This video is a gem and perfect example of effective counter-conditioning. It deserves a lot more views. Hope to see more videos from you in the future. -Tab.
I've been binge watching your videos, and oh my gosh you're a genius! I'm currently taking courses to become a dog obedience trainer, and your videos have helped so much :)
We train dogs to focus on us and engage in fun behaviors through reward-based training in fearful situations so they also learn a positive association with the situation. We avoid methods that use force or punishment because the dog may learn to focus out of fear of getting a correction. As a result, the dog is not likely to develop a positive association with the scary dog, and greater reactivity and fear are likely to occur. See Ch 12 of How to Behave So Your Dog Behaves for more information.
I also find that they were either getting much more than they needed before (based on a better body condition score) or really they don't need to eat as much as the owner thinks. You always have the option to only have her work for kibble or to train her to really love working for toys. part of having them work for kibble is knowing how to deliver it correctly and when the "lack of motivation" could be fixed by slight variation in delivery.
Thank you for posting this very simple but very encouraging video. It's caused me to tear up a bit because this is my summer project: to fix my fear-based dog aggressive dog. We've purchased our gentle leader, muzzle, and I'm off for the "treat bag" today. Thank you.
First, I would have your veterinarian evaluate her body condition score when she's "starved." Most likely when she's lost that extra pound, she would be considered athletic condition (4.5/9 score) and she's normally a 5/9 body score (which is ok but not atheletic condition). Many people tell me their dogs aren't food motivated but every time I take one of these in I find that when they work for food they become more motivated to eat regularly.
@PaulAndMuttley: I'm using GL to guide his head up so that he will look at me. goal behavior is that he looks at me. Then once he looks at me I remove the GL guidance (thus -R) and follow with food reward (+R) for attention.
The first thinig I noticed was that you move really quickly! I wish I had this know how when I got my first foster GSD who had the same issue as Podee.
When first learning an exercise, a dog will need to be rewarded every time he/she performs it correctly. However, once the dog knows the exercise, you can start to reward with praise, petting, or whatever he/she wants most, and you’ll use food at an intermittent rate. You can then continue to increase the amount of time between treats, until they are no longer needed. For more information on getting started using a dog’s kibble or treats to train, see Ch 14 of How to Behave So Your Dog Behaves.
@Silivr1 : Best resource on specifics for what you need is my textbook and DVD Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification of Dogs and Cats. It has 106 DVds and teaches step by step. It's now used by many veterinarians and being adopted in technician programs. you can see the lower cost online version at lowstresshandling
For learn to earn program which they need to do inside first they learn to work for every piece of their kibble. So then you get them to work for their kibble even outside (since this is the only way they get fed--they learn to value the kibble more). Then in the really difficult situation I use treats. If that means they won't eat the next day that's ok because they won't starve themselves. But likely they will because they will come to enjoy interaction of food with training.
A treat given pretty much every 2 - 4 seconds. Constant, non-stop, treats. Works well for Podee who is treat oriented. What about the dog who could care less about your constant treats?
Thanks again for your help! I've been trying the technique in the last few days and my dog really likes her food a lot more outside! She even started to eat more during the day as well! She's now eating at least 1/2 cup a day. One last question, if I find it very hard to get her attention even with walking/sitting/heel/come/etc. should I try a gentle leader head collar? Giving her a small correction with her regular collar makes her shut down, avoid eye contact, refuse food(only tried twice
Hi Dr. Yin. Great video, very informative. I'm going to start using this same process on my dog-aggressive puppy. Currently I'm still getting her used to her headcollar. Anyway, could you please tell me how long each step took in the video? Was all of Podee's progress in one session, over a week, or a month, etc? Thanks so much.
@Beckcycle : Your dog first most likely needs to go through the learn to earnprogram first to learn to look to you for guidance (and for you to learn to provide clear guidance). you can find this program photoillustrated with a ton of photos in Perfect Puppy in 7 days which is available on amazon.com
Thank you. You've been very helpful in answering my questions! The vet thought she was pretty thin just because she ran too much. She's not actually emancipated but if my mother feeds her anything human food related, she does become quite thin to starve herself. By the way, if you're ever coming to Canada (specifically Vancouver) please let me know! I'll try and contact Dr. Gary Landsburg and Dr. Diane Frank. Thanks for all your help.
