Good Video.. Mine clicks but still changes the Vent Mode etc etc. F*** what People "think". People "thought" storing Crypto with FTX was a good idea. Glad to see it's an easy fix. I wish it were as simple on my 2000 Maxima or my 1992 Taurus SHO. It's a $1,000 repair on the SHO because MUST REMOVE THE WHOLE DASHBOARD.
I got one of the screws off easily, however the other one in the top right in the back is being difficult. I can tell someone has already worked on it as one is missing from the bottom. The screw seems to be hugging the door so i cant really get a lock on it..
Thought it wouldve been much harder to do. I dont like taking my car into the shop unless its absolutely something i myself cannot do. Thanks for the upload man! Also do you still have the car, and if so, has the motorcraft one given any issues since this video?
Hey Kyle, I appreciate your comment! I still have the Mustang and the Motorcraft Actuator is still work strong since this install! (Knock on wood it doesnt go out, period)
What tool did you use to reach the back bottom screw? I can’t fit a ratchet or flex head ratchet in there and it’s driving me nuts. My hands look like I stuck my hand in a piranha tank from the tight space
I’ve got a 2010 v6 mustang and the actuator isn’t the problem it’s actually the door isn’t closing or opening all the way so the actuator breaks trying to force it open or closed. Any ideas?
I believe that’s the standard motor products on. But I’d recommend going with Motorcraft YH-1801. That’s the one I used in the video and haven’t had problems since.
I too can’t get this bottom screw off. Which tool was it and where did you buy it? I’ve gone to autozone and bought several and I can’t seem to get the right one. Picture or link would be great. Thanks!
I ended up getting an 8mm ratchet wrench and cut it in half. Then reach in from behind. It helps to completely remove the glove box. Hope it helps someone in the future
If anyone reading this and still needs help with that bottom screw, I used a small/short 8mm wrench and slowly unscrewed it from the top. It's definitely doable, just needs a bit of patience.
what year? i'll try to help with 05-09's or really these too but it's kinda the same on both styles. just have a lever on the gear instead of straight gear. also i highly suggest buying oem motorcraft. the others are trash.
@Jonathan Musick That's not the issue. The issue is it happens far too often with this model. We shouldn't be having to go through all of this when it is a known common problem. Ford should do something about it.
There is 3 different actuators for this year and model but it just depends on which one is going out. Luckily I only had to replace the one closest to the center of the dash. Hope this helps, good luck 👍🏼.
I just saw your video and mine has been clicking for a while, well now my AC barely blows cold on the passenger side and no cold at all on the drivers side. Wonder how many actuators their are on a 2012 S197?
Marcus Johnson That honestly sounds like a coolant leak or possibly the compressor giving out. I’d start looking there. If I recall correctly, as far as actuators go, I believe there should be 3 on these body styles.
I had the same problem on the drivers side. I just removed the bitch out of there. It just shuts off the front air vents. The top screw is hell trying to remove it because the vent is in the way. Best to remove the cluster and have a second person push up on the vents.
Thanks for sharing the info my dude. My 2010 v6 also make ticking noise and the fan stopped working yesterday.... I took the actuator out and it worked for like 20 min (without the actuator) then it stopped working again. I went to Autozone and ordered the part, should be ready to pick up by tomorrow. Do you think the new one would fix it? Or did I mess something up when having it unplugged and driving around :( ? Thanks again dude.
@@steedschemes3570 It was actually my motor resistor, I replaced it with a new one and everything works now!(with the old actuator installed back) Thanks for the reply and helpful vid!!
@@MetronomeSenpai perfect! Thanks for the reply. I’m going to try that, as replacing the actuators for blend doors didn’t do it and ac pressures are good compressors good and fan is good
Kirk Sifuentes thank you! Unfortunately I don’t believe this will help you with your problem. From past experiences, it sounds like you just may be low on Freon or have a leak within the A/C lines/compressor. Let me know if this helped.
