Rear Axle Bearing, Seal, E-Brake shoes, Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement Chevrolet Silverado 2500 HD
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- Опубліковано 25 сер 2024
- In this video we show how to replace the; Rear Axle Bearing, Rear Axle Seal, E-brake Shoes, Rear Brake Pads and Brake Rotor. On a 2000-2007 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 HD or 3500 HD.
If you have any further interest please visit www.2carpros.com
*Disclaimer: Please use all safety precautions
Very good video.Not sure where I originally got this from, but I wrote it on the wall of my garage.2500HD Dana 60: spindle nut - torque to 52 Ft/Lbs., back off nut 'till finger tight, line up keyway. 8 axle nuts - cross torque to 152 f.t/lbs. I don't have a factory manual so I can't verify it, but so far, so good 2 years later.
One of the best "how to" videos on the net. Thorough and easy to understand, even for a beginner. Excellent cautions, and tips...
Thanks for watching!
A couple of comments:
-the new oil seal should always be lubed where it rides on the machined axle. Some seals come pre-lubed, which is perhaps why it was not mentioned in the video
-I would never use a steel drift on a new bearing race. Always use brass/ bronze so that a slip doesn't damage the race surface
-Most procedures recommend a light packing of the bearings with wheel bearing grease. This ensures a long run in time without danger of running out of lube. The differential oil will eventually work its way into the bearing and wash away the small amount of grease.
-I like to torque the axle nut to preload the bearings to the manufacturers spec, and then back off the nut about a quarter turn. Then, holding the socket I hand tighten the bearing nut as much as I can. Lock it in with the key or cotter pin. I have been doing it this way for years and have never had a failure. You still need to spin the part to check for the proper amount of end float and that the bearings are not binding. But, it is pretty fool-proof!
-Lastly, all of the capscrews should have been wire brushed to clean their threads, and either an anti-seize applied to the threads or a thread locker, as recommended by the manufacturer. I believe that the axle bolts securing the flange require a thread locker.
A very informative video, considering the number of procedures that you covered!
yes the torque isusually 52 FT LBS
what about using bathroom caulking? haha
Not all seals should be lubricated before installation. The Teflon main seal in my BMW motorcycle specifically said to install it dry as the Teflon seal needs to transfer some Teflon to the metal part to ensure long life. Lubricant prevents this transfer and causes seal leakage and a shorter seal life. Best to follow the seal makers recommendations, but if a Teflon seal, think twice before lubing it unless the manufacturer says to lube it.
Don't forget the anti seize and to crack open reservoir before squeezing in caliper pistons.Great video!
One thing I do that you folks didn't is cool the race (Dry Ice) works good or put it in the freezer for a while. Heat the housing in the oven to 280 deg. and assemble as quickly as possible. It will take a little less "BEATING" to get the races to bottom. Everything else was done to perfection, (brass drift is safer) when seating the races and inspect the bearings to make sure no dirt etc got into them. Seals go in dry with a clean surface, resist the inclination to apply some RTV to the outer seal surface, it isn't needed. If doing a truck with Brake shoes instead of Disk I recommend replacing the brake servo at this time. These are my personal preferences, Thanks for such a great detailed video and like everyone else I say: ditch the damn distracting music or at least reduce it to a barely audible level.!!
Great detailed tutorial, One thing I will mention though is removing the brake reservoir cap before pushing the caliper pistons back. This is to release pressure, but great detailed tutorial, I'm doing my brakes on a Dodge RAM 2500 and it's pretty much identical to this.
The bearing not shown how to remove I learn in these following posts.
The clip is not at all a problem. I used needle nose pliers and a wood clamp. Key thing is to fit, hold right tension on pliers before clamping. Once fully compressed use a small magnet pen to help it out gently! Taken my in and out a few times already. Yes, tap on bearing to relieve pressure against it before trying to remove it. Should spin in slot when ready to be removed.
this video was of great help, couldnt of done it without it
Thank you so much for the comment!
I found out why you don't show the outside bearing replacement. There is an inner snap ring, that is strong as Hercules and a major pain to get out. You should have covered this. You better have a heavy duty pair of needle nose pliers, as standard snap ring pliers will not work on this. Lovely.
