Notice you completely skipped the Actual process of removing AND installing the front crank seal? When you aimed the camera down it was already removed, and when the segment skipped on the install it was already installed. Why tell people not to use a socket to install the seal? This method has been used for years and is recommended by many professionals and sometimes manufacturers. Sometimes manufacturers do recommend their special tools but Most of the time a socket will work just fine, as long as it's the correct size. (Slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the seal). Also a short section of pipe can be used.
50 mm Honda/Acura crankshaft pulley tool and a 25 inch+ breaker with an extension is an absolute MUST. YOU WILL NEVER BREAK K SERIES CRANKSHAFT BOLT WITHOUT IT.
What would happen if the crankshaft moves, I tried loosing the bolt with my harbor freight impact gun and could not get it out . However the crankshaft turned for about 3/4 of a turn .
Stupid question I know,but do you have any directions or advice maybe a video showing me how to go about changing rear seal on my 99 Honda Crv engine? Any tips greatly appreciated,thanks,Scott king
Scott King would love to but I don't have or no of anyone with one. But to help you depends if it is fwd or awd, as well as 5 speed or automatic, either way you have to remove the front axles and transmission to get to it.
The special socket I bought was on the tool truck. But you can get the tool off amazon as well just google the year make and model along with crank pulley removal tool. It holds the crank in place.
Honestly yes it was I would have recorded it but the camera was charging we had to heat it several times and using a impact gun. I have a special socket sold by Matco that actually took it off
Anyone know a reason why this seal would spontaneously and catastrophically fail? My wife was driving on the freeway, she said it sounded like something hit the underside of the car, though nothing hit the car, she said then it sounded like a rock in a tin can, clank clank clank kind of sound, then, the sound stopped. She drove it home. The engine was low on oil, there was oil all over the engine compartment on the passenger side, like the oil was hitting the serpentine belt and going everywhere. The front and rear passenger brakes and tires, on the inside were covered in oil. Am I looking at just replacing the seal, or is it likely that something more significant happened to the crank shaft/bearings, etc. This car has had NO oil leaks ever, not like this seal was slowly leaking. Just a sudden failure at freeway speeds. Earlier in the drive, she MAX AC at full power, and engine started to overheat, so she switched it off, and turned on the heat and rolled down the windows. Any thoughts? I have another vehicle in the garage that I'm working on, so can't get the cr-v up onto a flat surface, to take off the tire, and take a better look. But I have no experience with this level of work. Any help really appreciated.
@@Texazmane Thanks for responding! No, the belt didn't snap. The belt was in bad shape before this, dry and a little cracky, but it had strong tension, way more tension than our MDX, and never heard it make a noise, no squealing. I don't know how old it is, it might even be original, so that is a 15 year old belt at worst, I think around 150,000 miles. It was on my list to replace, once a friend bought a serp belt wrench! I think the belt would do worse in the heat, failing to run the AC properly, and failing to circulate coolant in the engine (I may be way off on that, having a senior moment, so my apologies if I'm talking madness), also, one hot day a couple of months ago my wife was stranded at work as the battery was dead when she tried to start it to come home. The battery is old, but it was working fine. She jumped it, and since the battery gave no trouble, never had a low charge, never a weak start. So, I think that too was the serp belt failing to properly drive the alternator that day. The car was running, but it was tending to run hot, this hot hot summer. The coolant looked bright and new (we bought the car in 2015, so that's 5 years of high desert heat, at least, no clue when the prior owner changed the coolant, they went with a universal... I'm hoping at least, yellow, but maybe I had coolant change done, my memory is failing badly) with no smell, but the level was a little low, the overflow tank was empty! But, I couldn't find any sign of leaks, never anything but condensation under the car. I don't have a tool to check radiator pressure. I filled the overflow reservoir but it seems like coolant wasn't circulating well... Sorry for all this rambling... TL;DR: Belt is old but still functioning, never heard it slipping, but there is some indication that it was failing to properly/fully run accessories like alternator, AC, and coolant pump in the heat. But she drove the car home during/after this incident. Also, one more data point - when I first saw oil dripping under the car (I was chatting in the driveway with a neighbor when she pulled up, and I happened to notice the oil leaking, thank God) I popped the hood, and the oil dipstick was loose, like it popped up. The dipstick's o-rings are fine, and the dipstick double clicks into place and seals fully. It takes a proper amount of force to pull the dipstick out... but it was popped up and loose. I think the engine jerked very hard, knocking the dipstick out of place. That concerns me! I've looked at the engine mounts, they seem fine, but what do I know! I'm thinking the harmonic dampener/crank shaft pully (same part) may have failed as well, but I have a greater concern that something catastrophic with the crankshaft or engine internals happened. But I'm totally ignorant as to engine internals. I don't go in there. I've started doing basic maintenance out of poverty from becoming disabled, but I'm not a gear head. I've always had a good mechanic who did great work at a great price, wherever we lived, I don't know how, but I always seemed to find these saints. But, we moved to a new state, and I've been unable to find a good shop. There are a few shops in the area, but this county's zoning is messed up, and there is very VERY little zoning for automotive repair. There are a few shops but they all are big money operations, bring you tea and biscuits while you wait for your $300 oil change. No. We can't afford that. Might as well go to the stealership - brought our MDX to a local Honda dealership - owned by one of the top three owners in the country - $2,000 for the big 125,000 mile service. AND they failed to plug in the motor that switches the length of the air intake manifold, causing all kinds of codes and systems failures after I got the MDX back. I took the MDX in for this service before a big family roadtrip, didin't want any problems. 4 adults, 1 teenager, and luggage when it started failing systems... everything went down, engine light. It took me a year to finally remove the engine/beauty cover and instantly see that the motor was unplugged, glaring black and white connectors, even I, with no car mechanic knowledge saw it instantly. This is the quality of work you get for $2,000 for maintenance level work from a major dealership? I'm done with them... So, I'm stuck doing this stuff by myself, though with with the massive data pool of the internet and kind folks such as yourself. Thanks for any thoughts, and sorry for the rant. I'm losing it.
