Learning so much Keith. I’ve got a 50 Plymouth Club Coupe driver. I cant do what you can..I don’t have your skill or your tools. But I service and repair what I’m able..but watching all your videos..makes me a little more able! And I enjoy seeing the internals and learning how they work. I’m now also have more in depth conversations with my mechanic when I need his help. Thank for your generous sharing of your knowledge and time..
I'm from New Zealand. Now living in the States. When I was 17 I bought a 1958 Plymouth Savoy with a flathead six. Traded the engine on a 318 V8. The V8 slotted straight into my Plymouth with just a change of engine mounts. Now 45 years later I'm looking at flathead 6 engines again.
Glad it was helpful! I've got a few more videos on flat head engines, If you want to watch and learn more. I suggest "Introduction to Mopar Flathead Engines. Part 1".
Love the videos brother. My wife and I just recently picked up a 1949 Dodge Wayfarer. I figured a fresh build is a must. Keep up the great content man.!!!!
Awsome, dont forget to take yime for yourself and script it on a sheet of paper, ie; props, thingies to have ready for the content . I have 3 Dodges, 1921. 37, & 48. Thanks for the DYKES recommendation, many in video audience may not grasp the reality of how much the engine block in its entirety must weigh? I saved a 1937 truck engine and managed to get it off a truck w/a lift, ground is not cemented so its on plywood laying down gracefully, using parts the new help loses. Remember folks keep an eye on everything, these are prehistoric parts. If anyone can find 37 / 218.7 oil pan repro's, send in the find. Meanwhile much appreciation for Mr. K and his family for being do giving, 91107 in 2022👍
Dang I really appreciate these videos, I have a 1950 desoto and just stand there and look at the car not know what the heck to do lol… hopefully I’ll get her running here soon, a lot of good info in these videos thanks man ✊🏽✊🏽✊🏽
Hi, really like your videos, I have a 48 fargo 1/2 ton with the flathead 6, I’m wondering if you had to do any clutch work and if so where you sourced your clutch from, keep up the vids!
Power wagons are an awsome link, i have found a neet and helpful -Vince's Dodge Garage down to earth on prices, and a full time carb rebuider/restorer in case u need to replace lost or missing linkage etc. 91107👍
Being all cast, is there any way to have hardened valve-seats put in place to allow stainless-steel valves, and a three-angle seat grind, to ensure both better seating and improved gas flow?
So I'm attempting to get a 1952 B3 truck going. I just read that detergent oil was introduced by then. The truck last ran in 1981 so I would guess by the time it was parked it had lots of detergent oil and unleaded gas. I was a bit concerned about your piece on sludge build up I'm hoping this isn't the case with this truck. I want to get it to fire its almost there but I will go through it and clean everything up
Hi Keith love your channel. I have a 54 Plymouth P24 that has fuel, compression and verified top dead center on number one cyl I have spark .It just will not fire over. It wants to so bad Have any suggestions..I can send video of it turning.
Around 115 to 120 psi…If you hold the starter down it seems to spin fast enough that it wants to start..I can send a video of what is doing..Thanks Nate
Question. I have a flat straight 6 on my 48 pontiac. I adjusted the valves but when i hook up the vacuum gauge it indicates late valve timing or leak in intake manifold or leak in heat riser. I already changed the intake manifold gaskets and running out of ideas. All this started when it started over heating. I replaced water pump and thermostat and after seeing your video on the freeze plugs im thinking i may have build up blocking flow but still having issues on making it run right. Any ideas?
It's difficult to troubleshoot from here however, I recommend a wet & dry compression test. Record all numbers dry. Then add about a teaspoon of oil in a cylinder. Measure compression again. Repeat for all 6 cylinders. Compare your findings. Its a great start to figuring out what's going on.
On your other video you said it's not a good idea to use a detergent oil, would you recommend useing a oil that's used on a Diesel engine ? I have heard guys saying it's better to use diesel engine oil is this true ?
If you have an engine that has been run for many years and miles on non-detergent oil, it will have lots of sludge built up in areas. This is what it is designed to do. You should not run any detergent oils, for gas or diesel engines. Until you clean all the sludge out from the oil pan, tappet oil pockets, around valve area, oil pump pick-up screen, and oil filter housing. After that you can run a a modern detergent oil. Oil for diesel engines is fine for these old cars too. Your choice once all the sludge is removed.
