Dede--A great suggestion; most of us wouldn't have thought to do that. It needs to be a sacrificial washer, however, one that you don't care about destroying in the process. I was going to suggest putting down several layers of duct tape to protect the head surface, but your idea is much better. A good plan when you don't have an extractor set (most DIYers don't).
A miracle and disaster for me. I have an older Moffat oven and by miracle was able to find a place in Toronto that actually had the baker element...exact match. (we all know the frustration of ...obsolete, parts no longer available toss it and buy a replacement) So I was absolutely thrilled. The disaster...I checked UA-cam for how to remove and replace and completely understood. BUT the screw was fused to the back oven wall. I hit with hammer, tried chisel tap, the square was rounded by the bit. I bought easy out extractor set ( first one and drilled the hole (yes reverse for both ends but wouldn't budge the screws). I bought two more sets Ryobi. They removed one screw, but not the second. Then...now...the head snapped off. It is one inch long, so searching techniques again. Trouble is it is horizontal on back wall of oven a few inches from the oven floor....metal not wood and flush with the metal wall. The actual oven wall is not thick at all, but the screw is an inch. I took off the back oven panel, unscrewed the two screws which connect the wires, removed the old baker element. It broke almost flush with the wall surface, but from the back, sticks out just under an inch. Since it had only a short distance to thread through the wall to the back in my mind I thought on the back, turn the screw left which would be like continuing to tighten from the other side. It only had a few turns...and bingo, it came out. How frustrating but what a thrill when it is over, and your roast chicken and potatoes and wafting through the house.
rob--Just wondered: When the cut the first slot, did you then use a screwdriver with a grip hex just below the handle? You didn't mention anything about it, and the screwdriver looked old enough that it probably didn't. I can't say that it would have made a difference, but sometimes a little extra downforce in conjunction with using a combination wrench on the screwdriver hex can make it happen. It appeared you were unable to grind a deep enough slot in the bolt to work with, so it might not have made a difference this time. Just something to consider next time. An issue when drilling a hole for an extractor is that the person doesn't drill it deep enough for the extractor to get a good grip. In other words, it's too shallow for the extractor to make solid contact to be able to twist the bolt out (same as the slot on your first attempt). If anything, the extractor seems to just spin around when it isn't in deep enough, as the majority of them work on the wedge principle. It didn't look like the GraBit was going to work at first, but you kept at it and it caught, backing the bolt out. That indeed was a happy day.
The extractor used was a #1 GraBit bit (usually sold in a set of four, but you may be able to buy the bits individually on Amazon). It was powered by a standard electric drill or a cordless drill. The earlier power tool he was using to cut slots was a Dremel tool with a cutting disc. That tool works better when you have a stub sitting above the surface; as it was, the broken bolt was almost level with the surface, so he couldn't cut the slot as deep as he needed to. Just remember to work slowly and carefully; rushing the job and using too much power during the removal stage can mess things up worse.
Fucking Ford Service here in PH the mechanic broke the head of the bolt and tricked me by glueing the head with some fucking super glue in it! Just found out bec of some superglue residues left on top of the broken bolt.
Thanks for your video-I have a small bolt with its head sheared off stuck in its threaded hole below a recessed counter sunk hole. See this image for reference.. imgur.com/gallery/Vyhw45F it's a delicate situation on my electric skateboard..I need to remove this bolt asap without damaging the thread of the hole the bolt is in so that after extraction a new bolt can be screwed in again..I have a damaged screw extractor bit set (drill in reverse a hole in the end of the bolt with one end of the bit and then extract afterwards with the other end of the bit also with the drill in reverse).. How can I prevent the screw extractor drill bit from slipping/damaging/stripping the bolt hole thread and ensuring it stays centered? Use a hand center punch to make an indentation somehow in the end of the bolt to keep the extractor drill bit in the center or any other tools you suggest? I greatly appreciate your feedback asap on how you suggest I do this successfully as I can't afford to damage the bolt hole's thread but can't delay sorting this out much longer.. Thanks again! 🙏
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
If you don't want to chew up your cylinder head IF using the cross-cut method, put down a washer over the bolt. That will protect the cylinder.
great tip!
Dede--A great suggestion; most of us wouldn't have thought to do that. It needs to be a sacrificial washer, however, one that you don't care about destroying in the process. I was going to suggest putting down several layers of duct tape to protect the head surface, but your idea is much better. A good plan when you don't have an extractor set (most DIYers don't).
Great job
This didn't really help with what I needed to know but I have to say I'm so glad I learned that trick.
You need to turn your sound up
it works perfect
don't give up! It worked for me.
