HA! Thats the goal... people often ask why our team wears black shirts in the field when doing demonstrations - it is so we can prove you can polish surfaces without slinging compound!
"Picking up the bead"... that has got to be the smoothest thing I've ever seen! Hahaha. 2yr later and this video is still helping people. Thanks for the video, Rupes!
Glad to hear it. If you ever have a chance to attend training we can demonstrate for you how our orbital tools should operate with virtually no vibration. But good to hear you're happy with the LH19E!
Sir you are a great, I like the way you explained every single point. I didn’t have to go back to look at the video one more time like I usually do with other instructors. Thank you
That is a debatable statement, just given the mechanics of the movement, but regardless we're happy you're getting the results you want and in the end that is all that matters!
I am not necessarily at Jasons level but after 28 years with a rotary (began in 1993), these are my recommendations for new users. Make sure the pad is perfectly centred on the plate or use the 3M double sided pads and adaptor if you want a guaranteed perfect centred pad every time. Having it fractionally off centre or more than that creates vibration and your likely to induce fine swirls. Keep your pads clean, run flat almost always but if tilting, always finish with one pass with the pad flat. The higher speed you run, the faster the product dries, try to avoid using a pad dry from the start, dampen it a tad (ONR/tiny drop of parrafin oil, nanolex optimiser, water). dont use one speed then stop unless your running at 900 rpm or slower, refine as you correct by reducing the machine speed to make any holograms you may leave mega fine or leave none at all. Yes it can be done.though a scratch pattern can be seen under intense scrutiny which most light and the sun will never show. use deburred wool to eliminate the scouring that the barbs/hooks in traditional wool can cause, not all wool pads are created equal as there are different grades of wool (graded in micron size) and some synthetics also exist, these run hotter than natural wool). NZ super fine grade wool works great on any machine type and finishes well. Be smooth, use one arm speed and dont deviate except for increasing arm speed at the last pass to reduce your chances of holograms. Buy a quality machine not a cheapy. Rupes, Fein, Metabo PE15-RT20, Flex. The cheap ones can lack the torque and smoothness of a quality one
@@RUPES thankyou, i do try to keep a somewhat low profile these days as ive been too opinionated in the past. However i do have a passion to share the stuff i do know to help others. Knowledge unshared is knowledge wasted. Finish quality is more important than speed of cut too, customer wont be happy if you corrected their car faster than previous timeframes but the finish isn't up to scratch (pardon the pun), thats what made me successful. A focus on the finish whilst being efficient as best as possible and no cutting corners.
@@matthewgibb2640 Hi Matthew thanks for all that valuable information, i have to specifically ask, is possible to leave no Holograms at all? Even on softer paints? Maybe with a 5" and low speed, no pressure at all and the finest pad and compound avalaible? What do you think?
@@ToyotaAristo hello and thanks for the comment. Yes you can finish hologram free with a rotary but it often takes a very high skill level. I have done it many many times. Finish at 700 rpm or less.
I started using the rotary in 1982, still use it at my shop. Currently using the DeWalt 849x but thinking of buying the Rupes rotary, I have the Rupes Mark I and II which works well.
@@RUPES I am indeed. The LHr19e and the blue coarse pad and polish. I’m sure there is an issue with my technique/using the right amount of product etc A tutorial would be great if you can please. Have tried searching but couldn’t find one. Thanks for the reply.
That’s very odd. Please reach out to our customer service using the link in the description in the video so we can help troubleshoot and exchange pictures to better understand the issue
Would love a video going more into the rotary polish formulas. How different are they. What specifically separates a rotary polish from a DA polish. Maybe use them both and demonstrate the differences and advantages that make the rotary specific formula a better choice. 👍✌
I’ve only been in the game for around a year, only been using rupes rotary combinations and I would 110% agree with the learning curve, and still a way to go, but my goodness the quality over anything else in my eyes just rips through as low as p2000 wet!!!
