You know what else is nice? When they pick a test knitter at the upper range so we can see what it actually looks like in those sizes. Perhaps that’s not available to all designers, but it’s so nice. I know that some of us in the upper size ranges feel like, since we’re often lucky to find ones I like that will fit us in the first place, we should just be grateful for that and not hope for more. Which is an entirely separate discussion. But when I see test knits that look like they’d fit me, that’s often the deciding factor in whether or not to get a pattern I might have been on the fence about. Thank you so much for another amazing video, always a bright spot in my week!
I remember almost crying when I received The Shetland Trader, Book Three: Heritage by Gudrun Johnston. I was so in love with all the patterns and I could actually knit ALL of them in my size. It felt unreal to me. All these gorgeous patterns and I could just make them for myself? I adore this book! It's so beautiful, so well made, so detailed... I can't wait to make the Vair jumper, once I can finally make up my mind on the colours :)
Vanessa Smith is a delightful designer who is going back through her catalog to ensure that every pattern is size inclusive. I was lucky enough to test knit her Nydia sweater and it is one of my absolute favorites, plus she was a delight to work with. I'm at the high end of plus size and even for accessories I've started checking the designer's garment patterns for inclusivity before paying for an accessory pattern because I just don't need to support designers who don't support me. Life is too short for that nonsense.
So happy to see someone else talking about this. Making a garment already requires a lot of time, materials and money. Making a plus size garment requires a bit more of all those things. I shouldn't have to look at a pattern and do a ridiculous amount of math and wishful thinking on top of all that. I do have a challenge for anyone that doesn't think this is an actual issue. Type fat crochet into any search engine.... now tell me why it's all patterns for how to make a fat stuffed cat and none on how to make plus size clothing 🙃
I think there’s always an element of customisation to any handmade garment, for me its the joy of hand making. I have long arms as i am tall so i can just knit longer arms. But there is something quite joyful in reading “if you need to knit a longer size, add bonus rows in place x or y”. I’m not expecting a pattern designer to have made a pattern that fits “out the box” as it were for every shape, but a good indication if where you might want to make your edits is a great way to make something size inclusive in more ways than chest fit! For me… I’d expect a paid for pattern to be size inclusive. But a free pattern I see a lot of one size and make your own edits (and to be fair, you havent paid for it). I know if I made a jumper pattern for myself and wanted to share, I’m not in a place to be grading or paying people to help me so I’d likely release it with the caveat of “it fits me only, go wild with your edits”.
Thanks so much for this video! I love Tin Can Knits, Skeinanigans, Tellybeanknits, Aroha Knits, and Marcela Chang Knits just to name a few of the size inclusive designers I can think of. This has been a good healthy conversation that the knitting community is still having and it is important for us to vote with our wallets for the things we want to see. Interestingly, this same problem exists in sewing patterns. The big fashion house pattern designers have a very small size range that is based on an average B cup measurement. As someone who is an F cup, I have always had to do large bust adjustments until more recently when indie pattern designers have started having these built in. For sewing I absolutely recommend Cashmerette as they have tons of beautiful sewing designs, tips on sizing, and they modify for some other larger body differences such as different back neck sloping, hips, etc. I know you didn't ask for sewing, but in case someone dabbles in the dark side as I do. lol
as someone who is plus size I no longer accept or buy patterns that don't fit me - that I have to try to make fit. I am not a clothes designer and resent the anxiety spent on trying to make something made with expensive wool fit me..... I very much want nice patterns in my size and don't see why I can't have it as I am not the biggest person in the world - nor do I eat like a glutton
As someone who's a size 22ish & also a knitwear designer, I can see both sides of this issue. Most designers don't sell enough patterns to make a living. Grading sweaters to a large range of sizes costs money in designer time & tech editing & many designers don't ever make enough money to cover those costs. Which is why I rarely self-publish sweater patterns. I am aiming to change that this year though. As for magazines, personally I will limit the number of sizes I include according to how much I'm paid. If a magazine pay me more I'll include more sizes. I do agree that for designers with tens or hundreds of thousands of followers there's no excuse as they presumably make more money. But most designers don't make a living as it is.
Thank you so much for making this post. Nothing is as demoralizing as seeing a sweater I think I would love to make to only then check and see that I would have to spend many extra hours to figure out how to size it up for myself
Thank you for talking about this, it's so frustrating to hear knitters that I've been following for years be so nonchalant about it and say things like "oh well my life is stressful and I will find stress relief in whatever pattern I want to wear" and it's like wow you came so close to understanding why it's important for everyone to be able to enjoy doing the same. Everybody and every BODY should be included as much as feasible, especially when designers are big and can afford it.
I'm so sorry I haven't seen this until now, but THANK YOU so much for sharing my videos!!! I'm so happy you're having a chat about the importance of size-inclusivity ❤
An important thing to remember is that math alone can not create the size inclusivity. Larger bust and stomach, arm and underarm seams fit require darts set in properly to make to look/design to fit larger sizes, as they were intended in the mid range. Designers need to do that work of knowing where those short rows need ti occur. Seeing a designer do this in the testknit process was very educational. I hope not only grading, but actual design detail gets addressed for not only larger sizes but smaller bust as well. We have a gift in being able to knit to fit our bodies, but alot of us need the actual directions given to us.
@@thecornerofcraft I did an online class with Jacki from The Woolly Badger called 'knits that fit your tits'. It was so helpful and very reasonably priced. My problem is having a bigger bust compared to a smaller waist and its so difficult to get a jumper to fit right. I end up knitting boxy styles rather than anything more fitted but this course is helping me get better fits. I think Jacki has other online courses as well. Hope this helps.
Oh I have so many thoughts about this! Thank you for tackling this subject, I love to see people raising it (on some level, especially straight-sized people, b/c I always feel like if I bring it up, people see it as me being "selfish"). One issue I see sometimes with grading up sizes is with colorwork yokes, because when a designer starts from a S/M size, the proportion of the colorwork to the body is very different than in a 2X/3X or up (so 3 repeats of a colorwork pattern takes up more of a small person's chest than a large person's chest). I will say that I've seen one designer who says on their Ravelry page that if the pattern doesn't come in your size, contact them and they will grade the size up for you. Of course if you need that other size you can't just click and buy, but they do offer a relatively decent range of sizes, so it doesn't seem to be just a way to be lazy and not offer the larger (or smaller) sizes at all. But I'd also probably not go to the trouble of asking a designer to do that, so while it seems well-intentioned, I'm not sure if I think it's a solution (I do think it's very sympathetic though and I appreciate the intent).
I am also on the high end of the average range, so if I find designs where I am in the last or second the last of the sizes, those designers can go away. I like that Ravelry has a built in hide designer option, so if they are that chronic of a problem, it is always an option. I know one designer I avoided because she was really bad about not being inclusive has become very popular among some vocal on this topic, and I had a look and she has started making her designs more inclusive. Not sure if the whole back catalog is updated, but the newer ones are. So good on her for doing that.
