Incubation, using the Little Giant Incubator, How to incubate chicken eggs, demonstration
Вставка
- Опубліковано 24 січ 2009
- How to Raise Chickens, see my entire video guide here:
How to incubate chicken eggs Showing just how to start the unit, select and place eggs, things to consider as you begin to incubate your fertile chicken eggs. Incubation takes 21 days. Stop turning the eggs, or remove the automatic turner on the 18th day. Learn MORE about raising chickens by following this link: www.amazon.com/Regarding-Chick... The calibrated thermometer I use in this video is available at Amazon (I do not get paid via any of these links) www.amazon.com/Thomas-Traceabl...
I was thinking of buying the giant incubator and this gave me a lot more information.
You are super welcome and thank you for posting... when I was young, I lived in Flagstaff and had many Navajo friends growing up... long ago... I'm so glad the video was helpful to you.
answered afew qestions. we are southern ute an navajo. my twins just got the turner an incubation unit. your movie was great for us. thanks..
You are very welcome, I'm glad you benefited from the information!
Nice, Rcom's are good units... glad you are having great success with it! Thanks for commenting.
The more fresh the eggs of course, the better and generally one week is pretty good, expect viability fall off pretty quickly after 7 days. tilting the eggs, or even turning them over in 12 hour cycles can help... storage temps also have an effect on viability 50-60 deg. F. is pretty good, with elevated humidity. Let's say you have a trio (2 hens, one rooster) and you want to incubate full capacity in your incubator. Nothing to lose by saving them all, as the freshest eggs will do fine still.
Your welcome Carlos.... yes, the still air units are very sensitive to temperature changes.
The forced air units are very even in their distribution of warm air, with almost no cool or uneven temps within the incubator.
Thanks for the comment
great! I'm glad you've had such good luck with yours! Thanks for commenting....
@gokory That's correct, I do not put any water in the incubator(s) when starting off and in my part of the country, I don't put any water in any incubator until the 18th day through pipping/hatching. Otherwise (for me) the eggs do not sufficiently dehydrate during incubation resulting in chicks that pip but do not complete the hatch due to being too large. Egg shell condition and environmental humidity are all factors to consider.
That's correct, the eggs just sit motionless on their sides, this allows the chicks inside to properly orientate for pipping/hatching. Thank you for your question!
Thanks so much for the wonderful sharing!!
You are most welcome... also consider the Genesis Incubator, it has a DC connection for battery backup.
Where I live, the humidity levels are quite high, so I don't use any water in the incubators during incubation until the 18th day... from the 18th day to hatch completion, I fill all reservoirs to keep chicks from drying out and sticking to the shell interior.
@travhal Yes, that's exactly what I do.... completely dry until the 18th day. However, if the air cell progresses too quickly, then you will have to increase humidity to slow that down, but I have never had to do that... we also run our a/c and it has no effect.
Thank you, so glad you like them... yes, always wash your hands with soap before and after handling your eggs (skin oils can block egg shell pores) and you can sanitize the incubator between hatches with Tek-Trol, or a 10% bleach solution (wear gloves) and then dry in the sun... really easy. The little giant is probably the least expensive and does just fine... the other unit has pre-set temps, so is more stable in the end... but comparable.
Just place your thermometers as per your instruction manual. Thermometer bulb should be at the height of the upper third of the incubating egg. See how to place and read thermometers for wet bulb readings on my Roll-X incubator demonstration.
I agree that sanitization may not be necessary for the occasional small hatch and yes, it removes the bloom (nature's protection), For the large hatch, it's proven beneficial (solid science) and improves hatch rates. Tek-Trol, for example, cannot cause a "deformed chick". The statistics are proven, that large hatches (800+ per incubation batch) have demonstrated improved hatch rates when properly sanitized. Each person may do what works for them. I present both methods for information.
Thank you for commenting, I'm glad you got something out of it.
Wow, this is the best instructional demonstration of incubation that I've found yet! Thank you. I wish you did an updated version with some of the new incubator designs. New Subscriber! Is TekTrol still the best sanitizer?
Thank you, yes, TekTrol is still my preferred sanitizer for incubation. The principals of incubation haven't changed, but I may look around for a new model to demonstrate/review. Thanks!
You are most welcome!
Thanks for the comment...
