Importance of warming up=watch the start of a 2 stroke dirt bike race. They don’t kick and go, they are blipping the throttle and letting it get right for a couple minutes before they launch. Excellent explanation of what’s causing some of the premature wear and what to do and when!
I would definitely be keen to see a when it's time to change them out series, air filters, bars/chains, AV mounts. Other stuff that just wears out with use
Excellent info brother. I’ve been preaching for years to anyone running 2 strokes about the importance of letting these engines warm up to avoid excessive p/c wear and cold seizures. Keep up with the informative videos.
This is pure GOLD info. Your right nobody ever talks about how to tell a worn piston before it explodes and costs you a cylinder too. Thanks dude this one of the best videos out of the 100's I have watched. YES please keep it coming.
Thank you so much for your help. I'm a rookie with Stihl, got bronze working on silver. So much to learn, this video helped tremendously. It was explained perfectly. Thank you
One of my favorite you tube guys is hotsaws101 he has amazing falling videos and really technical stuff and does really in depth shows of things. I really dig this stuff Gordy thanks man.
Great Job Gordy some real gold right here keep up the great work man!!!! Tube salad coming in clutch with the stand hopefully no agents show up to his house over it lol.
Thanks Gordy, Great video! Not letting a saw warm up properly and cool down is a common issue I see folks do. Another thing to keep in mind especially with aftermarket pistons is to measure them and make sure they measure the proper tolerance for your cylinder before installing, nothing worse than replacing a piston only to find out it was too loose or tight and fails. Also check your ring gap and chamfer the edges of the piston. I can attest to the fact that with proper maintenance, good gas and oil, proper tuning, and replacing the piston and rings before failure one can get many years out of a oem cylinder. I own several with 25+ years on the original cylinders production logging. One thing I don't hear folks talk about that I have personally experienced is having debris get into the muffler of a saw then end up in the cylinder. It has made me reconsider removing the muffler screens. One was a ms361 that had gotten a piece of wood in the muffler when I pulled the saw over it seezed when I removed the muffler to check it out I was surprised to see the wood jammed between the exhaust port and piston, damaging the piston. The other was a ms461 that was in the back of a friend's pickup loaded with firewood that got rain water in it and was left to sit for a while when it was started later the crank bearings failed. I am getting ready to rebuild and port that saw now, so I would be interested in your take on a ms461 build. Something to be mindful of with mufflers and saws in pickup beds.
Gordy could you do a video when you are out falling next of how you would warm your saw up and the amount of time you'd let it idle for. Also the amount of time you'd leave in between bucking timber etc pretty well how you'd treat your saw in a general work day cheers mate.
Listen to your saw. The sound will change from a cold start. I tend to have it run 30 seconds to a minute from cold and shut it down and let it heat soak for a couple of minutes. After cutting or bucking, same. 30 seconds to a minute depending on outside temp.
I'm the guy that didnt warm up my new west coast 461 and heat seized it. It was a sharp, hungry chain on a brand new built saw. I was pressed for time to get 4 cords of softwood out and was cutting large rounds and ripping them as fast as I could. Long story short I knew better but it was cutting awesome and I had people waiting on me. The saw was toast, completely my fault. I had Gordy repair it and it gets treated properly, warm up and cool down. It has made me a lot of money and still runs strong. I never run my good falling saws in the wood yard just like I never take a firewood saw to cut timber. Great content and am anxiously awaiting more videos on when to replace wear parts, clutches, air filters, carbs etc. I am famous for running until fail then losing time getting another saw out of the truck. Most of my fails are pistons, broken skirts, hanging a ring in a port and breaking the top of piston or simply breaking a ring. Last one was a 660, broke the wrist pin out of piston and shoved it into oil tank. God bless and stay sharp.
Fire it up & hold it wide open. If you run enough good oil, it will never be a problem. Sound crazy, but I know of many oldtimers who run modern ported saws just like that.. strongest 046 I've ever run was treated just like that every morning. That saw would spin the clutch it had so much torque.
@@kennethbrewer2495 that happened from being lean, not improper usage.. Your breaking piston problems are also from lean conditions. Too much heat... I've cut tens of millions of Mbf with 92cc stihls & have only ever blown up one of them. Happened moments after grinding through the backcut after hitting something. Too much heat turned the exhaust skirt into pebbles.
