BUiLDiNG the Tamiya Super Avante TD4 - Step by Step 43-47: Electronics, Driver & Shoes!
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- What about a Tamiya TD4 Super Avante RC Car Build, up close, FPV, step by step, taking the time, where you can actually see what is going on?
Step 0 (Full Unboxing) • UNBOXiNG the Tamiya Su...
Step 1-5 (Parts Bag A): • BUiLDiNG the Tamiya Su...
Step 5 (Revisited): • BUiLDiNG the Tamiya Su...
Step 6-12 (Parts Bag B): • BUiLDiNG the Tamiya Su...
Step 13-20 (Parts Bag C): • BUiLDiNG the Tamiya Su...
Step 21-29 (Parts Bag D): • BUiLDiNG the Tamiya Su...
Step 30-42 (Parts Bag E): • BUiLDiNG the Tamiya Su...
Step 43-47 (Parts Bag E): • BUiLDiNG the Tamiya Su...
This kit was a gift from the generous RC Elf. From the bottom of my heart, I thank you! Sometimes words aren't enough.
More thoughts, notes, info and specifications below!
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Feel free to navigate in the video, using the numbers in the left upper corner to find the step you are looking for. Or speed the video up, listen to your own music - or just sit back, relax and watch the entire build.
This kit will be build slowly, stock, near-box-art and according to the instructions. Plenty of other build videos around with upgrades, modifications and customized paint jobs. I wanted to try it out exactly as Tamiya released it before eventually moving on.
Nothing wrong with getting things done quickly and efficient, but with this particular one I wanted to take my time and make an effort. If you found this video helpful, catch any mistakes or have any corrections, tips and tricks please comment. I, and others, will appreciate it very much.
Tamiya Super Avante TD4 Specifications:
- Item no. 58696 Assembly Kit
- Released in 2021
- Chassis: TD4 Plastic Bathtub Frame
- Body/Wing: Polycarbonate
- Drive-line: 4WD Shaft-driven
- Scale: 1/10
- Length: 387 mm
- Width: 246 mm
- Height: 117 mm
- Wheelbase: 283 mm
- Tread: 214mm (front), 205mm (rear)
- Front & rear ball differentials
- 3-piece steering tie-rod
- 4-wheel double wishbone suspension
- Tire width/diameter: 32/82mm (front), 41/82mm (rear)
- Spiked 1/10 Buggy Tires
- Star Dish 1/10 Wheels w/ 12 mm hex
- CVA Oil Filled Shocks
- Full Ball Bearings
- Aluminium Metal Motor Mount
- Aluminium Metal Propeller Shaft
- Metal Drive Axles & Wheel Axles
- Adjustable Wing Height & Size
- 17T steel pinion gear & 70T plastic spur gear included.
- Gear Ratio = 10.71:1
- No electronics included
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#NordicRCVisions Statement:
This video features homemade footage of my own #RcCar #Tamiya #TamiyaRCCar #TamiyaSuperAvante #TamiyaTD4 from my personal #RC collection. All rights reserved.
All #RcCars and RC parts in this video are hobby-grade and intended for adults and ages +14 years.
Lovely step by step build.
Thank you so much Mattias! Finally found time to edit the last part, with the body, today :-)
Schönes Video klasse gezeigt daumen hoch
Thank you ... I think :-)
That is quite a bit of movement on the servo. I heard people saying that end point settings are important on the Td4 but also a metal alloy servo holder helps. I am surprised that the movement is so breath though and that rubbing on the shaft is worrying! Interestingly there is not that sort of movement on the TD2 chassis I have just built although it does have a different steering system. I bet you’ll fix it up though! Can’t wait to see 👍🏻🙌🏻
Hi bro! Yeah, apart from the EPA and the alloy, Steve also mentioned that removing the steering limiting screws could help. Yes, that rubbing is worrying. I bet the TD2 was designed first. The space for the electronics on the TD4 doesn’t seem well thought out. But we will fix it 😊 Hopefully without buying more parts like the servo mount (at least not now).
Hi Mikael, I'm really glad I caught up with you on this video! Oh now I'm worried! I just started my build and all is going well up to step 7! I now worry if I can get all my outdated electronics in that chassis! It's gonna be a squeeze. But thank you for the heads-up, I think I will leave those steering limiters out for a start. I may even have a go at strengthening the servo mount. We will see. I hope you are doing well mate, and your family. Lots going on here at the moment, I think big changes are coming for me soon. I must email you and let you know. All the best, good friend! :O)
Hi Mark! Finally had time to check some comments that got lost in all that work :-) Ahh, I'm sure yours will be fine. Yeah, leave those steering limiters out and install a radio with EPA (or at least D/R). I'm sure yours will be fine. I'm just showing the worst scenarios here, he he. Best wishes my mate. Uhh, looked everywhere for that e-mail but couldn't find it. Would love to know about the new changes!
Hi there, just love watching your step by step guides, they are terrific. Take care and hooray ! To the RC Elf, one happy man with a TD4! Awesome. 😊😉😊
Hi John! Yeah! So happy to experience the TD4 myself, all thanks to the RC ELF 🧝♂️☺️
Super like,, 🤩👍
Thank you so much my friend!
Ha ha, looks like you had lots of "fun" with this one, Mikael! It's not exactly easy to work with, it seems... What's next, paint video? And then out for a run, right? It's nice to follow along with this.