@shellylanette : That's because you have to shape the behavior rather than put them in that situation first thing and expect it to work. you can see a video that explains what shaping is on the superbark youtube channel.
well, without really seeing her and taking a regular behavioral history, I can't really give say anything specific to her. But the dogs that I have seen that are actually emaciated have been sick (only seen 2). I'd wait for the online learning. Rate is $25.00/month and once the MannersMinder stuff is up you will have access to all of that and to the puppy learn to earn course which will be go up within a month therafter probably. That will have a lot of the outdoor exercises.
These are things I will address in more detail on my online education center of my web page eventually once I get the many specific exercises up. The MannersMinder DVD shows the indoor learn to earn exercises and goes over body condition scoring and food motivation. A version of the learn to earn exercises are on the dog articles page of my web site under "Lucy." Your papillon may never have the appetite of a "lab" but you can get her more consistently motivated. You can use petting too.
May I ask a question? What do I do if my dog is a picky eater and by giving her high value treats, even a few, she starts to skip meals wanting something better and ends up starving for days? She's a 6 lbs Papillon by the way. I would like to try this but I'm afraid she will become picky again with the amount of treats given? Wow this video is excellent! My dog reacts by barking at any new dogs whenever she sees one because she becomes very excited and a little nervous.
It is clear that Podee is way overthreshold from 38 seconds onward. I am curious why you didn't remove him for the situation to a point where he was back under threshold, then work your way back toward the dog as you do later? Have you heard about the use of operant conditioning (letting the dog choose his behavior ) that is recently been used in reactive dogs? Behavioral Adjustment Training (Bat) is what it is called. Grisha Ahimsa in Seattle is spearheading it.
The head halter can be bad for the neck if the handler no skill. e.g. if they just stand around and leg the dog rush to the end and pull it's head around and also don't train the dog that leash is loose unless the dog gets ahead of them. It's important to really control the leash/ head so that you're guiding and not yanking when using this technique. This technique is much more difficult than it looks. I tell owners they should be the distance where they can control the dog pretty easily.
There are also veterinary behaviorists in Canada. Dr. Gary Landsburg in Toronto. Dr. Diane Frank. They might be able to guide you to someone closer to your part of Canada.
Her normal behavior for seeing another dog is bark bark bark bark, charge charge(tail wagging like crazy). When she gets to the dog however, her tail and butt is wagging furiously and she sniffs and licks them, never any growling or biting. Is she fearful? And does counter conditioning work for both situations? I've started to try the at home videos, thank you.
what kind of harness are you using? are you using a regular flat buckle collar as well? my dog has a similar aggression but also towards strangers.. can this method be effective towards stranger aggression as well? great videos i love them! so helpful!
She only eats between 1/3 to 1/4 cup food a day, she's 6 lbs. The vet says she should be eating at least 1/3 cup minimum and better if it's 1/2 cup of food a day because she runs for 1-2 hrs a day. I would like to buy one of your books/DVDs. Which one would you recommend? Her main behavioral problem is barking at other dogs and lunging (not sure with excitement or nervousness). Most likely a mixture of both.
I took my puppy from a dog foster home about a year ago. I love him to bits; he has a great personality, and I feel that he loves our family so much. BUT, whenever I take him for walks, we have problems. He hates other dogs and other people sometimes even growls at us. My wife and I were thinking about taking him to 'doggy school', but then again, it’s extremely expensive, and the nearest 'doggy school' is far away from us. Maybe you have some advice? THANK YOU!!!!
Thank you. Actually her normal body condition is already very very thin (according to the vet) and when she loses that extra pound, the vet said she was quite underweight. Her ribs, hips, spine all protrude but he did all the tests (stool sample, blood analysis, urinalysis, x-ray) and can't find a thing wrong with her. She's wormed regularly. I'm located in Canada and I don't think our vet used a body score.
Thank you for the reply but the thing is, my dog really does starve herself. Even if she is fed ONE piece of human food during the day, she will eat only a few bites a day for a week to wait out for better food even when we don't give any. She will literally lose pounds because sometimes she goes 48 hrs without eating. Also, she only eats when she's starving and whenever I offer her kibble, she won't eat it. She'd rather starve, that's how picky she is.
