Entertaining video and very useful. As others have mentioned a list of the various greases you produce and a chart showing where you recommend each one is used would be very helpful. Thanks
Gefeliciteerd! Kwam toevallig net op deze video. Niet zozeer voor een wielersport of iets dergelijks. Maar in verband met vet in een RC auto. Snap nu wel dat vet niet zomaar vet is. :)
@@simpi0993 PPL is a great all-arounder, and not to say that PPL is a bad bearing grease but HPG-1 was designed more for bearing use. But if you live in a area where it rains often, the PPL would be better because since its thicker it is slightly more water resistant. The PPL is more for, lets say the seat post, you need some grease there, and the PPL would be best for it.
@@Eng586do NEVER use lubricants to insert a seat post! it needs friction - not lubrication. with grease on it, you'll need to exceed the max torque of the clamp bolt to hold the post fixed. this over-tightening however may damage the clamp, the post or even the frame tube.
@@faiobbochd Well... actually you can use some grease on a seatpost if the frame and seatpost are different metals like aluminum and the other is steel. They will eventually bond and ruin the frame. Of course a friction paste is better and for sure on carbon frames. But for metal on metal, I've used the PPL grease since the 1990s and the seatposts don't slide and none have been stuck.
Calvin is Ninja wrench! If you’re listening Park Tools, give this guy a raise! He is a a stellar technician and a great narrator/teacher. Perfect for this stuff - A++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++!
For the summer season I made a separate BB setup. I removed the inner seals of my bearings, but I kept the outer ones because of the dust, cleaned all the grease and ditched that plastic bushing/spacer between the cups. Then I drilled some holes on the back side of the cups, where the bearings sit. After that I filled up the bb shell with automatic transmission oil and BOOM - that thing just flies. It takes some additional maintenance, but if you ask me its totally worth it.
@@polochinchinlin9111 It works for 20-30 hours before you have to open it up to clean and refill it. Sometimes when Im lazy I just use a syringe to top it off trough the dropper hole in the seat tube. I have this setup for 3 summer seasons now and I still use the same bearings, so there isn’t any issues with it whatsoever.
I did your swing test after replacing bearings on my 1970s Fuji race bike using a premium calcium-complex soap grease with Teflon. I got > 30 swings. Something seemed wrong. Ah! I'd left the pedal on. Without the pedal I got 11 swings. Two questions: 1) is lithium or calcium grease better? 2) for this old bike are free or caged bearings better? Thanks!
WOW what a fun and informative video. QQ I purchased Park tool PPL-1 Greaase. I have always had trouble getting the grease out - too thick. So thick that even kneeling on the tube with my full weight is the only way to get grease out - Whats going on here?
Marine Grease is perfect for most parts that can just do push-out grease like most Shimano pedals SPD. Marine grease is extremely water resistant, practically impenetrable but a hassle to clean.
For a winter road bike, it's perfect. I'm always amazed how much remains and how clean the grease is when I service it, so the bearings must be well protected.
you missed to test oils: low, middle, high viscosity, or to put some oil into grease and test, i have problem with angle grinder grease: it is so stiff , it is all around of gearbox but not on teeth, so i mixed some oil into basic mineral calcium grease, to get some viscosity and it works
Anti seize is great for threaded bottom brackets, pressfits (such as ones found in headsets and bottom brackets) as well as bolts that are not common to adjust or remove. The stuff works great as a barrier and is essential when using anything titanium
There is a trick and work fantastic. You can use thick grease and ad few drops of oil and it will become hi performance and also stick in place for a long time...
You sure can use PPL-1 on thru axles and pedals as well. Greasing the bottom half of droppers on the exterior where it meets the frame is also good to go. It is not advised to use PPL-1 on the internals of the dropper though.
Aside from those two since those greases are not available on my local hardware stores, can you recommend me what is the suited grease all around for a road bike and mountain bike? my local hardware stores suggested me marine grease and hi-temp grease, which is better?
I also recall a video going over world cup race mechanic that spin out most of the grease before race runs to reduce drag. Replace bearings every race perhaps 🤔 totally worth it 🤣
I have a 12 year old tube of PPL-1. Wondering if it's still usable considering it's age. The grease still feels fine on the touch however unsure if there's any expiry on such product. Any advice is appreciated.
another aweseom video thanks guys! I have just come across a PPL-1 in my toolbox (unopened) have had it as a spare and forgotten about it. it has changed color to a sandy yellowy hue.... reckon that could still be used or shall i throw it (and the $$ out the window) ? please advise :O Many thanks! you guys rock!
