Yes, you are right. I found this out a little too late to be honest. At the moment I'm putting on a new speedo/tach and will redo the grounds at the same time. Thanks for watching. Steve
You could’ve grouped all the negatives together, or bused them to each other directly on the back of the switches, and then only had one ground wire to feed down the bars.
Yep that's what I have done, and when you are wiring one piece handle bars its a lot tougher than clip-ons so 22swg wire is essential. Great switches I love them.
@@paul4777 How did you do it, I would like to do the same. But I dont know how i should do it when you have to solder them on to the buttons, Motogadget mo.switch basic is with screws on the back off the buttons so it is easier. but they are just not as cool.
Just started building my 1975 cb750 brat / cafe ‘ using the motogadget munit blue and rebelmoto switches also ‘ great vid ‘ hello from Dublin Ireland 👍🏻👍🏻
@@cafechronicles have everything just waiting on my rearset and triple clamp and conversion stem from the lads in Cognito Moto I’m doing a gsxr 1000 fork conversion oh and my tuffside seat other than that the bike is ready to be painted and reassembled’ the rebelmoto switches look really well the extra wiring was worth the bling 👍🏻👍🏻💯💯🔥🔥
Haha yeah the bling is where it's at. Nice work, the Cogitomoto stuff is awesome, not cheap, but very good quality, I popped the rear sets on this build. The Gixer front end will be awesome, good on you for that. Are you replacing the original steering bearings in there? I've been using the tuffside seat now for a while, and I have to say, its very comfortable. Anyone that sees it, comments that it must not be comfortable as its so shallow, but the foam they use is excellent and it really is a comfy seat.
@@cafechronicles i got new steering bearings with the stem I also got a hub conversion to lace the original front wheel I wanted to keep the vintage look ‘ your right there not cheap but the quality of there products is unrivaled’ I was thinking of ordering the small honda seat as I wanted the minimalist look and was thinking the big style honda seat would be too bulky but u said it looks really shallow so I’m happy with that I was afraid it would look to bulky
Ah yeah it’s great stuff. Yeah I find the seat to be nice and slim. But I know what you mean about the short seat. I’m interested to see how it’ll look on your bike. Keep me posted 👍
Hi, Dou you know if it's possible to change the sequence of the buttons in case you want to put the red from the bottom to the top for example ? Great video!!!
Hi Joseph, thanks for watching. Good question. Using the original wiring harness, new aftermarket switches may be used. However, you have to be careful on which type you choose. The original wiring harness needs the switches to be a "toggle" style, meaning they switch on and make a constant connection between ground and positive, and then can switch off which breaks that contact. The likes of systems like the M.Unit need a "momentary contact" switch, which does not toggle to on or off, it simply momentarily connects and disconnects the ground and positive. So you will need to get the correct type for your application. Feel free to email me or message me on instagram if you need help. Good luck and happy building. Steve
Hey thanks for watching. These are momentary switches. Meaning they don’t stay on or off like a toggle switch. They will work anywhere an existing switch is momentarily creating a circuit. I have a feeling the the rebel uses a mix of momentary and toggle which would complicate things. However, it is always an option to rewire a motorcycle. You would use an m.unit and the new switches. However, I think it would be a costly exercise and would be time consuming. If you weren’t considering keeping the motorcycle long term, I wouldn’t recommend it. It may actually reduce the value of the bike. Where this setup suits really well, is for creating or updating the wiring on an old bike you are modifying or restoring. I hope that helps. Good luck 🍻
Awesome video. I’ve been looking for one like this. Thinking about redoing my chopper wiring. I’m just wondering if you could have used real thin wire for that part since it is just going to a micro control unit in the handle bar and the power for the lights and everything really come from the battery from the other side of the M unit. I might have to investigate that. That sure is a big bundle of wire. LOL. Thank you very much brother.
Hey Mike, I think you’re right about using a lighter gauge lol. I think if I was to do it again, I would use a lighter wire. I had purchased a wire bundle from Motogadget, which is good, but I ran out of the lighter gauge quickly. Also, I think I would solder one common ground to all buttons in the switch. I think I would pass on the LED switches too. But I’m delighted to hear you’re thinking of going for it. One thing I’ve been learning in this whole process, is that the hardest part is deciding to do it. Get stuck into it brother!