@@keithsgarage5831 thanks for the info, couple of weeks ago I changed the oil and put some 30wt pennzoil and new filter and noticed the car ran smooth at first then started running rough , after watching your video it made me think so I'm going to clean everything out and see if it improves how the engine runs...thanks a lot for your videos they have helped a lot , I'm new at working on these old flatheads , I'm learning that they require more maintenance and fine tuneing if you want them to run good there not like these newer cars that have computers and all these sensors , again thanks for all the information you give on your videos
Hi Keith. Let me start saying thank you so much for such an amazing informative video. I am currently working on the six cylinder, flat head engine powering a 1948 desoto suburban I just bought. Quick question, what do you use to clean that area behind the valve covers where your valve springs and tappets are? Many thanks in advance for your help
I assume you are cleaning out old sludge? Scrape out large deposits with a screw driver. Wipe in rags. Solvent in a spray bottle with a solvent brush and rags works well after large deposits are removed . Your oil pan needs to come off too. Scrape inside of it clean, where possible. Then more solvent, brush and rags.
@@keithsgarage5831 Yes, sorry, I didn't mention that, I was talking about cleaning the sludge. I already did the oil pan, oil pickup port and oil pump, is just confusing since some guys on some car groups recommend not to use gasoline or solvent in the area I asked you about claiming those products will remove complerely all the oil there giving more chance to metal to metal friction. It didnt make sense to me though, it would be as easy as clean the area thoroughly and then to apply some oil directly over the moving parts. Thanks a lot man, keep up with the awesome videos.
i have a 1953 m37 flat head 6 the way to tell about compression (rings vrs valves )take out one spark plug take a comp. reading if it low add small spoon of oil in plug hole spin eng a few times now read comp again if it helped its the rings if it did not help it id the valves
Hey Keith,,,,You mentioned about the port on your manifold for attaching your vacuum gauge. So is there normally a plug in that port? I have a 251 and I'm assuming it probably has the same manifold. My car is covered, it's dark out and it's raining. So it's a lot easier to ask then to go look. :) My other question is when you spoke about doing a compressed air test with the head on. The adapter you mentioned,,,, I'm assuming you'd thread it in the spark plug hole, right?
Correct. Yes you pull all spark plugs. To make an adaptor, you could break up an old spark plug. Use the threads. Adapt an air valve to it. Ensure in the cylinder you are measuring, the piston is at TDC on compression stroke. Thread your air adaptor into a spark plug hole. Hook up your air compressor. Pump in some compressed air. Have a listen to the areas I mentioned.....For the threaded hole for the vacuum gauge, yes there is generally a plug in their sealing it up. If you have a real old car you may have a hose there for the vacuum wipers. Remove the plug and thread a fitting in there to push on your vacuum gauge hose.
@@keithsgarage5831 Thanks Keith.... I'm jumping way ahead of course but when the time comes, I think a lot of viewers would like to see you dial in your carb idle mix screw with the vacuum gauge.
Pete, your request to address carb idle mix with vacuum gauge is complete. The video will be viewable tomorrow afternoon. Dec 18 2020. 3 pm pacific time (LA).
Thank you so much! I am working on my flathead 6 230ci in my 1951 Dodge Power Wagon. I already got two valves unstuck but I think I need to lap them still because it is pretty rough. 25 psi in cylinders 2-5 and 0 psi in 1 and 6 with the stuck valves. The older owner supposedly said it had a bad head gasket so that could maybe help explain the 25psi in 2 through 5 (but the gasket looked okay to me). I am going to try your method with a little gas to see how bad they leak before lapping them. I had a leak down test (forced air test) performed on it and air was leaking out of the dip stick. Does that mean the piston compression rings are also no good or could it of just been leaking through the valves? I am a beginner at this your video was a huge help thanks!
If you can get all the valves sealed again by lapping, awesome. While your valves are loose and in their guides, do they wiggle about, accounting for excessive guide to valve stem clearance? Hearing compressed air at the oil dip stick tube could be some non-sealing piston rings. Could also be air going past un-sealed, closed valves. Maybe then the air travelled down sloppy valve guides and into crankcase too?
@@keithsgarage5831 No the valves were pretty snug. I am pretty sure the compressed air coming out of the dip stick was leaking through the compression ring on the pistons. I took the valves out but I have decided that I am going to get it machined so I can have a reliable engine. Thanks for the video!