How do I stop the head assembly on my Park Tool PCS-10 from sticking? it won't rotate freely unless I reef on it with a bike or metal tube. i tried WD 40 and grease and no luck. Also, the nut on the thread inside that assembly: should it be snug or allow a little play? Thank you!!
Am quite sad I didn’t win the WH-1 😦 They are not available to buy at all where I live in the UK, and not as far as I can tell available anywhere in Europe either... 😳
It can take a while to get products fully distributed, and the summer trade winds can of course slow shipments. The WH-1 should be in retailers there soon.
Floatingvoter Same here! Really want one of these. Think we’re going to have to be patient though. Available now in USA for $100 but $45 shipping to UK plus maybe import duty. Bike-Discount.de say they will have it 25 July for €136 but they charge a fair bit for shipping usually. Looks like it’ll be on my Christmas list then!
But.... Grease liquifies as it heats up so it would be best to know if the HPG out performs the regular grease after it has run for a while. Chances are it would but still Also the HPG would likely get closer to the no grease option once warmed up
I think that's a non issue with bicycles. The amount of power and speed is so low compared to motor sports so most bicycle greases can easily deal with any heat and friction.
Hi guys, it might be irrelevant to this video, but can I get some advice from you all, I tried using degreaser on my chains to remove stains and try scrubbing it off but there are still some stuck on it. I tried using soap to finish up my cleaning process and its still there, Any advice please? Thanks in advance:)
I would never do it: But I've seen a bike build video in wich he put ASC onto the crank spindle surface. Doesn't that increase the friction of the crank? What do you think about it?
disassemble/remove your e.g bottom brackets, hubs wipe it out with clean rags and put on new grease there's a tutorial on that just browse through their videos
Two tests that actually indicate the quality of grease are a brake test, and spalling thread test. A brake test has a turns a smooth round metal puck while engaging a mating metal shoe. Measure the imparted torque or power consumed by an electric motor. A battery operated drill would work if you measure the time to battery exhaustion, otherwise use an amp meter to measure power at a specific voltage. The brake shoe should have passive weights stacked or hung from it. A thread-spalling test turns a long piece of thread stock through a matching nut repeatedly until the threads spall. Take pics every 1,000 lengths, or measure imparted torque into the nut as you go. Keep a count until total failure and seizure. All grease will add a minute amount of drag, but that's to be expected. None of that indicates how well it is lubricating under high loads like a crank when ridden by a heavy rider, or friction in a wheel bearing. If you really want to know how well a grease performs in an application turn the bearing until failure and record the time or turn-count to failure. Electric motors make this fairly simple, but take a lot of time to get to failure. Unfortunately, this video is not helpful.
Hello , great channel, my seat post keep sliping and I find myself overtightening the screw on the clamp to keep the seat post in place , I heard that sag2 or asc1 by parktool will do the job but I don't have any , what should I do?and does regular grease good as well?
clean pipe and inner tube from any lube. insert the post clean and dry and check if the clamping is worn out. try wrapping the post with some aluminium foil to get closer to the thing
I fitted a new FSA threaded bottom bracket and a new set of cranks the other day. I cleaned everything and used ppl - 1as well as torque wrench to tighten everything up. After about 10/15 miles on it it started to creak loads. I dissemble , cleaned, greased and retorqued everything. Again after about an hour the creak restarted. Would using copper grease or anti seize stop this? Its driving me mad!!!!
Are you sure that the creak is coming from the threaded bottom bracket? The creak may be from the Interface where the spindle meets the crank arm or another location. How old is the crank? Anti Seize would be better here IMO but grease is just fine and should not creak unless under torqued. If under torqued then all bets are off. The torque on that should be right around 40Nm.
@@parktool The crank is brand new as well. I worked on the assumtion is may well not be the BB so removed the cranks from the spindle, cleaned and regreased them at the same time as doing the BB. Also did the pedals and the chainring bolts. Would putting to much grease on lead to more chance of a creak? I torqued to the middle of the manufactures suggested ranges.