Just googled the reference and found a golf coach, same reference? I definitely have a handicap, but it's not golf related unfortunately. Thanks for watching, Steve
😂 I live and learn. You’re absolutely right. This build was a steep learning curve. I’m thinking of actually rewiring a little this winter. I also have a new speedo and will pop that on there. Thanks for watching 👍
“Surely there’s a way to do this thing that would defeat the whole purpose of the thing” The only reason to use these is to use these or solid state buttons is to control different things without changing the wiring. The reason they have four wires each is what allows them to function how you want them to function. I didn’t know people installed these not knowing that.
Hey Charlie, thanks for tuning in. There was no existing wiring harness on the CB750 unfortunately. It had been torn down and taken out. I had to make one from scratch.
Nah, it’s better to start over and just leave your ignition/ecu looms, because you don’t need most of the original wiring! If anything it’s more complicated to try to splice it in.
I dont know do you remember what gauge wire you used it looks kinda thick. I tried using 0.5 mm wire and all the wires just wont fit went onto the website the reccomend 0.22mm wire. So i have to undo the whole wiring set up for my handlebars unfortunately 😅 lessons were learned
Thanks for watching. I do have diagrams I can share, I'm guessing it's too late at this point. Sorry for the late reply. Let me know if you need any help. Steve
Hi Aaron. You need to provide a ground to two posts on the switch. One for LED and one for the momentary contact. However, a cleaner way to this would be if I had simply jumped the negatives together. I wanted to ensure each button was separate for troubleshooting in future. However, in doing so made a massive amount of wires 😂 I would probably do it differently if I did it again. All that being said, I’ve had no issues with electrical and all has been solid on the bike for a year. Thanks for tuning in 👍
@@cafechronicles hey bud - yes, I’ve got a CB750 1980 with the blue unit and 2 x Rebel motor LED switch. I’ll use the M-Button for the switch however for the ‘running LED lights’ where did you plug them into ? Also in the M-unit ? Cheers
Yeah it’s a pricy unit. You will be able to buy it locally in a England. I think it’s actually made in Germany. The website is motogadget.com/shop/en/electrics.html
There are two versions, the standard m.unit and the m.unit blue. The blue version gives you Bluetooth connectivity to your phone. Allows you to configure it by your phone and even use your phone as a keyless start/button start once your phone is in proximity of it. Is the bike your building wired and running already?
Hi Denis, thanks for watching, not sure what part you mean. The throttle assembly came from Dime City Cycles. If you give me more detail I can try to help.
I just finished wiring mine with 24. It would not have been possible for me at all with anything thicker because I used rising drag bar that is one piece unlike clip on. Keep good videos coming :)
Yeah I did. The same with the grounds. Email me at info@cafechronicles.ca and I’ll give you the details. I’ll share the diagram I worked from if it helps. 👍
SNAKES ALIVE … shut my gob! Really it’s a simple single cheap controller that the rats nest of wires attach to… about $2. As neat as this seems it introduces complications to the wiring beyond easily field diagnostics along the roadside, and it still needs ground and power wires… so it’s not one wire just the comm signal wire going to the M-gadget. The hassle of making a bundle of hidden switch wires to it and stashing that in the handle bars is just crude or more so than simply running a bundle of individual control wires direct from the switches … probably is easier… and it is still digital control with low power control wires. A neat bundle 12v low power 20-22-24 gauge wires has the advantage over the single 22 awg wire is some mechanical robustness and less electrical interference issues… and easier to put shielding sleeve over the bundle and make ground connection. NOW here’s an idea run the bundled cables to the m-Button using a nearby small connector or a terminal stop for the control switch wires connections then you have trouble shooting access to the switch wiring … this mounted next to the m-gadget… and m- button then that tiny fragile single wire is protected and you have much less complication and aggravation hiding all the mess of switch wires to m-button… As alternative do this near the handle bar but you still have a single fragile wire run… that you need to bundle like a loom and shielding protect.
@@cafechronicles I only used it to have the security, keyless start/stop, and the ability of using cell phone programming…. That’s a lot. Wiring the mechanical control wiring and switches I see no value in the M-unit… and it makes field trouble sorting not that great. Sometime I will do a wiring video.
I'm glad I watched this before I install mine.
Good luck 👍
You could've use one negative to all buttons and also one positive for all led lighting. 5 wires would work great for this installation 👍🏻
Yes, you are right. I found this out a little too late to be honest. At the moment I'm putting on a new speedo/tach and will redo the grounds at the same time. Thanks for watching. Steve
Where's the link to the m-unit and handlebar switches?