I run all the Rupes stuff except I have yet to pick up the rotary you all have. I have however used your rotary compound and polish and was impressed by the feel of the liquid itself the polish felt extremely smooth. Maybe I’ll pickup your rotary tool at some point. I’m seriously considering it, especially since my LHR21 is at your repair facility right now.
a question about the picking up method. After blowing out the pad with a tornador, you repeat the same process with the same amount of polish or reduce it a bit to not saturate? thanks
It depends on the situation. We recommend changing your pads often to get the optimal performance from the pads and compounds. If you think about breaking a car down into four quadrants, that would be at least one pad for each quadrant. In that case, yes, prime the pad each time. If you are using the same pad, you probably won’t need as much polish.
sorry for silly question & my english skills, but when primming the pad, can we use any compound (using step 3 compound when doing step 1 correction) or use specific compound (using step 1 compound only on step 1 correction, step 2 compound on step 2 correction, etc.) ?
Our RUPES pad and compound systems have been designed for optimal performance. Typically you would use the specific compound for the pad you are using. In the RUPES D-A system, if priming a D-A medium wool pad (yellow), you would use the D-A Fine compound (yellow label bottle). A D-A coarse pad (blue) would use the D-A Coarse compound (blue label bottle). Our Ultra-Fine pads (white) would be used for our UNO Pure compound. If you are using an LH19E, you would use the Rotary specific compounds designed for each specific pad. However, if you are performing a 1-step correction using something like our UNO Protect, you can prime the pad using that compound. Hope this helps!
There are several differences between compound formulations beyond water based. All compounds have some type of lubrication systems in them, typically a rotary compound will be more lubricated due to the high amount of heat and friction generated by the tool.
1) Actually hand polishing is the oldest method of paint polishing. 2) If you're getting 'pad drag' which is friction, it's the fault of the polish, the formula is incorrectly lubricated and you should purchase a better compound from a manufacturer that knows how to make compound to suit the pad it's designed to be used in combination with. 3) Tilting the pad on a edge actually provides more pressure to the edge, as you demonstrated, it also makes the procedure more dangerous, this is the opposite of what to do.
Please stop the background music. If you're trying to teach us something it's easier if we only hear what the "teacher" says. The music only adds annoyance.
Although I have three Rupes DA polishers, I just finally received your rotary machine a couple days ago. Don't have a test panel yet. You mentioned priming the pad by picking up the bead and let it run flat on the panel about 20 seconds. Using a rotary machine with any of your pad liquid combinations, would that "prime time" in one spot be enough to burn through a lot of clear coat? I saw your video about the proper priming of your blue coarse DA pads (thank you) and will use that method later this week on a project. I know that will be safe with the DA; however, what about the rotary tool?
Hey Jim - unless the paint is very soft and/or thin already there would be no cause for concern. However, if that were the condition of the paint we wouldn't recommend a rotary for that application anyway.
Absolutely! RUPES history is actually in the collison repair/body shop industry. All of our formulas are body shop safe and extensively tested to ensure they provide maximum performance on fresh paint. While RUPES is popular in the detailing industry, that is a phenomena that is recent. Since 1947 RUPES has been a recognized leader in specialized equipment for body shops.