Too much grease can and should be wiped away. Even if it is left behind and attracts a bit of dirt it is still preventing that dirt and grime from entering the bottom bracket to frame interface so its fine to use a generous portion. Try a different set of pedals too. just to eliminate that from possibilities.
I've just installed a brand new Shimano bb86 bottom bracket with the original grease on it and performed the swing test. The result was as bad as the anti seize in the video. Should I degrease the original grease and apply fresh grease?
Ok, so I should nawt, NAWT! put ASC-1 on dynamic surfaces, that is: surfaces that move against each other, but… would it be ok to put it on the whole length of a thru axle? In theory the axle shouldn’t rotate against the static part of the hub, so ASC-1 should be ok, wouldn’t it?… how about on the axle ends and the dropouts?… I’m tending to use this stuff more and more, to avoid noises and to create a protective and water repellent coating
depending on your location, you could try - apps/services to find other users tracks like strava, komoot, runtastic MTB - local MTB clubs, e.g. my university offers some (also to non-students) - maybe you can find a local facebook group or events - ask your local bike/ repair shop
HPG has a lower sheer force as well as a wider effective temperature range. This makes it a fast long lasting grease that can be used for many purposes. PPL is thicker with a higher sheer force and better water resistance. Making it a slightly more durable grease.
For sealed bearings, according to Hambini and Jon Cannings (GCN Tech), you should only put 1/3 of the volume of grease so you don't create drag inside the bearing with too much grease. The analogy I heard some one else say is that it's like walking through 6 inches of water versus waist-deep water; waist-deep being much more difficult because of the extra drag. Look at this video at the 10 minute mark for more detail: ua-cam.com/video/hRLbamNQa_0/v-deo.html
Depends on what you will be using the bearing for. If your goal is to go fas, then yes. If your goal is to go far in all weather then you may want to fill it a bit more. This acts as a reservoir too. When using a grease gun on anything you fill it till it is coming out and is completely full. That is on purpose. It will last longer and will help protect your bearings from the elements more effectively. Also when you completely remove the grease from a bearing you want to try to work grease into the nooks and crannies. There are different ways to achieve this as well. On my trailer wheels I take a hand full of grease and work the bearing into the grease laterally to push grease inline with the needles. Grease is fun stuff and plays a huge roll in modern society and can be used in many ways for many different reasons. Oh and there are many many different kinds.
and don't mix up those tubes! wish they looked the different the ASC and the PPL, only after the bearings sounded and felt like crap did I really question why park had changed the grease color. Great video guys.
Marine Grease is good on moving parts but anti seize never use it on moving parts, you should only use Anti seize on threaded application where it is weathered heavily like salt water. Anti seize vastly use on marine or Ships.
I'm curious about something. Do professional road cyclists compete with no grease in their front and rear hubs and BB? Since they ride for a sponsor, why would a professional cyclist care if he has to have those three components replaced after a competition? As you have shown, it would give a road cyclist an edge over long distances. Your thoughts are appreciated.
Some have raced like that but most do not. Some use a lighter weight grease or an oil but no one really runs dry except for some track cyclists running ceramics.
Say for example you have a special event, it's dry, 1hr to 2hr long, no dust etc etc how much power could you save by not greasing? Let's say a little oil for comparison? Remove the seals etc etc? How much power is saved?
Friction facts might have a more precise answer for a question like that as they are testing power numbers with different lubricants. But, In our opinion, not enough to be worth it.
If a ceramic speed BB or deraileur cage save 3W at 50 kmh and a waxed chain similar amounts, renewing bearings after every ride may be more cost effective, if not as easy! (Could be simplified if I had one of those cut out BB's though 😀)
The heat that can be seen here at the rotor could cause some of the lubricant to creep outward and up the spiders, and that is not a good situation. Stick to a thread-locker here.
Love your videos, but I make it very simple: I use motor oil blended with petrol. Let the petrol evaporat and the oil will stay in place. I'm not even take the bottom bracket apart, only squirt in some oil/ petrol blend in the gaps and the bracket is greased up. I do the same with the bearings on the wheels and also use the same blend on the chain. And I can tell you, I truly gliide away on my bicycle. But the question is: Does this "oiling" damage my bicycle in anyway?
@@parktool Thanks, good to know. Does that go for carbon as well as metal seatposts? I usually use a carbon compound paste for carbon seatposts carbon frames.