I wouldn't personally "shake" the eggs to turn them.. you can turn them by hand with no problem. Opening the unit during incubation isn't a problem at all, you have plenty of time to turn it off, open the unit, turn the eggs, close it and turn it back on... shaking is a little risky in my opinion.
@XxB0rd3rsProxX Most thermostats have the ability to be reset.... consult the owners manual for the thermostat style/design you have and see what the reset procedure is.... often it's to turn the dial all the way clockwise and then all the way down to zero... then come back to the operating temp you desire... hope that helps you out!
Yes, with the still air units I recommend 102 deg. F. in the top third of the egg. You'll notice the temperature will be lower at the bottom third, this is why it's a different setting than with forced air.
Thanks for your question!
Thank YOU!
your vids are so very good. what is better the little giant or hove bator. and how do we sanitise it, what do we use. and can we wash our hands with soap before we touch the eggs?
Yet ANOTHER EXCELLENT video.. THANK YOU!
Thank you so much, I actually made this video in 2006! Glad it's still being appreciated.
Quality lasts my friend.. ;)
@travhal There are many factors, including egg shell quality, bloom and beginning freshness... I go by the air cell size and almost never use water during incubation until the 18th day... during pipping, I max out the humidity to prevent chicks from drying out and sticking to their shell lining. You will have to gage your own humidity practices. if the humidity is too high, the chicks cannot successfully pip out as they will be too large when the time comes. It's trial and error...
Thanks for sharing:)Regards From Turkey..
@HTCSWEOD Thanks for the reply, are using the dry incubation method? I live in Canada, Manitoba and we have had lots of rain so the humidity is high but in my house it is dry because of the a/c. Do you recommend trying the dry incubation method where i add no water until the 18 day?
Hi, before I'm become a DIY farmer & also before I rear my spring chickens, may I know which brands is de best, Little Giant or hova Bator? Also what kind of sanitizers u used? Thanks!
I do appreciate your comments Doratooley, and there is a long standing practice of never using sanitizers and incubating only those eggs which have clean shells. A well respected APA Hall of Fame Poultryman, Master Breeder, Master Exhibitor, introduced me to his sanitizing methods, the improvements were very impressive. I also must do it to meet Dept. of Ag inspection requirements, so it's not an option for me. Keep it natural if you can. Thanks again.
I use Tek-Trol as a sanitizer... this unit is for the hobbyist, if you are going into business, you're going to want cabinet incubators, I use GQF units for that... separate incubation and hatching units you can continuously incubate in.
Thanks!
98 deg. F. should be the lower limit for incubation, that is if you are using a forced air system. It's always best to stabilize temperatures before you begin a hatch. Dramatic temperature fluctuations can profoundly effect the incubation process.
Sir I want understand tharmostat hitting tamporchr pogroms but iam not understand tharmostat stating bige tharmostat stating without conctor hitting
its good video thanks
Thanks for the video! Now let's hope my silkie eggs will hatch with my still air. They aren't selling the fan kit, and it is my first time hatching......
Fred,
I enjoyed your comparisons of the three incubators--as well as you 'nice' BW prints on the wall!
You mentioned that you 'only incubated' in the Little Giant---Where and how did you hatch them?
My purchase will definitely be based on your presentations---thank you for taking the time to produce them.
pg
Thank you Lefty... I'm glad you enjoyed the presentation... in this demonstration, the Little Giant units were being used for incubation and on the 18th day, the developing eggs were transferred into a Top Hatch incubator... the top hatch units are easier to clean out and then the Little Giant units are ready to start another batch without waiting... thank you for your question!
Thanks for commenting... there are several online locations for getting the fan assembly kit. It's really easy to install. Best of luck to you!
The most important indicator or proper humidity and weight loss, is to candle the egg itself during incubation. learn how by visiting my website. A humidity level indicator or wet bulb thermometer is not mandatory and you can probably get along without those indicators. But you must look at the eggs by candling to know if they are on track. Fill your water troughs during the last days so the chicks don't get stuck during pipping.
nice one
im hatching 5 eggs from my aunt im using a little giant incubator and the heat was WAY to hot for them so I turned down the heat how far down could the heat go until it gets to cold?
