My dude…thank you. Your precision in process has confirmed that I am not going to produce quality results with some 2x4’s and vicegrips. I’ve rebuilt a 22RE, so I feel that I’ve nothing to prove. I’m taking my 4.0 to a quality machine shop, and tip em well.
Awesome videos! I really enjoyed watching. Though I've been working on my cars for over 30 years now, I think I will leave the engine rebuilding up to the experts like you. You already have all the necessary tools. Thank for posting the great videos!!!
Awsome to see a video where you don't use plasti guage, I'm a fabricator I feel everything should be done by true measure especially on a motor. Nice work!
You are very good in presenting this. I used to have a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4,0 Limited. The engine never failed even after 300 000 km. Just crank position sensor. A very good engines. Now I have a 4,7 WJ. And the valve seat dropped destroying whole engine. The repair cost was estimated much too much. So I am swapping a 4,7 Ho instead. But here in Poland we use LPG a lot. This gives you a little higher temperatures of combustion. So already hot running jeep gets even more heat and the valve seats are dropping. Do you have any patent to make it running a few degrees colder?
Jeep 6 cylinder engines are a 7 main bearing engine, they are extremely durable, designed for truck use, there intention was never to break land speed records, but to operate at load at low to medium rpms for extended periods of time, is off road to your favourite fishing hole in 4 x 4 in low range, they are still the best gas engines for this purpose, if that was the intent of the owner the components as stock replacement are truly the perfect choice. If competition use is intended then changes should be made for that. I am 57 my first excursion in a jeep was well before school age, and have a 78 cj in my driveway now, have no fears your good.
I don't think people who are not familiar with these engines understand just how good these 4.0's are. they really are in the legendary category as far as engines go, I put the 4.0 in my personal top 5 best engines ever made
My family has owned Willys-Overland cars and trucks since the early 1920's up until AMC got ahold of their product line. I agree that the 4.0 is the best BIG engine ever used in a Jeep, or Willys, but the 162 cu. inch F-head Hurricane Six, 134 F-head four were very tough long life engines.
I love seeing you build the Jeep 4.0 six. Thanks for documenting it for others to benefit from. Any chance that you would consider building an AMC 360 or 401 V8? A lot of old AMC era Jeeps still running those motors.
sorry I have another question about the 305 GMC 6cylinder. do you think they would handle boost OK ? I been thinking about keeping it a vehicle. and adding a turbo. 5-10 psi. And inter cool it. use it for toeing . like in a 1 ton 57 Chevy Holmes wrecker. it has a 350 in it now. but a turb'd retro GMC 6 would be awesome. if it would perform like the stock early 70's 350. or I was thinking about a 421 Pontiac engine. I'd like it to be different. and keep up with modern traffic! it has a 4 speed with PTO. for the winch works. it even has the original 18" wheels. they look nice . finding tires is another thing. they are maybe 7.00 18" they are out there . but are costly. it would be nice if the centers could be put in modern 20" or 22" dually rims. but that's costly also. so maybe retro fitting newer F-450-550 say it ain't so ford wheels on a Chevy. but that's the only low profile dually tires I have seen. maybe 20" rims. they would look so good on a old truck. I do have a 454 from a RV. in a half ton truck. I could put in the old truck. and maybe the headers will fit. just asking your opinion.. any 250 Chevy engines or late 60's GMC 6 i6 coming up? maybe some hot rodding of said i6's I have seen a 30's Chevy drag truck with a 6 cylinder. that is very fast. I like the LS engines but I'm not computer savvy. so I stick with carb'd engines. I like building performance engines. by using as much stock parts possible. mixing and matching. I do like aftermarket parts. but I like making it look stock! my firebird looked stock except for headers. and it was over 400 HP. it didn't sound stock though. great video. I like all the info you throw in there. thanks
I am a little disappointed that you didn't address ring end gaps or the type of aluminum the pistons are made of. Most new engines use hypereutectic alloy pistons with moly rings which is why they last 250K miles. Pistons should be purchased FIRST, then the bores matched to the pistons. Are new pistons larger and heavier than the OEMs? If so, you may need to ADD weight to the counterbalance throws in the crankshaft. Are the wrist pins 'full floating' or do the rods need to be heated to install wrist pins? How about orientation between pistons and rods, as some rods have an offset oiling hole at the top that needs to be oriented correctly on the directional piston. I weight-match my pistons, rods, then piston AND rod assemblies. No mention of crankshaft balancing, either. I do mine with the harmonic balancer and flex plate or flywheel on the crankshaft. You'll also need one assembled piston with bearings, bolts, nuts, wrist pin and keepers as an example for the crankshaft balancer.
