💥 You do amazing work! I am so glad that I found your video series. 👍👍👍 I just wish that the red text was "white" and a little higher on the screen. Thanks again. 👍
Thank you! I suggest you Also check the Transom on the boat, the bolts that hold the lower part of the Whalerdrive to the hull. Good luck, prepare for a lot of sanding!
Hi, thanks for the series. When you gel-coated over the green line on top of the transom on the sides did you fair or prep that junction before hand? Im re-gelcoating my entire montauk and wondering if i should just gelcoat over the original green line on the top of transom. not sure why they didnt from the get go. thanks
Yes, everything was prepped (sanded) and minimal fairing compound was used before spraying the Gelcoat. The green line was a sales gimmick to show the thickness of the glass. To me it just looked unfinished, glass should not be exposed and always sealed with Gelcoat imo. Good luck with your project, thanks for watching!
That looks like a Montauk but what year is it? Because I was always wondering when the transom changed from flush to that little kick out like your boat. And beautiful job by the way I am currently restoring a 1975 Montauk hence my question and it’s not waterlogged, but I do want to redo the transom
Looks like fantastic Job! Thankx for spraying Gelcoat and not paint.......hate to see people repaint. Question.. Do you feel the Transom board had enough to attach too? Just seems like it would put out under load. Im not an Engineer of course.
Yes plenty of area-to laminate to, Its so much stronger now when compared to how it was originally fabricated. I was surprised how Whaler only used chopped strand mat and they never laminated or bonded the original wood together (you can see that in the tear down episode). It's done right, and Much stronger now.
There is no wood on the side and there are no stringers in a Whaler hull. It’s a unibody type construction (2 pieces held together with Foam injection). It’s not traditional construction. There are some small pieces of wood in the hull to provide coring for screws but that’s pretty much it. The area-transom I replaced is the only structural wood component in the hull. Coosa is widely used in New Boats today because it works perfectly. The pourable cast type are not used in professional boat building that I’ve found and wood is getting phased out of the industry. I would do it again the same way, it’s held up perfectly, no cracks anywhere..
Yes brushing is fine, you’ll have to lightly wet sand to get a smooth shine finish once it’s cured.. For small spot repairs you can also get a Preval sprayer, $10-$15 at Home Depot. Gelcoat is thick and has to be thinned to spray, I used Patch Aid and a little Acetone. Hope this helps.
Very impressed with the whole series. Couldn't have come at a better time, I've been starving for information on how to redo a whaler partial wood transom. I'm right with up until the process gets a little more involved inside the shop. Where did you get the vinylester resin?
Excellent work ! I couldn’t tell from the camera angles ( and I’m sure you did it, repair wise) , but did you do anything extra to ensure the very lowest edge ( where the transom base meets the “wet foam” you showed getting scraped out) remains forever water intrusion free? Did you install a pvc or a new brass drain tube? I appreciate your time! Best Regards, Shawn
I removed all the foam till I got to solid glass. The Coosa was embedded in Epoxy filler then layers of 1708 glassed over it. Water can never enter now. I installed a Brass drain tube, no O ring. The O ring is a flawed design, it fails, cracks and allows water to enter, no other manufacturer uses O rings to my knowledge and Whaler stopped using them too! The diehard Whaler people still use them (not me). 5200 or 4200 seals much better and lasts 10 times longer then a O ring. The Transom is much much stronger then what they built at the factory and it looks better too. Thanks for watching, more Whaler content coming! Please subscribe
@@spinfish1434 . I appreciate your detailed reply my friend ! Great info, and I subscribed awhile ago! Love your offshore fishing for beginners tips! Stay safe
Just curious. And no judging. Amazing restoration. Did you give any thought to wrapping over the seams on the sides of the transom to keep them from ever coming undone?
No not really didn’t feel they needed reinforcement as they were still intact. We strengthened up the center section with several layers of 1708 into the shoulders overlapping on the top. It’s much stronger now then the factory chopped strand mat so it’s unlikely the seams would ever separate or delaminate. Finished it in Gelcoat looks better now then the unfinished exposed fiberglass top edge..
To be honest I didn’t care about that number (It’s not the Hull ID number). It’s a number that identifies the model and maybe some other insignificant information that I can’t even get from Whaler. I contacted them and because the boat is so old, they have no information. I thought it took away from the appearance.
Lol, not really. To be honest though the transom really wasn’t difficult at all. I think most anyone can do it, an extra set of hands always helps. It’s held up perfectly, not a single crack anywhere! *On a side note, I’ll be selling the Striper Console Mould.
Well done. This boat seemed the perfect candidate for a pour in the transom.
Oh no pour in, Coosa is far superior material.
The project is starting to take shape. You are so lucky to have a friend with the shop, the tools and the know how. You will owe him big time!
It was a joint effort for sure! The boat is a Blast! More Whaler content coming, please subscribe!
💥 You do amazing work! I am so glad that I found your video series. 👍👍👍 I just wish that the red text was "white" and a little higher on the screen. Thanks again. 👍
Doing a great job 👏
I have a 1989 BW Revenge WT/WD that needs the transom on the WD replaced. Will be attempting it this summer. Good job on the video and on the transom!