I owned a 1953 Dodge Coronet, Flat head straight 6 , In 1972 I was able to get engine modified part's from JC Whitney catalog to increase HP , I had the head milled I added a turbocharger, twin exhaust manifolds, and 6 volt electric fuel pump, from the factory it produced 100 HP , with the modifications I increased it to 1 65 HP 🇺🇸♥️🇺🇸 Great memories American Steel, ‼️
Hello where is a good place to get parts for these engines? i have a guy here in costa rica and he owns one of these Cars with Flat head 6 and engien needs to be rebuild ..so he needs Valves, pistons, rings , Bearings, gaskets .. some oversize stuff ..looking for a shop selling parts for these engines ....thanks
Learning so much Keith.
I’ve got a 50 Plymouth Club Coupe driver. I cant do what you can..I don’t have your skill or your tools. But I service and repair what I’m able..but watching all your videos..makes me a little more able! And I enjoy seeing the internals and learning how they work.
I’m now also have more in depth conversations with my mechanic when I need his help.
Thank for your generous sharing of your knowledge and time..
I’m glad to hear that. Thanks for your comments.
I'm from New Zealand. Now living in the States. When I was 17 I bought a 1958 Plymouth Savoy with a flathead six. Traded the engine on a 318 V8. The V8 slotted straight into my Plymouth with just a change of engine mounts. Now 45 years later I'm looking at flathead 6 engines again.
Very informative. My daughter and I just started a project car, 1949 DeSoto custom. This helps greatly with explaining the basics. Keep’em coming!
Glad it was helpful! I've got a few more videos on flat head engines, If you want to watch and learn more. I suggest "Introduction to Mopar Flathead Engines. Part 1".
Good luck with your DeSoto.
Love the videos brother. My wife and I just recently picked up a 1949 Dodge Wayfarer. I figured a fresh build is a must. Keep up the great content man.!!!!
Thanks! Will do!
Wonderfully informative and useful. Thanks for being so generous with your time Kieth, it’s very much appreciated.
Awsome, dont forget to take yime for yourself and script it on a sheet of paper, ie; props, thingies to have ready for the content . I have 3 Dodges, 1921. 37, & 48. Thanks for the DYKES recommendation, many in video audience may not grasp the reality of how much the engine block in its entirety must weigh?
I saved a 1937 truck engine and managed to get it off a truck w/a lift, ground is not cemented so its on plywood laying down gracefully, using parts the new help loses. Remember folks keep an eye on everything, these are prehistoric parts. If anyone can find 37 / 218.7 oil pan repro's, send in the find.
Meanwhile much appreciation for Mr. K and his family for being do giving, 91107 in 2022👍
Dang I really appreciate these videos, I have a 1950 desoto and just stand there and look at the car not know what the heck to do lol… hopefully I’ll get her running here soon, a lot of good info in these videos thanks man ✊🏽✊🏽✊🏽
Excellent, tutorial, it never gets old.
Thx Dannoquin. You’ve been a loyal viewer for a long time.
Awesome video! Thanks for posting it.
Keith I loved your videos.I live in Rio Grande do Sul-Brazil.i have a 1952 Dodge PU with a Chrysler 251 engine.I have a question to ask to you.
Why IAT 1035 and IAT 4011 distributor shafts are different lenght?
Hi, really like your videos, I have a 48 fargo 1/2 ton with the flathead 6, I’m wondering if you had to do any clutch work and if so where you sourced your clutch from, keep up the vids!
Try Vintage Power Wagons. Tons of truck stuff there!
Power wagons are an awsome link, i have found a neet and helpful -Vince's Dodge Garage down to earth on prices, and a full time carb rebuider/restorer in case u need to replace lost or missing linkage etc.
91107👍
Great informatieontsluiting, thanks
Being all cast, is there any way to have hardened valve-seats put in place to allow stainless-steel valves, and a three-angle seat grind, to ensure both better seating and improved gas flow?
So I'm attempting to get a 1952 B3 truck going. I just read that detergent oil was introduced by then. The truck last ran in 1981 so I would guess by the time it was parked it had lots of detergent oil and unleaded gas. I was a bit concerned about your piece on sludge build up I'm hoping this isn't the case with this truck. I want to get it to fire its almost there but I will go through it and clean everything up
It’ll fire. Keep at it. Pull a valve cover and have a look in there. To check the sludge build up.
Great job, school is in session👍👍👍👍👍
Yes! Thank you!
New to the channel, cool video brotha!