Just watched this really helped me since im in the middle of i guess whats considered a partial rebuild. Number 1 piston head had a hole burned through the middle of it. Is it possible for me to use a piston head out of my other jeep engine?
If I wanted you to build me a 4.0 straight six how much would you charge rough estimate?????? I have a 2000 Cherokee and I'm abt 1500 miles from hitting 200,000 miles. I feel like the old engine is getting tired and either want to put a rebuilt 4.0 with either a turbo or supercharger or a 4bt or 6bt diesel in it. Was gonna do the work myself but I work for a shop that works on cdl type trucks and never really have time. So just curious on a price for a 4.0 i6 build
Did my 4.0 a while back. I would like to see you cover the mods. Like using an old AMC 258 crank and rods to make it a 4.2. I've seen them done up to 5.0 but wonder on durability of the block and reduced cyl thickness.
In some cases, a sonic tester is used in each cylinder bore to determine if there is enough iron for overboring. Sometimes the builder must reject several cores before finding one that can be bored to such an extreme.
You mentioned that the connecting rod side clearance (end play) should be between 10thousands and 20thousands. Does it mean: 0,0010 and 0,0020 inc.? Thank you!
The ring compressor that you use in this video, I've never seen a non-adjustable ring compressor, did it come with the new rings from the ring manufacturer? I've only ever used an adjustable (band style) that requires something like a square allen style key to tighten.
Just wondering about oil on the main cap bolt threads? Are the bolts going into blind holes? And if so, could too much oil cause a hydraulic effect and crack a block web? Thanks, I enjoy your videos.
im not sure...... but you sound correct their are quite a few different things that can "hydro lock" and not go in fully, or break shit idk if it would crack the block.....but it might prevent you from getting the proper torque on the bolt.....which will lead to the rod sawing the block in half, when the bearing goes if it was my car.....id make sure the holes didnt have excessive amounts of oil in them
Do you work alone ? Never seen anyone helping in your videos . I recently rebuilt a 4.0 in my machine shop that had busted a piston all to pieces , fairly common . I didn't install the intake manifold or ever have it in my shop . The customer completed that part of the assembly . When he cranked the engine there were small pieces of piston and rings in the intake . Guess what happened ? They got in the cylinders and damaged the brand new pistons . Engine had to come back out and be repaired a second time . This is a common issue on several different engines . We try to let our customers know if their engine has had a busted piston or dropped valve seat to clean or replace their intake system . Some engines 3.7 , 4.7 or 5.7 Chryslers drop seats and there is no way to clean out the plastic intake manifolds . Really like watching your videos , like seeing folks do what I do .
do you think is possible to remove the jeep xj engine from the bay by parts? i remove the head, now i would like to remove cranckshaft, and pistons with rods, then remove the cylinder from the bay . this si because i dont have a crane to remove all engine together
WUT! 4.0 jeep engines can take some abuse man! if ya want a car that can deal with no oil changes.....people who dont know how to do ANY sort of maintenance.....the types that drive with the engine making all sorts of BAD noises... 4.0 jeep all the way im a huge fan of the buick 3.8 v6......but they need some preventive maintenance (oil changes ON TIME.....replacing the lower intake gaskets to ones that dont get ate by GMs own dex-cool antifreeze) but i still have huge respect for the 4.0 l6
I do agree that the 4.0 is a tough engine. The worst thing I found was Jeeps valve cover vacuum lines would plug up with oil and even gum up the throttle body. I tore all the tubes off and just put a breather in the cover which fixed most of the issues.
Thanks for the unbiased and accurate info. My friend bought one for his wife and she always had trouble with it. Upon questioning, I discovered that she never had the oil changed or serviced the vehicle, unles it stopped running!
