An old mechanic's trick for timing the engine before starting: Turn the engine over until you are on the compression stroke for number one. Line up your timing marks. Remove number one spark plug wire from the distributor. Turn on the ignition. Hold the number one spark plug wire a little bit above its hole in the cap. Rotate the distributor until you see a spark jump from the cap to the number one wire. That's it, lock it down. You'll be within a degree or two. I got that procedure from a 1948 Buick owner's manual and I've used it with every point ignition engine I've ever disassembled and it has never let me down. However I do not believe it will work on electronic ignition, only point systems. It did not work when I tried to do it on a car with MSD ignition.
Condenser - A condenser in the distributor or at the coil is not for radio noise suppression. It is there to damp sparking across the ignition points, which will destroy them quite quickly. That was why point sets came with new condensers (aka "capacitors"). They took quite a beating. People who have never worked with non-electronic ignitions won't have encountered this. Suppression caps for radio were on the generator or regulator. Spark noise was suppressed with resistor plugs or wires. IMPORTANT - These condensers could fail open or shorted. Some would even become thermal - OK or open when cold/shorted when hot. A short will kill or reduce voltage. There may also be a resistor wire to provide higher voltage to the coil when cranking/lower voltage when running. VERY failure-pron and sometimes replaced with a regular resistor. Valve issue - engines that sit idle for many years often (VERY often) end up with a stuck valve, usually where the valve stopped the last time it ran.. On a flathead ("L- Head") (like my 39 Plymouth) or even an "F-Head" (Jeep engines) where the exhaust valves are in the block, engine you can sometimes pour penetrating oil into the stuck (open) valve and maybe free it. An OHV like this is a bit harder to deal with. Off comes the head in most cases. You could also have a broken valve or rocker arm. Pull the head. Dribble oil into the valve stem of a stuck one. There is an added trick to free it but it is risky to the valve to try so I won't add it here. I think you also need to rebuild the carb. Other cylinders should be firing and the engine kicking if not actually running. This design has an accelerator pump like an old-time hand water pump (even made of leather most times) and it will be shot now. Pouring gas through the throat will not diagnose that.
If you pull the rocker arm assembly off, soak the stuck valve(s) in penetrating oil, and smack them with a dead blow they usually come free. Needs to be a dead blow or rubber hammer so you don't mushroom the end of the valve.
The condenser on the coil is just a standard radio noise suppression condenser installed on most older Chevy engines. Has nothing to do with the points. Can be disconnected. It's hooked to the positive side of the coil.
Yeah, sorry if I misled with that sentence. They were pretty ineffective since they were on the LV side and car radios of that era had their own suppression systems built-in (and were a %&$#@ to service). Mica, while stable, was a nightmare if the connections rusted/corroded. Usually had to build a new network, especially with the old tube sets.
that cond.is part of a resoance circuit must be correct mf value or will burn points thats why people have to change points too often wrong value cond.
I found another source for jeep parts when my GPS took me a different route than normal to the unclaimed baggage store in Scottsbouro. There is a Postal Jeep parts store in Boaz . They were not open when I stopped by but I looked up their website and they have a lot of different parts including engines and transmissions . My old Willys is a wasp magnet also . I really need to get back to work on it but between the weather and every day life problems it's hard to schedule a time when I can work on it. In the meantime I will have to live vicariously through your adventures with your Willys.
Just pull the valve cover off and smack the valves around with a rubber mallet after you drench them in oil. If you have zeeeeeero compression at all, it's either two snapped rods, or your valves are hanging open.
On the sticking valve cylinder... Pull the Spark plug and use a screw driver to push valve closed. Soak it with WD and tap open with rubber hammer closed with Screw driver till it frees up... IT WILL RUN...
A lot of times when engines haven’t been started in a long time, they develop low compression due to the rings not seating. You should try to dump a little oil down each spark plug hole and see if the compression value increases. I’m willing to bet that it will! After the engine does start for the first time, the compression will likely come back up. You could also try to pull start it. This makes the engine spin faster that a starter motor alone. I’ve seen this multiple times with cars that people want me to restore and the engine has no compression. I’m usually able to get the compression back up when I dump some oil down the spark plug holes, put them back in, and crank it. I like to use marvel mystery oil myself.