You're correct that if you LET the dog get out of control you're in trouble. Which is why I'm careful to set up situations where I don't let the dog get out of control. It's smart to be prepared instead of having to be reactive.To see a video of what leadership is go to drsophiayin home page.
@tabaleao : Refer to the video on "Bambi" on my web site OR in Low Stress Handling, Restraint and behavior Mod of dogs and cats textbook and DVd there are many examples on video.
@ivernave : To see my credentials as a veterinarian and applied animal behaviorist lecturing all over the world, go to my web site at drsophiayin. Or just believe whatever makes you feel good.
Would the training protocol be the same if my dog reacts the same on-leash but does not run away from dogs when on-leash? I don't know what type of aggression she has, but she has attacked another dog and bit and shook it badly. (and hasn't had that opportunity since). She does bark and lunge like Podee did on leash. She's also a picky eater who doesn't seem to like kibble. How do I get her from the first shots of Podee in the emergency situation to the second round?
I have the same problm with both my dogs, mainly my bulldog. He lunges with full force at other dogs and barks so he appears like a very vicious dog. I've taken him to a trainer and he obeys the trainers and listens to commands but only while within an enclosed area. Once he's outdoors, specially in a wide open space, it's really difficult to impossible to get his attention even with treats. The last trainer told me that he may never be able to safely play with other dogs
Dr. Yin my dog is very aggressive. I've done everything in my power t stop him from lunging and growling and trying to attack other dogs. Even treats don't work, he is too focused on the other dog that food doesnt matter to him. Can't distract him at all. I've almost fallen many times because of him pulling. What can I do?
On my askdryin web site I have videos on the learn to earn exercises that I do and will have more detailed videos up in maybe a month. Watch the ones on say please by sitting or rewarding calm behavior. It's often hard to get good attention outside without doing learn to earn inside first (with difficult dogs). Do consider training a "watch me." I have instructions for that in How to Behave So Your Dog Behaves.
I'm sorry that I keep bothering you. Um...today I noticed maybe my dog is actually barking from excitement instead of fear because we were with a few dogs that she knows and she never barks at. But when they were walking away and they got pretty far, she started to bark at them too. Same with barking at my mother on a walk if she gets waaay too far. Is it possible that she's barking from excitement instead of fear?
You do not have to necessarily use treats; indeed, you can make your dog work for his kibble, by keeping some of his ratio of kibble with sliced hot dogs overnight. The kibble will absorb hot dog taste and your dog should enjoy them. CM's approach looks economical but does nothing to change the dog's emotional state, and if you get bit; it may turn more costly than a bag of treats.
So currently I've basically been snapping, saying 'hey!' or even calling her name to get her attention on me. Is there a better way to get/hold her attention?
As you can see from the 3rd session, I don't need to use BAT to get him under control and happy although I could if I wanted. It would just take longer. you are right that the dog is over threshold but not at 38 seconds, right away. in order to show people the difference in how a dog should look when he's ready vs not ready to be in a situation, you must show them both and provide enough explanation. But people do need to listen to the explanation of what's happening.
15 років тому
My dog, (a 1 year old Australian shepherd), has had some bad experiences at the vet recently. He injured his paw and the vet was rather rough in their handling with him, since they don't have time to take it slow. Now my dog's become more and more obsessive around his injured paw. He's actually begun to try and bite us when we aproach to change his bandage and so on. Can this be counter conditioned and how to do it? He's always been easy to handle before this happened, and relaxed about it... =(
I'm not Dr Yin either, but it depends what motivates your dog. Some like their usual kibble, others like chicken, others cheese, so spend some time and find out what really motivates your dog. If your dog is disinterested from the beginning of the training session, it's either because there's too many distractions or your treat isn't reinforcing enough. Use very small pieces and ensure you account for those treats when feeding meals so you don't over feed.
Also, when I ignored her and waited for her to calm down, sit and look at me, she started to whine. I'm so confused with her behavior. We were doing good a few days ago today I guess there are too many dogs that she knows and she was too excited but she wouldn't even eat food or look at me even when I walked her away. She only started to look at me and eat when all the dogs were out of sight.
