Ford Fusion, MKZ, Zephyr, Milan, Mazda 6 - Front Hub & Wheel Bearing Replacement
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- Опубліковано 8 жов 2019
- This video will show you how to replace the front wheel hub and bearing on a 2008 Ford Fusion. The wheel bearing is recessed and pressed fitted into the steering knuckle and the wheel hub pressed into the inner race of the wheel bearing. The wheel hub and bearing kit used in this video consists of a new: Hub, Bearing, Retaining Ring, and Axle Nut. The kit used in this video can be applied to a 06' - 12' Ford Fusion, 07' - 12' Lincoln MKZ & Zephyr, 06' - 11' Mercury Milan and 03' - 08' Mazda 6. To perform this job, you will need: 1. High torque impact tool with a 32 mm 6 point socket 2. Wheel Bearing Service Kit. 3. Slide hammer with a hub adapter. 4. Snap ring pliers to compress a snap ring. 5. Torque wrench rated to 180 lbs.
If you'd like to make a donation to the channel, please follow the link below: paypal.me/HardlyMoving?locale...
Parts & Specialty Tools:
Portable FWD Wheel Hub & Bearing Service Kit
amzn.to/46bZ1U5
Timken HA590533 Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly
(Fits: 06-12 Ford Fusion, 07-12 Lincoln MKZ & Zephyr, 03-08 Mazda 6 & 06-11 Mercury Milan)
amzn.to/329E8ab
DEWALT 1/2" Drive Impact Socket Deep 6PT 32MM
amzn.to/2VALOA8
Front Wheel Bearing Adapter Puller Kit W/Grade 8 Drive Bolt
amzn.to/2Uvstio
Slide Hammer Puller Set:
amzn.to/2FazwI6
Channellock 927 8-Inch Retaining Ring Plier:
amzn.to/2JpK3TI
Milwaukee 2767-22 Fuel High Torque 1/2" Impact Wrench w/ Friction Ring Kit (This is the super high torque impact tool that generates over 1400 lbs of nut busting torque! A lot more than the one used in this video!)
amzn.to/2MzfKIW
Milwaukee 2767-20 M18 Fuel High Torque 1/2-Inch Impact Wrench with Friction Ring (if you have M18 battery packs - bare tool - no battery)
amzn.to/35kOBS9
Powered Impact Tool (not the one I used, but less expensive quality corded version):
amzn.to/2F57ldk
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Short and straight forward no B.S. chatter just specified special tools and procedures.. Only video I can bear to watch more than once. Thank You Sir!
Hey ... glad you liked it! Short and sweet with no B.S. ... we're both on the same wave length! Thanks for your post!
I almost bought the assembled steering arm with the bearing and hub installed. I watched your video and did it your way. Now I own the tools to do this again for the same money the assembly would have cost me. Thank you. No fluff, just a straight forward solution.
Glad it worked out for you! Here's another way of doing the job if interested: ua-cam.com/video/1YXzlwpAbdQ/v-deo.html
No alignment needed doing it your way! Excellent work thank you.
Glad it helped!
If you’ve done this job, as I have- with only a long breaker bar; I cannot explain or emphasize enough- the power that impact gun is putting out pulling and pushing that hub/bearing in/out. Took me at least 30 mins for each push/pull with a breaker bar and still jumping on it repeatedly with all my 165lbs of weight. This man is a God. This is NOT an easy job.
Thanks for sharing!
Excellent video. Clearly explained, good camera angle and fast forwarding through the screwing of parts. So very nice, thank you!
Thanks!
I agree it makes it easier to learn he’s a good teacher.
Love Your videos! Thank You! Keep them coming!
Another wonderful tutorial.
I watched in amazement at how easy you made this job look, especially with my recalling how difficult it was to do on my wife's 2006 Solara. I have and used the same Astro Pneumatic Adapter/Puller Kit, along with my trusty Ingersoll Rand TN 37188. But I had a devil of a time, and even kicked up the inlet pressure to the tool to 130 psi and still struggled. This made me do some research on that TN 37188 and I find out that it's rated at 600 ft-lbs of torque (100 psi inlet pressure). The DeWalt corded model you referenced, while considerably cheaper, is only rated for 345 ft-lbs. When I read the details on the M18 Milwaukee, and saw that it has up to 1,400 ft-lbs of "nut busting torque", I was dumbstruck. I didn't know that such high capacities even existed.