Could the same issue cause the climate control to not blow at all?? a few months ago, my vents wouldnt blow on any setting, even hot or cold ... but it started working again out of nowhere. A week ago it happened again but hasn't come back
It's not the same issue, but if you don't hear any air trying to blow through the vents as you're pressing the switches then it would be your control switch. Id start by checking your fuses before buying anything. Good luck 👍
this isn't the blend door. the blend door is the one at the back that has multiple positions.This is the panel/defrost mode actuator. Blend door controls temp. I wish there was a video for the blend door.
Can't guarantee a permanent fix but ever since I did this video with the OEM replacement actuator, I haven't had any problems with it what so ever. I'd definitely recommend Motorcraft for this part replacement. 👌🏼
that ticking is a massive pain. they're a different style on the 05-09's and have a lever instead of a straight gear. i was able to replace my top one by pulling the glove box out and cussing enough to send the whole county to hell. the bottom ones are much easier to get to.
Dude you didn't show the most important thing when fixing this, which is showing everyone how to remove the most difficult bolt that's located on the bottom right. You already had the bolt out in your video. An 8mm or 5/16" flexible head wrench is needed to get the bolt out. You will never get that bolt out without this tool.
Good Video.. Mine clicks but still changes the Vent Mode etc etc. F*** what People "think". People "thought" storing Crypto with FTX was a good idea. Glad to see it's an easy fix. I wish it were as simple on my 2000 Maxima or my 1992 Taurus SHO. It's a $1,000 repair on the SHO because MUST REMOVE THE WHOLE DASHBOARD.
I got one of the screws off easily, however the other one in the top right in the back is being difficult. I can tell someone has already worked on it as one is missing from the bottom. The screw seems to be hugging the door so i cant really get a lock on it..
Thought it wouldve been much harder to do. I dont like taking my car into the shop unless its absolutely something i myself cannot do. Thanks for the upload man! Also do you still have the car, and if so, has the motorcraft one given any issues since this video?
Hey Kyle, I appreciate your comment! I still have the Mustang and the Motorcraft Actuator is still work strong since this install! (Knock on wood it doesnt go out, period)
This video helped so much thank u !
What tool did you use to reach the back bottom screw? I can’t fit a ratchet or flex head ratchet in there and it’s driving me nuts. My hands look like I stuck my hand in a piranha tank from the tight space
The doorman ones are trash. The one in my 07 kept breaking and my Ford dealership gave me a motor craft one. No problems since
Thanks for this video! It helped me understand my problem.
No problem! Glad to be of help!!
I’ve got a 2010 v6 mustang and the actuator isn’t the problem it’s actually the door isn’t closing or opening all the way so the actuator breaks trying to force it open or closed. Any ideas?
You are supposed to recalibrate them by taking off a fuse and turning the switch on for 15min
How was it been with the OEM replacement? I believe mine just went out. I get cold AC only through the defrost, however I don't hear any clicking.
@John M yo I’m getting no ac jus heat will his part fix the problem?
Thanks for vid I just took mine out , I have an 09 is the j05058 still the right replacement? Thanks
J04058*
I believe that’s the standard motor products on. But I’d recommend going with Motorcraft YH-1801. That’s the one I used in the video and haven’t had problems since.
I need help if you’re still answering questions. How did you get the bottom one? I can’t get it at ALL.
Absolutely, I was able to get that one out with a swivel and an extension for the socket. Let me know if that helps.
I too can’t get this bottom screw off. Which tool was it and where did you buy it? I’ve gone to autozone and bought several and I can’t seem to get the right one. Picture or link would be great. Thanks!
I ended up getting an 8mm ratchet wrench and cut it in half. Then reach in from behind. It helps to completely remove the glove box. Hope it helps someone in the future
If anyone reading this and still needs help with that bottom screw, I used a small/short 8mm wrench and slowly unscrewed it from the top. It's definitely doable, just needs a bit of patience.
what year? i'll try to help with 05-09's or really these too but it's kinda the same on both styles. just have a lever on the gear instead of straight gear. also i highly suggest buying oem motorcraft. the others are trash.
Ford should have a Recall for this. Too common a problem...
@Jonathan Musick That's not the issue. The issue is it happens far too often with this model. We shouldn't be having to go through all of this when it is a known common problem. Ford should do something about it.
is that the only one, or are there more actuators for this problem?
