Bench Build series: ua-cam.com/video/EhRRcYMYLkI/v-deo.html How to Drill a Dog Hols: ua-cam.com/video/62y-Dib525c/v-deo.html Swing out seat: ua-cam.com/video/2UQ-tTDtgbU/v-deo.html Planing Stop: ua-cam.com/video/KefwKuvJEb4/v-deo.html Split in the bench: ua-cam.com/video/xDXrCBr2Lfw/v-deo.html
Build the pigeon holes for storing your shooting boards and bench hooks under the bench as you mentioned. Leave space for the holdfasts as you also mentioned. Here's the last ingredient that you're missing, make a removable cap to sit on top of the pigeonholes. It's job is to collect the dust and debris. You reach down there once a week and pull it out, take it to the garbage can, and dump the dust into the can.
No. No you don’t wish you had used a pop-up planing stop. If you had, you’d have said in this video that you wished you’d made a traditional planing stop. I had one of those exact same pop-ups on my previous bench. It worked great, EXCEPT when you try to lower it back down you have to blow out all the wood shavings that have accumulated inside. And 25% of the time they get caught in the spring so then you have to DIG THEM OUT with a nail or marking knife or whatever. I can’t count the number of times it was so bad I actually had to open the ting all the way up and pull the spring out entirely, then put it back in. It was SOOOOOO annoying. My current bench has a traditional stop - SO MUCH BETTER. It goes up, it goes down, never gets jammed up with wood shavings. Also, some other things you can use a traditional stop for: I keep my strop hanging from my bench and I just butt it up against the side of my planing stop. Very convenient. Also, I often find I need a stop without teeth with doing chisel work, like when chiseling a knife wall. I just raise the stop up higher than the wood and I can butt it up against that. It’s common for me to have that stop up high for this purpose while I keep my bench hook at the other end of the bench when I need to cut lots of boards to length.
I built a tool box. Three of the outside surfaces had french cleats that would accept tool boards that were stored on the inside when not in use. I glued on the tool holding stuff using hot melt glue. Then I started using it and improving it. It is still in works. I invested a lot of effort in the box but very little in the tool storage portion. I also made some charts of project activity vs. tool usage to get some idea about the priority of accessibility of a given tool. So per your request I suggest keep it cheap on effort until have verified the tool placement and then carve stuff on it. Its the trip not the destination.
Just a thought on the under storage on your bench, this is what I did. I ran 2 LARGE dovetail grove long ways and made about 6 dividers that I could slide in from the end, leaving them unsecured so i could tap them each direction if i wanted to change the size of the gap between them when I change what i want to change... seems to work well for me... good luck!! Love your content.
For storing things under the bench, look to kitchen pot lid and sheet pan storage for inspiration. Some 1/8" steel rod, a piece of plywood and voila, you can store as much as you want sideways.
James I think your workbench is a masterpiece, really the carvings and the live edge make this a one of a kind piece of art. Someday long after your gone this workbench will be found and those personel touches will make this so much more that just a workbench. Great job and thanks for sharing.
High there, you might want to check storage solutions at ulmia, like their swinging drawers. I guess it would be a fun project and awesome to see you build. Greetings from Germany
I wouldn't assert that my bench is perfect, but it works for me. I made it around twenty or twenty-five years ago and I haven't found it necessary to change it. The bench has a 1 1/4" thick ash top with an apron that is the same thickness and around 5" wide. It has maple trestle legs connected by four maple stretchers that are held in place by threaded rods which run through grooves in the stretchers and have washers and bolts to tighten them to the legs. I have a 4 " 10" Jorgenson face vise installed on one long side of the bench on my left. The top is nearly eight feet long and two feet long. It measures a full eight feet when you add the jaws of the full-width end vise that is on my right when I'm facing the face vise. The end vise is made from two 11/4" x 18 3/4" bench screws with two 1'3/4 thick maple jaws the bench screws are about 16" apart and are independent so the outer jaw is free to cant to hold tapered shapes. The jaws of the end vise are drilled for bench dogs and there is a row of bench dog holes running from front to back aligned with the dog on the Jorgenson vise. The top is also drilled to take three Jorgenson Pony hold-down clamps. The stretchers support two shelves. The top shelf holds my planes and the bottom shelf holds two trays and some miscellaneous bench accessories. The two vises are incredibly useful. I often clamp a stick in the end vise and use it as a stop when I'm face planing a board. The uninterrupted long edge allows me to clamp boards horizontally to the apron for edge planing or shaping. This bench continues to work wonderfully for me, the only feature that I don't often use is the three Pony hold-down clamps.
To store under the bench; I used the wire oven racks out of a kitchen stove. Tight enough to hold most things, yet derbies fall through. Also items are still visible from all sides.
0:48 Admit it, you matched your shirt to the bench dog's bow, didn't you?🐩🎀 Love the "Perfection is a direction"- attitude, James! That should be on a shirt 😁
Great video, James, thanks for your candid thoughts on your goof-ups, etc. Remember, an expert is actually just a person who has already made all the possible mistakes and learned from them. I built my current woodworking bench about 18 months ago, using Rex Krueger’s English Joiner’s Bench as the pattern. I highly recommend the design to any of your viewers who need a good bench but lack the time, space, or funds to build an “forever bench”. (As you say, such a thing doesn’t exist, perfection is a direction, not a destination!) I had to build it small because I have a very small shop. When I complete the planned construction of my new home and shop next year, I will have the space for my “forever bench”, which will probably be a variation on the Anarchist’s Workbench. Keep these videos coming! Great content, sir!
