My Rohloff (non-electronic) is on its 4th frame and has done roughly 80-90,000 miles. In that time it's never needed a repair and just gets the oil changed every 6 months to 1 year. I wouldn't stress too much over the need to send off the bike or at least the wheel if it needs repair - I think you'd be fairly unlucky to ever be in the position that you need to do that. But now I've got one of these R&M Delite GT's due next week so my old Rohloff will be finding itself a new owner, who, with any luck will get another 80-90,000 miles without issue. I've never been too careful about shifting under load - it's not best practice, but it's never caused any issue on my bike even when I used it with a 750W eBike motor. In my experience the gear hub is seriously over-engineered and designed to take a lot of abuse.
thank you for very useful video. I am desperate to get away from the derailleur system so This R&M with Rohloff oR the upcoming Revonte One system which is due out by end of 2021 (Hopefully).. Keep us updated on your test.
This is a great video to inform my next bike but it's not technical MTB trail riding, where I often need to change gears two or three at a time up and down as quickly as possible, especially when I don't know the terrain. I've never seen a Rohloff at a trail centre but looks perfect for anything else, especially for comfort. This is the grand tourer (Range Rover) of fireroads, forest paths and rough country lanes.
“Ive never seen a Rohloff at a trail centre”? This will help you understand how the Rohloff can perform in the real mountain biking world. Better than a derailleur 🙂. ua-cam.com/video/oUEoJfbtLwk/v-deo.html
@@FamilymoirGoogleAccount that is not very technical trail riding in the video but I get it that you easily get the momentum over obstacles with the motor. Totally wrecks the handing coming down hill though. It's a different ride but without some 'flickability' and a lower price it is going to remain niche.
@@MR-sf7ox agree on the price, but that won’t come down as it’s a high-quality product that will last for many many years and some have done over 300,000kms on their Rohloffs. The main filming was done on a blue trail, nice flowy single track with a few 0.5m drops and jumps, and some serious g-outs - nothing too demanding for a hood mtb’er. However, have a look at the 13:00 minute mark with Nikko riding… around 13:10-13:15 is a black trail which is technical, with 1-1.5m (4-5ft) plus drops, gap and other technical trail features… it may not look it on the video, but very steep and technical in places. The guy riding (Nikko) just won a local regional Enduro series with the Rohloff, with proper technical and demanding trails at each of the 5-6 location rounds. Typically we ride quicker on any trail than most - the Rohloff does not slow you down…. quite the opposite, it provides an advantage in quicker shifting. I wouldn’t agree it is a niche product, but it is certainly expensive and not for everyone…. same as a $5000 mtb and a $20,000 mtb. Flickability…. is certainly less on an eMtb compared to a normal mtb, but a Rohloff fitted eMtb is just as flickable. In the end it is an expensive upgrade, but there’s plenty of people who have done it and many more want to. I’m doing another 4 eMtb conversions this week. Like many upgrades, it is a personal choice.
Totally agree with your advice to disable the auto downshift. It is so easy to select any gear when stationary. My only problem is the gear change switch. Which is not instinctive when one is under stress. Am experimenting with positioning so hope I will find an acceptable position. So far bike has been excellent.
Hi, my Delite Mountain Rohloff is about 27 Kg (single battery) and my Superdelite GT Vario is about 37 Kg (dual battery) with the front rack option. Cheers!
Hello again ! The electronic shifting of the gear takes 0,2 s. I have received my Delite GT Rohloff. That’s an amazing piece of machinery. I wish I wouldn’t have my rear tire punctured. Changing the inner tube seems to be an issue with the Rohlhoff. What I read in the maintenance manual is not so obvious !