Good info to have about seizures and cylinders. And looking into the exhaust port is DEFINITELY the easiest thing to start with because that’s what I do. From 2-6 bolts and there you are. Having a good light source is often the hardest thing to have “handy”, but experience is a great teacher with life 😊
You can get a little coast hx5 for like 9 dollars and it is the perfect pocket light. Small, light, bright, and good runtime. Any man (or woman for that matter) not carrying a knife and a torch in 2022 needs to treat themselves to the 10 dollar upgrade!!! im so used to using one now that if im still within a couple minutes of the house i'll turn around to go back and get it. Id rather leave my house without pants than without knife, flashlight, and coffee.
I bought a $5 Stihl AV 034 at a yard sale. Ran for about 15 minutes after I put new mixed fuel in it before it died. Brought it to my local saw shop because I couldn't get it running, he said the rubber boot wasn't on all the way leaning it out. Bummer my good deal didn't last long. Ended up buying a used Stihl 361 from him and will rebuild the 034 with a 036 top end for the learning experience.
great tip on letting the chainsaw warm up. I didn't know about the pins in the piston rings. I never heard that before. Great knowledge for equipment care.
That's the way to do it young fella. Not real long, to the point & some real good info. I'm an old man from Northern MI. Heat w /wood and running some old saws. Probably will be doing some investigating with the old 288xp, 365 special etc. Really good info about the cross hatching etc. Keep at it. Thanks.
Great Video Gordy!! Sharing your experience and knowledge with your ‘Followers’ is a great help to those of us trying to learn from other peoples’ experiences. It’s also very helpful to learn best method practices (warm up / cool down) in order to prevent premature expensive repairs and/or catastrophic damages.
Outstanding teaching! Is it just me, or does anyone else see tons of comments in chainsaw videos with guys screaming that the saw needs to be leaned out?
This is an amazing video Gordy! You explain things in a way that is so much easier to understand for us newbies. Please if you get the time make more of these instructional type videos. I appreciate all you do to take time out of your busy day to film the videos. Huge fan of everything you guys do and I will support you in any way I can. Have a Happy Thanksgiving Buddy.
Great info Gordy. I have my stock 461 that wears some WCS upgrades and the mods not only make the say run better it looks awesome too! I would like to see more on the 461 in the future as this piston tutorial was really helpful. I don’t think you ever have to worry about your UA-cam equality, it always good.
Dude I getting to log in my buffer strip area down here in Glendale Oregon I’m glad I caught onto your channel. Good educational video for a guy like me tryna do things myself
Some dam good info right there, from an old worn out MX guy your explanations are spot on. That over heated piston also looked like a 4 corner seize starting but powered though...and screwed the whole thing lol enjoyed.
A thought on warming up and heat in the pistons: The crown is actually the only part of the piston that expands a great deal. Above the rings. The crown is frequently a different diameter than the skirt to account for this. Take a 2stoke bike for example the crown is quite a bit smaller to account for this expansion.
Yeah Gordy, great video, start the saw then put on yer gear, save 5 Hundy the easy way. Have been enjoying all the technical / felling videos with you and Jake and Antone. Youre getting much better at videos, now you have a tripod 🤭
At 3:07 - looks like the piston of the F7. Had an air leak, rode home on the freeway. Lost power bad when I got off the freeway, then quit. No compression *at all.*
Awesome video Gordy!! I appreciate the information and knowledge that you shared. Extremely beneficial to those of us newer to the saw game. Keep up the content even if it doesn't turn out as great as you think it should.
Very educational, i would b interested in more videos like this. I have 2 461’s and get my 046 back from my uncle. Very low mileage. Should have not let it go
Hi Gordy Excellent information you are sharing and very well spoken. Love all your WCS products they certainly make a big improvement on all my Stihl saws especially on 500i keep up good 👍 work and stay safe.
Just the info I was looking for! I do have a few questions though... open to answers from anybody My 461 shows the kind of piston intake wear you show at 14:51, only at the very bottom of the skirt though. Otherwise the piston looks great (shiny, plenty of machining marks, no scoring). - What does this wear pattern mean for the life of my top end? - Is there anything I can do to minimize or prevent further wear? - What does this wear pattern say about how the saw was used in the past? - What does this wear pattern say about any other issues the saw might have? This 461 was manufactured in 2020 and has really low hours on it. I was surprised to see that horizontal discoloration on the bottom of the piston on the intake side but I guess its a relief to learn that this is typical of 461s
Gordi your awesome bro! Do u want to build my new 500i for me? I got all you offer for my huskys so I had to buy a stihl to deck out but I'd like you to port it for me. Let me know?