Great presentation Jason! For a while now, I've been debating what polisher to get...I love the Rupes products, and would like to know your thoughts on something: I've enjoyed detailing by hand for friends and family as a hobby, but due to a wrist issue and recent elbow nerve surgery, I'm liking the idea of just doing a good wash and light polish on daily drivers in good condition. Because of the arm issue, I'm thinking the rotary would be my tool of choice, because it would have less vibration, it weighs less than a typical DA, and I've heard it finishes better as a polishing tool? Oh, and would you say the rotary is quieter than the DA, or not? I developed a real aversion to high pitch sounds. If only our bodies never aged..lol. thank you much
Thanks for watching and commenting James! There is a lot to unpack there, so we'll give you some short answers here and if you want to discuss in more detail feel free to reach out using the contact us page on our site and we can get more specific: - Operator comfort for your sensitive elbow: While rotary is naturally balanced because it has no offset what you didn't consider is the lateral movement once you put the pad to the paint. So the movement is balanced, but the feedback you get when using it is not, if that makes sense. Of all the movement options rotary is the hardest on the operator due to its tendency to 'steer' and push back. Our random orbitals, while used as a system, are the lowest vibration tools you'll find. They don't push and steer like rotary or gear-driven, making them ideal for users who are sensitive to the stresses of polishing. One of the primary reasons to adopt BigFoot random orbital is the operator comfort and ergonomics vs. other polishing solutions. - Weight of tools: The weight between our LH19E and LHR15 is less than 0.4kg (less than 1 lbs) so it really don't have an impact. And combined with the point above the random orbital is going to be far more comfortable for you to use. - Finishing: That would be incorrect. The random orbital has a much higher potential for finishing. With rotary you have to contend with holograms (trails) that arguably are not possible to finish without to some degree and would require an extreme amount of skill and years of learning to master. With random orbital you can easily finish in most situations to a very high degree, and can be getting the desired results in as little as a weekend of practice. It is actually a common practice in some shops to cut with rotary and finish with random orbital for this exact reason. - Noise: The LH19E is a double-gear reduced polisher, so while the motor itself isn't that loud, the gearbox has a distinct higher pitched whine to it. Of the two tools the random orbital would have a lower, more tolerable, sound.
@@RUPES Thank you! This is why I love your training videos..you teach well, and you answer questions with excellent information like that. Thank You to Jason, Dylan, and Todd...you guys have been a great source of information. You market the brand well and inspire others with your training and enthusiasm...You guys get to work with great products and have fun teaching what you love to do...its a dream job! Have you chosen a giveaway prize/winner from the LinkedIn post I saw recently for people who commented?
Jason, just you going over this gentleman’s answer, Is a reason you will go down as the Best Detailer Trainer in the land. Not once did I hear you speak about a “Book you wrote 20yrs ago” “not once did I hear a condescending tone” and Jason, I’ve watched a lot of your past and present info, I’ve learned so much. I know why Rupes hired you, and the rest of your staff, horrible with names but the younger guy who always screws with Mike P (now 3D) is the best, love to have a beer with him Some day here in Florida
@@RUPES please tell Todd I’m Sorry about my Short Term Memory issue not knowing his name, his subtle jabs in the past made guys like me laugh, the sarcasm on those older Autogeek informercials are hilarious
which one of the rotary pads can remove the holograms?, i dont want to use the DA system, so i donno what to choose for my rotary to remove the holos on black paint :(
Thank you for your question. From a technical standpoint our team would argue that due to the movement it is not always possible to completely remove a rotary hologram on some paints. This is why so many rotary systems rely on a glazing step or have heavy fillers in their final polish - to mask these defects. The highest potential for what you are asking would be with the white rotary foam pads and UNO Pure, but not a guarantee as that combination does not contain any fillers to mask the finish.
Hi Jason. I have a question. I was doing a paint correction work on my customer’s car to remove watermarks. The car was not properly maintained for years so the watermarks were very thick. I encountered a fascinating issue with the car front bonnet where the watermarks reappear again but less visible. I was sure after compounding and wipe it down with IPA the watermarks was removed. I asked the car owner if the car has been repainted and he said yes. So I had to redo the compounding process again and fortunately this time the watermarks is gone for good. So my question is, what caused the watermarks to reappear?
That would most likely be a phenomena known as dieback and is related to paint swelling. Heat introduced to the paint during the polishing process causes the paint to swell, as it does it gives the impression that the defect has been removed. As the paint cools and settles back to its normal state (sometimes taking days) the defect returns. You can learn more about dieback in our video about the negative impacts of heat in the polishing process: ua-cam.com/video/NX5n2q09jlA/v-deo.html
Heat generation can depend on a lot of things, including operator technique, ambient conditions, or choice of consumables vs. the surface being worked on. We're happy to help troubleshoot your heat issues if you reach out to us directly: www.rupes.com/contact-us
It all depends on how thin you are talking about. We always recommend using a thickness gage on several places to determine the average for each area. Anything less than 3mm is risky to correct. Best thing to do is to start with the least aggressive pad and compound and see how the paint reacts to a test spot. If there is no change, increase the aggressiveness of the pad and compound until you get your desired results. Always make sure that when you test each combination to test on a new spot. Hope that helps!
picking up the bead, back in 97 a guy in a suit trained me with his products, not one spot of polish ended up on his suit. I was amazed
HA! Thats the goal... people often ask why our team wears black shirts in the field when doing demonstrations - it is so we can prove you can polish surfaces without slinging compound!