Take valve cover off you can tell which valves are sticking you might be able to free them. If you get junkyard motor , 194, 230 and 250 should be a bolt in replacement
It's probably not a worn out engine as much as it is you probably have some stuck valves. Take the valve cover off and investigate. Also, about a tablespoon of ATF in the cylinders will help free up stuck rings.
Yep ... time to pull the valve cover off and see if the valve train is still intact. Then see if you can loosen any stuck valves with a dead blow hammer and some lubricant. That era of engine had nylon coated cam gear teeth and it was real common for it to shed teeth and to jump time somewhere in the 45-65,000 mile range. That can also show up as no compression if the valves are open during the upstroke.
By the time this wagon runs their kids will have children of their own....😉If you all like to know when this wagon will run ,here it is :it is video # 221 in 2029 late fall 😆. No matter what...I stick with them...they are a great family !
You can use an old gear lube bottle to prime and fill the carb with fuel, filled through the vent. Check ignition timing. Hydraulic valves drain after sitting.
A gravity fed lawn mower gas tank w/ a shut off will help you get it started. Most old fuel pumps do not work well, but with gas to the pump it will help.
That ol engine will start no problem probably just a stuck valve once it starts running it will get better the more u run it,I'm a diesel mechanic and I've worked on just about everything in my life
Suggestion (yeah, I know it is too late, but you will probably do another and another...)Jump start devices, including big boy battery chargers, are designed to work on conjunction with a battery. And, speaking of batteries, always get the biggest one that will fit the battery box, usually a Group 27. (Not the same as buying the most expensive) The wire from the distributor which goes to the points and condenser is to be connected to the negative post on the coil. Nothing else connects here, unless it is a pickup wire for a tach. The positive side connects to ignition, usually through a ballast resistor on 12 volt vehicles. Another wire goes to the starter solenoid "I" terminal. This is to give a hotter spark when cranking. Running without the ballast resistor for very long will burn the points, and might damage the coil.
Hey brother, The rings are stuck in the piston groves, and you have stuck valves. This engine will start. Running it will free everything up. If the flames scare you rig up an exhaust. I've done this many times. Good luck.
I agree with AngryRed Banjo,that there is at least 1 exhaust valve open.(the flames out the header)Please..Use a hose off the gas bottle,or a tiny funnel, and fill your float bowl through the vent hole.It will run a few seconds if it starts.I see people pour gas in the carb and it flames up or pours right into a cylinder(case proved).Best wishes to you and yours.
That last symbol on the booster is obviously a microphone for the karaoke function. Stuck valves for sure. If you pull the valve cover, you can give the rocker arms a little rap to free them up. Just use the karaoke function of the booster for that, or a rubber mallet.
Wasps. 1/4 - 1/3 part dish soap ( I use Dawn) and water in spray bottle. Spray them and they drop like nobody's business. Spray the nest and no new ones will build there again for a long time. Great videos, by the way.
You have either 2 valves hanging open in two cylinders OR you have two cylinders with broken rings, either way, that engine needs major attention, suggest pulling the head and have a look see before you crank it over anymore and do more damage !!
the air pump gets quiter when the battery starts to lose power you should use it while the car is running if you have a bad battery and you need to pump a few tires and they take long i have one like it its very handy and we never needed to go anywhere for some air unless there is a puncture in the tire though the one i have has a full kit to fix punctures we have 3 cars and 3 bikes at home
If you listen to it carefully while cranking you can hear it "missing" That's missing compression.( Uneven sound while cranking.) You say two adjacent cylinders are not firing. In most cases I would say a blown head gasket between the two cylinders. Since it has been sitting for a decade or so I would make sure all the valves are going up and down first. Then a compression test would be in order. Compression test is going to give weird readings on an engine that hasn't been running so that test my not be the best . Sticking valves, stuck rings, rusty valve seats, and other things will give faulty readings. If it were mine I'd pull all the rockers off, apply penetrating oil to the valve, and tap all the valves quite a few times with a hammer to loosen them up and perhaps that will help them seat a bit too. Adjusting valves is easy. They are hydraulic.
I had in 2 cylinders and one of my valves were sticking I put Marvel's Mystery Oil in the spark plug holes let it sit for 2 days and those two problems cylinders compression tripled it's worth a try sometimes you have oxidation on Rings or sticking valves
Tyre is the English spelling for tire. The term tyre came from the name for the metal ring which went around the outside of a wagon wheel rim and tyed it all together. It held the rim to the spokes.
get some new gas! check the carb, does the gas show when you pump it with the # 12 on the floor? Is their any sparl on the front cylinder, take the plug wire off the front one, hook it to a good plug and turn it over!