Was there oil on your belt splashing oil on the hood and all over the side , before the change of the seal . Is that how you noticed it . Or did you go the ultra violent light an eye way to find out . I replace my solenoid and it's still leaking oil all over the right side of the engine and it's splashing on the hood and also the oil is on the Belt coming and splashing on the reservoir for the antifreeze.. is this most likely the crankshaft seal I do not see any oil leaks around the gasket head cover
Well there was oil being found in the place you described, as well with with the dye and a UV light. One thing to note that can also start leaking is right behind the power steering there is a small square shape cover that has a gasket that can leak also. Be sure to check the back of the valve cover.
@@DrivenDailyGaming omg its oil I've been in a shop since I was a little asshole lol . No oil on the back the head cover gasket it's good to go bo leaks I change the solenoid in the back put a new gasket in that with screen. It's still leaking oil from somewhere but I'm thinking it might be the shaft you guys are working on because the oils being carried from the bottom to the top and it's all over the boots everywhere. Now where exactly and what is the name of this box you guys are talking about?
@@Sunshinefrom918That's insane. Anyone who actually knows what this job entails shouldn't be billing you more than an hour. This is a 30 minute job tops for someone who routinely works on cars, add on a potential little extra for cleanup and so on, absolutely insane amount.
protip, that little cover there is called the VTC strainer, it filters oil before it enters the VTC valve. here's a video taking it apart ua-cam.com/video/YYKikGysXqE/v-deo.html
Unwatchable. If you're trying to show something, don't have an air compressor charging in the background; either turn it off, of put the parts back on the car and reshoot later.
Unreal, you skip the installation of the seal! Show your work, boys!
For future folk this also the best place to replace the water pump from once the balancer is off you can sneak it out at this same location.
Notice you completely skipped the Actual process of removing AND installing the front crank seal? When you aimed the camera down it was already removed, and when the segment skipped on the install it was already installed.
Why tell people not to use a socket to install the seal? This method has been used for years and is recommended by many professionals and sometimes manufacturers. Sometimes manufacturers do recommend their special tools but Most of the time a socket will work just fine, as long as it's the correct size. (Slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the seal). Also a short section of pipe can be used.
This is not a 2000 CR-V. This is a second generation CR-V which would be 2002 and later. The 2000 came with a B-Series not K-Series.
Lance Beavers lmao I didn't mean to type 2000 it'll be fixed
Part #?
50 mm Honda/Acura crankshaft pulley tool and a 25 inch+ breaker with an extension is an absolute MUST.
YOU WILL NEVER BREAK K SERIES CRANKSHAFT BOLT WITHOUT IT.
I just did.. I hit my ratchet with a mallet.. It did great
Without the breaker extension
Beautiful.
Thank you!
straight to the point, love this video. gonna do mine now
Now, do you have a video of replacing the Rear Main Seal?
Many owners will refused to pay for that labor works.
I do not have a video of doing the rear mainly because I don't need to yet. You have to pull the transmission to do it.
@@DrivenDailyGaming That is the main reason many owners will not have it done due to a high expensive repair bills.
@@angelisone its not hard at all honestly just a little time consuming.
What would happen if the crankshaft moves, I tried loosing the bolt with my harbor freight impact gun and could not get it out .
However the crankshaft turned for about 3/4 of a turn .
Well you can rotate the crankshaft. Doesnt cause any problems that I know of.