I learned with a 7 inch
Great video guys!
Thanks for watching!
"Picking up the bead"... that has got to be the smoothest thing I've ever seen! Hahaha. 2yr later and this video is still helping people. Thanks for the video, Rupes!
Ivan Lacroix has always said that he prefers the rotary for finishing use a DA for cutting and polishing
My first rupes polisher was rotary and i realy love it
👍
That is great. We're happy you love your RUPES Rotary.
Love my rupes rotary. The vibrations from the da give me a headache after a bit. Rotary smoothness is unmatched
Glad to hear it. If you ever have a chance to attend training we can demonstrate for you how our orbital tools should operate with virtually no vibration. But good to hear you're happy with the LH19E!
Sir you are a great, I like the way you explained every single point. I didn’t have to go back to look at the video one more time like I usually do with other instructors. Thank you
Thank you for watching!
just bought a lh19e, watched all your videos about rotary. Already have a test panel to test my new toy
Awesome to hear! Thanks for watching. Enjoy the LH19E and let us know what you think!
Where are the polishers manufactured? Thank you
Now I am not completely new to detailing, but I used a DA only so far. Are there things that a rotary can do that a DA can't?
I don't know about anyone else but I find rotary gives a better finish than da when used correctly. LH19E is a beautiful machine worth every penny.
That is a debatable statement, just given the mechanics of the movement, but regardless we're happy you're getting the results you want and in the end that is all that matters!
Great tips I like the one on not burning the edges. I love the rotary tool.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting.
I am not necessarily at Jasons level but after 28 years with a rotary (began in 1993), these are my recommendations for new users. Make sure the pad is perfectly centred on the plate or use the 3M double sided pads and adaptor if you want a guaranteed perfect centred pad every time. Having it fractionally off centre or more than that creates vibration and your likely to induce fine swirls. Keep your pads clean, run flat almost always but if tilting, always finish with one pass with the pad flat. The higher speed you run, the faster the product dries, try to avoid using a pad dry from the start, dampen it a tad (ONR/tiny drop of parrafin oil, nanolex optimiser, water). dont use one speed then stop unless your running at 900 rpm or slower, refine as you correct by reducing the machine speed to make any holograms you may leave mega fine or leave none at all. Yes it can be done.though a scratch pattern can be seen under intense scrutiny which most light and the sun will never show. use deburred wool to eliminate the scouring that the barbs/hooks in traditional wool can cause, not all wool pads are created equal as there are different grades of wool (graded in micron size) and some synthetics also exist, these run hotter than natural wool). NZ super fine grade wool works great on any machine type and finishes well. Be smooth, use one arm speed and dont deviate except for increasing arm speed at the last pass to reduce your chances of holograms. Buy a quality machine not a cheapy. Rupes, Fein, Metabo PE15-RT20, Flex. The cheap ones can lack the torque and smoothness of a quality one
Thanks as always for your insight.
@@RUPES thankyou, i do try to keep a somewhat low profile these days as ive been too opinionated in the past. However i do have a passion to share the stuff i do know to help others. Knowledge unshared is knowledge wasted. Finish quality is more important than speed of cut too, customer wont be happy if you corrected their car faster than previous timeframes but the finish isn't up to scratch (pardon the pun), thats what made me successful. A focus on the finish whilst being efficient as best as possible and no cutting corners.
@@matthewgibb2640 Hi Matthew thanks for all that valuable information, i have to specifically ask, is possible to leave no Holograms at all? Even on softer paints? Maybe with a 5" and low speed, no pressure at all and the finest pad and compound avalaible? What do you think?