He he, yeah, not exactly a cozy and comfortable TT-02B build 😅 Yeah, need to sort out the servo issue. And then for the hard part: the body 🙃 Thanks a lot for following along, Mads.
Hiya Mikael. I was thinking that I hadn't seen any new videos for a while so I went to your home page and realised I'd not seen this one from a month ago. It looks like there are a few issues with getting the electronics in this so they aren't in the way. What's going on with the steering servo? A few problems to resolve there. I think that the 2WD version will be much easier because no prop shaft and also I believe you can put the battery in the side. I'm sure this video will be very useful to those building this kit. Anyway I hope that you are ok mate. Best wishes to you and your family :-)
Enjoyed ❤️👊🏻👍🏻
Thank you bro!
This is a nice buggy to put the battery in is kind of a pain but it runs very good, the shocks do feel thick and slow dampened but they work great because this things kind of heavy. Don't know why you have so much flex in the servo moving looks like something wrong. Go run it! EDIT, I did not install the steering limiter screws in mine and it turns sharper and it may also stop the servo flex because your servo will turn a bit more... yours looks stressed like you need to adjust the throw so it don't twist in the chassis.
Hi Steve! Yeah, seen it run good. I love slow dampers so it feels good to me - no matter the actual performance 😅 I bet if you watch your servo it will move too. The servo mount is made of the flexible plastic. I see a lot of people upgrading it to alloy to stop the flex. And yeah, before I run it I will definitely of course stop it from grinding at the main shaft. This is a build video, for demonstration purpose. Not a fix video. The servo mount shouldn’t be able to move like that - even when build stock. It’s unacceptable. But yeah, I think I can make it stop just by adjusting the steering D/R. I will look into the steering limiter, if it makes a difference regarding the servo mount flex. I doubt it though, but thanks for the tip. Best wishes my mate.
@@NordicRC Hi Mine hardly moves at all yours is probably moving because the steering end points are not set and the steering throw stops but your servo turns more... also why I suggested taking out the steering limiting screws they make you put in that makes it even worse.
Will definitely take a look at it. Thanks for the tips, Steve.
Dude, awesome tip for painting the head & bust by using threaded rods (bolts) & a nut!!!!! The driver looks great, bummer about the sticker not sitting down all the way (maybe some heat will help). Ah yes, the flex in the servo mounts/chassis, The importance of using a radio with steering EPA (End Point Adjustments) with this kit as I found out. Great job so far my friend, going box are for the paint? ATB to you & yours, stay safe!!!
Hi Bob! Ahh, yeah, I bet I got the tip myself in a UA-cam video, so just passing it on here ☺️ And yeah, I aught to have used some heat on that helmet sticker. Maybe I will try to fix it later, but I think I already made a mess of the sticker shape. And yeah, O don’t think the DumboRC has EPA. Just D/R, so maybe that will work. My Sanwa radio with EPA I had planned for this, as seen in the video, got a too wide/tall receiver 😕 Best wishes my bro
@@NordicRC If your good at making things, check out happy1833, he made a carbon top brace for "his" TD4 and it looks trick and it works.
When it comes to the hobby I’m only good at buying things 😅
@@NordicRC LOL
Get a gartpot 4000 lipo pack for it.
What a pain getting the electrics to fit, so little room. The figure holder you made for painting I liked that a lot and they way it is fitted into the chassis. But the limitation of battery size and how much is needed to get the thing in and screws. Now does the servo need a metal mount as the movement was terrible.
Yeah, space for electronics wasn’t their first priority. I bet the TD2 was actually designed first - and then the TD4. On the TD2 there is room for the ESC at the bottom, nest to the battery. Which leaves room for any kind of receiver at the place where the ESC is mounted on the TD4. And the servo is mounted on the opposite side on the TD2 … and well, of course no chance for interfering with a main shaft.
Why does it seem as if that servo rubbing and moving like that will cause issues later?
Servo saver touching the main shaft will definitely cause issues 🙃
@@NordicRC is it a design flaw? Any way to fix that?
EPA or D/R on the radio could limit it. Also, there is an aluminum servo mount available. Steve (Shen RC) also mentioned here that removing the steering limiting screws could limit the throw.
Very Nice ❤️❤️🙂
New Friends
Full Sapport Dear Friends 🤝🤝😍🥰😘😘
I forgot did you put the slipper on it?
Nope, all stock.
빡침이 느껴진다 ㅋㅋㅋㅋ
Hope it means something good 😶
@@NordicRC I can feel your anger in the assembly video. It means. 😁😁
That servo movement was painful to watch. What an over priced Piece of junk that car is!
I didnt see how the servo is mounted but I suspect with screw through the chassis? If so the maybe adding a aluminum or steel plate on the outside of the chassis would stiffen that area enough to fix the issue.
Honestly cant believe tamiya let hat out of the factory that way.
Hi Dan. I wouldn’t go as far as calling my sweet Tamiya a piece of junk, but yes, that servo mount is horrible. There is an alloy upgrade available - but I will see if I can limit the movement first without spending money 😀
@@NordicRC my apologies with the junk comment. However that car is upwards of $500 Canadian and for that money I expect much better especially from a Japanese manufacture. I have a few of the HSP brand cars and trucks and while not perfect either they dont cost as much as Tamiya and they are ready to run. I have had some of them a few years now and they for the most part have taken all that I have thrown at them.
Tamiya really needs to up their game I think. That said I was finally able to get my hands on a Racing fighter new in box that Im assembling as we speak so I am not totally against Tamiya.