Stupid question I know,but do you have any directions or advice maybe a video showing me how to go about changing rear seal on my 99 Honda Crv engine? Any tips greatly appreciated,thanks,Scott king
Scott King would love to but I don't have or no of anyone with one. But to help you depends if it is fwd or awd, as well as 5 speed or automatic, either way you have to remove the front axles and transmission to get to it.
What is the difference with the K Series and the L Series with changing the front seal?
This maybe a dum question BUT LOL did you need a special tool to get crank pulley off? How did you get it off? GREAT video too THANKS!!!
Not a dumb question at all you can go to any parts store and ask for a loaner tool. We had to heat it up a little with a torch. And use my impact
So backing that nut off does not require any tool holding the pulley then ? Just a loaner socket? and an impact with heat?
The special socket I bought was on the tool truck. But you can get the tool off amazon as well just google the year make and model along with crank pulley removal tool. It holds the crank in place.
Thank you again!!
Dealer wanted a grand for this job
Was that crankbolt a b**** to remove ?
Honestly yes it was I would have recorded it but the camera was charging we had to heat it several times and using a impact gun. I have a special socket sold by Matco that actually took it off
Driven Daily is it a socket that weighs 4 times a normal deep well socket ?
@@559thugs lol yes it is, quite heavy compared to normal.
@@559thugs they also make a tool the sits inside the crank that you can put a breaker bar on to brace it and hold it still
Driven Daily just ordered it from amazon those darn bolts were tighted by budda himself lol
I have hearing problems and that compressor made it impossible for me to hear anything you said.
As I understand that it was not intentional to disrupt your hearing ability
that is a lot of leak. oowW.
Thanks for this video
Were dos the o riing go on front sea)
What is the product that are you using to remove oil?
brake parts cleaner.
Bolt should loosen counter clock wise right?
Yes
Anyone know a reason why this seal would spontaneously and catastrophically fail? My wife was driving on the freeway, she said it sounded like something hit the underside of the car, though nothing hit the car, she said then it sounded like a rock in a tin can, clank clank clank kind of sound, then, the sound stopped. She drove it home. The engine was low on oil, there was oil all over the engine compartment on the passenger side, like the oil was hitting the serpentine belt and going everywhere. The front and rear passenger brakes and tires, on the inside were covered in oil.
Am I looking at just replacing the seal, or is it likely that something more significant happened to the crank shaft/bearings, etc. This car has had NO oil leaks ever, not like this seal was slowly leaking. Just a sudden failure at freeway speeds. Earlier in the drive, she MAX AC at full power, and engine started to overheat, so she switched it off, and turned on the heat and rolled down the windows. Any thoughts?
I have another vehicle in the garage that I'm working on, so can't get the cr-v up onto a flat surface, to take off the tire, and take a better look. But I have no experience with this level of work. Any help really appreciated.
Did the belt snap?
@@Texazmane Thanks for responding! No, the belt didn't snap. The belt was in bad shape before this, dry and a little cracky, but it had strong tension, way more tension than our MDX, and never heard it make a noise, no squealing. I don't know how old it is, it might even be original, so that is a 15 year old belt at worst, I think around 150,000 miles. It was on my list to replace, once a friend bought a serp belt wrench!
I think the belt would do worse in the heat, failing to run the AC properly, and failing to circulate coolant in the engine (I may be way off on that, having a senior moment, so my apologies if I'm talking madness), also, one hot day a couple of months ago my wife was stranded at work as the battery was dead when she tried to start it to come home. The battery is old, but it was working fine. She jumped it, and since the battery gave no trouble, never had a low charge, never a weak start. So, I think that too was the serp belt failing to properly drive the alternator that day.
The car was running, but it was tending to run hot, this hot hot summer. The coolant looked bright and new (we bought the car in 2015, so that's 5 years of high desert heat, at least, no clue when the prior owner changed the coolant, they went with a universal... I'm hoping at least, yellow, but maybe I had coolant change done, my memory is failing badly) with no smell, but the level was a little low, the overflow tank was empty! But, I couldn't find any sign of leaks, never anything but condensation under the car. I don't have a tool to check radiator pressure. I filled the overflow reservoir but it seems like coolant wasn't circulating well...
Sorry for all this rambling... TL;DR: Belt is old but still functioning, never heard it slipping, but there is some indication that it was failing to properly/fully run accessories like alternator, AC, and coolant pump in the heat.
But she drove the car home during/after this incident.
Also, one more data point - when I first saw oil dripping under the car (I was chatting in the driveway with a neighbor when she pulled up, and I happened to notice the oil leaking, thank God) I popped the hood, and the oil dipstick was loose, like it popped up. The dipstick's o-rings are fine, and the dipstick double clicks into place and seals fully. It takes a proper amount of force to pull the dipstick out... but it was popped up and loose. I think the engine jerked very hard, knocking the dipstick out of place. That concerns me! I've looked at the engine mounts, they seem fine, but what do I know!