Hello Philippe, the e-shifting takes a fixed amount of time and when shifting several gears in quick sequence it's impossible to speed it up, unlike a manual system which allows quick-shifting of up to three gears at once. The e-shifting takes some time to get used to and some anticipation when quickly transitioning from downhill to uphill. Puncturing the rear tire with the Rohloff is a day-stopper if you don't have some kind of spray with gel/foam in your backpack or a good tubeless preparation or both :-)
Hello, it’s a long time I haven’t heard from you. I hope you are doing well. I sold my Delite GT Rohloff to change size. I used to have a size 51 but in the long run it appeared to be too large for me. I am hesitating between a super Delite HS with the vario and a Delite with the Rohloff for practically the same amount of money. I think that the dual battery is more relevant for the HS version. It can be discussed. Because you have practiced both the vario and Rohloff, for which system would you go if you had to make a choice ?
I have a nearly ten years old bike (Fahrrad Manufaktur) with non eletronic Rohloff, and a new R&M Homage with Rohloff. In 2019, I had some trouble with the Fahrrad Manufaktur, not involving the Rohloff hub; but during repair, the shop mechanic detect a potential looseness problem with the Rohloff (the hub was functional and I detected no problem at all): rear wheel was sent to Rohloff factory, the hub has been repaired, and send back to the shop... totally free of charge. About the electronic Rohloff, I am not very keen of the shifter; instead of two (too small and not very precise) gummy buttons, they should have used a small trigger to be moved up or down to shift gears. Important: like other gear hubs, Rohloff hab has a run-in period; drag is significantly reduced after around 1000km.
Hi Ruirodtube! Do you recall your average speed for this range test please? Also, do you have any idea how much power you were supplying through the pedals? I ask because I’m considering a dual battery R&M for touring. With love, Ken
I'm becoming more and more a fan of the R&M bikes. I see you have the superdelite with enviolo and the delite mountain with rohloff but I get the impression you were not happy with the rohloff for off road use. I'm thinking of the superdelite with rohloff. I will mostly ride the piste cyclable in Luxembourg and from time to time try the VTT trails or off road around Mullerthal. Now you tried both systems, do you have any thoughts on this combination? Maybe see you on PC4 or PC1 coming through Ernster some time...
Hi Eco Worrier, R&M bikes are excellent. Superdelite with Rohloff is a great combination. The Rohloff isn't the best gearbox for rapid gear changes required for Mountainbike rides where you transition from steep downhills to steep uphills like we have in Luxembourg. It does the job, but slower. However, it works great for bikepaths and smooth off road. It has a great gear range and you won't have to worry about gear/chain maintenance ever again! Cheers!
Thanks for the review. But there's something that you said that doesn't add up; as far as I've heard ,the integration of the Rohloff in the Bosh system allows the motor to automatically reduce torque for a bit when you shift gears. So what you've said about "not shifting under load" don't think it's necessary . Maybe ask this question to R&M and see what they say.
Another quick question. I like to ride fast on the flat paths and downhill - say 30 to 35 kmh. I will get no motor assist at this speed but it will be good exercise. I guess that will save the battery for the hills and let me turbo up them. Will it work like that or am I mistaken? Also, how is the transition above 25kmh with the rohloff and the gates? A sudden loading on the legs or smoother when the motor drops out?
Hi Eco Worrier, Sorry about the late reply but I didn't see this question earlier. Yes, when you pedal above 25-26 km/h the motor doesn't assist you which saves the battery for uphills. The transition to leg power only is very smooth/gradual. Between the speed of 25 and 26 km/h it gradually reduces the assistance. You can barely feel the transition with the new Bosch motors. Cheers!
Well you persuaded me to buy a Delight mountain Rohloff and I await delivery at end of October ... Do you have any more comments now you have ridden yours for several months? and is there anything to check upon delivery? Happy pedaling
Hi Old Bean, I’m happy for you. It’s a good bike. When you receive it please check the handlebar full travel stops. They prevent the fork hitting the frame when fully twisted on both sides. Mine was not well adjusted - it protected one side but not the other. I advise you to ask the shop to disable the automatic downshifting feature (Kiosk). This feature automatically downshifts to 5th gear when it senses the bike stopped. If you stall and have your foot on a pedal the Rohloff will grind and crack while down shifting. 😖 Buy a couple of small mudguards, especially one for the back. This will prevent most of the mud from getting into the rear suspension area. I like clipless pedals, so I bought a pair to replace the originals. However, the original pedals are wide, metallic and have studs, so you could give them a try if you’re not using clips. Buy a couple of sprays with gel to re-inflate the tires. Especially the rear tire, which is impossible to field-repair due to the belt tensioner. If you have a puncture use the spray. I hope this helps. I rode 1.300 kms on my bike already so I’m thinking about filming a new video to talk about the experiences I had with it.