Your swing-out seat needs a coil spring on the bolt shaft. Hard to explain, but if you give the spring a full turn away from the bench before installing it on the pin, then it will help pull the seat back in to the bench.
that would be fun to find one the right size. I just leaned the mounting bracket one degree to the side and let gravity do the rest. but the spring might be fun to try.
I love seeing how others use their benches. It really shows a lot of personality and how it is used. I question "pristine" benches and just could never work that way myself. One thing I like about mine are my Noden Adjust A Bench legs. I can adjust the height up or down depending on use, aligns with my table saw for outfeetd, and let's my daughter participate in the shop a lot more. Rock solid, and you can customize them endlessly, including a shelf similar to yours on the bottom.
I hadn't seen this video on your bench, I love it! a little different than mine, mine is alternating White Oak and black walnut butcher block with a white oak apron. You have black walnut apron and is that main wood oak or walnut? I love a tool tray and it looks like one would go on your far end, you could store your bench dogs and a whole bunch of other stuff in it plus it gives you length to lay longer workpiece on it, they do collect stuff and shavings and whatnot but at least you don't have to bend over to look for tools on your lower Shelf. Look forward to showing you the one I made. Thanks, Ron
The main body of mine is white oak. I put Walnut on the outside so if I dropped a project the walnut would dent rather than the project. I'm not a big fan of tool trays I find they just end up collecting junk. As to dogs and hold fasts and other bench appliances I usually drill holes in the legs and store them in there.
Regarding storage options, an easy, temporary fix would be to get a steel file organizer like the SteelMaster, 26715MRVBK, Message Rack, 15-Compartment (learned today that if you post an amazon link to show what the product looks like, UA-cam erases your comment). I find these super handy for storing things vertically.
Yep. There's too much spamming going on so UA-cam hides the comment until the creator approves it. But most creators don't go and look through the search to see which ones need to be approved because there's so much spam to dig through to find the one or two.
I have a natural edge piece on my bench too just like yours, although mine was a necessity as it was the only piece I had left. It definitely adds character to the bench which is awesome. I think the swing out bench is going to be my next upgrade.
An alternative to drilling extra holes on 3" center is to make make some dedicated bench dogs from dowels with square or rectangular wooden heads. Ideally make the heads rectangular with a width say 4" plus the bench dog diameter by 6" plus the bench dog diameter, then offset the dowel position so it towards one corner with a 1" gap from one of the 6" sides then a 2" gap to one of the 4" sides. Then you can rotate the head position to reduce the distance between the holes by 1-4".
Those pop-up plane stops are ok, but too fragile for regular use and the mechanism fills up with dust. I'd go with the traditional setup you have for preference.
Hey James. I just had a thought. What about modifying the bench for a tool well to prevent the under bench clutter? I wouldn’t want to cover up the beautiful carving you did, but a tool well just seems to be a good solution. My defacto workbench is my table saw outfeed table, and I can’t keep junk from under mine either.
I use to use tool wells but I have found them to be more of a pain for the way I work than help. but everyone is different. in my book a tool well just tends to be a place for clutter but because that clutter is now often sticking up higher than the bench top it gets in the way. but everyone is different and some do like them.
James, the pop-up stop is rather brittle. I've broken the movable part clean off of one just from planing forces and bent the pin on a second from the same forces. They are great, but would be way better if made of stainless and not zinc plated iron.
Great review James, thanks! I did the same with my holdfasts, just drilled holes in the legs and they stay out of the way. I bought the planing stop from Tools for Working Wood and actually just bolted it in the end of the bench…unscrew it and flip it upside down when not in use so no mallet needed. One thing I added to my bench that I LOVE is a tool board. It’s got a pencil tray, slots that my jointery saws, chisels, and squares can go in, and a dish-out for some smaller hand planes. It’s not for everyone because it eliminates the ability to overhang both front and back but that’s ok. It keeps my tools at hand AND organized. Any chance we might get an update on Sarah’s bench after a few months of use?
she has not had much of a chance to use it. as it has been mostly a horizontal surface for the chairs, but hopefully mid Oct. She will have a chance to do a few projects on it.
For the under-bench storage, what if you made flip-up/down dividers? They could lay flat when you don't want them and stand up when you do. Divider number, height, and spacing would be interdependent, but you could have some flexibility by having them lay in different directions. You could also layer them, having smaller ones available to pop up under larger ones that are usually on top.
Ha! Just this evening I doubled the number of dog holes in a line that was 6 inches on center for all the reasons you did. Have never seen those Lee Valley pop up stops, there are a couple uf thse in my bench’s future. Stu
Can't recommend AGAINST the pop-up stops enough. I bent the screw on mine just from the force of normal planing. Ended up removing it and plugging the hole
3:30 just off the top of my head, here's my idea: drill a bunch of holes in a plywood board so you could stick in 1/2 inch dowels. Have the dowels face upwards and they'll hold your bench hook upright without taking much vertical space, and it's also modular.
For the storage rack under the bench, my thoughts would be to slope the base of the rack towards the rear (our perspective front) and make the racks wide enough that you can remove the contents and push a stick or brush through to clean out the sawdust, chips, shavings. If you find you need a backstop on the rack, leave a small gap, 20 - 25mm, at the bottom to allow the clean out. Hopefully most of the crud will work it's way to the back, down the slope and 'self-clean' to a degree meaning less time cleaning. Also drill yet more holes on the bottom shelf so you can make use of the space under the rack that will also 'self-clean'. Also, the 'rise' would mean less bending to reach the tools. Just make sure the verticle panels of the rack are positioned between the dog holes so the holdfasts dont impact the rack, and make sure the higher tools (bench hook, shooting board) aren't in the way of the most used dog holes.