I'm thinking the harmonic dampener/crank shaft pully (same part) may have failed as well, but I have a greater concern that something catastrophic with the crankshaft or engine internals happened.
But I'm totally ignorant as to engine internals. I don't go in there. I've started doing basic maintenance out of poverty from becoming disabled, but I'm not a gear head. I've always had a good mechanic who did great work at a great price, wherever we lived, I don't know how, but I always seemed to find these saints. But, we moved to a new state, and I've been unable to find a good shop. There are a few shops in the area, but this county's zoning is messed up, and there is very VERY little zoning for automotive repair.
There are a few shops but they all are big money operations, bring you tea and biscuits while you wait for your $300 oil change. No. We can't afford that. Might as well go to the stealership - brought our MDX to a local Honda dealership - owned by one of the top three owners in the country - $2,000 for the big 125,000 mile service. AND they failed to plug in the motor that switches the length of the air intake manifold, causing all kinds of codes and systems failures after I got the MDX back.
I took the MDX in for this service before a big family roadtrip, didin't want any problems. 4 adults, 1 teenager, and luggage when it started failing systems... everything went down, engine light. It took me a year to finally remove the engine/beauty cover and instantly see that the motor was unplugged, glaring black and white connectors, even I, with no car mechanic knowledge saw it instantly. This is the quality of work you get for $2,000 for maintenance level work from a major dealership? I'm done with them...
So, I'm stuck doing this stuff by myself, though with with the massive data pool of the internet and kind folks such as yourself. Thanks for any thoughts, and sorry for the rant. I'm losing it.
Was there oil on your belt splashing oil on the hood and all over the side , before the change of the seal . Is that how you noticed it . Or did you go the ultra violent light an eye way to find out . I replace my solenoid and it's still leaking oil all over the right side of the engine and it's splashing on the hood and also the oil is on the Belt coming and splashing on the reservoir for the antifreeze.. is this most likely the crankshaft seal I do not see any oil leaks around the gasket head cover
Well there was oil being found in the place you described, as well with with the dye and a UV light. One thing to note that can also start leaking is right behind the power steering there is a small square shape cover that has a gasket that can leak also. Be sure to check the back of the valve cover.
Also it could be your power steering pump leaking
@@DrivenDailyGaming omg its oil I've been in a shop since I was a little asshole lol . No oil on the back the head cover gasket it's good to go bo leaks I change the solenoid in the back put a new gasket in that with screen. It's still leaking oil from somewhere but I'm thinking it might be the shaft you guys are working on because the oils being carried from the bottom to the top and it's all over the boots everywhere. Now where exactly and what is the name of this box you guys are talking about?
@@DrivenDailyGaming and thank you for all the help you can give . No one wants to waste money an these hondas can go forever
Looks like your lower control arm bushing is crack already!
Tighten that bolt good, and your well of for a couple more months until you can get a new one.
Where the o ring go ? It come whit the seal
You figure it out?
You used the crank pulley to push the seal in?
No just a socket an lightly tapped it into place.
@@DrivenDailyGaming WRONG PROCEDURE!!!
Generally how much would this be to get done at a shop?
Honestly I don't know, but I look at it as I don't want to spend to have it fixed lol.
$1,185 in labor. Got a quote today.
@@Sunshinefrom918That's insane. Anyone who actually knows what this job entails shouldn't be billing you more than an hour. This is a 30 minute job tops for someone who routinely works on cars, add on a potential little extra for cleanup and so on, absolutely insane amount.
Whats the part number?
A Martinez purchased at autozone Part Number: 710608
Driven Daily thank you
A Martinez no problem at all
At the 3:28 mark, my car is leaking oil from that spot your spraying. Would this be the same problem?
That is a oil filter screen if I remember correctly. But yes it does and or can leak from that area.
protip, that little cover there is called the VTC strainer, it filters oil before it enters the VTC valve. here's a video taking it apart ua-cam.com/video/YYKikGysXqE/v-deo.html
Power wash and degrease that whole side lol
Oh believe that we did, had to be done though it was horrible.
These guys don't believe in gloves or shoes
Lmao we do too.
Unwatchable. If you're trying to show something, don't have an air compressor charging in the background; either turn it off, of put the parts back on the car and reshoot later.
Peter Connolly quit being a baby.. it was only in forblike 30 seconds. How about you make a video on how to do it.
Well you can fuck right off!
Put some gloves on next time
Gloves are for pussies now stfu an go play pokemon catch
And socks & shoes, lmao!
You mean bitch mittens?
@@robh23a1 l