@@ruirodtube thank you for the advice ..will deal with the points you mentioned .....dealer agreed to fix me up with “tubeless” which I have used for years. Thanks. And have fun ...look forward to your next video
To educate and better understand, the Rohloff E-14 system communicates with the motor to drop the motor power during a shift. There are limitations however: The E-14 system uses the crank sensor to calculate when the cranks are vertical so the human pedal power is at a minimum during the shift. If the rider dramatically changes their riding cadence shortly before the shift though, then this calculation won't be as accurate and the power will be back on before the shift process has been completed. The human power input level cannot be altered by the software. Although the shift process is planned for when the cranks are vertical, some riders have a very consistent cadence and maintain power even at the vertical crank dead-point. When this happens, the power will exceed that required to perform a proper smooth shift. With the Rohloff, it is advisable to always drop power during a shift. The Rohloff E-14 system is fast for electric shifting...it is however, still slower than a mechanically shifted unit as far more has to happen to complete the shift.
After all the things that you mention that can go on with the Rohloff and all the anxiety associated, I am surprised that you went ahead and bought this.
Hi Robert, when I see something useful I like to try it, despite some associated challenges :-) So far it hasn't broken yet. I'm slowly getting used to it. I'll post a 1.000 km review as soon as the weather permits. Cheers!
I’ve read hundreds of pages at a german Riese& Müller online forum to waste time until my Superdelite arrives. Nobody had any problems with the E14 shift box or the hub itself. Problems people have, all minor: -uncomfortable position of the shifter at the handlebar -rattling Suntour suspension fork -rattling bike stand That’s pretty much it. A guy tried to solve some problems with his 3D printer: www.bikeparts-jantos.de/
I’ve been heavily considering an electric mountain bike or an all out electric bike like a Kuberg. The perk of this is staying in shape. I can get some exercise on the way to work, save gas, no insurance and batteries are easy to swap, not that I would need them. But the speed is obviously slower than a Kuberg. The Kuberg is waaaaaay faster, but not “legal” to ride in all the same places. But nobody cares if they’re on bike paths. The worst part is not being allowed on mountain bike trails with a Kuberg.
Rohloff is faster to maintain than any other gear system on the market. Calibration is made automatically, no need to manually handling some screws and has the largest translation. It is more compact than a chain and with the belt is completely maintanance free. It is not informative to hear you speculate on how difficult it is to remove the back wheel... To remove the Wheel takes 30 seconds: disconnect the connectoin, remove the axle, done. The connection is idiot proof, see ua-cam.com/video/Ovfc37d1jSU/v-deo.html (4:10). My Rohloff has over 10k km with no problems. Switching gears under load doesnt break it on a manual shift.The E14 is build to measure if the load is acceptable for the switching and is build in the BOSCH software. You wont see Rohloff E14 with any other brand than BOSCH... Happy Driving!
Hi Thanador, Removing the rear wheel of a fully suspended bike equipped with a Rohloff and a Gates carbon belt is quite complicated. The video you sent me (which I had already watched because I'm a fan of Propel) is of a Charger, which doesn't have a rear suspension and therefore doesn't have a belt tensioner system. So, the first thing you need to do when removing the rear wheel of the R&M Delite Mountain is to offload the tension on the belt by somehow untying the spring which loads the system. This spring is located in a very inconvenient place which requires you to either place the bike upside down which will damage the Kiox or alternatively, to somehow lift the bike, which is impractical if you're riding alone. Then you must have pliers to put the spring back. That spring has a lot of tension! Then there's a wheel that guards the belt from leaving the rear sprocket which you must unscrew to be able to remove the belt. On the other side you must disconnect the three pin electrical plug of the e-shifter and in particular make sure you have it correctly lined up before applying pressure to reconnect it or you'll bend the pins and it's game-over! While doing all this you have to make sure you don't bend the belt. Then you must fix the tire/tube and put it all back without braking anything. I strongly advise against it. I rather prepare the tube with anti-puncture gel or have a spray-can with gel in my bag than to risk damaging the bike. Cheers!