I have to agree with Michael Vila you just made things more confusing instead of making things perfectly clear, Do another video telling us what kind of grease goes where and why that would be a much better video, I have to use my deducting skills on "Game Of Throne" now i'm too tried to figure out I'M ON MY SECOND SEASON NOW trying to figure out who is who and why are they doing that kind of stuff don't know what is what" with this video, on your remake of this video i will be watching for it to come out.
Honestly that was the intent to go through and list off where things should go. Thought it would be pretty boring for the first go around so we went the testing route and hope it was fun to watch. Sometimes it takes years to learn how to fish.
Good stuff guy's. I headed out to remove the grease on my bottom bracket 😆
Tour de France riders hate this secret trick!
Entertaining video and very useful. As others have mentioned a list of the various greases you produce and a chart showing where you recommend each one is used would be very helpful. Thanks
YEAHHH, thank you for the WH-1!!! Can't wait to receive it
I was wondering how I get in touch with you guys?
Send us an email at video(at)parktool(dot)com and we'll get you sorted out!
Good job Carlo
Gefeliciteerd! Kwam toevallig net op deze video. Niet zozeer voor een wielersport of iets dergelijks. Maar in verband met vet in een RC auto. Snap nu wel dat vet niet zomaar vet is. :)
I was kinda hoping for some recommendation on when it is better to use HPG-1 and when PPL-1...
@Click Bait high performance grease for inside the bearing and all-rounder for the outside
@@simpi0993 PPL is a great all-arounder, and not to say that PPL is a bad bearing grease but HPG-1 was designed more for bearing use. But if you live in a area where it rains often, the PPL would be better because since its thicker it is slightly more water resistant. The PPL is more for, lets say the seat post, you need some grease there, and the PPL would be best for it.
@@Eng586do NEVER use lubricants to insert a seat post! it needs friction - not lubrication. with grease on it, you'll need to exceed the max torque of the clamp bolt to hold the post fixed. this over-tightening however may damage the clamp, the post or even the frame tube.
@@faiobbochd Well... actually you can use some grease on a seatpost if the frame and seatpost are different metals like aluminum and the other is steel. They will eventually bond and ruin the frame. Of course a friction paste is better and for sure on carbon frames. But for metal on metal, I've used the PPL grease since the 1990s and the seatposts don't slide and none have been stuck.
Calvin is Ninja wrench! If you’re listening Park Tools, give this guy a raise! He is a a stellar technician and a great narrator/teacher. Perfect for this stuff - A++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++!
Good on you guys. Love how accessible you make home repairs seem. Keep it up
These grease are not only for bikes only. I use the high performance ones on bearings like found on rotary ones, drills and such.
For the summer season I made a separate BB setup. I removed the inner seals of my bearings, but I kept the outer ones because of the dust, cleaned all the grease and ditched that plastic bushing/spacer between the cups. Then I drilled some holes on the back side of the cups, where the bearings sit. After that I filled up the bb shell with automatic transmission oil and BOOM - that thing just flies. It takes some additional maintenance, but if you ask me its totally worth it.
Love the innovation!
how many hours did it work?
@@polochinchinlin9111
It works for 20-30 hours before you have to open it up to clean and refill it. Sometimes when Im lazy I just use a syringe to top it off trough the dropper hole in the seat tube.
I have this setup for 3 summer seasons now and I still use the same bearings, so there isn’t any issues with it whatsoever.
It would nice to have a list of what all the oils and greases are for exactly.
SERIOUSLY!!!
You should’ve looked them up yourself !!
@@benjleath9406 That's a really stupid comment.
Do NAWT run any form of anti-seiz in your bearings.
DO NAWTT!! 😆
Oh hi Mark
No duh, i just use the all around one, i bellieve its called assembly compound
I did your swing test after replacing bearings on my 1970s Fuji race bike using a premium calcium-complex soap grease with Teflon. I got > 30 swings. Something seemed wrong. Ah! I'd left the pedal on. Without the pedal I got 11 swings. Two questions: 1) is lithium or calcium grease better? 2) for this old bike are free or caged bearings better? Thanks!
You guys crack me up... you're like two little boys playing with their toys :) SO much fun
Excellent demonstration.
Groundskeeper Willie: Have yeh got any grease?
Lunchlady Doris: Yes. Yes we do.