I've just stumbled upon your channel, and thank goodness I did! I'm a UK 18, and it is murder trying to knit the right size from patterns I like. I'm constantly disappointed. On youtube particularly, I'm constantly directed to blogs and web pages, and then when I do my size is not there at all. It wastes so much of my time. Do I only have to knit ponchos 😂. It can't be hard to put all details on the youtube info. Some do, but they don't go up to my bust size. Crochet isn't so hard, but they still don't bother. Because I'm working in a line. But once something is on my needles I can't measure it for my size. I have done swatches of course, but I tend to knit a correct tension anyway. I would just love to have an easy knitting/crochet ride. I feel the same for any bought patterns too - even worse, as you say they are not cheap!!!!
I have a 49" bust and have found at least a few garment patterns that do not accommodate my size. It's certainly disheartening. I wanted to add one size inclusive designer who hasn't been mentioned yet: Lily Kate France. Her designs are gorgeous, very well-written, and offer some tips on customizing to your body. I knit her Poisoned Apple top, and it fits me perfectly.
You have opened my eyes. I don't/haven't really knit garments for a long time as cost-wise, I just can't afford it for now. But I am a 129cm/50" bust in my fav bra. So while I can techically knit most patterns, I am now going to choose not to unless they are fully size inclusive. I have to go through my library now and see what I have had gifted/purchased that I will make sure to knit BECAUSE they are size inclusive. Thank you for raising awareness :)
Thank you so much for speaking out about this! Your video prompted me to go look at all the garment patterns I have knit to see if they were size inclusive. I can actually see the point a few years ago where I stopped buying patterns that are not size inclusive. I do feel for newer designers who don't have the finances to pay for grading. Maybe we all need to find and support resources to teach folks how to grade and shape patterns to fit more types of bodies.
THANK YOU HANNAH!!!! As a larger woman I so appreciate you voicing the frustration that we go thru when seeing a pattern we would love to make only to find out it doesn't come in my size range 😔. I hope your video is watched by many and are shared with all. Thank you again. I hope you and Mario had a wonderful holiday season. *)
I have not knit a jumper before, just shawls but I think 2023 is the year 😄 I’m slightly large… and I like things baggy, so size inclusive patterns will be what o am looking at for sure ❤
Hey Hannah, Happy new year to you, I have just recently found Becca from the Creabea podcast and she was of the same opinion as you so in her podcasts from last year you can see her journey of creating her own patterns, one started off as an adult sweater and between herself and her pattern grader they were able to downsize it to include childrens sizes as well as adults, so it can be done in either direction I believe.
I am slightly under 30" bust. I often test for some who's XS is a 32" bust, but she gives a range for ease and she makes sure 30" bust does fall in that range. I test for a few other designers that I now fit into the number 2 or xs and their small size is for a 27" bust! Its nice to see the people I test for are taking that into account that size inclusive does not just mean you need to fit larger busts but also smaller busts. I remember a designer said she was regrading her patterns to add a few larger sizes, I requested how about a size that would fit a 30" or smaller bust. She did not add the sizes. Her patterns are free on her blog so I'm not sure how mad I can get and she primarily writes accessory, house items, and children items anyways.
Great video! I only support size inclusive designers :) It really hurts to see a gorgeous pattern only to find you are not included in the sizing. My favourite is Jacqueline Cieslak as she also includes adjustments for bust (the big boob struggle is real!), body/hips and biceps along with being size inclusive. I do really struggle to find patterns for my very slight older teen boys though :( as they don't go to a small enough size. Another bug bear is designers still using S,M, L and XL format for their sizes instead of just the measurements... makes me hopping mad!
New to knitting garments and have purchase only size inclusive patterns, even though I am within the sizing. Hanna Lubben HERBGARDEN knitwear make the best size inclusive patterns with detailed instructions on how to customize them for your body. I'm working on the Ranunculus (Midori Hirose) and will move onto the Reyna sweater next.
Great video and I'm loving all of the discussion in the comments. I've been lucky enough to fall within most sizing but will definitely be looking for inclusive designs in the future. Will also be checking out the designers everyone is suggesting. Thanks all!
Is there really nowhere on the internet keeping tabs on the drama? That’s so surprising! It would definitely be helpful - I lost track of what was going on long ago 🤷🏻♀️ I don’t mean it in a gossipy way, I just mean that I don’t know whose values align with mine anymore, where to spend my money, etc. I’ve barely knitted at all since things started changing/getting confusing, as I don’t feel like the knit world is one where I belong anymore 😢
I am a size XL with a 110 bust and it´s already so frustrating knitting jumpers at my size. It just happened again, I´m knitting a super complicated cable pattern (Arctic Light by Kutovakika) and almost finished one sleeve. But it turns out that the sleeve is so baggy around the pit area and I have so much extra fabric. The body ease is fine but I´m not pleased with it. It doesn´t look classy but sloppy and I put it into hibernation for now (which is a shame because I was so excited for this). I´m thinking of maybe knitting like 7-10cm of seed stitch (which will luckily be easy to implement into the thing) from the cast on stitches under the arm so that the arm hole will be at like 2/3 of the original size. While that is luckily doable in this pattern, you can´t apply that to every design and if I pay for a pattern, I expect the fit to be similar to the smaller sizes (the model pictures´sleeves are more fitted, which makes for a very elegant look). And while I recognize that bodies grow differently in size, designers should at least give pointers throughout the pattern to make adjustments. This happened to me with several garments and I just accepted it but tbh I´m sick of it by now.
My heart hurts because it shouldn’t be this difficult to have patterns in a range of sizes (xxs through 6xl) especially from creators whose primary income comes from selling patterns. My measurements fit US 10/12 almost perfectly. Even shopping for non-handmade clothes can be difficult with my bust. I’m very privileged that most patterns go up to my bust, but few go over it. This has definitely made me reconsider my pattern habits and I’ll be choosing them with a more discerning eye in the future.
A worthy goal ....BUT! What most people refer to as 'size inclusive' is not size inclusive for me. Typically size inclusive as used in the knitting world refers to a range of different 'widths', but it doesn't cover different 'heights'. I am taller than the average UK woman (and also than the average UK man!) and so find standard knitting patterns (and also off the peg clothes) do not fit my height. (And it's not just the arm/body length, the major issue is the depth and shaping between collar and armpit - the raglan/yoke section - I typically have to enter all the pattern numbers into a spreadsheet and re-engineer it, to increase the depth between shoulder and armpit without increasing arm/body circumference, all whilst keeping the 'spirit' of the pattern.) I've never heard this aspect (ie height) of the 'size inclusivity' conversation even mentioned, let alone catered for. So having said all that, I don't make an effort to specifically support 'width-inclusive' designs because I'm not catered for by anybody 😞
that is a 100% legit issue. I'm a short fat person - and most "plus size" patterns are written assuming that all my weight must be in my chest (it's actually in my hips) and that I must have wide shoulders - so almost all sweater patterns also don't fit me. So I also have to do so much fiddling to make patterns fit
I’ve honestly never thought about size inclusive patterns but to be fair I’ve only been knitting for a few years and have only ever made child sized clothing garments. Going forward if I do knit a sweater or clothing for myself I will keep that in mind.