I think you could use dogs you see on walks-you can control the distance you are from them on the sidewalk. If your dog can't be close without getting distracted, move away from other dogs to maintain distance while working with your dog to keep his focus. Once your dog is able to focus on you at that distance, allow yourself to get closer, as long as you can keep your dog's attention. Check out Dr. Yin's blog post: My Dog Knows Some Walking Exercises: How to Incorporate Them Into a Walk
See comment below. I'd work on Learn to earn exercises first indoors then out. Then after that add the gentle leader head collar or snootloop. You'll need to train her to like it by giving her treats through it. I'll have video up under online learning in maybe several weeks. Also with GL you want to guide gentle so that you can reward good behavior vs using it as a correction (just a heads up on GL use).
I hear you say "negative reinforcement", or R-, an OC term meaning to increase likelihood of a behavior by removing something, inferring it was something unpleasant. I think you're trying to lessen the dog's reactivity and aggression, which means punishment. Are you removing the reward of an unrestricted walk (P-), or pulling on the GL to force him to turn toward you or else suffer pain (P+) due to the collar? Why use the R- term? Bad association of term "punishment" and that positive=good?
Great video, Ms. Yin. Too bad you need someone else with an unknown dog for this technique to work. I mean, you can't do it with random dogs walking in the same streets as you. We let our dog develop too many negative behaviour in my house, he sniffs to find cats, he pisses to mark his territory, he pulls/lunges aggressively at other dogs in sight, etc.. My dog's almost 7 years old, if I work with him consistently I might correct his behaviour.
What if my dog doesn't care about treats at all? The only way I can get him to be interested is if i turn it into a toy, making him want to play with it, then he will sniff for a few minutes, lick it, and then take it somewhere else to eat. Even if I have something he loves, like meat, he will take it in his mouth then run off somewhere else, drop it on the floor, lick it a few times, then eat it after dropping it repeatedly.
@Boboua Have you considered feeding her raw? Most dogs become very good eaters on raw as it is more natural food for them. There are also tons of other benefits to feeding raw as well! Check out my videos for two videos on intro to feeding raw.
tip: 1. Take a cup of kibble, put it in a treat dispenser of your choice 2. Take a few cheese doodles, crush them, sprinkle over the kibble, mix 3. "Economical" approach accomplished while not robbing your dog of a full, happy life without constant conflicts between the two of you. Though seriously, I wonder that treats cost where you live because I use a lot of treats (I train my dog incessantly) and it's never been a major expense even though I live on tight margins, money wise.
@Boboua From what you're saying it does sound like your dog is just getting over-aroused. You probably need to find a more high value treat- for instance, my dogs are ok with small pieces of hot dog, but they'll do aaaanything for chicken. Figure out what your dog likes the best so that when you start introducing distractions, the reward for paying attention to you will be more enticing. Gradually introduce more distraction, and reward for ignoring those distractions.
Hmmm... You seem to have gotten him under control WITH his cooperation WITHOUT strangling him until his tongue turns blue from lack of oxygen, WITHOUT getting your sleeve ripped and WITHOUT wresting him to the ground. Yeah, I think we know which method really works here and which method is bullshit from a hack who doesn't know what he's doing.
this is genius!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
you have no idea about dogs! you may know something about conditionig, but as far as dog behavior, you don't know what you are doing. btw, i am sure you wont allow this comment to be posted
This video is a gem and perfect example of effective counter-conditioning. It deserves a lot more views. Hope to see more videos from you in the future. -Tab.
You rule Dr. yin, i really love your work ma'am
I've been binge watching your videos, and oh my gosh you're a genius! I'm currently taking courses to become a dog obedience trainer, and your videos have helped so much :)
We train dogs to focus on us and engage in fun behaviors through reward-based training in fearful situations so they also learn a positive association with the situation. We avoid methods that use force or punishment because the dog may learn to focus out of fear of getting a correction. As a result, the dog is not likely to develop a positive association with the scary dog, and greater reactivity and fear are likely to occur. See Ch 12 of How to Behave So Your Dog Behaves for more information.
I also find that they were either getting much more than they needed before (based on a better body condition score) or really they don't need to eat as much as the owner thinks. You always have the option to only have her work for kibble or to train her to really love working for toys. part of having them work for kibble is knowing how to deliver it correctly and when the "lack of motivation" could be fixed by slight variation in delivery.