I made a wagonvise and to minimize the amount of travel I need between the dogholes I put two holes in the clampingpart of the wagonvise instead of more holes in the benchtop. I'm really happy with this solution because I'm afraid of more holes in my bench 🤣
James I know flattening videos are prolific but I hope you'll share yet again when you get around to flattening your bench. I wonder what kind of twists (pun intended) and fresh information you can come up with?
I have to admit that I've had most fun making improvements to my 'shop rather than repairing or making stuff. I thought I might be odd, but no, it seems it's normal! I must post a picture of my plane till in the Hive Mind, it's nothing fancy, but I was inspired to keep them all together and make a 'display' after seeing yours and some others.
This one came from an old school that was selling off equipment. They were mounted on chemistry tables. You can get new ones from bench crafted though.
Thanks for the heads up, I have a slide out work surface underneath my bench it would be handy to plan projects with a stool right there, plus nice to take a breather after several hours at the bench
How about building removable square/rectangle cabinets that fit the space below. Some with shelves, drawers, and or cabinets. If you make them removable you can change them out when you need to.
I have never really liked cabinets or drawers underneath the bench. I found them to get in the way more often than not. Not to mention you have to put them down away so the hold fast. It doesn't hit them. But that's just a personal preference for me. A lot of people love them
For under bench storage, maybe add some hooks on the insides of the legs and add tight fitted net that's closer towards the top to assist with reaching tools stored on it. Having it tight will keep it from tangling and hopefully not knock all your tools together. Holes in the net will let dust and chips fall through. Being on hooks can allow you to remove it without too much damage to your bench if you don't want it at the time or not like it all together. Just a thought, I'm sure there's some things that won't be perfect about it.
I thought about it. But it would take a lot of modifications to fit this bench. Somebody in the future I'll probably build another bench and that has a high chance of being on there.
Storage: Flip up dividers, like a boat centreboard only upside down, stiff so they stay put. My most used upgrade, nothing, its perfect, I do wish I had not bothered with the bench jack, its ALWAYS in the way except when I actully use it. O wait a bigger workshop, that would improve my bench; I use my bench slave a lot, does that count?. Love the show.
This is very timely. Not yet ready to do the Moravian bench, but likely the English Joiners (Nicholson's?) Bench. Also got a copy of The Workbench Book by Scott Landis, so going through that as well.
totally Replaced the top of my bench mainly because I hate hate bench dog holes. They are just a place where sawdust goes to die. Replaced them with rectangular dogs that pop up ala Rob Cosman’s workbench and a wagon vice at the end of the bench. Because the rectangular dogs are resident in the dog holes… no sawdust gets in. You push them up from under the bench. See john Hiseman’s (sp) workbench video for plans and ideas.
I use to work on a bench with those. and I much prefer the round holes to pop up square dogs. Just personal preference. round ones just give far more options that I use quite often. and they work better with holdfasts that I use every day.
Im SUBSCRIBING in , it is obvious that You do what You like , not just cleaning the toys (Im master patern maker since 1980 do cabinet work , timber framing , name it) I love to see when dust is accumulated in crannies but I also love Festool. Nice job !!!
@@WoodByWrightHowTo It is about to build model of object , design by industrial designer (who is usually full of it) in scary tolerances, that must withstand all kind of abuse in foundry (wet sand , high pressure, lifting by crane, hammering ) by half whited laborers , armed by jackhammers etc ....... and don't get mad when it is returned to you for repair and adjustments, because some sh..head left it outside shed whole winter expose to elements and company need couple of casts like NOW !!😂
Thanks for posting this!! I’ve been putting off my bench build for too long! I’m curious if you’ve ever considered a crochet? The little hook thing on the skirt of the bench top. Chris Schwarz talks about that a good bit.
Awesome tips, James! Thanks a lot! 😃 About the space under the workbench I guess some thin plywood spacers would be perfect for you. Now, about the design... Well, you can go as crazy as you want with it! 😂 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
i put a drawer under the top where i work at a lot. so i can put the tools for the job i am doing. it stops the looking for a tool i sat down ,and forgot were i laid the tool.
Planing stop in my bench: blackbearforge.com/2014/03/07/planing-stop/ pop up version: www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/workshop/workbenches/benchtop-accessories/31148-mortised-bench-stop?item=99G0101
If I have it all the way out it needs about 250lb to start tipping the bench. But most of the time I am leaning over the bench working on something small.
I'm building my first bench, a Moravian, and am just on the brink of drilling a bunch of dog holes. I would like to chamfer them and have been looking for a bit like the one you use here. If I drill 3/4" holes what size chamfer bit do I need? Any tips on where to find them? Thanks!!
Usually for holes that big a chamfer them with a chisel. I'll use a beveled down and run around the hole. Just make sure you're going with the grain at each given quarter of the hole. But if you want to use a countersink it would have to be a pretty big countersink. You usually something with a diameter of at least an inch.
If I swing it all the way out, I have to be careful not to bounce on the seat. But most the time it's in a little ways and it doesn't have quite enough leverage. I guess I could just add more weight to my bench.
