On a house of mine, I removed all skirtings (had a small underfloor), removed all the window frames. On each bedroom (external wall but internal of the house) wall, I insulated it with insulated gyproc (total 60mm). Filled all the gaps on the skirtings and window frames with foam. Taped it up with Tescon Vana air tightness tape. Reinstated it all, mastic it up. The gas consumption (and removed all the mould we had on the walls) in the house more than halved. You will spend money doing this, but you can recover your money (ROI - return of investment) within a couple of years and massively increase your comfortability in the house massively.
I appreciate how thorough you are at your job, nice to know how to do things properly and that infact it isnt about being over the top its just good practice
Might this cill have called for applying a paint stripping solution? Thank you for doing what virtually no one else does - show in detail the hard, skilled prep work that distinguishes great paint jobs.
Great to come across a video that addresses the problem I have I.e. drafts coming through the walls as opposed to the windows themselves. Most videos just focus on the windows and the application of the draft excluder strips. You’ve given me some ideas so thank you very much!
Soudaull should be giving you foam by the pallet load as you and i use the stuff every where as it is such a use full product and problem solver ty your attention for detail is second tko none very inspiring as always thank you
Great video, I have a question how do you keep the foam fresh til another job, I seem to waste hardly used cans of foam because they go hard in the nozzle and tube?
Buy a foam gun. More outlay initially but saves loads in the long term. Just shut the nozzle down tight. Plus you can control the speed the foam comes out
Karen, the Soudal brand comes with a plug stopper and once opened is useable for 6 weeks, i've found the best results always come from plugging the tube asap after use. If some of the foam becomes solidified in the tube, then what you can do is use a screw and screw it down into the plug and pull it out (be careful and always wear goggles as sometimes the foam can spurt out once the plug is removed) --------------------------------------------------- The other alternative is to invest in the foam gun handle as others have mentioned, this allows you to use the pro level canisters, but you need to invest in an additional can of cleaner for use after so the gun doesn't become blocked.
@@GavinLawrence747 no you don't. If you screw the end down tightly after each use that is enough. Over 20 years I've found the only time I've ruined a gun is by trying to keep the nozzle clean with gun cleaner.
Personally I'd sort out the outside first and find out where the damp and draughts are coming from. Maybe foam and re-silicone seal around the outside of the windows, otherwise the good work done inside will just get damp again and start crumbling or the fresh paint will possibly peel or go mouldy ;)
I enjoy looking at your tips as we have had the same on-the-job experiences . I got a question on how to remove the tape residues which remain on wooden floors wthout damaging the surface . What is the best products to use .
Excellent work. I find its this level of craft that customer don't understand, and allot of decorators just mask the issue - butter over. Hats-off, to showing how it should be done. Question: I now use Zinsser Gardz for smaller areas and other times, dependent on issue - rather than PVA. As I feel results are better and its more forgiving to work with. Why do you stick to PVA and have you used or would consider using Gardz?
@@PaintingandDecorating so true.i do a fair bit of diy myself.some jobs can wear you down.when things look straight fordward and they turn out not to be..but as you say the job always gets done...
Hi guys Been watching you for years on my smart tv, and you are both amazing! I just keep wondering when to use diluted pva or water downed paint on new plastering. Please help Thank you
Excellent video. Thanks. But I see trouble brewing with thermal bridging due to the unpredictable expanding form. Which will lead to the usual mould growth around the window.
Excellent video! I have never used expanding foam but I can see it's benefits...Just a question ...After spraying in the foam, why isn't the excess removed while still wet?
Great workmanship, an extra insulation method is the new wallrock made insulation lining paper. It's expensive but like a thin carpet holds heat in room does work. Idea for solid external walls.
Well I clicked the video hoping to see info about drafts in modern upvc style windows. I wasn't expecting a video on how to stop drafts in a wall made like Swiss cheese 😅
Soon as I see drafts around window I knew the foam would be out again. I'm sure the foam company would sponsor you if they see your videos... Good job tho.
You crack me up. "Windows should have foam round them to make them A rated" that one clearly needs replacing to make it A rated. It's like a hybrid wooden UPVC mess. We didn't even have Ratings until the mid 90s. Imagine telling a surveyor them windows are A rated because they have foam round them. Please..