Thank you for your prompt reply. I hope you can give me some advice regarding the following:
I am on solar power and have 12vdc, 24vdc and 110 ac available. I am interested in two of the 1588 units, but need to know the total power draw (with turner) for the AC model and the DC model -- the mfgs. website does not show them.
Furthermore, I have heard that incubation is not a viable option at elevations over 3,000 feet. My poultry yards are at 5,600 feet elevation-- the broodies don't seem to have a problem up here; what are my alternatives?
Thank you for your attention to this matter.
pg
I'm also on a whole house solar system (10kw)... the electricity demand varies, of course, depending on the environmental temperature they are already operating in. So, you'll want the incubators in a warm area... do not insulate the incubators and inhibit air flow... the leads into your other problem.. altitude. If you are at 5,600 feet, the forced air units are your best bet... a still air unit would suffer more from the low oxygen levels. With the forced air unit, you will be fine, but expect a lower hatch rate and possibly having to continue your incubation a tad longer. Monitor the moisture loss of the eggs by weighing them periodically... 13% (assuming the eggs are fresh) should be lost by the 21st day. I hope that helps you out... candle those eggs and fill the incubators with eggs, a full incubator is more stable and holds heat better.
Frederick Dunn Also... see my review of the Genesis incubator... it runs on 12 v DC....
You're welcome John...
Until you have established the levels which work best for you and the species you are hatching, it's a good idea to start off with the manufacturer's recommendations and go from there. Keep records and document the humidity as you go.
No problem at all... the forced air little giant incubator sells for around $100.00 around $115.00 with the egg turner as shown...
Thanks for the video.
You are very welcome Lawrence! I'm glad you enjoyed it.
@bdsoper1 the sanitizing procedure is described in great detail in the hatching section of the DVD Titled Regarding Chickens... most libraries have it... UA-cam has a 10 minute limit on their vids, so every detail isn't in these shorts sorry...
do i really need a humidity tester thing? or can i just make sure the water tray is full.
Hi Fred, we just got our first incubator and are having trouble with the temps. We purchased the Farm Innovators model 4200 and it has a built in thermometer and the one like you have,they are not showing the same temps. Can you recommend a good digital thermometer? Thanks for all your time and information. Have a blessed day.
+blessedfamily27 This is a link to the Calibrated Thermometer I always use to double check the provided thermometers... www.amazon.com/Thomas-Traceable-Digital-Thermometer-Display/dp/B0069TUET8/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1456502600&sr=8-13&keywords=calibrated+thermometer
+Frederick Dunn Thank you for your very quick reply. I am now using 3 thermometers and all are way off. Have a blessed day.Amber
So glad to have helped... you can also just take one of your thermometers to any Pharmacist.. have them put it in their controlled climate system and then just mark your thermometer with the actual temp... for example, when your thermometer is at 99.5.. and their calibrated system says 101.3 (for example) then you will know how much your thermometer is off... :)
Humidity and temperatures are discussed in detail in my video post on the RX incubator.... including wet bulb readings... thanks for your question.
so what I'm saying is... keep collecting the eggs... if you were keeping them only one week, then incubating with what you have, you'll do ok, but you have no problem continuing to collect and add to your incubation tray until it is full, even some of the older eggs will successfully hatch. The most recently collected will do the best in that batch. Best of luck!
@fenteng43 I use Tek-Trol... you can get it by the gallon, pint, or even as a spray for hard to reach places... it forms a residue on the shell and continues to fight bacteria after the initial cleansing. Thank you for the comment! Using Sanitizer has definitely improved my hatch rate... you have to weigh the added cost. Hatching under a brood hen is still my first choice (">
Where do you get small egg cups for the little giant?
www.miller-mfg.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=IG049
Duck eggs should be rolled rather than "tilted" for automatic turning... so, either turning by hand 3 or more times a day or, use a unit which rolls eggs rather than tilts them. The Rollx-II does that as does the Top Hatch Unit... you may watch my videos on those models... I realize your question was removed, but I answered it anyway for the benefit of others...
Great Video ... Very Helpfull
wats the sanitizer you use?
TekTrol.
So informatice thankyou so much!!!Just one question,I will probably only be incubating 20 quail eggs at a time or a dozen muscovy eggs,with that small amount of eggs and such a large amount of space(Im not using the egg turner)Ive heard you can use the shakenbake method.You just kind of shake the incubator gently and the eggs will role over without opening the lid do you think this will work or a big no no?
