Willys Truck Take Two: Will it Ever Run Again & Viewer Mail
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- Опубліковано 26 бер 2018
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one solid smack on the end of the puller shaft
When you get the puller tight, the most effective thing you can do is take the wrench off and give the end of the forcing screw a couple whacks with the sledge. Repeat the tightening and smacking the end of the forcing screw until it comes off. I would not want to be hitting that drum directly with a hammer. This has never failed me when using any kind of forcing screw tools on stuff that is really stuck. Smacking the part directly is nowhere near as effective and runs a much higher risk of breaking things you don't want broke. Glad you got it off.
Not to smart if he dont
Yep👍 It'll run again😁.
Looking forward to see the plants moving forward🌱🌱
Great progress on the Willies and loved seeing the beginnings of your garden!
I love old Willy's trucks. I can't wait to see this one on the road again.
man i love the narrative...lol..i went thru the exact same thing with my wagon i also order the puller after even put a chain on the damm drum and pulled it with my pick up..lol...so much fun to watch yr video..""again""
Live in a smalll town, the auto stores stock all sorts of old "new stock" parts. Ebay is another source of old "new" parts that I rebuilt my M131A1 military jeep with. Have fun!
I had to heat the drum on my Studebaker and use a long breaker bar on the puller to get it to pop free, glad you stuck with it.
Just noticed the old 200 Honda in the background. Had quite a few of em! Great wheelers.
@13:54 "Look Ma, Someone done sent us a WINDCHIME!!" 😂🤠🤣
(&hangs it on his porch with other random metal pieces...)
11:09 "Probably gonna need a rebuild on the brakes!" No way, hahaha.
That's an impressive grade of Chinesium on that puller.
My dad linked me the video. Living in VT, we have much experience with rust.
Hope the project is going well!
Glad to see someone keeping history alive thank you
those cars were meant to race time, like almost all vehicles back then were. a few new mods and it'll be nice. maybe xenon lights for the hadlights
'Dude I know what you're thinking...leave it there over night'. You read my thoughts all right. If you continue, I recommend a hockey jock cup at least.
HEAT FROM A TORCH IS A GOOD MOTIVATOR FOR STUCK PARTS!👍
Great video bud. Loved seein the assortment of seeds you guys started. Nice work on the hubs and great mail call!
Yup on the seeds. This year I try zucchini.
I do like that truck. It's got so much character.
ty so much for the great work video and ty u so mu for showing my gifts to u on line......i find hundreds of whole sand dollars every year..theres a bed of them that live at the cove,.....i make xmas ornaments out of them ill send u one at xmas time and the tuttle and its baby is for you and jr i thought it was fitting.....you have made an old woman so happy thank you have a blessed day and love to your r family hope exp mom is getting better cheers!
it all was great thank you very much
make sure emerg/brake is released, use a piece of long heavy pipe to tighten puller, and heat drum w/ torch...
Boy I miss my 61 Willy’s truck ,,,, should have never sold it. I had 68 thunderbird seats in it and a 327 Chevy block and 38 in tires under it . Love the front grills man,,, happy for ya bro
I've been through that brake drum situation before with a 56 F100. I was watching the video saying "just hit it". I had to step back and really whack them hard with the sledge. Around the perimeter like you were doing, but much harder. Until the rust and brake shoe pieces started to crumble out the bottom. Then it came apart. Nice truck. Would love to find one in that condition.
Just now seeing this. Love the running commentary ....
Works excellent!
Nasty under them rotors! :P
You have a great family! They are adorable! :D
You can test your generator by “motoring it” in your other video, using a battery. The clips you picked out of the brakes are the spring clips that hold the brake shoes onto the backing plate. You can also adjust the shoes in so they don’t catch the drum.
There are two ways to successfully achieve a goal....Cunning or violence and that drum removal definitely comes under the violence category.
Getting there, canny wait to see it running.
Great video- Great Willys- And even greater sense of humor. Blowtorch!
I think you have the 6-230 hurricane engine, that trucks so cool!! I would have a long term project for sure .. but well worth it in the end! What a great find!
Glad ya liked the cigar boxes :) Happy to see they made it in 1 piece.
oh yeah they were awesome
If you need help go to the AACA website and ask any questions that you may have in the General Discussion category. I guarantee there will be guys there that can help you get this Jeep running and driving. Good luck....
Nice to get to know the family a bit......great video as always.....
1.You should always leave the hub nut on in case of it- the drum flying off!