Thanks for watching. The rebelmoto switches can be found here: rebelmoto.com/product/rebel-switch-2-button-led-black/
That bike is awesome. It reminds me of the good all days. You did a fantastic video here and broke my fear from wiring my bike.
You could’ve grouped all the negatives together, or bused them to each other directly on the back of the switches, and then only had one ground wire to feed down the bars.
I think you’re right Johnathan. I think my next wiring job I will go that direction for sure.
Yep that's what I have done, and when you are wiring one piece handle bars its a lot tougher than clip-ons so 22swg wire is essential. Great switches I love them.
Great stuff Paul! 👍 shoot me an email with a photo. Would love to see how they look info@cafechronicles.ca
@@paul4777 How did you do it, I would like to do the same. But I dont know how i should do it when you have to solder them on to the buttons, Motogadget mo.switch basic is with screws on the back off the buttons so it is easier. but they are just not as cool.
Just started building my 1975 cb750 brat / cafe ‘ using the motogadget munit blue and rebelmoto switches also ‘ great vid ‘ hello from Dublin Ireland 👍🏻👍🏻
Amazing man, thanks for reaching out. What stage are you at?
@@cafechronicles have everything just waiting on my rearset and triple clamp and conversion stem from the lads in Cognito Moto I’m doing a gsxr 1000 fork conversion oh and my tuffside seat other than that the bike is ready to be painted and reassembled’ the rebelmoto switches look really well the extra wiring was worth the bling 👍🏻👍🏻💯💯🔥🔥
Haha yeah the bling is where it's at. Nice work, the Cogitomoto stuff is awesome, not cheap, but very good quality, I popped the rear sets on this build. The Gixer front end will be awesome, good on you for that. Are you replacing the original steering bearings in there? I've been using the tuffside seat now for a while, and I have to say, its very comfortable. Anyone that sees it, comments that it must not be comfortable as its so shallow, but the foam they use is excellent and it really is a comfy seat.
@@cafechronicles i got new steering bearings with the stem I also got a hub conversion to lace the original front wheel I wanted to keep the vintage look ‘ your right there not cheap but the quality of there products is unrivaled’ I was thinking of ordering the small honda seat as I wanted the minimalist look and was thinking the big style honda seat would be too bulky but u said it looks really shallow so I’m happy with that I was afraid it would look to bulky
Ah yeah it’s great stuff. Yeah I find the seat to be nice and slim. But I know what you mean about the short seat. I’m interested to see how it’ll look on your bike. Keep me posted 👍
How did you know what wore was ground and what did the button function for the non light post?
There are tiny symbols on the tabs. Let me know if you need any help. Sorry for the late reply. Steve
Hi, Dou you know if it's possible to change the sequence of the buttons in case you want to put the red from the bottom to the top for example ?
Great video!!!
Hey thanks for watching! Yes you can. They simply screw into place, so you can change the order. Happy building 👍
Question. Can the aftermarket switches be wired to the bikes oem switch gear loom . Very good video
Hi Joseph, thanks for watching. Good question. Using the original wiring harness, new aftermarket switches may be used. However, you have to be careful on which type you choose. The original wiring harness needs the switches to be a "toggle" style, meaning they switch on and make a constant connection between ground and positive, and then can switch off which breaks that contact. The likes of systems like the M.Unit need a "momentary contact" switch, which does not toggle to on or off, it simply momentarily connects and disconnects the ground and positive. So you will need to get the correct type for your application. Feel free to email me or message me on instagram if you need help. Good luck and happy building. Steve
Great video!
I would like to know if this kind of controls can be used on any type of motorcycle, for example (Honda Rebel 300 ABS)
Hey thanks for watching. These are momentary switches. Meaning they don’t stay on or off like a toggle switch. They will work anywhere an existing switch is momentarily creating a circuit. I have a feeling the the rebel uses a mix of momentary and toggle which would complicate things. However, it is always an option to rewire a motorcycle. You would use an m.unit and the new switches. However, I think it would be a costly exercise and would be time consuming. If you weren’t considering keeping the motorcycle long term, I wouldn’t recommend it. It may actually reduce the value of the bike. Where this setup suits really well, is for creating or updating the wiring on an old bike you are modifying or restoring. I hope that helps. Good luck 🍻
Awesome video. I’ve been looking for one like this. Thinking about redoing my chopper wiring. I’m just wondering if you could have used real thin wire for that part since it is just going to a micro control unit in the handle bar and the power for the lights and everything really come from the battery from the other side of the M unit. I might have to investigate that. That sure is a big bundle of wire. LOL. Thank you very much brother.
