make sure everything works fine and bed /nozzle distance is reset
While I don’t disagree with you, a recalibration and the homing is a very important step, it just doesn’t have anything to do with physically changing and touching the hotend. It wasn’t missed. I appreciate your feedback. Maybe you can remix this video
Great video, very clear, great instructions! Thank you!
great tutorial - done my P1S today using your instructions. Bring on the carbon fibre!
Exactly what I needed, cheers.
Very helpful! Thanx. Some Filament remains at the gear, so i need this instruction to reassemble the extruder! Success!
You’re the freaking man! Thank you! Even though I wish I would have just ordered the full hot end lol
Wow! Everything perfectly staged, a truly amazing video! Thank you very much for it!
Appreciate it
Nice but because of your wrong show to unscrew the cutter. I damaged my cover a little bit. Please un screw this god damn screw. You also stretched your cover in video. After all best video but you own me a cover
K
The white tube on my p1s is stuck on there, pushing on the black collar doesn't seem to release it.
Before you disconnect the power, have the unit unload your filament
Like others have said, this is a fantastic video, instructions are clear and to the point. Thanks for making this available.
What are the calibration and tuning you have to do after installing these? Can you make a video about it.
I didn't see anything in the documentation, but ran the standard calibration process anyway. It worked fine immediately afterwards, so I didn't do anything further.
I also changed the nozzle type in the Bambu Studio settings, but I think the only difference there is whether it warns you before you run a spool of abrasive filament through a stainless nozzle.
best toturial for this. needed to unclog my 3d printer and all the other videos skipped the disable part.
I got you! 👍🏼
I'm assuming this makes the printer able to cope with more abrasive filaments like carbon fibre?
That is correct :)
Informative and interesting! 👍
Thanks leaky! Appreciate it.
This upgrade allows to print harder abrasive materials?
Correct
Are you using the original bambu lab drag chain?
That is correct. Using the chain from Bambu.
Absolute a great video, just followed the steps and it was super easy to do. Thanks for such a great instruction video.
Good one mate, this was a big help in upgrading my P1S finally abrasive material can be printed without unwanted wear. Thank you very much
Did you replace the entire hotend here? What about just replacing the nozzle only? Or is the entire hotend required to be upgraded?
People say you should replace both together when upgrading. I think it’s a bunch of hoopla. I’ll be printing abrasives with me stainless steel until it actually breaks down. Then I’ll upgrade. All this part does is feed the filaments and get dust accumulated in the gears and the nozzle endures high temperatures of materials extruded. Steel just lasts longer that’s all.
@@TheFutureLooksGrimm yeah makes sense. No need to replace it until you need to replace it.
Just followed your vid to make the swap on my P1S, all steps are identical from P1P. Thanks for posting this. Not sure if the gears are supposed to be lubed or kept dry. The wiki didn't seem to mention this either way, so I left dry for now.
Thank you for making this video.. you made upgrading to hardened steel gears a breeze.
Its the best Video for Yutube , for extruder clog vice 1 pi 1 . THANKS , ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Thanks for the quick rundown. btw this does not work very well if you have a clog mid print, and you disassemble it on the fly, lol. Layering issues after restart. oh well it was worth a shot
Does the x1. Arvin come with the hardened version?
Yes
This was EXCELLENT! install went super smooth following these directions.
Thank you so much for this. I could not for the life of me figure out how to disassemble the extruder without breaking it. This was a life saver.
this video was very helpful, i enjoyed assembling the part with the help of this video. Thanks for showing us how to fix it
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Just added a Hardened Steel Extruder and Hotend to print CF and Glow-In-The-Dark filaments.
Exceptional video! Thank you heaps for making this.
Hi, for printing wood filament, is the stainless stell nozzle and extruder gears that the P1S comes with, good enough?, or both nozzle and extruder gears needs to be replaced with the hardened steel ones?
perfect walkthrough and thank you for the video!!
Why is there a sticker over the hot end?? 1:09
You’re totally right. Never thought anything of it. Im guessing they’re thinking it’s ok since it’s on the heatsink.
Thank you!!! Im about to do an extruder replacement and an upgrade install for the hardened gears. This is VERY helpful!
