Best Overlanding Liftkit? Clayton 3.5" Overland Plus Lift Kit w/ Rancho RS9000XL Shocks Full Install
Вставка
- Опубліковано 28 гру 2022
- #jeepgladiator #overland #adventure #build
This is the full installation of my Jeep Gladiator Suspension. I've been considering lift kits for well over a year and there are so many great kits to choose from. Like some of you, I've watched Matt from @OzarkOverlandAdventures and Shaun @TheStoryTillNow Both replaced their original suspension setups. I didn't want to have the same kinds of issues.
For my personal setup, I chose to go with the @ClaytonOffRoad 3.5" Overland Plus Kit. They have a great reputation and already have a great video for their 2.5" Gladiator Overland Plus Install. James was super helpful when deciding between the HD Springs or the Normal Springs. I'm extremely happy going with the HD springs and know that I'll be able to fully load the Gladiator out in the future with the load carrying capacity to grow! I also went with the @GoRanchoSuspension RS9000XL Shocks. I've been driving the Jeep now for about two weeks, and the Rancho Clayton Combo is really spot on. I'm cruising around city and gravel roads on as little as setting 3 front and rear currently, although I may jump back up to level 4 or 5. The Great thing about the Rancho Shocks is you have 9 different levels to play around with to find the best ride for you at a budget price! I'd love to install a full set of the Rancho RockGear in the future. I'm currently not partnered, affiliated, or sponsored by any of these companies.
Like most of you, I don't have a lift, and did this in my driveway with the help of my @harborfreight Badland Offroad Jack, and the full line of @MilwaukeeTool M12 Fuel Tools including the M12 Ratchet, M12 Fuel Ratchet, M12 Fuel Stubby Impact, M12 Fuel Hackzall (sawzall), M12 Fuel right angle impact, some Craftsman wrenches, @GEARWRENCHTools Flexible gear wrenches, dead blow hammer, and several other Metric and SAE tools from Husky, Dewalt, Icon, and others.
My 2021 Jeep Gladiator is outfitted with the following so check out my other installation and modification videos.
ARB Stubby Bumper • Jeep Gladiator Rubicon...
Badland 12,000lb APEX Winch
CVT Mt. Washington Tent • Best Hardshell Roof To...
Auxbeam switch controller • Jeep Gladiator 8 Gang ...
67 Designs Rail • 67 Designs Jeep Gladia...
Rancho RS9000XL Shocks
Clayton Offroad Overland Plus lift kit w/HD rear springs
Tactik Wheels from Quadratec
37" Toyo Open Country MTs • Jeep Gladiator 37 inch...
AEV Snorkel
9" LED Offroad Lights
Nilight LEDs
Limbrisers • Limb Riser Install on ...
Thule Rack
Yakima Rack
Surco Safari • Tennessee Adventure: ...
Tools Reviews: (I have done a lot of Tool Reviews for all your DIY projects!)
Milwaukee M12 Fuel Combo Kit • Milwaukee M12 FUEL Com...
Milwaukee M12 Fuel Right Angle Impact • Milwaukee M12 Fuel 256...
Milwaukee M12 Fuel Ratchet and Husky Impact Sockets • Milwaukee M12 Fuel 255...
Dewalt 226 Piece Tough System Tool Set • Home Depot Dewalt Tool... - Навчання та стиль
This video is over an hour long for those that are looking for a complete installation of the Clayton Offroad 3.5" Overland Plus lift kit. With power tools you could do this in a weekend. Using hand tools it might take you a couple of days. Having a lift would be a huge bonus, but I like to do the work myself. Tell me what lift kit you're looking at and What kinds of tools are you using?
Thanks for sharing, I just started watching but at an hour long I feel like you will be very detailed. My 2.5 overland + kit is going on my JLUR tomorrow!!!
Mike Congratulations! I think it’s an awesome kit. Thanks for watching!
Great video! I'm glad I found your channel before starting my Gladiator build.
Awesome glad to hear it! Thanks for watching! Hope you enjoy the new build Project Rampage. We put 20k miles on this kit with no issues and getting ready to put many more on it under the new EcoDiesel. I always appreciate positive feedback and enjoy watching others build their dreams. Check us out in instagram, and good luck with your build hit me up if you have questions!