Thank you for posting this very simple but very encouraging video. It's caused me to tear up a bit because this is my summer project: to fix my fear-based dog aggressive dog. We've purchased our gentle leader, muzzle, and I'm off for the "treat bag" today. Thank you.
This training is just fantastic!
this is such a great video
First, I would have your veterinarian evaluate her body condition score when she's "starved." Most likely when she's lost that extra pound, she would be considered athletic condition (4.5/9 score) and she's normally a 5/9 body score (which is ok but not atheletic condition). Many people tell me their dogs aren't food motivated but every time I take one of these in I find that when they work for food they become more motivated to eat regularly.
@PaulAndMuttley: I'm using GL to guide his head up so that he will look at me. goal behavior is that he looks at me. Then once he looks at me I remove the GL guidance (thus -R) and follow with food reward (+R) for attention.
The first thinig I noticed was that you move really quickly! I wish I had this know how when I got my first foster GSD who had the same issue as Podee.
When first learning an exercise, a dog will need to be rewarded every time he/she performs it correctly. However, once the dog knows the exercise, you can start to reward with praise, petting, or whatever he/she wants most, and you’ll use food at an intermittent rate. You can then continue to increase the amount of time between treats, until they are no longer needed. For more information on getting started using a dog’s kibble or treats to train, see Ch 14 of How to Behave So Your Dog Behaves.
@Silivr1 : Best resource on specifics for what you need is my textbook and DVD Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification of Dogs and Cats. It has 106 DVds and teaches step by step. It's now used by many veterinarians and being adopted in technician programs. you can see the lower cost online version at lowstresshandling
For learn to earn program which they need to do inside first they learn to work for every piece of their kibble. So then you get them to work for their kibble even outside (since this is the only way they get fed--they learn to value the kibble more). Then in the really difficult situation I use treats. If that means they won't eat the next day that's ok because they won't starve themselves. But likely they will because they will come to enjoy interaction of food with training.
A treat given pretty much every 2 - 4 seconds. Constant, non-stop, treats. Works well for Podee who is treat oriented. What about the dog who could care less about your constant treats?
You make it looks so simple!
Thanks again for your help! I've been trying the technique in the last few days and my dog really likes her food a lot more outside! She even started to eat more during the day as well! She's now eating at least 1/2 cup a day.
One last question, if I find it very hard to get her attention even with walking/sitting/heel/come/etc. should I try a gentle leader head collar? Giving her a small correction with her regular collar makes her shut down, avoid eye contact, refuse food(only tried twice
Hi Dr. Yin. Great video, very informative. I'm going to start using this same process on my dog-aggressive puppy. Currently I'm still getting her used to her headcollar. Anyway, could you please tell me how long each step took in the video? Was all of Podee's progress in one session, over a week, or a month, etc? Thanks so much.
@Beckcycle : Your dog first most likely needs to go through the learn to earnprogram first to learn to look to you for guidance (and for you to learn to provide clear guidance). you can find this program photoillustrated with a ton of photos in Perfect Puppy in 7 days which is available on amazon.com
Thank you. You've been very helpful in answering my questions! The vet thought she was pretty thin just because she ran too much. She's not actually emancipated but if my mother feeds her anything human food related, she does become quite thin to starve herself.
By the way, if you're ever coming to Canada (specifically Vancouver) please let me know! I'll try and contact Dr. Gary Landsburg and Dr. Diane Frank. Thanks for all your help.
@shellylanette : That's because you have to shape the behavior rather than put them in that situation first thing and expect it to work. you can see a video that explains what shaping is on the superbark youtube channel.
well, without really seeing her and taking a regular behavioral history, I can't really give say anything specific to her. But the dogs that I have seen that are actually emaciated have been sick (only seen 2). I'd wait for the online learning. Rate is $25.00/month and once the MannersMinder stuff is up you will have access to all of that and to the puppy learn to earn course which will be go up within a month therafter probably. That will have a lot of the outdoor exercises.
These are things I will address in more detail on my online education center of my web page eventually once I get the many specific exercises up. The MannersMinder DVD shows the indoor learn to earn exercises and goes over body condition scoring and food motivation. A version of the learn to earn exercises are on the dog articles page of my web site under "Lucy." Your papillon may never have the appetite of a "lab" but you can get her more consistently motivated. You can use petting too.
