My trees are 6-7 years in the ground. As your trees get older and establish that upper canopy of protection, they'll stay warmer and keep leaves/set fruit during the cool months. Variety makes a difference too so the more diversity, the better.
Also, oxolates do not allow the absorption of calcium into the bones and in the middle age, hip fractures are the number one cause of death within one or two years. Thanks for awesome video.
Found this info regarding oxolates on the Kendall Reagan Nutrition Center: Should I be Eating a Low Oxalate Diet? In most cases, a low-oxalate diet is not necessary. In fact, it is recommended to include many oxalate-containing plant foods in the diet as evidence suggests that these foods play a vital role in disease prevention. However, those who experience frequent oxalate kidney stones or have certain genetic and digestive disorders may want to speak with a physician and registered dietitian for guidance on treatment, which may include appropriately monitoring oxalate consumption.
Hi how are you? can i ask you about what is the most fig variety that have no problems with the hot weather at all in your opinion and in the same time the most produce variety in my cuntry the most famous varieties for produceing and handl the hot weather are 2 one of them is brown Turkey but for me i don't like brown Turkey i mean its good but not that good and the second variety is a syrian very sweet fig and have a thin skin we call it jasim fig and its a very very produce fig variety
Hi! If I could only grow one fig variety it would be the one from Lebanon called Red Lebanese Bekaa Valley. It produces well, has excellent taste, and handles the dry heat.
In my experience, chill hours usually impact the tree's flowering/fruit and not leaves. I wouldn't worry. Most of my trees are still half in leaves and half bare. It's still early and not consistently warm yet.
I found the remnants of several star fruit in a jaboticaba planter nearby a couple days ago. I should probably set up a trail camera to confirm. I'm not certain if it's a group of rats or just one but need to set up a trap soon.
I recently relocated my lemon tree by my fig tree. My fig tree is doing fine, but my lemon tree is losing leaves and looking sad.. how far apart should they be? Thanks!!
Citrus trees can be on dwarf or standard rootstocks. If your lemon tree is on standard rootstock, it can grow to 30’ x 20’. You can keep even a tree on standard rootstock small if you keep up on pruning. Spacing is really dependent on your pruning practices. If you don’t want to prune often, then I would leave a 15’+ distance between it and its neighbors. Transplanting your tree puts it through stress as it loses roots in the process. I recommend giving it some B1 and putting shade cloth above the tree to help it recover. Fall is generally a better time to transplant citrus in my experience. I hope it pulls through!
6 hours in general. In containers, those 6 should be limited to the morning hours but if in the ground, I've seen better fruit production when the sunlight exposure is in the afternoon.
@@EnlightenmentGarden always a tough decision on where to place a tree! Have you had any success with persimmon? Don’t recall you mentioning one in your videos
@@epigeneticnerd4244 I've tried growing persimmon a few times. Fuyu and Sajo were both planted in 2016. Both declined the next year (due to too much direct sun) and were removed. I currently have a small Hachiya in the ground (planted last year) I'm hoping it will grow now that the competing Shangri La mulberry is gone.
Upfront, I solarized the bermuda grass during the summer (with weed fabric/no water) and then used cardboard sheet mulching to suppress grass/weeds with 6-8" of wood chips on top. The wood chips keep weeds away; I have no real issues with weeds in the mulched areas
If you are located in the Phoenix area, Greenfield Citrus Nursery in Mesa offers the best selection and quality. A local Summerwinds also could have them right now but call first to confirm. I recommend buying one on sour orange roostock as that is proven to do well in our clay soils.
@@benlabarre8072 To set and hold pods, they definitely need higher humidity than our climate provides. They fruit wonderfully in California zone 9B even fairly young. @TropicalCentralValley is living proof.
@@EnlightenmentGarden I wonder if that picture you saw of a ripened pod, was on a yard that gets flood irrigation. Maybe that would be enough moisture.
@@benlabarre8072 The person (Hans) who posted the picture lives on a normal suburban lot in North Phoenix. No flood irrigation; he is on city water. The tree was 6' tall at planting (3 or 5-gallon) and produced the pod 2.5 years later. He does not have an amazing micro-climate and acknowledged he did nothing unusual for its care. I am growing ice cream bean for shade and the nitrogen fixing ability. If I get fruit, that's just a bonus but is not something I expect.
Awesome video, love them chicken
Thanks!
Thanks for the fruit tour ,such a great orchard you have
Wow, my guavas have hardly woke up at this point, thats great that you have fruit!
My trees are 6-7 years in the ground. As your trees get older and establish that upper canopy of protection, they'll stay warmer and keep leaves/set fruit during the cool months. Variety makes a difference too so the more diversity, the better.
Also, oxolates do not allow the absorption of calcium into the bones and in the middle age, hip fractures are the number one cause of death within one or two years. Thanks for awesome video.