Hi Keith love your channel. I have a 54 Plymouth P24 that has fuel, compression and verified top dead center on number one cyl I have spark .It just will not fire over. It wants to so bad Have any suggestions..I can send video of it turning.
@@NathanMaule-bm9lc what compression readings did you get. By chance is it turning over to slow? Due to it having 12V sized battery cables on it?
Around 115 to 120 psi…If you hold the starter down it seems to spin fast enough that it wants to start..I can send a video of what is doing..Thanks Nate
I have 39 Dodge Flathead can you tell me the gap between the lifter and the valve both exhaust and intake any help would be appreciated thank you
Do you have a video on how to adjust the air/fuel screw using that vacuum/preasure guage? Need to fine tune mine
Yes. Please search my videos you’ll find it.
Question. I have a flat straight 6 on my 48 pontiac. I adjusted the valves but when i hook up the vacuum gauge it indicates late valve timing or leak in intake manifold or leak in heat riser. I already changed the intake manifold gaskets and running out of ideas. All this started when it started over heating. I replaced water pump and thermostat and after seeing your video on the freeze plugs im thinking i may have build up blocking flow but still having issues on making it run right. Any ideas?
It's difficult to troubleshoot from here however, I recommend a wet & dry compression test. Record all numbers dry. Then add about a teaspoon of oil in a cylinder. Measure compression again. Repeat for all 6 cylinders. Compare your findings. Its a great start to figuring out what's going on.
On your other video you said it's not a good idea to use a detergent oil, would you recommend useing a oil that's used on a Diesel engine ? I have heard guys saying it's better to use diesel engine oil is this true ?
If you have an engine that has been run for many years and miles on non-detergent oil, it will have lots of sludge built up in areas. This is what it is designed to do. You should not run any detergent oils, for gas or diesel engines. Until you clean all the sludge out from the oil pan, tappet oil pockets, around valve area, oil pump pick-up screen, and oil filter housing. After that you can run a a modern detergent oil. Oil for diesel engines is fine for these old cars too. Your choice once all the sludge is removed.
@@keithsgarage5831 thanks for the info, couple of weeks ago I changed the oil and put some 30wt pennzoil and new filter and noticed the car ran smooth at first then started running rough , after watching your video it made me think so I'm going to clean everything out and see if it improves how the engine runs...thanks a lot for your videos they have helped a lot , I'm new at working on these old flatheads , I'm learning that they require more maintenance and fine tuneing if you want them to run good there not like these newer cars that have computers and all these sensors , again thanks for all the information you give on your videos
Hi Keith. Let me start saying thank you so much for such an amazing informative video. I am currently working on the six cylinder, flat head engine powering a 1948 desoto suburban I just bought. Quick question, what do you use to clean that area behind the valve covers where your valve springs and tappets are? Many thanks in advance for your help
I assume you are cleaning out old sludge? Scrape out large deposits with a screw driver. Wipe in rags. Solvent in a spray bottle with a solvent brush and rags works well after large deposits are removed . Your oil pan needs to come off too. Scrape inside of it clean, where possible. Then more solvent, brush and rags.
@@keithsgarage5831 Yes, sorry, I didn't mention that, I was talking about cleaning the sludge. I already did the oil pan, oil pickup port and oil pump, is just confusing since some guys on some car groups recommend not to use gasoline or solvent in the area I asked you about claiming those products will remove complerely all the oil there giving more chance to metal to metal friction. It didnt make sense to me though, it would be as easy as clean the area thoroughly and then to apply some oil directly over the moving parts. Thanks a lot man, keep up with the awesome videos.
@@osirisgarcia7686 I would ensure the oil pan was off when I used any solvent. So it does not accumulate in the oil pan.
I have a 53 Plymouth breeze, can i lap the valves without pulling them?
Not that I am aware of. You have to remove the valve retainers, and springs. Then the valve is free to move a proper lap job can be done.
Thank you for the link very informative
Glad it was helpful!
Nice video, thanks
Glad you liked it!
Back reviewing these videos again. Just as good the second go around!
Can hardened seats be installed on these engines to allow the use of unleaded gasoline?
Mopar engines first got hardened seats in about 1933. They installed them from that point on.