Great point... We aren't watching because its a secret and we want you to succeed... We are looking for what we are up against and what to expect doing it ourselves. Not a watered down version of how "professional" you can be. Also the music in the background is a distraction... This is a how to video not entertainment video
I bought a fairly cheap curved nose pliers, but the tips didn't really grip the snap ring hooks: just slid off after I compressed the ring and tried to raise it. So I filed an angle into the tips of the pliers so that it would grab: worked well. Then I had to file the pliers into a different shape to get it back on. Fun!
Nice video. I like your methodical approach. I would like to see a real torque wrench used when it says to “torque to factory specs” rather than an air wrench though. Most things were well done otherwise than missing this important detail.
Good video but background music is distracting and annoying.
I don't know why so many people think that the viewer wants to hear music with a drumbeat while learning.
Cry harder. Your tears might be the correct weight for the gear oil, thus saving valuable time
Great videos, very helpful for the home mechanic i aspire to be. Recently purchased a 1998 k3500 4x4 dually that needed a lot of work. Your videos were of great help, thanks for your knowledge! I got my rear drums / shoes / bearings / seals + front roeters / pads / calipers / bearings changed. Also the differential video was helpful.
My second comment. 1st was my technique to getting the clip inside of hub, in & out.
This comment is about torque! Do not use the hand tighten method then back off. I had found that the nut turned several rotations after touching bearing... as I began torquing it to around 55lbs. It will eventual bottom out. Rotate hub as you tighten. I backed off a full 1/4 turn. About 2 notches past keyway.
No way should you just snug it up and back off. I'm guessing the bearing had pressed up that clip inside- something. My 2 cents.
Very disappointed that you would leave out the inner clip removal for the second bearing. This is a chore in itself. Not including it tells me that you had to fight with that clip to get it out, as I did. Only difference is that, when I complete my video, I will include this fight with that clip in my video. Finishing the bearing install tomorrow, posting it soon after. Great video, you just make it seem much easier than it really is.
Got a link? Looked through your channel but couldn't find it, wouldn't mind watching.
Wow, Another awesome video presented by Two Brothers. Love you guys
Overall a good video other than the previously mentioned items. Thanks for the videos you do. Much appreciated. A little more definitive procedure on the axle nut tightening procedure would be helpful.
Great video. Very thorough and good description of the entire process. Thanks!
Wow, great video. We are going to replace ours this weekend. This is incredibly helpful, thank you very much!! Great job!
+steve klopping Glad you liked it, please subscribe to our channel
Thank you for comment we are always happy help.
2CarPros
Thanks for the vid.
But maybe you should do it again replacing both bearing
& the method required?
all those new parts except the outer bearing.
Just my thoughts.
informative. thank you .
Hey there, I am starting this project from the axle up. could you send me a link of the parts?
Good video no personal opinions or BS just facts of he task
Hey thank you so much for watching!
So, how tight is the right torque for the axle nut?? And, where exactly in this video did the old bearings come out? I see you taking out the seal, then putting in the seal and bearings.
Awesome job you explain it real well
I have new found respect for mechanics!!! Thanks for the video.
Hi, great video! As asked below already.... why do you say NOT to lube the inner seal rubber when re-installing the hub??
Thank you for making this video, was extremely helpful.
We really like getting these comments. Thank you for replying please subscribe if you have not already.
What size is the Axle remover tool
Wish I'd paid a little more attention to this video before I put the inner race back in: this provides a clear picture of how far they go. I think I did it right, but I suppose I'll find out...
I great channel . Do you know the trick to removing the front axle if they don’t come out to change a front seal on my 2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 Duramax ? If you have trouble pulling the axle Drivers side apparently is harder to pull . Thanks for your help
I like you didn't show the "torque to manufacture spec" parts. ;-)
It's almost like you don't absolutely need to torque spec every last bolt on your truck. Thanks for watching!
Tighten the wheel bearing adjusting nut using the J 2222-C.
Rotate the hub in the opposite direction to the way the adjuster nut is turning.
Ensure the inner bearing and the seal seats against the spindle shoulder.
TIGHTEN
Adjusting nut to 70 Nm (52.0 lb ft).