Some say bearing notches go to same side but on the other side of bolt, while say they go on opposite side of the block. Varies by engine I suppose. I will drop my pan and hope I can find out which way rod caps go! Geeeer.
kinda like damaging the ring lands if you strike them in too hard ive always herd old timers to side them in probably too over cautious trying not to scratch cylinder walls whist driving the pistons down into the bores and little rubber hoses over the connecting rod studs to protect the cylinder walls love your videos btw
Should have stuffed a 258 crank in it with a decent cam. You could have added 100 ft lbs for pennys......There is nothing more fun than blowing the doors off of V8 swapped jeeps with an inline 6. You may want to mic your lifters. Crower and mopar are the only ones for the jeep 4.0 that I have found to be the correct size.
As good as anything else if you maintain it. Had 2 of them. 71 Nova 3spd and 72 Firebird auto. Great little engines. Gas mileage is not as good as you'd think though. Rochester Monojet carbs not the best but they worked. But I was a kid then drove everything like I stole it.
I had one in a 78 Z28. It did very well, insane gas mileage, abused like hell for years in the desert, I tried to blow it up driving 115 in 3rd with low oil and coolant with the temp light on and it still wouldn't die. Drove 250 miles to California even after all that. I6 250 paired with a turbo 350 .The car overheated about 20 times (no joke) before the head cracked. The only time it stopped running is when I took it apart. Super easy to work on and cheap parts. I really miss that car.
It's hard to make everyone happy when I get more detailed I get viewers telling me it's to long and boring I assure there is nothing rushed about this I said it several times during these vid's that I did allot of stuff off camera how fast or slow a video goes is all about editing. I am interested to know what about this you think is sloppy?
Dude! Just got back online and found this comment to my comment. I am truly sorry if my comment came across as a indictment of your work. You usually have a "flow" to the videos you post (and I'm sure the folks who say you go into too much detail find the details boring and of no use- pay no attention to them). Just keep doing what you do. What I thought was "sloppy" was the rushed feel of the video and the lack of your normal detailed explanation. (I also can't find the previous video you referenced about how this build came to be). To be clear, there's nothing sloppy about your work. Maybe that word was not needed when I already used the term rushed. Thank you for asking for clarification, it helped me understand my comment a bit more. And thank you for the the great videos, I always look forward to them.
I know, I had a Comanche p/u could not drive in the rain. I'm a sbc guy, but, the best video on engines was the one where you showed the difference with Ford 351 w, the cleveland heads, modified, fe, and what was interchangeable. I need to watch that again because when I get around some blue oval guys I don't like that lost feeling....old V8s are everything to some of us older guys.....so thanks.
My dude…thank you. Your precision in process has confirmed that I am not going to produce quality results with some 2x4’s and vicegrips. I’ve rebuilt a 22RE, so I feel that I’ve nothing to prove. I’m taking my 4.0 to a quality machine shop, and tip em well.
cool!
Awesome videos! I really enjoyed watching. Though I've been working on my cars for over 30 years now, I think I will leave the engine rebuilding up to the experts like you. You already have all the necessary tools. Thank for posting the great videos!!!
Awsome to see a video where you don't use plasti guage, I'm a fabricator I feel everything should be done by true measure especially on a motor. Nice work!
THX
This may be the best engine rebuild I have seen on youtube! GOOD FOR YOU!
THX !!
Do you have a block painting video? I know it's probably straight forward, but I'd benefit from seeing the prep work.
Ur right I like the style ring compressors ur using. That's they way to go.
You are very good in presenting this. I used to have a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4,0 Limited. The engine never failed even after 300 000 km. Just crank position sensor. A very good engines. Now I have a 4,7 WJ. And the valve seat dropped destroying whole engine. The repair cost was estimated much too much. So I am swapping a 4,7 Ho instead. But here in Poland we use LPG a lot. This gives you a little higher temperatures of combustion. So already hot running jeep gets even more heat and the valve seats are dropping. Do you have any patent to make it running a few degrees colder?
Jeep 6 cylinder engines are a 7 main bearing engine, they are extremely durable, designed for truck use, there intention was never to break land speed records, but to operate at load at low to medium rpms for extended periods of time, is off road to your favourite fishing hole in 4 x 4 in low range, they are still the best gas engines for this purpose, if that was the intent of the owner the components as stock replacement are truly the perfect choice. If competition use is intended then changes should be made for that. I am 57 my first excursion in a jeep was well before school age, and have a 78 cj in my driveway now, have no fears your good.