Found this info regarding oxolates on the Kendall Reagan Nutrition Center:
Should I be Eating a Low Oxalate Diet?
In most cases, a low-oxalate diet is not necessary. In fact, it is recommended to include many oxalate-containing plant foods in the diet as evidence suggests that these foods play a vital role in disease prevention. However, those who experience frequent oxalate kidney stones or have certain genetic and digestive disorders may want to speak with a physician and registered dietitian for guidance on treatment, which may include appropriately monitoring oxalate consumption.
Hi how are you? can i ask you about what is the most fig variety that have no problems with the hot weather at all in your opinion and in the same time the most produce variety
in my cuntry the most famous varieties for produceing and handl the hot weather are 2 one of them is brown Turkey but for me i don't like brown Turkey i mean its good but not that good and the second variety is a syrian very sweet fig and have a thin skin we call it jasim fig and its a very very produce fig variety
Hi! If I could only grow one fig variety it would be the one from Lebanon called Red Lebanese Bekaa Valley. It produces well, has excellent taste, and handles the dry heat.
If a Florida Prince peach tree only leaves on half the tree, does that mean the tree is permanently damaged? Not enough chill hours perhaps? Thanks.
In my experience, chill hours usually impact the tree's flowering/fruit and not leaves. I wouldn't worry. Most of my trees are still half in leaves and half bare. It's still early and not consistently warm yet.
@@EnlightenmentGarden Oh that is good news. I wasn't waiting long enough.
Pack rats found your star fruit...I think. They come for my mulberries.
I found the remnants of several star fruit in a jaboticaba planter nearby a couple days ago. I should probably set up a trail camera to confirm. I'm not certain if it's a group of rats or just one but need to set up a trap soon.
I recently relocated my lemon tree by my fig tree. My fig tree is doing fine, but my lemon tree is losing leaves and looking sad.. how far apart should they be? Thanks!!
Citrus trees can be on dwarf or standard rootstocks. If your lemon tree is on standard rootstock, it can grow to 30’ x 20’. You can keep even a tree on standard rootstock small if you keep up on pruning. Spacing is really dependent on your pruning practices. If you don’t want to prune often, then I would leave a 15’+ distance between it and its neighbors. Transplanting your tree puts it through stress as it loses roots in the process. I recommend giving it some B1 and putting shade cloth above the tree to help it recover. Fall is generally a better time to transplant citrus in my experience. I hope it pulls through!
How many hours of direct sun do you think are needed minimum for figs in our AZ climate?
6 hours in general. In containers, those 6 should be limited to the morning hours but if in the ground, I've seen better fruit production when the sunlight exposure is in the afternoon.
@@EnlightenmentGarden always a tough decision on where to place a tree! Have you had any success with persimmon? Don’t recall you mentioning one in your videos
@@epigeneticnerd4244 I've tried growing persimmon a few times. Fuyu and Sajo were both planted in 2016. Both declined the next year (due to too much direct sun) and were removed. I currently have a small Hachiya in the ground (planted last year) I'm hoping it will grow now that the competing Shangri La mulberry is gone.
What do you do for grass/ weed control?
Upfront, I solarized the bermuda grass during the summer (with weed fabric/no water) and then used cardboard sheet mulching to suppress grass/weeds with 6-8" of wood chips on top. The wood chips keep weeds away; I have no real issues with weeds in the mulched areas
@@EnlightenmentGarden Good info, thanks.
I need a grapefruit tree. Do you know where I can find one.
If you are located in the Phoenix area, Greenfield Citrus Nursery in Mesa offers the best selection and quality. A local Summerwinds also could have them right now but call first to confirm. I recommend buying one on sour orange roostock as that is proven to do well in our clay soils.
Have you ever observed a Ice cream bean tree fruit in AZ 9b?
Personally--no. I've seen someone post a picture of a ripened pod on their tree in Phoenix on the Greenlife group.
@@EnlightenmentGarden I suspect they need growing zone 10.
@@benlabarre8072 To set and hold pods, they definitely need higher humidity than our climate provides. They fruit wonderfully in California zone 9B even fairly young. @TropicalCentralValley is living proof.
@@EnlightenmentGarden I wonder if that picture you saw of a ripened pod, was on a yard that gets flood irrigation. Maybe that would be enough moisture.
@@benlabarre8072 The person (Hans) who posted the picture lives on a normal suburban lot in North Phoenix. No flood irrigation; he is on city water. The tree was 6' tall at planting (3 or 5-gallon) and produced the pod 2.5 years later. He does not have an amazing micro-climate and acknowledged he did nothing unusual for its care. I am growing ice cream bean for shade and the nitrogen fixing ability. If I get fruit, that's just a bonus but is not something I expect.