Turn the adjusting nut counterclockwise until the nut is loose using the J 2222-C.
Turn the adjusting nut clockwise until the nut contacts the bearing cone. Torque on the nut must be zero to finger tight
sert the adjusting nut lock key into the keyway using one of the following procedures:
If the adjusting nut slot is in alignment with the keyway in the axle spindle, insert the adjusting nut lock key into the keyway in the axle spindle.
IMPORTANT :
Do not turn the adjusting nut more than one slot counterclockwise in order to align the adjusting nut slot with the keyway in the axle spindle.
If the adjusting nut slot is not aligned with the keyway in the axle spindle, turn the adjusting nut counterclockwise until the adjusting nut slot is in alignment with the keyway in the axle spindle and insert the adjusting nut lock key.
Why did you leave out the removal of the outer bearing, with the lockring and the proper way to remove the ring that retains the bearing?
ABSOLUTELY, MY REMARK AS WELL, BUT ALREADY POSTED, Smart Viewer..
So what is the torque spec for the 8 bolts holding the axle in the housing? Are they called axle flange bolts? If so then Alldata is saying 115-136 ft. lbs depending on axle size. Oh and I just performed this on a 2009 2500hd. So it looks like an identical procedure for the next gen pickup as long as it is 3/4 or 1 ton
And for those that asked you can get the tool from any auto parts store., It's a 2-5/8" axle nut socket tool for most 3/4 ton and 1-ton. It will need to have 6 teeth on it. Will probably cost $20-$30ish
Have to disagree. I watched your video to make sure I wa not crazy. I bought two different sizes with no luck. I finally left truck at shop and brought axle nut with me. I have been to 6 stores in two days with no luck obtaining proper socket.
+Adam Vignault might have to grind a little bit off teeth for proper fit
Alex Van Boekel That is exactly what I ended up doing. I actually put the socket in a vise teeth up and filed them until the nut fit properly. Thanks for the reply.
Outstanding video and very informative
Glad you think so!
I just subscribed as I have a 3500 an I can't find anyone that knows how to do rear axle seals.
Very small town. Thank you for this video. You guys are Great. Can you just install the axle
seal without installing the race? Thank you.
Unlike the other folks, I like the music. What I would like better though is if you told use what size the Torx is and a list of possibilities. I was metal to metal and was only able to remove the 2 18mm bolts and replace the pads that way and a little warning that the 18's are lock tited in place.
Torx is t-55, and yeah... Lock-tite. You can see it in the video, but it isn't mentioned
very good mechanic Dunn just right👍
So, how do you set the axle bearing preload?? Do you know or not?
What size socket is needed for the axle nut?
What part number was your axel nut removal tool socket ?
Good video, but Why skip the outer bearing? Also possible spindle sleeve for inner seal?
Congratulations, excellent work
the wheel bearing retaining nut tightening procedure makes no sense. tighten till it stop then back off too the key inserts?????
Turbotomass the way that I do it is I will tighten the hub but until I feel drag on the hub, or the hub stops turning by hand, once that happens I back the nut off a quarter turn. The process is called setting bearing pre-load
Actual service manual torque is 52ft lbs, while tightening to spec, rotate the hub in the opposite direction , this seats the seal that does not spin on axle like traditional seals do. once tightened, loosen nut, then tighten BY HAND to closest slot for key to slide in, . If the proper tools are not used or tightening procedure is not followed, its a guarantee that seal and/or bearings will fail. Before I knew this I went through alot of re-do's. the rest of bearing install is standard. DO NOT forget to make sure gear lube is back in the hub area when done, ie; jack up opposite side,or drive on hillside or ditch so gear lube will flow to hub. it takes less that 5 miles to destroy hub and axle housing that is dry
What size axle hub nuts socket do I need for a 2001 Chevrolet Silverado dually 3500.
Please can you send me the link to the one I need please
@@keiths2491 Amen! This nonsense of cranking until it stops, etc. will waste a lot of wheel bearings.
What if you never used the emergency brake since new and rotor won't budge. I used a couple push bolts to push rotor off.
What's the torque for the nut. What's the proper depth for self adjuster?