Symptoms of Bad or Failing Points & Condenser. If your vehicle runs rough, the engine will not fire, or the vehicle will not start at all, the points and condenser system may be failing. ... The condenser is attached to the system by breaker points.
Your cylinders are dry, so put a little light oil down inside each one and let sit awhile. There is no oil in the top end of the valves so lube those as well. Revisit it in a few days and she'll be alright.
it is firing the plugs l;ate..if it was out the carb with flames its early on the timing..and i agree with the fellow that said take valve cover off take rubber hammer and bap the rockers to free valves :)
The valves arent closing all the way is why you have no compression.keep cranking on it get it to fire a few times the valves will loosen up probaly.gey the bearded one to drag ypu around some now that you have fuel up.
I came back to the south after living in Denver for years. My question is wth do people slow to crawl to get a look at a accident. Proceed with caution, but don't freaking stop or crawl. You may see something you don't want to. Right?
The flames could be because it might be a positive ground and the engine could be spinning backwards... which means that the engine is firing on the exhaust stroke instead of compression... I would double check to see if it is a positive ground.... if it is stuck valves if you take off the valve cover and watch the valves as you crank it over it will tell you either way... if you have stuck valves pour some marvels mystery oil or transmission fluid on the valve stems and let sit for a day or so, then tap the valve stems with a wooden mallet to break them free...
Starter would not function in reverse because the Bendix only works in one direction, it would have a sound similar to a starter not engaging if the starter turned backwards. Not turning backwards.
Exploring Alabama no problem..... ok the flames and lack of compression is either stuck valves or the timing is so far out that it’s firing on the exhaust stroke... the plug wires may be out by one hole in the distributor cap... but I would first take the valve cover off and as it cranks over watch what the valves are doing... if they are working then I would start but putting cylinder #1 on top dead center on its compression stroke... then check to see where the rotor is pointing in reference to the distributor cap terminals...
i live on the east coast of canada . i had a 61 chevy. 250 cid . i couldnt kill it .now i been wondering how i would go about sending something by snail mail.
A spark creates a whole lot of electric noise, i.e. a fairly random high-frequency signal. A capacitor blocks DC (like from a car battery) but is pretty much a short-circuit to high frequencies, killing the unwanted noise from the spark if connected to ground.
throw a quart of tranny fluid in the crank case, won't hurt it, frees up internals that have been dormant for extended periods. Spin the engine over so the oil is getting to the top. Pull valve cover, spin it over again, watching the valve train for the springs that aren't returning. As mentioned, grab a soft face hammer, or regular hammer with a block of wood and start banging on the stuck ones until they start to return by themselves after you bang down on them. Once they are free, should fire right up. I'm sure you have it going by now. Good luck
Damn right get them plugs in,sponsered by freedee.Whatever you do don't. 1atdc valves close.It will run,or it would be the first, intact.for me,meaning I've seen them blow.
looks like a bad head gasket or a stuck valve (s) judging by the way the smoke is sucking and blowing in and out of the exhaust. this would cause the compression and fire problem. remove valve cover and check all rockers for clearance.
Flames out the exhaust, exhaust valves are not seating properly. Check your valve rockers are adjusted properly, otherwise, Looks like you need a valve job.
If you manage to get everything working on that truck and the body fixed up rust free you will have a real collectors item. I think 25,000 dollars at least for it again with all the extra's working
Did you do a compression check? probably just a valve stuck open! remove the valve cover & get to checking exactly what is going on!!! NEED TO HAVE THE VALVE COVER OFF WHEN DOING A COMPRESSION CHECK, TO ENSURE THE VALVES ARE OPENING & CLOSING CORRECTLY! MIGHT JUST NEED TO LUBRICATE & ADJUST A FEW ROCKER ARMS? TIGHTEN UP THE ONE THAT IS CAUSING THE LEAK!