I tried pop up stops and soon regretted it. They fill up with dust and crud,needed regular vacuuming😥 I ended up covering with gaffer tape when not in use. Good luck
I can confirm that, I had one in my bench for around 10 years. They seem to attract dust and Chipping’s then gradually work their way up above the surface and randomly take chunks out of your work. Please don’t ask how I know this.
Just boiled linseed oil and paste wax and hundreds and hundreds of coats from other finishes and glues over the years. Every now and then I scrape off the top and let another few coats build up.
I don't see the need for holdfast that would stick below your bench far enough to interfere with two shallow drawers. I have three under mine and the hold fasts are no problem
if I am working on 3/4" stock the hold fast sticks down 8" that gives me enough to work on 6" thick stock on top of the bench which I have done several times for carving and other odd clamping setups.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo and how much room does that leave under the bench? Lol that's my point make a couple drawers that don't stop short of the underside of the bench
You didn't list the popup stop in the description. I've seen multiple versions around. Do you have a favorite? PS: timely video, I drilled new holes in my bench today... didn't like my holdfasts sticking out the front....
Oh yes thank you. here is the one in my bench. blackbearforge.com/2014/03/07/planing-stop/ and here is the pop up version: www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/workshop/workbenches/benchtop-accessories/31148-mortised-bench-stop?item=99G0101
For a lot of people that's a pretty big bench. I know a few people who work on a benchtop that's 18 in by 18 in. It all depends on the space you have and the projects you want to make.
I haven't built a bench yet for a lot of reasons that are ultimately just me being a procrastinator, but the one thing I worry the most about when I think about what design I want to use is racking strength. I've done a lot of stupid things in my life and I have no reason to suspect I won't do stupid things in the future, so whatever I make needs to be as close to a L5' x W2' x H3' block of wood as possible. xD Is putting 45° Angle Brackets between Mortise & Tenon'd legs and the table top helpful at all? I get that it'd be overkill, but I want overkill if it'd actually provide extra support.
it all depends on the size of the M+T on my bench it would just be over kill. if I set my bench on two legs and put weight on it corner to corner it would take several hundred to a thousand pounds to show visible racking. if you are working with a top and legs that are 3" or thicker there is no need for cross bracing.
You mentioned that your bench is slightly warped in a recent video. Any plans to flatten it? It would be cool to see you doing it. Maybe a live stream.
Planing stop in my bench: blackbearforge.com/2014/03/07/planing-stop/ pop up version: www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/workshop/workbenches/benchtop-accessories/31148-mortised-bench-stop?item=99G0101
> that would be just a hipster table Like your average F-150 wide body in the Bay Area that's never been dirty or off-road, had anything hitched to the back of it, or had anything in the bed that might scratch it.
I will make one majore critics : 1" dog eyes is much too big, the proportions are not right for what looks like 5-6" dog. Seriously, that looks really weird !!!
Bench Build series: ua-cam.com/video/EhRRcYMYLkI/v-deo.html
How to Drill a Dog Hols: ua-cam.com/video/62y-Dib525c/v-deo.html
Swing out seat: ua-cam.com/video/2UQ-tTDtgbU/v-deo.html
Planing Stop: ua-cam.com/video/KefwKuvJEb4/v-deo.html
Split in the bench: ua-cam.com/video/xDXrCBr2Lfw/v-deo.html
Thanks for the tour! The personalized carving is a great touch. The bench doesn't have defects it has character.
Build the pigeon holes for storing your shooting boards and bench hooks under the bench as you mentioned.
Leave space for the holdfasts as you also mentioned.
Here's the last ingredient that you're missing, make a removable cap to sit on top of the pigeonholes. It's job is to collect the dust and debris. You reach down there once a week and pull it out, take it to the garbage can, and dump the dust into the can.
I love the workbench James. It looks like a bench that is actually used to build.
No. No you don’t wish you had used a pop-up planing stop. If you had, you’d have said in this video that you wished you’d made a traditional planing stop. I had one of those exact same pop-ups on my previous bench. It worked great, EXCEPT when you try to lower it back down you have to blow out all the wood shavings that have accumulated inside. And 25% of the time they get caught in the spring so then you have to DIG THEM OUT with a nail or marking knife or whatever. I can’t count the number of times it was so bad I actually had to open the ting all the way up and pull the spring out entirely, then put it back in. It was SOOOOOO annoying. My current bench has a traditional stop - SO MUCH BETTER. It goes up, it goes down, never gets jammed up with wood shavings.
Also, some other things you can use a traditional stop for: I keep my strop hanging from my bench and I just butt it up against the side of my planing stop. Very convenient. Also, I often find I need a stop without teeth with doing chisel work, like when chiseling a knife wall. I just raise the stop up higher than the wood and I can butt it up against that. It’s common for me to have that stop up high for this purpose while I keep my bench hook at the other end of the bench when I need to cut lots of boards to length.
J
I built a tool box. Three of the outside surfaces had french cleats that would accept tool boards that were stored on the inside when not in use. I glued on the tool holding stuff using hot melt glue. Then I started using it and improving it. It is still in works. I invested a lot of effort in the box but very little in the tool storage portion. I also made some charts of project activity vs. tool usage to get some idea about the priority of accessibility of a given tool. So per your request I suggest keep it cheap on effort until have verified the tool placement and then carve stuff on it. Its the trip not the destination.
