@@royboydanny1415 absolutely no need to use resistors on every led. 1000s of manufacturers all over the world use multiple leds with 1 resistor to match the supply current
@CarmineRC I get that now.... I tested the COB leds at 6v (2 x 3v in series) and to drop the current from 7.6v supply voltage to 6v, I need to put in a 47ohm resistor on the LK8W to help reduce current on the SFR-1 and hopefully it'll help the SFR-1 workload. It's using VERY old tech as there's no reverse current protection and it's comm9n positive like care from the 60s.... lol
Switching to WT-60s... hmmmm! 😅 Sorry about the mishap. Most of us have done it at least once. Especially me! Since then, I've always used 12v circuit breakers in all my vehicles. They're easy to find at auto parts stores, and far less annoying than fuses. She still looks beautiful!
Hi Teri, I have a question regarding the speaker you use in the 770 Scania. I would like to change the one in my 620 Scania, hoping to give me more room for the dash, seats and driver. Regards Mike of Bristol
@TeriWilde thanks for replying, the one with the Tamiya European mfc unit. But it takes up the whole inside roof space. I've got a r/h dashboard to go in also. Regards Mike
The one thing i saw i turn off fast switching in the settings I have done a few trucks never had this problem but then all off them have resistors with the lights
Your work lights seems to be the culprit, as well as the 12v leds. Try 6v leds with resistors or put the work beams directly on the receiver like I do I use this switch bought them off Amazon UK “RC Remote Controlled AUX on/Off Electronic Switch Relay for Car Truck Boat LED Light Drone (4A)” works great
Without the resistors you are causing too much current to be asked for from the sfr1 I did advise you this at the start of the build I have this truck with more LEDs than you I also have a cola truck with the main cab unit having around 300 LEDs all with a resister on each and I never get this issue As you are using LEDs in series they draw power and all want the same at the same time It’s too much So a regulator being able to draw 4amps might help But I again might cause the same issue The SFR is not desktop have a high current drain As you turn them on it spikes and wants “ALL THE POWER” the units safety system stops it
@@TeriWilde power requirements. It might draw more power for a split second to play that sound. Flicker the lights etc. example I wants 0.5amp to turn on a light but running it it’s 0.25amps More 0.5 (6 things needing that power) with another having 0.25am still it’s over the 3amp max supply it can give out The LEDs in series draws power. They all want the same power right from the off. One might get the full power it wants (the first) but the second isn’t so it tries and takes more power That causes a power drain and spike Turn your gas oven on to a temperature setting. It’s a high flame until heated. Same thing really. With each led having its own feed and resister for each one. It won’t want more for one in a line. They will all take the power required (I have 270 3mm white leds on one feed) but they have one power feed and each one has a connection to it All working and making the pretty flashing inline with the next line. 4 channels powering each set of lights Making my flashing cola lorry. If I want them all on constantly it needs 3.6amps I just haven’t bothered to add the little board to allow that I love how mine flashes and chases around the cab and wagon Going back to your system. Without seeing it I can’t tell you I’d do a few checks on it but the powering down is taking more power than the system is allowing it to it just needs that for a split second and it will cut to keep itself safe Might even happen if you power everything on then fire the starter up Might not again more than likely the sequence it does I run mine with 7.4v or 7.2v just remember to adjust the program on the sfr for it as it has different settings and parameters for cut offs etc All my LEDs are for a 14v supply tops So the resister makes them a little dimmer on 7v But I know I can happily go up to 12v and even 14v without damaging the LEDs But I also should get a longer life from them being set for 14v but running half that
that would be a solution, but I'm puzzled as to why I can have all the lights on when the engine is running, but as soon as the engine sounds shuts down, the lights trip out.
I have the same set up as you and the same lorry. I have fitted resistors to every LED having no problems at all.
@@royboydanny1415 absolutely no need to use resistors on every led. 1000s of manufacturers all over the world use multiple leds with 1 resistor to match the supply current
Im agreeing with resistors... and this has taught me something for when i get to fitting the COBs on mine.
BTW, LOVE how bright they are!
Here's my answer on a postcard....
Check the manual, find out the maximum wattage and amperage the lighting circuit can handle.
I just looked. Amperage cannot exceed 3A on any circuit.
1.5A on any single output...
@CarmineRC
I get that now.... I tested the COB leds at 6v (2 x 3v in series) and to drop the current from 7.6v supply voltage to 6v, I need to put in a 47ohm resistor on the LK8W to help reduce current on the SFR-1 and hopefully it'll help the SFR-1 workload.