At 11 mins 50 seconds, you say to NOT lube the axle where the seal rides. Doesn't this seal spin on the axle? Why would you not lube that? Additionally, so you're aware, the bearing retaining nut gets torqued to 55 ft lbs per the manual, then backed off to the closest key slot.
+wjbirm The seal does not rotate on the axle, it rotates between the axle tube and the outside of the hub. It's a two part seal with the rotation coming between the parts. Do not use any lube on either the axle tube or where the outside of the seal contacts the hub.
+John Baker Little late for this information/advice.
+wjbirm Others in the future can use it. I am just doing this procedure now.
@@wjbirm Getting ready to do my seals, not leaking but as preventive maintenance, so his advice is helping 3 years later. Every wheel seal I've done rotates on the axle so I would've thought this one does, too.
@@johnbaker3357 8 years later... Thanks bud!
nice and good demonstration
The video show a bearing replacement, but then also seems to show an outer bearing inside of the hub. Nothing is ever mentioned of the outer bearing. Shouldn't it also be replaced? Thanks
Goinup! It was mentioned but not shown, it is the same process both should be replaced.
What about replacing the outer bearing?
Awesome video !! Thanks much
does this same method apply on a 2000 Chevy blazer LT? I need to do a rear brake job on mine , rotors, brake pads, backing plate and emergency shoes . Do you have a video on this?
So these bearings don't get packed with anything? They just get lubed up with gear oil?
Yes just gear oil
Thanks for posting!
Is the process identical for my 2012 Chevy Express 2500?
What about forcing contaminants into the ABS system when you compress the calipers. ASE says clamp the rubber lines and open the bleeders to prevent contamination in the system, then bleed the brakes.
+david moye The brake fluid should be contaminant free, but you can clamp the line and open the bleeder to relieve the pressure to allow the caliper to retract.
david moye
Yep you are correct. I find that a high percentage of shops and DIY'ers just push the old fluid back up to their abs and master cylinder. Open the bleeder and hose this old fluid into a 20 Oz bottle.
If you're worried about forcing contaminants back into the ABS system, I am, this is a good time to completely flush the system from the top with fresh DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid from a newly opened can. You should flush the brake system every 24 months or so anyway to rinse out H2O contaminated fluid... Yes even an apparently sealed system will pick up H2O from the air. H2O corrodes the iron and aluminum brake components is why most old cars have brown or black brake fluid. The dark fluid is contaminated with water and various flavors of iron oxide.
david moye
excellent video
Thanks!
question, all i need is to adjust my parking brake. I replaced the drums/rotor and i bought new brake pads. The original complaint was that the brake actuator is traveling all the way to the floorboard with no brake pressure. Do I have to remove the drive axle in order to do this? I guess the question is whether or not I can remove the brake shoes much like demonstrated in your video WITHOUT removing the axle. Can I fit the shoe assembly over the axle hub and will I be able to remove the retaining clips.
Second question. If I am forced to remove the axle, do I also have to replace all the seals?
***** It seems that if I chose NOT to remove the axle hub, I would have to attempt ti piecemeal the assembly of the brake shoes directly into the wheel assembly. That could prove very frustrating to attempt. I suppose I could carefully remove the axle hub, wipe it dry, and carefully re-install it afterwards without replacing any seals. I will have to purchase the axle nut socket you demonstrated. The vehicle is 12 years old.... perhaps the axle hubs are close to failure anyway?
Great video if only you had shown the outer bearing as well.
Sorry bud but you beat the hub on with a mallet. You install the nut and you tighten it to the specific torque.
I wish there was a straight forward answer on weather or not to grease the rear bearings on a full floating axle or just to coat them in gear oil. This video you just coat them in gear oil but I've also heard you pack them and when I took the hub off my Dana 60 full floater they were packed to the rim in grease, I just want to do this right
+ArcticAstrophysics The gear oil is formulated to lubricate the bearings completely.
Dealers Choice.
Replace rear axle seal on the F3 50 Ford 2006 XLT Ford super duty
how do i know if the axle nut is on tight/loose enough? should i have in/out play witht theu hub about 1mm-4mm?
+Alex Van Boekel There should only be a small amount of play, tighten it up and then back off a little and install the cotter pin so it spins without a lot of play..