Groundskeeper Willie: THEN GREEESE ME UP WOMANNN!
ookie dookie
THERE'S NARY AN ANIMAL ON EARTH CAN OUTRUN A GREASED SCOTSMAN
Bacon grease! as it heats up it smells so good but then the dogs start chasing you so it becomes a hassle. DO Nawt do it!
hahahhahaahah good one
Also, bacon grease has salt in it which can cause corrosion.
One of The best bike channel on earth ! 👍👍
WARNING; do not be hypnotized by the non greased swinging crankarm. You may be compelled after viewing it to purchase every PARK TOOL made! 😂😂😂
WOW what a fun and informative video. QQ I purchased Park tool PPL-1 Greaase. I have always had trouble getting the grease out - too thick. So thick that even kneeling on the tube with my full weight is the only way to get grease out - Whats going on here?
I love how Calvin looks at his non-existent wrist watch.
YOU TWO are the Bomb!! FUNNY, Entertaining AND Very Informative Thank you!
From 0 up to 100% tests to explain..., those 2 bike lovers always play in great tutorials.
Marine Grease is perfect for most parts that can just do push-out grease like most Shimano pedals SPD. Marine grease is extremely water resistant, practically impenetrable but a hassle to clean.
For a winter road bike, it's perfect. I'm always amazed how much remains and how clean the grease is when I service it, so the bearings must be well protected.
I did a corrosion test and the poly lube 1000 beat the high-performance grease
it did not say anything about rust performance.
Can you please make a playlist of all the other chemicals used on a bicycle?
you missed to test oils: low, middle, high viscosity, or to put some oil into grease and test, i have problem with angle grinder grease: it is so stiff , it is all around of gearbox but not on teeth, so i mixed some oil into basic mineral calcium grease, to get some viscosity and it works
Good video guys, but not real clear on when and where to use each grease? Maybe it's just me.
Yes. It's great that you tell when not to use anti-seize, but please also tell when to use it.
Anti seize is great for threaded bottom brackets, pressfits (such as ones found in headsets and bottom brackets) as well as bolts that are not common to adjust or remove. The stuff works great as a barrier and is essential when using anything titanium
Can stop laughing from the first 40 seconds of the video, awesome content.
There is a trick and work fantastic. You can use thick grease and ad few drops of oil and it will become hi performance and also stick in place for a long time...
QUESTION!! Should i use the PPL-1 on a thru axel?? And can I use it on pedals aswell??
What about on dropper posts?? (The bottom half)
You sure can use PPL-1 on thru axles and pedals as well. Greasing the bottom half of droppers on the exterior where it meets the frame is also good to go. It is not advised to use PPL-1 on the internals of the dropper though.
@@parktool ok thank you! and just so you know, I was not intending on using it on the internals of the dropper post LOL
You guys are great!... and what about using CL-1 chain lube if you are going just for a race? that's what I would use! 👍🏻
That would be great!
Aside from those two since those greases are not available on my local hardware stores, can you recommend me what is the suited grease all around for a road bike and mountain bike? my local hardware stores suggested me marine grease and hi-temp grease, which is better?
Chris King said in an interview, on race day he didn't put any grease into the bearings.
I also recall a video going over world cup race mechanic that spin out most of the grease before race runs to reduce drag. Replace bearings every race perhaps 🤔 totally worth it 🤣
Guineson : i think they also do so because grease gets more and more fluid if its getting warmer because of the drag from spinning?
Excellent video.
I have a 12 year old tube of PPL-1. Wondering if it's still usable considering it's age. The grease still feels fine on the touch however unsure if there's any expiry on such product. Any advice is appreciated.
Totally fine to use that age of grease.
Man! I gotta check my bearings to see if it has grease
another aweseom video thanks guys!
I have just come across a PPL-1 in my toolbox (unopened) have had it as a spare and forgotten about it. it has changed color to a sandy yellowy hue.... reckon that could still be used or shall i throw it (and the $$ out the window) ? please advise :O Many thanks! you guys rock!
How do I stop the head assembly on my Park Tool PCS-10 from sticking? it won't rotate freely unless I reef on it with a bike or metal tube. i tried WD 40 and grease and no luck. Also, the nut on the thread inside that assembly: should it be snug or allow a little play?
Thank you!!
Am quite sad I didn’t win the WH-1 😦 They are not available to buy at all where I live in the UK, and not as far as I can tell available anywhere in Europe either... 😳
It can take a while to get products fully distributed, and the summer trade winds can of course slow shipments. The WH-1 should be in retailers there soon.
