Game Design -Q&A with Room Escape Artist -Part 2 prop making set building
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- Опубліковано 20 сер 2020
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Check them out on UA-cam: / @roomescapeartist
Send photos of your work to: mark@gratsets.com
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/ gratuitous_sets - Наука та технологія
Tight!
I can't comprehend such cruelty.
Paint it black - yes!!
;) ...like the Gratuitous Sets Laboratories shirt I don't have... *tears*
Lots of valuable pro tips, thanks for sharing them with us all. Looking forward to the next video.
You wanna shirt?
@@GratuitousSets Oh yes. Who wouldn't?
I can send you one at cost if want- or you can wait a bit for us to open our merch up to the public. Send me your size and address on our Facebook page
Awesome. I'll send a message, would love a shirt.
Say, will the merch store have those patented, brick wall painting, Gratuitous Sets Laboratories Moon Boots?! #hopeso :-)
I can't believe you're the first one to comment about that! I wore the wrong boots for the spraying part, so I made those covers and got really comfortable looking stupid. We have ONE 2X shirt. You have Venmo?
Love these Q&As!
Thank you sir! Do you think you're going to do the resources website?
@@GratuitousSets yes! Trying to think of a good domain right now, will start coding something up this weekend.
@@GratuitousSets I got the beta site up and going. Not sure if I was speaking to Matt or Mark. I am emailing Mark the URL to check it out.
I got the email- i'll check when i have a moment😁
Two Gratuitous Sets videos in the same week. It must be my Birthday.
Mine too!!!
This question is for Matt: Any recommended resources for someone trying to self-teach themselves about all the electronics and technology that goes into these rooms? Just short of getting an electrical engineering degree, it feels like there is SO much to know! Thank you!
Paul McWhorter is an electronics tutorial guru. Please mention that we directed you to him. 😁 ua-cam.com/users/mcwhorpj
Gratuitous Sets thank you!:)
Cannot say enough good things about Paul's tutorials. He takes the you from noob to "Hey, I can do this!" with lessons that are extremely easy to understand. @@GratuitousSets
OK I said it about part 1 but it fits so well here... Rock Stars!
So for builders I kind of said this last time also but it applies even more here. The closer to the audience you are and the more interactive something is the more $$$$$ I'm coming out of theatre and film so interaction is MUCH more controlled but actors are only a step or two above the public and they will touch / play with anything they can so... Not quite rock, but could work for some situations, is a technique we used to use for that rough interior stucco texture that was everywhere in schools and government buildings. We just added sand to some disgusting "institutional color" latex paint and rolled it on. We used to make walls with cardboard (technically corrugated paper) that we got from bicycle boxes from a shop down the street. Use super cheap masking take (you want it thin) to cover any holes and slather the texture pain on and it looked great from a foot or two away. With MDF you could probably get away with closer, but cardboard is relatively fragile so that trick only works for a non touchable surface. For a bunch more $$ you can spray a polyurethane hard coat (or find a shop that can because the equipment and toxicity are pretty high) on just about anything and it will be durable as hell. We used to use fly screen to form the shape with wooden supports, spray it and remove the supports. It doesn't really mater much what your original was made from because the hard coat is just fantastically strong.
I would also strongly support the coherency argument. You are creating a world that this story is going to take place in. EVERYTHING has to support that world. When everything does it becomes an immersive experience. You will get the suspended disbelief to help you, so if you tell/ show people where this "world" ends (ie top of the walls) stuff outside the world won't matter much. But everything IN the world maters a LOT.
Anyway this was loaded with great info. If I was 30 years younger I would take a train down to their shop and hang out till they let me help and learn. Which is kind of how I got into theatre and film. If this is what you want to do find some people who do it well and go work for free till you have enough chops to get paid. It is really the best way to learn.
I’m really enjoying your comments! These are great ideas and I really appreciate you taking the time to write such a coherent explanation. It is super valuable and I’m going to figure out how to “pin” your comment to the top. Question: when you said “polyurethane” did you mean polyurea- like truck bed liner? If so, YES! I need to play with it more, and the reason I didn’t mention it is because I’ve never tried it over styrofoam (EPS) and I didn’t want to give out a bad idea. Was I correct? How does it act over EPS (if you’ve tried it)
@@GratuitousSets I am 90% sure it was Polyurethane but polyurea is apparently pretty common now also. I didn't do the spraying at the shop. It's not a cheap process, the guns are pricey and the pump system is pricey, and the material comes in a pair of 55 gallon drums, And you need to have a place to spray that can be sealed and the person doing the spraying needs to be in full hazmat suit with a respirator. I did do Polyurethane expanding foam casting for an inventor I worked for once. We cast a variety of parts because Polyurethane is pretty much impervious to chemicals and solvents and these parts were going into some dodgy locations. The reason for all the precautions is that Polyurethane will literally stick to anything. It will stick to your eyeballs! and nothing dissolves it well and certainly nothing that one could use on living tissue. So on your skin it will eventually come off because you shed skin, but hair, you have to cut it off (don't ask how I know). It is really important to have good breathing protection if you are spraying because it will stick to your lungs. The pour stuff if you design the mold correctly and pour the right amount will expand and form a hard glossy surface as it expands and puts a lot of pressure on the mold. So when you pop it out it's done. But the mold has to be strong enough to take the pressure. I didn't get the blow hole covered fast enough once and it shot out and created this stalagmite on the 20 foot ceiling.
The hardcoat stuff we used at the shop was felominaly strong and tough. For a trade show once we built this stetson hat that was 10-12 feet in diameter. The main form was window screen and then a lot of wood supports on the inside so it wouldn't sag with the weight of the hard coat. Once the hardcoat was cured, I think it was under an hour, we were able to remove all of the supports and the whole thing was hard as a rock. You could probably have walked on it, we did with another prop with a similar build.
I know they sprayed the same stuff on a large sculpted piece of EPS for the opera. Polyurethane is like epoxy in that it cures by the two parts chemically reacting to each other so there is no solvent to eat EPS. It does get hot as it cures so if you are casting that is something to keep in mind. Metal molds will get to hot to touch if you have poured enough to get the hard skin. The hard coat is so thin that I doubt it would get hot enough to melt the EPS, plus it's not being constrained and has a lot of exposed surface.
The hardcoat basically doesn't expand. The expanding foams come in a variety of densities, so for casting you could use a fairly low density foam and by overfilling get a very dense hard surface. BTW for playing around you can get a pretty usable foam at your home improvement store by getting the stuff packaged for filling post holes. It's a lot more structural than the stuff they sell for insulating and it's in a nice manageable quantity. Even if you don't pressure mold it you will get a skin that is pretty hard but it won't be as thick and so not as tough.
And for all you DIY's itching to play with it all of the above precautions apply. It will stick to anything and everything it touches and it is never coming off. The exception being mold release, use plenty or your mold will be a cautionary tale.
First!!! 🤪
Yes you are! Nicely done, sir