100%.. The horizontal machining lines on the piston skirts, are there to trap oil, for lubrication.. Once they are fully worn away and no longer visible... Your seriously risking excessive friction and wear on the cylinder too...
just found this video and for a person who didn't know much about pistons,cylinders I learned a lot. To many times guy's who know alot get to tecnical because they figure everyone knows the lingo, the part etc.Very good video- keep them coming.
Thanks for an informative video. Correct me if I'm wrong, but those types of ball hones are will not work on Nickesil plated cylinders. Secondly I've heard that when installing a new cast piston it is beneficial to heat them in an oven @450 degrees for 4 hrs an then quenching them in cold water. Have you ever done this or heard of this technique? Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
I've been running the original piston in my weed eater 30 years now, accidentally seized it and covered over the ring with aluminum, cleaned that up and put a used ring in from another trash-picked trimmer, new crank bearings and it's still going strong.
I put in a hwy pop-up piston, hwy titan nickel cylinder with caber rings in my 044, did break-in procedure per Donnie walker. I put in maybe 20 tanks through it at 40:1, kept a sharpen square chain. I dawged into a 30 inch log with 25” bar skip chain, halfway through the saw died and had no compression. Looked into the exhaust port, a piece of piston ring broke off about 1/4 on top and 18 inch off the bottom ring, scored the piston and cylinder. What is the cause of the failure, is it parts, dawd’n into the wood a little harder than normal.? I can’t figure it out, new cam shaft, piston, cylinder!
Gordy: props to Westcoast and you for your veterans recognition. I’ve got a question: I’ve got a vintage 380CD Husqvarna made circa 1977. I recently removed muffler, stripped, re-painted and did a small WCS muffler port mod. Piston looked fine but my question is how do I know my rings don’t need changing? I’ve got a set of Cambers waiting? Do I have to pull the cylinder or just run a compression test?
Ur a natural Gordy. Love the content. The more you do the easier it gets
Thank you Richard I am trying buddy 😁👍
Importance of warming up=watch the start of a 2 stroke dirt bike race. They don’t kick and go, they are blipping the throttle and letting it get right for a couple minutes before they launch. Excellent explanation of what’s causing some of the premature wear and what to do and when!
I would definitely be keen to see a when it's time to change them out series, air filters, bars/chains, AV mounts. Other stuff that just wears out with use
Excellent info brother. I’ve been preaching for years to anyone running 2 strokes about the importance of letting these engines warm up to avoid excessive p/c wear and cold seizures.
Keep up with the informative videos.
Well presented and explained, thanks mate
This is pure GOLD info. Your right nobody ever talks about how to tell a worn piston before it explodes and costs you a cylinder too. Thanks dude this one of the best videos out of the 100's I have watched. YES please keep it coming.
Thanks for taking the time to share this, very informative. More videos on saw maintenance and saw modifications would be greatly appreciated
Great video Gordy 👏
Really great stuff Gordy.... you're the man !!!! 😉😁
Great video Gordy. These kind of technical videos and how to videos are awesome content. Thankyou.
Awesome content. Thank for sharing your knowledge, we appreciate it.
Thank you so much for your help. I'm a rookie with Stihl, got bronze working on silver. So much to learn, this video helped tremendously. It was explained perfectly. Thank you
Break in is crucial in a saw , I live on the northeast and we deal with cold weather and it's a good thing to let your saw warm up
One of my favorite you tube guys is hotsaws101 he has amazing falling videos and really technical stuff and does really in depth shows of things. I really dig this stuff Gordy thanks man.
Great Job Gordy some real gold right here keep up the great work man!!!! Tube salad coming in clutch with the stand hopefully no agents show up to his house over it lol.