May I ask a question? What do I do if my dog is a picky eater and by giving her high value treats, even a few, she starts to skip meals wanting something better and ends up starving for days? She's a 6 lbs Papillon by the way. I would like to try this but I'm afraid she will become picky again with the amount of treats given?
Wow this video is excellent! My dog reacts by barking at any new dogs whenever she sees one because she becomes very excited and a little nervous.
It is clear that Podee is way overthreshold from 38 seconds onward. I am curious why you didn't remove him for the situation to a point where he was back under threshold, then work your way back toward the dog as you do later? Have you heard about the use of operant conditioning (letting the dog choose his behavior ) that is recently been used in reactive dogs? Behavioral Adjustment Training (Bat) is what it is called. Grisha Ahimsa in Seattle is spearheading it.
I posted an answer but it disappeared. Will try again.
The head halter can be bad for the neck if the handler no skill. e.g. if they just stand around and leg the dog rush to the end and pull it's head around and also don't train the dog that leash is loose unless the dog gets ahead of them. It's important to really control the leash/ head so that you're guiding and not yanking when using this technique. This technique is much more difficult than it looks. I tell owners they should be the distance where they can control the dog pretty easily.
There are also veterinary behaviorists in Canada. Dr. Gary Landsburg in Toronto. Dr. Diane Frank. They might be able to guide you to someone closer to your part of Canada.
Her normal behavior for seeing another dog is bark bark bark bark, charge charge(tail wagging like crazy). When she gets to the dog however, her tail and butt is wagging furiously and she sniffs and licks them, never any growling or biting. Is she fearful? And does counter conditioning work for both situations? I've started to try the at home videos, thank you.
what kind of harness are you using? are you using a regular flat buckle collar as well?
my dog has a similar aggression but also towards strangers.. can this method be effective towards stranger aggression as well?
great videos i love them! so helpful!
She only eats between 1/3 to 1/4 cup food a day, she's 6 lbs.
The vet says she should be eating at least 1/3 cup minimum and better if it's 1/2 cup of food a day because she runs for 1-2 hrs a day.
I would like to buy one of your books/DVDs. Which one would you recommend? Her main behavioral problem is barking at other dogs and lunging (not sure with excitement or nervousness). Most likely a mixture of both.
I took my puppy from a dog foster home about a year ago. I love him to bits; he has a great personality, and I feel that he loves our family so much. BUT, whenever I take him for walks, we have problems. He hates other dogs and other people sometimes even growls at us. My wife and I were thinking about taking him to 'doggy school', but then again, it’s extremely expensive, and the nearest 'doggy school' is far away from us. Maybe you have some advice? THANK YOU!!!!
Thank you. Actually her normal body condition is already very very thin (according to the vet) and when she loses that extra pound, the vet said she was quite underweight. Her ribs, hips, spine all protrude but he did all the tests (stool sample, blood analysis, urinalysis, x-ray) and can't find a thing wrong with her. She's wormed regularly.
I'm located in Canada and I don't think our vet used a body score.
Thank you for the reply but the thing is, my dog really does starve herself. Even if she is fed ONE piece of human food during the day, she will eat only a few bites a day for a week to wait out for better food even when we don't give any. She will literally lose pounds because sometimes she goes 48 hrs without eating.
Also, she only eats when she's starving and whenever I offer her kibble, she won't eat it. She'd rather starve, that's how picky she is.
You're correct that if you LET the dog get out of control you're in trouble. Which is why I'm careful to set up situations where I don't let the dog get out of control. It's smart to be prepared instead of having to be reactive.To see a video of what leadership is go to drsophiayin home page.
well but isn't the head leash also bad for the neck? i watched this after watching "Shadow turns blue. Anyway, nice videos. I enjoy watching them.
@tabaleao : Refer to the video on "Bambi" on my web site OR in Low Stress Handling, Restraint and behavior Mod of dogs and cats textbook and DVd there are many examples on video.
@ivernave : To see my credentials as a veterinarian and applied animal behaviorist lecturing all over the world, go to my web site at drsophiayin. Or just believe whatever makes you feel good.