I woult not attempt the "shake-and-bake method" Embryos are very sensitive at early stages, and you can damage their fine blood vessels if jarred or addled. Hand turning would be best if you don't have a automatic egg turner.
If I have a still air inc, and the top of my eggs are at 99 degrees, is that too cold? Should the top read 102? I can't get the get the fan in time to beat my eggs ariving today. Your help would be much appriciated!!
Yes, the top of the egg should be at 102 f.
At the end of the hatch, you should have water in the incubator until every chick is out of it's shell. Then you can run it dry as a brooder... When you candle your eggs, that will be the best indicator regarding IF you need to add water during incubation. But you will always need water during hatch or the chicks may stick to their shells... drying out at that time is BAD this is why chicks may pip and not hatch, they become stuck or are too large to move...
"when" your chicks hatch, I recommend putting them into a home made brooder... they will be developing, growing and needing heat for approximately six weeks. Check out my posted video on table top brooder.. where I simply use a glass fish tank/reptile tank in the kitchen... lost of fun! Thanks for commenting!
Often the chicks that develop completely yet fail to hatch may be too large to turn within the shell.. if they pip but don't complete the 360 degree crack out, they may have been too large. Candling eggs during incubation can answer the question regarding humidity, if you can't candle (see into the egg) weighing the eggs together is another method as they would need to lose 13% of their original weight throughout the incubation period. Breeding stock health is also VERY important.
what can you do if you dont have one
thanks I like this
hello,
where did you place the thermometer and hygrometer inside? what kind is accurate?
thank you.
Get any thermometer, take it to a pharmacist and ask him/her to put it in with their calibrated thermometer system, them mark any difference on your own thermometer. Then, plage the thermometer in your incubator at the top of your eggs, it doesn't matter where, just so you can read it through the window. If the incubator is a still-air system, you want it at the top 1/3 of the eggs.
oh ok thanks for the help
Does any one know when are to stop adding water in the incubator?
Thanks, watch for my next video, where I review the Hova-Bater with a large top view window and battery backup.
hopw this isnt a stuipid question, but i am barrowing an incubator from a friend and this is my first time and it had no instructions. how exactly and where exactly do you add water for humidity
There are no "stupid questions"... The bottom of the incubator has troughs pressed into it, you just fill them with water, as much or as little as you need to keep your eggs dehydrating on schedule. Use filtered water if you can... distilled, even better. There are detailed instructions on my main website if you need more info...
I hope you are reading this. I have an automatic incubator with capacity of 2000 eggs. I used the default configuration set by the manufacture temperature 38.5 degree Celsius humidity 60. some time i got 60% of my eggs hatched and sometime when they start hatching (less than 10%) then the remaining eggs died. I cannot figure out what seem to be the problem it because of humidity or temperature setup. Now my incubator is closed because of this problem. need your help
My first question for you is, what do you see when you candle the eggs? That is far more critical for gauging proper moisture loss during incubation than the actual humidity levels. With 2000 eggs, you would do a sampling and weigh eggs in batches of 24 so can measure their percentage of weight loss, they should have lost 13% of their weight by day 21. Of the chicks that died in the eggs, did they pip and not hatch, or did they fail to pip the eggs at all? If humidity is too high, and the chicks do develop but fail to hatch, they may be too large to move adequately inside the shell prior to hatching. My last question is what are you sanitizing with? That would be my last "potential" issue, that bacteria got to the developing embryos. I hope one of those suggestions helps you trouble shoot your hatches.
candling from day 6-17 seem to be normal embryo alive but cannot say about much about the air cell. Many of the eggs have not start to pip out but very few do ( with some greenish fluid stick on them). I broke out many of the eggs. Many of the embryo are completely developed but not pip. I do not use any chemical for sanitation only water and detergent. Thank you very much for your respond.
One thing i forgot to mention we do have black out sometimes for more than 2 hours and i notice the temperature and humidity get little bit high when i turn on solar inverter.
what should be done in case of blackout for 2 hours?
what should be ideal humidity and temperature for successful hatch?
Mr. Dunn I started 18 eggs and realize now (day 10) that I should have placed them point down will changing them now affect the hatch later?