My favorite designer is Joji Locateli. I find her to be very size inclusive. There are more that I like but can't list them all. Yes, size inclusive does matter to me since I am not a small person.
Thank you for bringing this forward in my thoughts. I am privileged to be able to knit any garment without looking. I will do better to make sure all sizes are included when I purchase. My fav inclusive designer is TinCanKnits
Even simple things like arm warmers will only have 1 size and shape. It's simpler math and they can't bother to add a couple of sizes? Ridiculous. Thank you so much for this video. Lots of love from the Pacific Northwest 🧡
Yes!! I love and recommend patterns by TincanKnits, Vanessa Smith, SosuKnits, Pip&Pin, KnitoriousShe (uses a spreadsheet to fill in your meaurements so it fits to your bodytype!), Wool and Pine, Jessie Maed Designs, Knitting Expat Designs, Paola Albergamo and Knitboop
Oooh, the irony 😂 I know you don’t control which ads are shown on your episodes, but this one for me showed some extremely thin female models, without saying what their product was 🤪 Excellent presentation on this subject 🥰
7 місяців тому
In terms of size inclusive designers, my favourites are Jessie Maed Designs and Lydia Morrow I can't say I only knit size-inclusive designs because I also like vintage knitting, and vintage patterns are not inclusive at all. They were only made in one size, at most 2-3 with 2 inches of difference between the sizes. Luckily, there are a lot of good resources about resizing vintage patterns so everyone can make them for themselves. And also there are people like Susan Crawford that resizes some of them and publishes in a lovely series of books. But I'm aware vintage knitting is a niche on itself and current pattern designers should be held to another standard
Thanks for addressing this. Sorry you felt uncomfortable doing so, it ought not to be that way. I would be inclined to give free patterns or maybe the first paid-for pattern or two by someone dipping their toe in the water a bit of a pass re sizing, but not the pro knitwear designers (& if you did go pro, you should re-visit the earlier patterns & update them). It does have to be said that things have improved - I started knitting in the 1980s & I still have (somewhere!) a book of patterns that only had ONE bust size for each sweater featured. IIRC, as I also have the larger bosom (!) I had a choice of approx one sweater in the whole book. (No, I don't know how I bought it in the first place, but it could well have been a gift) As to keeping up with the issues, I do struggle. I often come across people being a bit cryptic, not wanting to name names. It doesn't make it any easier to stay informed, though I totally get why people do it that way.
I really want to try one of those patterns with a spreadsheet that you can put in your own measurements and get the pattern to fit your exact body. I know they exist. I'm sure it's a lot of work to do. Curious if anyone has any experience of this.
Brava!! And yes, I too wish someone kept track of the "drama" (not drama, calling people out for their intentional behavior is not "cancel culture" or drama, it's their decision, their consequences). Bless you. (and I wish you would name them, why let them off?)
It's not so much 'letting them off' as it is protecting my mental health against the fans of this designer who would inevitably come at me to defend them 😅 x
I started designing my own cardigan pattern based on something that I knit for my niece, but when I couldn't get the maths to work for larger sizes, I stopped and haven't looked to release it, purely because I want to be size inclusive. It might just be because I'm new to designing, so far only done hats, but if I ever get back to doing jumpers and cardigans I will only release a fully size inclusive pattern from 28" to 60"
Heya Hannah! Good to see you covering this topic. Regarding standard sizing I think a lot of designers base it off the Craft Yarn Council measurements which starts at 28" chest for women. Aside from size-inclusivity we also need to talk about shape inclusivity - I'm fat and short so my individual measurements can fall across a range of sizes which makes for a weird fit. Which is probably why I am drawn towards made-to-measure/recipe type patterns. Do look up designers like Jen Parroccini and Victoria Marchant who advocate for better size inclusivity
I’d like to see more patterns where you can mix and match ex upper bust measurement, full bust and bicep with instructions on how to calculate where increases are to be spread over
Perfectly Knotted has quite a few customizable patterns! She also gives all the tips on how to make the garments fit your body perfectly! And if you have questions she is super responsive!
I never really considered the topic because I only use free patterns since I find that buying patterns is sort of a luxury to me, a small one yeah, but one I can live without! Having that in mind, if I spent precious money on a pattern and it turned to simply not work in my size I would be so very upset. Besides that, it just seems so silly to not be size inclusive from a business point of view. If the median size is bigger than many pattern makers want to admit it looks like they're missing on half their potential clients just because they're stuck in the idea people should be a certain size to participate in fashion. Edit: I probably sound way too stingy but I'm from a country with a very weak currency, pattern making isn't as common here as it is in countries like the US and UK, buying a US or UK pattern would translate into way more money than its warranted for a pattern, sometimes three times or more, because of currency issues
I cannot understand, with my values, that "i don't want plus sized people wearing my designs" is an actual opinion. I have no words. I've incidentally knitted only inclusive patterns, but I've definitely, in the past, supported designers and dyers who didn't hold my values. With better knowledge comes better decisions. Nowadays I carefully curate not only my design and yarn choices, but also my social media feeds. I might not be purchasing someone's products, but following and liking their posts is also something I can control.
I honestly think there is no excuse for designers that do it as their full time job. If you make a living off of selling patterns you can do the calculations. I’ve seen a few, usually smaller designers, state that they have trouble getting testknitters for larger sizes and they don’t feel comfortable selling a non tested pattern, so if you’re out of the size range they had tested you can contact them and they will send it to you for free. I think that’s a very fair solution.
I 100% agree and I think everyone should be able to knit what they like. That said I'm not here to cancel people but I'd like to put my money and energy to people who are inclusive!
I'm in the same boat as you. When I find that my 42" bust self is the largest or next to largest size in a pattern it's very frustrating. I'm average in the US. I already have to adjust my knits because my chest is very large in proportion to the rest of me, it's a pain. There are so many people larger than me (and there's nothing wrong with that!) who would not be able to knit the thing, and they shouldn't have to do math on an already paid for pattern to make it go up in size for them.
Enjoyed your podcast and not making it personal. I am relatively small busted and have a unusual torso short in the shoulder to the under arm/upper bust but proportionally longer in my torso for my height and then my waist/hips are pretty similar measurement to my bust. I started sewing and knitting my own clothes due to not finding things that fitted me well. I have to play around with things. Often I will knit one size for the bust and one for upper length and then add length in the bottom half of my sweater. It does get frustrating at times. I have worked out that certain styles suit me better than others. I.e Raglan is best for me. Anything that is v neck or loose circular neck is never going to work for me i.e a couple of designs which are always in the hot right now on Ravelry. I test knit for a few local small designers and they often struggle to get testers for their larger sizes.