You do not need the condenser, whoever told you that was for negating noise from the ignition system from affecting the radio is correct. Just to be clear, you DO need the condenser within the distributor!!!. Your firing order is incorrect or ignition timing is way off. You also might have a stuck exhaust valve. Actually thinking about it, I would bet you have 1 or more exhaust valves stuck open. Take the valve cover off and POP them with a mallet. You DO NOT necessarily have a non serviceable engine. Try my suggestion first. An engine that sits for a very long time will ALWAYS have low compression. Run it for a while and then check the compression again I promise you it will go up. Trust me when I tell you all this. I have resurrected many engines of all sizes and makes that have sat for two decades or more.
They did not misspell Tyre, it's spelled the British way. Just because it is not spelled the American way does not mean it's spelled wrong. :) There are many differences between our versions of English. Hell even Scotland has it's own words.
thats ok. i guess if we can have african americans, and mexican americans i can be an english american. families been over here for 210 years.i,m still an arkansas hillbilly.
You dont need to take anything apart to get it running. When engines sit for decades and you decide to turn it over the valves dont sit right anymore. You have to just keep cranking. You may want to buy a spare starter. You will be doing an hour of constant cranking and it may burn out the starter. Once you get the engine running it will run like garbage and you will need to let it run for a while. The longer you run it the better the compression will get. This is just a Chevy engine so its not worth the repairs. If you do the swap just put the original engine back in. Jeep has the biggest following of any car im sure getting an engine for it wont be hard and the Jeep engine will make it reliable. I still think the cranking method will work. Just dont rev the crap out of it when you get it going.
An old mechanic's trick for timing the engine before starting: Turn the engine over until you are on the compression stroke for number one. Line up your timing marks. Remove number one spark plug wire from the distributor. Turn on the ignition. Hold the number one spark plug wire a little bit above its hole in the cap. Rotate the distributor until you see a spark jump from the cap to the number one wire. That's it, lock it down. You'll be within a degree or two. I got that procedure from a 1948 Buick owner's manual and I've used it with every point ignition engine I've ever disassembled and it has never let me down. However I do not believe it will work on electronic ignition, only point systems. It did not work when I tried to do it on a car with MSD ignition.
Thanks for that
Condenser - A condenser in the distributor or at the coil is not for radio noise suppression. It is there to damp sparking across the ignition points, which will destroy them quite quickly. That was why point sets came with new condensers (aka "capacitors"). They took quite a beating. People who have never worked with non-electronic ignitions won't have encountered this. Suppression caps for radio were on the generator or regulator. Spark noise was suppressed with resistor plugs or wires.
IMPORTANT - These condensers could fail open or shorted. Some would even become thermal - OK or open when cold/shorted when hot. A short will kill or reduce voltage. There may also be a resistor wire to provide higher voltage to the coil when cranking/lower voltage when running. VERY failure-pron and sometimes replaced with a regular resistor.
Valve issue - engines that sit idle for many years often (VERY often) end up with a stuck valve, usually where the valve stopped the last time it ran.. On a flathead ("L- Head") (like my 39 Plymouth) or even an "F-Head" (Jeep engines) where the exhaust valves are in the block, engine you can sometimes pour penetrating oil into the stuck (open) valve and maybe free it. An OHV like this is a bit harder to deal with. Off comes the head in most cases. You could also have a broken valve or rocker arm. Pull the head. Dribble oil into the valve stem of a stuck one. There is an added trick to free it but it is risky to the valve to try so I won't add it here.
I think you also need to rebuild the carb. Other cylinders should be firing and the engine kicking if not actually running. This design has an accelerator pump like an old-time hand water pump (even made of leather most times) and it will be shot now. Pouring gas through the throat will not diagnose that.
If you pull the rocker arm assembly off, soak the stuck valve(s) in penetrating oil, and smack them with a dead blow they usually come free. Needs to be a dead blow or rubber hammer so you don't mushroom the end of the valve.
The condenser on the coil is just a standard radio noise suppression condenser installed on most older Chevy engines. Has nothing to do with the points. Can be disconnected. It's hooked to the positive side of the coil.
Yeah, sorry if I misled with that sentence. They were pretty ineffective since they were on the LV side and car radios of that era had their own suppression systems built-in (and were a %&$#@ to service). Mica, while stable, was a nightmare if the connections rusted/corroded. Usually had to build a new network, especially with the old tube sets.
that cond.is part of a resoance circuit must be correct mf value or will burn points thats why people have to change points too often wrong value cond.
Stick with it, you’re getting there. Thanks for posting.