Great video very informative. You briefly spoke about the driveshaft lengths, I’m curious if you have had any issues or have increased you driveshafts length? Thanks
Greg, Thanks for watching! No issues, still stock. I do think I need to angle my pinion up a few more degrees in the rear, but it’s rare that I fully flex it. I’ve got a newer video of it fully flexed, or you can check out my instagram.
Great video and very thorough explanation. I’m going with the same kit, did you need any special tools to extend the brake lines?
Craig, thanks for watching. You should only need a couple wrenches and a brake bleeder to install the extended brake lines. I also used a couple extra wire ties to loosely keep the lines out of the way of the tires. There’s a metal tab/shim you’ll have to pull out and then you can get your opened end wrenches on the flanges. Flare-nut wrenches are usually better (if you have a lot of corrosion).
For the Control arms you’ll need some big wrenches 🔧 for the Jam Nuts. I just used a big crescent wrench. because the specific sizes aren’t included in the jumbo wrench sets my local stores had.
You’ll definitely need a 1/2” torque wrench and you’ll want to hit all the bolts again after you drive it for a while 500miles is usually what’s recommended. I had one of my shock mount bolts work loose, so it does happen. Loc-tight is always a good idea. If you live up north, I would also coat all the bolts with some extra anti-seize.
Best of luck and hit me up on Instagram @startbuildingyourdreams when you get it installed! -Jon
Thanks for the video. I watched it back and forth when installing the same lift on my Rubicon ecodiesel. Have you added anything else since the lift? Maybe pitman arm? Also I noticed after the lift it is definitely higher than 3.5. Im closer to 4.5 and was concerned when flexing if my locker connectors will be too short and might rip out. I pulled out some of the attaching clips to allow more play. Did you have the same thoughts or issues?
Awesome and Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! Like you, I had the same concerns at full stretch/ flex with the locker harness. I took several of the factory tabs loose and used some wire ties just to keep it from getting ripped off and allow for more play. I just did a 2 Year 60,000 mile review and walk around on the Gladiator. I’ve probably put about 20k miles on the Lift kit since installing (several adventure videos too). Make sure you go back and check the torque. I had one shock bolt come loose in the 500 mile period, no issues since. If you want to hear my full opinion on the lift or swapping in extra parts I delved a little bit into that as well as a full walk around. Thanks for watching and please consider subscribing and helping grow this channel! Definitely appreciate the extra views!
Great video! You took pre-lift measurements, wondering what are the post lift measurements?
Thanks for the comment. It all depends…At first it was about 4” in the front and about 4.5” in the rear at first due to the HD rear springs. I put about 20-25k miles on it and the settled down to about 3.5”-4” depending on load…It never really squatted under the white Jeep. I just stripped Rubi in December and it’s now under my new ecodiesel Project Rampage. (new diesel coils up front). It was sitting high when installed under the new jeep with plastic bumpers, but I’ve also added a lot, lot, lot, more weight…so it really comes down to how much weight you plan to add. Non-overland build it’s not going to squat unless you’re hauling a lot. You might want the HD springs in the rear if you’re planning to haul heavy loads or build a full overland rig. The average overland build will keep its rake with HD springs. However when You add skids a rear bumper with swing outs, custom plywood bed organizer, tools, HF Jack, water, bed rack/canopy, heavy rooftop tent, kayak, batteries, fridge, and lots of gear…and it’s near the max of what the HD springs will keep up with. I have a new video coming out soon from this last weekend and will be working more with Clayton in the future…hope this helps. The guys at Clayton can also advise you based on your build and intended use.
Hey thank you for the explanations and the great video, unfortunately I don’t know how to convert the measurements of the control arms specifically in inches. can you provide that? Really appreciate!!(24.116 and 16.759) rear control arms both. How looks In the tape measure?
You can google “decimal to fraction chart” as a reference. 24.116 is slightly smaller than 24-1/8”(1/8 is .125). And 16.759 is close to 16-3/4” (3/4 is .750) as an example. The biggest thing is to ensure both control arms side by side are the exact same length. If you have any doubts you can reach out to Clayton Off-road for assistance or consult a local Off-road shop that specializes in 4WD vehicles if you don’t feel comfortable installing the kit yourself.
Thank you for your time! Totally appreciate!
Thanks for the vid! Why didn't you do the sway bar end links at the same time as the rest of the front? I'm also doing a heavy duty steering in the front, so starting on the rear.