Glad the wood bolts worked great for your beautiful bench
Just a thought on the under storage on your bench, this is what I did. I ran 2 LARGE dovetail grove long ways and made about 6 dividers that I could slide in from the end, leaving them unsecured so i could tap them each direction if i wanted to change the size of the gap between them when I change what i want to change... seems to work well for me... good luck!! Love your content.
For storing things under the bench, look to kitchen pot lid and sheet pan storage for inspiration. Some 1/8" steel rod, a piece of plywood and voila, you can store as much as you want sideways.
Cannot articulate how much I appreciate you, James. Thank you.
James I think your workbench is a masterpiece, really the carvings and the live edge make this a one of a kind piece of art. Someday long after your gone this workbench will be found and those personel touches will make this so much more that just a workbench. Great job and thanks for sharing.
The bench seat "OMG"... I want two, one on each side !!
High there, you might want to check storage solutions at ulmia, like their swinging drawers. I guess it would be a fun project and awesome to see you build. Greetings from Germany
I wouldn't assert that my bench is perfect, but it works for me. I made it around twenty or twenty-five years ago and I haven't found it necessary to change it. The bench has a 1 1/4" thick ash top with an apron that is the same thickness and around 5" wide. It has maple trestle legs connected by four maple stretchers that are held in place by threaded rods which run through grooves in the stretchers and have washers and bolts to tighten them to the legs. I have a 4 " 10" Jorgenson face vise installed on one long side of the bench on my left. The top is nearly eight feet long and two feet long. It measures a full eight feet when you add the jaws of the full-width end vise that is on my right when I'm facing the face vise. The end vise is made from two 11/4" x 18 3/4" bench screws with two 1'3/4 thick maple jaws the bench screws are about 16" apart and are independent so the outer jaw is free to cant to hold tapered shapes. The jaws of the end vise are drilled for bench dogs and there is a row of bench dog holes running from front to back aligned with the dog on the Jorgenson vise. The top is also drilled to take three Jorgenson Pony hold-down clamps. The stretchers support two shelves. The top shelf holds my planes and the bottom shelf holds two trays and some miscellaneous bench accessories. The two vises are incredibly useful. I often clamp a stick in the end vise and use it as a stop when I'm face planing a board. The uninterrupted long edge allows me to clamp boards horizontally to the apron for edge planing or shaping. This bench continues to work wonderfully for me, the only feature that I don't often use is the three Pony hold-down clamps.
To store under the bench; I used the wire oven racks out of a kitchen stove. Tight enough to hold most things, yet derbies fall through. Also items are still visible from all sides.
0:48 Admit it, you matched your shirt to the bench dog's bow, didn't you?🐩🎀
Love the "Perfection is a direction"- attitude, James! That should be on a shirt 😁
Great video, James, thanks for your candid thoughts on your goof-ups, etc. Remember, an expert is actually just a person who has already made all the possible mistakes and learned from them.
I built my current woodworking bench about 18 months ago, using Rex Krueger’s English Joiner’s Bench as the pattern. I highly recommend the design to any of your viewers who need a good bench but lack the time, space, or funds to build an “forever bench”. (As you say, such a thing doesn’t exist, perfection is a direction, not a destination!) I had to build it small because I have a very small shop. When I complete the planned construction of my new home and shop next year, I will have the space for my “forever bench”, which will probably be a variation on the Anarchist’s Workbench.
Keep these videos coming! Great content, sir!
Your swing-out seat needs a coil spring on the bolt shaft. Hard to explain, but if you give the spring a full turn away from the bench before installing it on the pin, then it will help pull the seat back in to the bench.
that would be fun to find one the right size. I just leaned the mounting bracket one degree to the side and let gravity do the rest. but the spring might be fun to try.
I love seeing how others use their benches. It really shows a lot of personality and how it is used. I question "pristine" benches and just could never work that way myself. One thing I like about mine are my Noden Adjust A Bench legs. I can adjust the height up or down depending on use, aligns with my table saw for outfeetd, and let's my daughter participate in the shop a lot more. Rock solid, and you can customize them endlessly, including a shelf similar to yours on the bottom.
I hadn't seen this video on your bench, I love it!
a little different than mine, mine is alternating White Oak and black walnut butcher block with a white oak apron. You have black walnut apron and is that main wood oak or walnut? I love a tool tray and it looks like one would go on your far end, you could store your bench dogs and a whole bunch of other stuff in it plus it gives you length to lay longer workpiece on it, they do collect stuff and shavings and whatnot but at least you don't have to bend over to look for tools on your lower Shelf. Look forward to showing you the one I made.
Thanks, Ron
The main body of mine is white oak. I put Walnut on the outside so if I dropped a project the walnut would dent rather than the project. I'm not a big fan of tool trays I find they just end up collecting junk. As to dogs and hold fasts and other bench appliances I usually drill holes in the legs and store them in there.
Regarding storage options, an easy, temporary fix would be to get a steel file organizer like the SteelMaster, 26715MRVBK, Message Rack, 15-Compartment (learned today that if you post an amazon link to show what the product looks like, UA-cam erases your comment). I find these super handy for storing things vertically.
Yep. There's too much spamming going on so UA-cam hides the comment until the creator approves it. But most creators don't go and look through the search to see which ones need to be approved because there's so much spam to dig through to find the one or two.
I have a natural edge piece on my bench too just like yours, although mine was a necessity as it was the only piece I had left. It definitely adds character to the bench which is awesome. I think the swing out bench is going to be my next upgrade.