I found another source for jeep parts when my GPS took me a different route than normal to the unclaimed baggage store in Scottsbouro. There is a Postal Jeep parts store in Boaz . They were not open when I stopped by but I looked up their website and they have a lot of different parts including engines and transmissions . My old Willys is a wasp magnet also . I really need to get back to work on it but between the weather and every day life problems it's hard to schedule a time when I can work on it. In the meantime I will have to live vicariously through your adventures with your Willys.
I didn't know that but I will look them up now, thanks
Tyre is correct depending on what country you live in.
Fascinating. Looking forward to more Willys adventures.
Just pull the valve cover off and smack the valves around with a rubber mallet after you drench them in oil. If you have zeeeeeero compression at all, it's either two snapped rods, or your valves are hanging open.
Or they're bent. Either way, not too terrible of a fix.
On the sticking valve cylinder... Pull the Spark plug and use a screw driver to push valve closed. Soak it with WD and tap open with rubber hammer closed with Screw driver till it frees up... IT WILL RUN...
A lot of times when engines haven’t been started in a long time, they develop low compression due to the rings not seating. You should try to dump a little oil down each spark plug hole and see if the compression value increases. I’m willing to bet that it will! After the engine does start for the first time, the compression will likely come back up. You could also try to pull start it. This makes the engine spin faster that a starter motor alone. I’ve seen this multiple times with cars that people want me to restore and the engine has no compression. I’m usually able to get the compression back up when I dump some oil down the spark plug holes, put them back in, and crank it. I like to use marvel mystery oil myself.
Take valve cover off you can tell which valves are sticking you might be able to free them. If you get junkyard motor , 194, 230 and 250 should be a bolt in replacement
I agree take that valve cover off !
Tom Burgess The
It's probably not a worn out engine as much as it is you probably have some stuck valves. Take the valve cover off and investigate. Also, about a tablespoon of ATF in the cylinders will help free up stuck rings.
Yep ... time to pull the valve cover off and see if the valve train is still intact. Then see if you can loosen any stuck valves with a dead blow hammer and some lubricant. That era of engine had nylon coated cam gear teeth and it was real common for it to shed teeth and to jump time somewhere in the 45-65,000 mile range. That can also show up as no compression if the valves are open during the upstroke.
Hahahahahaha "what's all these gears?" "No that jus knocks all the bugs out the engine"
"That knocks all the bugs out of the engine." HAHAHA!
By the time this wagon runs their kids will have children of their own....😉If you all like to know when this wagon will run ,here it is :it is video # 221 in 2029 late fall 😆. No matter what...I stick with them...they are a great family !
You can use an old gear lube bottle to prime and fill the carb with fuel, filled through the vent. Check ignition timing. Hydraulic valves drain after sitting.
A gravity fed lawn mower gas tank w/ a shut off will help you get it started. Most old fuel pumps do not work well, but with gas to the pump it will help.
Im glad you showed the compressor, I was looking for one! I love your wagon, good luck with it!
The British spell tire wrong as you saw!
That ol engine will start no problem probably just a stuck valve once it starts running it will get better the more u run it,I'm a diesel mechanic and I've worked on just about everything in my life
Suggestion (yeah, I know it is too late, but you will probably do another and another...)Jump start devices, including big boy battery chargers, are designed to work on conjunction with a battery. And, speaking of batteries, always get the biggest one that will fit the battery box, usually a Group 27. (Not the same as buying the most expensive) The wire from the distributor which goes to the points and condenser is to be connected to the negative post on the coil. Nothing else connects here, unless it is a pickup wire for a tach. The positive side connects to ignition, usually through a ballast resistor on 12 volt vehicles. Another wire goes to the starter solenoid "I" terminal. This is to give a hotter spark when cranking. Running without the ballast resistor for very long will burn the points, and might damage the coil.
That knocks all the bugs out of the engine 🤣🤣
I’ve got a 53 Willy’s I just got goin. Take spark plugs out put some oil on top of cylinder let it soak. Rings get dry it will not have compression
Hey brother, The rings are stuck in the piston groves, and you have stuck valves. This engine will start. Running it will free everything up. If the flames scare you rig up an exhaust. I've done this many times. Good luck.
thanks, a lot of viewers have said that so I'm taking your advice and working on that next. Thanks for being polite giving instructions
It is a lot of fun to see so many of your viewers jumping in Elbow Deep with you in the Willys. LIKE!