Thanks For Watching! It was easiest to cut them all at the same time. Best of luck on your build! Big things are coming in the next few videos for 2024!
@@StartBuildingYourDreams Thanks for the reply! The only thing I need to pick up tonight is a bigger torque wrench. My neighbor calexited...used to borrow his... I plan to start in the morning. 😀
@@taz104 HF has a 25% One item on their Instagram you can screenshot and save some $$$ with between now and 1JAN24. I use the Quinn digital torque wrench that is amazingly similar to the craftsman digital ones at Lowes ;)
What setting do you use on the shocks?
Thanks for watching and asking! I personally like level 3…5&6 start getting too stiff for me even when loaded. I Used 4 across Kansas and up into Wyoming and there was no setting I liked in South Dakota it was easier to just drive slower than shaking filings loose trying to do 75 or 80 with how bad the Interstate was…lol. You can check that video out if you want to see some long distance travel and some dirt roads.
Awesome video. Now subscribed for sure as I just got a diesel rubicon gladiator. Looking at exact lift. Did you have any lift on the JT prior to this with the 37" tires on? Curious how well or not that worked out (if not) with rubbing and such.
I ran Rubi (gas Rubicon manual) for several months with 37’s and no lift, but I didn’t wheel it with them on. It’s all about the backspacing. Thats why I went with the Tactik wheels. I actually took everything off Rubi and installed it on Project Rampage (2023 ecodiesel). Let me know if you like the Project Rampage Series! Some folks go with the 2.5” lift, but I prefer the 3.5” at full flex it will stuff the 37’s into the wheel wells. Did you get a Rubicon? Are you planning an Overland build?
@@StartBuildingYourDreams Thanks for the response. Definitely will be checking out more of your videos. I did get a rubicon Far Out Edition. Eventually hope to do a full overland build with it, but in stages.
@@andrewfischer3971 Sweet! Heard they only planned to make 1000 of them. Let me know if you have any questions and feel free to reach out on instagram!
@@StartBuildingYourDreams what backspace do your wheels have? I have been looking at 4.75” backspacing with 0 offset wheels like the method racing line of wheels with the beadstay tech or whatever they call it. I think that should be about right.
How did you get the nut on the bolt for the bump stop? Neither my fingers nor my kid's fingers fit in there to hold the nut...
The drivers side wasn’t an issue there was room for my fingers and a 13mm.
Using a long hex socket helps.
On the passenger side there’s a bracket that the wires to the abs are connected to on the back side of the spring perch. That comes off with a 10mm socket and lets you get under the backside to thread the nut on the bottom.
The long hex keys are from HF…you can try holding the nut and turning the hex socket by hand
@@StartBuildingYourDreams Thanks! It was getting late last night and I didn't see that it was a bracket. Passenger side is done and now driver is out, but spring and shock are on. Couldn't get the UCA on the passenger side...about an inch short. Hoping to be able to move it into place now.
@@taz104 awesome hope the tips helped!
Can you upgrade your brakes and then make a tutorial video on that and maybe new brake lines
Greg, Thanks for watching and thanks for the suggestion! The stock brakes will still lock up all four tires even with the 120lbs+ tire and wheel combo I’m running. I understand some folks are switch to big brake kits. Not sure I’m completely sold on going that route, but if a US based company wants to donate parts for project, I’m always open to doing reviews and installations. I just rolled over 56,000 miles and it is time to start thinking about brakes.
What’s the height of the top of the jeep. Wondering if this would fit in my garage. Thanks
It’s about 78” tall, (6’-6”) to the top of the Cab not a including the rack or tent. Not all 37s are actually 37” tall. My tires are a bit worn. For planning purposes stock Rubicon tires are 33” so when you go to 37’s you’ll gain 2” in height (1/2” for every 1” the Diameter). When the lift is first installed it sits about 4-4.5”s in height. Do you have room for an additional 6-6.5”s between the top of your jeep and the lowest part of your garage door? Also due to the length of the Gladiator, you might run into issues if your driveway slopes up into the garage or if your driveway way slopes down to your garage. You can stuff up to a 39” tire with the 3.5” overland plus kit. So maybe the 2.5” kit is all you need if you want to run 37’s (if it’s a Rubicon). Hope this. Helps! -Jon
@@StartBuildingYourDreams not a rubicon. Overland eco diesel. Getting the 3.5 Clayton diesel lift kit with KO2 37’s. On 33’s now and the truck height is 72” currently. My garage is 81” inches now. That’s how much height I have.