There is 3 different actuators for this year and model but it just depends on which one is going out. Luckily I only had to replace the one closest to the center of the dash. Hope this helps, good luck 👍🏼.
I just saw your video and mine has been clicking for a while, well now my AC barely blows cold on the passenger side and no cold at all on the drivers side. Wonder how many actuators their are on a 2012 S197?
Marcus Johnson That honestly sounds like a coolant leak or possibly the compressor giving out. I’d start looking there. If I recall correctly, as far as actuators go, I believe there should be 3 on these body styles.
Could also be low on freon.
2 or 3 depending on dual zone ac or not. The actuator is stuck on heat that’s probably why it only blows hot air.
I had the same problem on the drivers side. I just removed the bitch out of there. It just shuts off the front air vents. The top screw is hell trying to remove it because the vent is in the way. Best to remove the cluster and have a second person push up on the vents.
Thanks for sharing the info my dude. My 2010 v6 also make ticking noise and the fan stopped working yesterday....
I took the actuator out and it worked for like 20 min (without the actuator) then it stopped working again. I went to Autozone and ordered the part, should be ready to pick up by tomorrow.
Do you think the new one would fix it? Or did I mess something up when having it unplugged and driving around :( ?
Thanks again dude.
Metronome Senpai you should be fine. Plug in the new one, bolting everything back up and you’re golden👌🏼 thanks for watching.
@@steedschemes3570 It was actually my motor resistor, I replaced it with a new one and everything works now!(with the old actuator installed back)
Thanks for the reply and helpful vid!!
@@MetronomeSenpai how hard was the blower motor resistor to replace?
@@quintonr9416 Super easy, just have to take the glove box out and unscrew a few botls. There should be plenty of tutorial videos too!
@@MetronomeSenpai perfect! Thanks for the reply. I’m going to try that, as replacing the actuators for blend doors didn’t do it and ac pressures are good compressors good and fan is good
Great video! Will this help me out with my problem. I've got cold air blowing in from the passenger side while warm air blowing out the driver side?
Kirk Sifuentes thank you! Unfortunately I don’t believe this will help you with your problem. From past experiences, it sounds like you just may be low on Freon or have a leak within the A/C lines/compressor. Let me know if this helped.
Could the same issue cause the climate control to not blow at all?? a few months ago, my vents wouldnt blow on any setting, even hot or cold ... but it started working again out of nowhere. A week ago it happened again but hasn't come back
It's not the same issue, but if you don't hear any air trying to blow through the vents as you're pressing the switches then it would be your control switch. Id start by checking your fuses before buying anything. Good luck 👍
Hey brother I have the same issue with my mustang crazy! By any chance did you ever get it resolved and how ? @TripolarFPS
Lmk
OMG ! Look at all that room this is way easier then doing mine on the S197. Now my Driver side one is clicking.
Sorry to hear that. All the actuators should all be close to it each other so hopefully it isn’t to troublesome. Good luck!
Part #?
Same listed on the description. You can find it on Amazon or any major part store.
Motorcraft - Motor Asy (P) (YH1801)
this isn't the blend door. the blend door is the one at the back that has multiple positions.This is the panel/defrost mode actuator. Blend door controls temp. I wish there was a video for the blend door.
ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/what-is-a-blend-door/
Is this a permanent fix or will it come back
Can't guarantee a permanent fix but ever since I did this video with the OEM replacement actuator, I haven't had any problems with it what so ever. I'd definitely recommend Motorcraft for this part replacement. 👌🏼
that ticking is a massive pain. they're a different style on the 05-09's and have a lever instead of a straight gear. i was able to replace my top one by pulling the glove box out and cussing enough to send the whole county to hell. the bottom ones are much easier to get to.
Dude you didn't show the most important thing when fixing this, which is showing everyone how to remove the most difficult bolt that's located on the bottom right. You already had the bolt out in your video. An 8mm or 5/16" flexible head wrench is needed to get the bolt out. You will never get that bolt out without this tool.
Sorry, forgot to add that you can also use an angled wrench of the same size as well. Probably cheaper too.