REPOINTING BRICKWORK With a Hawk and Trowel | With Handy Tips.
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- Repointing brickwork with a hawk and trowel is extremely satisfying when you know how it’s done. In this video you can see the whole process and pick up handy little tips along the way. Even treated myself to a new hawk and trowel on this video @oxtools
To get the right tools for the job I have taken the time to pick out some good quality tools for you to buy via amazon. Find the links below:
I hope you enjoy the video and keep an eye out for our next video on colour matching mortar. Don’t forget to subscribe and turn on notifications so you don’t miss it!
Credit to- Musician: Liqwyd Track: Night out and Musician : Not the king Track: My Go Away Dream
Thank you, I have never done pointing but decided I needed to give it a go and your video showed me exactly what I needed to do and the tools I need so will buy a hawk instead of using that bit of hardboard
Great video. Half way through re-pointing the back of my house after watching your videos. Appreciate the free content! 👍
That’s great, I’m glad that you have found the content useful 👍 it’s a shame people can’t add photos on here. I would love to see the results. Don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already for your chance to win a Hilti angle grinder worth £180
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington I'll send you a message via your website. Got a couple of other quick questions too. Cheers
I’ll look out for your email 👍
Another great video, what mix did you use for this one ? Thanks
Hi Carl, thanks for the comment. It was a 4:1 again on this one, with a plasticiser. Getting the right building sand is quite important, some building sands will make the mortar more orange once dried.
Knuckle drag on these Heather’s or keymar bricks are like using a match on a match box
Love your videos. Going to repoint my fireplace. Do you have to do the whole job in one go or can you do some one day and some the next day?
Thank you 👍 sure, you can do some one day and a bit the next. Just make sure you gauge the mortar correctly every time so the colour is consistent and try and finish end to end ideally. Good luck!
Can you do a breakdown on mortar ratios and when to use lime etc that whould be very usefully thank you in advance if you can
Did you mention your mix ratio? great video
Really informative videos thank you. Just wondering why you did not mention the broken bricks just by the tap. As a job repointing would this normally be worked around or do you add cost on if extra work is needed? Just trying to figure out the scope of the job and what is extra :)
Your welcome, we did replace the bricks by the tap but didn’t include it within the video. Always give the customer the option to replace broken bricks as it improves the overall finish of the job.
Hi, what width striker do you use? Thank you
12mm is a good all rounder
Wondering if you had todo an acid wash?
No acid washing needed on my jobs Bob 😉
Just take the drain pipe off
It was cast iron at the bottom Dennis otherwise I would have, thanks for the comment though.
A master at his craft, magical watching a professional that knows what he's doing, I've first hand knowledge of Alex's work and can recommend him without hesitation, another great video.
i just started repointing a few months ago, wish i had found your channel sooner, enjoying the content. wish we had a dust extractor, grinding chimneys creates quite the amount of dust.
I have old soot on my exterior bricks, can you recommend how to remove it please? Thx in advance
Hi mate brilliant watch and very helpful video, what ratio on sand to cement would you recommend? Thanks 👍🏼
It depends on what bricks you are pointing between and the previous mix, but a 4 sand 1 cement mix is generally the most common nowadays. Ensure the sand you get is a good one, as variations in sand can have a huge impact on the colour etc. try a few different types on a board and leave to dry before working on the wall.
So refreshing... a thoughtful, quiet, respectful treatment of what is an art.
Do you use any lime in your mortar mix mate?
Yes sometimes we would do 5:1:1/6:1:1 if it’s required to match the existing, makes it nice and creamy and no need to add plasticiser.
Great videos and very informative, when using lime in the mix would a 3-1-1 mix be too strong ? It's for on a house about 100m from the South Coast seafront.
Many thanks in advance as I continue watching more of your videos
Extremely satisfying to watch! Currently learning pointing on the job, your technique has helped massively! Thank You 😁
Would be good to see a detailed video on hand mixing mortar. I get there in the end, but it never seems to have that creamy look but bit of stiffness under compression. Something showing the stages of adding water from too dry until too wet would be good.
Great videos. Detailed, calm and no showmanship.
Thanks for the comment, I can certainly do that for you. Are you adding any form of additive? Or using hydrated lime with the cement mix? It’s always tricky getting it just right but I’ll do a video for you anyway 👍
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington I use just cememt and sand. If plain cement I add additive. Sometimes I use the cements with additive already in. Similar results with both.
Ok, did you want me to do a video knocking up on a spot board or in a bucket? (Smaller mixes?)
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington I do smaller amounts in a flexi tub.
Ok no worries I’ll do a video for you 👍
Take my hat off for your patients 🎩 I use a gun myself, soo much quicker without a doubt. Good for DIY maybe but you won't catch me repointing a gable end with a hawk and trowel 😂😂
Thanks, that’s fair enough. I’m a bit old fashioned I suppose but a lot quicker than in the videos. How long does it take you to cut and point a 60m gable end?
Nice work but I love my pointing gun, cheers (futureproof pointing)
I specialize in brick and stone pointing. There's tons of$ in it more than structural masonry
Is it the best way to use a drill to get the old mix out ?