You’re completely taking what he said and making it different. He’s talking about in general. Of course foaming a 90 year old window doesn’t make it a rated. Use your noggin or you’ll make yourself look a bit silly with comments like that
@nikthegreekcypriot so silly me, I'm not taking what he said and making it different. I'm replying to what he said about A Rated Windows.. That's just simple facts.
Rookie mistake again... Never use bonding or undercoat plaster around window reveals because it's draws in moisture over time. Use cement instead and fill over. So bad advice on your channel but also some good.
These videos really are a public service. A painter and decorator you'd recommend without hesitation.
Thank you.
Thanks to your videos, and others as pro as this, I have come to realise so many trades that I've paid A LOT to fix and repair, were utterly useless.
On a house of mine, I removed all skirtings (had a small underfloor), removed all the window frames. On each bedroom (external wall but internal of the house) wall, I insulated it with insulated gyproc (total 60mm). Filled all the gaps on the skirtings and window frames with foam. Taped it up with Tescon Vana air tightness tape. Reinstated it all, mastic it up. The gas consumption (and removed all the mould we had on the walls) in the house more than halved. You will spend money doing this, but you can recover your money (ROI - return of investment) within a couple of years and massively increase your comfortability in the house massively.
Using your videos whilst correcting cracks and the previous owner never sorted holes/ plugs. They are giving me a structure of approach. Thank you
Great thanks for watching.
I appreciate how thorough you are at your job, nice to know how to do things properly and that infact it isnt about being over the top its just good practice
Thank you.
Might this cill have called for applying a paint stripping solution? Thank you for doing what virtually no one else does - show in detail the hard, skilled prep work that distinguishes great paint jobs.
Thank.. depends on budget and time.. but it will look good.
Great to come across a video that addresses the problem I have I.e. drafts coming through the walls as opposed to the windows themselves. Most videos just focus on the windows and the application of the draft excluder strips. You’ve given me some ideas so thank you very much!
Soudaull should be giving you foam by the pallet load as you and i use the stuff every where as it is such a use full product and problem solver ty your attention for detail is second tko none very inspiring as always thank you
...Wednesday tea time tutorial: appreciated & greatful. Hope you'll continually be rewarded👏
Can't wait to see the finish, excellent work as always.
Thank you will be at least a couple of days.
You guys rock. Amazing work!! Please move to NYC, I will hire you LOL!!
Thank you.. and nice offer.
Great video, I have a question how do you keep the foam fresh til another job, I seem to waste hardly used cans of foam because they go hard in the nozzle and tube?
ua-cam.com/video/T_-i4daG-b4/v-deo.html
Buy a foam gun. More outlay initially but saves loads in the long term. Just shut the nozzle down tight. Plus you can control the speed the foam comes out
Karen, the Soudal brand comes with a plug stopper and once opened is useable for 6 weeks, i've found the best results always come from plugging the tube asap after use.
If some of the foam becomes solidified in the tube, then what you can do is use a screw and screw it down into the plug and pull it out (be careful and always wear goggles as sometimes the foam can spurt out once the plug is removed)
---------------------------------------------------
The other alternative is to invest in the foam gun handle as others have mentioned, this allows you to use the pro level canisters, but you need to invest in an additional can of cleaner for use after so the gun doesn't become blocked.
@@GavinLawrence747 no you don't. If you screw the end down tightly after each use that is enough. Over 20 years I've found the only time I've ruined a gun is by trying to keep the nozzle clean with gun cleaner.
Soudal. It's the best I've ever used. The nozzle won't snap, and the plug keeps the tube useable.
Personally I'd sort out the outside first and find out where the damp and draughts are coming from. Maybe foam and re-silicone seal around the outside of the windows, otherwise the good work done inside will just get damp again and start crumbling or the fresh paint will possibly peel or go mouldy ;)
I enjoy looking at your tips as we have had the same on-the-job experiences . I got a question on how to remove the tape residues which remain on wooden floors wthout damaging the surface . What is the best products to use .
Thank you.. White spirit is great for removing certain adhesive.
Excellent work. I find its this level of craft that customer don't understand, and allot of decorators just mask the issue - butter over. Hats-off, to showing how it should be done. Question: I now use Zinsser Gardz for smaller areas and other times, dependent on issue - rather than PVA. As I feel results are better and its more forgiving to work with. Why do you stick to PVA and have you used or would consider using Gardz?