The struggle to get testers for all sizes is a real problem. I've seen some people publish the patterns, stating which sizes are untested and if you'd like to knit that size, contact them and you'll get the pattern for free. x
I love this discussion! Im a natural dyer and am wanting to design a pattern with my 50 pounds of local yarn. Im really a small human, so I have the privilege of being able to fit into many patterns even if they are too big. Petite or plus sized clothing is expected with popular designers and brands because they have the funds. But like you asked, "whats inclusive?." Popular designers have money and folks clamoring to test knit for them. I don't. One day I would love to design a sweater, but also know that I probably don't have the funds to pay a tech editor unless it's under $200 or barter. Having a large range of sizes could increase the ability for more folks to purchase and pay for the tech grading of additional sizes. But there's still the chance that you may only sell 10 of those patterns as the goal shouldn't only be to make money, but to share art. I don't plan on breaking even with my hours plus the editing and photography fees. Id love to find out how much is the average cost that a designer spends to publish a pattern. Even the most popular designers have patterns that only a handful of folks buy. Do they not care and are pushing out enough patterns that one of them will eventually go viral and make up for cost spent on unpopular patterns? Like a few others said, we have to give equitable access to designer tools so that those who are smaller or emerging designers can feel supported to include pattern modifications/inclusive sizing. Education is key. Not supporting those who don't have the skills/finances could possibly stop folks from interacting with folks who need the most support and encouragement. Id hate to overlook a marginalized designer because they don't have large range of sizes. I recently saw a designer that is publishing her pattern with the yarn kit. The amount of yarn included in the kit is enough to make the smallest and largest sized pattern at one flat rate. I thought that this was such a great idea since those who knit bigger sizes need more yarn and spend more. I will personally not buy this kit as Im the smallest size and don't want to spend the money on extra yarn. Id end up spending $175 instead of the $75 that's needed to complete my size. The reminder that not everyone has this ability to pay less was well done in listing the kit. A wonderful form of education without shame. It worked because Im mentioning it now:)
I try to pay more attention but I admit that I sometimes forget because I don’t need to, not because I don’t want to. How do you stand about designers that now publish size inclusive patterns but may have not updated their back catalogue?
That's a tricky one. I still buy the size-inclusive pattern, even if some of their previous patterns don't fit the bill. Hopefully that'll show them to add some sizes, but who knows? x
When talking smaller sizes, I measured my son’s chest out of interest while watching the video. He’s 8 and a 26 inch chest. (I’d knit 27/28in just to make sure I’m in the right size). So far as the smaller sizes, would we be in the realm of kids sizes? (This isn’t meant to be that if you’re smaller you should stick to kids patterns it was just a thought as we sat here.
I mentioned that while filming then cut it out. Because people with these smaller chest sizes shouldn't have to knit children's sizes or patterns for children. Not sure what the solution is tbh x
That is interesting, but I think that while some people are smaller, in those double and triple XSmalls, there sizing is still not like that of a child. They are skinny/slender, but still fit adult sizes in areas like arm length, torso length, shoulders, neck and so on. It is still different type of sizing. But if someone is a slender person, and a shortie, like me :), maybe kids patterns are an option they can look into. But a designer who is interested in including even smaller sizes, understanding those kids sizes could be a good place to start to learn the sizing. Maybe?
I honestly hadn’t thought about it until you’ve brought it up because I’m what would be deemed a normal size (with a little bit of curves but not a lot). I will though be looking out for this sort of stuff in the future. It does rather annoy me when you do see designs on tiny models and then you go oooh that would be great to knit and then you realise it doesn’t actually look good cos you have a thing called boobs and hips! Thanks for raising this issue though…it does need to be made more prominent!
Skeindeer has an excellent video on this from a designer perspective. m.ua-cam.com/video/R_MssyCeims/v-deo.html One point she makes is that when designers say it’s hard to scale up from an xs say to 5xl, why not design for the size in the middle and scale each way?💡
One of my biggest pet peeves is plus size designers that only sell XS-L sizes. Like it's one thing (still very bad) if you fit that range and you just don't think about bigger people. But when you're a 2x or 3x and you knit/crochet your designs in your own size, but don't sell patterns with those sizes it feels intentionally cruel. Or at least hypocritical. I also prefer patterns that go more by measurements than sizes because there's always a discrepancy in sizing and who fits what. Give me exact measurements and I can make it work for me if I need, if it's a free pattern. But I'm not paying for a pattern that doesn't work for me.
The person who designs the Spot sweater is a huge designer who refuses to expand their sizing even for plain round yoke designs which they already design very big because they like lots of positive ease, so why not go all the way? Because "not every design looks good in bigger sizes". It's textbook deliberate fatphobia which is really sad.
I have a 44" bust, which is bang-on average for the American woman, and yet I am consistently in the XL range. A few years ago now, I stopped buying patterns that don't cater to at least a 62" bust, and I think the recent Craft Yarn Council guidance may have actually increased the standard range a few inches. It can be so tricky to tell when a designer only provides finished bust measurements but doesn't say what the intended ease should be - and honestly, that's also just terrible designing. It doesn't make it clear to anyone what size they should make at that point.
Adding another comment because it occurs to me that I wouldn't mind if designers did something similar to what sewing patterns do where you pay separately for different size ranges. So if I want to knit the same sweater for me (60" bust) and for my friend (38" bust) I'd pay for it twice. This might help offset some of the extra labor that goes into sizing up the patterns. Another thing I'd love to see would be plus size only patterns. There are SO MANY we can't access, and if you know have the energy to grade to a certain number of sizes, maybe some of the time pick the bigger ones instead of smaller to even things out. Obviously long term I'd love all patterns to fit all people, but I think it could be a really interesting political statement to have a few designers specifically cater to us big folks. (If I ever design this is likely what I'll do.)
You know what else is nice? When they pick a test knitter at the upper range so we can see what it actually looks like in those sizes. Perhaps that’s not available to all designers, but it’s so nice. I know that some of us in the upper size ranges feel like, since we’re often lucky to find ones I like that will fit us in the first place, we should just be grateful for that and not hope for more. Which is an entirely separate discussion. But when I see test knits that look like they’d fit me, that’s often the deciding factor in whether or not to get a pattern I might have been on the fence about. Thank you so much for another amazing video, always a bright spot in my week!
I remember almost crying when I received The Shetland Trader, Book Three: Heritage by Gudrun Johnston.
I was so in love with all the patterns and I could actually knit ALL of them in my size. It felt unreal to me. All these gorgeous patterns and I could just make them for myself? I adore this book! It's so beautiful, so well made, so detailed... I can't wait to make the Vair jumper, once I can finally make up my mind on the colours :)
Oh how amazing!! I'll be sure to look into that book x
Vanessa Smith is a delightful designer who is going back through her catalog to ensure that every pattern is size inclusive. I was lucky enough to test knit her Nydia sweater and it is one of my absolute favorites, plus she was a delight to work with.