The E-14 doesn't measure the load in the gears. What it does is to synchronise the shifting with the power supplied by the motor to reduce the tension in the hub at the time of shifting. But your legs are still pushing and if you shift under "leg-load" you can hear the gears crack like hell. That sends shills down my spine!! And you can't afford to do this often otherwise the gear box will break = €€! or $$! or ££! :-)
@@ruirodtube you won’t break the Rohloff If you try and change under load with the E14. Same as a manual shifting Rohloff… the load will simply not allow the selector pawls to operate (to select your gear), and all that happens is you will not be able to twist the shifter. When the load is lifted or minimised when changing gears with the E14, the E14 will then operate and shift the gear requested (as signalled) to the DC/DC CAN and the Bosch motor. I agree the E14 shifter is not ideal for mountain biking - I still prefer the manual shifter. Although it only took 30-60 minutes to get used to the E14, it’s still good and you can use “continuous holding down” of the E14 button/shifter to change 3 and then another 3 and another 3, very quickly by leaving the button pressed.
My Rohloff (non-electronic) is on its 4th frame and has done roughly 80-90,000 miles. In that time it's never needed a repair and just gets the oil changed every 6 months to 1 year. I wouldn't stress too much over the need to send off the bike or at least the wheel if it needs repair - I think you'd be fairly unlucky to ever be in the position that you need to do that. But now I've got one of these R&M Delite GT's due next week so my old Rohloff will be finding itself a new owner, who, with any luck will get another 80-90,000 miles without issue. I've never been too careful about shifting under load - it's not best practice, but it's never caused any issue on my bike even when I used it with a 750W eBike motor. In my experience the gear hub is seriously over-engineered and designed to take a lot of abuse.
Nice to know. Thanks for sharing. I hope my Rohloff will last that long.
thank you for very useful video.
I am desperate to get away from the derailleur system so This R&M with Rohloff oR the upcoming Revonte One system which is due out by end of 2021 (Hopefully)..
Keep us updated on your test.
This is a great video to inform my next bike but it's not technical MTB trail riding, where I often need to change gears two or three at a time up and down as quickly as possible, especially when I don't know the terrain. I've never seen a Rohloff at a trail centre but looks perfect for anything else, especially for comfort. This is the grand tourer (Range Rover) of fireroads, forest paths and rough country lanes.
“Ive never seen a Rohloff at a trail centre”? This will help you understand how the Rohloff can perform in the real mountain biking world. Better than a derailleur 🙂. ua-cam.com/video/oUEoJfbtLwk/v-deo.html
@@FamilymoirGoogleAccount that is not very technical trail riding in the video but I get it that you easily get the momentum over obstacles with the motor. Totally wrecks the handing coming down hill though. It's a different ride but without some 'flickability' and a lower price it is going to remain niche.
@@MR-sf7ox agree on the price, but that won’t come down as it’s a high-quality product that will last for many many years and some have done over 300,000kms on their Rohloffs. The main filming was done on a blue trail, nice flowy single track with a few 0.5m drops and jumps, and some serious g-outs - nothing too demanding for a hood mtb’er. However, have a look at the 13:00 minute mark with Nikko riding… around 13:10-13:15 is a black trail which is technical, with 1-1.5m (4-5ft) plus drops, gap and other technical trail features… it may not look it on the video, but very steep and technical in places. The guy riding (Nikko) just won a local regional Enduro series with the Rohloff, with proper technical and demanding trails at each of the 5-6 location rounds. Typically we ride quicker on any trail than most - the Rohloff does not slow you down…. quite the opposite, it provides an advantage in quicker shifting. I wouldn’t agree it is a niche product, but it is certainly expensive and not for everyone…. same as a $5000 mtb and a $20,000 mtb. Flickability…. is certainly less on an eMtb compared to a normal mtb, but a Rohloff fitted eMtb is just as flickable. In the end it is an expensive upgrade, but there’s plenty of people who have done it and many more want to. I’m doing another 4 eMtb conversions this week. Like many upgrades, it is a personal choice.