Granted, my TN 37188 was the highest rated pneumatic 20-years ago when I purchased it, but there's simply no comparison between the 1,400 ft-lbs of the Milwaukee and the 600 from the Ingersoll or even 345 from the DeWalt.
Based on my experience and what I saw in this video, if you don't have a Milwaukee M18 Fuel Impact, you may spend an entire day vs. what could otherwise have taken less than 2-hours. So if you don't have the M19 Fuel Impact, see about purchasing one or renting one; you'll be very glad you did.
Christmas present for this year has been selected!
Thanks Again.
Thanks for your comments! That Milwaukee is a heck of a nut bustn' tool! If you not careful, it can shear off a 19mm stud in no time. The way they designed it, the torque increases the longer you hold on to the trigger. So I'm quick to back off the trigger when I think I've torqued something enough. Total time to do this job ... around an hour.
@@hardlymovingpro That's just incredible! Thanks again.
I will now do this repair on my car myself …after watching your video! Thank you!!!
Glad it helped and good luck with the repair!
Great video! Thanks for the step-by-step. Will be saving me hundred on my bearing replacements!
Glad to help!
Awesome video, you saved me a ton of money and it didn't take as long as I thought.
Glad it helped!
Love how you just get in there and dont take continuous breaks. Aside from the film and editing part.
You're right. It wasn't a big enough job to take a break. This job took under a hour. Things go fast if you've got the right tools. The snap ring was the only thing that slowed things down a little.
Thorough video. I have confidence I can do this.
Go for it and good luck!
Thanks! Just got the bearing its only $50 each..and bought those puller and tool using your links👍
Excellent!
Thank you love to see more video from you.
Thanks. Working a big 1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT make over! They'll be a lot of videos!
I watched all your bearing n hub videos lol. Man you are on the roll!
Glad you like them!
Wery simpl and clean. Best wideo a ever seen. Thank you sir I'm going to do it myself. Please keep make more wideos. You are the hero helping people save money bike time. George
I appreciate that!
You go into great detail everything your doing which helps everyone understand easier what your doing you could be a auto tech teacher. Thanks for your video.
Glad you found it useful!
Awesome video, now I can do the same to my 2008 MKZ both sides, thank you!!
By the way pep boys wanted to charge me $800. To replace this (bearings & hub) .... I'll be doing it myself!!
Good for you and good luck!
Best video I’ve seen so far.
Thanks for your comment and support!
Great video man really helped out a lot👍
You bet!
This guy explains it all without "influencer" fluff.. I will probably buy the assembly but this is great info.
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for this video! He makes it look so easy haha
It's easy after you've done a few replacement jobs. Muscle memory.
What cool tools you have!
Accumulated or acquired as the need presented itself as time went on.
Thank you sir! You are a legend!
You're welcome!
Cheers! Thanks for the info!
You bet!
Sen bir KRALSIN👍👍
Thank you so much for the step-by-step tutorial. My old ride is a 03 MPV, I think its front wheel bearing hub should be very similar.
You're right. Should be similar.
However I will damn sure do the repair myself after watching your video it's not as bad as I thought, thank you sir....
You bet and good luck!
Future reference. Use grese to slide it in. It saves it from great messed up
Also you can freeze the bearing before installation.
Thank you for great video. I'm going to doit myself.
Good for you and good luck!
Nice job 👍
Thanks ... appreciate your comment!
You are great, just awesome!!
Thanks for your support!
You are the man!
Thanks!
Great video, dude...I like how you are explanatory, cuz that's how MY brain works too! And it's easy for anyone to undert
Glad you found the video useful!
Hey man...got a question, do you know where I can certainly rent the bearing pull kit? I got a hub off with slide hammer, and it pulled the inner race with it, which is another problem, but now I can't get the outer race out...the slide hammer didn't budge it, so my car is stuck up on stands.
@@charleston_brad9446 Don't know of any retail parts vendors that rents them out. The outer race IS the bear. Also pushing the new one in is slightly less hard. Without a kit and an impact tool, you're up the creek without a paddle. Amazon and Ebay sell the bearing kit for around $70.
Good job man 👍🏻
Thanks for the visit!
You know your shiat, well done video
Thanks!
Thanks
Thank you share clip
You bet!
Thank you I watch this video to see how to pull the CV axle you help me out a lot thanks
Glad it worked out for you.
👍🙏😇
Good video! 😎👌🏻
Thanks! 😁
Good !
I just rented this bearing kit last night to do my bearing and I hope it all goes well when I go for it at 2oclock lol
Also get the hub puller tool.