I'm at the high end of plus size and even for accessories I've started checking the designer's garment patterns for inclusivity before paying for an accessory pattern because I just don't need to support designers who don't support me. Life is too short for that nonsense.
So happy to see someone else talking about this. Making a garment already requires a lot of time, materials and money. Making a plus size garment requires a bit more of all those things. I shouldn't have to look at a pattern and do a ridiculous amount of math and wishful thinking on top of all that.
I do have a challenge for anyone that doesn't think this is an actual issue. Type fat crochet into any search engine.... now tell me why it's all patterns for how to make a fat stuffed cat and none on how to make plus size clothing 🙃
I think there’s always an element of customisation to any handmade garment, for me its the joy of hand making. I have long arms as i am tall so i can just knit longer arms. But there is something quite joyful in reading “if you need to knit a longer size, add bonus rows in place x or y”. I’m not expecting a pattern designer to have made a pattern that fits “out the box” as it were for every shape, but a good indication if where you might want to make your edits is a great way to make something size inclusive in more ways than chest fit!
For me… I’d expect a paid for pattern to be size inclusive. But a free pattern I see a lot of one size and make your own edits (and to be fair, you havent paid for it). I know if I made a jumper pattern for myself and wanted to share, I’m not in a place to be grading or paying people to help me so I’d likely release it with the caveat of “it fits me only, go wild with your edits”.
Thanks so much for this video! I love Tin Can Knits, Skeinanigans, Tellybeanknits, Aroha Knits, and Marcela Chang Knits just to name a few of the size inclusive designers I can think of. This has been a good healthy conversation that the knitting community is still having and it is important for us to vote with our wallets for the things we want to see. Interestingly, this same problem exists in sewing patterns. The big fashion house pattern designers have a very small size range that is based on an average B cup measurement. As someone who is an F cup, I have always had to do large bust adjustments until more recently when indie pattern designers have started having these built in. For sewing I absolutely recommend Cashmerette as they have tons of beautiful sewing designs, tips on sizing, and they modify for some other larger body differences such as different back neck sloping, hips, etc. I know you didn't ask for sewing, but in case someone dabbles in the dark side as I do. lol
as someone who is plus size I no longer accept or buy patterns that don't fit me - that I have to try to make fit. I am not a clothes designer and resent the anxiety spent on trying to make something made with expensive wool fit me..... I very much want nice patterns in my size and don't see why I can't have it as I am not the biggest person in the world - nor do I eat like a glutton
OMG Hannah - THANK YOU SO MUCH - I have just followed some of the links on the post - WOW - so amazing - I could cry at all these options
Thank your for talking about. I´ve just updated my Ravelry Favourites and deleted all the Designs and Designers wich are not size inclusive.
As someone who's a size 22ish & also a knitwear designer, I can see both sides of this issue. Most designers don't sell enough patterns to make a living. Grading sweaters to a large range of sizes costs money in designer time & tech editing & many designers don't ever make enough money to cover those costs. Which is why I rarely self-publish sweater patterns. I am aiming to change that this year though. As for magazines, personally I will limit the number of sizes I include according to how much I'm paid. If a magazine pay me more I'll include more sizes. I do agree that for designers with tens or hundreds of thousands of followers there's no excuse as they presumably make more money. But most designers don't make a living as it is.
Thank you so much for making this post. Nothing is as demoralizing as seeing a sweater I think I would love to make to only then check and see that I would have to spend many extra hours to figure out how to size it up for myself
Thank you for talking about this, it's so frustrating to hear knitters that I've been following for years be so nonchalant about it and say things like "oh well my life is stressful and I will find stress relief in whatever pattern I want to wear" and it's like wow you came so close to understanding why it's important for everyone to be able to enjoy doing the same.
Everybody and every BODY should be included as much as feasible, especially when designers are big and can afford it.
I really like how you approached a subject that many find controversial. You are amazing!
This is brilliant. Thank you for having this conversation ❤
I'm so sorry I haven't seen this until now, but THANK YOU so much for sharing my videos!!! I'm so happy you're having a chat about the importance of size-inclusivity ❤
Oh you're so welcome. Thank YOU for your amazing work on this platform and beyond xx
Thank you for making this video!!!!
An important thing to remember is that math alone can not create the size inclusivity. Larger bust and stomach, arm and underarm seams fit require darts set in properly to make to look/design to fit larger sizes, as they were intended in the mid range. Designers need to do that work of knowing where those short rows need ti occur. Seeing a designer do this in the testknit process was very educational. I hope not only grading, but actual design detail gets addressed for not only larger sizes but smaller bust as well. We have a gift in being able to knit to fit our bodies, but alot of us need the actual directions given to us.
Oh 100%! I'd have no idea how to knit for my body. Maybe I need to look into a class for that x
@@thecornerofcraft If you find a resource, please do share your findings!
@@thecornerofcraft I did an online class with Jacki from The Woolly Badger called 'knits that fit your tits'. It was so helpful and very reasonably priced. My problem is having a bigger bust compared to a smaller waist and its so difficult to get a jumper to fit right. I end up knitting boxy styles rather than anything more fitted but this course is helping me get better fits. I think Jacki has other online courses as well. Hope this helps.
Oh I have so many thoughts about this! Thank you for tackling this subject, I love to see people raising it (on some level, especially straight-sized people, b/c I always feel like if I bring it up, people see it as me being "selfish"). One issue I see sometimes with grading up sizes is with colorwork yokes, because when a designer starts from a S/M size, the proportion of the colorwork to the body is very different than in a 2X/3X or up (so 3 repeats of a colorwork pattern takes up more of a small person's chest than a large person's chest). I will say that I've seen one designer who says on their Ravelry page that if the pattern doesn't come in your size, contact them and they will grade the size up for you. Of course if you need that other size you can't just click and buy, but they do offer a relatively decent range of sizes, so it doesn't seem to be just a way to be lazy and not offer the larger (or smaller) sizes at all. But I'd also probably not go to the trouble of asking a designer to do that, so while it seems well-intentioned, I'm not sure if I think it's a solution (I do think it's very sympathetic though and I appreciate the intent).
I am also on the high end of the average range, so if I find designs where I am in the last or second the last of the sizes, those designers can go away. I like that Ravelry has a built in hide designer option, so if they are that chronic of a problem, it is always an option. I know one designer I avoided because she was really bad about not being inclusive has become very popular among some vocal on this topic, and I had a look and she has started making her designs more inclusive. Not sure if the whole back catalog is updated, but the newer ones are. So good on her for doing that.
I've just stumbled upon your channel, and thank goodness I did! I'm a UK 18, and it is murder trying to knit the right size from patterns I like. I'm constantly disappointed. On youtube particularly, I'm constantly directed to blogs and web pages, and then when I do my size is not there at all. It wastes so much of my time. Do I only have to knit ponchos 😂. It can't be hard to put all details on the youtube info. Some do, but they don't go up to my bust size. Crochet isn't so hard, but they still don't bother. Because I'm working in a line. But once something is on my needles I can't measure it for my size. I have done swatches of course, but I tend to knit a correct tension anyway. I would just love to have an easy knitting/crochet ride. I feel the same for any bought patterns too - even worse, as you say they are not cheap!!!!