Would the training protocol be the same if my dog reacts the same on-leash but does not run away from dogs when on-leash? I don't know what type of aggression she has, but she has attacked another dog and bit and shook it badly. (and hasn't had that opportunity since). She does bark and lunge like Podee did on leash. She's also a picky eater who doesn't seem to like kibble. How do I get her from the first shots of Podee in the emergency situation to the second round?
It's simple way, but its working. Well done!
I have the same problm with both my dogs, mainly my bulldog. He lunges with full force at other dogs and barks so he appears like a very vicious dog. I've taken him to a trainer and he obeys the trainers and listens to commands but only while within an enclosed area. Once he's outdoors, specially in a wide open space, it's really difficult to impossible to get his attention even with treats. The last trainer told me that he may never be able to safely play with other dogs
Dr. Yin my dog is very aggressive. I've done everything in my power t stop him from lunging and growling and trying to attack other dogs. Even treats don't work, he is too focused on the other dog that food doesnt matter to him. Can't distract him at all. I've almost fallen many times because of him pulling. What can I do?
On my askdryin web site I have videos on the learn to earn exercises that I do and will have more detailed videos up in maybe a month. Watch the ones on say please by sitting or rewarding calm behavior. It's often hard to get good attention outside without doing learn to earn inside first (with difficult dogs). Do consider training a "watch me." I have instructions for that in How to Behave So Your Dog Behaves.
i have this same problem w/my ori pei. im going 2 try this, thanks.
What's the best way to reward a dog's behavior if they don't eat treats when they are outside?
I'm sorry that I keep bothering you. Um...today I noticed maybe my dog is actually barking from excitement instead of fear because we were with a few dogs that she knows and she never barks at. But when they were walking away and they got pretty far, she started to bark at them too. Same with barking at my mother on a walk if she gets waaay too far. Is it possible that she's barking from excitement instead of fear?
great job !!! :)
You do not have to necessarily use treats; indeed, you can make your dog work for his kibble, by keeping some of his ratio of kibble with sliced hot dogs overnight. The kibble will absorb hot dog taste and your dog should enjoy them. CM's approach looks economical but does nothing to change the dog's emotional state, and if you get bit; it may turn more costly than a bag of treats.
I do have the dogtra 200 collar and use the pager only to get my dogs attention away from the other dog,is that ok?
So currently I've basically been snapping, saying 'hey!' or even calling her name to get her attention on me. Is there a better way to get/hold her attention?
Bravo!
As you can see from the 3rd session, I don't need to use BAT to get him under control and happy although I could if I wanted. It would just take longer.
you are right that the dog is over threshold but not at 38 seconds, right away. in order to show people the difference in how a dog should look when he's ready vs not ready to be in a situation, you must show them both and provide enough explanation. But people do need to listen to the explanation of what's happening.
My dog, (a 1 year old Australian shepherd), has had some bad experiences at the vet recently. He injured his paw and the vet was rather rough in their handling with him, since they don't have time to take it slow. Now my dog's become more and more obsessive around his injured paw. He's actually begun to try and bite us when we aproach to change his bandage and so on. Can this be counter conditioned and how to do it? He's always been easy to handle before this happened, and relaxed about it... =(
"Dogs like MTV, not Masterpiece Theater"! I love it!
Hi Dr. Yin, what kind of treats do you use /recommend??
I'm not Dr Yin either, but it depends what motivates your dog. Some like their usual kibble, others like chicken, others cheese, so spend some time and find out what really motivates your dog. If your dog is disinterested from the beginning of the training session, it's either because there's too many distractions or your treat isn't reinforcing enough. Use very small pieces and ensure you account for those treats when feeding meals so you don't over feed.
So do you have to condition him with every new dog he comes across?
Also, when I ignored her and waited for her to calm down, sit and look at me, she started to whine. I'm so confused with her behavior. We were doing good a few days ago today I guess there are too many dogs that she knows and she was too excited but she wouldn't even eat food or look at me even when I walked her away. She only started to look at me and eat when all the dogs were out of sight.
I think you could use dogs you see on walks-you can control the distance you are from them on the sidewalk. If your dog can't be close without getting distracted, move away from other dogs to maintain distance while working with your dog to keep his focus. Once your dog is able to focus on you at that distance, allow yourself to get closer, as long as you can keep your dog's attention.