😂 yeah Gordy runs with a rough crowd for
Sure
Thanks Gordy, Great video! Not letting a saw warm up properly and cool down is a common issue I see folks do. Another thing to keep in mind especially with aftermarket pistons is to measure them and make sure they measure the proper tolerance for your cylinder before installing, nothing worse than replacing a piston only to find out it was too loose or tight and fails. Also check your ring gap and chamfer the edges of the piston. I can attest to the fact that with proper maintenance, good gas and oil, proper tuning, and replacing the piston and rings before failure one can get many years out of a oem cylinder. I own several with 25+ years on the original cylinders production logging. One thing I don't hear folks talk about that I have personally experienced is having debris get into the muffler of a saw then end up in the cylinder. It has made me reconsider removing the muffler screens. One was a ms361 that had gotten a piece of wood in the muffler when I pulled the saw over it seezed when I removed the muffler to check it out I was surprised to see the wood jammed between the exhaust port and piston, damaging the piston. The other was a ms461 that was in the back of a friend's pickup loaded with firewood that got rain water in it and was left to sit for a while when it was started later the crank bearings failed. I am getting ready to rebuild and port that saw now, so I would be interested in your take on a ms461 build. Something to be mindful of with mufflers and saws in pickup beds.
All great tips thanks for chiming in 👍
@@westcoastsaw1368 👍
What kind of oil do you use?
@@ryanjoyner6853 Bel-Ray H1-R
My order of operations is to start the saw first, let it warm up as I put my PPE on, then give it another minute or two before using it
Gordy could you do a video when you are out falling next of how you would warm your saw up and the amount of time you'd let it idle for. Also the amount of time you'd leave in between bucking timber etc pretty well how you'd treat your saw in a general work day cheers mate.
Listen to your saw. The sound will change from a cold start. I tend to have it run 30 seconds to a minute from cold and shut it down and let it heat soak for a couple of minutes.
After cutting or bucking, same. 30 seconds to a minute depending on outside temp.
I'm the guy that didnt warm up my new west coast 461 and heat seized it. It was a sharp, hungry chain on a brand new built saw. I was pressed for time to get 4 cords of softwood out and was cutting large rounds and ripping them as fast as I could. Long story short I knew better but it was cutting awesome and I had people waiting on me. The saw was toast, completely my fault. I had Gordy repair it and it gets treated properly, warm up and cool down. It has made me a lot of money and still runs strong. I never run my good falling saws in the wood yard just like I never take a firewood saw to cut timber. Great content and am anxiously awaiting more videos on when to replace wear parts, clutches, air filters, carbs etc. I am famous for running until fail then losing time getting another saw out of the truck. Most of my fails are pistons, broken skirts, hanging a ring in a port and breaking the top of piston or simply breaking a ring. Last one was a 660, broke the wrist pin out of piston and shoved it into oil tank. God bless and stay sharp.
Fire it up & hold it wide open. If you run enough good oil, it will never be a problem. Sound crazy, but I know of many oldtimers who run modern ported saws just like that.. strongest 046 I've ever run was treated just like that every morning. That saw would spin the clutch it had so much torque.
@@kennethbrewer2495 that happened from being lean, not improper usage.. Your breaking piston problems are also from lean conditions. Too much heat... I've cut tens of millions of Mbf with 92cc stihls & have only ever blown up one of them. Happened moments after grinding through the backcut after hitting something. Too much heat turned the exhaust skirt into pebbles.
Thank you for making this video Gordy. So much information to digest. Excellent explanation on machining marks on pistons. 😲😲
Thanks Gordy!!! So many nuggets of info
Thanks Gordy. Love your videos. I'd be interested on a how to change out a piston video in detail. Regards Glenn, Australia
Good info to have about seizures and cylinders. And looking into the exhaust port is DEFINITELY the easiest thing to start with because that’s what I do. From 2-6 bolts and there you are. Having a good light source is often the hardest thing to have “handy”, but experience is a great teacher with life 😊
You can get a little coast hx5 for like 9 dollars and it is the perfect pocket light. Small, light, bright, and good runtime.
Any man (or woman for that matter) not carrying a knife and a torch in 2022 needs to treat themselves to the 10 dollar upgrade!!! im so used to using one now that if im still within a couple minutes of the house i'll turn around to go back and get it. Id rather leave my house without pants than without knife, flashlight, and coffee.
I bought a $5 Stihl AV 034 at a yard sale. Ran for about 15 minutes after I put new mixed fuel in it before it died. Brought it to my local saw shop because I couldn't get it running, he said the rubber boot wasn't on all the way leaning it out. Bummer my good deal didn't last long. Ended up buying a used Stihl 361 from him and will rebuild the 034 with a 036 top end for the learning experience.
