Thermally Modified Wood Experiment - Part 1
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- Опубліковано 30 лип 2017
- More projects here: / thesnekkershow
Thermally modified wood has both advantages and disadvantages over regular kiln-dried or pressure-treated wood. The advantages include increased weather resistance, rot resistance, insect resistance, and darker coloration that isn't just surface deep. The disadvantages include less flexibility making it prone to splitting when nailing, increased cost, and lower availability. Let's take a look at how the average home woodworker can mitigate the last two disadvantages by making their own thermally-modified wood at home.
"my wife isn't home yet so that means I can do whatever I want" LOVE IT!
Thanks for doing this so we don’t have to. You prevented lots of house fires and made lots of wives happy!!
Try this at 350 for 4 hours
2:55 is so cute and hilarious
Have you tried wrapping it carefully in aluminum foil? That's my poor man's version of an oxygen free environment.
Maybe a little high temp tape from the big box store to seal the seams.
That's just crazy enough to work. Probably wouldn't want to seal it completely though because of the steam.
Yep. I think you don't really have to seal it completely. barely wrapping it should be enough to prevent it from catching a fire
That would just seal in the water.
Very interesting. By the way, your voice reminds
me of Ron Swanson. Please take that as a compliment.
Thanks for the video.
First sentece is the best! So goood!
"When the Cat is out of the House, the Mouse is Dancing"
My wife put WD - 40 on our squeaky hinges totally messed up my security.
Looks like you'll need some more bear traps.
If you cast or weld an aluminum box and vacuum the air out and run the experiment again it should work a lot better 👍
According to Turkish researchers, the wood loses up to 20% of its strength if its heated up to the 400 degree range. But if its heated only up to the 275 degree F, range but for a longer time, around 5-6 hours, then it only loses around 8% of its strength. Also, it does not get rid of sugars in the wood- it caramelizes the sugars so that they are not in a form fugus can grow in. Sugar in its pure form will caramelize at 338 degrees F. I think what you did more or less charcoalized the wood,
That's interesting, do you have a link? I found this video recently, which includes several charts showing the outcome at different temperatures: ua-cam.com/video/Xp5_eW1ntO8/v-deo.html
I just learned how to make charcoal.
A few years ago I was working on a project where the object was to roast white hard maple into an ebony-like state. To that end we cranked high heat & a left it in a long time. Ebony color achieved ✅ . Unfortunately the sugar maple came out mostly checked and with the texture/pliability of 17 year old peanut brittle. Completely unusable. Thank I still have a unit buried in the warehouse somewhere 😆.
After seeing your results ,maybe we should have tried pine 🤷♂️?
I've learned a few things since I made this video. The first is to increase the temperature gradually, like 50 degrees every 30 minutes, to avoid creating uneven stress between the inside and outside of the boards. The second is to stack, sticker, and clamp the boards together when possible.
just found your channel. I would leave the door squeaking. it might be your last warning she's home :>) Just in case you are putting something in there she wouldn't approve of.
I actually did consider leaving it as a security feature.
I am a tap dancer and want to make taps from torrefied ipe. Apparently if you wrap the wood tightly with aluminum you eliminate the contact with oxygen and it doesn't burn as much. I am going to be trying this in the next few days.
How thick was the wood in the experiment? Is there a recommendation for time per board foot or inch/thickness?
These pieces were around 3/4 inch thick. I've done thicker boards around 2 inches, but haven't worked out a formula for thickness.
I am dealing with professional thermal modification kilns. You face a great fire risk unless doing this in oxygen free oven by not removing but replacing the oxygen with saturated steam. So keep a pot of boiling water in the oven during the process. Needs constant refilling, though. We use 200 litres of water for each 430 bf of wood! Chemical reactions start to happen when the temperature reaches 375F but for full treatment you have to reach 445F. Warning: wood is exothermic starting to GENERATE heat so the job is to cool the wood, not heat it. We do it by spraying water on the wood which absorpes the energy when it evaporates. Tricky and charcoal may be what you will be getting out...
I've had the best outcomes in the 300-350F range for most woods, which is not likely to ignite anything. I've tried using steam, but part of the problem is that a home oven isn't big enough for a pot of water and a full stack of wood. The steam ends up concentrated on certain parts of the stack. A home oven certainly isn't an ideal kiln, but it is an available one.
@@TheSnekkerShow I find it very interesting experiment that never came to my mind. Maybe you could develop this into a product for the consumers: after the turkey is done the oven is left to you? Just kidding... Anyway I would put a cooking tray of water below the wood but it would need regular replenishment. The standard air fan in the oven is not strong enough, compare to this video from a full size kiln: ua-cam.com/video/G0d-a0HW1l0/v-deo.html
@@TheSnekkerShow a further comment: that 300-350F range is good for changing wood color and most flooring makers are using that range for that reason. Chemical reactions start only after 375F improving the wood durability. At lower levels nothing happens.
Question, Can Raw Unfinished Maple wood be Flame Burned with a torch, Guys say that maple does not take a good flame burn like Ash does, would like your take onmaple Flame burning etc, thanks for sharing your video etc.