Floatingvoter Same here! Really want one of these. Think we’re going to have to be patient though. Available now in USA for $100 but $45 shipping to UK plus maybe import duty. Bike-Discount.de say they will have it 25 July for €136 but they charge a fair bit for shipping usually. Looks like it’ll be on my Christmas list then!
But....
Grease liquifies as it heats up so it would be best to know if the HPG out performs the regular grease after it has run for a while. Chances are it would but still
Also the HPG would likely get closer to the no grease option once warmed up
I think that's a non issue with bicycles. The amount of power and speed is so low compared to motor sports so most bicycle greases can easily deal with any heat and friction.
@@newttella1043 Yes, but how much grease do they forget to specify ...
ok, so after all that the HPG vs PPL, I still dont know the intended purpose or if there is a definite advantage between the 2 for bearings.
Hi guys, it might be irrelevant to this video, but can I get some advice from you all, I
tried using degreaser on my chains to remove stains and try scrubbing it off but there are still some stuck on it. I tried using soap to finish up my cleaning process and its still there, Any advice please?
Thanks in advance:)
What about mounting ninja token bottom bracket in carbon frame bike. What grease is best to use to be carbon friendly?
I would never do it: But I've seen a bike build video in wich he put ASC onto the crank spindle surface. Doesn't that increase the friction of the crank?
What do you think about it?
That intro was epic.
How do you clean the grease out your bike ?!? My fixie is so slow and gritty
disassemble/remove your e.g bottom brackets, hubs wipe it out with clean rags and put on new grease there's a tutorial on that just browse through their videos
Thanks I just wish there was a easy way taking apart a three piece
@@spawnyboii yeah it was a hassle especially if you don't have the right tools
Wow .... What a finding......
Two tests that actually indicate the quality of grease are a brake test, and spalling thread test.
A brake test has a turns a smooth round metal puck while engaging a mating metal shoe. Measure the imparted torque or power consumed by an electric motor. A battery operated drill would work if you measure the time to battery exhaustion, otherwise use an amp meter to measure power at a specific voltage. The brake shoe should have passive weights stacked or hung from it.
A thread-spalling test turns a long piece of thread stock through a matching nut repeatedly until the threads spall. Take pics every 1,000 lengths, or measure imparted torque into the nut as you go. Keep a count until total failure and seizure.
All grease will add a minute amount of drag, but that's to be expected. None of that indicates how well it is lubricating under high loads like a crank when ridden by a heavy rider, or friction in a wheel bearing.
If you really want to know how well a grease performs in an application turn the bearing until failure and record the time or turn-count to failure. Electric motors make this fairly simple, but take a lot of time to get to failure.
Unfortunately, this video is not helpful.
I love tech Tuesday man !!!
I put anti seize in my bearing races, seems fine... for now hahaha
Gotta lean them out and try again :(
If this actually happened, rip.
I will speak to my psycologist... Why do I enjoy so much watching video about grease?
Hello , great channel, my seat post keep sliping and I find myself overtightening the screw on the clamp to keep the seat post in place , I heard that sag2 or asc1 by parktool will do the job but I don't have any , what should I do?and does regular grease good as well?
clean pipe and inner tube from any lube. insert the post clean and dry and check if the clamping is worn out. try wrapping the post with some aluminium foil to get closer to the thing
Nice demo guys 👍🔧
QUESTION!! Can I use HPG on bolted through axels?
Yes you can!
I fitted a new FSA threaded bottom bracket and a new set of cranks the other day. I cleaned everything and used ppl - 1as well as torque wrench to tighten everything up. After about 10/15 miles on it it started to creak loads. I dissemble , cleaned, greased and retorqued everything. Again after about an hour the creak restarted. Would using copper grease or anti seize stop this? Its driving me mad!!!!
Are you sure that the creak is coming from the threaded bottom bracket? The creak may be from the Interface where the spindle meets the crank arm or another location. How old is the crank? Anti Seize would be better here IMO but grease is just fine and should not creak unless under torqued. If under torqued then all bets are off. The torque on that should be right around 40Nm.