The perfect video. Thanks for documenting the whole process.
Great video you give lots of great tips on how to do it the right way. Keep up the great work 👍
What looks like small jobs can just take so much time..great info...
Yes have just about got use to jobs suddenly turning a little crazy for a few days.. but always get there in the end.. thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating so true.i do a fair bit of diy myself.some jobs can wear you down.when things look straight fordward and they turn out not to be..but as you say the job always gets done...
Another brilliant video Lot of great tips thanks
Hi guys
Been watching you for years on my smart tv, and you are both amazing!
I just keep wondering when to use diluted pva or water downed paint on new plastering. Please help
Thank you
Excellent video. Thanks. But I see trouble brewing with thermal bridging due to the unpredictable expanding form. Which will lead to the usual mould growth around the window.
Thanks.. its foam so no bridging of cold... it will be fine if you get water breaching you have a leak on your exterior
@@PaintingandDecorating OK thanks
Excellent video! I have never used expanding foam but I can see it's benefits...Just a question ...After spraying in the foam, why isn't the excess removed while still wet?
Thanks. The foam needs to cure before being touched once applied.
@@PaintingandDecorating Thanks, that's much appreciated!
Great video mate. Looking forward to the next part.
Thank you.
What are those bits of timber doing sticking into the wall? They look a prime source of damp ingress in behind the plaster.
They're old fixing blocks used to fix skirting board, window sills and door linings in a time before wall plugs
Awesome knowledge master!
Thank you.
People need to remember, that most mastic/sealant products are non-permanent. They will likely fail, due to UV rays etc, which causes shrinkage.
What's the name of the scrapper you are using? So I can buy one
Great workmanship, an extra insulation method is the new wallrock made insulation lining paper. It's expensive but like a thin carpet holds heat in room does work.
Idea for solid external walls.
Thanks.. we do apply that but it all depends if the customer wants that.
I'm only 2 mins in and again I've learned so much !!
Thank you.
Off too buy some of that tomorrow tah muchly!
Welcome.
is this a new method you are using only cant remember you using base plaster before for this kind of job ?
It depends on how deep and how much to fill.. but have found over the years that undercoat plaster is versatile and can be painted.
How do check for lead paint ?? and how do you deal with it ??
It's all about the age of the property but generally we always have P3 dust masks when sanding. Thanks
Excellent as always 👍🏻
Thanks
As always...... v informative...
Thank you.
Hello mate what's the best roller to use for popcorn ceiling? Am using zinsser coverstain
Medium pile and don't use cheap ones. Thanks
Thanks for responding. Top man.
Well I clicked the video hoping to see info about drafts in modern upvc style windows. I wasn't expecting a video on how to stop drafts in a wall made like Swiss cheese 😅
Glad you're surprised hope you enjoyed the filling. 😁
Thanks, the noise of the scraping is louder than your commentary. I’ll need to replace the wax in my ears back.
Sorry about that 😃
Soon as I see drafts around window I knew the foam would be out again. I'm sure the foam company would sponsor you if they see your videos... Good job tho.
Thanks
AwesomE! !!
What does the PVA do?
It seals the dusty surface and provides a key
Is it necessary to use plaster, cant it be done with just alot of filler
It can be more expensive to use filler on large areas.. thanks
You crack me up. "Windows should have foam round them to make them A rated" that one clearly needs replacing to make it A rated. It's like a hybrid wooden UPVC mess. We didn't even have Ratings until the mid 90s. Imagine telling a surveyor them windows are A rated because they have foam round them. Please..
You’re completely taking what he said and making it different. He’s talking about in general. Of course foaming a 90 year old window doesn’t make it a rated. Use your noggin or you’ll make yourself look a bit silly with comments like that
@nikthegreekcypriot so silly me, I'm not taking what he said and making it different. I'm replying to what he said about A Rated Windows.. That's just simple facts.
👍👍👍👍
Thank you.
Rookie mistake again... Never use bonding or undercoat plaster around window reveals because it's draws in moisture over time. Use cement instead and fill over. So bad advice on your channel but also some good.
The window is sealed so no drawing in of water.... cement no.
Be cheapee get new window in..Not enough brass in decorating for this amount of effort
Shave hook🤪🤪🤪my ears😂😂