I agree completely I have owned my share of jeep's and this is by far the best Engine they ever produced
I don't think people who are not familiar with these engines understand just how good these 4.0's are.
they really are in the legendary category as far as engines go,
I put the 4.0 in my personal top 5 best engines ever made
My family has owned Willys-Overland cars and trucks since the early 1920's up until AMC got ahold of their product line. I agree that the 4.0 is the best BIG engine ever used in a Jeep, or Willys, but the 162 cu. inch F-head Hurricane Six, 134 F-head four were very tough long life engines.
Sorry I am late in the game but why are not honing the cylinders? Love the videos!
I love seeing you build the Jeep 4.0 six. Thanks for documenting it for others to benefit from.
Any chance that you would consider building an AMC 360 or 401 V8? A lot of old AMC era Jeeps still running those motors.
Another great video. Never seen that paper towel trick.
That ring compressor is awesome!
Great vid, thanks for sharing your knowledge. God bless you and best wishes on everything you do!
Thanks
Them 4.0 straight 6 motors r tuff good motors.
exelente tu trabajo cuantas libras las bielas ?
sorry I have another question about the 305 GMC 6cylinder. do you think they would handle boost OK ? I been thinking about keeping it a vehicle. and adding a turbo. 5-10 psi. And inter cool it. use it for toeing . like in a 1 ton 57 Chevy Holmes wrecker. it has a 350 in it now. but a turb'd retro GMC 6 would be awesome. if it would perform like the stock early 70's 350. or I was thinking about a 421 Pontiac engine. I'd like it to be different. and keep up with modern traffic! it has a 4 speed with PTO. for the winch works. it even has the original 18" wheels. they look nice . finding tires is another thing. they are maybe 7.00 18" they are out there . but are costly. it would be nice if the centers could be put in modern 20" or 22" dually rims. but that's costly also. so maybe retro fitting newer F-450-550 say it ain't so ford wheels on a Chevy. but that's the only low profile dually tires I have seen. maybe 20" rims. they would look so good on a old truck. I do have a 454 from a RV. in a half ton truck. I could put in the old truck. and maybe the headers will fit. just asking your opinion.. any 250 Chevy engines or late 60's GMC 6 i6 coming up? maybe some hot rodding of said i6's I have seen a 30's Chevy drag truck with a 6 cylinder. that is very fast. I like the LS engines but I'm not computer savvy. so I stick with carb'd engines. I like building performance engines. by using as much stock parts possible. mixing and matching. I do like aftermarket parts. but I like making it look stock! my firebird looked stock except for headers. and it was over 400 HP. it didn't sound stock though. great video. I like all the info you throw in there. thanks
I really just flat out enjoy this channel
I am a little disappointed that you didn't address ring end gaps or the type of aluminum the pistons are made of. Most new engines use hypereutectic alloy pistons with moly rings which is why they last 250K miles. Pistons should be purchased FIRST, then the bores matched to the pistons. Are new pistons larger and heavier than the OEMs? If so, you may need to ADD weight to the counterbalance throws in the crankshaft. Are the wrist pins 'full floating' or do the rods need to be heated to install wrist pins? How about orientation between pistons and rods, as some rods have an offset oiling hole at the top that needs to be oriented correctly on the directional piston. I weight-match my pistons, rods, then piston AND rod assemblies. No mention of crankshaft balancing, either. I do mine with the harmonic balancer and flex plate or flywheel on the crankshaft. You'll also need one assembled piston with bearings, bolts, nuts, wrist pin and keepers as an example for the crankshaft balancer.
Its great to see a 6 being rebuilt
Just watched this really helped me since im in the middle of i guess whats considered a partial rebuild. Number 1 piston head had a hole burned through the middle of it. Is it possible for me to use a piston head out of my other jeep engine?
Id just buy a new one they only cost like $15.00
If I wanted you to build me a 4.0 straight six how much would you charge rough estimate?????? I have a 2000 Cherokee and I'm abt 1500 miles from hitting 200,000 miles. I feel like the old engine is getting tired and either want to put a rebuilt 4.0 with either a turbo or supercharger or a 4bt or 6bt diesel in it. Was gonna do the work myself but I work for a shop that works on cdl type trucks and never really have time. So just curious on a price for a 4.0 i6 build
Did my 4.0 a while back. I would like to see you cover the mods. Like using an old AMC 258 crank and rods to make it a 4.2. I've seen them done up to 5.0 but wonder on durability of the block and reduced cyl thickness.