Check out Dr. Yin's blog post: My Dog Knows Some Walking Exercises: How to Incorporate Them Into a Walk
Re: The statement that this dog is not aggression. This dog actually got loose once and bit another dog, sending the dog to the hospital.
See comment below. I'd work on Learn to earn exercises first indoors then out. Then after that add the gentle leader head collar or snootloop. You'll need to train her to like it by giving her treats through it. I'll have video up under online learning in maybe several weeks. Also with GL you want to guide gentle so that you can reward good behavior vs using it as a correction (just a heads up on GL use).
I hear you say "negative reinforcement", or R-, an OC term meaning to increase likelihood of a behavior by removing something, inferring it was something unpleasant. I think you're trying to lessen the dog's reactivity and aggression, which means punishment. Are you removing the reward of an unrestricted walk (P-), or pulling on the GL to force him to turn toward you or else suffer pain (P+) due to the collar? Why use the R- term? Bad association of term "punishment" and that positive=good?
Great video, Ms. Yin. Too bad you need someone else with an unknown dog for this technique to work. I mean, you can't do it with random dogs walking in the same streets as you. We let our dog develop too many negative behaviour in my house, he sniffs to find cats, he pisses to mark his territory, he pulls/lunges aggressively at other dogs in sight, etc.. My dog's almost 7 years old, if I work with him consistently I might correct his behaviour.
It's the buddy system at buddysys
Carry your dog's dinner! That's ecconomics! Dog gives the desired behaviour and he gets paid his meal. :)
What if my dog doesn't care about treats at all? The only way I can get him to be interested is if i turn it into a toy, making him want to play with it, then he will sniff for a few minutes, lick it, and then take it somewhere else to eat. Even if I have something he loves, like meat, he will take it in his mouth then run off somewhere else, drop it on the floor, lick it a few times, then eat it after dropping it repeatedly.
do i have to carry so many treats on a daily basis in order to correct my dog, CM's approach is definitely more economical
@Boboua Have you considered feeding her raw? Most dogs become very good eaters on raw as it is more natural food for them. There are also tons of other benefits to feeding raw as well! Check out my videos for two videos on intro to feeding raw.
I'm not using the shock,only the vibration to get her mind of the other dog and focus on me and snacks
tip:
1. Take a cup of kibble, put it in a treat dispenser of your choice
2. Take a few cheese doodles, crush them, sprinkle over the kibble, mix
3. "Economical" approach accomplished while not robbing your dog of a full, happy life without constant conflicts between the two of you.
Though seriously, I wonder that treats cost where you live because I use a lot of treats (I train my dog incessantly) and it's never been a major expense even though I live on tight margins, money wise.
@Boboua She is too exited... thats not normal... it isnt fear, she is nervous
@Boboua From what you're saying it does sound like your dog is just getting over-aroused. You probably need to find a more high value treat- for instance, my dogs are ok with small pieces of hot dog, but they'll do aaaanything for chicken. Figure out what your dog likes the best so that when you start introducing distractions, the reward for paying attention to you will be more enticing. Gradually introduce more distraction, and reward for ignoring those distractions.
@SuperBark1 That it has bitten does not mean that he is aggressive. With this method one is not able to eliminate aggressiveness.
@badabingrockford Funny, because my American Pit Bull Terrier is severely Dog aggressive, wants to kill them. Yet this has helped her tremendously.
Hmmm... You seem to have gotten him under control WITH his cooperation WITHOUT strangling him until his tongue turns blue from lack of oxygen, WITHOUT getting your sleeve ripped and WITHOUT wresting him to the ground. Yeah, I think we know which method really works here and which method is bullshit from a hack who doesn't know what he's doing.
this dog is not agressive to people. i want to see your tactic with a dog agressive to people - including the one with the leash.
this is genius!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
DANGGGGG
This dog is not aggressive
this shit wouldnt work with a real out of control pitbull or rottie what happens if you have no treats bull shit positive crap you gota be the leader
you have no idea about dogs! you may know something about conditionig, but as far as dog behavior, you don't know what you are doing. btw, i am sure you wont allow this comment to be posted