Totally agree with your advice to disable the auto downshift. It is so easy to select any gear when stationary.
My only problem is the gear change switch. Which is not instinctive when one is under stress. Am experimenting with positioning so hope I will find an acceptable position. So far bike has been excellent.
iM LOOKING AT ONE OF THESE I HAVE A 2021 BULLS COPPERHEAD BT LIKE THE DUAL BATTERIES AND ROHLOFF HUB HOW HEAVY IS THIS EBIKE?
Hi, my Delite Mountain Rohloff is about 27 Kg (single battery) and my Superdelite GT Vario is about 37 Kg (dual battery) with the front rack option.
Cheers!
Hello again ! The electronic shifting of the gear takes 0,2 s. I have received my Delite GT Rohloff. That’s an amazing piece of machinery. I wish I wouldn’t have my rear tire punctured. Changing the inner tube seems to be an issue with the Rohlhoff. What I read in the maintenance manual is not so obvious !
Hello Philippe, the e-shifting takes a fixed amount of time and when shifting several gears in quick sequence it's impossible to speed it up, unlike a manual system which allows quick-shifting of up to three gears at once. The e-shifting takes some time to get used to and some anticipation when quickly transitioning from downhill to uphill.
Puncturing the rear tire with the Rohloff is a day-stopper if you don't have some kind of spray with gel/foam in your backpack or a good tubeless preparation or both :-)
Hello, it’s a long time I haven’t heard from you. I hope you are doing well. I sold my Delite GT Rohloff to change size. I used to have a size 51 but in the long run it appeared to be too large for me. I am hesitating between a super Delite HS with the vario and a Delite with the Rohloff for practically the same amount of money. I think that the dual battery is more relevant for the HS version. It can be discussed. Because you have practiced both the vario and Rohloff, for which system would you go if you had to make a choice ?
I have a nearly ten years old bike (Fahrrad Manufaktur) with non eletronic Rohloff, and a new R&M Homage with Rohloff.
In 2019, I had some trouble with the Fahrrad Manufaktur, not involving the Rohloff hub; but during repair, the shop mechanic detect a potential looseness problem with the Rohloff (the hub was functional and I detected no problem at all): rear wheel was sent to Rohloff factory, the hub has been repaired, and send back to the shop... totally free of charge.
About the electronic Rohloff, I am not very keen of the shifter; instead of two (too small and not very precise) gummy buttons, they should have used a small trigger to be moved up or down to shift gears.
Important: like other gear hubs, Rohloff hab has a run-in period; drag is significantly reduced after around 1000km.
Hi Ruirodtube! Do you recall your average speed for this range test please? Also, do you have any idea how much power you were supplying through the pedals? I ask because I’m considering a dual battery R&M for touring. With love, Ken
17:17 I heard a "Moien" from you and had to do a double take. Moien from Niederanven - about 15km from where you filmed this. 👍
I'm becoming more and more a fan of the R&M bikes. I see you have the superdelite with enviolo and the delite mountain with rohloff but I get the impression you were not happy with the rohloff for off road use. I'm thinking of the superdelite with rohloff. I will mostly ride the piste cyclable in Luxembourg and from time to time try the VTT trails or off road around Mullerthal.
Now you tried both systems, do you have any thoughts on this combination?
Maybe see you on PC4 or PC1 coming through Ernster some time...
Hi Eco Worrier,
R&M bikes are excellent.
Superdelite with Rohloff is a great combination.