An alternative to drilling extra holes on 3" center is to make make some dedicated bench dogs from dowels with square or rectangular wooden heads.
Ideally make the heads rectangular with a width say 4" plus the bench dog diameter by 6" plus the bench dog diameter, then offset the dowel position so it towards one corner with a 1" gap from one of the 6" sides then a 2" gap to one of the 4" sides.
Then you can rotate the head position to reduce the distance between the holes by 1-4".
This is the solution I arrived at as well.
Those pop-up plane stops are ok, but too fragile for regular use and the mechanism fills up with dust. I'd go with the traditional setup you have for preference.
I took my stop out after a month & switched back to the traditional one. It was always filling up wit dust
Hey James. I just had a thought. What about modifying the bench for a tool well to prevent the under bench clutter? I wouldn’t want to cover up the beautiful carving you did, but a tool well just seems to be a good solution. My defacto workbench is my table saw outfeed table, and I can’t keep junk from under mine either.
I use to use tool wells but I have found them to be more of a pain for the way I work than help. but everyone is different. in my book a tool well just tends to be a place for clutter but because that clutter is now often sticking up higher than the bench top it gets in the way. but everyone is different and some do like them.
James, the pop-up stop is rather brittle. I've broken the movable part clean off of one just from planing forces and bent the pin on a second from the same forces. They are great, but would be way better if made of stainless and not zinc plated iron.
Great review James, thanks! I did the same with my holdfasts, just drilled holes in the legs and they stay out of the way. I bought the planing stop from Tools for Working Wood and actually just bolted it in the end of the bench…unscrew it and flip it upside down when not in use so no mallet needed. One thing I added to my bench that I LOVE is a tool board. It’s got a pencil tray, slots that my jointery saws, chisels, and squares can go in, and a dish-out for some smaller hand planes. It’s not for everyone because it eliminates the ability to overhang both front and back but that’s ok. It keeps my tools at hand AND organized.
Any chance we might get an update on Sarah’s bench after a few months of use?
she has not had much of a chance to use it. as it has been mostly a horizontal surface for the chairs, but hopefully mid Oct. She will have a chance to do a few projects on it.
As I'm still building my bench, I appreciate the insight
For the under-bench storage, what if you made flip-up/down dividers? They could lay flat when you don't want them and stand up when you do. Divider number, height, and spacing would be interdependent, but you could have some flexibility by having them lay in different directions. You could also layer them, having smaller ones available to pop up under larger ones that are usually on top.
But James where is the rack to hold the wrights to bench press
Ha! Just this evening I doubled the number of dog holes in a line that was 6 inches on center for all the reasons you did. Have never seen those Lee Valley pop up stops, there are a couple uf thse in my bench’s future. Stu
Can't recommend AGAINST the pop-up stops enough. I bent the screw on mine just from the force of normal planing. Ended up removing it and plugging the hole
So interesting to watch! I love my workbench as well.
3:30 just off the top of my head, here's my idea: drill a bunch of holes in a plywood board so you could stick in 1/2 inch dowels. Have the dowels face upwards and they'll hold your bench hook upright without taking much vertical space, and it's also modular.
I think that is the rout I am leaning but that shelf is just 1/4" thick solid wood. I would have to add a substructure to it.
James if your still thinking about changing out your end vise I want first dibs on buying you end vise
05:52 JAMES!! Where's the _'perpendicular ring'_ ?
i only use it if it needs to be prefect.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo _understood_
For the storage rack under the bench, my thoughts would be to slope the base of the rack towards the rear (our perspective front) and make the racks wide enough that you can remove the contents and push a stick or brush through to clean out the sawdust, chips, shavings.
If you find you need a backstop on the rack, leave a small gap, 20 - 25mm, at the bottom to allow the clean out. Hopefully most of the crud will work it's way to the back, down the slope and 'self-clean' to a degree meaning less time cleaning. Also drill yet more holes on the bottom shelf so you can make use of the space under the rack that will also 'self-clean'.
Also, the 'rise' would mean less bending to reach the tools.
Just make sure the verticle panels of the rack are positioned between the dog holes so the holdfasts dont impact the rack, and make sure the higher tools (bench hook, shooting board) aren't in the way of the most used dog holes.
I made a wagonvise and to minimize the amount of travel I need between the dogholes I put two holes in the clampingpart of the wagonvise instead of more holes in the benchtop. I'm really happy with this solution because I'm afraid of more holes in my bench 🤣
I actually just finished my first bench ever this last weekend so this video is perfectly timed for me! Thanks for all you do!
James I know flattening videos are prolific but I hope you'll share yet again when you get around to flattening your bench. I wonder what kind of twists (pun intended) and fresh information you can come up with?
I have to admit that I've had most fun making improvements to my 'shop rather than repairing or making stuff. I thought I might be odd, but no, it seems it's normal! I must post a picture of my plane till in the Hive Mind, it's nothing fancy, but I was inspired to keep them all together and make a 'display' after seeing yours and some others.
Always gotta have plenty of speed holes in any good bench
I love your swing out stool! Where can I get one of those?
Ron
This one came from an old school that was selling off equipment. They were mounted on chemistry tables. You can get new ones from bench crafted though.
Thanks for the heads up, I have a slide out work surface underneath my bench it would be handy to plan projects with a stool right there, plus nice to take a breather after several hours at the bench
03:53 Is that VISE GRIP from IRWIN?
How about building removable square/rectangle cabinets that fit the space below. Some with shelves, drawers, and or cabinets. If you make them removable you can change them out when you need to.