In some cases, a sonic tester is used in each cylinder bore to determine if there is enough iron for overboring. Sometimes the builder must reject several cores before finding one that can be bored to such an extreme.
You mentioned that the connecting rod side clearance (end play) should be between 10thousands and 20thousands. Does it mean: 0,0010 and 0,0020 inc.? Thank you!
0.010/0.020
Great video 👍 what about if you have more/less rod clearance ?
The ring compressor that you use in this video, I've never seen a non-adjustable ring compressor, did it come with the new rings from the ring manufacturer? I've only ever used an adjustable (band style) that requires something like a square allen style key to tighten.
It's made by total seal the adjustable style your refering to are junk
@@Myvintageiron7512 No argument there, but I've built many engines with that ring compressor tool.
@@projectbumblejeep4190 Oh me too, but after you use the fixed cone style you will throw it in the trash and never look back
love the info thank you def got urself a new subscriber keep it up the good work
Thank you very much for your reply!!
Just wondering about oil on the main cap bolt threads? Are the bolts going into blind holes? And if so, could too much oil cause a hydraulic effect and crack a block web? Thanks, I enjoy your videos.
im not sure...... but you sound correct
their are quite a few different things that can "hydro lock" and not go in fully, or break shit
idk if it would crack the block.....but it might prevent you from getting the proper torque on the bolt.....which will lead to the rod sawing the block in half, when the bearing goes
if it was my car.....id make sure the holes didnt have excessive amounts of oil in them
Yes too much oil can Hyd the hole but dry threads can cause incorrect torque value
Do you work alone ? Never seen anyone helping in your videos . I recently rebuilt a 4.0 in my machine shop that had busted a piston all to pieces , fairly common . I didn't install the intake manifold or ever have it in my shop . The customer completed that part of the assembly . When he cranked the engine there were small pieces of piston and rings in the intake . Guess what happened ? They got in the cylinders and damaged the brand new pistons . Engine had to come back out and be repaired a second time . This is a common issue on several different engines . We try to let our customers know if their engine has had a busted piston or dropped valve seat to clean or replace their intake system . Some engines 3.7 , 4.7 or 5.7 Chryslers drop seats and there is no way to clean out the plastic intake manifolds .
Really like watching your videos , like seeing folks do what I do .
I do all the video work alone I do have some help with some of the machining I have a guy that does behind the scenes stuff
Jeeps 4.0 always had rotating valves, and when they don't rotate there's a problem, what can counter this problem?
do you think is possible to remove the jeep xj engine from the bay by parts? i remove the head, now i would like to remove cranckshaft, and pistons with rods, then remove the cylinder from the bay . this si because i dont have a crane to remove all engine together
just rent a hoist man
Did I miss it or did you already oil the wrist pin on those pistons?
you sure about piston to bore clearence? 2500 thou is on the tight end, cast and fordged expand at different rates.
Your videos are fun and informative. What's going on with that 390fe you was working on
The FE is next
What would you have done if any of your oil clearances weren’t good?
you need to either use different bearings or regrind the crankshaft
@@Myvintageiron7512 thank you!
Where is part 1? Do you have a link?
Did you forget or rubber gloves on the oiling of the bearing. X Drag racer
I have made a mistakes.
When do you think you will post the next part of the build?
soon we are working on it
I was under the impression that these engines did not stand up. Looks like this one will!
WUT!
4.0 jeep engines can take some abuse man!
if ya want a car that can deal with no oil changes.....people who dont know how to do ANY sort of maintenance.....the types that drive with the engine making all sorts of BAD noises...
4.0 jeep all the way
im a huge fan of the buick 3.8 v6......but they need some preventive maintenance (oil changes ON TIME.....replacing the lower intake gaskets to ones that dont get ate by GMs own dex-cool antifreeze)
but i still have huge respect for the 4.0 l6
Man, these engines are legendary
The 4.0 is one of the strongest inline 6 bangers you can build
I do agree that the 4.0 is a tough engine. The worst thing I found was Jeeps valve cover vacuum lines would plug up with oil and even gum up the throttle body. I tore all the tubes off and just put a breather in the cover which fixed most of the issues.