I agree with AngryRed Banjo,that there is at least 1 exhaust valve open.(the flames out the header)Please..Use a hose off the gas bottle,or a tiny funnel, and fill your float bowl through the vent hole.It will run a few seconds if it starts.I see people pour gas in the carb and it flames up or pours right into a cylinder(case proved).Best wishes to you and yours.
Its amazing how good of condition the chrome is on that truck
That last symbol on the booster is obviously a microphone for the karaoke function. Stuck valves for sure. If you pull the valve cover, you can give the rocker arms a little rap to free them up. Just use the karaoke function of the booster for that, or a rubber mallet.
I'm gonna try that, both ideas
""I don't know if I wanna pump it up anymore.... let's do it anyway"....lol
Wasps. 1/4 - 1/3 part dish soap ( I use Dawn) and water in spray bottle. Spray them and they drop like nobody's business. Spray the nest and no new ones will build there again for a long time. Great videos, by the way.
thanks I'll try that, I'm tired of getting wasp spray blown back in my face year after year so It's time for a change!
You're welcome. Works better than any wasp spray I've tried and any blowback is just a face wash. :)
Nice vids can’t wait to see it going my grandfather used to drive a old truck like that
You have either 2 valves hanging open in two cylinders OR you have two cylinders with broken rings, either way, that engine needs major attention, suggest pulling the head and have a look see before you crank it over anymore and do more damage !!
The long power cord on the Audew tire pump is great.
the air pump gets quiter when the battery starts to lose power you should use it while the car is running if you have a bad battery and you need to pump a few tires and they take long i have one like it its very handy and we never needed to go anywhere for some air unless there is a puncture in the tire though the one i have has a full kit to fix punctures we have 3 cars and 3 bikes at home
If you listen to it carefully while cranking you can hear it "missing" That's missing compression.( Uneven sound while cranking.) You say two adjacent cylinders are not firing. In most cases I would say a blown head gasket between the two cylinders. Since it has been sitting for a decade or so I would make sure all the valves are going up and down first. Then a compression test would be in order. Compression test is going to give weird readings on an engine that hasn't been running so that test my not be the best . Sticking valves, stuck rings, rusty valve seats, and other things will give faulty readings. If it were mine I'd pull all the rockers off, apply penetrating oil to the valve, and tap all the valves quite a few times with a hammer to loosen them up and perhaps that will help them seat a bit too. Adjusting valves is easy. They are hydraulic.
I've been enjoying the progress so far.
I have the same knife, mine has a broken tip too, wonder what causes that.... :)
I had in 2 cylinders and one of my valves were sticking I put Marvel's Mystery Oil in the spark plug holes let it sit for 2 days and those two problems cylinders compression tripled it's worth a try sometimes you have oxidation on Rings or sticking valves
Nice I could definately use one of those little jump packs. The old lead acid ones dont hold up and i have to jump start things just about every day.
I came across your video last night watch now have breakfast loving it
Tyre is the English spelling for tire. The term tyre came from the name for the metal ring which went around the outside of a wagon wheel rim and tyed it all together. It held the rim to the spokes.
by the way, next time you want to see if it,s a 292 check the lifter cover. 292 were a little wider than a 230.
get some new gas! check the carb, does the gas show when you pump it with the # 12 on the floor? Is their any sparl on the front cylinder, take the plug wire off the front one, hook it to a good plug and turn it over!
The Jeep is coming along. I have one of those gizmos and I use it on my yard wagon. It also jump starts my van.
Symptoms of Bad or Failing Points & Condenser. If your vehicle runs rough, the engine will not fire, or the vehicle will not start at all, the points and condenser system may be failing. ... The condenser is attached to the system by breaker points.
Ignition might be 180 degrees out? Not sure if you checked yet...
You can hear as it turns over that it is low on compression on a number of cylinders. Maybe stuck valves like you say.
Your cylinders are dry, so put a little light oil down inside each one and let sit awhile. There is no oil in the top end of the valves so lube those as well. Revisit it in a few days and she'll be alright.