If it's any conslilation the Austin allegro (all agro - brit speak for trouble..) had a front hub nut that was factory torqued to 270 lbs....
glad you like the hasp and that it will finally be put to use.
it's going to be hung this weekend, thank you
I have been trying to think of the actor who you sound a bit like...it was lingering at the edge of my consciousness but the more I listened to your humor, it struck me...the late Bill Paxton... a fine actor. Totally random, I know - but there it is. You make entertaining commentary. I enjoyed the video!
Danke schoen
That castle nut and threds looked dam neer new!!
hit the end of the puller it is a tapered axle shaft on all jeeps and American motors worked on many
That is the exact same tool that I used to get my hubs off!!! It’s the only tool that would work for mine!!!
Nice work. Keep it rolling.
Anyone watching this make sure you leave the nut on but loose enough for the drum to move. I seen one of them come off and break a guys leg. Heat would have been your friend,even just a small torch. I was in fear for you the whole time.
Nice work. Sometimes those hubs are so tight I have to suit up because im sure the puller is going to explode then the hub pops off and all is well. Dont stand in front of it sometimes they go flying so its good to leave the nut on loose
+1. I left the nut on loose and whaled on the puller and gave me a heart attack when it popped.
How fun to watch a novice or someone acting as novice. Everyone wants to be right there with you. Like you could use a little help. But you doing good. You're going to learn or teach alot!.
Watched u a while aka more than most bud like ur life was me 2year ago only 25 years sorry had lonely beers
Proto makes Tough tools. I have some that are over 50 years and they keep going. I buy more after time and now again.
Because those shoes wear a groove in the drum. Removing them is some times breaks stuff. However, you MUST back the adjuster all the way off. Once your sure nothing holding it but the bond between the shoes and the drum. Time to beat the whey out of it. Bear in mind. Not all will come apart without damage. 👍
It's coming along,wish we were closer. My hubby has all the tools and would love to have a project buddy....
Dawn Lindgron j
I'm an old school mechanic, a little advice for your engine if it is still locked up get yourself some Marvel Mystery Oil and fill each cylinder and oil pan, you can also fill the rest of the running gear with it. It will help break up the rest and get things moving again
The best penetrating oil I have used in a mixture of equal parts of acetone and ATF. Your probably going to need it!
dude, your comments crack me up!!! They make the video for me.....
Swat the end of the puller screw a couple of good licks with your hammer! I used to be heavily into Studebakers in the sixties, and they used the same setup. What you're doing when you hit the end of the black screw, it taking up the slack in the threads. I still have the old forged steel puller. I think it cost me less that 10 bucks in 1960...
Heat the outside of the shell - it expands. Rods shrink and shells /nuts expand. Use nut release stuff and or heat it. Holes in the back to cool with ?
Take out all of the plugs and fill each plug hole with marvel mystery oil. This will help break the engine free. You might have to rebuild the transmission because it is frozen also. The rear end take it off as one unit unbolt it from the springs and tear it down and rebuild it.
Seeing the broken down 3wheeler in the back...yea I doubt it’ll ever run again hahahha
i see the old 3 wheeler in the background nice!!
heat on the thing, when it comes it will just come all at once. don't loose those little pieces inside the drum, they hold the brakes in place and adjust them
go get a jeep cherokee two wheel drive rear axle, they look just like that with bigger brakes. you'll have to cut off the mounting points and weld on some 3in spring saddles not difficult. I just did it!
the lug studs and the center bearing are the same part. The puller needed to grab the outer edge of the drum. Didn't need the puller.
You will need a couple cans of Aerokroil for that project. It's like magic in a can.
tdid you look in the inspection hole on back of drum ...maybe loosen shoes drum usally fall of if shoes loosed by spine gear on shoes
With both drums off, and assuming an "open" style rear differential (as opposed to a "posi" or locking diff), if you turn one drum, the motion will follow the path of least resistance, which is to turn the other drum in the opposite direction. Hold one drum from turning while you turn the other, and the driveshaft should then turn, or, turn the driveshaft and either or both the drums will turn, but in opposite directions if they both turn. Nice old truck!
Glad to see you got them off. I was wondering on the first drum if puller was going to explode.