@@ToyotaAristo hello and thanks for the comment. Yes you can finish hologram free with a rotary but it often takes a very high skill level. I have done it many many times. Finish at 700 rpm or less.
@@matthewgibb2640 Thanks for all your advices! Hope you have a nice day!
I've always done it by hand😥 looking to change
I that this guy was whith meguiars
Does Rupee make a cordless rotary?
Always love to watch your Videos Jason! Every single one of them is top of the notch!!! Keep it up!
Thank you!
I started using the rotary in 1982, still use it at my shop. Currently using the DeWalt 849x but thinking of buying the Rupes rotary, I have the Rupes Mark I and II which works well.
Jason thanks 🙏 for that information how to prime a rotary pad And this is the same method to prime the wool pad.
When priming with any rotary pad, picking up the bead is what we recommend. Thanks for watching!
Shinemate vs rupes which is best meshine
Rupes for tech and flexing, shinemate for good value
How much pressure should i apply?
is the rupes rotary polisher handle able to install on the right side of the polisher? because im a left handed, thank you
Guy, could upload a video using the blue coarse polish and pad? I’m finding a lot of dusting issues with it. (Rotary) Thanks
Are you using the rotary products?
@@RUPES I am indeed. The LHr19e and the blue coarse pad and polish. I’m sure there is an issue with my technique/using the right amount of product etc A tutorial would be great if you can please. Have tried searching but couldn’t find one. Thanks for the reply.
That’s very odd. Please reach out to our customer service using the link in the description in the video so we can help troubleshoot and exchange pictures to better understand the issue
@@RUPES awesome, will do, thanks!
sir why is it that when i use rotary, the machine keeps on jumping/bumpy?
Useful...like always!!
Glad you think so! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Would love a video going more into the rotary polish formulas. How different are they. What specifically separates a rotary polish from a DA polish. Maybe use them both and demonstrate the differences and advantages that make the rotary specific formula a better choice. 👍✌
Thanks for the topic ideas. Might be a perfect fit for our FAQ series.
I’ve only been in the game for around a year, only been using rupes rotary combinations and I would 110% agree with the learning curve, and still a way to go, but my goodness the quality over anything else in my eyes just rips through as low as p2000 wet!!!
You can remove p1200 with a rotary and a heavy cut, or lower
I run all the Rupes stuff except I have yet to pick up the rotary you all have. I have however used your rotary compound and polish and was impressed by the feel of the liquid itself the polish felt extremely smooth. Maybe I’ll pickup your rotary tool at some point. I’m seriously considering it, especially since my LHR21 is at your repair facility right now.
a question about the picking up method. After blowing out the pad with a tornador, you repeat the same process with the same amount of polish or reduce it a bit to not saturate? thanks
It depends on the situation. We recommend changing your pads often to get the optimal performance from the pads and compounds. If you think about breaking a car down into four quadrants, that would be at least one pad for each quadrant. In that case, yes, prime the pad each time. If you are using the same pad, you probably won’t need as much polish.
sorry for silly question & my english skills,
but when primming the pad, can we use any compound (using step 3 compound when doing step 1 correction)
or use specific compound (using step 1 compound only on step 1 correction, step 2 compound on step 2 correction, etc.) ?
Our RUPES pad and compound systems have been designed for optimal performance. Typically you would use the specific compound for the pad you are using. In the RUPES D-A system, if priming a D-A medium wool pad (yellow), you would use the D-A Fine compound (yellow label bottle). A D-A coarse pad (blue) would use the D-A Coarse compound (blue label bottle). Our Ultra-Fine pads (white) would be used for our UNO Pure compound. If you are using an LH19E, you would use the Rotary specific compounds designed for each specific pad. However, if you are performing a 1-step correction using something like our UNO Protect, you can prime the pad using that compound. Hope this helps!
what is the difference between water-based and oily compounds?would water base be for rotating and oil base would be for DA? thanks
There are several differences between compound formulations beyond water based. All compounds have some type of lubrication systems in them, typically a rotary compound will be more lubricated due to the high amount of heat and friction generated by the tool.