Great and informative video.
Thanks for taking time to do this.
The machining on the skirt is called knurling and it does serve as you said to decrease clearance and carry fuel oil mix.
Excellent tutorial! My first of ALL your videos I'll be watching! Thanks
great tip on letting the chainsaw warm up. I didn't know about the pins in the piston rings. I never heard that before. Great knowledge for equipment care.
Awesome video keep them coming! Waiting on the carburetor tuning video
Really appreciate your time and info .
This is a great video. Love looking at this stuff. This is like a coroner going over a body. Great video!
Good information
good tip to look inside to see if a piston needs to be replaced before it gets beyond repair!
Great stuff. Great personality as well. Thanks for responding to my emails👍🏼
That's the way to do it young fella. Not real long, to the point & some real good info. I'm an old man from Northern MI. Heat w /wood and running some old saws. Probably will be doing some investigating with the old 288xp, 365 special etc. Really good info about the cross hatching etc. Keep at it. Thanks.
Thanks, really liked the video you did with Jacob’s saw where you changed piston.Doesn’t look like a hard job.
Really interesting content. Thnx for taking time for the explanation and tutorial. Best wishes.
Great Video Gordy!! Sharing your experience and knowledge with your ‘Followers’ is a great help to those of us trying to learn from other peoples’ experiences. It’s also very helpful to learn best method practices (warm up / cool down) in order to prevent premature expensive repairs and/or catastrophic damages.
Excellent discussion Gordy, keep them coming.
Outstanding teaching! Is it just me, or does anyone else see tons of comments in chainsaw videos with guys screaming that the saw needs to be leaned out?
Great video for anyone new to running chainsaws.
This is an amazing video Gordy! You explain things in a way that is so much easier to understand for us newbies. Please if you get the time make more of these instructional type videos. I appreciate all you do to take time out of your busy day to film the videos. Huge fan of everything you guys do and I will support you in any way I can. Have a Happy Thanksgiving Buddy.
Great video Gordy I used to work on saws for friends and would find a lot of the same thing you talked about
Great video. Excellent information and easy to understand. Thanks!
Need to do one on changing over to your air filter
I don't know why this showed up in my feed bit I watched it and now I want to fix my busted old chainsaw🤷♂️
Great tutorial Gordy. Thank you!
Great video Gordy, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Time to tear apart a few saws. 🤔
Great info Gordy. I have my stock 461 that wears some WCS upgrades and the mods not only make the say run better it looks awesome too! I would like to see more on the 461 in the future as this piston tutorial was really helpful. I don’t think you ever have to worry about your UA-cam equality, it always good.
Cold seizure is a good one to bring up, not talked about often and definitely something to think about with the 661 and 461.
Dude I getting to log in my buffer strip area down here in Glendale Oregon I’m glad I caught onto your channel. Good educational video for a guy like me tryna do things myself
Nice job explaining pistons and jugs I appreciate it .and you do definitely know you saws ty. Corey. Goodrich. Ma.
Great video sharing
Great video, really enjoy watching. Thanks for sharing
Really good and informative video, hope you can keep them coming
Great vid man, thanks for taking the time to make it 👍🏻
Good video and info. Thank you
Great Video Gordy!! Always love to see your content! 👍🏻👍🏻
Some dam good info right there, from an old worn out MX guy your explanations are spot on. That over heated piston also looked like a 4 corner seize starting but powered though...and screwed the whole thing lol enjoyed.
Those 400s port up teal nice!
Great video, please keep them coming, thanks for sharing
Good technical break down
Thank you sir well done.
Loved this video.great content.keep em coming 👍👍👍
Great video!
Right on brother well said 💪💪👍🤙🪓
some of the best explnation of pistons and how to not score it ! Love it man keep it comin. I just started my own channel few weeks back
Very informative great video
Like the content videos from you.
Very good video. Great information. Thanks!
A thought on warming up and heat in the pistons:
The crown is actually the only part of the piston that expands a great deal. Above the rings.
The crown is frequently a different diameter than the skirt to account for this. Take a 2stoke bike for example the crown is quite a bit smaller to account for this expansion.
Yeah Gordy, great video, start the saw then put on yer gear, save 5 Hundy the easy way.