This is a fantastic video. The swap when ALMOST perfectly. In my case, the screw holding the cutter arm was so tight, the supplied wrench started to strip the screw head. I found another allen wrench in my garage that worked great. I made sure to tighten it enough, but not TOO much when i reinstalled it. Thanks for making such a great tutorial!
Now it says “cutter malfunctioning” 😔
Very helpful video though strange that it’s tagged with “prusa”, “resinprinting”, and “ASA”.
🥰🥰
Great video. Thank you
You’re welcome. Thank you for the feedback
Epic video. I used it to fix a super jam I had with mine.
Ty for the great vid ! That the x1 chain assembly on the p1p ? want to up grade mine like that .
I appreciate the feedback and view. Yeah, this is the X1 cable chain. So far I've no issues with it. It's pretty cheap fix and once you buy the parts, you can reference this video for an easy step by step
@@TripasGarage Thank you so much will be making this upgrade soon .
@@brandongardner2853 You're welcome. Shoot me a message or reply back here if you're having any issues or questions. You can also contact me on instangram messaging. Pretty quick there @tripasgarage (you'll see lots of cars) that's the page lol.
Great and detailed instructions, thanks!!
You're very welcome.
Does this allow the hotend to get to 300 deg C
It sure does just like the non hardened steel one. This one does allow you to use abrasive type filaments.
Thanks for putting that together.
You're very welcome
Thanks! Everything went smoothly
Perfect!!
Thank you for this video.
Perfect! Thank you so much!
Just broke my thermister 😢
Time to buy a new one
@@TripasGarage I bought i assembled nozzle. i was trying to replace the old one with one that was stainless steel. bought a hardened steel afterwards and it went ok. thanks for the video.
0:33 во время обслуживания принтера нужно надевать перчатки из латекс, и при заправке филамент, чтобы не оставлять грязь и жир от рук. Все это имеет накопительный эффект.
Хирург, же моет руки, перед тем как проводить операцию
A surgeon is also working with sterile environments.
I was looking everywhere for a tutorial and finally stumbled upon this one. Thank you!
You’re very welcome. I’m glad it came in handy
You're a legend, thank you!
thank you and greetings from germany !!!
Thanks for the nice explanation. Mission successful 😃👍
You're very welcome. I'm glad it came in handy.
can not take the wheel out because a piece of filament stuck , any idea ? : )
Use a hotend screw as a drift on the back of the gear assembly to knock it out from the housing.
Just a few gentle taps should knock it free.
Thanks!
@@silvertibby9283 Thank you very much.
Nice video tutorial.
Thank you so much for this 🤘🤘 I'm very happy that I bought the fully assembled Nozzle upgrade...!
It is almost impossible to switch the thermistor without damage to the wire coating (at least for me)
Thanks for the info
Seems like a lot.
Of?
@TripasGarage work for an average person. My old printer I could just switch the nozzle with a wrench.
@@supermanscottyou can switch the nozzle with an Allen key in 30 seconds.
Bambu labs run an integrated nozzle and heat break.
You can either replace just the nozzle and heat brake (as per this video) or just replace the entire hotend unit.
Cost of parts is £9.99 for the fiddly replacement or £32.99 for a 30 second swap, pick your poison.
@@lmaoroflcopter thanks , I just replaced the whole hot end easier for me.
Does this need to done for every nozzle change?
Depends on what you buy.
You can buy the complete hot end assembly, then a nozzle change is two screws and a unplug/plug operation. Takes less than 30 seconds
Great video.
Are you sure that unplugging the power 3 times is enough? I would suggest to also flip the breakers. Blowing up power plant is also recommended.
@@Fresco272 unplugged from power/wall once, turned the breaker switch off once and removed the power cord from the printer once, Good try though. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Great video! Thanks!
Who would have thought bambulab is scamming people with aluminum gears?
Tell me yyou didn't get a GED without telling me😂😂😂😂yall dumb
The gears that mater aren't plastic.@@Oucontryboy
Uh, no one. The gears that ship with the P1 are stainless steel.
They are stainless steel. He replaced them with hardened steel
Literally no one, get your facts right before putting an inaccurate comment.
Isnt the Hot-End the exact same ? I mean its steeel and 0,4 mm ??
It’s not the same. One is hardened steel and the other is stainless