Next episode... How to properly remove a bad aftermarket coating from a paint job..
Great suggestion. We'll see if we can put some content together around that topic.
1) Actually hand polishing is the oldest method of paint polishing.
2) If you're getting 'pad drag' which is friction, it's the fault of the polish, the formula is incorrectly lubricated and you should purchase a better compound from a manufacturer that knows how to make compound to suit the pad it's designed to be used in combination with.
3) Tilting the pad on a edge actually provides more pressure to the edge, as you demonstrated, it also makes the procedure more dangerous, this is the opposite of what to do.
Please stop the background music. If you're trying to teach us something it's easier if we only hear what the "teacher" says. The music only adds annoyance.
We appreciate your honest feedback. We will make sure any music we have in future videos doesn’t overpower the talking and teaching.
Although I have three Rupes DA polishers, I just finally received your rotary machine a couple days ago. Don't have a test panel yet. You mentioned priming the pad by picking up the bead and let it run flat on the panel about 20 seconds. Using a rotary machine with any of your pad liquid combinations, would that "prime time" in one spot be enough to burn through a lot of clear coat? I saw your video about the proper priming of your blue coarse DA pads (thank you) and will use that method later this week on a project. I know that will be safe with the DA; however, what about the rotary tool?
Hey Jim - unless the paint is very soft and/or thin already there would be no cause for concern. However, if that were the condition of the paint we wouldn't recommend a rotary for that application anyway.
@@RUPES Thank you for the reply. Not only does it help teach/inform, but create loyal customers.
Can you use the same DA pads on the rupes rotary? Or do you have to buy the rotary pads
Can the compounds be used y recently painted vehicles?
Absolutely! RUPES history is actually in the collison repair/body shop industry. All of our formulas are body shop safe and extensively tested to ensure they provide maximum performance on fresh paint. While RUPES is popular in the detailing industry, that is a phenomena that is recent. Since 1947 RUPES has been a recognized leader in specialized equipment for body shops.
@@RUPES thanks!!
Great presentation Jason! For a while now, I've been debating what polisher to get...I love the Rupes products, and would like to know your thoughts on something: I've enjoyed detailing by hand for friends and family as a hobby, but due to a wrist issue and recent elbow nerve surgery, I'm liking the idea of just doing a good wash and light polish on daily drivers in good condition. Because of the arm issue, I'm thinking the rotary would be my tool of choice, because it would have less vibration, it weighs less than a typical DA, and I've heard it finishes better as a polishing tool? Oh, and would you say the rotary is quieter than the DA, or not? I developed a real aversion to high pitch sounds. If only our bodies never aged..lol. thank you much
Thanks for watching and commenting James! There is a lot to unpack there, so we'll give you some short answers here and if you want to discuss in more detail feel free to reach out using the contact us page on our site and we can get more specific:
- Operator comfort for your sensitive elbow: While rotary is naturally balanced because it has no offset what you didn't consider is the lateral movement once you put the pad to the paint. So the movement is balanced, but the feedback you get when using it is not, if that makes sense. Of all the movement options rotary is the hardest on the operator due to its tendency to 'steer' and push back. Our random orbitals, while used as a system, are the lowest vibration tools you'll find. They don't push and steer like rotary or gear-driven, making them ideal for users who are sensitive to the stresses of polishing. One of the primary reasons to adopt BigFoot random orbital is the operator comfort and ergonomics vs. other polishing solutions.
- Weight of tools: The weight between our LH19E and LHR15 is less than 0.4kg (less than 1 lbs) so it really don't have an impact. And combined with the point above the random orbital is going to be far more comfortable for you to use.
- Finishing: That would be incorrect. The random orbital has a much higher potential for finishing. With rotary you have to contend with holograms (trails) that arguably are not possible to finish without to some degree and would require an extreme amount of skill and years of learning to master. With random orbital you can easily finish in most situations to a very high degree, and can be getting the desired results in as little as a weekend of practice. It is actually a common practice in some shops to cut with rotary and finish with random orbital for this exact reason.