Thanks for the unbiased and accurate info. My friend bought one for his wife and she always had trouble with it. Upon questioning, I discovered that she never had the oil changed or serviced the vehicle, unles it stopped running!
Some say bearing notches go to same side but on the other side of bolt, while say they go on opposite side of the block. Varies by engine I suppose. I will drop my pan and hope I can find out which way rod caps go! Geeeer.
great videos will you consider doing a LA B RB mopar engine also ive herd to never tap a piston to get it in its better to try to slide it in
sure Id do a LA mopar who ever told you not to tap the pistons into the bore is wrong
Thanks for the post
kinda like damaging the ring lands if you strike them in too hard ive always herd old timers to side them in probably too over cautious trying not to scratch cylinder walls whist driving the pistons down into the bores and little rubber hoses over the connecting rod studs to protect the cylinder walls love your videos btw
Should have stuffed a 258 crank in it with a decent cam. You could have added 100 ft lbs for pennys......There is nothing more fun than blowing the doors off of V8 swapped jeeps with an inline 6. You may want to mic your lifters. Crower and mopar are the only ones for the jeep 4.0 that I have found to be the correct size.
O you can bet we will mic em good call thanks
Wd-40 is oil based and is meant to lube even at higher temperatures.
Great instructional video
Great video.
I need to aske you about but the head of 4.0l on the block of 4.2 can I do that
Where in Arizona is your shop. I have a 4.0 I would like you to rebuild. Thanks
message me on Facebook at myvintageiron7512
What happened to the LS? You tore it apart and left
Great video!😀 So easy
Your to faraway to teach shop so your videos r the next best thing.
Did u put oil on the rod bearings?
yep
is your shop in az .... great videos
Yes AZ
where in Arizona
What do you do if any of the clearances are wrong?
change bearings or grind the crank
How good an reliable is a Chevy 250 i6
As good as anything else if you maintain it. Had 2 of them. 71 Nova 3spd and 72 Firebird auto. Great little engines. Gas mileage is not as good as you'd think though. Rochester Monojet carbs not the best but they worked. But I was a kid then drove everything like I stole it.
I had one in a 78 Z28. It did very well, insane gas mileage, abused like hell for years in the desert, I tried to blow it up driving 115 in 3rd with low oil and coolant with the temp light on and it still wouldn't die. Drove 250 miles to California even after all that. I6 250 paired with a turbo 350 .The car overheated about 20 times (no joke) before the head cracked. The only time it stopped running is when I took it apart. Super easy to work on and cheap parts. I really miss that car.
good content I've subscribed
Don't wanna put it in dry........ that's what she said!
Very interesting
Where is ur shop located?
Phoenix
im about to do this. Bought a 2002 wj cherokee with 113k miles but the bitch never changed the oil!
Get an engine stand hippie
richieb74 not everyone has a rich dad
This video series seems really rushed, or a bit sloppy for what I was used to. Hope things pick back up.
It's hard to make everyone happy when I get more detailed I get viewers telling me it's to long and boring I assure there is nothing rushed about this I said it several times during these vid's that I did allot of stuff off camera how fast or slow a video goes is all about editing. I am interested to know what about this you think is sloppy?
Dude! Just got back online and found this comment to my comment. I am truly sorry if my comment came across as a indictment of your work. You usually have a "flow" to the videos you post (and I'm sure the folks who say you go into too much detail find the details boring and of no use- pay no attention to them). Just keep doing what you do. What I thought was "sloppy" was the rushed feel of the video and the lack of your normal detailed explanation. (I also can't find the previous video you referenced about how this build came to be). To be clear, there's nothing sloppy about your work. Maybe that word was not needed when I already used the term rushed. Thank you for asking for clarification, it helped me understand my comment a bit more. And thank you for the the great videos, I always look forward to them.
Yawn.... Where's the vintage iron?
oh come on now these engines are really beasty and have been around since the 80's
I know, I had a Comanche p/u could not drive in the rain. I'm a sbc guy, but, the best video on engines was the one where you showed the difference with Ford 351 w, the cleveland heads, modified, fe, and what was interchangeable. I need to watch that again because when I get around some blue oval guys I don't like that lost feeling....old V8s are everything to some of us older guys.....so thanks.