I have a 49" bust and have found at least a few garment patterns that do not accommodate my size. It's certainly disheartening. I wanted to add one size inclusive designer who hasn't been mentioned yet: Lily Kate France. Her designs are gorgeous, very well-written, and offer some tips on customizing to your body. I knit her Poisoned Apple top, and it fits me perfectly.
You have opened my eyes.
I don't/haven't really knit garments for a long time as cost-wise, I just can't afford it for now. But I am a 129cm/50" bust in my fav bra. So while I can techically knit most patterns, I am now going to choose not to unless they are fully size inclusive.
I have to go through my library now and see what I have had gifted/purchased that I will make sure to knit BECAUSE they are size inclusive.
Thank you for raising awareness :)
You are so right. Thank you for this video.
Thank you! I always appreciate your take, and your videos.
I'm so glad you enjoy them xx
Thank you so much for speaking out about this! Your video prompted me to go look at all the garment patterns I have knit to see if they were size inclusive. I can actually see the point a few years ago where I stopped buying patterns that are not size inclusive. I do feel for newer designers who don't have the finances to pay for grading. Maybe we all need to find and support resources to teach folks how to grade and shape patterns to fit more types of bodies.
THANK YOU HANNAH!!!! As a larger woman I so appreciate you voicing the frustration that we go thru when seeing a pattern we would love to make only to find out it doesn't come in my size range 😔. I hope your video is watched by many and are shared with all. Thank you again. I hope you and Mario had a wonderful holiday season. *)
I love this! My mom was able to do this like it was the easiest thing in the world but the struggle is real for most people.
I have not knit a jumper before, just shawls but I think 2023 is the year 😄 I’m slightly large… and I like things baggy, so size inclusive patterns will be what o am looking at for sure ❤
Hey Hannah, Happy new year to you, I have just recently found Becca from the Creabea podcast and she was of the same opinion as you so in her podcasts from last year you can see her journey of creating her own patterns, one started off as an adult sweater and between herself and her pattern grader they were able to downsize it to include childrens sizes as well as adults, so it can be done in either direction I believe.
I am slightly under 30" bust. I often test for some who's XS is a 32" bust, but she gives a range for ease and she makes sure 30" bust does fall in that range. I test for a few other designers that I now fit into the number 2 or xs and their small size is for a 27" bust! Its nice to see the people I test for are taking that into account that size inclusive does not just mean you need to fit larger busts but also smaller busts. I remember a designer said she was regrading her patterns to add a few larger sizes, I requested how about a size that would fit a 30" or smaller bust. She did not add the sizes. Her patterns are free on her blog so I'm not sure how mad I can get and she primarily writes accessory, house items, and children items anyways.
Great video! I only support size inclusive designers :) It really hurts to see a gorgeous pattern only to find you are not included in the sizing. My favourite is Jacqueline Cieslak as she also includes adjustments for bust (the big boob struggle is real!), body/hips and biceps along with being size inclusive. I do really struggle to find patterns for my very slight older teen boys though :( as they don't go to a small enough size. Another bug bear is designers still using S,M, L and XL format for their sizes instead of just the measurements... makes me hopping mad!
New to knitting garments and have purchase only size inclusive patterns, even though I am within the sizing. Hanna Lubben HERBGARDEN knitwear make the best size inclusive patterns with detailed instructions on how to customize them for your body. I'm working on the Ranunculus (Midori Hirose) and will move onto the Reyna sweater next.
Loved this video! 💞💞💞
Great video and I'm loving all of the discussion in the comments. I've been lucky enough to fall within most sizing but will definitely be looking for inclusive designs in the future. Will also be checking out the designers everyone is suggesting. Thanks all!
Is there really nowhere on the internet keeping tabs on the drama? That’s so surprising! It would definitely be helpful - I lost track of what was going on long ago 🤷🏻♀️ I don’t mean it in a gossipy way, I just mean that I don’t know whose values align with mine anymore, where to spend my money, etc. I’ve barely knitted at all since things started changing/getting confusing, as I don’t feel like the knit world is one where I belong anymore 😢
I am a size XL with a 110 bust and it´s already so frustrating knitting jumpers at my size.
It just happened again, I´m knitting a super complicated cable pattern (Arctic Light by Kutovakika) and almost finished one sleeve. But it turns out that the sleeve is so baggy around the pit area and I have so much extra fabric. The body ease is fine but I´m not pleased with it. It doesn´t look classy but sloppy and I put it into hibernation for now (which is a shame because I was so excited for this).
I´m thinking of maybe knitting like 7-10cm of seed stitch (which will luckily be easy to implement into the thing) from the cast on stitches under the arm so that the arm hole will be at like 2/3 of the original size.
While that is luckily doable in this pattern, you can´t apply that to every design and if I pay for a pattern, I expect the fit to be similar to the smaller sizes (the model pictures´sleeves are more fitted, which makes for a very elegant look). And while I recognize that bodies grow differently in size, designers should at least give pointers throughout the pattern to make adjustments.
This happened to me with several garments and I just accepted it but tbh I´m sick of it by now.
Hi Very interesting and tru what you talk about 😁 Yes, is it different in small, medium, and bygger size, gives different pattens and colorwork 😁
My heart hurts because it shouldn’t be this difficult to have patterns in a range of sizes (xxs through 6xl) especially from creators whose primary income comes from selling patterns.
My measurements fit US 10/12 almost perfectly. Even shopping for non-handmade clothes can be difficult with my bust. I’m very privileged that most patterns go up to my bust, but few go over it. This has definitely made me reconsider my pattern habits and I’ll be choosing them with a more discerning eye in the future.
A worthy goal ....BUT! What most people refer to as 'size inclusive' is not size inclusive for me. Typically size inclusive as used in the knitting world refers to a range of different 'widths', but it doesn't cover different 'heights'. I am taller than the average UK woman (and also than the average UK man!) and so find standard knitting patterns (and also off the peg clothes) do not fit my height. (And it's not just the arm/body length, the major issue is the depth and shaping between collar and armpit - the raglan/yoke section - I typically have to enter all the pattern numbers into a spreadsheet and re-engineer it, to increase the depth between shoulder and armpit without increasing arm/body circumference, all whilst keeping the 'spirit' of the pattern.) I've never heard this aspect (ie height) of the 'size inclusivity' conversation even mentioned, let alone catered for. So having said all that, I don't make an effort to specifically support 'width-inclusive' designs because I'm not catered for by anybody 😞
that is a 100% legit issue. I'm a short fat person - and most "plus size" patterns are written assuming that all my weight must be in my chest (it's actually in my hips) and that I must have wide shoulders - so almost all sweater patterns also don't fit me. So I also have to do so much fiddling to make patterns fit
@@Checheyigen1 Grrrrr- it's all such a nuisance! Though I guess it's forced me to up my skills compared to a lot of folx
That's a really interesting perspective that I hadn't considered before. Thank you for bringing that to my attention! x
I’ve honestly never thought about size inclusive patterns but to be fair I’ve only been knitting for a few years and have only ever made child sized clothing garments. Going forward if I do knit a sweater or clothing for myself I will keep that in mind.