The Rohloff isn't the best gearbox for rapid gear changes required for Mountainbike rides where you transition from steep downhills to steep uphills like we have in Luxembourg. It does the job, but slower. However, it works great for bikepaths and smooth off road. It has a great gear range and you won't have to worry about gear/chain maintenance ever again!
Cheers!
Thanks for the review. But there's something that you said that doesn't add up; as far as I've heard ,the integration of the Rohloff in the Bosh system allows the motor to automatically reduce torque for a bit when you shift gears. So what you've said about "not shifting under load" don't think it's necessary . Maybe ask this question to R&M and see what they say.
Another quick question. I like to ride fast on the flat paths and downhill - say 30 to 35 kmh. I will get no motor assist at this speed but it will be good exercise. I guess that will save the battery for the hills and let me turbo up them. Will it work like that or am I mistaken?
Also, how is the transition above 25kmh with the rohloff and the gates? A sudden loading on the legs or smoother when the motor drops out?
no it wont work like that you will have to pedal your ass off with no power on.you can keep it in eco.
Hi Eco Worrier,
Sorry about the late reply but I didn't see this question earlier.
Yes, when you pedal above 25-26 km/h the motor doesn't assist you which saves the battery for uphills.
The transition to leg power only is very smooth/gradual. Between the speed of 25 and 26 km/h it gradually reduces the assistance. You can barely feel the transition with the new Bosch motors.
Cheers!
Well you persuaded me to buy a Delight mountain Rohloff and I await delivery at end of October ...
Do you have any more comments now you have ridden yours for several months? and is there anything to check upon delivery?
Happy pedaling
Hi Old Bean, I’m happy for you. It’s a good bike.
When you receive it please check the handlebar full travel stops. They prevent the fork hitting the frame when fully twisted on both sides. Mine was not well adjusted - it protected one side but not the other.
I advise you to ask the shop to disable the automatic downshifting feature (Kiosk). This feature automatically downshifts to 5th gear when it senses the bike stopped. If you stall and have your foot on a pedal the Rohloff will grind and crack while down shifting. 😖
Buy a couple of small mudguards, especially one for the back. This will prevent most of the mud from getting into the rear suspension area.
I like clipless pedals, so I bought a pair to replace the originals. However, the original pedals are wide, metallic and have studs, so you could give them a try if you’re not using clips.
Buy a couple of sprays with gel to re-inflate the tires. Especially the rear tire, which is impossible to field-repair due to the belt tensioner. If you have a puncture use the spray.
I hope this helps.
I rode 1.300 kms on my bike already so I’m thinking about filming a new video to talk about the experiences I had with it.
@@ruirodtube thank you for the advice ..will deal with the points you mentioned .....dealer agreed to fix me up with “tubeless” which I have used for years.
Thanks. And have fun ...look forward to your next video
Hello, I wondered what make your mount is for your mobile phone and kiox ? Thankyou
Hi, it's a Topeak RideCase with the iPhone 8/SE mount. I have it on all of my bikes and I love it.
Cheers!
Which bike do you prefer cube or riese muller delite mountain???
Cube for sure. However, when it gets really muddy the R&M is a great weather-proof bike
To educate and better understand, the Rohloff E-14 system communicates with the motor to drop the motor power during a shift. There are limitations however:
The E-14 system uses the crank sensor to calculate when the cranks are vertical so the human pedal power is at a minimum during the shift. If the rider dramatically changes their riding cadence shortly before the shift though, then this calculation won't be as accurate and the power will be back on before the shift process has been completed.
The human power input level cannot be altered by the software. Although the shift process is planned for when the cranks are vertical, some riders have a very consistent cadence and maintain power even at the vertical crank dead-point. When this happens, the power will exceed that required to perform a proper smooth shift.
With the Rohloff, it is advisable to always drop power during a shift. The Rohloff E-14 system is fast for electric shifting...it is however, still slower than a mechanically shifted unit as far more has to happen to complete the shift.
After all the things that you mention that can go on with the Rohloff and all the anxiety associated, I am surprised that you went ahead and bought this.