I will have an opinion for you shortly.
ua-cam.com/video/AXJfD-M3S_8/v-deo.html
I think heating it with oxygen involved causes the wood to chemically change in a different way. I think you're making charcoal, and not thermally modified wood
The absence of oxygen just keeps it from catching on fire, and is literally how charcoal is made. It doesn't affect the wood's properties otherwise.
I wonder if you soaked the wood in sugar water let the air dry and then toasted them if you could get color sooner with less heat and less shrinkage and a more pleasing coffee color
That's an interesting idea. Baking soda might have an effect too. If it browns pancakes, maybe it will brown wood too.
Hi
What is the purpose of placing the wood in the oven? Does the wood get harder? Isn't it brittle? Thanks :-)
He totally went into great detail about the why and reasons in the first 2 minutes of the video.
A little more pressure and temperature and you will cook diamonds!
No wonder Leo Fender using Pine wood for earlier Telecaster.. its a workhorse kind of wood..
Too much hiss in the narration..sorry. Thank you for the video, good info
Have you tried dying the wood and then baking them?
I have not, but that's an interesting idea. I'd probably bake the wood first and dye it while it's hot, dry, and very absorbent. I've found walnut oil soaks in very quickly and deeply on baked wooden kitchen utensils, for example.
ua-cam.com/play/PLh-hxroCfeyPAQo-rCHTgGDmJVTWFia9z.html&jct=xwnf0EXA7fyf0bR2rn6EIoCkN6VSEw
I'm glad I found you! You have an extensive knowledge on wood working and I thought I might ask if you could help me figure out a burnt wood technique. I almost have it down except for the finishing. I'm sure you have heard of it; its called, " Shou Sugi Ban," which is a burn and brush process then dye. I didn't realize there were so many different types of dyes, then they fall in to sub-categories and so on and the list goes on forever. Just to give you an idea of what I'm trying to replicate is that there's this Milling Company called Delta Mill Works and Re-sawn Lumber. So I thought they baked it with some sort of Powder Coating for wood lol. Maybe we could collaborate. Thank you.
Thanks for the link. You have a new subscriber.
I learned the name recently, but my first burned-wood project was a box I built 25 years ago (and still have). Just last weekend I replaced some rotten gable returns with poplar that I sawed myself and baked in the oven. I'll have to check out Delta Mill Works. Thanks.
You have to remove oxygen from whatever kiln you use
Otherwise you will burn the wood
I work at WESTWOOD we thermally modify wood
Kristina Gibson . I guess a lower temperature would also d better plus a running fan. But yeah, removing the oxygen is better
It's called oxidative torrefaction. You don't have to remove the oxygen.
My Wife is out of town, guess what I got I've got in the oven?
I think the back row got hotter first.
That was a conventional oven so the heating element was on the top, but it's possible the door in the front could have allowed more heat to escape than the steel in the back. I've had pretty similar results with subsequent tests though: Softer woods tend to self-insulate a little better. I even replaced some rotten fascia boxes on my house with baked poplar boards once they reacclimated to room moisture levels.
@@TheSnekkerShow , I was thinking about ways to bake larger planks (like 1"x4"x8'). I wonder if you could use a pair of rectangular ducts, a smaller one inside a larger one. put the wood inside the smaller one, seal the ends with metal ducting tape and displace the air with a CO2 canister before totally sealing (to prevent burning). put the inner one up on some bricks so you can put propane burners under the smaller one, and insulate the whole thing with some high temp rock wool. the outer one wouldn't need to be sealed, and you could cut holes in the bottom for the burners to sit lower so they're not right up against the inner duct. use some thermometers to keep track of the temp inside the duct with logs in it.
@@somedude-lc5dy Good idea. I was thinking about doing something similar for bamboo poles, but haven't worked out the details.
Any misgivings about using the oven for food after your shenanigans? Probably not, but don’t you think you should keep craft/hobby materials away from food prep areas. It is amazing what I have seen placed in microwave ovens, conventional gas and electric ovens, and convection ovens and not once any mention of concern or consideration of the advisability of following these activities with food prep in the same device.
Since wood is regularly burned to cook or smoke food, I'm not worried about putting it in my oven. My main concern was proper ventilation.
Isn't thermally modified wood done in an anaerobic oxygen free environment? Not in you kitchen oven
"Thermally" means with heat, and "modified" means changed in some way. I'll let you take it from there.
@@TheSnekkerShow wiki thermally modified wood my man. Let you.take it from there
I tried it and my wood plank just cracked 10 times
Sorry to hear that. Try raising the temperature more slowly next time so the wood has time to adjust. Lower moisture content also helps.
Congratulations... you made charcoal 👍
He lost me the moment he took the camera into the house and showed the home oven. The professional torrefaction process is extremely high tech, a deoxygenated environment with temperatures hundreds of degrees fahrenheit, not some UA-camr using their wife's oven lol. The humor of this is not lost on me, but really...this is not true torrefaction.
It's not state-of-the-art, but it's an actual representation of the torrefaction process. It's called oxidative torrefaction. What you are referring to is nonoxidative torrefaction.
Idiotic comparison to really thermally modified wood.