I'll try that, thanks
if it needs rebuilding, forget it an install a chevy. v-8. thats all ive used in 2 cheyy trucks 1949 and 1950 and a 1952 ford truck. good luck
it is firing the plugs l;ate..if it was out the carb with flames its early on the timing..and i agree with the fellow that said take valve cover off take rubber hammer and bap the rockers to free valves :)
Its,been 4 yrs but. Anytime you go to crank an old engine. Put oil in the cylinders first. By pulling the spark plugs. Rings need the lube to seal.
Oilless compressors take forever to do anything, plus they make a tremendous racket.
Well,I wasn't gonna harp on this but now for sure you gonna need to look at those valves ,rods and pistons
EA-LOL.....I dont' have the words. I wish I was there. Best to You, your Bride, and EAJ From CA US Many Thanks
Did you grind the valves?a good seat helps.It was a dump?handy.good find.That head will be good for both.
Yes, inspecting the valve train is the next step, where's your shop manual? I don't see one.
The valves arent closing all the way is why you have no compression.keep cranking on it get it to fire a few times the valves will loosen up probaly.gey the bearded one to drag ypu around some now that you have fuel up.
Hey I liked the first one with the long cord but this one is cool as well...
Get you a longer tuber file line set a gas can on the bumper tied down hook the file line up to the filter.
I would pull the valve cover and see if the are stuck open.
Give me fuel , give me Fire,holy hell FIRE, Fire down below !! Get the fire extinguisher 😲,i was yelling at the t.v. ffffiiirrrreee
I came back to the south after living in Denver for years. My question is wth do people slow to crawl to get a look at a accident. Proceed with caution, but don't freaking stop or crawl. You may see something you don't want to. Right?
Is that a 6 volt, or 12 volt system, most of the Jeeps back then were a 6 Volt system
The flames could be because it might be a positive ground and the engine could be spinning backwards... which means that the engine is firing on the exhaust stroke instead of compression... I would double check to see if it is a positive ground.... if it is stuck valves if you take off the valve cover and watch the valves as you crank it over it will tell you either way... if you have stuck valves pour some marvels mystery oil or transmission fluid on the valve stems and let sit for a day or so, then tap the valve stems with a wooden mallet to break them free...
Starter would not function in reverse because the Bendix only works in one direction, it would have a sound similar to a starter not engaging if the starter turned backwards. Not turning backwards.
Mike Goodman yes your right... I forgot about the bendex being a over running clutch...
John Acuff this truck has a six volt system.... he said that in the first video on the truck
it's a 12v, if I said 6 I must have been tired
Exploring Alabama no problem..... ok the flames and lack of compression is either stuck valves or the timing is so far out that it’s firing on the exhaust stroke... the plug wires may be out by one hole in the distributor cap... but I would first take the valve cover off and as it cranks over watch what the valves are doing... if they are working then I would start but putting cylinder #1 on top dead center on its compression stroke... then check to see where the rotor is pointing in reference to the distributor cap terminals...
The tires are good!?!?!? OK like you said just get it started... OMG the tires are good????
take the plugs out and dump gas right into there. if it has fire it should catch. it might break any valves that aren't shot loose.
Take valve covers off. Last week i got a car running after 25 years and it had 4 stuck valves so i had to take the heads off to free them.
i live on the east coast of canada . i had a 61 chevy. 250 cid . i couldnt kill it .now i been wondering how i would go about sending something by snail mail.
Try taking the valve cover off and see if you have a stuck valve.
you should take the valve cover off anyway just to see if you got couple stuck valves . I need to no lol .
That wire just takes noise out the radio
A spark creates a whole lot of electric noise, i.e. a fairly random high-frequency signal. A capacitor blocks DC (like from a car battery) but is pretty much a short-circuit to high frequencies, killing the unwanted noise from the spark if connected to ground.
"the tires are good"
yeah :)
Why you don't calibrate valves to start de engine and you can put some gasoline into de carburetor
nice battery "shelf"
throw a quart of tranny fluid in the crank case, won't hurt it, frees up internals that have been dormant for extended periods. Spin the engine over so the oil is getting to the top. Pull valve cover, spin it over again, watching the valve train for the springs that aren't returning. As mentioned, grab a soft face hammer, or regular hammer with a block of wood and start banging on the stuck ones until they start to return by themselves after you bang down on them. Once they are free, should fire right up. I'm sure you have it going by now. Good luck
done all that, one is stuck down and refuses to come up
Damn right get them plugs in,sponsered by freedee.Whatever you do don't. 1atdc valves close.It will run,or it would be the first, intact.for me,meaning I've seen them blow.
looks like a bad head gasket or a stuck valve (s) judging by the way the smoke is sucking and blowing in and out of the exhaust. this would cause the compression and fire problem. remove valve cover and check all rockers for clearance.