It’s fairly quick and less time consuming for areas that you can’t access with a grinder, but would certainly not remove all the mortar on a whole wall with a drill. You can use a plug-in chisel or comb hammer if you’d prefer but as mentioned in the video, if the mortar is too hard and your going to damage bricks, leave it.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington thanks very much
Down pipe comes off half job
Sounds like your an expert Aaron!!
Nice job. Simple but effective. I'll be repointing once side of our house soon so I hope I can get it up to that kind of standard. Got an old brick wall to practice on first.
Hi whats the best ratio to mix sand and cement for pointing ? thanks
The standard mix is generally 4 sand and 1 cement but it should really be judged on the existing mortar and brick porosity.
Thanks mate@@CoastalWallTiesRustington
These videos are great and giving me some confidence to do repoint work on my house, but I have a few questions. Do you have any recommendations for repointing with a rake finish? What's the best way to patch into existing mortar that doesn't need fixed or is it difficult to hide the transition? If only doing patch can you get away with out needing a power grinder? Do I need to do anything special for transitioning to wood (The ends of my rafters go through the last layer of bricks, and some of the gaps are bigger than 5cm)?
Thank you, if you wanted a raked finish you can buy a mortar raker (chariot) or grab a headed nail and leave it protruding out of a piece of wood to the depth you require and rake back once mortar has firmed up slightly.
Matching to existing mortar at joins depends on the finish really but a gentle wipe with a finger maybe enough.
Angle grinders are better but if it’s a soft mortar you could probably get away with either a hammer drill on chisel or a hammer and plug-in chisel.
If you can cut a brick into the gaps between the rafters that would be better, alternatively you could use some expanding foam and cut back then go over with mortar to a flat finish and cut the edge.
Hopefully I have answered your questions well enough without seeing your wall.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Thank you for such a quick response. I sent an email to you with some pictures of what needs to be fixed to see if you have any additional ideas/pointers, hopefully its able to get to you. Thanks again.
Steve, I have replied to your email just in case you hadn’t seen it.
The one who knows,knows .How long does the mixture last to not dry out?
Depends on the wetness/dryness of the mix Joel and ambient temperature but say about an hour in average conditions.
sir my complements on your work I bought a old brick house an have to repoint it , is there a premix mortar i can buy to come close to the old mortar ?
Thank you, if you go to Mike wye associates website, they have some good samples for pre mixed mortar that should hopefully come close to something your after. Very helpful people too.
Also try ty-mawr ltd (lime org uk) they do mail in mortar matching/sample boxes etc.
Ty-mawr ltd do a great black sand in 25kg bags too 👍
I have 2 thin rods which were in the mortar that have rusted. The West side that gets all the worst of the weather. Should I replace them ? If so what are they called. Also doing chimney which mortar was taken out pretty deep bc it was crumbling. Kind if intimated by it but was wondering if I should mix some Portland cement in with mortar since we get rainy and snow in Ohio USA.
Hi, without seeing any pictures I can’t really comment on the need of the steel rods, are they above an opening (such as a window or door?) what mortar type are you using? A mortar that is more weather resistant would be ideal as the chimney is highly exposed
You say (when rubbing down) to 'listen to the metal on the brick'? Why's that please, to ensure muck pushed into the joint?
It’s so that the mortar is pressed in but also to provide a nice clean edge once brushed off
Complete novice here, going to try just a small patch that's broken off. what is the size of your tuck pointer tool? what's best for this? thank you!
10mm tuck pointing trowel, I’m pretty sure we have a link in one of the other videos to buy the exact one from Amazon. If your just doing a small patch use a bucket and just knock up a small mix using a cup to gauge the sand and cement. Don’t put too much water in though as it will only need a touch.
You mentioned that you had some stains on the finished wall. How did you remove those stains? Do you have a video on cleaning the finished wall?
Hi Michael, I don’t have a video as of yet in brick cleaning, but can certainly do one if that will be of use?
Thanks for that - confidence levels upped 🤔
No worries!
What size striker please? Should it fit 'inside' the mortar lines please?
I normally use a 10mm but 8mm is also ok. It should fit in the joints ideally.
I take the downpipe off so much quicker 👍
It was half cast iron otherwise I would have taken it off
When it comes to the damp membrane do you grind and point it as the other joints? I'm probably over thinking it but was wondering about possibly bridging issues.
Thanks for taking the time to post a video.
You can grind out and repoint the damp course but only if you are sure that no damage will occur to the membrane itself. I won’t go into the bridging scenario too much but providing you have two distinct joints above and below the membrane it will be fine.
I've yet to find a muck tub that doesn't have handles that split, seems you haven't either :) Nice video, looking forward to more. As a leftie thought you'd start from the right btw.
🤣 the tubs are awful!! Some even only last a day. No, always work left to right so your working against yourself 👍
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Ahh okay, I've been going backward. If you ever find an unbreakable tub definitely need a short video review on that :)
Apparently the rubber tubs that scaffolders use are good but never seen any. I’ll have a look 👍