Thanks for the video very informative. Would you happen to know what type or weight of gear oil I should put back in my rear axle? Thanks
My 2001 Chevy 2500HD rear axle uses 75W-90 gear oil.
Great video very well described,
What is the gear oil you guys using for truck? I have a 2000 chevy silverado that I planning to working on it, rear axle seal ring,and I looking for advice.
Thank you! We used a synthetic 75W-90.
Awesome video, one of the best I've seen. Btw, what years is this for?
ocpunkfan The rear end is very common for all years of the Heavy Duty models with only slight changes. The vehicle we did this video on was a 2000-2007 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD.
+2CarPros Why didn't you address the other bearing in the hub?
Good vid, Thankyou!
What size spindle nut tool was that, do you have a part number for it?
Great video
Thank you for watching!
How do I replace the spindle on a GMC 3500, 10.5 rearend
Could you have adjusedt the park brake with the tire off? And I wasn't sure if you tighten or expand the parking brake counterclockwise or clockwise?
Note the position of the adjuster star wheel carefully. You want to lenghten the adjuster so turn the wheel the appropriate way. Best to note which way to turn it while in assembly. It may be the opposite way on the other wheel.
I was wondering where you put the oil back in once you put everything back in place. Like the hub seal is sealing in the oil. Where do you fill that back up?
'The rear differential in the center of the axle has a fill hole with a bolt. Remove the bolt, fill it till it overflows or within a half inch (to allow for expansion). I just fill it up till it overflows and call it good.
@butchtheiw God damn! Thanks for the reply! My trucks been sitting for 2 years. 😆
amazing job!!!!
Good video except don't impact Chrome sockets and you are supposed to tighten down the axle bolts in a star pattern not in a clockwise motion.
Great videos, now subscribed. Question Why don't lube the pads where they slide on the SS clips? You left them dry. Should they not be lubed? Would like to know. Thanks.
Thank you for the sub! We left them dry so no grease would migrate on to the pads.
It looks like there is a second bearing in the hub (outside), that is not addressed. Why not?
+Charles Collins good question Charles that's the most difficult part.
Do you have or know where instructions or a video can be found for that outer bearing. I'm desperately trying to fix my husbands truck before he comes home after being gone a couple months and this one area is that part I'm having the hardest time wrapping my head around.
Tiffany Y It's the same way as the outer bearing , there's a retaining clip in side, you can see it. take the clip out, and the bearing will come out. I don't understand why they don't show this! . ?
Tiffany Y -try the Motor City Mechanic channel for the information you are looking for. It's a great channel for this.
Okay question : do you slide the axle bearing on before you put the hub back on?
Yes the bearings and the seal should be installed on the hub before being put back on the axle.
How do you know how much to loosen the axle nut?
I see this says its for 00-07, would it be very similar for the 08-13?
dalej99 Yes they have used this same rear end setup for a lot of body styles. It might look a little different and newer but it is still the same process.
Thanks. I took it apart this past weekend. Many similarity's, but some differences as well. On my 08, the rotor and hub are one piece, pressed together via lug studs. Mine was also all bolt heads, no torx used.
dalej99 so does the rotor and hub come as one piece from parts store
No it doesn't. You have to press the studs out, then its easy 2 pieces.
I replaced the rotor a month ago now the seal went can I reuse it???
Is it recommended to pull the hub to do parking brake shoes for ease of access? Or is it just because of the leak? If so, I'd imagine you could just replace the seal or should both be done for pm sake...
Also wondering this.
Something caused the seal to start leaking. Usually it will be the bearing that is closer to the seal, but not always. Good practice would be to change both bearings since you are already that deep into it because if that bearing is bad, you will have to redo everything they did in this video. I’m just a novice and have had no professional experience in the past 43 years. But further research from other videos can help show the procedure for changing the outer bearing.
Thank You Perfect
Thanks for watching!
Get the proper tools makes life a lot easier
You definitely should’ve included removing the snap ring and wheel bearing in this video.
Hey guys,I was replacing my hub after the bearing destructed itself.So since the snap ring was chewed up I purchased a used hub. when taking out the old bearing I noticed it's put in first,race pressed on top. which one is correct for a gmc
I'm not sure I understand the question but in the video it shows the correct way for assembly.