@@parktool The crank is brand new as well. I worked on the assumtion is may well not be the BB so removed the cranks from the spindle, cleaned and regreased them at the same time as doing the BB. Also did the pedals and the chainring bolts. Would putting to much grease on lead to more chance of a creak? I torqued to the middle of the manufactures suggested ranges.
Too much grease can and should be wiped away. Even if it is left behind and attracts a bit of dirt it is still preventing that dirt and grime from entering the bottom bracket to frame interface so its fine to use a generous portion. Try a different set of pedals too. just to eliminate that from possibilities.
The hpg is worth it. Adheres much better to the bearings and provides better protection from water
better than shimano's grease?
@@polochinchinlin9111 not quite sure but I prefer hpg over Shimano still for high moisture environments
I've just installed a brand new Shimano bb86 bottom bracket with the original grease on it and performed the swing test. The result was as bad as the anti seize in the video. Should I degrease the original grease and apply fresh grease?
Do not remove and de grease. It will likely break-in. There can be some significant seal that helps keep the grease in place. Ride it awhile and see.
@@parktool Thank you!
Super video! Thanks a lot!!
I use water resistant grease,the blue stuff never had any problems with it.
Marine grease...it's good for trailer wheel bearings that go into fresh and salt water.
@@Lughnerson its not marine grease as such,just water resistant,never had any problems using it ☺☺
Ok, so I should nawt, NAWT! put ASC-1 on dynamic surfaces, that is: surfaces that move against each other, but… would it be ok to put it on the whole length of a thru axle? In theory the axle shouldn’t rotate against the static part of the hub, so ASC-1 should be ok, wouldn’t it?… how about on the axle ends and the dropouts?… I’m tending to use this stuff more and more, to avoid noises and to create a protective and water repellent coating
You guys are so good! Thanks. I love these videos.
(why can't regular school be so fun? )
I was expexted that you tell where use lithium based grease and where teflon based
is it better to use grease or vasaline
I am a new mountain biker but I have a hard time finding trails how can I find some
Google "mountain bike trails near me"
depending on your location, you could try
- apps/services to find other users tracks like strava, komoot, runtastic MTB
- local MTB clubs, e.g. my university offers some (also to non-students)
- maybe you can find a local facebook group or events
- ask your local bike/ repair shop
einHOCHaufWISEGUYS thank you so much for telling me this
The Trailforks as well as the Singletracks app also work well, I have discovered trail systems within a few hours drive of me using those.
mtbproject - they have an app too.
Hey Calvin and Truman I got 65.
Would like to know what the difference is between hpg and ppl.
HPG has a lower sheer force as well as a wider effective temperature range. This makes it a fast long lasting grease that can be used for many purposes. PPL is thicker with a higher sheer force and better water resistance. Making it a slightly more durable grease.
Très intéressant . Merci beaucoup ! ) 👍
you could put to the test Park Tool VS Shimano VS Motorex? it would be great
For sealed bearings, according to Hambini and Jon Cannings (GCN Tech), you should only put 1/3 of the volume of grease so you don't create drag inside the bearing with too much grease. The analogy I heard some one else say is that it's like walking through 6 inches of water versus waist-deep water; waist-deep being much more difficult because of the extra drag. Look at this video at the 10 minute mark for more detail: ua-cam.com/video/hRLbamNQa_0/v-deo.html
Depends on what you will be using the bearing for. If your goal is to go fas, then yes. If your goal is to go far in all weather then you may want to fill it a bit more. This acts as a reservoir too. When using a grease gun on anything you fill it till it is coming out and is completely full. That is on purpose. It will last longer and will help protect your bearings from the elements more effectively. Also when you completely remove the grease from a bearing you want to try to work grease into the nooks and crannies. There are different ways to achieve this as well. On my trailer wheels I take a hand full of grease and work the bearing into the grease laterally to push grease inline with the needles. Grease is fun stuff and plays a huge roll in modern society and can be used in many ways for many different reasons. Oh and there are many many different kinds.
@@parktoolnot body wishing to ride all full rain weather.
Where Star Lord hangs on weekends...
Another great informative and entertaining video
and don't mix up those tubes! wish they looked the different the ASC and the PPL, only after the bearings sounded and felt like crap did I really question why park had changed the grease color. Great video guys.
Ooh, that’s a bummer. For next time: the color at the top of the tube denotes the type of compound. Green is PPL, silver is ASC.
so for cleat bolts onto shoes, you suggest the asc over the ppl-1?