Hey Mike, I think you’re right about using a lighter gauge lol. I think if I was to do it again, I would use a lighter wire. I had purchased a wire bundle from Motogadget, which is good, but I ran out of the lighter gauge quickly. Also, I think I would solder one common ground to all buttons in the switch. I think I would pass on the LED switches too. But I’m delighted to hear you’re thinking of going for it. One thing I’ve been learning in this whole process, is that the hardest part is deciding to do it. Get stuck into it brother!
hi, what did you connect the clutch switch to?
Sensing a little Mark Crossfield with the ol “let’s get stuck in” 🤨👍🏼
Just googled the reference and found a golf coach, same reference? I definitely have a handicap, but it's not golf related unfortunately. Thanks for watching, Steve
Noice job
To be faire you were supposed to use 0.22m2 wires as recommended by RM : )
(Anything bigger makes it a nightmare to fit in the casing)
😂 I live and learn. You’re absolutely right. This build was a steep learning curve. I’m thinking of actually rewiring a little this winter. I also have a new speedo and will pop that on there. Thanks for watching 👍
I’ve you gonna rewire. Maybe connect all negative into a single wire?
“Surely there’s a way to do this thing that would defeat the whole purpose of the thing”
The only reason to use these is to use these or solid state buttons is to control different things without changing the wiring. The reason they have four wires each is what allows them to function how you want them to function. I didn’t know people installed these not knowing that.
Hey Charlie, thanks for tuning in. There was no existing wiring harness on the CB750 unfortunately. It had been torn down and taken out. I had to make one from scratch.
Nah, it’s better to start over and just leave your ignition/ecu looms, because you don’t need most of the original wiring! If anything it’s more complicated to try to splice it in.
I dont know do you remember what gauge wire you used it looks kinda thick. I tried using 0.5 mm wire and all the wires just wont fit went onto the website the reccomend 0.22mm wire. So i have to undo the whole wiring set up for my handlebars unfortunately 😅 lessons were learned
Aw man, it’s a long war. Some days we lose the battles 😂 but we’re headed in the right direction 👍 good luck 🍻
Hi, Going to build 79 cb750, hopefully your videos will help. thanks
Thanks for tuning in. They are an amazing bike. Good luck and happy building!
Great video!
Little question, how did you make the connection for the ignition and the starter?
Do you have a diagram or other?
Thanks for watching. I do have diagrams I can share, I'm guessing it's too late at this point. Sorry for the late reply. Let me know if you need any help. Steve
Hey, has anybody tried using small blade receptacles to connect the buttons? I am not that good at soldering unfortunately.
Send me a link of what you mean. Thanks, Steve
From where can I buy that type of switches set? please help me to find online. thanx
Hey there, you can find these switches from Rebelmoto. rebelmoto.com/product-category/switches/
@@cafechronicles thank you friend.
Can you use either terminal on the switch for the negative for the non-LED portion?
Hi Aaron. You need to provide a ground to two posts on the switch. One for LED and one for the momentary contact. However, a cleaner way to this would be if I had simply jumped the negatives together. I wanted to ensure each button was separate for troubleshooting in future. However, in doing so made a massive amount of wires 😂 I would probably do it differently if I did it again. All that being said, I’ve had no issues with electrical and all has been solid on the bike for a year. Thanks for tuning in 👍
Hey great video -
Do you mind explaining again where the RM switch led wires were connected ? For the constant ‘on’ function.
Cheers mate 🤘🏍
Hey thanks for watching. Do you mean for the led lights in the switches?
@@cafechronicles hey bud - yes, I’ve got a CB750 1980 with the blue unit and 2 x Rebel motor LED switch.
I’ll use the M-Button for the switch however for the ‘running LED lights’ where did you plug them into ? Also in the M-unit ?
Cheers
Shoot me an email at info@cafechronicles.ca and I’ll share the wiring diagram I used. 👍
Hey bud just git some of thus switch gear ,looks desent but didn't know about the m unit . Were did u buy plz ?