+2CarPros Do you have a video or instructions on replacing that outer bearing? I've been able to use this video for everything but that part.
Do you have any information on the axle nut removal tool? I can't find one locally.
W1270 from Advance Auto.
If seals are good do they need to be replaced? I'm just doing e-brake
The seals are $13 to $35 each depending on where you get them (Rock Auto or the dealer), Do you really want to do that job again when they do leak? Same with the bearings, but unless mine are pitted I am not changing them.
i have a issue with my truck, 2005 2500 hd silverado. well it hops but from the back, i have changed shocks, brakes, rotors, new tires. i just dont know what could make it hop. maybe a seal? or the axle is bent? give me your thoughts...
+Juan Cano sounds like a bent wheel
+Summer Jones when i changed the tires, i changed it with the rim included, so im not sure what it could be
Could be axle wrap/twist from your u-bolts and/or leaf springs or perches being broken or loose or mounted incorrectly.
Stay gold.
When you took your hub off the bearing was on the axle shaft, mine was still
In the hub. Why is that?
A little late but Ive also found sometimes when the seal fails it will come apart in 2 pieces. Always make sure the seal is completely removed. Theres another video on here where someone put a seal over the old one causing it to fail so the dude had to pry off the original seal stuck to the axle
I just did this and the bearing stayed inside the hub what do I do !!!!!
What is the part number for the axle nut tool or can I just go to an auto part store to get this? Great video!!
This should be the correct axle nut tool: Powerbuilt 648475 Spindle Nut Socket, Six Outer as some have said in other post on here you may have to file the six teeth for proper fit.
Thanks very much for the help, It seems that there are a couple of sockets for this.
I actually bought a different one then I mentioned here on amazon and it did not fit quite right so when I use it again I am going to file the teeth down a bit.
Dang, I just ordered it from Amazon.com. Oh well I guess I will just file it.
gerry6310 sorry for the confusion. the one I order was a different one then the one I told you about. mine was a tight fit. the 1 I mentioned and you ordered may fit fine. If you just ordered it you may be able to still cancel it. Sorry!
What part number/make is that axle nut removal tool?
+fred castledine You can remove the axle nut with a moderately long punch with a small tip then take the nut with you to compare. I found one that fit at CarQuest. O'Reilly's had one that was cheaper but took some minor grinding with a dremel tool or such on the stubs that fit into the nut.
hey guys, I need help on a problem with my silverado, every time I go forward, the back wheels brake lightly, do you guys know what's the problem with that?
Does your truck have drum rears or disk?
Funny how every vid skips the removal and install of the outer bearing and snap ring
When you complete the job and the parking brake that you hoped is better, still goes almost to the floor and barely holds the vehicle, what then?
You must adjust the parking brake shoes before you install the rotor if thats okay you must adjust the cables.
@@KenLavacot I see no adjustment for the cables. I had to remove a section and add a turnbuckle, perfect now
Didn't you have to bleed the brake's ( The rear brake's ) . looks like you took off the rear caliber's . you broke the system!!!! ( Air) got in). ?
Yes I am aware that the part numbers will be different on different truck - but GM is almost al l the same
Then you realize how annoying people can be when they demand the exact part number for their truck Heaven forbid there is a silent refresh. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros yes - did you read my second comment under the first ? common sense would dictate that if the person had the same truck then he is saved the search for the part #'s - again MOST chevys are the same. Nonetheless the internet will bring up much more information when you can start with some info thats related - been doing this car stuff for 55 years - no more, retired and watching others work.........LOL. If you want to make someone angry you tell they a lie, if you want to make they furious you tell them the truth; the 9 commandment ? you get a B+ for effort.
P.S. enough with all the ads...........
good video, but the term "self adjuster" was used. That term is incorrect for the type of adjuster that is on this particular truck.
+iweld Alexander Sorry that is just an adajuster
Only good thing about this music is it kinda reminds me of sonic the hedgehog on the sega genesis 😂
That was the first video game I had ever played! Thanks for watching!
And the music is for what?
I would've been an excellent video if you have taken that music out of it. There are other ways to display you music choice. Instructional videos are learning tools when compose accordingly. Explanation can hardly be understood due to that background noise.