@@hardlymovingpro hub came off just like yours and the bearing fell apart out from the knuckle I got everything off just gotta put new spindle and bearing in
Im going to buy this exact same milwakee impact bc of this.
It's a great tool
Awesome video and thanks for the tool measurements. Why didnt you replace the cv axle? It looked like a torn boot,?
I did ... after I first replaced the bearing and received the customer's permission to replace it.
This video just proved to me what really holds that Hub on.. The Axle and nut...
Actually it's the inner races of the bearing.
@@hardlymovingpro The way that hub just fell out..Has to be the Axle and nut..As I never seen a hub just fall out..
But yeah.. You would think the press fit and snap ring is what holds it..
You made this look pretty easy. I’m just wondering if it would be a lot more difficult if the bearing isn’t quite as worn. I have a 2010 Fusion with 120K that appears to have a bad left front bearing. I got a quote of $500-$600 to replace. Dealer wanted more.
The hardest part is squeezing out the outer race of the wheel bearing out of the steering knuckle. It's the bearings and inner race that was messed up in this video. Here's what you need: 1. High torque impact tool. Minimum 300 + lbs of torque. The one I used was electric 18v with over 1,200. 2. Slide hammer kit. You can rent it for free at Autozone or Oreilley's. 3. Bearing and hub press tool kit. Around $80 or so on-line like the one I used in the video.
If you don't want to get a impact tool and press kit, just take the knuckle off and bring it to a machine shop to press out the old hub and bearing and press in a new one. I'd guess they'd charge around $80 or less for labor. You can also buy a stand up hydraulic press from Harbor Freight for around $100 but you still need a press tool kit.
I'm just impressed how strong Milwaukee 1/2 impact gun performed......
So far had it for a couple of years and it hasn't missed a beat! I use my standard M18 battery packs from my other Milwaukee tools and there's no need to upgrade to the expensive high amp batteries for this high torque 1/2 driver. I'd say this tool produces more torque then some expensive air power tools. Extremely happy using this tool. Little on the heavy side though.
I like how you work outside and don’t have a fancy shop. Thats how I do it also. I don’t do it for a living, but I enjoy working on my cars whenever I have to. Great video as usual. Why don’t you ever show you r face?
Thanks for you comment. I work outside and without a lift to show that the job can be done by guys like you. I don't show my face because the video is not about me but about the job.
Is there a difference between an AWD and FWD (Fusion or MKZ) front bearing assembly? I'm considering getting a pre-pressed knuckle assembly for my 2010 MKZ, but can't find any info about differences for the AWD version I have. Thanks!
I'll assume that there's not much difference. Just look at the replacement parts between them to figure it out.
With the right tools, there's no job that can't be done. 😊
Yes. As long as you know what you're doing and have a plan.
I have two questions. One, the adapter sat on top the bearing perfectly then after extraction the adapter looked recessed into the bearing , is that correct ? There seems to be a lip on the back of struct to stop bearing from going out
The center portion of the adapter has a round protrusion to help keep it centered (recessed) onto inner bearing's race. The bearing hole on the steering knuckle does have a inside lip to prevent the bearing from coming out. That's why I had to use a smaller adapter (one that's not the same diameter of the new bearing) to pull the old bearing out. It's important that the new bearing (during installation) is pressed against this inner lip; otherwise you cannot install the snap ring on the outer portion of the bearing hole that prevents the bearing from moving to the outside. Hope this helps.
I have a Fusion V6 in Europe and parts are hard to get bc they never sold here. I thought my rotors were warped, but the hubs are warped. They sold the Mazda 6 out here and now I’m trying to find out if the hubs of a Mazda 6 3.0 wil fit my Fusion 3.0
Go to rockauto.com and do a parts look up on both the Ford and Mazda. When you click on the part number, a pull down screen will appear showing other vehicles the part is compatible with.
Did you press hub in using adaptor small enough to go against inner race or big enough against outer race. I think the right thing is pressing hub against inner race. But not entirely sure.
Cover over the outer race ... Otherwise the inner will pop out during the hub seating / pressing process.
another question is unscrewing the steering knuckle a must to just change out the rotor hub? can’t you just slide the new one in after the old is taken out??
If you can get you hands on one cheap.
Gotta do the other side now and I don’t remember, can you provide the large socket sizes needed? Axle nut, nuts for the puller took? Thx.
Could be either 30, 32 or 34 mm.
👍
Thanks!