Thank you! I suggest you Also check the Transom on the boat, the bolts that hold the lower part of the Whalerdrive to the hull. Good luck, prepare for a lot of sanding!
Hi, thanks for the series. When you gel-coated over the green line on top of the transom on the sides did you fair or prep that junction before hand? Im re-gelcoating my entire montauk and wondering if i should just gelcoat over the original green line on the top of transom. not sure why they didnt from the get go. thanks
Yes, everything was prepped (sanded) and minimal fairing compound was used before spraying the Gelcoat. The green line was a sales gimmick to show the thickness of the glass. To me it just looked unfinished, glass should not be exposed and always sealed with Gelcoat imo. Good luck with your project, thanks for watching!
That looks like a Montauk but what year is it? Because I was always wondering when the transom changed from flush to that little kick out like your boat. And beautiful job by the way I am currently restoring a 1975 Montauk hence my question and it’s not waterlogged, but I do want to redo the transom
@@GeorgieCt It’s a 1984, definitely a 15’. Very similar to the 17 as far as the hull, transom area. Hope the videos help with your project.
Looks like fantastic Job! Thankx for spraying Gelcoat and not paint.......hate to see people repaint. Question.. Do you feel the Transom board had enough to attach too? Just seems like it would put out under load. Im not an Engineer of course.
Yes plenty of area-to laminate to, Its so much stronger now when compared to how it was originally fabricated. I was surprised how Whaler only used chopped strand mat and they never laminated or bonded the original wood together (you can see that in the tear down episode). It's done right, and Much stronger now.
nice job but wonder about wood on side of repair and stringer were they dry too? how has it held up and would you do anything differently ?
There is no wood on the side and there are no stringers in a Whaler hull. It’s a unibody type construction (2 pieces held together with Foam injection). It’s not traditional construction. There are some small pieces of wood in the hull to provide coring for screws but that’s pretty much it. The area-transom I replaced is the only structural wood component in the hull. Coosa is widely used in New Boats today because it works perfectly. The pourable cast type are not used in professional boat building that I’ve found and wood is getting phased out of the industry. I would do it again the same way, it’s held up perfectly, no cracks anywhere..
Awesome, Great share
Can I brush or roll on the gel coat I have small spots to repair and no access to air compressor paint gun
Yes brushing is fine, you’ll have to lightly wet sand to get a smooth shine finish once it’s cured.. For small spot repairs you can also get a Preval sprayer, $10-$15 at Home Depot. Gelcoat is thick and has to be thinned to spray, I used Patch Aid and a little Acetone. Hope this helps.
Very impressed with the whole series. Couldn't have come at a better time, I've been starving for information on how to redo a whaler partial wood transom. I'm right with up until the process gets a little more involved inside the shop. Where did you get the vinylester resin?
The Vinylester is better then Polyester, Amazon, Fiberglass depot $85.99 came with hardner. Hope this helps.
1 Gallon
Excellent work ! I couldn’t tell from the camera angles ( and I’m sure you did it, repair wise) , but did you do anything extra to ensure the very lowest edge ( where the transom base meets the “wet foam” you showed getting scraped out) remains forever water intrusion free? Did you install a pvc or a new brass drain tube? I appreciate your time! Best Regards, Shawn
I removed all the foam till I got to solid glass. The Coosa was embedded in Epoxy filler then layers of 1708 glassed over it. Water can never enter now. I installed a Brass drain tube, no O ring. The O ring is a flawed design, it fails, cracks and allows water to enter, no other manufacturer uses O rings to my knowledge and Whaler stopped using them too! The diehard Whaler people still use them (not me). 5200 or 4200 seals much better and lasts 10 times longer then a O ring. The Transom is much much stronger then what they built at the factory and it looks better too. Thanks for watching, more Whaler content coming! Please subscribe
@@spinfish1434 . I appreciate your detailed reply my friend ! Great info, and I subscribed awhile ago! Love your offshore fishing for beginners tips! Stay safe
Just curious. And no judging. Amazing restoration. Did you give any thought to wrapping over the seams on the sides of the transom to keep them from ever coming undone?
No not really didn’t feel they needed reinforcement as they were still intact. We strengthened up the center section with several layers of 1708 into the shoulders overlapping on the top. It’s much stronger now then the factory chopped strand mat so it’s unlikely the seams would ever separate or delaminate. Finished it in Gelcoat looks better now then the unfinished exposed fiberglass top edge..
@@spinfish1434 Looks a thousand times better, thats what got me thinking. Thanks!
The polyester fairing compound and gel coat bonded fine with the epoxy resin?
We didn't use Epoxy Resin, we used Vinylester Resin..Watch ep. 4
correction. Ep. 3
Gel coated over the hull number?
To be honest I didn’t care about that number (It’s not the Hull ID number). It’s a number that identifies the model and maybe some other insignificant information that I can’t even get from Whaler. I contacted them and because the boat is so old, they have no information. I thought it took away from the appearance.
@@spinfish1434 Fair enough, yours is approx 2000 away from mine and both 1984 so I thought it was a serial number in order.
Want to do another one?
Lol, not really. To be honest though the transom really wasn’t difficult at all. I think most anyone can do it, an extra set of hands always helps. It’s held up perfectly, not a single crack anywhere! *On a side note, I’ll be selling the Striper Console Mould.