+Franz Jayne Re-position them right away, better now than never... they should still be fine assuming all other incubation conditions are good :) I think you've caught the mistake in time... I wish you well with your hatch Franz!
+Frederick Dunn thank you for the info . I just recandled them and set them in accordingly. I will let you all know how the hatch turns out . til then here to crossing my fingers and praying.
I think they will be just fine...
yes
do you know a good humidity for incubating eggs 1-18 days because i have a hydrometer and it usually stays at about 38% is that a good humidity?
I'd go by air-cell size, not the actual humidity.
Ok thanks!
@3031607 The sex of the bird cannot be controlled by incubation temperature... this IS true with some reptile species, but not birds.
You can google a company called Egg Cartons dot com and they have it in stock... most online poultry providers carry this incubator... McMurray Hatchery also carries them and spare parts... in fact, with the parts you could build your own unit.
is thet a temp at where you can get only hens or roosters?
No, you can't determine the sex of the embryo by altering the heat parameters. That's possible with some reptiles, but not chickens. Lower temps just take longer to hatch, higher temps speed things up a little.
hello sir
I made a incubator at my as u r methods but
it's totally failed all eggs r dry temperature is at 96°f and I put some of water in it ,turned daily twice
but it's not working pls give me suggestions
+shaul hameed Turn at least three times a day, not two and you need to boost your humidity, also 96 deg. f is too low, 99.5 f for a forced air unit, it it's still air (no fan) you need 102 deg. F at upper third of eggs placed. Are you saying that they dried out? What was the air cell like at the end of incubation? Did the embryos develop at all?
I've just completed my 3rd almost completely failed hatch attempt. Although everything seem to go perfectly it looks as though problems are developing at day 17, 18 and 19. I'm useing a homemade incubator that seem to work perfectly at all times. I turn 5 times a day, temp stays at 99.5
humidity holds good at 60%. First batch 30 eggs, 0 hatch. second batch 32 eggs 2 hatch. third batch 40 eggs 1 hatch. its weird. forth batch is loading for one more attempt before cooler weather, any thoughts or advice is appreciated
+Dave Meeks Not enough information. What is the air cell like at day 15? Are the chicks able to pip out? Maybe too much humidity. I also found that turning eggs by hand the first 3 days and the last 4 days (until you hear the first pip) makes a big difference. I use a GQF incubator with turner but turn by hand when I can (like weekends) by taking out some of the trays. Turning by hand with the eggs on their side will greatly improve a hatch. I often get 100%.
+duckmanjoel Thanks that's a good tip.
+duckmanjoel You should not be turning by hand, nor turning at all during the last few days.. from day 18 on.. the chicks are orientating themselves for pipping. If the air cell charts I've posted on my website aren't clear enough, you can also determine proper dehydration by weight... 13% of original/start weight. During pipping, increase humidity to prevent drying out and sticking to the shell/membrane during hatch. As I show in the demonstration, it's easier to run without added water, until you are certain that the dehydration rate is adequate. Easier to add humidity later, than it is to dehydrate quicker if weight loss/dehydration is too slow. Chubby chicks are the result of too much humidity at the point of hatch/pipping... they simply cannot turn within the shell and die in place after pipping. I hope that helps?
+Dave Meeks Sorry I missed this question... by now you already have your answer.. but you mention the unit is home made.. does that mean you have a blower/forced air system? Or, is this a still air system without circulating fan inside? The 99.5 deg. reference is for forced air systems... if it's a still air unit, you will want a higher temp at the top third of the eggs when on end circa 101-102 deg. F. the temps would stratify... are your "turns" rolling or tilting the eggs? As duckmanjoel says... more information would be helpful. What are the problems you are seeing at the 17th day?
Frederick Dunn
You will notice I said turn until the first pip. Then I add water and close it up until the hatch is complete. Sometimes genetics or other factors will cause the eggs to hatch a day early or late so I use the first pip as my indicator. Been hatching successfully for 40 years.
nice,,,
if you don't use the incubators for hatching where do you complete the hatching?
See my video on the Top Hatch Incubator.. for small hatches, I use those, I also use the GQF Sportsman as it has a large hatching tray and very easy to clean out.
oke thanks farm and fleet usually has good deals
Hey, Do you need to add water to the incubator?