I have never really liked cabinets or drawers underneath the bench. I found them to get in the way more often than not. Not to mention you have to put them down away so the hold fast. It doesn't hit them. But that's just a personal preference for me. A lot of people love them
For under bench storage, maybe add some hooks on the insides of the legs and add tight fitted net that's closer towards the top to assist with reaching tools stored on it. Having it tight will keep it from tangling and hopefully not knock all your tools together. Holes in the net will let dust and chips fall through. Being on hooks can allow you to remove it without too much damage to your bench if you don't want it at the time or not like it all together. Just a thought, I'm sure there's some things that won't be perfect about it.
that is an interesting idea!
to see you know your way around a bench!
Yes I do. As well as a full build series and videos. You can find the plans at woodbywright.com/shop
Changing up that vise for....and Andrew Klein twin turbo?????
I thought about it. But it would take a lot of modifications to fit this bench. Somebody in the future I'll probably build another bench and that has a high chance of being on there.
Storage: Flip up dividers, like a boat centreboard only upside down, stiff so they stay put. My most used upgrade, nothing, its perfect, I do wish I had not bothered with the bench jack, its ALWAYS in the way except when I actully use it. O wait a bigger workshop, that would improve my bench; I use my bench slave a lot, does that count?. Love the show.
07:07 Beautiful it is indeed.. but we all wanna know how Mr. Wright did these ornaments. _[hand carved ? No freaking way..]_
here is the video doing it. ua-cam.com/video/u4Q8gXXfvXs/v-deo.html
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Holy smoke, James. I tip my hat.. I'd fail miserably just carving a circle. Hm.. maybe I should give it a try..
This is very timely. Not yet ready to do the Moravian bench, but likely the English Joiners (Nicholson's?) Bench. Also got a copy of The Workbench Book by Scott Landis, so going through that as well.
The perfect bench is always the next bench.
Also reported 1 spammer.
Now I want a swing out bench on my seat, too.
totally Replaced the top of my bench mainly because I hate hate bench dog holes. They are just a place where sawdust goes to die. Replaced them with rectangular dogs that pop up ala Rob Cosman’s workbench and a wagon vice at the end of the bench. Because the rectangular dogs are resident in the dog holes… no sawdust gets in. You push them up from under the bench. See john Hiseman’s (sp) workbench video for plans and ideas.
I use to work on a bench with those. and I much prefer the round holes to pop up square dogs. Just personal preference. round ones just give far more options that I use quite often. and they work better with holdfasts that I use every day.
Drill Holes! Make it more of a bench by making it less of a bench. In seriousness though, the best part of it is to make it yours.
How about a second level, open shelf, i.e., slats or dowels? You can then slide things in vertically, or even hang a few things.
That's one of the thoughts. I just have to make it low enough that the hold fasts don't hit it.
Could it be off set, so that the hold fasts miss it?
Ya know...a person could learn a lot from listening to you! 😂❣️
Im SUBSCRIBING in , it is obvious that You do what You like , not just cleaning the toys (Im master patern maker since 1980 do cabinet work , timber framing , name it) I love to see when dust is accumulated in crannies but I also love Festool. Nice job !!!
Thanks. Pattern maker? That is one field I would like to play with.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo It is about to build model of object , design by industrial designer (who is usually full of it) in scary tolerances, that must withstand all kind of abuse in foundry (wet sand , high pressure, lifting by crane, hammering ) by half whited laborers , armed by jackhammers etc ....... and don't get mad when it is returned to you for repair and adjustments, because some sh..head left it outside shed whole winter expose to elements and company need couple of casts like NOW !!😂
See, and now you have me wanting to rebuild my own bench...
Thanks for posting this!! I’ve been putting off my bench build for too long! I’m curious if you’ve ever considered a crochet? The little hook thing on the skirt of the bench top. Chris Schwarz talks about that a good bit.
He already had a face vise (or two, I believe) so a crochet isn’t necessary.
I have used them in the past and they are great for someone that likes working on a viceless bench, but I prefer working with vices.
Awesome tips, James! Thanks a lot! 😃
About the space under the workbench I guess some thin plywood spacers would be perfect for you. Now, about the design... Well, you can go as crazy as you want with it! 😂
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
i put a drawer under the top where i work at a lot. so i can put the tools for the job i am doing. it stops the looking for a tool i sat down ,and forgot were i laid the tool.
Planing stop in my bench: blackbearforge.com/2014/03/07/planing-stop/
pop up version: www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/workshop/workbenches/benchtop-accessories/31148-mortised-bench-stop?item=99G0101
How much weight will the seat take before the table tips?
If I have it all the way out it needs about 250lb to start tipping the bench. But most of the time I am leaning over the bench working on something small.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thanks, certainly something to think about on the narrow side of the bench
I'm building my first bench, a Moravian, and am just on the brink of drilling a bunch of dog holes. I would like to chamfer them and have been looking for a bit like the one you use here. If I drill 3/4" holes what size chamfer bit do I need? Any tips on where to find them? Thanks!!
Usually for holes that big a chamfer them with a chisel. I'll use a beveled down and run around the hole. Just make sure you're going with the grain at each given quarter of the hole. But if you want to use a countersink it would have to be a pretty big countersink. You usually something with a diameter of at least an inch.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thank you!!