@@keithsgarage5831 That’s good news! So then I shouldn’t need to use lead additive in my 36 Dodge motor?
i have a 1953 m37 flat head 6 the way to tell about compression (rings vrs valves )take out one spark plug take a comp. reading if it low add small spoon of oil in plug hole spin eng a few times now read comp again if it helped its the rings if it did not help it id the valves
Hey Keith,,,,You mentioned about the port on your manifold for attaching your vacuum gauge. So is there normally a plug in that port? I have a 251 and I'm assuming it probably has the same manifold. My car is covered, it's dark out and it's raining. So it's a lot easier to ask then to go look. :)
My other question is when you spoke about doing a compressed air test with the head on. The adapter you mentioned,,,, I'm assuming you'd thread it in the spark plug hole, right?
Correct. Yes you pull all spark plugs. To make an adaptor, you could break up an old spark plug. Use the threads. Adapt an air valve to it. Ensure in the cylinder you are measuring, the piston is at TDC on compression stroke. Thread your air adaptor into a spark plug hole. Hook up your air compressor. Pump in some compressed air. Have a listen to the areas I mentioned.....For the threaded hole for the vacuum gauge, yes there is generally a plug in their sealing it up. If you have a real old car you may have a hose there for the vacuum wipers. Remove the plug and thread a fitting in there to push on your vacuum gauge hose.
@@keithsgarage5831 Thanks Keith.... I'm jumping way ahead of course but when the time comes, I think a lot of viewers would like to see you dial in your carb idle mix screw with the vacuum gauge.
Next spring for sure....I can make that happen.Thanks for the suggestion.
Pete, your request to address carb idle mix with vacuum gauge is complete. The video will be viewable tomorrow afternoon. Dec 18 2020. 3 pm pacific time (LA).
@@keithsgarage5831 I'll be watching for it Keith
Thank you so much! I am working on my flathead 6 230ci in my 1951 Dodge Power Wagon. I already got two valves unstuck but I think I need to lap them still because it is pretty rough. 25 psi in cylinders 2-5 and 0 psi in 1 and 6 with the stuck valves. The older owner supposedly said it had a bad head gasket so that could maybe help explain the 25psi in 2 through 5 (but the gasket looked okay to me). I am going to try your method with a little gas to see how bad they leak before lapping them. I had a leak down test (forced air test) performed on it and air was leaking out of the dip stick. Does that mean the piston compression rings are also no good or could it of just been leaking through the valves? I am a beginner at this your video was a huge help thanks!
If you can get all the valves sealed again by lapping, awesome. While your valves are loose and in their guides, do they wiggle about, accounting for excessive guide to valve stem clearance? Hearing compressed air at the oil dip stick tube could be some non-sealing piston rings. Could also be air going past un-sealed, closed valves. Maybe then the air travelled down sloppy valve guides and into crankcase too?
@@keithsgarage5831 No the valves were pretty snug. I am pretty sure the compressed air coming out of the dip stick was leaking through the compression ring on the pistons. I took the valves out but I have decided that I am going to get it machined so I can have a reliable engine. Thanks for the video!
I owned a 1953 Dodge Coronet, Flat head straight 6 , In 1972 I was able to get engine modified part's from JC Whitney catalog to increase HP , I had the head milled I added a turbocharger, twin exhaust manifolds, and 6 volt electric fuel pump, from the factory it produced 100 HP , with the modifications I increased it to 1 65 HP 🇺🇸♥️🇺🇸 Great memories American Steel, ‼️
Hello where is a good place to get parts for these engines? i have a guy here in costa rica and he owns one of these Cars with Flat head 6 and engien needs to be rebuild ..so he needs Valves, pistons, rings , Bearings, gaskets .. some oversize stuff ..looking for a shop selling parts for these engines ....thanks
Try here:www.vintagepowerwagons.com/online-parts-catalog or here:www.oldmoparts.com/
Awesome video. Have you ever calculated your gas mileage on your 53?
No. I just drive and enjoy it.
Did you find excessive play on valve stem and guide?
Never got that far. I will be back to the valves again soon. Currently focusing on crank bearing wear.
Good luck and have fun. I'm curious too, about the insides
A long block less than 230?
You bet. In Canada they were all 25" long blocks. They offered 218, 228, 237, 251, 265 ci options all with the 25" block.
DO U KNOW MUCH BOUT GRYOMATIC HAVUNG TROUBLE WITH WIRING THANKS TOM WIRING DIAGRAM SHOW 4 WIRES AND MINE IS ONLY GOT 3 THAT I CAN FIND
Sorry, I’ve not owned a car with the Gyromatic. Is that the semi-auto also known as the tip-toe shift?
Info. We need