That depends on the environmental humidity conditions where you live. In my part of the U.S. I don't put water in my incubators until it's time for pipping, then I fill the reservoir during the hatch so the chicks don't dry out and stick to the shell. In my neck of the woods, high humidity is the number one reason chicks develop yet fail to hatch because they did not lose enough moisture through the shell during incubation and can't properly turn to pip out completely. Or, if they do make it out, chicks developing with high humidity will have albumen poking through their stomach.
Thanks.... I'm so glad you've learned something (">
How did you sanitize the eggs? I was always told not to wash them!
Because I'm a poultry technician and get inspected by the Dept. of Ag, I have to use sanitizer and it does improve hatch rates. TekTrol is what's approved. Eggs for hatching should not be scrubbed. If you, like me, plan to use your incubators for several batches of eggs, then sanitizing is going to be very important. Bacteria builds fast in that hot and humid incubator. I wish you all the best Teresa!
@@FrederickDunn thank you!
cool
@3031607 Yes, but what hatches...is--
@rainbowfarmsale200 Egg sanitizing improves hatch percentages... it you are a registered hatchery, it's "required" by the Dept. of Agriculture (this is my situation)... not only does the Dept. of Ag require sanitation of the eggs, but all associated working surfaces. Hens hatch and walk away with their brood, incubators may hatch continuously allowing pathogens to compound. Mother hens are BEST, artificial incubation benefits from cleanliness, solid science... I have to pass inspection.
im just wondering is 40 bucks a good deal for this incubator?
Absolutely.
You mention sanitizing the eggs, but I couldn't hear if you said "how" to sanitize them.... ? Any help would be greatly appreciated..
Just follow the instructions on TekTrol bottles. It leaves an antibacterial coating on the bees that protects them throughout incubation.
I want to learned more about this I want to have chicken farm I live in Kenya
www.amazon.com/Regarding-Chickens-Incubation-Hatching-Brooding/dp/B000K28MI0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1490126312&sr=8-1&keywords=Regarding+Chickens
Thanks
Take care
If all incubation conditions are right for your fertile eggs, there should be no need to assist the chicks during the hatching process... If they are getting "stuck" as in pipping but not completing the hatch process, consider lowering the humidity during incubation and having it increased only after the 18th day. Also consider breeding flock diet strength, there may be nutrients missing that breeding birds need.
Sir I want 5000egge.inqubatr making u give me shagastion tharmostat stating
I'm sorry to say that I don't sell incubators.
how do I know if the chicks will be hens?
You don't know that until they hatch and then only if you understand how to sex chicks.
Ok thanks
thanks I want learn more about this
I live I Kenya
Thanks
@zoughbi just go online to StrombergsChickens(dot)com and you can see current models and pricing... tell them Fred sent you! (">
So you don't add water for the first 18 days?
I personally do not... that's because our air already has high humidity and if I added water, the chicks would be too large in the egg for a proper pip and hatch to occur. When the first egg pips, I increase the humidity so the chicks don't stick to the shell lining and dry out.
Thanks. I have a 9300 Little Giant Still Air Incubator with a 6300 automatic egg turner. Anything I should know about it? I didn't change the temperature from the 99.5 preset but I did fill all the water tubes up from the beginning. First batch of 41 eggs, 3 hatched and still living.
Mary Bricker If you have the "still air" version, then 99.5 degrees is too low. Set your thermometer at the upper third of the eggs and measure 101-102 deg F. That is your setting. Still air incubators are warmer at the top and cooler at the bottom. 99.5 is only for forced air incubators.
If you don't have an incubator? Well, you could do a home made version, or, nothing on earth beats using a chicken to hatch chicks ("> sorry I don't have a better answer for you than that.
Just go to Egg Cartons dot com and check out current pricing for the little giant incubators... just tell them Fred's Fine Fowl sent you! (">
I never wash my eggs and they hatch. Also I've never seen momma hen wash her eggs and they do hatch. Why r u washing your eggs?
I wash my eggs to prevent infection. Mother hens can't wash their eggs, they also don't lay in the same nest over and over again. That's a strange comparison to be honest. The Dept. of Ag requires it in my state in order to prevent disease. Given my use of TekTrol and the success I've had for the past 24 years, I think I'll stick with my methods. If you're just going to eat the eggs, then yes, you don't have to perform sanitization.
O
Does any one know when to stop adding water in the incubator?