It's something very easy to overlook if you're in the middle of the size-inclusive range! I didn't look for a long time x
My favorite designer is Joji Locateli. I find her to be very size inclusive. There are more that I like but can't list them all. Yes, size inclusive does matter to me since I am not a small person.
Thank you for bringing this forward in my thoughts. I am privileged to be able to knit any garment without looking. I will do better to make sure all sizes are included when I purchase. My fav inclusive designer is TinCanKnits
Even simple things like arm warmers will only have 1 size and shape. It's simpler math and they can't bother to add a couple of sizes? Ridiculous. Thank you so much for this video. Lots of love from the Pacific Northwest 🧡
That's so true! x
Yes!! I love and recommend patterns by TincanKnits, Vanessa Smith, SosuKnits, Pip&Pin, KnitoriousShe (uses a spreadsheet to fill in your meaurements so it fits to your bodytype!), Wool and Pine, Jessie Maed Designs, Knitting Expat Designs, Paola Albergamo and Knitboop
Thank you. I am plus size and love to knit.
Oooh, the irony 😂 I know you don’t control which ads are shown on your episodes, but this one for me showed some extremely thin female models, without saying what their product was 🤪 Excellent presentation on this subject 🥰
In terms of size inclusive designers, my favourites are Jessie Maed Designs and Lydia Morrow
I can't say I only knit size-inclusive designs because I also like vintage knitting, and vintage patterns are not inclusive at all. They were only made in one size, at most 2-3 with 2 inches of difference between the sizes. Luckily, there are a lot of good resources about resizing vintage patterns so everyone can make them for themselves. And also there are people like Susan Crawford that resizes some of them and publishes in a lovely series of books.
But I'm aware vintage knitting is a niche on itself and current pattern designers should be held to another standard
Thanks for addressing this. Sorry you felt uncomfortable doing so, it ought not to be that way.
I would be inclined to give free patterns or maybe the first paid-for pattern or two by someone dipping their toe in the water a bit of a pass re sizing, but not the pro knitwear designers (& if you did go pro, you should re-visit the earlier patterns & update them).
It does have to be said that things have improved - I started knitting in the 1980s & I still have (somewhere!) a book of patterns that only had ONE bust size for each sweater featured. IIRC, as I also have the larger bosom (!) I had a choice of approx one sweater in the whole book. (No, I don't know how I bought it in the first place, but it could well have been a gift)
As to keeping up with the issues, I do struggle. I often come across people being a bit cryptic, not wanting to name names. It doesn't make it any easier to stay informed, though I totally get why people do it that way.
I really want to try one of those patterns with a spreadsheet that you can put in your own measurements and get the pattern to fit your exact body. I know they exist. I'm sure it's a lot of work to do. Curious if anyone has any experience of this.
Brava!! And yes, I too wish someone kept track of the "drama" (not drama, calling people out for their intentional behavior is not "cancel culture" or drama, it's their decision, their consequences). Bless you. (and I wish you would name them, why let them off?)
It's not so much 'letting them off' as it is protecting my mental health against the fans of this designer who would inevitably come at me to defend them 😅 x
I started designing my own cardigan pattern based on something that I knit for my niece, but when I couldn't get the maths to work for larger sizes, I stopped and haven't looked to release it, purely because I want to be size inclusive. It might just be because I'm new to designing, so far only done hats, but if I ever get back to doing jumpers and cardigans I will only release a fully size inclusive pattern from 28" to 60"
Heya Hannah! Good to see you covering this topic. Regarding standard sizing I think a lot of designers base it off the Craft Yarn Council measurements which starts at 28" chest for women.
Aside from size-inclusivity we also need to talk about shape inclusivity - I'm fat and short so my individual measurements can fall across a range of sizes which makes for a weird fit. Which is probably why I am drawn towards made-to-measure/recipe type patterns.
Do look up designers like Jen Parroccini and Victoria Marchant who advocate for better size inclusivity
Oh I do agree. I'm not sure the best way to approach different shapes but I'd be curious to hear from a designer doing it successfully x
I’d like to see more patterns where you can mix and match ex upper bust measurement, full bust and bicep with instructions on how to calculate where increases are to be spread over
Perfectly Knotted has quite a few customizable patterns! She also gives all the tips on how to make the garments fit your body perfectly! And if you have questions she is super responsive!
I never really considered the topic because I only use free patterns since I find that buying patterns is sort of a luxury to me, a small one yeah, but one I can live without! Having that in mind, if I spent precious money on a pattern and it turned to simply not work in my size I would be so very upset.
Besides that, it just seems so silly to not be size inclusive from a business point of view. If the median size is bigger than many pattern makers want to admit it looks like they're missing on half their potential clients just because they're stuck in the idea people should be a certain size to participate in fashion.
Edit: I probably sound way too stingy but I'm from a country with a very weak currency, pattern making isn't as common here as it is in countries like the US and UK, buying a US or UK pattern would translate into way more money than its warranted for a pattern, sometimes three times or more, because of currency issues
I cannot understand, with my values, that "i don't want plus sized people wearing my designs" is an actual opinion. I have no words.
I've incidentally knitted only inclusive patterns, but I've definitely, in the past, supported designers and dyers who didn't hold my values. With better knowledge comes better decisions. Nowadays I carefully curate not only my design and yarn choices, but also my social media feeds. I might not be purchasing someone's products, but following and liking their posts is also something I can control.
I love this chat
I honestly think there is no excuse for designers that do it as their full time job. If you make a living off of selling patterns you can do the calculations.
I’ve seen a few, usually smaller designers, state that they have trouble getting testknitters for larger sizes and they don’t feel comfortable selling a non tested pattern, so if you’re out of the size range they had tested you can contact them and they will send it to you for free. I think that’s a very fair solution.
I agree on that solution. It's not always possible to find people to test all the sizes! x
I 100% agree and I think everyone should be able to knit what they like. That said I'm not here to cancel people but I'd like to put my money and energy to people who are inclusive!
I'm in the same boat as you. When I find that my 42" bust self is the largest or next to largest size in a pattern it's very frustrating. I'm average in the US. I already have to adjust my knits because my chest is very large in proportion to the rest of me, it's a pain. There are so many people larger than me (and there's nothing wrong with that!) who would not be able to knit the thing, and they shouldn't have to do math on an already paid for pattern to make it go up in size for them.