Yes, the ASC-1 will provide protection longer in a thread.
What would be a good grease for a bmx freecoaster hub ? 🤔🚲💨
THANK YOU!
What about PPL-1 vs HPG-1 for water resistance?
How and where use copper compound paste?
what an elegant intro!!
You guys almost invented perpetuum mobile with this no grease trick 👍
I use horse meat grease for all my bike components , since my bike is a horse
Great video ❤️
Today on this old grease
Marine Grease is good on moving parts but anti seize never use it on moving parts, you should only use Anti seize on threaded application where it is weathered heavily like salt water. Anti seize vastly use on marine or Ships.
Try a Hambini bearings
I'm curious about something. Do professional road cyclists compete with no grease in their front and rear hubs and BB? Since they ride for a sponsor, why would a professional cyclist care if he has to have those three components replaced after a competition? As you have shown, it would give a road cyclist an edge over long distances. Your thoughts are appreciated.
Some have raced like that but most do not. Some use a lighter weight grease or an oil but no one really runs dry except for some track cyclists running ceramics.
It's like watching bad porn, horrible acting, but funny. Nice vid guys!
Seriously?! Your comment is insulting!!!
Marshall David WahlstromHelgren sense of humor - google it.
@@AltitudeAerials To be fair tho it is kind of insulting.
CommaCam thank you!
Say for example you have a special event, it's dry, 1hr to 2hr long, no dust etc etc how much power could you save by not greasing? Let's say a little oil for comparison? Remove the seals etc etc? How much power is saved?
Friction facts might have a more precise answer for a question like that as they are testing power numbers with different lubricants. But, In our opinion, not enough to be worth it.
Thanks guys!
If a ceramic speed BB or deraileur cage save 3W at 50 kmh and a waxed chain similar amounts, renewing bearings after every ride may be more cost effective, if not as easy! (Could be simplified if I had one of those cut out BB's though 😀)
That's just marine grease! come on man
This video is soo good! jajajajajaja thank you guys.
Can i use the ppl-1 parktool
grease for my rear shock Rockshox Monarch RT3??
Contact Rockshox to be sure of what will work for your shock. Often a silicone grease is required for the seals and wipers in suspension.
Can i apply PP L1 when installing mtb pedals?
PPL-1 loves the MTB pedal threads.
What about anti seize in rotor bolts?
The heat that can be seen here at the rotor could cause some of the lubricant to creep outward and up the spiders, and that is not a good situation. Stick to a thread-locker here.
Love your videos, but I make it very simple:
I use motor oil blended with petrol.
Let the petrol evaporat and the oil will stay in place.
I'm not even take the bottom bracket apart, only squirt in some oil/ petrol blend in the gaps and the bracket is greased up.
I do the same with the bearings on the wheels and also use the same blend on the chain.
And I can tell you, I truly gliide away on my bicycle.
But the question is:
Does this "oiling" damage my bicycle in anyway?
Hey Calvin, are you a re incarnated version of Frank Zappa?, bet I'm not the first person to ask this.
So on seat post is safe to use Anti Seize grease?
It is safe to use ASC-1 on seatposts.
@@parktool Thanks, good to know. Does that go for carbon as well as metal seatposts? I usually use a carbon compound paste for carbon seatposts carbon frames.
@@polthomaskeeley7860 "For use on steel, aluminum, and titanium" it says on the ASC-1 tube
Good vid
Is ASC-1 new?
It is not. Has been in the lineup quite a few years. its a great product for certain applications.
@@parktool what's your opinion on this on the back of brake pads? In the motor industry it is generally heat resistant and reduces noise.
I have to agree with Michael Vila you just made things more confusing instead of making things perfectly clear, Do another video telling us what kind of grease goes where and why that would be a much better video, I have to use my deducting skills on "Game Of Throne" now i'm too tried to figure out I'M ON MY SECOND SEASON NOW trying to figure out who is who and why are they doing that kind of stuff don't know what is what" with this video, on your remake of this video i will be watching for it to come out.
Honestly that was the intent to go through and list off where things should go. Thought it would be pretty boring for the first go around so we went the testing route and hope it was fun to watch. Sometimes it takes years to learn how to fish.
Nice watch lines Truman
The tan line game is strong this season.
hahaha, i like this guys
108 swings on the swing test with no grease.