Does it tend to tip the bench over? Thanks
If I swing it all the way out, I have to be careful not to bounce on the seat. But most the time it's in a little ways and it doesn't have quite enough leverage. I guess I could just add more weight to my bench.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thanks James 💚
I tried pop up stops and soon regretted it. They fill up with dust and crud,needed regular vacuuming😥 I ended up covering with gaffer tape when not in use. Good luck
I can confirm that, I had one in my bench for around 10 years. They seem to attract dust and Chipping’s then gradually work their way up above the surface and randomly take chunks out of your work. Please don’t ask how I know this.
What finish do u have on your bench? I love the patina it has
Just boiled linseed oil and paste wax and hundreds and hundreds of coats from other finishes and glues over the years. Every now and then I scrape off the top and let another few coats build up.
4:04 Nah. That looks dorky. Hmm. I would make a swing out rack to store them on. Kind of like your bench seat.
Wooden bolts seems to complicated, I used a couple of dowels at opposing angles.
Hi James, what timber is your bench top made from?
the edge is walnut the top is White oak
@WoodByWrightHowTo thanks, with all that patina on there built up over the years I couldn't even guess! Love the warmth of its colour
I don't see the need for holdfast that would stick below your bench far enough to interfere with two shallow drawers. I have three under mine and the hold fasts are no problem
if I am working on 3/4" stock the hold fast sticks down 8" that gives me enough to work on 6" thick stock on top of the bench which I have done several times for carving and other odd clamping setups.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo and how much room does that leave under the bench? Lol that's my point make a couple drawers that don't stop short of the underside of the bench
what do you use for wood species?
Almost all white oak except for the front and back skirt are walnut.
Thank you Sir 🎉
*What's the name of that pet sitting there?*
are you talking about the small dog? that is bench dog.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Ah.. I see
You didn't list the popup stop in the description. I've seen multiple versions around. Do you have a favorite? PS: timely video, I drilled new holes in my bench today... didn't like my holdfasts sticking out the front....
Oh yes thank you. here is the one in my bench. blackbearforge.com/2014/03/07/planing-stop/
and here is the pop up version: www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/workshop/workbenches/benchtop-accessories/31148-mortised-bench-stop?item=99G0101
What size bench is too small? I was thinking about making a 3.3-4’ X 3’ bench.
For a lot of people that's a pretty big bench. I know a few people who work on a benchtop that's 18 in by 18 in. It all depends on the space you have and the projects you want to make.
So I shouldn’t get too bent out of shape because it’s not as 5-8 feet long. @@WoodByWrightHowTo
yup. I generally am only using about 2' of m bench.
Where did you get the pop-up plane stop?
Maaaaan, I need to add swingout bench to my seat too
Instead of drilling more holes why can't you just insert a spacer between the existing hole and the work?
That creates a henge that often causes the work to pop up. And it can be difficult with thin stock.
I haven't built a bench yet for a lot of reasons that are ultimately just me being a procrastinator, but the one thing I worry the most about when I think about what design I want to use is racking strength. I've done a lot of stupid things in my life and I have no reason to suspect I won't do stupid things in the future, so whatever I make needs to be as close to a L5' x W2' x H3' block of wood as possible. xD Is putting 45° Angle Brackets between Mortise & Tenon'd legs and the table top helpful at all? I get that it'd be overkill, but I want overkill if it'd actually provide extra support.
it all depends on the size of the M+T on my bench it would just be over kill. if I set my bench on two legs and put weight on it corner to corner it would take several hundred to a thousand pounds to show visible racking. if you are working with a top and legs that are 3" or thicker there is no need for cross bracing.
You mentioned that your bench is slightly warped in a recent video. Any plans to flatten it? It would be cool to see you doing it. Maybe a live stream.
I did a bench top flattening video a few months ago. I think I have done that one 3 times now. but I have not done it live. That would be interesting!
Thanks
I just love your bench, it looks not only functional but really cool too. Do you have plans?
where can i get plane stops?
Planing stop in my bench: blackbearforge.com/2014/03/07/planing-stop/
pop up version: www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/workshop/workbenches/benchtop-accessories/31148-mortised-bench-stop?item=99G0101
If you decide to get a new end vise, auction off the old one & donate the proceeds to your favorite charity.
Didn't you say yesterday that a bench wasn't a tool? Now it's a tool? Make up your mind Cybil! 🤣
Your bench is 'blessed' with holes and is therefore Holy....
ATTENTION KNIGHTS - i want to point out that just after the 9 min mark james said it was a tool!! looks like i might have just won the dabate
I missed that but you are correct! Rewind the tape!
Perhaps a benchdog house … 🤔?
Odd, I just leave the bench dogs in their holes bench in the top of the bench.
Hello hello my amazing friend
Congrats on first again.
At least you haven't been benchwd
A "pristine quality" workbench is not a real workbench, that would be just a hipster table
> that would be just a hipster table
Like your average F-150 wide body in the Bay Area that's never been dirty or off-road, had anything hitched to the back of it, or had anything in the bed that might scratch it.
A lot of soft fingers are going to angrily twist their mustaches at this comment. :P
98th.
I will make one majore critics : 1" dog eyes is much too big, the proportions are not right for what looks like 5-6" dog. Seriously, that looks really weird !!!
These are all 3/4"
@@WoodByWrightHowTo did you really measure them ?
I drilled with a 3/4" bit. all of my dogs and dog hole accessories are 3/4" and all of my holdfasts are 3/4"
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I was joking about the stuffed dog's eyes, was not about a the bench ;c)