- Noise: The LH19E is a double-gear reduced polisher, so while the motor itself isn't that loud, the gearbox has a distinct higher pitched whine to it. Of the two tools the random orbital would have a lower, more tolerable, sound.
@@RUPES Thank you! This is why I love your training videos..you teach well, and you answer questions with excellent information like that. Thank You to Jason, Dylan, and Todd...you guys have been a great source of information. You market the brand well and inspire others with your training and enthusiasm...You guys get to work with great products and have fun teaching what you love to do...its a dream job! Have you chosen a giveaway prize/winner from the LinkedIn post I saw recently for people who commented?
Jason, just you going over this gentleman’s answer, Is a reason you will go down as the Best Detailer Trainer in the land. Not once did I hear you speak about a “Book you wrote 20yrs ago” “not once did I hear a condescending tone” and Jason, I’ve watched a lot of your past and present info, I’ve learned so much. I know why Rupes hired you, and the rest of your staff, horrible with names but the younger guy who always screws with Mike P (now 3D) is the best, love to have a beer with him
Some day here in Florida
Thanks Brannon. Jason actually doesn’t respond to the comments here, but we’ll pass along your compliments to him 😁
@@RUPES please tell Todd I’m Sorry about my Short Term Memory issue not knowing his name, his subtle jabs in the past made guys like me laugh, the sarcasm on those older Autogeek informercials are hilarious
which one of the rotary pads can remove the holograms?, i dont want to use the DA system, so i donno what to choose for my rotary to remove the holos on black paint :(
Thank you for your question. From a technical standpoint our team would argue that due to the movement it is not always possible to completely remove a rotary hologram on some paints. This is why so many rotary systems rely on a glazing step or have heavy fillers in their final polish - to mask these defects.
The highest potential for what you are asking would be with the white rotary foam pads and UNO Pure, but not a guarantee as that combination does not contain any fillers to mask the finish.
@@RUPES thanks for your reply, i will get both of these products today for sure.
Hi Jason. I have a question. I was doing a paint correction work on my customer’s car to remove watermarks. The car was not properly maintained for years so the watermarks were very thick. I encountered a fascinating issue with the car front bonnet where the watermarks reappear again but less visible. I was sure after compounding and wipe it down with IPA the watermarks was removed. I asked the car owner if the car has been repainted and he said yes. So I had to redo the compounding process again and fortunately this time the watermarks is gone for good. So my question is, what caused the watermarks to reappear?
That would most likely be a phenomena known as dieback and is related to paint swelling. Heat introduced to the paint during the polishing process causes the paint to swell, as it does it gives the impression that the defect has been removed. As the paint cools and settles back to its normal state (sometimes taking days) the defect returns. You can learn more about dieback in our video about the negative impacts of heat in the polishing process:
ua-cam.com/video/NX5n2q09jlA/v-deo.html
@@RUPES thank you for the information and the link. I really appreciate it.
Saya mau satu produk ruppes .. please
Anda dapat membeli produk dari distributor resmi. Gunakan pencari di rupes.com untuk menemukan opsi di wilayah Anda
What light is attached to the cart??
A generic LED shop work light from a local hardware store.
@@RUPES any chance you’re willing to share the name? I like the black/white look of it. Thanks!
Why rypes to much hot after 5minutes working
Heat generation can depend on a lot of things, including operator technique, ambient conditions, or choice of consumables vs. the surface being worked on. We're happy to help troubleshoot your heat issues if you reach out to us directly: www.rupes.com/contact-us
What is the least aggressive way to correct a car with thin paint without any protection included ? Is that uno pure or something else
It all depends on how thin you are talking about. We always recommend using a thickness gage on several places to determine the average for each area. Anything less than 3mm is risky to correct. Best thing to do is to start with the least aggressive pad and compound and see how the paint reacts to a test spot. If there is no change, increase the aggressiveness of the pad and compound until you get your desired results. Always make sure that when you test each combination to test on a new spot. Hope that helps!
@@RUPES do you have a polish and pad lighter than uno pure or is that the least aggressive
UNO Pure is our ultrafine (least aggressive) product