It's using VERY old tech as there's no reverse current protection and it's comm9n positive like care from the 60s.... lol
Switching to WT-60s... hmmmm! 😅
Sorry about the mishap. Most of us have done it at least once. Especially me!
Since then, I've always used 12v circuit breakers in all my vehicles. They're easy to find at auto parts stores, and far less annoying than fuses.
She still looks beautiful!
You're showing admirable patience with "ACHTUNG"!
Hi Teri, I have a question regarding the speaker you use in the 770 Scania. I would like to change the one in my 620 Scania, hoping to give me more room for the dash, seats and driver. Regards Mike of Bristol
it's just a LCD TV speaker off eBay, they come in pairs and I just use one.
What speaker are you currently using?
@TeriWilde thanks for replying, the one with the Tamiya European mfc unit. But it takes up the whole inside roof space. I've got a r/h dashboard to go in also. Regards Mike
The one thing i saw i turn off fast switching in the settings
I have done a few trucks never had this problem but then all off them have resistors with the lights
Your work lights seems to be the culprit, as well as the 12v leds. Try 6v leds with resistors or put the work beams directly on the receiver like I do I use this switch bought them off Amazon UK “RC Remote Controlled AUX on/Off Electronic Switch Relay for Car Truck Boat LED Light Drone (4A)” works great
@RcNeil all the white COB leds are 3v and wired 2 in series for 6v.
@@TeriWilderemember the outputs on the SFR-1 cannot exceed 3A, seems like the entire lighting is exceeding 3A are the voltage regulator got damaged
Also, I have the English replacement for the talking warnings if you want them. Think we have spoken on Facebook as well?
I had to remove the emergency braking possible, on my sfr1, is it possible that there is a programming issue with this function?
No idea if there's an issue with emergency braking.
Without the resistors you are causing too much current to be asked for from the sfr1
I did advise you this at the start of the build
I have this truck with more LEDs than you
I also have a cola truck with the main cab unit having around 300 LEDs all with a resister on each and I never get this issue
As you are using LEDs in series they draw power and all want the same at the same time
It’s too much
So a regulator being able to draw 4amps might help
But I again might cause the same issue
The SFR is not desktop have a high current drain
As you turn them on it spikes and wants “ALL THE POWER” the units safety system stops it
But why do all the lights stay on and work ok when the engine is running, and then trip out when the engine turns off?
@@TeriWilde power requirements. It might draw more power for a split second to play that sound. Flicker the lights etc.
example I wants
0.5amp to turn on a light but running it it’s 0.25amps
More 0.5 (6 things needing that power) with another having 0.25am still it’s over the 3amp max supply it can give out
The LEDs in series draws power. They all want the same power right from the off.
One might get the full power it wants (the first) but the second isn’t so it tries and takes more power
That causes a power drain and spike
Turn your gas oven on to a temperature setting. It’s a high flame until heated. Same thing really.
With each led having its own feed and resister for each one. It won’t want more for one in a line. They will all take the power required (I have 270 3mm white leds on one feed) but they have one power feed and each one has a connection to it
All working and making the pretty flashing inline with the next line.
4 channels powering each set of lights
Making my flashing cola lorry.
If I want them all on constantly it needs 3.6amps
I just haven’t bothered to add the little board to allow that
I love how mine flashes and chases around the cab and wagon
Going back to your system. Without seeing it I can’t tell you
I’d do a few checks on it but the powering down is taking more power than the system is allowing it to it just needs that for a split second and it will cut to keep itself safe
Might even happen if you power everything on then fire the starter up
Might not again more than likely the sequence it does
I run mine with 7.4v or 7.2v just remember to adjust the program on the sfr for it as it has different settings and parameters for cut offs etc
All my LEDs are for a 14v supply tops
So the resister makes them a little dimmer on 7v
But I know I can happily go up to 12v and even 14v without damaging the LEDs
But I also should get a longer life from them being set for 14v but running half that
Hi, also try a fully charged new battery before you start stripping everything down
@@royboydanny1415 it was a fully charged battery. 🤔
Was that the battery you put on the wrong way round? It could be damaged.
Maybe you should have had a short 🍷instead of a beier 🍺
I'm beginning to think that myself.
You’re bending lights are working the wrong way round when you indicate left the bending light should go out on the left vice versa
@royboydanny1415 the bending lights come ON when turning, I haven't seen a setting that allows the opposite light go out if they're both on.
Simple solution: don't have the work lights on while ALL the driving lights are on...
that would be a solution, but I'm puzzled as to why I can have all the lights on when the engine is running, but as soon as the engine sounds shuts down, the lights trip out.