I was wondering where did you get the bearing puller kit from and or what's the part number?
I provided a link in the "show more" text description of this video.
I got a Fusion an lately I have noticed a huge increase in road noise, I am about 7 k miles into some all season cooper tires just had a rotation done, an I swear the road noise on good pavement is like non exsistant, now when I hit other roads that are like older an not new within say a year, omg its bad so much noise I think its the tires or wheel bearings just not sure, I just changed the brake pads to powerstop ones an they are great so far way better stopping power, but I just noticing this road noise an wasnt sure if it was the cooper tires or the wheel bearings or my struts are toast, I cant see why my struts would be toast at 60k miles but we took care of this fusion good so far, an 29 mpg for the last few years, just did new plugs, a filter a while back, I have other cars an the road noise is nothing like this.
Above 40 mph, swerve your car to the left and right. If the front end noise goes up, its you bearings(s). Left swerve to test right bearing and visa versa.
Do I have to get the whole hub assembly or can I just replace the actual wheel bearing and use the same spindle? The auto store said I'm wasting money buying the whole assembly. 2010 Fusion Fwd.
You might be able to buy the whole assembly (i.e. knuckle, hub and bearing) on rockauto.com for under $200
Would a 450lb torque impact gun be enough torque to remove the bearing with the kit?
Yrs ... That should be adequate
Great video. Not as convoluted as most others.
I could use some help though.
2008 Ford Fusion. I have one lug nut bolt hole that was stripped out. Is it possible to just remove and replace the hub without replacing bearings. Or should i just do both. Thanks for any info.
Thanks! You can press out and replace the lug stud with a new one without removing the hub.
@@hardlymovingpro 1st: thank you for responding.
2nd: Sorry, but i wasn't clear on my part.
The hole on the hub that the lug stud goes into no longer has the grooves for a stud to fit into.
So can i remove the hub without having to replace the bearings, or would removing the hub mess somthing up to where i would have to replace bearings anyway. Thanks again.
@@cosesu8929 the grooves or splines should be part of the new lug - not the hub hole.
@@hardlymovingpro ok thank you. I was probably making it more complicated than it needed to be. Have a great day
You can pull the new lug in by placing a 1/2" spacer between the lug nut and hub. As you torque down the lug nut, the new lug will get pulled into the hub.
Nice video.You must be working on a different car.The Snap ring is in the front of the knuckle where the hub is placed.Are’nt there knuckles with the Snap ring on the opposite side of the hub?Other videos I have seen show this.
Thanks. You are correct if working on a Toyota for example. Recently published a video doing the same repair on a Camry.
Hey do we need to put any grease on the outside of the bearing when pushing it in?
Nope. They come pre-lubed.
Omg. Doing this on my 07 fusion is gonna be expensive and a pain in my ass.
Very good video though!
Thanks! With the right tools, job is not too bad.
Where could I rent a press kit like the one you used
I've looked but the retail auto parts stores that rent tools do not have this specialty tool set. If you buy one, they're generally not that expensive (under $80) compared to repair quotes I've seen from some of these auto repair shops ($400 + !)
Does it matter which way the bearing goes in if it has ABS on a 2007 mkz? mine didn't come with instructions, Timken HA590533, they look the same on both sides but some cars have a magnetized side for the sensor
Don't know about the MKZ. But if magnetic, should be on the outside.
When you’re pushing g/pulling with your impact gun, do you have the upper control arm bolt attached or no? I’m guessing no with the clearance you have from the axle.
You're right. Upper arm is attached. After detaching the ball joint, the arm should have upward tension away from the steering knuckle.
I think you misunderstood my question. I did the first side with the upper control arm attached. But in your video, it looks like you have more clearance behind the bearing since the cv axle isn’t in the way. That’s why I asked. I was wondering if this job can be done with the upper control arm detached from the spindle. There’s more room this way if it’s possible.
Also, I do not disconnect the lower ball joints while doing this. I did buy the Milwaukee though so I hope it works like yours. I got the “A” model.
Can you please verify that you DID have the upper control arm bolt out while pressing bearing & hub in? It appears you do since you put that bolt on afterwards. Thx
What would you recommend if the hub is seized to the cv axle?
Use a heavy hammer and punch and pound away. Or use an air powered or electric jack hammer.
Great video, would a 2008 mkz be the same? Thanks
It should.