Enjoyed your podcast and not making it personal. I am relatively small busted and have a unusual torso short in the shoulder to the under arm/upper bust but proportionally longer in my torso for my height and then my waist/hips are pretty similar measurement to my bust. I started sewing and knitting my own clothes due to not finding things that fitted me well. I have to play around with things. Often I will knit one size for the bust and one for upper length and then add length in the bottom half of my sweater. It does get frustrating at times. I have worked out that certain styles suit me better than others. I.e Raglan is best for me. Anything that is v neck or loose circular neck is never going to work for me i.e a couple of designs which are always in the hot right now on Ravelry. I test knit for a few local small designers and they often struggle to get testers for their larger sizes.
The struggle to get testers for all sizes is a real problem. I've seen some people publish the patterns, stating which sizes are untested and if you'd like to knit that size, contact them and you'll get the pattern for free. x
I love this discussion! Im a natural dyer and am wanting to design a pattern with my 50 pounds of local yarn.
Im really a small human, so I have the privilege of being able to fit into many patterns even if they are too big. Petite or plus sized clothing is expected with popular designers and brands because they have the funds. But like you asked, "whats inclusive?." Popular designers have money and folks clamoring to test knit for them. I don't.
One day I would love to design a sweater, but also know that I probably don't have the funds to pay a tech editor unless it's under $200 or barter. Having a large range of sizes could increase the ability for more folks to purchase and pay for the tech grading of additional sizes. But there's still the chance that you may only sell 10 of those patterns as the goal shouldn't only be to make money, but to share art. I don't plan on breaking even with my hours plus the editing and photography fees. Id love to find out how much is the average cost that a designer spends to publish a pattern. Even the most popular designers have patterns that only a handful of folks buy. Do they not care and are pushing out enough patterns that one of them will eventually go viral and make up for cost spent on unpopular patterns? Like a few others said, we have to give equitable access to designer tools so that those who are smaller or emerging designers can feel supported to include pattern modifications/inclusive sizing. Education is key. Not supporting those who don't have the skills/finances could possibly stop folks from interacting with folks who need the most support and encouragement. Id hate to overlook a marginalized designer because they don't have large range of sizes.
I recently saw a designer that is publishing her pattern with the yarn kit. The amount of yarn included in the kit is enough to make the smallest and largest sized pattern at one flat rate. I thought that this was such a great idea since those who knit bigger sizes need more yarn and spend more. I will personally not buy this kit as Im the smallest size and don't want to spend the money on extra yarn. Id end up spending $175 instead of the $75 that's needed to complete my size. The reminder that not everyone has this ability to pay less was well done in listing the kit. A wonderful form of education without shame. It worked because Im mentioning it now:)
I try to pay more attention but I admit that I sometimes forget because I don’t need to, not because I don’t want to. How do you stand about designers that now publish size inclusive patterns but may have not updated their back catalogue?
That's a tricky one. I still buy the size-inclusive pattern, even if some of their previous patterns don't fit the bill. Hopefully that'll show them to add some sizes, but who knows? x
I’m one of those smaller than ‘average 30’ and frankly I’ve given up trying to find fitted patterns. Most often opt for loose/oversized
ugh. Also not ok. Everyone needs to be represented.
When talking smaller sizes, I measured my son’s chest out of interest while watching the video. He’s 8 and a 26 inch chest. (I’d knit 27/28in just to make sure I’m in the right size). So far as the smaller sizes, would we be in the realm of kids sizes? (This isn’t meant to be that if you’re smaller you should stick to kids patterns it was just a thought as we sat here.
I mentioned that while filming then cut it out. Because people with these smaller chest sizes shouldn't have to knit children's sizes or patterns for children. Not sure what the solution is tbh x
That is interesting, but I think that while some people are smaller, in those double and triple XSmalls, there sizing is still not like that of a child. They are skinny/slender, but still fit adult sizes in areas like arm length, torso length, shoulders, neck and so on. It is still different type of sizing. But if someone is a slender person, and a shortie, like me :), maybe kids patterns are an option they can look into. But a designer who is interested in including even smaller sizes, understanding those kids sizes could be a good place to start to learn the sizing. Maybe?
I agree 100%
Im plus size. If it doesn't at least go to a 5x i won't buy the pattern.
I honestly hadn’t thought about it until you’ve brought it up because I’m what would be deemed a normal size (with a little bit of curves but not a lot). I will though be looking out for this sort of stuff in the future. It does rather annoy me when you do see designs on tiny models and then you go oooh that would be great to knit and then you realise it doesn’t actually look good cos you have a thing called boobs and hips! Thanks for raising this issue though…it does need to be made more prominent!
Skeindeer has an excellent video on this from a designer perspective. m.ua-cam.com/video/R_MssyCeims/v-deo.html One point she makes is that when designers say it’s hard to scale up from an xs say to 5xl, why not design for the size in the middle and scale each way?💡
To my shame I have yet to knit a jumper >_>
Other designers I don't think I saw here are Aimee Sher and JP Knits Things
One of my biggest pet peeves is plus size designers that only sell XS-L sizes. Like it's one thing (still very bad) if you fit that range and you just don't think about bigger people. But when you're a 2x or 3x and you knit/crochet your designs in your own size, but don't sell patterns with those sizes it feels intentionally cruel. Or at least hypocritical. I also prefer patterns that go more by measurements than sizes because there's always a discrepancy in sizing and who fits what. Give me exact measurements and I can make it work for me if I need, if it's a free pattern. But I'm not paying for a pattern that doesn't work for me.
Well that's just a ridiculous thing for them to do!! x
The person who designs the Spot sweater is a huge designer who refuses to expand their sizing even for plain round yoke designs which they already design very big because they like lots of positive ease, so why not go all the way? Because "not every design looks good in bigger sizes". It's textbook deliberate fatphobia which is really sad.
That's actually the designer I was talking about in this video. I love her designs but her lack of sizes really annoys me x
I have a 44" bust, which is bang-on average for the American woman, and yet I am consistently in the XL range. A few years ago now, I stopped buying patterns that don't cater to at least a 62" bust, and I think the recent Craft Yarn Council guidance may have actually increased the standard range a few inches. It can be so tricky to tell when a designer only provides finished bust measurements but doesn't say what the intended ease should be - and honestly, that's also just terrible designing. It doesn't make it clear to anyone what size they should make at that point.
💜☮️🙏🏼✨🧶
Adding another comment because it occurs to me that I wouldn't mind if designers did something similar to what sewing patterns do where you pay separately for different size ranges. So if I want to knit the same sweater for me (60" bust) and for my friend (38" bust) I'd pay for it twice. This might help offset some of the extra labor that goes into sizing up the patterns. Another thing I'd love to see would be plus size only patterns. There are SO MANY we can't access, and if you know have the energy to grade to a certain number of sizes, maybe some of the time pick the bigger ones instead of smaller to even things out. Obviously long term I'd love all patterns to fit all people, but I think it could be a really interesting political statement to have a few designers specifically cater to us big folks. (If I ever design this is likely what I'll do.)
Just remember you're not a victim... Get it together🤦🏽♀️🤦🏽♀️🤦🏽♀️
How do you know who is a victim or not?