That’s awfully close…hope it fits.
@@StartBuildingYourDreamsyeah I think so. Technically now I have an “upgraded” 1.5” Fox adjustable shock lift. I’ll have to reach out to Clayton and get some info. Thanks for your replies
I've had a Clayton kit on my Gladiator...it was complete garbage, definitely the worst riding suspension I've ever experienced but I'm considering the Rancho 9000 shocks...I'm curious how they've held up and performed since you installed them
The RS 9000xls are good. I haven’t blown any shocks…not sure how the kit you had was “garbage” unless you lived in South Dakota, were possibly overloaded on non-hd springs, or shocks couldn’t keep up with the weight of the jeep, or had the premium kit that requires service…Gladiators seem to destroy heim joints and that’s why I went with the non-serviceable Overland plus kit…The roads in South Dakota were Garbage…lol and there was no setting I could find that didn’t shake us to death we just drove 70 instead of the 75/80 posted speed because of all the gaps any other roads the jeep does just fine. I’ve put over 20k miles on the setup since installation. I’m pretty happy with it. Mine flexes under heavy loads. I like the Ranchos on level 3 and 4… 5 and 6 seem to be too stiff for my liking…Interesting let me know what you didn’t like about your kit???
@@StartBuildingYourDreams where do I start?...first Clayton misadvertised the actual lift height of the kit which screwed up all of my front end geometry...I went with the HD rear springs which were so stiff that with 700 pounds of weight on them they never even began to squat...the rear sway links nearly had to be cut off when I removed those HD springs because the hardware used in them failed, the front upper control arms come loose about 3.5 miles and constantly have to be retightened. The front springs are so stiff when I hit a crack or bump in the road it feels like the springs are full of concrete. I paired the kit with Falcon 3.3s(at Clayton's advice) and the truck rode like a dump truck...I removed the shocks and rear springs and now it's only the front end (still has Clayton springs in)that feels like a dump truck...of course when I called Clayton they didn't stand behind any of what bad advice they gave me
I install lifts for a living, Clayton kits are hands down the best riding and highest quality we offer, but they aren’t in everybody’s price range. No lift should ever outright cause your vehicle to ride like a dump truck no matter what the spring rate is, if that’s what you’re experiencing you have suspension bind from an inproper install. Clayton bushings are return to center, so they need to be left loose until the vehicle is off the lift, then tightened. Falcon shocks can definitely be firm, but in the right settings can feel pretty good. Also, how could your geometry have been thrown off if the kit is fully adjustable? Sounds like you just didn’t have somebody who knew what they were doing install the kit, the kits do provide a little more lift up front probably to remove some rake, but at the end of the day it’s all about centering everything and adjusting the arms and track bars for your specific build.
@@user-pz2lb1lq5m Thanks for the words of experience! Agree 100% on quality and overall ride of the Clayton kit. I’ve driven the same kit/setup on my Gas Gladiator and now my Diesel (Swapped diesel coils too; video coming soon). The HD springs ride a little stiff when completely empty, however when you add bumpers winches, and a bunch of overland gear in the back they settle down and are right at home.
Could have been shocks were set too firm too… Those Jam nuts are a crazy high torque spec too so nothing should be falling off or coming loose!
@@user-pz2lb1lq5m the kit only came with upper front control arms. It needed to address the front lowers, which i did later with geometry correction brackets and they made a huge improvement with the ride quality. I also had the jeep in about 6 different shops to fully inspect everything and so far nothing has been found that be causing the ride issues. I specifically had the control arms checked for bind.
Who was helping you
Thanks for watching. My helpers were “me”, “myself”, and “I”…lol. I do have two jacks and a couple extra jack stands; but really the added lift height of the HF off-road Jack let me max out the Jack stands then lower the axles. You really need the length of the 6-ton jack stands; same thing when I did the suspension on my Ram 3500. The rear springs are a pain to get into place because of the pinion. So Literally, I had to push down on one side at a time while keeping the center of the differential on the Jack. I also have a mighty vac for bleeding the brakes. So it can be done by yourself, if you have some wrenching experience, but if you have a helper that’s always an added bonus. Lots of 4-letter words that aren’t on Camera…lol