Yeah looks like exhaust valve is wide open with those instant flames out of the exhaust...
Flames out the exhaust, exhaust valves are not seating properly. Check your valve rockers are adjusted properly, otherwise, Looks like you need a valve job.
EA I would just slip a rebuilt head on and give that a try, enjoy your videos, thanks.
Like the screw on nozzle better then the common lever nozzle
If you manage to get everything working on that truck and the body fixed up rust free you will have a real collectors item. I think 25,000 dollars at least for it again with all the extra's working
Great Score on the air compressor and battery jumpbox! Great score on your Willys too!!! Thank you for let me watching the process of Willys...
Did you set the points?
Did you do a compression check? probably just a valve stuck open! remove the valve cover & get to checking exactly what is going on!!! NEED TO HAVE THE VALVE COVER OFF WHEN DOING A COMPRESSION CHECK, TO ENSURE THE VALVES ARE OPENING & CLOSING CORRECTLY! MIGHT JUST NEED TO LUBRICATE & ADJUST A FEW ROCKER ARMS? TIGHTEN UP THE ONE THAT IS CAUSING THE LEAK!
Put some oil down the spark plug holes and see if that helps
you need new gaskets, your timing seems to be OK, but it seems that an ignition wire is missing or not hooked up.
Awesome videos manwbst part of Alabama are u in I'd love to help work on the jeep im a huge jeep lover
Very nice it's getting there run baby run
You can rent a compression guage and lots of other tools at autozone for free (they charge you, but refund when you return). Good luck!
I already checked it, 0 on two, minimal on the others
Elegant rarity!
You do not need the condenser, whoever told you that was for negating noise from the ignition system from affecting the radio is correct. Just to be clear, you DO need the condenser within the distributor!!!. Your firing order is incorrect or ignition timing is way off. You also might have a stuck exhaust valve. Actually thinking about it, I would bet you have 1 or more exhaust valves stuck open. Take the valve cover off and POP them with a mallet. You DO NOT necessarily have a non serviceable engine. Try my suggestion first. An engine that sits for a very long time will ALWAYS have low compression. Run it for a while and then check the compression again I promise you it will go up. Trust me when I tell you all this. I have resurrected many engines of all sizes and makes that have sat for two decades or more.
12:31 I've had those before. Trying to recall the reason I got them though...
They did not misspell Tyre, it's spelled the British way. Just because it is not spelled the American way does not mean it's spelled wrong. :) There are many differences between our versions of English. Hell even Scotland has it's own words.
I was kidding
thats ok. i guess if we can have african americans, and mexican americans i can be an english american. families been over here for 210 years.i,m still an arkansas hillbilly.
thanks for another great video good luck maybe someone out there has a motor for you
your videos are great
thank you
You need to hook up wires on rear of generator to power up electrical system
You dont need to take anything apart to get it running. When engines sit for decades and you decide to turn it over the valves dont sit right anymore. You have to just keep cranking. You may want to buy a spare starter. You will be doing an hour of constant cranking and it may burn out the starter. Once you get the engine running it will run like garbage and you will need to let it run for a while. The longer you run it the better the compression will get. This is just a Chevy engine so its not worth the repairs. If you do the swap just put the original engine back in. Jeep has the biggest following of any car im sure getting an engine for it wont be hard and the Jeep engine will make it reliable. I still think the cranking method will work. Just dont rev the crap out of it when you get it going.
"Am I missing an eyebrow???" Y'all know who said that..
Jilly Bean It was on Roadkill'
Adam savage on Mythbusters said that
jerseymh we have a winner!! LOL
Jilly Bean ha i knew it i watched way to much Mythbusters lol
jerseymh that was the best episode ever. His reaction was priceless!
Nice work
Radio frequency suppressor. Without you can’t listen to a radio anywhere in the vicinity while the engine is running.
Keep playing with it
It will eventually fire then the valves will work free
If you get tired of it I want it!!!!!
stuck valves. pull the valve cover and hit the top on the valve springs with a rubber hammer or piece of wood.