Hi Robert, when I see something useful I like to try it, despite some associated challenges :-)
So far it hasn't broken yet. I'm slowly getting used to it. I'll post a 1.000 km review as soon as the weather permits.
Cheers!
Glad to hear this as I really would like to get one eventually.
I’ve read hundreds of pages at a german Riese& Müller online forum to waste time until my Superdelite arrives.
Nobody had any problems with the E14 shift box or the hub itself.
Problems people have, all minor:
-uncomfortable position of the shifter at the handlebar
-rattling Suntour suspension fork
-rattling bike stand
That’s pretty much it. A guy tried to solve some problems with his 3D printer:
www.bikeparts-jantos.de/
I’ve been heavily considering an electric mountain bike or an all out electric bike like a Kuberg.
The perk of this is staying in shape. I can get some exercise on the way to work, save gas, no insurance and batteries are easy to swap, not that I would need them. But the speed is obviously slower than a Kuberg.
The Kuberg is waaaaaay faster, but not “legal” to ride in all the same places. But nobody cares if they’re on bike paths. The worst part is not being allowed on mountain bike trails with a Kuberg.
Rohloff is faster to maintain than any other gear system on the market. Calibration is made automatically, no need to manually handling some screws and has the largest translation.
It is more compact than a chain and with the belt is completely maintanance free.
It is not informative to hear you speculate on how difficult it is to remove the back wheel... To remove the Wheel takes 30 seconds: disconnect the connectoin, remove the axle, done.
The connection is idiot proof, see ua-cam.com/video/Ovfc37d1jSU/v-deo.html (4:10).
My Rohloff has over 10k km with no problems. Switching gears under load doesnt break it on a manual shift.The E14 is build to measure if the load is acceptable for the switching and is build in the BOSCH software. You wont see Rohloff E14 with any other brand than BOSCH...
Happy Driving!
Hi Thanador,
Removing the rear wheel of a fully suspended bike equipped with a Rohloff and a Gates carbon belt is quite complicated. The video you sent me (which I had already watched because I'm a fan of Propel) is of a Charger, which doesn't have a rear suspension and therefore doesn't have a belt tensioner system.
So, the first thing you need to do when removing the rear wheel of the R&M Delite Mountain is to offload the tension on the belt by somehow untying the spring which loads the system. This spring is located in a very inconvenient place which requires you to either place the bike upside down which will damage the Kiox or alternatively, to somehow lift the bike, which is impractical if you're riding alone. Then you must have pliers to put the spring back. That spring has a lot of tension!
Then there's a wheel that guards the belt from leaving the rear sprocket which you must unscrew to be able to remove the belt.
On the other side you must disconnect the three pin electrical plug of the e-shifter and in particular make sure you have it correctly lined up before applying pressure to reconnect it or you'll bend the pins and it's game-over!
While doing all this you have to make sure you don't bend the belt.
Then you must fix the tire/tube and put it all back without braking anything.
I strongly advise against it. I rather prepare the tube with anti-puncture gel or have a spray-can with gel in my bag than to risk damaging the bike.
Cheers!
The E-14 doesn't measure the load in the gears. What it does is to synchronise the shifting with the power supplied by the motor to reduce the tension in the hub at the time of shifting.
But your legs are still pushing and if you shift under "leg-load" you can hear the gears crack like hell. That sends shills down my spine!!
And you can't afford to do this often otherwise the gear box will break = €€! or $$! or ££! :-)
@@ruirodtube you won’t break the Rohloff If you try and change under load with the E14. Same as a manual shifting Rohloff… the load will simply not allow the selector pawls to operate (to select your gear), and all that happens is you will not be able to twist the shifter. When the load is lifted or minimised when changing gears with the E14, the E14 will then operate and shift the gear requested (as signalled) to the DC/DC CAN and the Bosch motor. I agree the E14 shifter is not ideal for mountain biking - I still prefer the manual shifter. Although it only took 30-60 minutes to get used to the E14, it’s still good and you can use “continuous holding down” of the E14 button/shifter to change 3 and then another 3 and another 3, very quickly by leaving the button pressed.