A miracle and disaster for me. I have an older Moffat oven and by miracle was able to find a place in Toronto that actually had the baker element...exact match. (we all know the frustration of ...obsolete, parts no longer available toss it and buy a replacement) So I was absolutely thrilled. The disaster...I checked UA-cam for how to remove and replace and completely understood. BUT the screw was fused to the back oven wall. I hit with hammer, tried chisel tap, the square was rounded by the bit. I bought easy out extractor set ( first one and drilled the hole (yes reverse for both ends but wouldn't budge the screws). I bought two more sets Ryobi. They removed one screw, but not the second. Then...now...the head snapped off. It is one inch long, so searching techniques again. Trouble is it is horizontal on back wall of oven a few inches from the oven floor....metal not wood and flush with the metal wall. The actual oven wall is not thick at all, but the screw is an inch. I took off the back oven panel, unscrewed the two screws which connect the wires, removed the old baker element. It broke almost flush with the wall surface, but from the back, sticks out just under an inch. Since it had only a short distance to thread through the wall to the back in my mind I thought on the back, turn the screw left which would be like continuing to tighten from the other side. It only had a few turns...and bingo, it came out. How frustrating but what a thrill when it is over, and your roast chicken and potatoes and wafting through the house.
So, it sounds like you got it after all? Congrats!!! Vintage stuff is usually cooler than the stuff we use now... unless it's a drone or a phone....
A hand held impact screw driver might have worked better than just a screwdriver
rob--Just wondered: When the cut the first slot, did you then use a screwdriver with a grip hex just below the handle? You didn't mention anything about it, and the screwdriver looked old enough that it probably didn't. I can't say that it would have made a difference, but sometimes a little extra downforce in conjunction with using a combination wrench on the screwdriver hex can make it happen. It appeared you were unable to grind a deep enough slot in the bolt to work with, so it might not have made a difference this time. Just something to consider next time. An issue when drilling a hole for an extractor is that the person doesn't drill it deep enough for the extractor to get a good grip. In other words, it's too shallow for the extractor to make solid contact to be able to twist the bolt out (same as the slot on your first attempt). If anything, the extractor seems to just spin around when it isn't in deep enough, as the majority of them work on the wedge principle. It didn't look like the GraBit was going to work at first, but you kept at it and it caught, backing the bolt out. That indeed was a happy day.
SteveR I had no option but success. Thanks for the tips.
Give casting little bit heat then screw it out
Sounds like a good trick - Thanks for sharing!
who do not love the scew extractors
На таких оборотах применять экструдер нельзя категорически а сверлить надо по старинке сверлом
Good job
Muito bom trabalho!!
Can u say that name of tool and machine
The extractor used was a #1 GraBit bit (usually sold in a set of four, but you may be able to buy the bits individually on Amazon). It was powered by a standard electric drill or a cordless drill. The earlier power tool he was using to cut slots was a Dremel tool with a cutting disc. That tool works better when you have a stub sitting above the surface; as it was, the broken bolt was almost level with the surface, so he couldn't cut the slot as deep as he needed to. Just remember to work slowly and carefully; rushing the job and using too much power during the removal stage can mess things up worse.
Fucking Ford Service here in PH the mechanic broke the head of the bolt and tricked me by glueing the head with some fucking super glue in it! Just found out bec of some superglue residues left on top of the broken bolt.
uh... yeah. how did that work out?
robdude1969 I just left it out that way :(
thanks
Good Luck!
There might have been useful information if I could have heard him.
try again with your sound turned on.
good tools
Thanks for your video-I have a small bolt with its head sheared off stuck in its threaded hole below a recessed counter sunk hole. See this image for reference.. imgur.com/gallery/Vyhw45F it's a delicate situation on my electric skateboard..I need to remove this bolt asap without damaging the thread of the hole the bolt is in so that after extraction a new bolt can be screwed in again..I have a damaged screw extractor bit set (drill in reverse a hole in the end of the bolt with one end of the bit and then extract afterwards with the other end of the bit also with the drill in reverse).. How can I prevent the screw extractor drill bit from slipping/damaging/stripping the bolt hole thread and ensuring it stays centered? Use a hand center punch to make an indentation somehow in the end of the bolt to keep the extractor drill bit in the center or any other tools you suggest? I greatly appreciate your feedback asap on how you suggest I do this successfully as I can't afford to damage the bolt hole's thread but can't delay sorting this out much longer.. Thanks again! 🙏
This is fantasy. Bolt head broke because bolt is frozen but flat screw driver will pull thing out. It never happens in human history.
I agree
I no a screwdriver lol
Use tape not paper.
good tip!
use hammer + nail so ez
good Job ;)
you lucky bastard.
i tried this i got 2 broken screws on the head where the exhaust manifold screws on. THE EXTRACTOR BROKE WHEN TRiYNG TO UNSCREW IT
oh man! Bummer... Did you fix it?
@@robdude1969 no i will give it to someone who knows this stuff ive given up CANT GET THEM OUT myself
You can take out by East out
👍🛠️
thanks for watching! Hope I helped.
Karo pendel kang cepet
fake
Paja You are funny. But thanks for your opinion. 🤪