Yes I just bought my wife a 08 mkz yesterday. Needed hub bearings and rotors on front. I went to harbor freight bought the slide hammer tool, and bearing puller and installer. Paid $250 for tools and $$230 on parts. Also used my roofing compressor that only gets up to 150 psi. With my buddies snap on impact. Everything went smooth tho. I'm definitely mechanically inclined as it's a side hustle when I'm not running my little construction company, plus i can do my own work on my own vehicle, but this video was great very formal. NICE JOB BROTHER!!! AGAIN GREAT VIDEO.
Thanks for this, I did have to buy a high torque drill but I still saved money over a repair shop on my 2012 MKZ and will only cost me the part if I have to do the other side now!
Yes... The tool pays for itself!
Were you able to get the bearing out ok using the high torque drill and bearing adapter kit? On some other Fusion bearing videos some commented that a shop press would be required to get the bearing out of the knuckle. I have Porter Cable corded impact wrench with 450 ft lbs of torque.
You impact tool should suffice. I'll be putting out a video soon using the press adapters with a portable hydraulic pulling pump. Got it to work on FWD Camry. No impact tool needed.
No problem getting the bearing out and in with my Milwaukee M18 high torque impact.
The high torque drill worked great for me as well, though I got a Kobalt rated somewhere around 1100-1200 ft lbs if I remember correctly.
Do you have to get a new hub? Or can I just buy the new bearing and install in the existing hub?
In the video the hub was worn out (inner race sliding on the hub). Otherwise the old hub can be reused.
Is your press kit a certain brand? Im looking for one but gave only seen with fewer pieces.
Nothing really special about a wheel bearing press kit. They all pretty much come standard with different sized adapters to accommodate different sized bearings.
Hardly Moving Productions thanks.
What symptoms were you having prior to you knowing it was a wheel bearing? Any codes or MIL turn on?
High pitch whine as you increase speed ... more noticeable when changing lanes. No MIL codes with this problem.
Thank you for the quick response.
You bet!
How can I remove the bearing if I don't have a ring that can fit from the backside and not move to pull the bearing out?
Maybe this video can help you out. Same concept: ua-cam.com/video/BW-yWLvIflU/v-deo.html
waa there a gap between where the axle meets the back of the knuckle?
The axle is stopped by going any further into the knuckle when it butts up against the wheel hub (which is pressed into the inner wheel bearing race).
How did you Torque the axle nut without being under the weight of the vehicle ?
Place something like a crow bar between the hub studs and the ground. That'll prevent the hub from turning while torquing down the axle nut.
10:16 what’s the name of the tools you used in the back of the hub to make it get closer?
FWD hub and wheel bearing service kit. Link is provided in the video description or click here: amzn.to/46bZ1U5
@@hardlymovingpro thanks
Looks like we have the same kit but none of my adapters fit in the back to press old race out they just fall right through
One of them should fit if it's a good kit.
I am having the same issue. I think maybe from the bearings being so far gone that the lip is worn down that the adapter can't catch it
What state you in bc I gotta do this in iowa, you in the rust belt?
East of Memphis, TN.
Never torque axle nut without either wheel on ground or holding hub in place. Too much pressure on transmission and CV axle. Not good.
What's the pressure on a transmission and cv axle with a vehicle parked on a steep angled hill in park?
Hardly Moving Productions
The other end of that axle is in your thransmission and you are turning that against the parking gear. Too much pressure for that. Put on tire and lower vehicle to finish the torque process. You can also put on 2 lug nuts and put a crowbar against ground and in between the 2 studs to keep this pressure off your transmission gears. Look it up and you will see that it is standard process not to torque against your transmission.
That upper ball joint in your upper control arm has too much play. That needs replaced also. You can press many of them out will special tool. Not sure about your model.
Perhaps but the customer is tight on cash.
Hardly Moving Productions
This response is in our, and the correct procedures favor. If you torque this against the transmission gears you will cost the owner possibly a new transmission or a rebuild. Saving the owner money is holding the hub or putting the car down on the wheel and ground before putting 30+ lbs of torque on these gears. Many of these axle nuts are in the range of 150+ ft lbs. same philosophy is when you change an inner tie rod. You should never loosen or tighten an inner tie rod against a power steering rack. You should hold the rack with a wrench as to not ruin inner seals and shaft. Many manufacturers make slots on rack to hold in place. Sorry for this back and forth but when you are making these repair videos for the world to see, make sure you do it right.
Is there no seals on either side of the bearing/hub?
Not on these cars.