Cheers for the vud
I bought mine in Perth County Moto in Ontario. Good prices and good support. Where are you located?
@@cafechronicles im in dorset ,England . Looked online and is it realy 200 +?
Yeah it’s a pricy unit. You will be able to buy it locally in a England. I think it’s actually made in Germany. The website is motogadget.com/shop/en/electrics.html
There are two versions, the standard m.unit and the m.unit blue. The blue version gives you Bluetooth connectivity to your phone. Allows you to configure it by your phone and even use your phone as a keyless start/button start once your phone is in proximity of it. Is the bike your building wired and running already?
Hi were can I find the throttle you are using on your project please ???
Sorry for the late reply, I got it from Dime City
Where you have your gas handel from
Hi Denis, thanks for watching, not sure what part you mean. The throttle assembly came from Dime City Cycles. If you give me more detail I can try to help.
Looks like you used thicker gauge wires. I used 24 gauge and they were not as bad
Yeah I think I went a little heavy on those. I think you're right, 24 would have been perfect.
I just finished wiring mine with 24. It would not have been possible for me at all with anything thicker because I used rising drag bar that is one piece unlike clip on. Keep good videos coming :)
Awesome! And thanks 🙏
Where did you run the power for the button led's to on the m unit?
I believe I ran it from Aux 2 and then ensure you configure the output to always power up on start. Thanks for tuning in 👍
@@cafechronicles did you just tie all the positives together then run one wire to the aux at the m unit? That's where I'm getting confused.
Yeah I did. The same with the grounds. Email me at info@cafechronicles.ca and I’ll give you the details. I’ll share the diagram I worked from if it helps. 👍
do you have a choke on this bike?? i wasnt seeing it anywhere on the handlebars
@Cafe Chronicles
Hey Matt. Yes there is a choke on there. I mounted it on the right. You can see in this vid around 29 seconds ua-cam.com/video/fDu2osx6yak/v-deo.html
You can also see it here ua-cam.com/video/COnW4hs2BHM/v-deo.html
Why are you using such a big gauge wires for the controls? All they do is send a signal to the m unit. You can use .5 or .75 mm wire for the buttons.
Thank you. period
Thanks for checking out the channel 👍
Fair play dude 👌🏻
Thanks for tuning in man 👍 hope your build is coming along
Cafe Chronicles just got the seat loop and tray welded up 😁 next up sand blast and powder coat 😁
NOT-DEAD-YET nice work! Soon you’ll be assembling, that’s where it gets fun!
Fair play to you! Is it an Irish accent?
Thanks Man, it is indeed. Living in Canada, but Irish originally.
You could have daisy chained the earths so only one out of each cluster……
Yeah I figured this one out a little too late. A few years later, I'm actually cleaning this up at the moment. Thanks for watching. Steve
SNAKES ALIVE … shut my gob!
Really it’s a simple single cheap controller that the rats nest of wires attach to… about $2. As neat as this seems it introduces complications to the wiring beyond easily field diagnostics along the roadside, and it still needs ground and power wires… so it’s not one wire just the comm signal wire going to the M-gadget. The hassle of making a bundle of hidden switch wires to it and stashing that in the handle bars is just crude or more so than simply running a bundle of individual control wires direct from the switches … probably is easier… and it is still digital control with low power control wires. A neat bundle 12v low power 20-22-24 gauge wires has the advantage over the single 22 awg wire is some mechanical robustness and less electrical interference issues… and easier to put shielding sleeve over the bundle and make ground connection. NOW here’s an idea run the bundled cables to the m-Button using a nearby small connector or a terminal stop for the control switch wires connections then you have trouble shooting access to the switch wiring … this mounted next to the m-gadget… and m- button then that tiny fragile single wire is protected and you have much less complication and aggravation hiding all the mess of switch wires to m-button… As alternative do this near the handle bar but you still have a single fragile wire run… that you need to bundle like a loom and shielding protect.
Honestly thy could have installed the controller chip in the switch assembly
Fair points. Thanks for watching. Not sure I would use the M-unit again to be honest.
@@cafechronicles I only used it to have the security, keyless start/stop, and the ability of using cell phone programming…. That’s a lot. Wiring the mechanical control wiring and switches I see no value in the M-unit… and it makes field trouble sorting not that great. Sometime I will do a wiring video.