A lot of WD-40 or PB Blaster would help in getting that set of drums off all the way around. You might have to take the backing plates off to get the wheel assembly off. You should have applied the lubricant for several days before attempting this, as the rust took many years to build up.
appreciate that video i recently purchased an old 53 model jeep been lookin for a puller for that same reason very helpfull
i forgot to put the link,
dont matter have seen them on e bay just glad to see them really work
That piece you didn't know the function of is one of the clips that holds the shoes to the back plate. They probably broke pulling off the drums. I recommend heating up the drums some for the front ones. They'll come off easier.
Progress is good 😎 a lil closer to running 👍
a bot of heat on the drum will help loosen the rust while you use your puller.. You trust those old wheel studs more than I would. Patience patience.
You're a better man than I. I wouldn't even touch this project without an air compressor, air tools, a acetylene torch, and the rest of my tool collection.
Taking a picture was a smart idea.
Them pullers when you get presser on them you are supposed to hit the centre with a hammer that shockes it of had the same pullers in the 1960 ts
Bits of metal are the brake shoe retainer
Those things used those sucky cam type brake adjusters, two per wheel. All they did was hold the shoe and the wheel cylinder farther out
Drum is rusted to the axle hub. Get a torch and use it on that area. It'll pop free in about 5 minutes.
good luck with this project
Did you back off the adjusters? Best to always put some heat to it as well. You would be amazed what a small plumbing torch can do in a pinch!
Those drums! I believe everything they say about cobwebs now! :-)
Hi from over the Pond. You just asked what one of the parts was that fell out when you removed the Hub. it is a Break retaining spring ,it holds the break shoe in place , there should have been a straight pin as well that the spring sits around this also is a part that holds the break shoe to the back plate, there are one of each for each shoe , i hope that is helpful
thanks, I'm going to write that down, seriously, thanks
I love old cars but it bothers me to see beautiful vehicles going to waste like this but when they have a second chance at life it is so nice.
the lug nuts you are bolted to actually go to the axel, the drum just sits on the lug bolts and is frozen on there. Sometimes there are threaded holes on the drum you can screw into and then use a puller like you have, if you want to pull the whole axel and drum you have to release the axel from the differential 1st
guess I should have watched the whole video
PB Blaster is a good friend to have!
Very tapping the hub around towards the vechicle
Did you try the turn key on the back side of the wheel hub? This turn key loosens the brake shoe from the hub so you can slide the hub off the break shoe.
Heat is your friend when you're wrenching on old rusty buckets.
The easy way to pull those hubs is with a healthy impact wrench. We very seldom need heat.
Take center nut out put the tire back on with lug nuts then get a 16 pound sledge and hit it on the back of tire and it will fly off! Have done it many times .
Was the break adjust frozen? That's where the penetration spray would do some good. Access the adjustment wheel from the back with a brake tool and turn until the drum turns freely.
This is an awesome find
Again Thank you for that!
All you need is some butter ,because it's toast .Alabama is a beautiful state ,though .Nice family
Read up on differentials, they do not act like a solid axel. Only 1 wheel is driven at a time, if it slips then the other wheel gets power.
Thanks for posting. Little at at a time, youre getting there. All that work---time for a cold bottle of beer !
"prolly gonna need a re-build on those brakes."....true dat.
a common proto 276 lol good one you got good commentary brother
Had you tightened the center bolt, removed the hammer wrench than took the beater and hit the end of the center bolt it would dislodge the drum. Repeat as necessary until it is removed.
When pulling the drum, reverse the castle nut and turn it in flush with the end of the spindle. This will catch the drum when it comes loose.
thanks, thanks for watching!! Take a sec and subscribe and hang around with us
I love to see you guys opening things! Thank you for sharing!
I'd strip the front and rear axles out and install newer ones. I would also look at new engine, trans and steering gear.
Alright. Progress. Yes!!
Hey I'm 10 years old me and my dad build hot rods we build a 1973 Ford Mustang GT and we worked on a 1987 C10 and a 1990 S10 Blazer when the wheel is I think it's pretty cool because well you know you don't see him everyday
Channel Lock 447G is the best cotter pin puller. Long nose side cutter
glad that drum came off i had to literally bust them off a 1950 desoto with a sledge hammer one time and find some used good ones --you got that engine soaking ? hope that loosens up for you
On the backside below the axle should be a port to get inside to be able to collapse the break shoes to be able to get the drum off.
well past that now, but. they had sat in the mud 30 years, no port would collapse anything on this truck
In the future, instead using brute force to pry the drums off. Next time cut them off with a torch. In this case you may not have damaged the drums. Depending if they still have enough meat on them to have them turned? Good luch