Ok, so I drove the hub into the bearing.... but didn't use the adapter that fit tight against the bearing in the inside. I used the same adapter that I had used to get the bearing installed. I then tried to get the half shaft into the hub and tighten down/seat the hub using the nut but can't get the shaft far enough in for threads to show. Also can't remove shaft. And now the thing seems like it's wobbling a lot. Did I damage the new bearing upon install? It's really starting to p@#$ me off! Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I would assume the wobbling would be the result of the hub not being fully recessed in the inner bearing race and not in fully contact the outer cv axle.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks for your speedy reply (given the platform).
I wasn't sure and I couldn't risk waiting so I just bought another bearing. Friday evening, most of yesterday and now an hour this morning and I'm almost done with the hub/bearing replacement..... now to put new brake parts on (familiar with this part). Seems I had just about everything that could delay me pop up. Now I don't have a torque wrench that goes over 150 so I'm just going to go to there and then add a bit. Tired of running 40 miles round trip to get more tools/parts....
Thanks again for the response and your video.
@@mikeb8342 You can wing/guess the high toque using a long breaker bar.
Does this kit only come with 1 wheel bearing?
Yes but also with a new hub to press into the inner race of the bearing. I use to buy only the bearing and press in the old hub. But I've found hubs aren't that expensive and some hubs are too worn out to be reused (that is, the hub shaft can no longer be tightly fit into the inner race).
What brand bearing pulling kit did you use ?
Nothing particular. Check out my recommendations in this video's description.
Whats that noise hun?? Hell idk just turn the radio up!!! 😆😆😂😂😂
We have been trying to replace the ft pas side wheel bearing on a 2015 lincoln MKC awd,and the new bearing seams to large to be pressed back in the same od has been shown at three different parts store whats up?
Have had a similar problem on a BMW. You need a dial caliper to measure the bearing diameter with another replacement bearing and note any differences.
Done that and need to get the outer race out to measure that. Been to at least 4 parts stores of three different brands and their books all call for the same bearing. Any chance the knuckel was a leftover and just thrown on to make day's quota?
You can try freezing the bearing before installation.
My new bearing and hub have been in my deep freeze for 3 months shrinking while I procrastinate doing the other side of my daughter’s Milan.😁
Don’t forget to add a little bit grease, think so
Can I just replace the bearing and use the same spindle?
I'm assuming what you call the "spindle" is the wheel hub. If so, you'll have to remove the stuck inner race that comes off when you remove the hub. Here's the link on how to remove it: ua-cam.com/video/I4P3T-cb7rg/v-deo.html
How long did this take you to do?
With the tools used in this video, around 1 hour.
My wife is telling me the bairing is magnetic on one side . Something about the wheel speed sensor. If that's true the magnetic side should be facing towards the block. And if that's true then I messed up.
I think she's right assuming the sensor is closer to the block.
You didn’t clean or lubricate anything. Just wham, bam, thank you mam!
New wheel bearings come prelubed.
I really wish I found this video before I spent hours removing the entire knuckle with basic hand tools. Not recommended haha
Well there's the other side.
👍 good for you!
@@hardlymovingpro and I o
Tell me about it I did the same thing and had to replace all the control arms
my bearing is not coming out
You don't have to pop the ball joints?
Only the top ones.
@@hardlymovingpro man, why have I been hacking away at getting the lower ball joints out when I just could have done what you did
@@thenet9537 live and learn as others would say.
@@hardlymovingpro do you need an alignment after this?
I'm over here prying I don't need a slide hammer. 🥴 spent all my money on the part
You can rent a slide hammer for free at most retail auto parts stores.
@Hardly Moving Productions mine charge the card, and refunds it. I don't have enough to cover it or I would!
Nice video , thanks. Use some gloves though. lol
Can't ... too much sweat in the Summer with heat and humidity.
Can't believe he destroyed the wheel bearing completely
Seeing is believing.
Lol fukn thats dude.ez job great video
Thanks!
Man my job was totally different.they rode the car so bad..half of the bearing broke off in there.the balls feel out on there own. Now I have to cut half of the Baron from out the Hub
@@Godbodyent. Sounds bad ... can't get the outer race out without cutting it?
Its crazy half of the outer still stuck to the back....the whole inside feel out.man its trash they need all the suspension parts to smh...
That rotor looks like poop they should've had u change the pads n rotors while you were at it.just my 2 cents not that it matters.good info on the video
I agree but the customer was only focused on the bearing noise.
You can see what hes doing for the printing on the screen