Have been enjoying all the technical / felling videos with you and Jake and Antone.
Youre getting much better at videos, now you have a tripod 🤭
More great information, thanks, Gordy.
At 3:07 - looks like the piston of the F7. Had an air leak, rode home on the freeway. Lost power bad when I got off the freeway, then quit. No compression *at all.*
Thanks for the information gordy
Good info, thanks. I've learned a lot from Donny too.
Thank you for this video gave me a lot of knowledge cuz I'm trying to learn
Awesome video Gordy!! I appreciate the information and knowledge that you shared. Extremely beneficial to those of us newer to the saw game. Keep up the content even if it doesn't turn out as great as you think it should.
Damn that’s a clean, organized shop!
Very educational, i would b interested in more videos like this. I have 2 461’s and get my 046 back from my uncle. Very low mileage. Should have not let it go
Great video really like the info great explanations
Great video! I like the technical videos!
excellent video
Hey Gordy
Greetings from Australia 🇦🇺 and thanks for a real informative video.
Cheers brp
Hi Gordy Excellent information you are sharing and very well spoken.
Love all your WCS products they certainly make a big improvement on all my Stihl saws especially on 500i keep up good 👍 work and stay safe.
Thats very interesting. Your cold siesure is common over here in Wisconsin. Especially during cold winter operations.
Just the info I was looking for! I do have a few questions though... open to answers from anybody
My 461 shows the kind of piston intake wear you show at 14:51, only at the very bottom of the skirt though. Otherwise the piston looks great (shiny, plenty of machining marks, no scoring).
- What does this wear pattern mean for the life of my top end?
- Is there anything I can do to minimize or prevent further wear?
- What does this wear pattern say about how the saw was used in the past?
- What does this wear pattern say about any other issues the saw might have?
This 461 was manufactured in 2020 and has really low hours on it. I was surprised to see that horizontal discoloration on the bottom of the piston on the intake side but I guess its a relief to learn that this is typical of 461s
Awesome imformative video Gordy glad to watch it!
Awesome video! Keep them coming.
When do we get a shop tour video??
Gordi your awesome bro! Do u want to build my new 500i for me? I got all you offer for my huskys so I had to buy a stihl to deck out but I'd like you to port it for me. Let me know?
Def like the tech videos. Thanks!!
100%.. The horizontal machining lines on the piston skirts, are there to trap oil, for lubrication..
Once they are fully worn away and no longer visible... Your seriously risking excessive friction and wear on the cylinder too...
just found this video and for a person who didn't know much about pistons,cylinders I learned a lot. To many times guy's who know alot get to tecnical because they figure everyone knows the lingo, the part etc.Very good video- keep them coming.
Thanks for an informative video. Correct me if I'm wrong, but those types of ball hones are will not work on Nickesil plated cylinders. Secondly I've heard that when installing a new cast piston it is beneficial to heat them in an oven @450 degrees for 4 hrs an then quenching them in cold water. Have you ever done this or heard of this technique? Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
I've been running the original piston in my weed eater 30 years now, accidentally seized it and covered over the ring with aluminum, cleaned that up and put a used ring in from another trash-picked trimmer, new crank bearings and it's still going strong.
Great video keep them coming
I put in a hwy pop-up piston, hwy titan nickel cylinder with caber rings in my 044, did break-in procedure per Donnie walker. I put in maybe 20 tanks through it at 40:1, kept a sharpen square chain. I dawged into a 30 inch log with 25” bar skip chain, halfway through the saw died and had no compression. Looked into the exhaust port, a piece of piston ring broke off about 1/4 on top and 18 inch off the bottom ring, scored the piston and cylinder. What is the cause of the failure, is it parts, dawd’n into the wood a little harder than normal.? I can’t figure it out, new cam shaft, piston, cylinder!
Nice. Thanks.
Nice. Your Failure Mode Analysis ; spot-on. Thanks. BTW, Subscribed. - N Idaho -
Gordy: props to Westcoast and you for your veterans recognition. I’ve got a question: I’ve got a vintage 380CD Husqvarna made circa 1977. I recently removed muffler, stripped, re-painted and did a small WCS muffler port mod. Piston looked fine but my question is how do I know my rings don’t need changing? I’ve got a set of Cambers waiting? Do I have to pull the cylinder or just run a compression test?